A summer in the sun in... Iceland!! (page 1 of 5)

Ah, Iceland and us—it’s quite the story, or rather, a long wait... The first time we considered going was already 7-8 years ago, after reading travel journals describing breathtaking landscapes, countless active and dormant volcanoes, glaciers, and waterfalls with extraordinary flows. In short, this island, made of fire and ice, right at Europe’s doorstep with its own unique culture, had nothing but advantages, and it was urgent to visit without delay 😇

My *Routard* guidebook is actually from 2016. So why did Iceland make us wait so long before we finally gave in to its charms? Yes, why indeed?

Simply because reading other travel journals revealed the cost of living there—and especially the harsh climate, even in the middle of July 🤪! Some journals described entire weeks of rain and foggy weather, making it tricky to explore the island. The budget wasn’t spared either, because in the most touristy areas, especially in the south and around Myvatn, accommodation prices are downright indecent—even outright robbery. 😕

Plus, in the Highlands, there’s literally no permanent lodging, and the only way to spend several nights there is to camp. And camping in winter conditions wasn’t exactly part of our plans... 😄

So, year after year, this trip kept getting postponed...

until August 2023, when prices for Southern Africa, North or South America, or even Asia were all way too high for summer 2024!

That’s when I turned my attention back to the Land of Fire and Ice and scoured all the comparison sites for the best accommodation deals across the country. Planning for 20 nights, I found 13 nights in "proper" lodging for 5 people at an average cost of under 200 €! A miracle, considering that in the southern glacier region, around Vik or Myvatn, prices range from 300 to 1000 € per night 😮 😮!

Still, that means we’ll have to camp for 7 nights, mostly in the Highlands, near Askja or Landmannalaugar. 😎

For once, I built the daily itinerary entirely around the decently priced lodgings I found 11 months in advance! The shortage of places to stay in some areas forced me to plan a few long transition days and make some tough choices. No big deal, though—there’s so much to do on this island 🙂!

Once the main itinerary was set, everyone agreed to the plan: 2/3 in proper lodging and 1/3 camping, even the most camping-averse among us! *Follow my gaze...*

By the time we bought the flight tickets, I had to tweak the itinerary a bit because one or two places were already booked! Plus, it was impossible to wait for a more refined plan to adjust reservations, since almost all bookings are non-refundable!! The harsh law of supply and demand...

For the car rental, we booked a Hyundai Tucson, approved for the Highlands, from Lava Car Rental—a company I’d read good reviews about in a Facebook group—for a cool 2500 € with full insurance. A real 4x4, like a Defender, would’ve been more than double...! Welcome to Iceland 😕...

Activities and excursions also required some tough choices. We had two must-dos: whale watching in Húsavík (60 € pp on Getyourguide) and a Glacier and Summer Treasure Glacier Walk with BlueIceland (165 € pp with discount codes on Getyourguide).

For the baths, we skipped the Blue Lagoon—too expensive—in favor of the Secret Lagoon and the Myvatn Baths, the Blue Lagoon’s equivalent but half the price.

Two baths for the price of one... and even more, since I spotted several free hot-water swimming spots.

Itinerary: Day 1: Arrival in Reykjavik - Hraunfossar Waterfall - Surtshellir Cave Day 2: Grábrók Crater - Snæfellsnes Peninsula Day 3: Stykkishólmur - Sturlungalaug Hot Springs Day 4: Northwest Coast - Akureyri - Goðafoss Day 5: Myvatn Day 6: Myvatn - Dettifoss - Selfoss - Rauðhólar Day 7: Húsavík Whale Watching - Dettifoss - Selfoss Day 8: Stuðlagil Canyon - Seyðisfjörður Day 9: Puffin colony - Störurð Hike Day 10: Hengifoss - East Fjords, Mjóifjörður Day 11: Viking Village - Jökulsárlón - Fjallsárlón Day 12: Glacier Excursion - Svartifoss Day 13: Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon - Vík Day 14: Þakgil - Lava Show Vík Day 15: Southern Waterfalls Day Day 16: Landmannalaugar - Skalli Hike Day 17: Landmannalaugar - Bláhnjúkur - Brennisteinsalda Day 18: Secret Lagoon, Kerlingarfjöll, and Gullfoss Day 19: Geysir - Reykjavik Day 20: Bruarfoss - Þingvellir - Kerid Crater - Krýsuvík Geothermal Area Day 21: Reykjanes Peninsula

Friday, July 5, 2024, is our last workday before driving up to Alsace overnight to leave the cockers at Grandpa’s for boarding. Then, at 1:30 AM, we’ll head to Frankfurt, where a direct flight to Iceland awaits.

