Need help organizing a trip to Cape Verde during Carnival

Hi everyone, After a year where I’ve worked way too much and with a house under renovation, it’s become essential to take a breather. My contract ends on 01/30, and I’ll try to find a new client for early March, so overall, let’s go somewhere in February! I thought Réunion with the full trek around the Mafate cirque for reconnecting with Nature would be perfect, but since it’s cyclone season, it wasn’t such a great idea. Then came the idea that Southeast Asia could fulfill the peace-and-beach vibe, especially Cambodia with its cultural past, but the flight ticket price and a chat with a friend made me change my mind—and boom, Cape Verde popped up, with Santo Antão for hiking and São Vicente for culture and the beach. So I bought a ticket a week ago, and oh, what a coincidence—it’s during Carnival! Except now, I don’t know if it’s reality or just exhaustion talking, but I feel like I’m making a mess of things. I’ve traveled a lot without even booking the first night, but this time, I pre-booked 2 nights in Mindelo (though one of them ended up canceling itself). But the main issue is that I arrive on Monday, 02/09 at 6 PM and leave on Sunday, 02/22 at 11 AM, and there’s a little hiccup in the logical organization—actually, several hiccups—since I don’t really have any organization right now, and that’s where I need help Because Carnival is in full swing from 02/15 to 02/17, right in the middle of my trip, so the logic of my visit to Santo Antão isn’t clicking for me. Plus, I just checked, and there’s zero accommodation available in Mindelo from 02/15 to 02/18 😕 So I don’t know: should I skip Carnival, should I forget about planning and just wing it once I’m there, should I stay on São Vicente after Carnival (because I read Montaganrd’s trip report, and he made São Vicente sound like a rock !), or should I keep in mind the option of heading to Santiago afterward and buying a return flight to Paris from Praia? I need help 🏴‍☠️

Hi Jeanne. First off, Montagnard isn’t “selling” anything 😉, just sharing his inevitably subjective take. The good news is that (from what I’ve seen) you’ve picked the “right” islands, and chance is taking you to São Vicente during Carnival—which must be something to experience! For logistics, I think Marie (who should pop in soon—she never leaves anyone stranded in Cape Verde) will give you better advice than I can. Personally, for 11 days—especially if you’re tired—I’d stick with the SV/SA combo. There’s so much to do, even more if you’re hiking! Skip Carnival or not? If there’s zero accommodation available, it comes down to how much of an adventurer you are. Not everything’s on booking platforms…

Hello, I’m currently in Cape Verde (Santo Antão). Overall, I agree with Montagnard. It’s best to limit yourself to Santo Antão and São Vicente. As for us, we stayed 15 days on Santo Antão and would’ve happily stayed even longer—this island is stunning, and there are so many spectacular spots for hiking. Worth noting: Ribeira das Patas, Alto Mira, Bordeira (along the ridges, the most spectacular), as well as the Norte, Tarrafal de Monte Trigo, Cha de Igreja to Ponta do Sol along the coast, Janela, Xoxo, Rabo Curto, and the Paul Valley with 3 or 4 hikes to do, including Pico da Cruz, the Cova crater, and the valley loop. Accommodation isn’t an issue—you can find places to stay everywhere. Most lodgings aren’t listed on booking platforms. Yesterday, we even got to see a small Carnival parade in Cabo de Ribeira in the Paul Valley (a rehearsal for the real Carnival). Have a great trip!

São Vicente didn’t leave us with a memorable souvenir—we stopped there on the way to and from Santo Antão. On Santiago, only the Assomada region in the center of the island appealed to us... Tarrafal at a push for 1 or 2 days, but avoid weekends...

So, Cape Verde—good or ... good? 😉

Santo Antao is truly amazing! A natural park all by itself. The relief, the diversity of landscapes, rural life, "natural" villages, the kindness of the locals, a hiker's paradise... with the freedom to go wherever you want without paying an entrance fee!! It's even better than I imagined. For how much longer? There’s a rumor about an airport being built in Ponta Do Sol (only an old abandoned runway remains).

