Back to RUAHA and SELOUS (Southern Tanzania).

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" We’re ALL different, and so are our expectations when it comes to travel or leisure ". There are—without a doubt—as many ways to experience a trip as there are travelers!! For the two of us, it’s only our love of wild nature that guides us to East Africa. The stated goal of this trip was purely wildlife-focused, and NOT about discovering the country or its people.

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Hello everyone,

Previously, I shared the account of a trip/safari in southern Tanzania in June 2024, in the Mikumi and Selous reserves.

This time, still in southern Tanzania, I invite you to join us in Ruaha National Park. (Then, depending on the number of images allowed in my quota, at the end of my story, we’ll return to Selous for the second part of the same trip.)

- This trip/safari took place in November 2022. - Our flight started in Marseille, heading to Addis Ababa, then Dar es Salaam (via Ethiopian Airlines). In Dar, we spent one night at a hotel near the airfield.

-1- During the layover in Addis Ababa. The Airbus A-350 in the early morning mist.



Reminder: Click on each image to enlarge it, if needed. .

From Dar es Salaam, if you want to go by road to Ruaha, it’ll take a very long and tiring day. 🤪

On previous trips, we’ve always taken a bush plane for this route. In this case, it took just over an hour and a half, with two short intermediate stops to drop off passengers at other bush airstrips.

Since I’m also passionate about aviation, I love these flights where you can admire the landscapes from low altitude while sitting right behind the pilot 🙂.

-2- These routes mainly use Cessna 208 Caravans.



At the Msembe airstrip, we’re greeted around 1:30 PM by a guide and a driver from our chosen lodge. They brought a picnic basket, which we enjoy at a nearby picnic area. We’re by the Ruaha River, completely dry—it’s scorching hot.

-3- The first mammals we encounter are a pair of female impalas, accompanied by a young male.



Reminder: Click on the image to view it in larger size. 😉

-4- To save the hippopotamus populations from certain death, rangers had to dig holes in the sand with bulldozers. Fortunately, water is present beneath the sand layer.



-5- This crocodile doesn’t seem to have been accepted as a swimming neighbor by the hippos...



We’ll explore along the river for 2-3 hours before crossing it at a ford toward the southern part of the reserve.

-6- The typical landscape of Ruaha, with its many baobabs.



-7- My buddy the R.L.B. is also here to welcome me.... 🙂 🙂



-8- As well as this little bee-eater... 😎



-9- ...which reminds us of the origin of its name...!



-10- Above a rare waterhole, a fish eagle keeps watch for fish...



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*** Please wait until the end of the story for any questions or to share your own experiences in Ruaha. (Or via PM.) Thanks in advance for keeping this account smooth and enjoyable. 😉

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*** I’m not an ornithologist, but birds are an important and unavoidable part of safari discoveries. You’ll find quite a few in the images of my story. 😎

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As we progressed along our journey...

-11- A Crowned Lapwing.



-12- A Yellow-breasted Bulbul.



-13- A very old baobab hollowed out from being "peeled" by elephants.



-14- The Ruaha Hornbill.



-15- Not easy to spot the Verdict Nightjar.



-16- A juvenile Egyptian Goose.



-17- A Glossy Ibis.



-18- A Black-headed Heron.



-19- A Southern Ground Hornbill.



-20- This Grey-winged Kestrel just caught a rodent... I wondered how the driver managed to spot it (in full backlight) on that high branch while driving??? 😮

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We’re now driving on a narrow, winding track lined with fairly dense bush, not exactly ideal for spotting wildlife... yet the driver slams on the brakes and slowly reverses?!

To our left, it takes us a while to make out, between two bushes about 50 meters away... A lioness and three cubs resting.... 🙂

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-22- You’ll only see two pairs of little eyes in my two photos, but there was indeed the mother and three cubs.



In just a few minutes, the driver showed an impressive ability to spot well-hidden scenes: I thought to myself how lucky we were to be with him!!

We arrive at the only entrance/exit of Ruaha Reserve. To save money, we chose a camp outside the reserve (which avoids paying the overnight stay tax...). During our three previous safari stays in Ruaha, we had “tested” three different lodges or camps. This time, we’re staying at "Tandala tented camp".