We arrive at 4 AM. Since we leave at 7 AM, the "night" will only last the equivalent of a 30-minute nap 🤪... just enough to get us in the road-trip mood 😏!!

Day 1 - 07/06: Arrival in Reykjavik - Hraunfossar Waterfall - Surtshellir Cave The Icelandair flight from Frankfurt to Keflavik only took 2.5 hours—quite a change from our usual long-haul flights. During the flight, we got the bare minimum service: a bottle of water and that’s it. No screens, no snacks, no other drinks.

As soon as we step out of the terminal, we’re greeted by bright sunshine but a very cold wind. We quickly realize our ski jackets won’t be leaving our sides often!

After a quick call and a 10-minute wait, a Lava Car shuttle picks us up to drop us off at their office. The employee is friendly, and we get the keys quickly. No insurance is pushed on us—and for good reason, we already took care of all that to be on the safe side!

It actually takes us longer to find the Tucson, and we have to play Tetris to fit all our luggage—even though we only packed one big clothes suitcase for five of us!

The rest of the luggage is for camping gear (tent, sleeping pads, sleeping bags), a second pair of shoes, food, etc.

So focused on optimizing luggage space, we didn’t even think to check where the spare tire and jack were—something we *always* do in the U.S.



After a quick grocery run at a Netto in the Reykjavik suburbs, we head into the countryside and meet the lupines in full bloom across vast fields.



We head toward Akranes because I’d spotted the Guðlaug baths at a good price. But when we arrive, we understand why...

The baths look more like a crowded concrete pool by the beach. The setting is far from the idyllic scenes some photos online suggest.

There isn’t even a proper changing room—it seems people come already wearing their swimsuits!

We decide to skip it and continue along Route 1 until we find a nice spot for a picnic. The view is stunning, but the wind is *brutal*—and freezing!

After lunch, we set off to explore Hraunfossar, one of Iceland’s most beautiful waterfalls! Unlike the country’s more famous falls, Hraunfossar—or "lava waterfalls"—gets its name from a series of streams and cascades flowing over lava rock lined with lichen.

What makes it special isn’t its height or water volume, but the fact that countless streams spill over nearly a kilometer into turquoise-blue water!





A well-maintained trail lets you see it from different angles.



A little farther away, Barnarfoss—or "children’s waterfall"—is said to be named after an accident where two farm children fell from the natural stone bridge above the water.

This waterfall is pretty ordinary compared to its neighbor (not worth one of the 300 photos we took).

A bit more driving to reach the end of Route 578, and we park in a huge, empty lot—the starting point for the Surtshellir cave. Why this cave? Because it’s one of the few you can visit without a guide *and* it’s free! Elsewhere, you’d pay 50 € per person just to walk through a lava tunnel. We thought that was way too expensive for what it is...

We each grab our headlamps and quickly dive into the cave to explore.

The temperature inside is cool and damp, as expected.

The walk is fun, with alternating flat sections and big rocks. Some of the lava stones have a really unique texture.

The cave must be about 500–600 meters long, and we all love the feeling of being completely alone, navigating only by our headlamps!



At the other end, we find a huge pile of snow we have to go around to reach a stone mound that’s supposed to help us exit... Except there’s a 2-meter climb up the cave wall above the pile of rocks !!



One wrong move, and we’re looking at serious scrapes—or worse.

No way we’re taking that risk, especially with my knee still recovering from ACL surgery just three months ago. So we turn back.

Too bad, because right near that exit, there’s supposed to be a way to connect to another cave, Stefanshellir, according to maps.me.

Time’s getting on—it’s nearly 6 PM—so no more dawdling on the way back. Well, *they* move quickly; my knee’s acting up, and I’m limping despite my brace...

Back in the open air, we’re almost at the parking lot. Even though the sun’s still high, it’s too late to try Stefanshellir by the surface route. We’ll have to get used to planning our days by the clock, not the sun—since it barely sets at these latitudes this time of year.

Before heading to Fossatun, where we’ve booked a cabin, we stop at the Stalrid Food Truck, right next to a geothermal site, Deildartunguhver.

The menu? A choice between a *normal* Fish & Chips and a... *small* Fish & Chips.

