Back to the discussion

in Entre deux voyages › Carnets de voyage

In the land... of Senegambia

Discussion started by Solene40 on 2026-01-10

90 replies

This thread has been translated into English.


In the land... of Senegambia

Solene40 · 2026-01-10

Hey fellow travelers!

So, a new year has begun. It’s time to reconnect with the VF buddies and wish you all my best for 2026—a year I hope is obviously full of travel, since, as I just made up: "If travel’s good, everything’s good" 😄.

To celebrate, I’m inviting you into my new "travel journal," the one from our latest trip in November 2025, a little two-week adventure.

This time, we headed to The Gambia, a tiny country tucked right in the middle of Senegal, before making our way to Casamance.

The Gambia is English-speaking, Senegal is French-speaking, but the locals? They couldn’t care less—because in this part of the world, they mostly speak Wolof, Fula, Jola, or Mandinka. Hence the title: Senegambia 😉.

As usual, I’m sharing the live updates I sent to friends and family—super casual, of course.

I know this isn’t the kind of destination that draws crowds, but if you love adventure, laughter, and emotion, it might just be your thing 😊.

Hugs 😘

In the Land... of Senegambia

Sinforosa · 2026-01-11

Hi Christelle,

I’m really looking forward to reading your travel journal because The Gambia might interest me.

A few years ago, when I went to the Canary Islands, I saw direct flights to Banjul (at the time, I had no idea where that city was!). So even if the destination isn’t super popular, I was wondering if you came across any Spanish tourists?

In the land... of Senegambia

Solene40 · 2026-01-11

Phew, thanks Marie, I was starting to feel lonely 😊.

We spent 6 days in Gambia and only met English speakers there. Not a single French or Spanish person.

On the other hand, in northern Casamance, there were lots of Spanish people who actually have a direct flight from Barcelona to Banjul and head straight to Senegal after landing. The vibe in the only little touristy spot in Gambia is pretty unique (I’ll come back to that later 😜). I guess that’s why they prefer Casamance.

See you soon for the next part 😊

In the land... of Senegambia

Sinforosa · 2026-01-11

Phew, thanks Marie, I was starting to feel lonely 😅.

I think everyone’s just waiting for you to start your story! 😄

I didn’t know there were direct flights from Barcelona to Banjul either.

In the land... of Senegambia

Montagnard74 · 2026-01-11

Phew, thanks Marie, I was starting to feel lonely 😊. See you soon for the next part 😍

Alright, alright, we're here!! After our little stay in Morocco, we're off to Gambia and Senegal. Countries that smell of adventure and authenticity—just how our Christelle likes it!

So, whether it's by 4x4, Clio, or horse-drawn carriage, I'm in! 😜

In the land... of Senegambia

Solene40 · 2026-01-11

Well, now that you're here Bruno, we're ready to dive into a truly exotic local culture! 😄



The idea behind this trip is to meet friendly locals in typical fishing ports, by idyllic beaches, near acrobatic monkeys, all set to the hypnotic rhythm of reggae 🎶.

So here we are in BANJUL, a capital that’s also known as "Wait, where’s that again?" 😄, and we can say we’re starting off with a bang!

Our first flight from Toulouse to Lisbon was seriously delayed. As a result, the passengers waiting in the Portuguese capital got to see two guys from Landes sprinting like madmen to catch their second flight. While our legendary speed saved us, our two bags weren’t as quick 😅!! Well, Lulu’s a pro by now (5 times in 30 years—no big deal 😆), but for me, it’s a first. Obviously, we couldn’t reach anyone, and TAP gave us zero updates. Plus, it was Sunday, so shopping was limited: toothpaste, a toothbrush, a dress for the missus, shorts for me, and flip-flops for each of us. Normally, you don’t need much more than that to be happy here 😆.

Anyway, that didn’t stop us from exploring the area and discovering the local specialty: third-age Anglophone tourism and a very pronounced social mix!! Meaning, mixed "couples" everywhere and *tons* of "Nova grannies" with young, ebony-skinned companions 👵🏾💃.



