Family trip to Brazil: Paraty, Ilha Grande, or both?

Hi everyone,

We’re making a family dream come true: spending a month in Brazil from July 19 to August 20. We’ll land in Rio and spend 6 days there (we’ve finalized a home exchange for a lovely apartment in the Copacabana neighborhood). After that, we’re heading to Minas Gerais by rental car for 11 days (Tiradentes, Ouro Preto, and the Inhotim Institute), then the Costa Verde, and finally 2 days in São Paulo.

We’ll be traveling with our three kids, ages 17, 14, and 9, who are real travelers and good hikers. Goes hand in hand, right? 😄

For now, we’ve planned to visit Ilha Grande (4 days) and then Paraty and its surroundings (3 days). What do you think? Ilha Grande appealed to us for its hikes and beaches, but couldn’t we do that along Paraty’s coast? I’ve read mixed reviews about Ilha Grande...

Thanks for your tips, opinions, and anything else! !

Hello,

I’ve never been to Ilha Grande, I must admit… but I know Paraty and the coast. You really need a vehicle to head toward the beaches of Trindade because you can’t swim in Paraty Bay—you have to go to the ocean side. A really beautiful region, the Atlantic tropical forest is stunning! !

And I’m heading to the Inhotim Institute in early March—it seems huge, so I’m not sure yet if we’ll spend 2 days there or just a day...

Hi Sarah,

Here’s a great travel plan that brings back some memories 😊 I shared them here: If you go to Rio..., it’s not for Bolsonaro!!

You might find some answers to your questions starting from page 3.

Happy planning!

Christelle

It was a delight to read your post! I loved your energy and your sense of humor!

I had considered Buzios but decided against it. You’ve confirmed my choice. What others told you about Ilha Grande makes me want to include it in our itinerary. Hiking and beaches—perfect!

Thanks! !

Hi there! I was thinking of spending two days there to really enjoy this extraordinary place. Botany and contemporary art, on a vast estate—a mix that appeals to me!

Hi there! I was thinking of spending two days there to really enjoy this extraordinary place. Botany and contemporary art, on a huge estate—a mix that tempts me!

Couldn’t agree more!

So, it’ll be 2 days then.

A few random tips: if you like architecture, there’s a Niemeyer hotel in Ouro Preto, not too pricey—the Grande Hotel.

If you rent a car, many tolls are camera-based, reading your license plate. You pay afterward through the rental company, or they’ll charge the card you used for the rental. It’s cheap, and I’ve never had any issues with it. Same if you return to São Paulo with the car—the city has a system where license plates are only allowed on certain days (a bit like our even/odd plate rules). Ask the rental company for details… or else you’ll pay, from what I understand.

Botanical and Contemporary Art, on a vast site—a mix that tempts me!

Hello,

I confirm that Inhotim is worth it. There are outdoor works, galleries with paintings, sculptures, photos, and more... Don’t miss Claudia Andujar’s gallery and her photos of the Yanomami people.

The site is huge, so you’ll need time—especially since there can be small lines to enter some galleries. To get around faster, you can take golf carts (paid service) at certain times and stops (I didn’t use them).

But in one day, from opening to closing, you’ll already have time to see quite a bit.

For those without a car, there’s a special bus that leaves from the Belo Horizonte bus station, arrives when Inhotim opens, and returns when it closes—very convenient.

In Belo Horizonte, the Mercado Central is nice. It’s a great opportunity to discover regional specialties, plus there’s some handicrafts and exotic birds for sale. Inside the market, the restaurant "Casa Cheia" serves good typical dishes. It’s well-known, and there’s often a line to get in—because, as the name suggests, it’s usually full!

In the region, I also recommend visiting the Sanctuary of Bom Jesus de Matosinhos in Congonhas. It’s one of the main works by Aleijadinho, the Brazilian architect and sculptor considered the greatest name in American Baroque, who created the most beautiful churches in Minas Gerais. I went there by bus from Ouro Preto.

Visiting Minas Gerais is a great idea—it’s a beautiful region that’s somewhat overlooked by Western tourists.