We’re on our way back: we planned 3 nights in Mindelo to cover a possible ferry cancellation and 2 nights in Sal to cover a possible domestic flight cancellation.

PS: We ended the trip with 4 nights at Aldea Panoramica. Our knees are a bit tired 😅, but the best accommodation was Quinta Cochete, isolated in the heart of nature in Ribeira dos Patas 😊

Thanks Jean-Michel for your feedback—it should reassure Jeanne about her choice! 😊 I can’t wait to hear your thoughts on Sal, and to find out if I’m the one ruining everyone’s travel plans… 😅

As for the airport, I think it’s more of a never-ending story—they’ve already tried once… But Marie might know more. Have a great end to your trip!

Thanks to both of you! I know it’s the overwhelm making me doubt. I know I’ll need to let go and go with the flow. I know that unexpected surprises and/or hassles often lead to joy (or not 😄). I know not everything can be planned. Thanks for reminding me of that! I’m following your discussions for ideas and I’ll decide based on how I feel in the moment 🙂

Dang, Djalma, that username rang a bell! And checking my old messages (we all try to get our brains back into travel mode however we can), sure enough, we already swapped tips about destinations over 10 years ago. 😎

Since I traveled alone to Ethiopia (the toughest country I know), Cape Verde—a much easier destination—shouldn’t be a problem for you.

In Mindelo, check out Oia Mindelo on Booking.com. There are plenty of availabilities. In February, we’re staying there now—it’s really nice, with a great little breakfast, and the owner is always around and super friendly. He’s even going to show us around the island...

In Mindelo, check out Oia Mindelo guesthouse on Booking—there are plenty of rooms available in February. We’re staying there now, and it’s really nice, with a great little breakfast. The owner is always around and super friendly; he’s even going to show us around the island...

Thanks Jean-Michel!!!! I just booked for my first night so the owner can help me (I’m gonna cancel my other reservation at a hostel). But no availability at this place during Carnival, though 😅 On Booking, there are only 2 options (and one is totally out of the question for me🙈)

If you book at Oia Mindelo, ask for a room that doesn’t face the street—it’s quieter. The owner picks up guests from the ferry (free) or the airport (1000 escudos) and does the same for the return trip. He also organizes island tours with his car + a stop at a restaurant for 3000 escudos (27 €).

Hi Jeanne!

You made a great choice. The same thing happened to me in 2024—a last-minute trip to Cape Verde that coincided with Carnival season. Honestly, the pre-Carnival vibe is everywhere across the islands. Given your timeframe, yes, you can focus on São Vicente and Santo Antão. It’s the perfect balance of nature and culture with minimal time spent on transport.

I wrote a detailed recap of my trip in Cape Verde, with useful addresses and tips that might help. There’s an article for each island and one specifically about the Mindelo Carnival and the Mandingas.

Have an amazing trip!

Hi Jeanne, I really think that with 13 days, it's best to "stick" to SV and SA—it’s a great combo! It’s true that tourism is booming right now, with hotels popping up left and right every day. Today, the Four Points in Mindelo opened with 216 rooms!! Ughhh! Yesterday, a huge cruise ship was in Mindelo, and tourists were parading along the waterfront nonstop!! Ughhh again!!! And during Carnival, it’s packed to the brim! Check Airbnb too, for example. Still, I don’t think you should stress too much—it might be tough, but I think you’ll find somewhere to stay if you’re not too picky either way. That means being okay with something a little "rough" or, on the flip side, paying a bit more if nothing else is available. On Santo Antão, it’ll be easier to find accommodation anyway. Sure, Mindelo’s Carnival is something else… but in my opinion, it’s not a must-see. Though that’s just my take—I’m not a big fan of crowds and noise. ;O)))

And to answer the others: rumors about a new airport… we hear them, but it’d probably be near Porto Novo. Nothing concrete yet, though. I’m crossing my fingers it never happens. There’s already one in SV, and the ferry ride to SA is part of the fun and adventure (even me saying that, and I get seasick!!! Hahaha!). SA is worth the effort!!! Happy planning, Marie

And here’s our Cape Verde specialist! Hope you're doing well.