Okay, the AI might’ve exaggerated *a little* 😄, but we’re honestly not far from reality!

Even though I was well aware of it, it’s still surprising—especially in a country that’s 90% Muslim!

But hey, if I’m being honest, it’s also kind of nice to find a corner of the world where you can feel like Julia Roberts even at 90 (right, ladies? 😉💃).

Anyway, we’re betting this country has way more to offer than just that... time will tell! 😏🤞

In the land... of Senegambia

Babouandco · 2026-01-12

Hi Christelle,

This is a travel journal that’s off to a great start—I’ll be following along with interest! I’ve always been intrigued by that narrow strip of the Gambia, and I’m glad to learn more about it. A friend told me about Casamance years ago, and I’ve kept it in the back of my mind ever since.

PS: Mamie Nova is in heaven! 😊

In the land... of Senegambia

Rouquine38 · 2026-01-12

There we go, Christelle! I'm boarding too... 😊 Love your dreadlocks 🤩 As usual, I can tell we're not gonna be bored with you 😊

In the land... of Senegambia

Solene40 · 2026-01-12

Welcome, girls—you’re arriving just in time for a green bath! 😄

Day 2 in Gambia, and still no news about our luggage... but that hasn’t stopped us from diving headfirst into this trip! 😅

Today’s plan: visiting an enchanted forest sprinkled with little Gambian elves! And those elves are *sooooo cute*!

Especially with their timeless blue... *ahem* outfits. 😏



But beyond its "residents," BIJILO Forest is worth the detour all on its own: 51 hectares of towering trees of all kinds!



And yay—it’s the end of the rainy season, right when the green is popping *everywhere*! 🌿💚



Seriously, if you’re a chlorophyll lover passing through, you *have* to stop by. After 3 hours of exploring, I got a "yeah, it’s alright"—which, in Lulu-speak, translates to "I *loved* it, damn it!"—that’s how good it was. 😏

Anyway, it’s 1 PM, and our "schedule" for the day is officially done since, well, schedules aren’t really our thing. 😜

We’re far from everything, on foot, with a long walk back to the main road. There’s just one car parked at the exit: "Helloooo, need a taxi?" "Uh, we’re not sure what we’re doing yet. What’s your name?" "My name is Bob, Bob Marley."

"Oh cool, I’m Julia, Julia Roberts." 🤵‍♀️🤵‍♂️

Except *he* actually had an ID with that name, while I still haven’t made mine (though I’m thinking about it 😆).

One Love cap and an almost-official card—I bow to the evidence. 😆

So off we went with Bob Marley to grab a bite by the sea. 🌊



On the way, we mentioned how weird it was not seeing any fishing boats along the ocean: "That’s normal—they’re all in TANJI, 10 km from here." And just like that, our afternoon filled up... 😄

In the land... of Senegambia

Muriel18 · 2026-01-13

Hello Christelle

Wishing you an amazing 2026 too... and happy travels! 😎

Phew, thanks Marie, I was starting to feel lonely 😅.

You should add a link to your latest travel journal 😉 ... otherwise, we might miss the start (like me ! Though I check the "travel journals" section regularly ).

Here’s to new African adventures! 😎

In the land... of Senegambia

Bleulargo · 2026-01-13

Well, here we go! I’ve boarded and can’t wait to see what’s next. Especially since my trip to Casamance was back in the last century...

In the land... of Senegambia

Solene40 · 2026-01-13

Oh cool, Régis, it's nice of you to come keep Bruno company—it brings us closer to parity! 😄

So, heading to TANJI, where we arrive around 4 PM in a big town packed with people. And the shock is even greater because we had no idea what to expect.

Well, you're used to my realistic feedback, and I can tell you that after 10 steps out of the car, my hygiene-obsessed girlfriends would’ve bolted 😱. No, no danger here—just "crap" everywhere, awful smoke smells, and a stretch of beach littered with all kinds of trash 🤢🧻.

Okay, you just have to stomach the shock (not easy!) and turn your head to the left... to discover hundreds of colorful people noisily waiting for the return of this fishing community!!



