CAPE VERDE 2025: 3 weeks, 4 islands.

And we still haven’t seen everything! Before setting off for new horizons at the end of this year, it’s time for me to share my trip to Cape Verde this summer 2025.

I particularly love these spontaneous trips, and our stay in Cape Verde is one of those because it was only at the beginning of April that we decided on this getaway, which had been catching our eye for a while, given our love for the mountains.

As always—well, when it’s open—I turned to VF, and I want to immediately thank Marie, aka ptitortue, who helped me a lot in planning this trip through her travel journals and our exchanges!

Because Cape Verde is both small and vast! We decided not to rush from one airport to another, to enjoy the places and the people, but also to relax, since the work backlog from being stuck in May (see my previous travel journal 😅) had to be caught up on in June.

So, 4 islands will be our winners from 06/28 to 07/19:

Santiago first for logistical reasons, as round-trip flights from the capital Praia were the cheapest (650 €/person from Lyon via Lisbon with TAP, still!)

São Vicente, because it’s the gateway to the next one but ultimately more than that...

Santo Antão, pretty much the main goal of the trip since Marie (and the photos) had really sold it to me.

And finally, Sal Island, for some rest—a non-negotiable condition for my other half—and we’ll see that I should’ve listened to Marie...

That said, what a chatterbox I am—buckle up, flight attendants at the doors, off we go on new beautiful escapes! (Thanks to Sophie for the easy loan)

Last note for my eager fan club 😏: yes, there will be alcohol—how could there not be in the land of grogue!

It starts here:

https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10790234;a=10790234

Hey Bruno,

I’ve often thought about Cape Verde without taking the plunge.

The islands I’d picked were Santo Antão and São Vicente, just like you.

So I’m really looking forward to hearing more (with or without drinks, haha!) !😉

Welcome Agnès, make yourself comfortable—you’re the first one here! The challenge will be to see it through and find the time to work on this travel journal. But once you get started…

Final details for my eager fan club 😄: yes, there’ll be alcohol—how could there not be in the land of grogue!

Eager, *eager*... yeah, right... 😇🤪😄

Your fan club... or rather your groupies 😂 Alright, as usual, I’ll be following along... it’ll be mocktails for me ☺️ yep! Still haven’t gotten into alcohol 🍷‍🚫 Back in 2017 when we went to Cape Verde (Santiago and Fogo), Marie really helped me out... she’s THE go-to for this destination.

Hello Bruno,

I’m joining your beautiful Cape Verdean escape and I’m ready to cheers 😉 even if this destination isn’t on my to-do list. Plus, as you know, I already have a pretty packed schedule 😉.

Hello Bruno

It took a lot of persistence, but I finally managed to book the flight to Santiago (VF kept redirecting me to the one going to Mauritius ).

So, off to Cape Verde, which I personally loved (with, unsurprisingly, a soft spot for Santo Antão). I’d even considered going back to visit other islands. So I’ll be happily following your adventures 🙂

Hey Bruno, I’ll be following your travels! We’re planning to go in January and I still haven’t booked my tickets 😉 With EasyJet, it’s half the price (for now) compared to TAP. But when it comes to reliability (cancellations, delays, etc.), EasyJet doesn’t exactly thrill me. Hurry up—I need info Is there good rum in Santo Antão?

Thanks for suggesting a destination that’s not too crowded (especially with an injured leg 😜), and I’ll keep my two cents to myself on anything related to al..cohol.

I’ll be following your adventures in Cape Verde with pleasure too! 😊

Hi there,

I’ve really been wanting to go to Cape Verde. It was on my wish list last summer, but some friends of my sister had gone the summer before and found it *way* too hot. So we ended up skipping it. I’ll be following your story closely!

Hi there! Bom dia everyone!

