Trip to Thailand and Laos (page 1 of 19)

Hello! 🙂

January 2026 Here we go again for new adventures and the pleasure of sharing them with you here! First of all, I’d like to thank everyone who helped me with the preparations, even with some last-minute improvisations just days before departure. Thanks to Montagnard74, Jojoone1, Songsam, Attila, Dennis2, NadegerFERM, and the authors whose travel journals about Laos inspired me (Montagnard74, Muriel18, Mavietongs...).

In this story, written by Richard and illustrated by me, we’ll tell you about the journey of four friends: Catherine, Richard, Nathalie, and Bruno. A reinvented but overall successful trip, filled with discoveries and surprises, the scents of spices and frangipani flowers, (too) spicy food, sunsets, and... one big mess.

The "Gang of Four" has set off again on their long-term travels. After Northern India (Rajasthan) in 2024, then Southern India (Tamil Nadu and Kerala) in 2025, we’ve turned our sights to Southeast Asia this year. The initial plan was to combine a discovery of Laos and Cambodia while allowing ourselves a few days to visit Bangkok, our flight’s arrival point. However, geopolitical tensions and the open conflict between Thailand and Cambodia led us to change our plans. We decided to focus our journey solely on Laos, while still keeping a few days to explore Bangkok and end the trip on Thailand’s beaches. It was still heartbreaking to give up on Cambodia and the chance to see the temples of Angkor, but at the time of our decision, the situation was more than tense, and we didn’t really feel like wandering around a country at war, even if the bombings were limited to border areas.

I'm really curious about traveling by train! 😉

Day 1: Bangkok, immersion in the Thai megacity

Arrived at night. Fatigue and weariness. Two long flights, a significant time difference, and an endless wait to get through airport controls. Sitting in the back of the taxi speeding along the ring roads, we feel like we're floating between dream and reality. A sensation well-known to anyone who travels to the other side of the world. But the price offered by the driver seems reasonable, and with a few words of English and "Google Maps," we arrive without any trouble at our hotel, the Lamphu Three in the very touristy Khao San Road area, though a bit set back along a *khlong* in a very quiet neighborhood.



The temples Wat Arun and Wat Pho

Our base is really lovely. Small, colorful, low-rise houses neatly lined up along the alley by the canal, crossed by pretty lattice bridges. People who seem to be of modest means go about their business without paying much attention to the steady stream of hotel guests and nearby restaurant patrons. This morning, we decided to tackle the must-sees of a Bangkok visit, especially the two major Buddhist temples, Wat Arun and Wat Pho, which are fairly close to each other. To get there, we take one of the many water buses that travel along the city’s great river, the Chao Phraya. It’s Bangkok’s main liquid artery, the one that gives the city its identity.



None of us four knows much about Buddhism—its history, architecture, or spirituality. Starting with a visit to these two famous temples in the capital seems like a great way to get acquainted with this religion that’s so prominent throughout Southeast Asia. Wat Arun towers with its immense 80-meter spire, its *prang*, in the almost blinding sunlight. The stairs to the top are surprisingly steep, making the climb quite tricky. The whole structure, dominated by white and emerald green hues, is decorated with porcelain and seashells. Facades carved from stucco feature grimacing, colorful faces. The temple entrance is guarded by impressive statues with menacing features—these are the Yaksa, the spiritual guardians of the sanctuary. It’s a magical world; we’re in the kingdom of Siam. Bruno and Nathalie seem just as enchanted, but I see Kate sitting on a stone bench, looking annoyed as she fiddles with her new Canon. Panic! She hasn’t mastered all the functions yet, and with one wrong move, she’s disabled her camera. A quick chat with ChatGPT, a few explanatory sentences, and everything’s back in order. The precious image box is working again.