Then you see the sea laborers diving into the water up to their necks to grab the fish "right off the boat’s stern" and haul them onto the beach in heavily loaded crates.



The crates are then picked up by women for sale or smoking while the kids watch the show.



Wow, emotionally, I can tell you this is just as intense as an Indian immersion 😊.

Actually, Gambia is a tiny country, and Tanji is its biggest port. Bob, who’s with us, says there are sometimes over 500 boats here, and this spectacle happens every day in the late afternoon.

All that’s left is to admire the boats setting off at dawn... maybe next week on a Senegalese beach if our "plan goes off without a hitch." (#ifitgoesleftyou’retoast 😏)

Meanwhile, we’ll find out tomorrow morning if we get our luggage back and if we can leave Banjul as planned—or if we’ll have to go on a "fashionAfrica" shopping spree until the end of the trip!!

Yep, the suspense is killing us too 🤪😵‍💫🤪😏

Have a good evening! 😊

In the land... of Senegambia

Rouquine38 · 2026-01-14

This fishing trip recap is gorgeous! Such beautiful moments in life 👍

In the Land... of Senegambia

Muriel18 · 2026-01-14

Especially since we, behind our screens, don’t get the smells ;) 😏

In the land... of Senegambia

Rouquine38 · 2026-01-14

Especially since we, behind our screens, don’t get the smells

Yeah, I’d forgotten that little detail 😄

In the land... of Senegambia

Solene40 · 2026-01-15

Good call, Muriel... though in TANJi it almost smelled like roses compared to what we’d visit a few days later 😱😂

In the land... of Senegambia

Solene40 · 2026-01-15

Naked and Barefoot, the sequel 😄

Since we arrived, it's Fabakary from the guesthouse who's been trying to get news about our bags. Yesterday he was optimistic: "Yes, yes, they're arriving tomorrow morning." Except that this morning at 10 a.m., "Uh, sorry, they're actually arriving tomorrow" (yes, yes, God willing 😅).

Okay, quick three-minute reflection: we really like it here, so let's stay one more night, and tomorrow, no matter what, we're off.

So Bob, whom we had said our goodbyes to, is happy to show us around a bit more: off to the BANJUL market.

After 20 km of almost highway, we arrive in a city much smaller than we had imagined, pretty quiet and leafy. As usual, the very typical market takes us on an emotional rollercoaster between "Yuck and Wow," but the goofy smile we wear in those cases worked wonders. We had a good laugh with some folks 😆....



and we made some great encounters with a little school right in the middle of the market 🧑‍🏫



The port is right next door, so we’ll pop over.



Same sanitary conditions as yesterday 🤢: smoke everywhere, "shantytown shacks" by the water,



men loading trucks, a few friendly fishermen



and then, the shock! A steel monster, totally surreal in this setting, is parked a little further away. Like a 10-story cruise ship with 3 pools, 5 restaurants, and 2 tennis courts!!



And there, it really feels like the world’s inequalities are hitting you in the face in one image. Because knowing it exists is one thing, but experiencing it live is another 🤯😤!

So the "Woe is me" tourists who lost their luggage didn’t stick around long, feeling a bit ashamed to be on the right side of the fence, especially after all those smiles we received!

But we better understood where the group of English speakers we saw at the market came from. I bet their excursion seemed "authentic" to them... about as much as if they had landed on a filthy Mars. And I admit, that’s a little comforting 😏

In the land... of Senegambia

Sinforosa · 2026-01-16

I never imagined cruise ships would stop in Banjul!

As you say, it seems surreal....

In the land... of Senegambia

Solene40 · 2026-01-16

Yes Marie, if I dared, I’d say it was downright indecent! I saw the same cruise ship in the bay of Cannes earlier this month, and it didn’t have the same effect on me at all. It looked completely in place there 😅

In the land... of Senegambia

Holigirl · 2026-01-17

Happy New Year, Christelle!!! And Happy New Year to you too, fellow forum friends 🙂

As usual, I'm late to check out the travel journal, but not as late as packing my suitcase, it seems 😏

This new journal looks full of color—between the senior tourist cougars, Bob Marley, and that famous monkey we’ve already heard about: we’re not gonna get bored around here 😎

In the Land... of Senegambia

Montagnard74 · 2026-01-17

I’d be tempted to say you’re never bored with Christelle’s travel journals!