Thanks so much for coming in such numbers—I’m feeling the pressure now! 😉

@kate, oh yes, absolutely breathless! @Rouquine, your 2018 travel journal was one of the reasons we chose this destination (minus Fogo, but my calf wouldn’t have survived it). @Erjome, departure is coming soon—you’re going to love it! @Muriel, Vf is in cahoots with Atilla 🙁 @Djalma, Santo Antão is where it’s best! @Jojoone, you can add your two cents wherever you like—my travel journals are as free-spirited as I am! @Annachris: A new groupie? Bem-vinda! @Bluequark: We weren’t there during the hottest season, but it could still get pretty intense. I opted for air-conditioned accommodations (not so common here) to avoid suffering too much. That said, the differences from one island to another can be significant.

In the end, we could rename VF as "Travel Family"—friends are here (missing my buddy Christelle and a few others, but she’s always late to the party...). Let’s get this show on the road!

Part 1: Island of SANTIAGO This time, I’ll try a geographical approach rather than a chronological one for this travel journal, though we’ll still go through the trip step by step.

After a 2-hour and 4.5-hour flight (plus a very quick 1.5-hour layover in Lisbon 😅), TAP will drop us off in Praia. The taxi arranged by our Airbnb host (15 €) will be on time, and by 3 PM, we’ll pick up the keys to our first accommodation for two nights, right in the historic center of the city.



View of the Plateau from my balcony ;)

I’d read here and there that Praia was meh, that we shouldn’t bother stopping there. But I had my first Cape Verdean shock there. For some reason, I was expecting a Portuguese country. Our first steps in Praia left no doubt: we’re in Africa. But not sub-Saharan or equatorial Africa—no, a Brazilian Africa. One that shouts, sings, smiles, and prays.

Praia is, I think, the heart of Cape Verde’s engine. It alone concentrates 30% of the country’s population, with over 140,000 souls.

I’d deliberately booked in the historic center, the *Plato*, which isn’t frequented much by tourists, at least not during our visit. But the two days we spent there, surrounded by a population that clearly isn’t rolling in money (to put it mildly), immediately gave us a sense of the realities of this country: Life is tough here—structurally, economically, and in terms of healthcare. Power outages are routine, water supply disruptions are very common (there are water jugs under the sinks). But Cape Verdeans will manage. They have no choice. And they’ll do it with music... and a smile.



Once we sorted out the logistics—local cash (the Cape Verdean escudo, fixed exchange rate of 110 CVE to 1 € at banks, 100 to 1 € in shops) and a SIM card, plus a few odds and ends 🤪 my partner had forgotten in France, including her swimsuit 😅 (trust me, not the easiest thing to find here)—we acclimated the next day to the heat and hustle by wandering through the historic center, the municipal market in the morning, then the Sucupira market and Gamboa beach. We deliberately avoided the Achada district, which is much more “touristy,” to stay in the heart of the action. For our first meals, we played it safe, skipping the many street vendors for more traditional restaurants and familiar dishes.

Municipal market

Don’t worry, we kicked off our first evening with the national drink, the *caipirinha*, on the terrace of a restaurant in the pedestrian zone, to the sounds of a bar singer skillfully performing *morna* and *coladeira* (typical music), which made us think: *That’s it, vacation has started!* Here, no *cachaça*—the national alcohol is *grogue*, made from sugarcane, and I’ll admit it flows freely... The energy and frenzy of the day calm down quickly in the evening; Cape Verdeans wake up and go to bed early. We did the same.

While I’m on the subject of pleasant surprises, a special mention for the coffee! Mostly locally produced and consumed, and as someone sensitive to its quality, I can tell this is the right place!

Last good surprise: though I’m not comfortable with Portuguese and even less familiar with the local Creole, many people here understand and speak French. First, because the school system taught it until recently (now mostly replaced by English), and also because the French community is significant in the Cape Verdean diaspora, which plays a crucial role in the country’s economy—but we’ll definitely come back to that later.

On the second day, our first move—we decide to head to Cidade Velha, the first and former capital of Cape Verde, and above all, the first city built by Portuguese settlers when they arrived in 1462.

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To get around here, there are two options: The *aluguer*, a shared minibus that leaves from one set point to another once it’s full, for a ridiculously low price. Well, low for us, anyway. The fares are fixed, regulated, and the same for everyone (though, double-check—just like anywhere, there are scammers). This is THE way non-car-owning Cape Verdeans get around.