After 20 minutes of deliberation, everyone goes for... Fish & Chips, which you can eat in a greenhouse where mostly tomatoes are grown.



Some of us like the meal, others find it too greasy!

We’ll have to get used to this kind of food—it seems Icelanders aren’t big on refined cuisine, at least not in our budget range...

Because let’s be real: 120 € for five boxes of Fish & Chips and five sodas *hurts* a little 🏴‍☠️!

The worst part? I scoured Google to find all the restaurants, diners, and food trucks with "reasonable" prices along our route.

Just before arriving at Fossatun:



For our first night, I booked two cabins at a great price (2 x 86 €) at Fossatun Camping Pods & Cottages.



At this unusually low price for Iceland, bed linens aren’t provided, so we use our sleeping bags.

The shared bathrooms are right next to the two hot tubs, where we rush to soak after a mandatory shower as soon as one frees up. The water quality is a bit questionable, so we all prefer to shower again afterward.

Drying our stuff is easy—it’s nearly 30°C inside the (over)heated cabins thanks to geothermal energy ! This’ll be a constant in all our lodgings, and we’ll often have to open the windows because there’s no way to adjust the heating !

I layered on 3 fleeces, a raincoat, fur-lined boots, a pair of gloves, and a beanie. 😏 Ready for the rest of the trip! 😉

I loved the Surtshellir area even though descending into the lava tunnels wasn’t possible (too much snow). After that, it was pretty much the only place I saw the sun in Iceland... 🤪

It was after reading your travel journal that everyone got cold feet about going to Iceland, even in summer 🏴‍☠️ !!

You can put away your winter gear—we’ll be in T-shirts, or nearly, for two-thirds of the trip !

Ugh! 😇 It's true I really didn't have any luck! 🏴‍☠️ A couple I met at the start of my trip had 3 weeks of almost non-stop sunshine. 😡

Day 2 - 07/07: Grábrók Crater - Snæfellsnes Peninsula

A quick check on the Vedur app gives us bad weather forecasts for tomorrow. So, we decide to cancel the R50 "Baejarfell" hike from the Rother guide and postpone tomorrow’s dip in the Landbrotalaug hot springs. This way, we’ll have the whole day to explore the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

This peninsula, often called "Iceland in miniature," is famous for offering a concentration of all the natural wonders Iceland has to offer: waterfalls, beaches, cliffs, canyons, caves, volcanoes, glaciers, and seal colonies.

In short, if the guides live up to their promises, we might just experience one of the best days of our trip! So, it’s best to have the weather on our side...

Since we’ll be driving a lot in sometimes remote areas, I prefer to fill up the gas tank. The little detour takes us through a field of lupins stretching as far as the eye can see and past the Reykholt church, which has an unusual architecture.





The first highlight of the day is the Grábrók crater. It’s a 3,000-year-old volcano that’s easy to climb, with only 170 meters of elevation gain, thanks to well-maintained walkways and stairs.

Sure, the site lacks a bit of authenticity, but at least it helps contain the wanderings of bipeds and protects the natural flora.

From the top of the crater, the view of the lava fields covered in moss is stunning,



as is the view of Grábrókarfell, the other imposing crater right next to it, also covered in moss! What a striking contrast!

The inside of the Grábrók crater is a bit marred by the walkway, so we’re not too impressed.



At the southern entrance of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, I’d spotted an unusual site, Gerðuberg. It’s a wall of large hexagonal basalt columns stretching over a kilometer long.



A few clouds give us some nice contrasts on the mountains lining the road.

The peninsula is home to a seal colony on Ytri Tunga beach. When we see the number of cars parked in the paid parking lot, we think we made the right call stopping... but as we get closer to the end of the beach, we don’t see any seals...

Following other people to the tip, jumping from rock to rock, we finally spot about ten seals.





There really aren’t many! At least, not on the seal side—because on the human side, it’s a different story!

After a few satisfying shots, we don’t linger.

Our next stop, about twenty kilometers further west, is the Bjarnafoss waterfall.



Right next to it is the village of Búðir, which is worth the detour for its beautiful black church nestled in an idyllic setting!

As we leave the village, we come across a few sheep with really thick fleece. You need it to handle the Icelandic climate!





It’s almost lunchtime when we reach the Rauðfeldsgjá gorges. As soon as we get out of the car, there’s a terrible wind that doesn’t let up as we approach the canyon.