-23- This camp is close to the main track coming from Iringa, leading to the reserve entrance.



It has about a dozen canvas bungalows on stilts, with solar hot water and solar lighting. Each bungalow is quite spacious and well laid out. A solid bathroom/toilet is attached to the canvas part. Throughout our stay, we noticed how clean and tidy our “room” was every time we returned.

-24-



This building is the camp’s lounge and bar, where Wi-Fi is available, along with plenty of electrical outlets (powered by a generator) for all the charging you need.

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There was also a small pool, which I didn’t try, but it was always very clean.

But the most interesting thing for nature lovers like us is the camp’s waterhole... This artificial pond is set up (borehole at 80 meters deep) in front of the lounge. You can sit in a chair, with or without a drink, and quietly wait for the local wildlife to arrive. This waterhole has been around for over 10 years, so all the animals in the area know about it. Even though we’re only 15/20 minutes from the (road) entrance of the reserve, there’s no fence between Ruaha’s administrative area and here....

-26- A whole group of greater kudus is there when we arrive.... 🙂



-27- A handsome male...



-28- Every evening (and even at night!!), we’ll see several herds of elephants... in large numbers.



If you’re at the pool or in your bungalow, you can ask the Maasai guard to come and let you know when new animals arrive. A treat we’ve never experienced anywhere else.

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-30- From your chair (if you like), drink in hand (or with your camera...), watching the wildlife. 😏



The owner (Greek) of this lodge seemed a bit cold and distant, but his wife (Italian) is an animal enthusiast who can tell you all sorts of fascinating stories or let you know what came by at night after checking the automatic camera aimed at the waterhole....

We quickly realized we were in a place we’d really enjoy. 😏 😉

To be continued...

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“African nature is Unpredictable”

This first series of images, taken when we arrived in Ruaha, might leave you wanting more? You might think we’re only interested in birds….

Not at all!! We’re not ornithologists. After 40 years of going on safaris from time to time, we’ve learned to be interested in EVERYTHING that comes our way. I know a lot of people go on safari ONLY for the big cats, or swear ONLY by the famous "B.5"…!!!

Of course, we dream—every time—of spotting some of the rarer animals, but for me, EVERYTHING is worth observing or capturing (even a series of images).

For birds, we don’t remember the names (except for a few): it doesn’t matter!! My partner always has a notebook and pen in her pocket and jots down the guide’s notes. When we get home, if there’s any doubt or we forgot to write something down, I check a paper guide, then look it up on "Oiseau.net" to confirm and avoid writing something silly. And if I can’t find it,… I don’t write anything at all!!

It just so happened that during this first morning in Ruaha, we mostly saw birds: that’s the glorious uncertainty of an African safari.

Nothing is set in stone. It’s Nature that decides what she wants to show us, and our guides who help us see what our inexperienced eyes might miss.

By the way, there are no rhinos in Ruaha, so the “B.5” is… off the table!

But here, the overall vibe is quite different from the reserves in northern Tanzania… something indescribable.

(Of course, this isn’t an absolute truth—it’s just my opinion!!)

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Don’t worry, there’ll be a bit of everything in my next update… but only Wild Nature!! 😏 🙂

Puma2A

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…

-31-



The first night went smoothly, and we're ready to set off at sunrise.

-32- Right after leaving the camp, we come across some Impalas enjoying baobab flowers.



We agreed that every day we’d take breakfast and lunch with us, which we’d have at one of the picnic areas in RUAHA.

The entry formalities for the Reserve will be quick each day.

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There are about 8 km between the entrance gate and the Ruaha River. The track leading there, extending from the road coming from Iringa town, is wide and straight, BUT... in terrible condition. I’ve never seen such corrugated roads in all my travels across Africa! I wonder how the vehicles (especially those transporting supplies to the various lodges in the reserve) can withstand this kind of treatment. I was really worried about my camera gear (and my arthritic spine). The authorities managing the park are truly "beyond awful", especially toward their staff and that of the lodges. 😐

I decide, in agreement with the driver, that from now on (morning and evening) we’ll only take the small winding track we used the day before, which forces us to ford the river (no problem since it’s dry) and only exposes us to 3 km of corrugated road.

Near the (only) bridge over the Ruaha River, there are still some water pools in the rocks with lots of birds...