We can continue our discoveries. The ferry takes us to the other side of the river, heading to Wat Pho. More than just a temple, it’s a true religious and educational complex founded by and for the Chakri dynasty, whose sovereigns—all named Rama—still reign today. The site, made up of pavilions of various sizes, features tiered roofs where red dominates. It’s a festival of shapes and colors, but as often happens on this kind of visit, we regret not having a guide to provide precise information about the temple’s history, architecture, and symbolism. So we wander through the sanctuary with our hands behind our backs or phones in action, charmed but without real knowledge. Seeing without understanding—both a frustrating and pleasant sensation.

The highlight of the visit is, of course, discovering the famous Reclining Buddha, 46 meters long and 15 meters high, covered in gold leaf. With a slight smile and a hand resting under its head, it’s in the symbolic posture of Parinirvana, the ultimate moment that ends the cycle of reincarnations. For us, it’s just a colossal statue, but for the faithful mingling with tourists in this vast yet narrow hall, it holds real meaning that we can’t fully grasp.

I’m really excited about traveling by train! 😉

Soon! We only spent 3 days in Bangkok...

Here we go!

I’ve never traveled vicariously this much—especially for this "Gang of 4" trip, a project that’s been disrupted and reshaped by the geopolitical realities of the countries involved.

I was just as excited for this as I was for *Avatar 3*, honestly. I couldn’t wait to read the recap, especially since I’d already gotten a few sneak peeks 😉.

So, I’m diving in to see if I earn my "travel planner" diploma—no pressure or anything!

Well, we’re already on the "Canon" team, so that’s a great start 😎

Little India, Khao San Road

Lunch break before diving into visits to Little India and Chinatown in the afternoon. In a quiet alley, we head to a restaurant recommended by the *Routard*, « Le Sixth ». Young vibe, mostly Western clientele. We order « Pad Thai », the traditional Thai dish—rice noodles, bean sprouts, shrimp, eggs, tofu, all topped with a fish-based sauce. The dish is light and slightly spicy.



Nathalie, ever the Indophile, wants to explore Little India, about 25–30 minutes’ walk from Wat Pho. The heat intensifies in the mid-afternoon, and despite Google Maps directions, we end up going in circles. Finally, we stumble upon a maze of covered streets that seem to signal the Indian quarter. We wander through a labyrinth of stalls and shops selling mostly clothes. Nathalie, hoping to relive the atmosphere and scents of India, is pretty disappointed—so are we, actually. Maybe we missed the real deal. Fatigue starts to set in, along with a bit of weariness. We give up on exploring Chinatown for today and decide to head back to the hotel to rest and recharge before diving into the evening buzz of Khao San Road. Khao San Road isn’t really a neighborhood—just two long parallel streets packed with Bangkok’s nightlife, mostly catering to young Thai and Western crowds. A string of bars with blaring music, massage parlors, clothing and souvenir shops, and street carts selling fried insects to snack on… Great for young backpackers looking for a wild night and new friends, but less appealing for jet-lagged sixty-somethings. Surprisingly, street food stalls are pretty scarce. We do find one, though, and it serves up one of the best Pad Thai I’ve ever tasted. Good, but not enough to win me over to this overly Westernized, bustling nightlife strip.

Well, we're already on team "Canon", not a bad start!

Thanks for your comment. The "Canon" is the new kid on the block—it replaced Kate’s old, heavy (her words) Nikon. It was my Christmas gift. 😉

Day 2: Grand Palace, Samsen Road, Jim Thompson House

A long morning stroll to explore the Grand Palace, the Phra Borom Maha Ratcha Wang, the official residence of the kings of Siam for over 150 years, until the early 20th century. Under a soft light and a clear azure sky, we wandered for nearly two hours through this vast political and religious complex, under the watchful eyes of the colorful Yaksa. Each building, depending on its function and era, features a dominant color with symbolic meaning—blues, yellows, reds, greens. It’s a true explosion of colors and shapes. We didn’t have much info, of course, but we just let ourselves drift along the large inner courtyards planted with fragrant frangipani. We also spent quite a while sitting cross-legged (obviously...) in the Wat Phra Kew hall, admiring the Jade Buddha.