From a distance, we see people staying by the edge of a mini-waterfall coming from deep within the earth. Instead of walking the last 300 meters to the canyon’s edge, we suddenly feel lazy and prefer to settle for the overall view of the cliff.

On the way back, I realize we could’ve walked inside the gorges, through the slot canyon. A bit annoyed afterward at our laziness, even though the river’s flow might not have let us go very far...

So, around 1 PM, we arrive in Arnarstapi for lunch—not at that cute little restaurant (way over budget)



but at a street food truck serving excellent quesadillas!

Before taking a walk along the Arnarstapi coast, we backtrack to take Route 570 leading to the Snaefellsjokull glacier. But the road is in bad shape, and we struggle just to reach the Sönghellir cave.

Actually, there are even two caves, and they make for some cool photos!



Back in Arnarstapi, we leave our car near the harbor to start the seaside walk.

The setting is idyllic, the cove gorgeous—though we can’t imagine swimming here...



One house in particular catches our eye...





Birds have made their home in the hollows of some cliffs. Clearly, they don’t bother flying away to do their business...



The walk leads us to this viewpoint, offering a glimpse of the entire coast. We see a few more people gathered at the other parking lot, but no matter—the view from there is probably about the same.

Since my knee is acting up again, I figure it’s not worth the detour just to change the angle...

Oh no...! It’s only on the way back, when I look up Arnarstapi on Google, that I find out we missed the circular rock arch of Gatklettur that was right there 🏴‍☠️!

Oh well.

The next viewpoint is Londrangar, two massive rocky pinnacles standing by the sea. One rises to 75 m and the second to 61 m! With wind strong enough to blow the horns off a bull, I try to keep my DSLR steady to capture the scene. 😮



We then reach the western tip of the peninsula.

There would have been the option to take a guided tour of the Vatnshellir cave, but since we’d already visited one, we skip it and head to Djúpalón’s black sand beach instead.

The small loop trail takes us through a lava field, complete with a bonus arch!



After a stop at the Saxholl crater—which, luckily, was on our route but wasn’t a must-see—

we make another beach stop at Skarðsvík Beach. This time, the sand is a mix of all colors, with a yellowish hue dominating.



The weather takes a turn for the worse by the end of the day, and it’s forecasted that clouds will cover the sky until tomorrow evening.

Then, suddenly, just a few minutes from Grundarfjörður, a break in the clouds appears—one that might not last long.



As it happens, we arrive just in time at Kirkjufellsfoss, one of Iceland’s most photographed sites.

We hurry to find a parking spot—paid, as is so often the case in Iceland—to snap our own souvenir photo.





That’s when we realize how lucky we are to catch this little window of opportunity. Looking back, I think the two hiccups of the day—which ended up saving us a good hour in our schedule—turned out to be a blessing in disguise...

For a packed day, it was *very* packed... but absolutely stunning 😇, with one incredible site after another, and a grand finale at Kirkjufellsfoss 😇. Half a day extra wouldn’t have been too much to explore the whole peninsula, but we’ll take what the weather gives us!

We spend the night at Grundarfjordur Stöð Guesthouse (168 €), a guesthouse with rooms that can accommodate 2 to 6 people. It’s clean and welcoming. Like in other guesthouses or motels to come, there’s a space at the entrance to leave your shoes, and everyone walks around in socks—or even barefoot.

Oh, Iceland, what a magnificent country!

I threw on my merino clothes to follow your adventure! 😄

Hello Guillaume

Iceland is gorgeous under the sun (even a single ray of sunshine 😉). I’d been tempted by the landscapes for years, but always ended up choosing warmer destinations instead 😎. I knew prices were high... but I didn’t realize they were *that* bad I’m still heading there though, after layering up some extra clothes (even with the sun, your sheep look pretty windswept ).

Hi Nathalie and Muriel, there’s plenty of room to hop in!

Muriel, you’re absolutely right about the wind—it’s often up there at the top of the hills... where I took the sheep photos 😏!!

Weather-wise, I think we picked the right year—this summer, people seemed pretty fed up with all the rainy days in a row !

Day 3 - 08/07: Around Stykkisholmur - Sturlungalaug Hotsprings

After a restful night without having to wake up at dawn, we enjoy a leisurely breakfast at the guesthouse.

A quick drive to Grundarfjördur, where nothing tempts us to get out of the car...

So we try our luck again in Stykkisholmur, supposedly the most beautiful town in Snaefellsnes.