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-35- A pair of African Sacred Ibises.



-36- A good scratching session for this Great Egret.



-37- A pair of African Openbills.



-38- The star of the moment: a Goliath Heron.



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-40- Upstream from the bridge, the dry meanders of the Ruaha River.



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Hello and thanks, Alain, for making my mouth water! We’ll be there starting next week, with 4 nights in Ruaha followed by 4 nights in Nyerere Park. I’m bursting with excitement looking at your beautiful "photos". See you soon! Loïc

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After crossing the bridge, the tracks are "normal", no corrugated iron!! Phew!!

-41- The drought is glaring....



-42-



-43- Even in the early morning, the animals are already seeking shade (We’ll have to adjust for the DSLR corrections!)



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And also, ... in the shade, fast asleep....

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-46- About thirty meters away, his buddy is struggling to stay awake!



-47- (The bed of) the Ruaha River.....



-48- By a trickle of water, a Saddlebill Stork.



We’d been looking for this one after a tip from another guide, but we stumbled upon it at very close range—and it didn’t like that one bit!!

-49- It’s the first time I’ve seen a lion act aggressively... 🤪 🏴‍☠️ 😕



The driver slowly reverses, which eventually calms the lion down. Then we turn around. 😛

-50- Another landscape in the Ruaha reserve.



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We’ll be there starting next week with 4 nights in Ruaha. I’m so excited!

Hang in there, Simon! 😏 For you, at this time of year, the landscape will be very green. Have a great trip and stay, with wonderful discoveries.

We went there too in February 2020. For those who’d like to see Africa in Green... over 26 pages. https://spottingaviation.forumactif.com/t14678-safari-photo-dans-le-sud-de-la-tanzanie-fevrier-2020

The story starts in Selous. The second part is dedicated to Ruaha...

Cheers.

Puma2A

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Why choose the Ruaha Reserve?

After visiting the northern reserves twice in 2008/09, following a story we found on another forum, we decided to try the delights of the southern reserves... Mikumi, Selous, and Ruaha.

Then, we went back once, twice, three times, and this is now our 4th time. We love the wilder nature, the more intimate feel, the small bush camps, and that indescribable atmosphere—a very personal experience. 🙂

That said, Ruaha isn’t all perfect!

- A stay in the southern reserves is more expensive than in the north. Oh well, we’d rather skip other things to be able to return!

- And then there’s the issue of "tsetse flies"!!!!! 🙁 These horrible creatures (also found in Tarangire in the north) have a painful bite that causes swelling and intense itching for 15 days. There’s no effective over-the-counter repellent.

In theory, in reserves where tsetse flies are present, they don’t transmit "sleeping sickness" (which only exists in areas with domestic livestock), but this isn’t 100% certain!

Not everyone gets bitten by tsetse flies, though. It’s all about pheromones released by human skin.

Some people’s skin doesn’t emit the pheromones that attract tsetse flies—lucky them! Others—like me—do. So the bites and itching just keep coming. I once met a young woman who couldn’t control herself and scratched until she bled, tearing the skin on her hands... I manage to control myself, mostly, with practice... These pests can even bite through two layers of clothing!

On the plus side, tsetse flies are very territorial and occupy specific areas (small or large), which guides know well. Just ask to avoid those zones. (Unless you choose to stay at "Mdonia Old River Lodge," which is surrounded by a large tsetse fly zone—something I didn’t know during our first and only stay there.)

Other than that, Ruaha is a wonderful reserve that we love. 😉 😏

More to come soon.

Puma2A

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Hi Alain,

I wonder how I managed to miss the start of this 🤪 travel journal... luckily Kate mentioned it in hers 😏. So, I'm jumping in after catching up! 😎

Hi there, And thank you, Muriel, for stopping by this trip report about Ruaha. There are two spots left in the Toyota 4x4.... 😏 Plus, you’re arriving just in time for what was the most amazing wildlife encounter of the safari in this reserve.

???

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After getting a tip from the driver of another vehicle we crossed paths with, the driving pace picked up ... 😉

And in a huge tree, ... there it is!!!

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-52- Majestically stretched out on its branches ...

-53- It knows full well it's the star of the show ...



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-55- It (he or she?) eventually falls asleep ... must’ve been a rough night.