Bruno and I were particularly drawn to the large mural that unfolds its story panel by panel under the covered galleries. It’s the Ramakien, the Thai adaptation of the Indian Ramayana. A real comic strip with exceptionally delicate drawings. It’s hard to follow the story, but Bruno, informed by his experiences in India, recognizes Hanuman, the monkey god. We spot demons, kings, princesses, and war elephants. It’s clearly an epic with strong symbolic and religious significance. The visit comes to an end. We decide to grab a coffee by the Chao Phraya before heading to the Samsen Road neighborhood.







Out of the four of us, Kate is probably the most eager to connect with local life, especially through her photographer’s eye. She loves street scenes, small everyday gestures, portraits—a grandmother at her doorstep, a street food stall, kids playing, a man pulling a cart... It was her idea to visit this neighborhood, far from the hustle of Khao San Road. But surprise! As soon as we got out of our tuk-tuk, the girls decided to treat themselves to a Thai-style foot massage. Okay, Bruno and I went off to find a bar for a beer. The neighborhood is indeed very quiet and peaceful. Small streets with modest houses, street restaurants, local shops. For lunch, we sat at the terrace of a tiny restaurant that served us delicious Thai dishes—not too spicy... but just enough to make our eyes water, noses run, and palates burn.







The day goes on, and the heat gets stronger, but we still have enough energy left to visit the Jim Thompson House, one of the city’s iconic spots. Jim Thompson—a real-life novel character. An American, intelligence agent during World War II, architect, entrepreneur, businessman. He fell in love with Thailand and revived the Thai silk industry. He disappeared in Malaysia under mysterious circumstances—his body was never found. For those interested, here’s a description of this fascinating place that I found online:

The Jim Thompson House isn’t an ordinary house but a collection of traditional Thai dwellings assembled to form a spectacular residence. It consists of six teak houses, some over two hundred years old, brought from different sites (including Ayutthaya) and dismantled then reassembled in Bangkok by Thompson himself in the 1950s. The whole structure is built on stilts, a traditional Thai technique that helps protect against floods and keeps the house cooler.

Very American, right? The houses are nestled in the heart of a lush, leafy park with a refreshing coolness. The guided tour is in English, but my companions and I listen to the commentary with only half an ear. We’re more interested in soaking up the atmosphere of this place, which feels a bit like a museum but still exudes serenity. I think teak wood, with its dark tones and ability to muffle sounds, can create that kind of feeling... We head back to the hotel at the end of the day. The original plan was to spend the evening in Chinatown, but the online administrative formalities for our Laos entry form took up so much time and energy. So, we’ll have a quiet evening with dinner at a restaurant near the hotel, along the khlong. Tomorrow’s our last day in Bangkok before heading to Laos.

Lovely portraits :) (I rarely dare to ask).

These young girls were posing to be photographed (by photographers or their families, during a wedding or other celebration). But otherwise, I’ve crossed that hurdle—I just ask. I only had one refusal in Thailand, none in Laos.

Day 3: Exploring the Khlongs and Thonburi District

« Along the Khlongs » is the name of the small agency run by a Frenchman. Kate had heard about it through her many contacts on "Voyage Forum." For a really affordable price, it offers a discovery of the vast network of canals that wind around the city. We choose the full package: 4 hours of navigation with stops on land and lunch included. We board at 9 AM in a motorized canoe with four other people and a young English-speaking guide. We glide past rows of stilt houses, some very run-down, others brand new. Apparently, this peripheral area of the city is undergoing gentrification, blending precarious populations with wealthier new owners who are turning this space into a vacation spot. The steady hum of the motor, the gentle rocking of the boat, the still-cool air brushing against our faces, and the sun—bright but still gentle—all combine to make this aquatic stroll a delightful moment.