Not much to see here either—we suspect the *Routard* writer might be a bit biased!

Leaving Stykkisholmur, we stop for a walk that’s popular with locals: the climb to the top of Helgafell. When we arrive, we suspect the land is private—there’s a parking lot and a small booth in the middle of nowhere, ready to take a few Icelandic krona from us!

The climb is quick, offering a panoramic view of the surroundings.

Now, time for a hot-water soak—one of Iceland’s treasures!

I’d planned to swim at Landbrotalaug Hotsprings, but the only "hole" big enough barely fits two people. A couple had just gotten in, so we weren’t about to wait our turn. A little further on, we find another spot, but it’s not exactly inviting!

The water isn’t deep at all, and the bottom is covered in mud just waiting to stick to our bodies. No thanks—we’ll look elsewhere!

Last night, while searching for hot springs on the Icelandic Google, I stumbled upon a spot I hadn’t heard of before: Sturlungalaug Hotsprings. It turns out to be just a few kilometers away—why not give it a try?

We take Route 55 and turn west at (N64.84746; W22.21203).

The track is smooth and deserted. We even have to open and close gates to keep the animals from wandering off. We leave the car at the end of the track—nothing suggests there’s a hot spring here! After a 100-meter walk on a half-swampy, grassy path, we discover a natural pool in the middle of nowhere (N64.86953; W22.2838)!

After a quick temperature check, we hurry to change into swimsuits and take the plunge.



In some spots, you can clearly feel the hot water rising—even scalding in places—so we move carefully. Depending on where you stand, the water temperature varies between 37°C and over 45°C!

The setting is stunning, and we enjoy this little spot for nearly an hour before an Icelandic family joins us. We politely make room so they can enjoy the same tranquility we did!

As they say, swimming makes you hungry! So we get back in the car to find a nice spot for a picnic. This place, right on the access track to the baths, seems perfect!



Hats are obviously a must to avoid catching a cold...

We hit the road again toward our next stop, a BnB in Bordeyri.



Bordeyri is a coastal village on the edge of Hrútafjörður fjord.

Walking along the beach, we’re literally attacked by birds flying just above our heads, deliberately brushing past us! Luckily, they don’t decide to drop anything on us...

Day 4 - 09/07: North Coast - Akureyri - Godafoss

A long transition day awaits us—the longest in terms of distance, with 470 km planned to reach Myvatn, including a few small detours.

We set off early on Route 711 along the coast, aiming to spot seal colonies at several possible locations.

The first stop is Illugastadir, but no seals in sight... Instead, those same birds go wild on Tim, who’d lagged a few dozen meters behind. He even ends up falling!



We hurry back to the car and continue the loop to Hvitserkur, a massive rock with a double arch suspended over the ocean.



The view from the top of the cliff is pretty cool too!



On the way back to the parking lot, Tim realizes his phone is missing from his winter jacket . We turn around and rush back to Illugastadir, half an hour away on the track, hoping to find the phone he thinks he lost when the birds attacked and his jacket was tossed around.

Unfortunately, there’s no trace of it—neither on the beach nor on the trail. Tim is gutted! No smartphone with all his games on day 4 of the trip... Some moments are going to feel long for him... 🏴‍☠️

With nearly 1.5 hours lost searching on an already packed day, it’s clear we’ll have to cut some visits. Since I’d already planned the Myvatn baths for tomorrow evening, we decide to skip Fosslaug, whose basic setup would’ve reminded us of Sturlungalaug Hotsprings from the day before.

We still check out the points of interest I’d found along the way, starting with the church at Viðimyri near Sauðárkrókur—a charming little traditional church covered in turf and grass. There’s nothing special inside; its charm is all on the outside!



Then, in Glaumbaer, there’s a church with a colorful interior, but the real highlight is the Glaumbaer farm. The 19th-century traditional houses are recognizable by their turf and grass roofs. The farm has been turned into a museum to showcase typical Icelandic living.

The next stop is the town of Akureyri, the "capital of the North" and the country's 4th largest city with only 18,000 inhabitants!

It's lovely to stroll around the very pleasant town center, and we take the time to enjoy a milkshake in one of the many cafés on the pedestrian street.





Then, we wander over to the town's botanical garden, which is home to thousands of types of flowers and plants from all over the world, including 430 species typical of Iceland.



We leave Akureyri with regret to continue east.