Then there’s the taxi, private, which leaves when you want and goes where you want. Prices are also fixed between bus stations, but otherwise, you haggle... A taxi ride costs roughly 10 times that of a shared ride... so we think twice.

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For our visit to Cidade Velha, we decide to go for the budget option, especially since the departure point is really close to our accommodation (each destination has its own "station," often just a parking lot—locals know them by heart). We spend the whole day exploring the site: its historic center, *rua da banana* (considered the first street built in Cape Verde), and we make our way up to the Fortaleza de São Filipe. There, we cross paths with a Cape Verdean who’s passionate about his country’s history. He speaks perfect French and tells us all about the Creole history of the nation, shaped by the blending of African and European cultures—including the devastating impact of the slave trade.







Our first grilled fish by the water, then back to Praia since we already have to leave Santiago—though we’re all too aware we’ve only scratched the surface. But I already know the itinerary will change; I want to learn more about this island.

If you want the rest of the story now, it’s here: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10790959;a=10790959

I'm always running late!!! And bam—I missed the first drinks 😏

Thanks Bruno for this new travel journal!

I'm always running late!!! And bam, I missed the first drinks 😏

Hello and welcome, Pascale! No worries about the drinks, there’ll be plenty more 😄

The Cape Verde motto: No Stress!!

Hi there,

I’ve really been wanting to go to Cape Verde. It was on my wish list last summer, but some friends of my sister had gone the summer before and found it *way* too hot. So we ended up skipping it. I’ll be following your story closely!

Hi, It’s true that summer isn’t the best season—at least not if you’re planning to hike. For lounging and the beach, it’s perfect (well, *almost* perfect!), but for anything else… Summer is the start or peak of the rainy season, so it’s *super* hot and, above all, *super* humid! But there are better times to visit Santo Antão, for example: between November and February-March, it’s less hot, even cool/cold at higher altitudes in the evenings and at night. That’s partly why summer ends up being the low season here—too hot and rainy. So don’t hesitate to come during a more suitable time! Marie

Hi Bruno, After all this time, I’m so happy to read your travel journal! It’s really nice!! ;O) And thanks for the shout-out. That feels good too and motivates me to reply to other messages and help each other out. Just a little correction for the aperitif lovers... or should I say, the local culture enthusiasts!! ;O))): the caipirinha isn’t traditional at all. They serve it in bars (mostly for tourists), and you might find it at parties, but it’s pretty recent and definitely due to tourism. The real local drinks are grogue (rum) or ponche mel (and all the variations!!) We can’t wait for the rest! Marie

Hello Marie!

Now that you're here (though I would’ve been so sad if you hadn’t come), I’ll have to behave and not tell too many silly stories!

I really wanted us to meet in Ponta, but even Cape Verdeans take vacations! 😉

And my first blunder on a topic where my reputation is on the line!! The only Caipirinha tradition I have is actually my own—maybe because I didn’t really click with Punch Mel, too sweet for my taste. I prefer grogue Velha, specifically the one from Santo Antão. It’s harder to drink as an aperitif (minimum 40% ABV, officially).

More to come soon—don’t hesitate to correct me if I’m talking nonsense!

Hi there, Definitely not the best season in summer, especially if you're into hiking. For chilling on the beach it's perfect (well, sort of!), but for anything else... Summer is the start or peak of the rainy season, so it's reeeally hot and, above all, reeeally humid!

And yet, that’s exactly why we came in July—because I knew we’d have some peace and quiet. Yes, especially on Santo Antão, the mornings could be misty. We didn’t get any rain (much to the locals’ disappointment), and we had to hike early to avoid the afternoon heat. And as for the rain, Erin showed us that nature always takes its course...

Thanks for the explanations and tips. The issue is that it’s late July-August when I can take a long vacation (more than 15 days), and I’d like to hike somewhere. I’ll wait a bit longer for now.