First stop. We dock at a large esplanade with a cluster of colorful buildings. We’re at a Buddhist sanctuary. The guide signals for us to enter the temple. Personally, I’m a bit wary—I fear the usual tourist-trap demonstration. Not at all, in reality. In the presence of a monk busy with a devotee and completely uninterested in us, the young woman explains elements of Buddhist religion and its rituals in a simple and clear way. We learn that depending on the day of the week, Buddha is represented in different postures: sitting in the lotus position, standing with hands stretched forward or clasped at the lower body, lying down... Tradition holds that based on the day of birth, each person has their own Buddha representation. Of course, we all rush to check our day of the week. Mine’s Tuesday Buddha, oh, mine’s Saturday! ...Very funny. The guide then introduces us to some basics of the ritual, asking us to participate. Everyone complies good-naturedly, even if I personally feel a bit ridiculous with my awkward genuflections (not sure if that’s the right term). A few more words from her about the meaning of these beliefs, the search for wisdom. Her sincerity touches me—she’s not just reciting formulas but trying to share her spirituality. Another surprise when it’s time to make an offering to the temple. It’s *her* who gives us the "bahts," as if the donation were included in the tour price.







We reboard and head to a horticultural business specializing in orchid cultivation. Along the way, we meet the other inhabitants of the khlongs: monitor lizards! Monstrous, ugly—just giant lizards! From what I later learned, monitor lizards have increasingly taken over the city. Along the khlongs, in Lumpini Park too. Thais have had to learn to coexist with them. They’re not venomous—these are Malayan monitors, not Komodo dragons—but their bite can be dangerous. After breathing in the scents of the orchids, we make one last stop for lunch at a charming guesthouse with wooden stilt houses. It’s time to chat with our fellow travelers: two girls taking a gap year to explore all of Southeast Asia, a quiet couple who love Asia and long-term travel. The great vibe pushes us to step out of our little group of four. The tour ends, and everyone shakes hands warmly.







We still have a long afternoon ahead before heading to the station in the evening to catch our overnight train to Laos. I suggest the Thonburi district because what I’d read in the guidebooks sounded interesting. Thonburi is vast, and we’re not sure where to go. The rich morning tour left us a bit dazed—we’re in a bit of a lull. We wander aimlessly along the Chao Phraya without a clear plan. A large building that looks like a church catches my eye. There’s our anchor. We head toward it—it’s the Santa Cruz Church, towering over a large esplanade. It’s closed, but we wonder about the presence of such an imposing Catholic monument in a predominantly Buddhist country. We decide to venture deeper into this neighborhood behind the river. What a lovely discovery. We’re actually in a small part of Thonburi, Kudi Chin. Narrow, flower-lined streets, pretty wooden houses, and inscriptions here and there in... Portuguese. It’s exoticism in reverse! The visit to the small local museum at the end of an alley, the Baan Kudichin Museum, answers our questions. The girls stay downstairs for a drink while Bruno and I go upstairs to visit the museum. We learn that a Portuguese community settled here in the 18th century under the protection of the King of Thailand. They put down roots and blended with the Thai population, creating a unique cultural mix that defines this little corner of Bangkok.



But it’s time to head back and prepare for the long overnight journey ahead. One last ferry crossing of the Chao Phraya, and we’re back at the hotel. After three intense but enjoyable days full of discoveries, the tension rises. We need to get ready, organize our departure, not forget anything, stay focused, and already turn our gaze toward Laos...

Hi, This canal tour would’ve been right up my alley. A great idea if I ever make it back to Bangkok. 😕 PS: For info, I’ve already stayed at Lamphu Tree, right by the Khlong—super convenient for catching the boat on the Chao Phraya. I’ve also taken the overnight train to Vientiane, which back then stopped before the border.

Hi Jean-Michel,

I’m following up on your post to add that the company Along The Klongs was founded by Thuan, a very active VF member until 2014. Thuan sold his business to Julien, who was also a VF member at the time, but I can’t remember his username... Richard mentioned that the price was affordable but admitted he didn’t remember well. Personally, I found it wasn’t cheap (45 €/person, including a meal), but in the end, I didn’t regret this charming outing.