In the land... of Senegambia

Solene40 · 2026-01-18

Aaaaah, there you are at last, Pascale, it was about time! 😄

And I admit, Bruno, it doesn’t exactly scream "travel routine" around here either 😅

In the land... of Senegambia

Solene40 · 2026-01-18

Day 4 in Banjul

Friends, let me tell you, ALLAH is great today (in every sense of the word 😂)


In the land... of Senegambia

Montagnard74 · 2026-01-19

I didn’t know Allah worked as a baggage handler too 😅.

Anyway, day 4 still 😊. And after all this time carrying around Lulu the jinx, haven’t you ever thought about carry-on luggage? 😄

In the land... of Senegambia

Solene40 · 2026-01-19

Oh yeah, it’s versatile—ALLAH and "Lulu the jinx," I love it 🤣

The worst part is my backpack/suitcase totally fits in the cabin, but they insisted I check it in 🤦. At least I had my swimsuit with me—hardly need anything else 😂

In the land... of Senegambia

Solene40 · 2026-01-19

Well, now that the luggage is retrieved, it's time to delve into the heart of the country 😉

The plan is to soak up some rural life in a small village of 700 inhabitants, surrounded by mangroves and bordered by a *bolong*!

You know, the kind of word you read everywhere when planning your trip but had never heard before. Basically, in this part of the world, it’s thousands of rivers winding through the mangroves. And while we’ve explored them by boat before, this is the first time we’ll be spending the night there.

So, it’s the "Bintang Bolong Lodge" that’s hosting us—but a *very* "authentic" lodge, if you catch my drift: cabins on the water, yes, but wobbly walkways, flickering lights, and tons of insects of all kinds as soon as night falls (in the room too, yeah, a little 😄), but thankfully, no mosquitoes.

But don’t expect a silent retreat here. We’re right next to a village, and an African village *lives* and *shouts*, especially in the late afternoon 😵.

So, while my sharpshooter king settles by the water to admire the little birds, I’m feeling the urge to test out the local vibe.



As soon as we step out, it starts with a few guys chatting under a sacred tree

(I actually have no idea, but it sells the scene 😏)

And before I know it, I’m spotted: "Hello, hello, photo, photo....." and yeah, a bit of "sweets, sweets," but not even a "money, money" 😄.

Kids are splashing around in the water, and the show begins: some acrobatics,



a photo shoot with multiple models,



a hair-braiding session on a willing head (that’d be me 😄), then the two older girls take charge and whisk us off to a playground.

As usual, I let myself be guided.

One of them spreads a cloth on the sidewalk and tells me to sit on it before lining up a bunch of little ones to my right and left.

Well, apparently, there’s gonna be a show!

But not with a ball—just a flip-flop!!

And then, big throwback to childhood—I got a full demonstration of *dodgeball* 🤾.

Really a great time with great company... that grew *a lot* 🥳. I wonder if the muezzin called them in because, by the end, it felt like every kid in the village had joined us 😏. My fingers still remember it because I had a little one clinging to each hand every time I took three steps 😄.



But the next morning, a different kind of show awaits me: nature waking up. I settle on the dock in the warm, pitch-black night, savoring the real silence under a sliver of a moon. Then the mosque starts singing, almost like a starting signal: roosters launch into their polyphonic serenades, the *pious pious* birds chirp away, howler monkeys in the distance sound the alarm... and the local donkey belts out a big *hee-haw* 😵. The colors are stunning, but not for long because the sky’s still pretty cloudy.



Then the fishermen parade by the dock with their daily catch: tilapia and crabs, from what I saw.

And some of them throw me a funny little comment as they pass, like "Careful, the crocodile’s gonna eat you" 😄.

But as you know, everything in life has an explanation: if the welcome here is so warm, it’s because our visit benefits the whole village.