And we continue our search for natural beauty in Ruaha.

I should mention here that this will be our only encounter with a leopard in Ruaha, as well as in Selous later on. ...

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It's midday, and it's really scorching hot. 😛 😕

-56-



We won’t see much more. The animals are in the shade, sometimes in the middle of thickets. So, we’re heading back to the bridge over the Ruaha River, where we’ll spend some time.

-57- The Goliath Heron is still there...



-58- There’s also a Hippopotamus.



-59-



-60- And a "small" Crocodile... right under the bridge.



We’re heading back to "Tandala Camp". In the late afternoon at the watering hole, in front of the lounge/bar, it’s once again a parade of Elephant groups arriving one after another...

-61-



-62- A fascinating spectacle...



-63- Plus, the background is great for taking photos. 😉 :)



-64- Cheers!



-65-



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There aren’t many people at the camp. Only two other bungalows are occupied.

After dinner outside under the stars, we head back to our room, escorted by a Maasai guard.

Before falling asleep, we heard the movements of pachyderms and the sound of leaves being munched right nearby.

While I was sound asleep, the trumpet-like call of an elephant jolted me out of bed. The trumpeter was right at the foot of our room, next to the stilts… and he had the "amp" cranked up to max!! 🤪

I’d never had a wake-up call like that before. I struggled to get back to sleep after that little episode….

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Hello, And thank you, Muriel, for stopping by this trip report to Ruaha. There are still two spots left in the Toyota 4X4.... 😏 Plus, you’re arriving just in time for what was the most amazing wildlife encounter of the safari in this reserve.

???

Oh cool! So there’s still a spot for me! 😁 Africa and its animals—I’m always up for great photos, thanks Alain! 😊

Oh cool! There’s still a spot for me! 😄

Hi Isabelle, Thanks for stopping by and leaving a little message. No problem—there was still a free spot, but now it’s full. That Toyota was only set up for 4 “visitors”!!

Puma2A

-66- During a break at the bridge over the Ruaha and its restrooms...!! At the wheel Nadhir, next to him Damien, and Joëlle my partner (and the one carrying half the photo gear...) ;)

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This Toyota was only fitted for 4 "visitors"!!

I’d never seen anything like it before. This vehicle really comes in a ton of different configurations!

This vehicle really comes in a multitude of configurations!

This is the classic setup (in 4 or 6/7 seats) you’ll find everywhere in the southern reserves of Tanzania. Depending on the lodges, these safari vehicles are either Toyotas, Land Rovers, or even Marutis (see my other previous report on Mikumi and Selous in 2024).

These vehicles are only used within the reserves, not on open roads. The safari conversion kits usually come from South Africa.

Puma2A

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After that "musical" night, an early morning departure taking the "detour" off the main track.

-67-



You’ll have noticed how changeable the light is!

-68- Here, the sky is quite overcast.



-69- A rare encounter with Grey-crowned Cranes.



-70- In the riverbed, a White-headed Lapwing with its strange yellow wattles, foraging near a damp outcrop.



-71- A Shining Drongo (unfortunately, the light at that moment wasn’t ideal for bringing out the iridescence of its plumage).



We arrived at a tributary of the Ruaha River: this is the bed of the M’donya River. In this steep area, you can see pockets of water—unfortunately, quite dirty.... This group of elephants dug holes in the sand to access filtered water, which is more pleasant for drinking.

-72-



-73- Everyone seems to be enjoying themselves!



-74- There are many young and very young elephants.



-75- We’ve been spotted...!! 😉



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There’s going to be some poultry on the menu tonight...

-76- A group of Common Guineafowl.



The embodiment of fatal beauty—very proud, almost haughty...

-77- Greater Kudu females.



-78- A Southern Ground Hornbill.



Much less made-up, but just as beautiful...

-79- Two female Impalas, sisters or friends: a tender moment in terrible light... (I was so moved to witness this scene!)



In the Impala family, this is the one I prefer...

-80- A young male with horns still straight!!



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-81- A Lappet-faced Vulture taking a foot bath in a Ruaha River pond …



And to think some on safari swear by that silly expression « B. 5 » …. It’s not part of the “Big Five,” yet it’s huge, and above all, what majesty …. !!

