From Nan to Chiang Rai: itinerary ideas? (page 1 of 3)

Hi, just a quick note mainly for Samsong, even if he’s still giving me the silent treatment. I’ve been in Nan since yesterday and... I love it! So thanks, Thierry. It’s exactly the kind of place I’d been dreaming of... Even if communication is a bit tough, it’s not impossible. They don’t even know the most basic English words! Everyone laughs and they’re the first to pull out their phones to... translate. They’re even quicker on the uptake than I am. And then there’s the time I say Nan (pronounced "Nane"). They don’t understand me. After a while (sometimes a long one), they reply: "Ah, Nan?" (pronounced "Nane") 😵🤳😃

The town is exactly how you described it back in 2022. Though I’m surprised to find so many trendy, slightly intellectual "Cafés." Apparently, coffee—excellent everywhere—is king in Nan. It feels like a university town. And it seems pretty lively at night! But for now, I’m going to bed early. I caught a nasty cold, which didn’t stop me from walking 12 km this morning. But I came back to my accommodation by 3 PM (gorgeous and luxurious with top-notch service for 800 baht—even a cute local welcome gift this morning, plus other unexpected touches like a bottle of honey and chrysanthemum flowers for tea. The lady must’ve guessed I was coming down with something yesterday). I thought about going out for dinner but didn’t have the energy. I think I’ve got at least 39°C fever...

Anyway, I’m sending you this message, Thierry, because you mentioned a daily bus to Chiang Rai, so I didn’t look into it. But now it’s a real problem—no buses to Chiang Rai, only taxis. At least 2,500 baht for the cheapest one! I’ll check the bus station directly tomorrow. Online, it’s all taxis, no buses. I’d like to explore the countryside/mountains if I can find an affordable driver. Any ideas for destinations or itineraries? Thanks.

I’ll just go straight to the bus station

In Nan or anywhere else, that’s the best way to get complete and up-to-date info.

Bus Nan-Chiang Rai: route 611, Kor Sahakit Dernrod company. If it no longer exists, the shortest Plan B is to first go to Phayao (1 bus/day, book at the bus station the day before), then from Phayao to Chiang Rai—frequent buses or minivans and a short trip, so no need to book. If you have to spend the night in Phayao, it’s a town with very pleasant lakeside areas (accommodations tried: Huanpak Jumjak GH, great but with steep stairs, around 800-1000 THB, or KwanPhayao Lake House for 700-900 THB—book both if it’s the weekend).

Private driver in Nan: contacts can be found here 18°46'29.93"N 100°46'19.03"E (tourist center) or there 18°46'21.40"N 100°46'19.17"E (T.A.T.), both on Phakong Road running along the east side of Wat Phumin.

For specific sites, this isn’t the province’s strong suit—it’s more about nature and ethnic groups.

Itinerary: overall, the road options don’t allow for a loop.

Route combining countryside and mountains: Highway 1256, which passes near the Doi Phu Kha National Park headquarters before ending in Bo Kluea.

A short story from Nan Province:

It all started one day when I decided to explore the "Nan-ese" countryside. The day before, knowing that public transport rarely covers its roads, I got in touch with a driver with a car—actually, a driver*—that the Nan Tourist Center arranged for me. My request about the exact destination was simple: there wasn’t one. Sensing the driver was thrown off over the phone ("They’re crazy, these farangs!..."), I explained that my goal was just to wander around the countryside to photograph it (the countryside, not the driver!...). Well, I could tell that without any direction, it wasn’t going to work—wandering aimlessly isn’t very Thai (I already knew that, but I figured they’d make an effort for baht...). I quickly glanced at the province map on the wall and finally gave the driver a heading: straight to 010 until Pua, then a right turn at 090 to take route 1256 at a leisurely pace, passing near the headquarters of Doi Phu Kha National Park before ending up in Bo Kluea, then exploring the area around there. Ah, I could hear the driver’s relief. Meet-up at 7 AM at the guesthouse.