Cruise ships in Mindelo? The end is near!! 🏴‍☠️

Cape Verde, a trending destination!

Yes, yesterday we saw hundreds of cruise passengers disembark from a huge ship docked in the port of Mindelo. Impressive! I’d never seen anything like it before. A lot of obese people, others more or less disabled... probably the only way for these folks to travel. They headed to the Belém Tower and the fish market before swarming back to their ship. Right now, there are also a lot of groups—restaurants along the waterfront are often fully booked... Two nights in a row, we got to watch a Carnival rehearsal right near our accommodation! Tomorrow, we’re off to Sal Island before heading home. 😅

I have very little regard (that’s an understatement) for cruises—I see them as the fast food of travel—but that’s not the point here…

On our way back from South Africa, we slept and dined at Casa Café, near Praça Dom Luís, and really enjoyed the food and the atmosphere. Enjoy your last authentic evening—tomorrow, you won’t be disappointed 😏

Thanks everyone! You really helped me out. And have a great end to your vacation, Jean-Michel

After a late arrival in Sal due to a 5-hour delay with Cabo Verde Airlines, we stayed at "Kleine Schweiz" (Little Switzerland!) or another name: Lafayette! A large, comfortable, and well-equipped building near Espargos in the middle of an arid plain, 2 km from town and only accessible by 4x4. As we walked closer to the "outskirts" during an evening stroll, we came across piles of rubbish, rubble, and dilapidated buildings... Not the best environment.😕 Our friendly hostess took us for an evening by the sea (Murdeira) at a Caribbean pirate-style restaurant with a fun beach show. This morning, collectivos to Santa Maria! Not really disappointed since we kind of expected it. It’s true that back home, there are plenty of fans of La Grande Motte or Palavas-les-Flots... it’s a bit like that but uglier. Still, I struggle to understand why it keeps developing—you see new constructions everywhere. On São Vicente, we saw lots of abandoned hotels and restaurants due to a lack of tourists and water shortages. Here, apparently, that’s not the case. One day in this setting will be enough for us. Our hostess was supposed to take us to see the Blue Eye, but a last-minute issue prevented her. Too bad.

Hello, This discussion interests me because I’m planning to visit Cape Verde and I only speak French. I’m reading the replies to learn more about the islands. Have a great weekend.

In our last four accommodations, it was probably just a coincidence, but all our hosts spoke French fluently. 🙂 PS: Regarding Sal, when I wrote my message, we hadn’t seen everything yet... Even though it’s very touristy like in Santa Maria, part of that long beach is still nice. The architecture isn’t so bad in some areas, and for windsurfing and kite surfing fans, it’s an ideal spot—there’s always wind.

And there goes Jean-Michel, giving in to the siren call of mass tourism and off to enjoy Sal! 😉 Just teasing, of course—Sal *can* have some nice sides, especially its huge beaches. Okay, the architecture didn’t exactly blow me away 😛

No water shortages on Sal (though there are apparently a few outages in peak season), thanks to two seawater desalination plants on the island (like on most of the Cape Verde islands, actually)

Hi there! No worries about the language in Cape Verde—lots of people speak French, which was even taught in schools. Feel free to check out my travel journal for my thoughts on this magical country!

https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10789529;#10789529

Actually, when the collectivo dropped us off in Santa Maria, we walked north toward a small cape past the beach. On our way back, we first saw piles of rubble and some tacky new constructions—what a shock! Then we settled in the only shady spot under a few palm trees. Later in the afternoon, we walked the entire beach (it’s huge) and discovered some pretty nice hotel residences and pleasant neighborhoods. Since we haven’t windsurfed in ages, the beach isn’t really our thing, but it did help us fill a day that would’ve been hard to occupy otherwise—aside from visiting the salt flats (meh) or the windy Blue Eye, which our very friendly hostess (who had already taken us for free in her 4x4 to Murdeira, where we’d had a great evening) showed us. She also picked us up at the restaurant exit in Espargos because no taxi would risk off-roading at night to get to her guesthouse in the middle of nowhere!