Well, here comes the "Cricri tut tut, I'm on my way!" Bruno 😄. But I was waiting to really have the time to savor your long-awaited first Cape Verdean words 😊.

I have to say, the atmosphere you describe immediately makes my mouth water—especially that "Brazilian African" vibe, which really reminds me of São Tomé, a place we loved.

And then when you start right off with a caipirinha tasting to a musical backdrop, it’s clear you know how to talk to your fan club 😆.

By the way, is "Caipi" the short version of caipirinha like in Brazil, or not at all?

Well, here it is—"Cricri tut tut I'm coming" Bruno 😄. But I was waiting to really have the time to savor your long-awaited Cape Verdean words 😊

Oh, there’s our Joelle Mazart (got the reference?)

I have to say, the atmosphere you describe immediately makes my mouth water, especially that "Afro-Brazilian" vibe, which really reminds me of São Tomé, a place we loved.

Believe it or not, when I arrived in Praia, I immediately thought of your travel journal!

By the way, is "Caipi" the short for Caipirinha like in Brazil, or not at all?

It’s the same drink worldwide, and yes, it’s the diminutive in Brazil and elsewhere. The only difference you might find is that in Brazil, the base alcohol is cachaça, while elsewhere it could be rum.

True story: we took in two cats a few years ago (actually, I’ve lived with them ever since), and you’ll never guess—they’re named Caïpi and Rhiña 🤪

Believe it or not, but when I arrived in Praia, I immediately thought of your travel journal!

Ah!! I remember my São Toméan journal didn’t impress you much! I hope the weather was kinder in Cape Verde and, most importantly, that you avoided fuel shortages and flat tires 😄

I don’t know why I was expecting a Portuguese country. Our first steps in Praia left no doubt: we’re in Africa. But not sub-Saharan or equatorial Africa—no, a Brazilian Africa. One that shouts, sings, smiles, prays.

What a fantastic culture-shock report! You’re officially confirmed as our ambassador (note that the diplomatic pouch isn’t meant to transport the eponymous spirit). Just a reminder of your secret mission: restock the spices and aromatic plants that make said spirit a success (cocoa beans, gentian, bitter orange, sweet orange, vanilla...).

Thanks Jean-Luc, too late to take on the secret mission, even though I *did* bring back a few intoxicating bottles in my suitcase (including a white from Fogo Island that’s absolutely divine 😵)😛

But I’m curious: in 2025, who even knows about—and more importantly, who drinks—Ambassadeur? 🤪

Believe it or not, but when I arrived in Praia, I immediately thought of your travel journal!

Ah!! I remember my São Toméan journal didn’t wow you! I hope the weather was kinder in Cape Verde and that you avoided fuel shortages and flat tires 😄

Your journals radiate sunshine and your energy—it was your travel conditions that put me off. Here, no car rentals for us, so we’re dodging those issues…

No car rentals here either

Why?

Qui crie, qui chante

Yikes, I’ll have to pick some remote places to stay!

No car rentals here

Why?

First, because there are several islands, so renting a car each time means losing time picking it up and dropping it off. Plus, there aren’t many options, and prices are high (around 60 €/day on average).

Second, the *aluguer* network is perfectly set up and really affordable. Taxis are an option too, but they’re pricier.

Most importantly, if you’re hiking, there are few loop trails, so a car won’t be much use to you.

We decided not to rent one

But most importantly, if you're hiking, there are few loop excursions, so the car won’t be of any use to you.

That’s a great point! 😉

But most importantly, if you're hiking, there are few loop excursions, so the car won’t be of any use to you

And what’s this then? 😉 https://www.komoot.com/fr-fr/guide/3260707/randonnees-autour-de-parque-natural-do-morocos

I just took a quick look on Komoot… At Cha Morte: Pousada do Sossego? They even serve lobster for dinner! Maybe grogue for aperitif too? 😏 https://visitsantoantao.net/comer-e-dormir/

I’m counting on @Ptitortue for their spots!

Thanks for the explanations and tips. The issue is that it’s late July-August when I can take a long vacation (more than 15 days), and that’s when and where I’d like to hike. I’ll wait a bit longer, then.

