Need help organizing a trip to Cape Verde during Carnival (page 1 of 2)

Hi everyone, After a year where I’ve worked way too much and with a house under renovation, it’s become essential to take a breather. My contract ends on 01/30, and I’ll try to find a new client for early March, so overall, let’s go somewhere in February! I thought Réunion with the full trek around the Mafate cirque for reconnecting with Nature would be perfect, but since it’s cyclone season, it wasn’t such a great idea. Then came the idea that Southeast Asia could fulfill the peace-and-beach vibe, especially Cambodia with its cultural past, but the flight ticket price and a chat with a friend made me change my mind—and boom, Cape Verde popped up, with Santo Antão for hiking and São Vicente for culture and the beach. So I bought a ticket a week ago, and oh, what a coincidence—it’s during Carnival! Except now, I don’t know if it’s reality or just exhaustion talking, but I feel like I’m making a mess of things. I’ve traveled a lot without even booking the first night, but this time, I pre-booked 2 nights in Mindelo (though one of them ended up canceling itself). But the main issue is that I arrive on Monday, 02/09 at 6 PM and leave on Sunday, 02/22 at 11 AM, and there’s a little hiccup in the logical organization—actually, several hiccups—since I don’t really have any organization right now, and that’s where I need help Because Carnival is in full swing from 02/15 to 02/17, right in the middle of my trip, so the logic of my visit to Santo Antão isn’t clicking for me. Plus, I just checked, and there’s zero accommodation available in Mindelo from 02/15 to 02/18 😕 So I don’t know: should I skip Carnival, should I forget about planning and just wing it once I’m there, should I stay on São Vicente after Carnival (because I read Montaganrd’s trip report, and he made São Vicente sound like a rock !), or should I keep in mind the option of heading to Santiago afterward and buying a return flight to Paris from Praia? I need help 🏴‍☠️

Hi Jeanne. First off, Montagnard isn’t “selling” anything 😉, just sharing his inevitably subjective take. The good news is that (from what I’ve seen) you’ve picked the “right” islands, and chance is taking you to São Vicente during Carnival—which must be something to experience! For logistics, I think Marie (who should pop in soon—she never leaves anyone stranded in Cape Verde) will give you better advice than I can. Personally, for 11 days—especially if you’re tired—I’d stick with the SV/SA combo. There’s so much to do, even more if you’re hiking! Skip Carnival or not? If there’s zero accommodation available, it comes down to how much of an adventurer you are. Not everything’s on booking platforms…

Hello, I’m currently in Cape Verde (Santo Antão). Overall, I agree with Montagnard. It’s best to limit yourself to Santo Antão and São Vicente. As for us, we stayed 15 days on Santo Antão and would’ve happily stayed even longer—this island is stunning, and there are so many spectacular spots for hiking. Worth noting: Ribeira das Patas, Alto Mira, Bordeira (along the ridges, the most spectacular), as well as the Norte, Tarrafal de Monte Trigo, Cha de Igreja to Ponta do Sol along the coast, Janela, Xoxo, Rabo Curto, and the Paul Valley with 3 or 4 hikes to do, including Pico da Cruz, the Cova crater, and the valley loop. Accommodation isn’t an issue—you can find places to stay everywhere. Most lodgings aren’t listed on booking platforms. Yesterday, we even got to see a small Carnival parade in Cabo de Ribeira in the Paul Valley (a rehearsal for the real Carnival). Have a great trip!

São Vicente didn’t leave us with a memorable souvenir—we stopped there on the way to and from Santo Antão. On Santiago, only the Assomada region in the center of the island appealed to us... Tarrafal at a push for 1 or 2 days, but avoid weekends...

So, Cape Verde—good or ... good? 😉

Santo Antao is truly amazing! A natural park all by itself. The relief, the diversity of landscapes, rural life, "natural" villages, the kindness of the locals, a hiker's paradise... with the freedom to go wherever you want without paying an entrance fee!! It's even better than I imagined. For how much longer? There’s a rumor about an airport being built in Ponta Do Sol (only an old abandoned runway remains).

We’re on our way back: we planned 3 nights in Mindelo to cover a possible ferry cancellation and 2 nights in Sal to cover a possible domestic flight cancellation.

PS: We ended the trip with 4 nights at Aldea Panoramica. Our knees are a bit tired 😅, but the best accommodation was Quinta Cochete, isolated in the heart of nature in Ribeira dos Patas 😊

Thanks Jean-Michel for your feedback—it should reassure Jeanne about her choice! 😊 I can’t wait to hear your thoughts on Sal, and to find out if I’m the one ruining everyone’s travel plans… 😅

As for the airport, I think it’s more of a never-ending story—they’ve already tried once… But Marie might know more. Have a great end to your trip!