Hello Jean-Michel, I arrived yesterday and followed your advice—I’d booked a room with Antonio... who then offered to let me stay at his aunt’s place during Carnival (she lives in the building next door 😊 and is in Dakar right now). So after a relaxed arrival (I basically napped on Mindelo Beach) and today’s island tour with Antonio and a couple of 77-year-old English lovebirds 😍 (and yeah, Bruno, São Vicente *is* a rock, but it’s got a certain charm), I’m heading to Santo Antão tomorrow. I’ll be back on the 16th and the 17th for Fat Tuesday, but since no domestic flights are available, I think I’ll return to Santo Antão on the 18th and come back on the 21st to catch my return flight on the 22nd. I figured I’d head toward Ponto do Sol/Ribeira Grande for "Phase 1" and Tarrafal for "Phase 2." I’ve got the night to decide where I’ll sleep 😅. We’ll see 😊.

Hi! Yes, the tour of Mindelo is worth it... but that's about it. I really liked the oasis part where you feel like you're in southern Morocco. If you want info on hikes in Santo Antão, no problem—we did 8 or 9 in different spots! One was super impressive: Bordeira do Norte starting from Ribeira das Patas. You can stay at Quinta Cochete (one of the most beautiful places and accommodations) or with Suzeth or Amadeus. For some relaxation, Tarrafal de Monte Trigo is really great and always sunny, unlike the eastern part, which is often foggy! Stay at Mar e tranquilidade at the village entrance by the (deserted) beach—great buffet dinners and unlimited punch on the beach terrace starting at 6 PM! Hic... One downside: the showers are cold to save water, but since it's warm, it’s okay... PS: Two spots for easy hikes in green valleys: Paul Valley and Ribeira Grande Valley. Get dropped off at Xoxo (near Vila das Pombas) and hike up to Rabo Curto—several loops possible in each valley.

PS: Correction, Xoxo is in the Ribeira da Torre valley—you get there from Ribeira Grande... You can stay in that town or better yet, at the start of the hike at Casa Xoxo. (But reviews aren’t great for the accommodation 😕). We got a taxi to take us from Ribeira Grande to Casa Xoxo.

From Xoxo: Hike to Rabo Curto—it’s a really beautiful route, and the valley is even more stunning than Paul’s. There are several possible routes once you reach Rabo Curto... The shortest loop involves taking the steep downhill path to the right just as you enter the village (don’t miss it, or it’s an extra 5km).

For the Paul Valley, you can stay at Luz d’Sol in Cidade das Pombas, right at the bottom near the sea—great welcome in French. Or, much better but pricier and often fully booked, at the top of the valley: L’Aldea Panoramica in Cabo de Ribeira. It’s really great (accommodation and meals included)! They also welcome guests in French. The advantage here is that you can "reserve" without leaving a deposit—just fill out the form on their website or call them (in French).

If you stay at the bottom, you can explore the valley in more or less detail. If you stay at L’Aldea (Cabo de Ribeira), you can do round trips: 1. Pico da Cruz 2. Cova Crater Or, even better but tougher: a 1200m elevation gain for the full loop (we did it!). Climb to Pico da Cruz, then take the paved path/road to Cova Crater, and descend back to Cabo de Ribeira... The descent this way is less steep than the other direction!

Still about hiking. If you're staying in Ponta do Sol, there's of course the famous coastal hike to Cruzinha.. We did it the other way around, coming from Cha de Igreja/Cruzinha.. In my opinion, the last part closest to Ponta do Sol is really worth it.. So you can get a taxi to take you to the start of the hike from Ponta do Sol (paved road) and then walk to Fontainhas and Formiguinhas, then come back the same way, which will save you a long taxi ride (or boat!) back if you do the full hike—it goes up and down a lot in both directions... We stayed at Musica do Mar; the accommodation is decent by the sea but close to a bar that's busy until late at night.. so if you're a light sleeper..