Comoros again: trip report

Well, I still feel a bit lonely about this destination—no requests for info, no travel journals, or trip reports since I last posted over a year ago. A little disheartening.

That said, I did cross paths with slightly more tourists this time. Not a ton, but enough to notice compared to my last stay. Beyond that, not much has changed—the people are just as lovely, and every interaction, whether at the market, in the medinas, in town, or in the countryside, was positive. It was so pleasant; my "alert meter" stayed at zero the whole time (which is pretty different from some other places I visit now and then). The roads outside the cities remain dangerous, and the accident rate seems high. Best to drive during the day and take it easy (on some rough stretches, you don’t really have a choice anyway). The scattered plastic and metal waste hasn’t magically disappeared, and it’s still pretty discouraging to see the most beautiful beaches surrounded by empty bottles, straws, diapers, and rusted carcasses of an old Xantia or a skeletal Espace. When it’s not on the beach itself (since those are cleaned), it’s just a few meters away. Usually, there’s not much in the water or close to shore—the seabeds are gorgeous, with coral and a wide variety of scaly friends... But stepping back onto the hardened lava, you dodge a chip bag or a shriveled battery. Such a paradox. Honestly, it’s like this almost everywhere except on hotel beaches or those far from human settlements. But otherwise, in places like Chomoni, Bouni, Itsandra, Moya, and Domoni (on Anjouan), Nioumachoua (on Mohéli, and even on the nearby islets), it’s hard to ignore. And it unfortunately tarnishes the beauty of these otherwise stunning spots.

That said, you can still find secluded micro-bays, protected and remote, where this isn’t an issue. And where there are hotels—like in Petite Itsandra in Moroni, in front of Laka Lodge in Nioumachoua, Trou du Prophète, or even Chomoni (though the surrounding areas are so littered...)—the beaches are cleaned, so...

So why go? Why still love it despite all this? Well, first, the Comorians themselves—that’s already essential and probably the main reason. Then there’s the breathtaking topography: the imposing Karthala, the dizzying peaks and cliffs of Anjouan, vast ravines, a tortured geology covered in lush nature, and Mohéli, much more serene and gentle, blanketed in spice plants and trees with names that make you dream, like an open-air spice market. The flora across the islands—the fields, trees, scents: clove trees, cinnamon trees, lychee, mango, cardamom, nutmeg, vanilla, coconut palms, banana trees, coffee plants, cocoa... A profusion of green dotted with red, white, and yellow berries and flowers... The seabeds are stunning in many places, and there are some beautiful beaches/oceanfront spots, especially near Trou du Prophète (but not only there). The history and culture—between traditional festivals, but especially the medinas with their staircases, covered passages, palaces, and mosques that create Escher-like constructions. I love wandering through them for hours, stumbling upon an unlikely shop, a more or less philosophical saying like "pain is a warning," "a promise is a debt," or the less original "little by little, the bird makes its nest." A grocery store, women negotiating freshly caught fish (usually tuna, immediately cut and ready to sell), kids playing, old men playing checkers, a call to prayer... In Moroni, Mutsamudu, and Domoni, I spent most of my "urban" time.

If anyone’s interested—though given the hype about Comoros on the forum, I doubt it—but if you need info on accommodation across the three islands, some restaurants, or sites to visit, don’t hesitate to ask.

This message is another message in a bottle (one more, if I dare...) for the Comoros destination.

Hello! It's great that you're sharing some info about these islands—I really regret having set them aside! I just passed through Anjouan in a flash around 1999 or 2000, I think, after a grueling crossing on a decrepit old tub from Majunga to dock at Anjouan...

Quite a story... I was supposed to fly from Majunga to Mayotte, but since Madagascar was paralyzed by strikes at the time, I had to fall back on the "boat." In reality, it turned into a "boat people" experience, and—contrary to what was announced—the boat took 48 hours instead of 24 to make the crossing. On top of that, it didn’t drop me off in Mayotte but in Anjouan! I arrived just in time to catch a flight to Mayotte. I have to say, I was pretty impressed by Anjouan’s beauty—the mountains and the massive cliffs covered in forest that you see when you disembark.

Given how bare-bones the airport was, I can assume the island isn’t very wealthy. On the boat, I’d met some students who had gone to study in Madagascar. That says it all! They were returning empty-handed, having found nothing in their field... As you said, the people are very welcoming. When we arrived in Anjouan’s port, the boat had to wait for customs to open before docking, and I thought I’d miss my flight to Mayotte. But the boat’s captain had pulled out all the stops to notify the authorities of my arrival, so as soon as I set foot on land, a moped was waiting (for free!) to take me to the airport.

I’d promised myself I’d go back to this island someday, but it still hasn’t happened...

Yes, it sounded quirky and adventurous—really nice, in any case.

The Comoros depend on remittances from the diaspora for 20-25% of their GDP. You see OM (Olympique de Marseille) jerseys—some vintage, some with "Ici c’est Marseille"—everywhere. It shows just how closely intertwined the diaspora’s economy is with that of the islands. On the islands, there’s very little industry (if any at all), a bit of subsistence agriculture, fruits, flowers, and spices, and fishermen catching tuna from small boats. Not much else. Most goods are imported and therefore very expensive. There’s a tiny bit of tourism, but it’s really minimal—you can count the hotels and restaurants on two hands in Grande Comore, and even fewer on Mohéli and Anjouan. But it’s peaceful, the landscapes are beautiful, and the atmosphere is calm (I know it’s not always the case). Very pleasant. On Anjouan, the scenery is truly spectacular, especially around what’s called *la cuvette*—the very old town of Domoni with its rich history and unfortunately faded remains, the charming and friendly medina of Mutsamudu, and a few historical remnants in the city. The highlands of Mremani, often shrouded in fog, are great for walks between fields along sunken paths lined with hedges, where you can see streams and patches of forest... If it’s ylang-ylang or clove season, the scents are amazing...

Seriously, if you get the chance, don’t hesitate.

Which flights should I take to get the best prices without a journey that's too long with multiple layovers?

I’m flying from Africa, so I’m not sure I’m the best person to give advice. But every time I’ve gone, I’ve flown with Ethiopian. There’s also Kenya Airways. I don’t know if their flights are a good deal from Europe, but there were French, British, and Italian travelers on the Ethiopian flight. There are other airlines too—Emirates and/or Qatar Airways, I think. Turkish Airlines possibly, and as for European carriers, I’m not sure. But in the summer, with all the holiday returns, there are a lot more flights, especially from France.

Thanks so much for this report, Din—it sounds amazing! The Comoros tick all the boxes I’m looking for.

The only downside is that flights from the southwest of France are way too expensive, with two layovers and nearly 1,300 € for the ticket!

But maybe one day things will get better 🤞 See you soon, Christelle

It might not be cheap, unfortunately, especially if you're leaving from Toulouse. I found fares for 950 € with Ethiopian Airlines on certain dates from Marseille, and 800 € or even less with Kenya Airways from Paris.

Air France, Turkish Airlines... are also options, but I didn’t see any fares as good. More like 1,000 €. Same from Paris.

Between the islands, flights are also pretty expensive compared to the actual flight time (between 15 and 30 minutes), but there are either small boats or a bigger one that just arrived, and it’s way cheaper (I would’ve taken it, but at one point I was traveling with a buddy who’s not really into boats).