And that really was the icing on the cake. 🍰

In the land... of Senegambia

Rouquine38 · 2026-01-20

Day 4 in Banjul

Friends, I tell you, ALLAH is great today (and in every sense of the word 😂)



Cool... you're traveling really light! Won’t that fit in carry-on?

In the land... of Senegambia

Rouquine38 · 2026-01-20

The worst part is that my bag/suitcase fits perfectly in the cabin, but they insisted on putting it in the hold 🤦‍♂️.

Oh no! It’s really not cool that they forced you to check it 😢

In the land... of Senegambia

Solene40 · 2026-01-24

Cool... you travel really light! Won’t that fit in a carry-on?

Yes, Isabelle, for the first time, I managed to leave for 15 days with just a "carry-on" sized bag—I was pretty proud of myself. And now I’m even prouder since I ended up surviving with just a handbag for 4 days: thanks TAP 🤲🏽🤲🏼

In the land... of Senegambia

Solene40 · 2026-01-25

After this immersion in Gambian nature, we decide to change things up... and even countries 😜.

Heading to Ziguinchor, in Senegal, in a region called Casamance that a friend had told us about a loooong time ago with stars in their eyes.

But before that, we have to cross the border, and we know it can be quite the "sport"!

Like endless negotiations until you discreetly slip them a little (or big) bill! And there are only 3 land borders over 300 km. We cross our fingers not to spend the whole day there 🤞. Well, at the same time, it can’t be worse than what they go through crossing *our* border, if you catch my drift!

Our first task is to find a car to get to the Gambian border post, and it’s Abdallah who steps up... in his gleaming Golf GTI with 465,500 km on the clock—yes, really!!

With the same engine, he tells us! And honestly, apart from the dashboard flashing everywhere, it went smoothly 😄.



Okay, from here, we just have to go with the flow... again!

While we imagined a crowded road teeming with people, we’re almost alone on the tarmac when Abdallah tells us we’re arriving in 1 minute!!

Then he stops in a village of 10 houses, with a few vendors by the roadside, and says, "Here it is!"

Oh right, we hadn’t noticed—a little house labeled "border police," with only 4 people in line!

Of course, we get a few looks as we step out of the car. So, Charles and Camilla make a comeback and wave at the crowd 😆.

We join the single-file line and wait... less than a minute before an officer comes over and says, "Come with me!"

Uh-oh, that’s not a great sign—being led to a hidden corner 😬!

But we don’t really have a choice, so we go inside the house and walk through several rooms to reach the "boss’s" office, as they say, who’s indeed sitting among piles of papers with all his decorations.

Well, here we are!

Cricri flashes her brightest smile, and Lulu fires up the "joke machine":

The boss: "Hello, how are you?"

Lulu: "Ugh, not great—we’re really sad to leave Gambia."

"Oh really, you liked it?"

"Oh yeah, the people are so nice—we’ll definitely be back."

There you go! Without even having to lie, in 2 minutes, we had our stamps—cooool 🤙.

Then Abdallah tells us to get back in the car. But after a few meters, we hear, "Get out here to go see the military." Oh!

Sure enough, there are 3 soldiers under a "bus shelter."

So you show up not knowing why, greeting them cheerfully with a "Hellooo 😄," and just as they respond, I hear Lulu:

"Oh, your FAMAS is so cool. Reminds me of my military service—I loved shooting with one..." and so on.

Two minutes later, it was over—they just wanted to check our car, apparently 😜.

We get back in the car when Abdallah does it again:

"Get out here and go see the customs officers" (🙄 seriously, isn’t this mess over yet 😄?).

No stamps this time either. They just asked where we were going:

"Oh, it’s really nice there."

"Oh, you know the area? Well, if we run into you in the village, we’ll have a beer together—maybe even several 🍻!"

And the guys laugh. Done! YAY!!! 🤙🍺😆.

It’s 1 PM, 35°C with high humidity—we’re dripping, and ahead of us, a long, deserted road lined with vegetation.

"So, Abdallah?"

"Well, now we have to go 3 kilometers to reach the Senegalese border."

"Uhhh, on foot 😱????"

