A little plea for São Nicolau

Easily accessible from Sal or São Vicente, São Nicolau is the forgotten island of the Barlavento group. With two large villages, volcanoes, jagged peaks, lush valleys, and vast rocky expanses, it has nothing to envy its big sister Santo Antão. It’s slipped under travelers’ radar a bit (in January, there were probably fewer than a hundred European tourists on the whole island), and that’s just fine! Accommodations aren’t overrun by groups like in Santo Antão, and connecting with locals is even easier. But don’t come to São Nicolau for wild nightlife—it’s incredibly peaceful here, and on Sundays, it’s total silence!

A little favorite of mine: Pensão Jardim in Ribeira Brava, the capital; Residencial Palice in Queimadas; and especially Pousada d’Anna in Estância de Brás, where the raging sea crashes against the black lava spurs.

Weather-wise, it was chilly this year but perfect for hiking. If you’re up high (like Monte Gordo), dress warmly or wait for spring! Fog gusts can ground you completely. Trails are generally less marked than in Santo Antão; if you’re wary of apps, you can find a 1:50,000 map at the small travel agency in Tarrafal.

Those who enjoy sharing experiences with other travelers over a Strela or two in the evening might feel a bit frustrated on São Nicolau, but the island’s beauty, the resilience of its farmers in extreme conditions, and the kindness of its people make it a fantastic stop for any visitor to Cape Verde!

I completely agree. For my second trip to Cape Verde, I spent most of my stay on São Nicolau, and it’s a raw, authentic gem just the way we love them. Sometimes you just want to preserve it and keep it a secret for yourself ;-). For travelers in search of authenticity and nature, it’s one of the best islands in Cape Verde.

Hi there, We spent 3 weeks in Cape Verde in January, almost exclusively on Santo Antão for hiking. This island, which is ultimately less frequented compared to the others (especially São Vicente and Sal), exceeded my expectations. It’s truly spectacular for its variety of landscapes—jagged peaks, canyons, craters—its rural charm, terraced crops clinging to the edge of cliffs, vertigo-inducing paths carved into the rock faces, and stone houses with living roofs. On its many trails, we barely encountered anyone, except for farmers and their donkeys—a warm and welcoming population. In short, I loved it! If São Nicolau is cut from the same cloth, we’ll be heading back to Cape Verde very soon to visit this island.

Hi Andy, Thanks for sharing your experience. I visited São Nicolau on foot—wow, 11 years ago now! (See my travel journal.) Things must have changed a lot since then... or maybe not so much, after all. ;O) https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=6885032;#6885032

I’ve been thinking about going back one of these days. It’s a real heartstring island, but it’s not the easiest to get to. There aren’t a ton of connections, and if there’s a hiccup with ferries or flights (even on other routes), São Nicolau is one of the first islands to feel the impact. Companies often cut or reduce services to prioritize other islands... so it always feels a bit "risky" unless you’ve got plenty of time or few constraints. But thanks for the reminder that São Nicolau has its own charm and perks! Marie

Hi there, Given the less dramatic terrain and a few photos, it seems like it might not be as worth it as Santo Antão... What do you think?

Hello Given the less imposing terrain and some photos, it seems like it’s not as worth it as Santo Antão... What do you think?

Hello, It’s true that it’s not as breathtaking as Santo Antão, and there aren’t as many big green valleys either. But it definitely has its own charm. More "off the beaten path"! ;O) But I’d say if you’re only going to do one, it should be Santo Antão! ;O)) But am I being objective??!!! hahahaha!!