Just outside the town, there’s the option to take an expensive tunnel, whose main advantage—especially in the middle of winter—is avoiding having to cross a pass exposed to bad weather.

We choose the free option, making a 20-minute detour that lets us gain some altitude and rewards us with a beautiful view of Akureyri. At the top, the pass is still partially snow-covered!

Halfway between Akureyri and Myvatn, we make one last stop to admire the Godafoss waterfall, the "waterfall of the gods," one of Iceland’s most majestic waterfalls!

The spectacle is breathtaking on both sides of the river!!





The second waterfall on the site, Geitafoss, is much less pretty. And yet, both waterfalls have the same water flow.

As we head toward Myvatn and the Guesthouse Stöng chalet (280 €/night) booked for two nights, we listen to French radio commentary about France’s defeat against Spain at Euro 2024.

Thanks for this travel journal—it takes me back over 10 years! We loved Iceland, no doubt helped by the mostly pleasant weather. It wasn’t exactly a budget destination even back then, but I see prices have really gone up since.

Soaking in the hot springs is definitely one of Iceland’s greatest pleasures. Beyond the most famous ones, there are plenty of more hidden—and smaller—spots. I remember one in particular that our host recommended.

As for the birds that attack, it’s because they’re nesting and protecting their young. The best thing to do is turn back to avoid stressing them. If you *have* to pass through, since nests can be just about anywhere, the trick is to grab a stick (a piece of wood, a hiking pole, etc.) and hold it above your head—the birds go for the highest point, so at least you won’t get pecked in the head.

Bummer about the phone! Hope Tim still enjoyed the trip anyway.

Hey Bluequark, thanks for following me!

The hot baths are indeed moments of relaxation and a guarantee of staying nice and warm! We ended up doing far fewer than planned due to unexpected events, and I kinda regret it.

Thanks for the info and the tip about bird attacks—I had no idea 😉.

J5 - 07/10: Myvatn

The Myvatn region is one of Iceland’s geologically richest areas—the pearl of the North—with an extraordinary concentration of sites to visit.

The steep cost of accommodations, which explains this, led us to spend only two nights there. In other words, we won’t be sleeping in today!

After waking up at 5:45 AM, we were already on the road by 6:30 AM to reach the trailhead for the first adventure of what promises to be a very long day!

The goal, to warm up our legs (much to Laetitia’s delight), was the summit of Vindbelgjarfjall, the panoramic mountain.

This is hike #31 in the Rother guide, listed as 5 km, 1.5 hours, and 270 m of elevation gain.



Despite a few morning groans and grumbles, we made it up quickly, and the panoramic view of Lake Myvatn and its many islets was worth the detour!



It was barely 9 AM when we parked at the most visited site in the area: the Hverir solfatara.

The Hverir site showcases nearly every volcanic phenomenon: solfataras, mud pots, fumaroles...

From the start, we were struck by the stunning panoramic view, even in the shade!

The place is impressive, with the slopes of Námafjäll displaying colors ranging from ochre to sulfur yellow, lava black, and clay gray.

The Námafjäll mountain, with its vibrant upper hues, invites exploration—but all in good time.



A small marked trail, which you must not stray from, allows you to circle the site and walk between the bubbling mud pots. Smoke is everywhere, and so is the smell of sulfur!

These mud pots form when rainwater seeps into the ground, heats up, and becomes charged with gas and sulfuric acid.



Other pots appear dry, barely smoking. The contrasts between shades of gray, yellow, and ochre, with fumaroles here and there, are striking!

In some areas, it’s strongly advised not to leave the marked path, as doing so could damage the site. This is especially true in sectors where dried clay forms a fragile, cracked-puzzle-like surface.



The steam from some fumaroles reaches 100°C, and the ground temperature exceeds 80°C in places.

We then begin climbing Námafjäll, alongside other French travelers.



At the summit, we’re rewarded with an extraordinary panoramic view of the Hverir site and the entire plain!

In some spots, the ground is so hot that it’s best to avoid placing your palm on it!

After descending, we cross back through the geothermal area, passing by other empty or full mud pots.



We then take Route 863 for a few kilometers, passing by a geothermal energy plant with its massive above-ground pipelines.



Two major sites await us up ahead.

First, Lake Viti, a crater formed during the 1724 eruptions, now filled with turquoise water that contrasts beautifully with the site’s colors.

The second site is Leirhnjúkur, an active volcano in the Krafla volcanic system that saw major eruptions between 1724–1729 and much more recently, in 1975 and 1984.