"No, no, get in—I’m allowed to take you."

Phew 🤦‍♂️😄.

I won’t rehash the skit of our entry into Senegal—several stops too, but no issues. And best of all, no more struggling with my terrible English... since we’re leaving English-speaking Gambia for French-speaking Senegal (yes, thanks to the colonists who split a country in two in 1783).

Too bad our new driver only speaks Wolof 😆. But he was a champion at dodging the craters on the "road" we discovered right after the border!

Because really, the roads here have about as much in common with Gambia’s... as day does with night 😱🤪😄.

In the land... of Senegambia

Montagnard74 · 2026-01-26

It’s always a pleasure to flip through Christelle’s travel journals 😊 But on the other hand, it doesn’t exactly make you want to hit the road with her!! Never a shiny van or a car that isn’t 50 years old! Is it because of the places you’re sharing with us, or do you choose them on purpose? 😜

In the land... of Senegambia

Solene40 · 2026-01-26

I’ll admit, Bruno, a vehicle for me is just to get from point A to point B, and since we don’t plan our routes much, we mostly take what we find 😄. We had a nice car when we arrived in Banjul, but I don’t see the point in telling our friends and family what they see everywhere back home 😅

In the land... of Senegambia

Muriel18 · 2026-01-27

a vehicle for me is just to get from point A to point B

Yeah, but with the vehicles you take, it’s not a sure thing! 😎

In the land... of Senegambia

Solene40 · 2026-01-27

Oh nooo, Muriel, you just gotta trust the "African MacGyver genius"—in Casamance, we had a mechanical issue. The driver stopped, popped the hood, and whacked something in the engine with a hammer, and we were on our way again, no problem 😂.

You just can’t be worried about losing a wheel or a bolt along the way, that’s all 😆.

Here, it’s the philosophy: "what’s meant to happen, happens"!

In the Land... of Senegambia

Kate · 2026-01-28

for the first time, I managed to travel for 15 days with a "carry-on sized" bag

Hi Christelle,

I’m still in Thailand, but I’m mentally teleporting myself to Gambia during my layover between two destinations ;) It was actually after my fourth mishap like yours that I decided to travel light. A carry-on bag and a small backpack are more than enough for me since I get my clothes washed at hotels. I also protest when they try to put our bags in the hold—but it’s useless :mad:

In the land... of Senegambia

Solene40 · 2026-01-28

Hey Kate

I love the idea that you’ve got your feet in Thailand and your head a bit here with us in Africa 😄. Have a great trip—you’ll have to tell us all about it! 😊

In the land... of Senegambia

Holigirl · 2026-01-28

I love your travel journals! So original, in places I’d definitely never set foot—well, not as a first choice anyway 😏

Plus, I learn so much: for me, Bintang was just the Balinese beer...

In the land... of Senegambia

Solene40 · 2026-01-29

And then you learn so much: for me, Bintang was the Balinese beer...

No, but LOL Pascale, we know "Bintang" after 4 trips to Indonesia, but we never made the connection! The AI says there’s no link between the two, but it’s too bad—it would’ve been fun to discover that 😄

In the land... of Senegambia

Solene40 · 2026-01-30

Ziguinchor, I loooove it! 🎭😃



After this border-crossing journey, we arrive in the capital of Casamance, right by the river of the same name.



And even though we hadn’t booked anything, it felt like the Hôtel du Perroquet was waiting for us.



Right away, we understood why we hadn’t seen many birds in Gambia: apparently, they all had a meet-up here 😄! Barely arrived at the hotel, just by looking up, we saw dozens of them perched on a majestic tree, or sometimes in their nests. But not just little birds, no. Cormorants, white herons, red-headed storks, and huge pelicans 🦢. And it’s like this everywhere along the river. Let’s just say we weren’t expecting that in a city of 200,000 people!!



Truth be told, Ziguinchor isn’t exactly "Instagrammable"—it’s very much its own thing—but for our first taste of Casamance and before heading to the coast, we were looking for a truly local vibe. And we definitely found it.