The next day, we set off on the winding route 1256, stopping often for photos and chatting with the few locals we met. We passed through Bo Kluea without stopping and kept going deeper into the countryside... until, on a tiny backroad in the middle of nowhere, we crossed a barrier with a sign I only had time to read: "under the royal patronage of the princess So-and-so." "??? Where are we going? What is this?" I asked. "I’m taking you to a Mlabri village. I thought it might interest you." Oh... I remembered that meeting the Mlabri was a dream for many travelers who love "hill tribes," a dream usually unfulfilled since this group is so hard to find—they’re nomadic, avoid outside contact, and their numbers are dwindling (about 235 total on the Thai and Laotian sides of the border, according to Wikipedia). And here I was, an average Songsam, being taken there without even asking. What a driver... But my joy was short-lived—it was too good to be true.

Turns out, it was a village where some Mlabri were gathered to learn sedentarization, which has become necessary due to deforestation. It looked like any other ethnic village, except... they all seemed miserable. Usually, when you show up in a remote village, the kids run away at first, and the adults watch from a distance. But with a little patience and some goofing around to break the ice, the kids eventually come closer—sometimes even swarming you—and the parents relax and lose their shyness. Not this time. We stayed for about two hours: no way to lighten the mood or start a conversation. Nothing. They kept going about their business in the same big communal space as us, but it was like we weren’t there. We had a small meal that the driver had prepared herself. She offered to share with them, but they stayed apart. After a while, feeling out of place and uncomfortable, we went for a walk around the village—same vibe everywhere. Seeing my disappointment, the driver reassured me: "Don’t worry, it’s always like this. It’s not because of you—it’s their culture. Do you want to leave?" "Yes." Before leaving, we did run into a few kids with their two teachers. The teachers, who were regular Thais, chatted with us. They were on a mission here.

Well, there you go—I met the Mlabri. "And?" the curious traveler asks. And... nothing.

On route 1256 (x7):















Mlabri children:

Hey old buddy,

Everything go okay at the airport?

Just so you know, I really liked the mountainous area around Thung Chang, north of the province.

As for cafés, I mentioned them in my travel journal. In the early 2020s, they sprouted like mushrooms all over the country, even in unlikely places. It’s always the same story: one person opens the first one, others see it’s working and follow suit. No business plan, no market research. Still, it’s super handy for folks like us.

Just wanted to mention that I really liked the mountainous area around Thung Chang, north of the province.

The "elephant sector"* is another area I loved—perfect for walking or biking through its very rural surroundings. To really enjoy the beautiful scenery, don’t just do a day trip (even by car) from Nan. Downside: since the super convenient Siam Garden Bungalow in town closed, it seems like only a few scattered resorts are left for accommodation. Despite its remoteness and small size, the town is connected to Bangkok by several comfortable overnight buses.

* Translation of Thung Chang, even though elephants aren’t around there anymore.

Invited to lunch by farmers during a long half-day hike east of Thung Chang:

Thanks Thierry! I’ll check all that out...

A little story from Nan Province:

This happened one day when I decided to explore the "Nan-ese" countryside. The day before, knowing that public transport rarely covers its roads, I contacted a driver with a car—actually, a female driver—that the Nan Tourist Center arranged for me. My request for a specific destination was simple: there wasn’t one. Sensing the driver was thrown off over the phone ("They’re crazy, these farangs!..."), I explained that my goal was just to wander around the countryside to photograph it (the countryside, not the driver!...). Well, I could tell that without any direction, it wasn’t going to work—wandering aimlessly isn’t very Thai (I already knew that, but I figured they’d make an effort for baht...). I quickly checked the province map on the wall and finally gave the driver a direction: head straight to 010 until Pua, then turn right onto 090 to take route 1256 at a leisurely pace, passing near the Doi Phu Kha National Park headquarters before ending up in Bo Kluea, then explore the area around there. Ah, I could hear the driver brighten up. Meet-up tomorrow at 7 AM at the guesthouse.