-82- A Greater Kudu male.



-83-



-84-



How low the land is …,

-85- … and the branches so high!!



-86- Elephants love baobab bark and peel it endlessly …—many (baobabs) die from it!!



-87- She... has the excuse of needing to feed her little one...



-88- A Senegal Thick-knee.



-89- I think they say: « Zebra crossing »??



-90- A cute little family under the sun’s return (and the heat...)



Note that during departures in the early morning, it was VERY chilly. We gladly used the blanket provided by the guide to protect ourselves from the draft.

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-91-



Honestly knocked out by the ambient heat...

-92- A solitary male....



-93- ...and completely indifferent to everything going on around him!!



-94-



Back at camp, of course, the first thing of interest is checking the activity at the waterhole! I was allowed to position myself against a tree on the side. This let me be at the animals’ eye level (without being in a low-angle shot) and also avoid backlighting.

(Still, the manager asked the Maasai guard to stand close behind me.... 😐)

-95-



You’ll notice the two black scabs on the knees (front legs): it’s a disease affecting giraffes in southern Tanzania. Eventually, they can no longer move or even stand and die.... No scientific solution has been found for this disease yet.

Later that afternoon, we could also observe some Defassa waterbucks:

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-97-



-98-



-99- We also saw a harem of female Greater Kudu, as graceful and... nervous as ever! 🙂



-100- Of course, by late afternoon, the elephant herds eventually showed up too.



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The late A.M. attraction..... so cute! According to the lodge manager, this baby elephant is only 3 or 4 days old.

-101-



-102- Its mother and a big sister are taking care of it



By staying back against a tree, I moved some twigs on the ground, and that really interests a bird that comes to my feet. I have to step back to get it in the picture...?!

-103- A White-fronted bee-eater.



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The next morning, the first encounter is right at the camp exit... I wouldn’t want to run into him inside the camp!!

-104- A big buffalo with a "sinister" look... cleaning its nostrils with its tongue!!



-105-



-106- A beautiful black-backed jackal, well lit (I couldn’t capture its shyer companion)



-107- The access points to the Ruaha River ford were made with an excavator by the rangers.



Already tired early in the morning—still half-asleep?!

-108- These are three adolescent males, probably brothers: their fur ruffs are barely visible.



-109- Sleeping with your nose in buffalo dung... what a plan? Maybe to fight sleep apnea!!!



A young female is staying away from the siblings.

This morning, I asked to try going where recent reports mentioned a sighting of cheetahs (very rare here in Ruaha). It’s quite far in this immense reserve, and it’s going to take us a lot of time.

-110- For a long while, we follow the bends of the Ruaha River (dry, of course).



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-111-



The place we're heading to is called “The Little Serengeti,” but it’s obviously way too hot to coax out a cheetah!!

-112-



In fact, as soon as there’s a tree providing some shade, it’s already squatted!!

-113-



Discovering a gazelle we’ll barely see during the whole trip—one we hadn’t spotted on our recent safaris either :)

-114-Grant’s Gazelle. (which you do find in the Serengeti... one of the cheetahs’ favorite prey!)



Plus, with this heat, whenever a photo subject isn’t super close, we get heat waves distorting the view....

-115- Cape Elands.



-116- This kind of image always reminds me of “Tintin in the Congo”.... ;)



-117- How sweet it is to have your mom right there with you...



Another Grant’s Gazelle, but we won’t see a single cheetah. We’d have needed to be there very early in the morning or late in the afternoon, but it was impossible—this area is way too far from camp.

-118-



-119- More lions!! Adult males this time.



-120- Provocation: ...is he sticking his tongue out at us?!?!



😕 😏 😎

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When we arrived at camp this morning, we were signaled to be discreet—both in speech and movement. It was a pair of rare and particularly shy animals approaching to drink...

-121- A young couple of Guibs harnachés, the male with horns on the right.



-122- Then some female Cobe defassa "accompanied" by Red-billed Oxpeckers.



-123- And a group of female Greater Kudu.



-124- This female Cobe defassa must have heard my camera shutter going off...!



-125- A strange young Elephant comes to drink: strange because it’s solitary and without the slightest tusk???



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The next morning, as we crossed the last hill on the small path through the bush, the Ruaha Plain appeared in the soft light.