You explore this site by following a trail or even boardwalks.

Right from the start, the scenery is breathtaking with the contrast between lava flows and ochre mountains! In some spots, moss adds a touch of green to the landscape.



After a few hundred meters, you reach the actual lava flow where the scenery is stunning, resembling the solfatara at Hverir.

There are solfataras and other fumaroles with sulfur smells, as well as bubbling mud pools!



After a pause by the main pool, you continue along the boardwalk.

The different shades of gray likely correspond to different eruptions. No photo can capture the vastness of the site or the alignment of the various eruption cones.

The loop continues through still-smoking areas, with warm ground and alternating patches of moss and lava fields.



To remind us that Iceland is the Land of Fire AND Ice, you cross an area still clearly covered in snow!

What a sight, what a magical atmosphere!





That’s all well and good, but it’s already 1 PM, and we’ve been doing physical activities for 6 hours straight, so we head back to the village to grab the only meal offered by the only restaurant: Fish & Chips!

Four out of five of us are already wiped out!!

Thinking we haven’t consumed enough calories yet, we buy 1 kg of ice cream to share for dessert.

Once our stomachs are full, we head to Grjótagjá cave, which was used as a filming location in *Game of Thrones*.

The water there is very hot, and of course, swimming is forbidden to preserve its purity!



Our reservation for a relaxing session at the Myvatn Baths isn’t until 5 PM, so we still have 2 long hours to "wait."

But there’s no way we’re doing nothing under this gorgeous sky! A little further south, we still have two spots left on the itinerary. Even with heavy legs, we head to Dimmuborgir, an amazing lava field made up of column formations and lava sculptures.

There’s even a large arch!



After exploring the lava field created by the Hverfjall volcano eruption, we *have* to go check out the crater that shaped the Dimmuborgir site. We *want* to, sure! But do we still have the legs for it? Not really!

Luckily, the climb isn’t too long, though our calves do feel it. We’ll recover tomorrow...

The view from the top is just incredible!!



The crater is 200 meters deep and 1,200 meters in diameter. If you multiply that diameter by Pi, we’re not sure how many extra steps the circular walk that many people do would add, but we skip it and settle for this viewpoint—lower than the opposite rim—which still offers a great perspective!

Aren’t the views from the South Rim of the Grand Canyon (lower in altitude) prettier than those from the North Rim?!

So we wrap up this incredible marathon day with a relaxing moment at the Myvatn Baths!!

An extension is under construction, and temporary fences have been put up to avoid spoiling the view.

The water’s color and characteristics are similar to the Blue Lagoon in Reykjavik, but the entry price is less steep. The scenery is on point this partially sunny evening!





We treat ourselves to a cocktail aperitif, which I risk drinking even though Iceland has a zero-tolerance policy for drinking and driving. The odds of getting pulled over in this area—especially after covering just 10 km without seeing a single police patrol—must be close to zero...!

Back at our cottage, we whip up a hearty plate of pasta with sauce and chicken to recharge properly after this endless, unforgettable day!!

It’s once again 30°C inside, so we crack open the windows to make the temperature bearable.

What a day! Exhausted just reading about it. The landscapes are stunning. I remember thinking how great it was to be able to walk around without worrying about protection and stuff—just being careful not to step off the path.

Hello Nathalie and Muriel, there’s plenty of room to join us!

Muriel, you’re absolutely right about the wind—it’s often there at the top of the hills... where I took the sheep photos 😏!!

Weather-wise, I think we picked a good year because this summer, people seemed pretty fed up with all the rainy days!

Yes, in early August 2024, we had several days of nice weather. Okay, the wind was still around, but snow already appeared on August 18th in the north of the country, so several trails were closed. But Iceland gave us other amazing surprises, like the volcano erupting (see my avatar photo) and the northern lights!

I can’t wait to read the rest of the travel journal!

What a day! Exhausted just reading about it. The landscapes are stunning. I remember thinking it was great to be able to walk around without protection and all... just watch your step.

We really adapted our schedule to make the most of the good weather, since we’re super sensitive to the sun when it comes to how we experience the sites we visit! Even though it’s less and less the case, it’s true there aren’t many barriers—the authorities rely on tourists’ good sense.

This summer, we were more relaxed in Chile’s Atacama region, though we felt suffocated by how infantilizing and oppressive the authorities’ pressure was! But it’s precisely because of overtourism that they’ve gone to such extremes!