Roads and weather in Dolpo in autumn

Hi there, I’d like to head to Upper Dolpo in September/October 2026. Does anyone know the current state of the roads in the area? Specifically for getting from Saldang to Dho Tarap. Also, what do you think about the weather between September 20th and October 20th? Any tips would be much appreciated. I’ve already checked out the info on Martinpierre’s site—it’s super detailed about the region, but the details are a bit outdated. Thanks in advance for your advice. Thierry

Hi there, The Upper Dolpo is a hidden Behun land, and the window to travel there is very short. The passes risk being closed after late August. With the general climate disruption these days, it’s hard to say—back in 2009, I crossed it. You can contact my friend Chhiring Dorge Lama; his agency is called Jannu Adventure. I’m heading back with his assistance in April 2026. You can reach out to him on behalf of Sylvie and Gilles. Good luck with your planning, and make sure to train hard if you’re heading up there. Gilles

I’d like to go to Upper Dolpo in September–October 2026. Does anyone know the current state of the roads in the region?

Uh… Even if a “road” (more like a wrecked track) has been built in recent years, I’d avoid going that way unless you’re fearless. Anyway, it’ll only get you as far as Lower Dolpo, maybe to Dunai? I think the only way to reach the gates of Dolpo is on foot or by plane. By plane, you have to fly to Juphal near Dunai. That means Kathmandu/Nepalganj and then change planes for Juphal (the airstrip serving Dunai), and from there, just lace up your boots and start walking😏.

Especially for getting from Saldang to Dho Tarap.

To get to Saldang, you have to cross two passes over 5,000 m—you can only do that on foot, and that’s a good thing. Just so you know, Upper Dolpo requires a special permit that you can only get through a licensed trekking agency in Kathmandu. It costs at least $500 for 10 days, plus $50 per extra day. Since a guide or agency is mandatory, you’ll have to go through one, and it’s not cheap. On top of that, there’s the cost of the flight to Juphal.

Also, what do you think about the period from September 20 to October 20 in terms of climate?

Dolpo is shielded from the monsoon by the Himalayan barrier (Dhaulagiri), so you can easily go there during that time—or even in July/August. The only issue is the flight, which is more than unpredictable because it’s a visual flight, and there was a crash a few years ago. You could also end up stuck in Dolpo, and the helicopter will only come if the weather conditions are okay. Good luck! Here’s a short and “easy” version of the Dolpo trek without taking a flight one way: https://www.sahibvoyageur.fr/trek-n%C3%A9pal/itin%C3%A9raires/tarap/ If you’re an experienced hiker, I’d recommend Upper Mustang instead. It requires the same special permit, but the trek is easier since the ascent is gradual toward the timeless fortified city of Lo Manthang, and you rarely go above 4,000 m.

I went to Lower Dolpo solo and without a guide in 1989, and with an agency to Upper Dolpo in 1994 and Upper Mustang in 2014. For landscapes, Upper Mustang is fantastic.

PS: If you want more info about Nepal in general, trekking regulations, and the different permits, contact @TerryTara, who lives in Nepal

Thanks to both of you for your replies. The question about roads isn’t about going there by vehicle, but about avoiding them. I went to Mustang in 2000 and didn’t like it all that much. I visited Lower Dolpo in 1997 and loved it. Nowadays, I’d love to relive a trip in an authentic Tibetan Buddhist world.

If you're interested in the Lamaist Buddhist world, you can also head to Zanskar or Spiti... even though a road now winds through these Indian regions, I think there are still valleys off the tourist trail. The advantage is that, as far as I know, unless conditions have changed, you don’t need to pay for a permit.

Yeah, I hesitated for a long time, but I already visited Spiti back in the 2000s, did the Markha Valley trek in '94, and completed the great Zanskar crossing in 2006. Having heard things about the region, I’m too afraid of being disappointed. Diving into an “authentic” Tibetan world is getting harder and harder—even in Tibet (Kham, Ando), it’s no longer possible. Thanks for your advice, which has often helped me through VoyageForum.