The next day, we drove along the winding route 1256, stopping often for photos and chats with the few locals we met. We passed through Bo Kluea without stopping and continued deep into the countryside... until, on a tiny backroad at the end of the world, we crossed a barrier with a sign I only had time to read: "under the royal patronage of the princess So-and-so." "???, where are we going? What is this?" I asked. "I’m taking you to a Mlabri village. I thought you might be interested." Wow... I remembered that meeting the Mlabri was a dream for many travelers who love "hill tribes," a dream usually unfulfilled because this group is so hard to find—they’re nomadic, avoid outside contact, and their numbers are dwindling (about 235 total on the Thai and Lao side of the border, according to Wikipedia). And here I was, an average Songsam, being taken there without even asking. What a driver... But my excitement was a little dampened—it was too good to be true.

Turns out, it was a village where some Mlabri were gathered to learn how to settle down, which has become necessary due to deforestation. It looked like any other ethnic village, except... everyone seemed miserable. Usually, when you show up in a remote village, the kids run away at first, and the adults watch from a distance. But with a little patience and some goofing around to break the ice, the kids eventually come closer—sometimes swarming you—and the parents relax and lose their shyness. Not this time. We stayed for about 2 hours: no way to lighten the mood or start a conversation. Nothing. They just went about their business in the same big common room as us, ignoring us. We had a small meal that the driver prepared herself, and she invited them to join us, but they stayed away. After a while, feeling out of place and uncomfortable, we went for a walk around the village—same vibe. Seeing my disappointment, the driver reassured me: "Don’t worry, it’s always like this. It’s not because of you—it’s their culture. Do you want to leave?" "Yes." Before leaving, we did run into a few kids with their two teachers. The teachers chatted with us. They were "normal" Thais on a mission here.

Well, there you go—I met the Mlabri. "And?" the curious traveler asks. And nothing...

On route 1256 (x7):















Mlabri children:



Thanks, but I already re-read that yesterday... And I’m actually really into it. Not the ethnic groups, but the road, the landscapes. And I was just thinking yesterday that all these tribes (at least in India) are tired of tourists visiting them like "curiosities" or even like animals. That wasn’t your intention, but they couldn’t have known that...

Thanks for the photos—they weren’t on the other forum!

For cafés, I mentioned them in my travel journal in progress. In the early 2020s, they sprouted like mushrooms all over the country, including in unlikely places.

What surprised me was the style of all these cafés. Pretty chic, even very chic. You expect to see the whole local intelligentsia show up there.

It’s always the same principle: one person opens the first one, others see it works and do the same. No business plan, no market study. Still, it’s really convenient for people like us.

I know what you mean—it’s the same in India. And often, it’s a complete failure and they close just as fast as they opened

I just checked the map you sent me the link to—I’d zoomed in (Nan area) and printed it—but I can’t find route 1256. I wanted to see if I could pick a destination that would force me to take that road, because I’m not sure the guy will know "route 1256." So if I tell him, "I want to go to this village," he’ll have to take route 1256...

My landlady, always as charming as ever, says she’ll ask her neighbor who has a 4x4 if he’s interested in taking me on a little trip. But as you know, I have to tell him, "I want to go here today, there tomorrow, and over there the day after..." I don’t know if he’ll recognize road names/numbers.

My landlady is super dynamic (and smart and well-educated). She rides a motorbike and has already taken me around the city several times to show me where I can find this or that—even things I don’t need. She just gave me another little gift: a box of fresh fruit that’s naturally sweet but... salty. And with it, a small jar I thought was some kind of jam to go with the fruit... When I tasted it, it was spicy (which I love), but it was *heavily* fish-based!!! I have no idea what it was. I’ll have to dump it in the toilet so she doesn’t find the untouched jar in the trash. She’s 63 and full of energy...

This afternoon, in a shoe store in town, I felt like a little boy with his mom...😉 I have to say, I’m really not in great shape. Fever and exhaustion. I spent the whole morning in bed...

She lent me this road atlas, but it’s not great.

route 1256

In Thai "senthang neung song ha hok" เส้นทาง 1256

sort of jam to go with fruit... When I tried it, it was spicy (which I love), but it was heavily fish-based

The description could match shrimp paste, an ingredient whose raw smell and taste might put off our Western palates and noses, but which, when mixed with other ingredients, is used in many Thai recipes.

I had enlarged and printed the map you sent me a link to (Nan area), but I don’t see route 1256.

It’s not on that map, but it is on the next one (east of Pua).

