Planning 3 weeks in Sulawesi

My kids are dreaming of discovering Indonesia this summer—they’ll be celebrating their 15th and 20th birthdays! For the occasion, I was thinking of Sulawesi, a bit farther from Bali’s crowds.

I usually plan my trips myself, but I’ll admit I’m a little lost when it comes to transportation and logistics. We’d be there for about 18 days.

I’ve looked into guided tours, but the prices are pretty high. North or south for 3 weeks? Anyone have any firsthand experience to share?

Hi, I’d recommend starting with the Toraja region first. The easiest way is to fly into Makassar in Sulawesi from Jakarta or Singapore.

From there, take an overnight bus to Rantepao. If you’ve got enough time, continue on to Ampana and then take a boat to the Togian Islands—a little paradise..

Hi there, I’m following Djalma’s recommendations for the Toraja region and its dramatic landscape, which is perfect for hiking and seeing terraced rice fields, fast-flowing rivers for rafting, and the local customs and traditions—especially the funerals that involve three-day ceremonies and are actually joyful celebrations. The less-visited Togian Islands and the snorkeling to observe a wide variety of fish are also highlights. To get there, I’ve tried approaching from the south several times, but I’ve also gone via the north: Singapore-Manado, then down to Ampana. Near the Toraja region, there’s also the Mamasa area, which is rarely visited. And if you arrive via Manado and prefer the sea, there are plenty of islands north of Manado. Happy travels! Eric

Hi Chefetmaman, We spent 4 weeks in Sulawesi in 2024, and I just got back yesterday from 4 weeks in Bali and Flores... I can only encourage you in your plans—far from tourist traps, Chinese groups, and traffic jams! In 28 days, I didn’t see a single tourist bus in Sulawesi. We started at the Ramang-Ramang site, located 40 km north of Makassar: it’s the second-largest karst site in the world, with a series of very narrow but towering passages, breathtaking landscapes, boat rides through fern-filled cathedrals, and visits to several caves—some featuring hand paintings dating back nearly 3,000 years! You can get there on your own by flagging down a "Bemo," a small minibus found on main streets... One of them took me straight to the site’s boat dock for just a few rupiahs. My host appeared almost magically and gave us a ride on his motorbike with his brother to his home. The comfort was spartan, especially the bathroom... but the kindness was incredible! We stayed for 4 days, including one amazing full day with the family head, who was the best guide in the area (featured in a caving guidebook!). We had the place to ourselves—no entrance fees or just a few cents here and there. After 4 days, our host booked us an overnight bus to Rantepao...

When you arrive in Rantepao, it’s like stepping into another country! Here, the people are Catholic, and churches are everywhere. Three huge additional highlights: 1) The houses are incredibly beautiful, resembling the prows of boats, a reminder that this was originally a fishing community... Every arrival in a village surprises and amazes you—it’s just so stunning! (photo 1&2) 2) From July to September, funerals take place, and foreigners are welcome for the day (cost: 1 carton of cigarettes, which is a bit more than a pack in France!). You’ll get another culture shock! Up to 200 guests per day for 5 days, with incredible rituals and unbelievable constructions for the ceremony (photo 3), lots of fun, and everyone in their finest clothes. There’s just one slightly tough moment—at the end of the day, they sacrifice cows (slaughtered on the spot)—but it’s an experience you’ll never forget! Families sometimes go into debt for 15–20 years to pay for it, and it’s common for the deceased to be embalmed for several years while they gather the necessary funds... They keep them at home, dress them, and even talk to them in the morning... 3) Once the ceremony is over, a representation of the deceased is placed in balconies carved into the many cliffs... Young children are buried in trees—they’ll grow with their host!!!

There are plenty of other things to see, like the town of Kete Kesu (3-4 km away), especially the north, which is the kingdom of terraced rice fields (photo 1), with these incredible rituals (photo 2). And don’t forget that during a stroll, you might come across coffins planted in the rocks at any moment (photo 3: look at the top right for the pig-shaped coffins). It’s the little street just before Mama Tia’s—there’s also a stunning housing development there.