There’s tourism here, sure, but it’s the kind we relate to. The kind that doesn’t see a difference between a Senegalese taxi driver and a French hotel owner. That’s how we met Simon, a 68-year-old Irishman who left Kenya to ride all around Africa on his mega dirt bike 🏍️😲👍!! Such humility and a beautiful mindset that gave us some great lessons in humanity 😊.

It was a really pleasant stop, especially since the locals we met love to joke around, and it’s definitely easier for us in French. Proof with Habib, the adorable moto-taxi driver who’s a big fan of the good Lord (I’m sure nothing bad could happen to me with a sign like that 😂)


In the land... of Senegambia

Solene40 · 2026-02-01

Before leaving the capital of Casamance, a few words about its memorial,



a building that commemorates one of the worst maritime disasters, the sinking of the ship *Le Joola*, which connected Ziguinchor to Dakar and went down in September 2002 off the coast of The Gambia, claiming 1,863 lives (more than the Titanic, yes).



Many of the victims were residents of Ziguinchor. I knew about this terrible tragedy, but I didn’t realize this memorial had been built—and I can tell you, it really hits you in the gut when you understand what it’s about!

Today, the maritime route between Ziguinchor and Dakar still exists, though under very different conditions, of course. The current ship is called *Aline Sitoé Diatta* (named after a historic figure of Casamance resistance) and makes the trip twice a week in 15 hours of sailing.

In the land... of Senegambia

Groschats · 2026-02-04

Oh wow, a travel journal about my second home country...

It's rare—let's make the most of it. You're all honorary Sénégaulois now.

Maangi yaakaar ne biir bi neex oon na rekk 😇

In the land of teranga, I love doing nothing—but I do it well.

In the land... of Senegambia

Solene40 · 2026-02-04

Well, big cats, this is the first time I’ve read Wolof, and I can tell it’s not gonna happen anytime soon that I’ll be practicing it 😄. But welcome! You’re arriving just in time for Kafountine, and I hope you’ve checked out Ziguinchor—you must know it well 😉

In the Land of... Senegambia

Solene40 · 2026-02-04

So, geographically speaking, the logical next stop should have been CAP SKIRRING, but we decided to head to KAFOUNTINE instead—a "dead-end" town we discovered on Google Maps 😵.

And honestly, it's pretty funny to see the reality, which is so different from what we'd imagined!

The first impression is definitely disappointing: a long straight road lined with all kinds of very local little shops, and sandy paths stretching out on either side, leading to what feels like nowhere.

And then, at the very end, there’s the largest port in Casamance. Yes, I’ll admit it—this trip’s theme is *slightly* port-heavy 😄. But the first sight here is mostly a line of trucks, and the first smell? A stench beyond words 🤢🤮. And of course, Lulu and I exchange a look that says, "What on earth are we doing here?" 😅

But that’s often how Africa is. It doesn’t reveal itself right away.

So, like any self-respecting tourists, we head to the beach to discover a flock of colorful boats anchored offshore and along the shore.



And just like in Tanji, the waterfront is a real hive of activity: fishermen, vendors, buyers, and endless haggling over prices.

Behind it all is the big "neighborhood" where fish is dried 🤢🐟. But since we’re a bit squeamish, we opted for a quick look and then left 😅.

Then it’s time to take a deep breath of fresh air while walking along the sea, discovering a completely wild coastline: as far as the eye can see, there’s not a single trace of concrete!! Just casuarina trees, sand, and the ocean, often soaring with flocks of pelicans 🦢.

So we walk in this "alone in the world" atmosphere, splashing in the same waves as back home (but much warmer 😵), and it’s time to grab a bite. But of course, we can’t have it all—no restaurants in sight. Here, you have to look for them... in well-hidden paradises. They’re actually just behind the "dune," along winding paths beneath lush vegetation.



They’re called "campements," and there are plenty of them along this coast: guesthouses made of often round huts, nestled under trees in shady gardens.



Hey, old-timers, does this ring a bell? 😵? 🎶 "Welcome to Galaswinda Darladiladada" 🎶 😅



Sure enough, it’s the same setting. But luckily for us, the vibe is nothing like it 😅. I’ll tell you more soon 😊!