It’s possible in July/August, but you’ll need to start *very* early in the morning to hike as much as possible while it’s still cool.

But most importantly, if you're hiking, there are few loop hikes, so a car won’t be much use to you

And what’s this then?😉 https://www.komoot.com/fr-fr/highlight/3980002 I just took a quick look on Komoot... At Cha Morte: Pousada do Sossego? They even serve lobster for dinner! Maybe grogue for aperitif too?😏 https://visitsantoantao.net/comer-e-dormir/ I’m counting on @ Ptitortue for their recommendations!

Yes, of course, there are *some* loop hikes. Just not the majority here. Far from it. Pousada do Sossego is great. Around here, it’s known as Chez Suzy (and Nelson, but Nelson passed away, so...). Hence the name change. But Suzy is very kind. Simple and family-run guesthouse. As for the lobster... well, it depends on the timing. It’s not always "in season," and it’s not always legal to fish for it. Personally, since you never really know if it was caught under good conditions—outside of breeding and spawning seasons—I’d rather skip it :O) But grogue? On Santo Antão, you’ll find it everywhere... at any time of day! Even at breakfast! Marie

but grog, on Santo Antão, you’ll find it everywhere... and at any time! Even at breakfast! Marie

I admit, I didn’t try it at breakfast. 😛

Noob! 😛

A little "pressure" ??? : strela is really good !! That was in Praia a few years ago !😉



Strela or Superbook, pick your side 😉 Don’t forget the country’s motto: No stress! Welcome here, Lillie!

A little "pressure" ??? : strela muito bom !! That was in Praia a few years ago !😉



Strela or Superbook, pick your side 😉

Strela....Kriola, of course!!

Your 2018 travel journal was one of the reasons we chose this destination (minus Fogo—I don’t think my calf would’ve survived either)

So glad my travel journal inspired you to visit Cape Verde... yours will definitely make me want to go back and especially discover new islands! 😊

After all, we could rename VF as Family Travel—our friends are here (missing my buddy Christelle and a few others, but she’s always late to the party...), and we’re ready to go!

Yes, a big family that shrank a bit after VF ended 😢. Well, Christelle’s here now—high five! 👋

Part 2: São Vicente Island

It’s CABO VERDE airlines that will take us on this 50-minute hop to São Vicente. With a bit of apprehension because the sites and Facebook pages about Cape Verde are full of all kinds of aeronautical woes—from simple delays to outright flight cancellations without notice, compensation, or any assistance...

But we’re at the very start of the tourist season, the weather (and wind) is mild, and we’ll land at the Césaria Évora Airport in Mindelo with just a 30-minute delay.



And there, second Cape Verdean shock: From the plane already, the profile and views of São Vicente and São Antão, its big sister just a stone’s throw away, are stunning.

Once we arrive in Mindelo, the contrast with Praia is striking. Here, it’s a small town geared toward tourism, the atmosphere is much more relaxed, and we’ll even struggle to find an open restaurant. It’s true that we took our time at the guesthouse, Casa Bom Dia, chosen for two nights for its proximity to the city center and its private terrace with a splendid view of the town.

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The next day, I feel the urge for freedom to explore this island. There were plenty of offers in town and online to hire a guide with a vehicle, but after a few clicks and phone calls, we decide on a scooter for the day at 30 €.

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Especially since São Vicente is a small island—227 km², a pebble just 24 km/16 miles at its longest. We hop on the scooter for an easy ride on deserted paved roads, all the way to Baia das Gatas, famous for its huge international music festival during the full moon in August. The festival was canceled this year, though, because of Hurricane Erin, which hit Mindelo hard. https://information.tv5monde.com/afrique/video/au-cap-vert-apres-la-tempete-erin-9-morts-et-1500-deplaces-dus-aux-violentes-inondations-2788537

I wonder if the town has recovered from the storm’s aftermath—maybe Marie has recent updates? Either way, in early July, the place is deserted, and we’ll have the beach, the village, and the jetty all to ourselves. .