In Rantepao, we stayed in a homestay with Mama Tia—she’s an institution! He’s a guide, knows everything there is to see, and takes you there (he has 5 scooters and 1 car). For two people, the night was 12 € with a fantastic breakfast (photo 4). Plus, his daughter went to culinary school and prepares excellent dishes for just a few euros!

There were lots of young people, and the vibe was really friendly... (8 rooms for rent).

We didn’t go further north—the only road is long and tiring—but it’s a diver’s paradise with heavenly islands...

On the way back down to Makassar, you can stop by Bira, where they build deep-sea boats entirely out of wood without a single screw... The beach is also stunning...

There are also tea and coffee plantations (buy some at Rantepao’s market!).

A tip: don’t rent a car for the whole trip, because you’ll have to pay for the driver’s room and meals. Instead, rent a car in each place you stay—it’s much cheaper...

Advice: sign up for "le fil d’Ariane," the official French diplomacy website, register your trip, and they’ll alert you to any potential issues. They can also assist in serious situations (eruptions, earthquakes, tsunamis, etc.).

Everywhere, the same kind and welcoming people—these folks are so endearing. It’s the first time we’ve returned to the same country twice... because it does us good!

We’ve been to Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Malaysia, Myanmar, Laos, Sri Lanka, India, China, and Jordan... always on our own, without an agency. It’s much easier than it seems! Locals always find a solution for you... just prepare well.

If you need anything, don’t hesitate!

Hi there, At least this is some good info! Hope chefetmaman takes note of it... Makes me want to go back to Sulawesi, where I’ve been twice already. Thanks

Thanks for these detailed explanations! I’m still unsure about hiring a guide for the whole trip—it seems complicated to organize all the transport, visits, etc. on my own.

I’ve been in touch with some French-speaking guides, and the prices vary a lot.

I *could* do it myself, but I’m afraid I’d miss out on things or waste a lot of time figuring out transport.

No, everything works out quickly over there!

For Ramang-Ramang, there are only 2 or 3 guesthouses. Ours was Ramang-Ramang House (photo 1)—very basic, but at 15 and 20 years old, that’s not a problem, and they’re so kind, absolutely lovely! We saw some Italians who rented a scooter and did 160 km (round trip) just to come give them a kiss before heading back to Italy! The head of the family is the best guide in the region. Visits are done on foot and by canoe—no cars possible in this spot. If you want to stay somewhere else, you can still hire him as a guide... It’s just one day (but packed—bring good shoes!)

Tip: On foot, when leaving the house, take the road to the right. After 300–400 meters, there’s a small rocky outcrop (photo 2). The entrance is roughly in the middle. You’ll wander for 3/4 of an hour in a stunning setting!

We also took a long walk through the surrounding countryside—pure bliss! 3 days seems perfect!

Our host booked the overnight bus to Rantepao for us—it normally doesn’t stop in Ramang-Ramang. Then he took us (in two trips) to the meeting point and waited over an hour with us for that bus. He wanted to make sure we’d be taken care of!!! The overnight bus is very comfortable (24 berths) and spotless. You arrive in Rantepao in the morning, feeling great!

In Rantepao, Jacob from Mama Tia (photos 3 & 4) knows everything. He’ll suggest visits, a funeral (a must-do), and handles transportation at very low prices... There’s so much to see in the area. You don’t need to worry about it or waste money on a car and guide!

Tip: The street that goes up to the right just before Mama Tia’s path leads to a stunning local housing development, coffins embedded in the cliff, and a staircase climbing into the forest.

For budget reference, for two of us, the Ramang-Ramang to Rantepao trip cost a little over 3000 € (including 1650 € for flights). For the three of you, there might be a bit more car use than scooter, but the difference won’t be huge...

After that, if you head north (the islands) or to Bira in the south, there’s the local bus—very cheap—or a car (more expensive!).

General tip: Download "Organic Maps" (or another app) on your smartphone. It’s free. You download the Sulawesi (Celebes Islands) map, and with GPS, you can pinpoint your exact location without needing internet or Wi-Fi... You can even get directions between two places! Often invaluable...

Best regards,

Hello Djalma, Your photo of Pons in Royan is absolutely stunning! Best regards