In the land... of Senegambia

Groschats · 2026-02-04

Yeah, I read it, of course... I also know Kafountine well... and its *maquis*...🤪

It’s more toward autumn, but have you seen the *kumpo*? I love it! !

In the land... of Senegambia

Solene40 · 2026-02-07

Nope, big cats, didn't see the Kumpo this time. But I did see it in Benin (well, I don’t know if it’s called the same thing there, but it looks a lot like it 😅). 😊

In the land... of Senegambia

Solene40 · 2026-02-08

We had planned to stay in KAFOUNTINE for a few days, but during this trip, we kept hearing about ABENÉ, a bit further north, just 40 minutes from the Gambian border. And well, fate works in mysterious ways—it was right on our route for the return flight! 😄

That’s how we ended up at Shudyma, with a clientele of the most original mix: - A Gambian couple, - 2 Germans who live in Barcelona, - A French costume designer for films (so cool 😄), - 3 Polish women aged 50, 25, and 2, who live in Cape Verde, and 3 Senegalese kids aged 14 with their teachers, who came for a workshop on "environmental preservation" 🤓. And since the place is tiny, we’d already chatted with everyone by the first afternoon 😄.

But it was time to check out the beach, just 700 meters away, by crossing the local "Rue Sainte Catherine" 🤪: a red dirt road lined with makeshift stalls, where Rastas often hang out watching you pass by 😄.

You’ll find all sorts of small businesses there: a dry cleaner, a barber, a bookseller, and a tailor 😆.





Well, we couldn’t find any carpenters to hire, but it wasn’t for lack of trying!

Right away, our antennas picked up on a super friendly vibe that only got better. After two days, we had a bunch of joking friends: "Oooh, you’re as tanned as a grilled lobster," "So, how’s married life treating you two?" 😏

This place truly embodies the famous "Teranga"—nonstop "you’re welcome here" vibes 😆.

And then you discover the beach. A few fishing boats, just enough to add splashes of color to the landscape,

deserted beaches as far as the eye can see, whether to the right or left, and the height of luxury: 3 or 4 bars right by the water. But forget the Promenade des Anglais—here, it’s mostly ancient parasols and super uncomfortable wooden benches.

But once again, appearances are deceiving—there’s plenty of opportunity for apéro while watching the sun go down just before stuffing ourselves with delicious fresh fish 🤓.



See paradise yet? Well, it’s not over yet! 😄

ABENÉ’s nickname is the "little Jamaica," with lots of Rastas and music everywhere 🤓. Live music concerts, like the Kora performance that welcomed us on our first night,

reggae nights EVERY night in each village bar on rotation, griots going from house to house offering "their serenades," and even locals rehearsing every morning with a Djembé group, welcoming us with open arms even if we were just passing through 🤗.

In the end, we stayed 5 nights in Abené! So for this trip, we definitely prioritized quality over quantity 😄.



But it’s already over, and it’s time to head back to Gambia... via the most adventurous border crossing of our lives! 😄🤓

In the land... of Senegambia

Kate · 2026-02-08

But you can forget the Promenade des Anglais: here it’s mostly antique parasols and really uncomfortable wooden benches.

It’s pretty, it’s got that vintage charm I love ;) And then there’s the white wine, the fish, and the reggae—you’re right to call it paradise!

In the land... of Senegambia

Muriel18 · 2026-02-09

Thanks Christelle for this really refreshing virtual trip 🙂 A bit too "off the beaten path" for me, I must admit... except for the last stop in Abené, which looks super nice and I’m really tempted!

In the land... of Senegambia

Solene40 · 2026-02-09

I’ll admit, girls, I had a real crush on this place—it’s got such great vibes, as our buddy Rasta Manouman would say 😄













To the point where I’m wondering if we haven’t found our future retirement home 😊 there...



But don’t leave just yet, Muriel—there’s still one more stop 😄

Off to...Senegambia

Muriel18 · 2026-02-09

I thought it was over, off to the airport! 😏

VoyageForum — the largest community of French-speaking travellers.