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We continue to Calhau, another deserted fishing village, before ending our trip in São Pedro, a village on the west coast near the airport, for lunch.

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We don’t know it yet, but São Pedro is also known for the chance to swim with green turtles. It’s a small crowd by the beach—and a tout who approaches us as soon as we arrive—that lets us in on the secret.

We’re not usually comfortable with this kind of excursion, no matter the animal or the country. We prefer to leave these creatures in peace—they didn’t ask for this. Plus, I’d already swum with turtles in Akumal, Mexico, back in the last century. But the tout’s insistence and the chance for him to earn a little money, combined with our desire to see these enchanting animals up close again, makes us cave.

The excursion is sold by all the agencies in Mindelo, but here it’s more of a local, artisanal vibe—and I like that. We board his small motorboat and stop 150 meters from the shore, in the open sea. Weird—are we already there? But where’s the turtle?



No sooner do we stop than one, then two, then more turtles circle the boat (we count seven). Of course, they’re alerted by the engine noise and lured by the fish the young man throws.

So many turtles that the Cape Verdean couple expats from France who joined us decide not to swim with them. The sea is rough, and that doesn’t exactly encourage snorkeling. Even for me, holding the life jacket (not recommended to wear it—it’ll take you out to sea), it wasn’t easy. Still, the moment is magical—the turtles are only focused on the food and don’t even notice us.



My attention is drawn to two specimens with GPS trackers, and I’ll learn later that evening, chatting with our host, that they’re part of a government study to determine if these practices harm the species. First, because a turtle’s diet is mostly herbivorous, and second, because if they’re fed year-round, they might lose the urge to migrate—a vital part of their life cycle. I worry about the study’s findings and the fishermen’s little business...

Back in Mindelo, we drop off the scooter quickly. The evening is all about calm and relaxation, enjoying the terrace of the restaurant with live musicians accompanying us.

The next day, our departure for Santo Antão is scheduled on the 2 p.m. ferry. The morning is spent wandering aimlessly, visiting the municipal market, the fish market, the miniature replica of Lisbon’s Belém Tower, and the many colonial villas. I really love the vibe of this town. Mindelo reminds me of Paraty, Ouro Preto... .



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Then it’s off for an hour-long crossing—pretty calm, though it’s not always the case—for our next stop: Porto Novo.

A little post for the photos...

Statue of Cesária Évora at the airport

On the pier







Our shuttle



São Vicente

The bird island at the harbor entrance

More to come live, right here: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10791942#10791942

This photo makes me feel like I'm in Chile!

turtles eat fish 😮!

In Akumal, there were some that measured over a meter (I almost tripped on the beach because I didn’t see a turtle laying eggs right at my feet at night 😏).

Did you see any big specimens in Cape Verde too?

Wow! That was a quick visit for these first two islands... you guys are fast! 😄

Looks like the ferry service has really improved! On the way there, we had to take a replacement boat (the usual one was under repair), which was much smaller (but no more frequent). Thankfully, our host helped us out because it had been absolute chaos trying to get tickets and board the boat

(Boarding followed by a crossing that wasn’t too rough, yet half the Cape Verdeans were throwing up into plastic bags they then tossed into the sea ).

Thanks, Bruno, for bringing back all these memories 🙂

turtles eat fish 😮 !

Well, no, actually—but I think their diet adapts to what they’re given.

In Akumal, there were some that measured over a meter (I almost tripped on the beach because I didn’t see a turtle laying eggs at night right at my feet 😏) Did you see any big specimens in Cape Verde too?

Honestly, the photos don’t do them justice—I mostly took videos, but the ones we saw were between 80 cm and 1.2 m in diameter. No nesting in São Pedro, though; they just come to feed.

I feel like I'm in Chile with this photo!



Gotta swing by your travel journal again 😉

Wow! That was a quick visit for these first two islands... you're fast! 😄

Let’s be honest, Sao Vicente is a big rock. We had high hopes for Sao Antão. But I did have a little *je ne sais quoi* pulling me back to Santiago, which is why we changed the plan (more to come).