Thanks for the info.

Day 4: From Bangkok to Vientiane and Luang Prabang by train

Night train... Arrival by taxi at Krung Thep Aphiwat station, as big as an airport but strangely almost deserted at this late hour. We’re early, so we have plenty of time to pick up our tickets and grab a bite. 9:25 PM, the train is at the platform, and we can board. The seat numbering turned out to be random, so we’re not together. Kate negotiates in English with a mom and her daughter, who very kindly agree to swap seats. Great—now all four of us are in the same compartment.

Off we go on a long journey, a long night since we’re not due to arrive in Vientiane until 9 AM. I love night trains—the feeling of speeding through the darkness, the gentle sway of the carriage, the clickety-clack of the wheels on the tracks, the stops at stations that jolt you awake and the train’s restart that lulls you back to sleep. In short, I slept pretty well, but not everyone did...





Everyone wakes up around 6 AM—the train will soon stop at the border, and we’ll have to get off for immigration checks. Everything goes smoothly, even if it’s a bit chilly on the platform. We set off again toward Vientiane. The train arrives on time, and visas are checked at the station. Welcome to the Lao People’s Democratic Republic. The journey isn’t over yet—we have to change stations. A pickup truck takes us to Vientiane Capital Railway Station, the starting point of the new line connecting Laos to China, which should get us to Luang Prabang in just over two hours. The train is comfortable, quite similar to France’s Intercités. Good, we can catch some more sleep and recharge...

Well, no! At Van Vieng, a horde of tourists boards the carriage in a deafening racket. It’s a group of Chinese travelers—those infamous Chinese tourists feared by other travelers, the Laotians themselves, and pretty much all other Asians. Loud, seemingly oblivious to those around them. And this impression will be confirmed throughout our stay in Luang Prabang, where they’re everywhere. Hard to understand. In my mind, the image of a Chinese person is that of Chang, Tintin’s friend—delicate, generous, extremely polite—or that of Duras’ Lover—cultured, elegant, courteous, refined... Of course, I’m just replacing one stereotype with another, but I wonder. Why is this perception shared by so many travelers and locals? The group effect likely plays a big role. After all, I’m not sure a group of American or French tourists would behave any better. But I’d need to dig deeper, and I don’t want to fall into a form of racism that’s completely out of place in a travel journal.

Finally, we arrive in Luang! We take another pickup truck along a dusty road, almost a dirt track, to our hotel in the city center, the Oudomith Villa & Travel. Check-in, then off to the bank to exchange our money. The Lao kip is so devalued that the four of us end up with literal mountains of bills. We’re millionaires! The long journey that started the night before has left us exhausted, and we walk down Luang Prabang’s main avenue—with its tourists, hotels, and souvenir shops—without much enthusiasm. We need to forget Bangkok and Thailand, find new bearings, soak in the city’s atmosphere—in short, step into Laos.

We needed a spark to shake off our physical exhaustion and regain some energy. And as we turn down a small side street off the main road, we see it. The Mekong! Broad, majestic in its green setting, dotted with boats gliding slowly over its liquid surface. The Mekong—its name alone is charged with dreams and exoticism. And strangely, just saying its name, like a magic spell, makes us feel like we’ve fully arrived in Laos. A new journey begins.





The rest is here

Hi Richard, It looks like the trip was exhausting 🤪. You really wanted to experience the train? Otherwise, why not a flight from Bangkok to Luang Prabang?

You really wanted to experience the train? Otherwise, why not a Bangkok-Luang Prabang flight?

Hi Muriel,

Yes, we were interested in the train experience and wanted to cut down on the number of flights, which were already quite high on this trip. Besides the two round trips from Barcelona to Bangkok with a layover in Doha, we also took a flight from Luang Prabang to Pakse, one from Pakse to Vientiane, and another from Vientiane to Bangkok. Carbon footprint: disastrous. 🏴‍☠️

Well, this train transfer went smoothly in the end! At least from a logistics standpoint.