Map of Nan province (full file so it keeps its details when enlarged):



Cropped view of the area of interest:

The description might match shrimp paste, an ingredient whose raw smell and taste can put off our Western palates and noses, and which, when mixed with other ingredients, is used in many Thai cuisine recipes.

No, it wasn’t shrimp. It was very dark brown, almost black—it really made me think of jam, not a "paste." Maybe it’s a Korean specialty. We were in a Korean shop... for the wealthy... Because there were lots of rare, high-quality products, and I suppose a bit pricey for the average Thai budget...

Map of Nan Province (full file so it keeps its details when enlarged):

Thanks for the map. I’ll check it out tomorrow... I’m heading back to bed

Ask the landlady to take you to karaoke: it’ll be super authentic and absolutely unforgettable!

Ask the landlady to take you to karaoke: it’ll be super authentic and absolutely unforgettable!

Since karaoke spots are often flirting hotspots, and given how much Thai widows are drawn to older foreigners—and how well she’s been looking after him since he arrived—it could definitely be unforgettable, that’s for sure...

Hope we'll get some photos 😛

You mentioned a daily bus to Chiang Rai, so I didn’t look into that detail. Which is no longer a detail but a real problem—no buses to Chiang Rai, only taxis... at least 2,500 baht for the cheapest one...

My reply from 01/21:

Nan-Chiang Rai bus: route 611, Kor Sahakit Dernrod company. If it no longer exists...

Update: as of 01/22/2026, the Nan-Chiang Rai bus still runs daily except on Thursdays*. Departs at 9 AM, 250 baht, arrives at Chiang Rai’s downtown terminal. ~5h30 trip. Buy your ticket the day before. During the first half of the trip, the bus heads straight north to Tha Wang Pha, then turns west onto a road that roughly follows the Laotian border, passing through some beautiful mountain scenery. The second half descends into the plains, heading northwest via Chiang Kham and Thoeng.

*Except on Wednesdays in the opposite direction.

I was just about to drop you a line. I’ve just come back from the night market on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays... I stumbled upon this market tonight by pure chance. I had no idea... What an atmosphere! Nothing like what I experienced last year. This year, I’m really discovering Thailand...

I walked another 15 km through this charming little town, and just as I was heading to the bus terminal—where I got the info—the (small) bus from Chiang Rai to Nan pulled in right as I arrived...

For me, visiting a country isn’t just about seeing museums, temples, or palaces. It’s about experiencing the city itself—the vibe, the general atmosphere, seeing people live their daily lives... I had just as much fun wandering through the streets, checking out all sorts of stalls with pots, tools, and all kinds of odds and ends you don’t see anywhere in France or Europe anymore. It brought back memories of my childhood in the 1950s... And finally, I saw all those spontaneous smiles you kept telling me about last year—where I only saw polite, business-like smiles and a lot of people looking miserable.

Whether some like it or not, the difference is in a city not ruined by tourism...

I’m almost regretting saying I wouldn’t do another travel journal.

My landlady isn’t at all what you might imagine in your fantasies, and neither am I, for that matter. She’s just naturally kind—like me!!!—and takes her role as a host seriously... with everyone, I think. Just look at all the reviews on Booking.com.

She’s not the type to INVITE you for tea and then secretly send her helper to charge you for it after she just OFFERED it to you!!!

Don’t worry, my keyboard’s acting up, and I don’t feel like fixing everything... This isn’t a travel journal...

this charming little town

It’s a provincial capital, though you’d easily forget that when you stay there—it’s so small and charming, and I’d add that car traffic is much lighter than in many other provincial capitals. You won’t see many foreign tourists* because the province’s policy is to do everything possible to avoid becoming like Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai. That’s why they don’t promote it—the locals just want to keep things peaceful. *Though you might see some Thai tourists this weekend.

I’ll almost regret saying I won’t do another travel journal.

You don’t have to make a full one for the whole trip—you could just do one about Nan.

You might want to consider making a little detour to Pua—we stayed there when we visited the northern part of the province.

You might wanna consider making a little detour to Pua—we stayed there when we visited the northern part of the province.

And that’s exactly where Highway 1256 starts...