Thanks to both of you! I know it’s the overwhelm making me doubt. I know I’ll need to let go and go with the flow. I know that unexpected surprises and/or hassles often lead to joy (or not 😄). I know not everything can be planned. Thanks for reminding me of that! I’m following your discussions for ideas and I’ll decide based on how I feel in the moment 🙂

Dang, Djalma, that username rang a bell! And checking my old messages (we all try to get our brains back into travel mode however we can), sure enough, we already swapped tips about destinations over 10 years ago. 😎

Since I traveled alone to Ethiopia (the toughest country I know), Cape Verde—a much easier destination—shouldn’t be a problem for you.

In Mindelo, check out Oia Mindelo on Booking.com. There are plenty of availabilities. In February, we’re staying there now—it’s really nice, with a great little breakfast, and the owner is always around and super friendly. He’s even going to show us around the island...

In Mindelo, check out Oia Mindelo guesthouse on Booking—there are plenty of rooms available in February. We’re staying there now, and it’s really nice, with a great little breakfast. The owner is always around and super friendly; he’s even going to show us around the island...

Thanks Jean-Michel!!!! I just booked for my first night so the owner can help me (I’m gonna cancel my other reservation at a hostel). But no availability at this place during Carnival, though 😅 On Booking, there are only 2 options (and one is totally out of the question for me🙈)

If you book at Oia Mindelo, ask for a room that doesn’t face the street—it’s quieter. The owner picks up guests from the ferry (free) or the airport (1000 escudos) and does the same for the return trip. He also organizes island tours with his car + a stop at a restaurant for 3000 escudos (27 €).

Hi Jeanne!

You made a great choice. The same thing happened to me in 2024—a last-minute trip to Cape Verde that coincided with Carnival season. Honestly, the pre-Carnival vibe is everywhere across the islands. Given your timeframe, yes, you can focus on São Vicente and Santo Antão. It’s the perfect balance of nature and culture with minimal time spent on transport.

I wrote a detailed recap of my trip in Cape Verde, with useful addresses and tips that might help. There’s an article for each island and one specifically about the Mindelo Carnival and the Mandingas.

Have an amazing trip!

Hi Jeanne, I really think that with 13 days, it's best to "stick" to SV and SA—it’s a great combo! It’s true that tourism is booming right now, with hotels popping up left and right every day. Today, the Four Points in Mindelo opened with 216 rooms!! Ughhh! Yesterday, a huge cruise ship was in Mindelo, and tourists were parading along the waterfront nonstop!! Ughhh again!!! And during Carnival, it’s packed to the brim! Check Airbnb too, for example. Still, I don’t think you should stress too much—it might be tough, but I think you’ll find somewhere to stay if you’re not too picky either way. That means being okay with something a little "rough" or, on the flip side, paying a bit more if nothing else is available. On Santo Antão, it’ll be easier to find accommodation anyway. Sure, Mindelo’s Carnival is something else… but in my opinion, it’s not a must-see. Though that’s just my take—I’m not a big fan of crowds and noise. ;O)))

And to answer the others: rumors about a new airport… we hear them, but it’d probably be near Porto Novo. Nothing concrete yet, though. I’m crossing my fingers it never happens. There’s already one in SV, and the ferry ride to SA is part of the fun and adventure (even me saying that, and I get seasick!!! Hahaha!). SA is worth the effort!!! Happy planning, Marie

And here’s our Cape Verde specialist! Hope you're doing well.

Cruise ships in Mindelo? The end is near!! 🏴‍☠️

Cape Verde, a trending destination!

Yes, yesterday we saw hundreds of cruise passengers disembark from a huge ship docked in the port of Mindelo. Impressive! I’d never seen anything like it before. A lot of obese people, others more or less disabled... probably the only way for these folks to travel. They headed to the Belém Tower and the fish market before swarming back to their ship. Right now, there are also a lot of groups—restaurants along the waterfront are often fully booked... Two nights in a row, we got to watch a Carnival rehearsal right near our accommodation! Tomorrow, we’re off to Sal Island before heading home. 😅

I have very little regard (that’s an understatement) for cruises—I see them as the fast food of travel—but that’s not the point here…

On our way back from South Africa, we slept and dined at Casa Café, near Praça Dom Luís, and really enjoyed the food and the atmosphere. Enjoy your last authentic evening—tomorrow, you won’t be disappointed 😏

Thanks everyone! You really helped me out. And have a great end to your vacation, Jean-Michel