-126- Even without seeing any animals, it’s a place where I felt a certain inner "well-being"...!!!



-127- A Blue-cheeked Bee-eater (unless I’m mistaken!) 🙂 😉



A rare bird whose presence surprised our guides...

-128- An Abdim’s Stork (unfortunately far out in the middle of the Ruaha River bed)



-129- A Lilac-breasted Roller 🙂



-130- ...which graciously posed in profile, much to my delight.



A truly beautiful bird, just like its "cousin" the R.L.B. ...

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Since we arrived in Ruaha, we haven’t seen much, and on top of that, they don’t give a slow photographer like me a second’s break.... 🤪

-131- This male Dik-dik granted me 2 seconds... before leaping away!! (Check out those tiny little horns!!)



Yesterday, we saw some Elephants over there, and this morning it was a harem of Impalas.

-132-



-133-



-134- The male spends his time keeping an eye on his “girlfriends.”



-135- This mountain and its surroundings are known for Leopards: during previous safaris in Ruaha, we’d encountered them twice... ... but not this time. Safari isn’t an exact science... 😎



-136- A young male Greater Kudu with his budding horns.



-137- A sister or cousin.



Him too—every day, we often see him darting like an arrow in front of the vehicle!! And climbing just as fast, at the back of a nearby tree. 🤪 😐

-138- This is the one and only shot of a Bush Squirrel during many safaris in East Africa!!!! Thanks to him. 😉



-139- At the beach by the Mwagusi River (a tributary of the Ruaha)



-140- A Candelabra Euphorbia (with sap that’s terribly toxic, even through skin contact)



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The afternoon still begins under crushing heat. We slowly make our way back to camp.

-141-



😏 Encounter with a big, solitary old-timer napping away...!!

-142-



-143- He’s lying on a “bed” of acacia needles, nice and long and pointy...🏴‍☠️ 😉

-144- Eventually, he strikes a pose, to look good for the camera... but he’ll doze off again once we leave.



-145-



.....

During the night, we hear thunder close by, then far off, but not a drop of rain.

-146- This time, as we leave camp, a fleeting glimpse—a harnessed bushbuck... bolting away when it sees us.



-147-



-148- A waterbuck crosses the track in front of us.



-149- An immature martial eagle.



-150- An African pygmy falcon.



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When a puma turns into a hunter-gatherer, you follow it at the pace of... a jackal on a donkey. And you feast. 😉

Hello, And thank you for stopping by this thread.

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This is the last full day we’ll spend in the RUAHA reserve. Tomorrow around noon, we’ll fly off to SELOUS.

-151-



-152- A group of young female Greater Kudu...



We follow the Ruaha River and come across a waterhole larger than any we’ve seen before.

-153- It’s taken over by a huge concentration of birds 😉



-154- According to our guide, these many pelicans have only just arrived!!



There are also egrets, black-headed herons, African sacred ibises, a few great egrets, jabirus, marabous, spoonbills, etc....

-155-



-156- About a hundred meters away, this other waterhole is occupied by hippopotamuses. (The photos can’t capture the smell that lingers there...)



As we continue our search, we witness an unusual scene we’ve never experienced before... 😎

-157- A pair of lions in their “nuptial” phase resting in the shade.



During these periods, for several days, the two mate roughly every 20 minutes. When we arrive, we don’t know how long these two have been together?? In any case, the male wants to go again, and climbs over the female, who wakes up with a start....

-158- She delivers a memorable slap to her companion... accompanied by a terrible roar.



-159- Sheepishly, he’ll take a while to recover!! 🤪



-160- When we arrive at camp, a group of elephants is at the “bar,” with quite a few very young ones. 🙂



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Hi there, another beautiful travel journal. The arid conditions are a change from my trip in January to the northern parks. I should encounter similar conditions to yours during my upcoming fall trip to Tarangire (7 days planned). Best regards.

Hi Didier,

And thanks for your message on this trip report. I’d also wanted to see "Africa in green" once. So I went on a safari in February 2020 in Selous and Ruaha. It’s definitely a whole different vibe. I really enjoyed it. That said, you might see fewer animals since they’ve got water everywhere! If you (or others) are interested, check out the 26-page account of this Tanzanian "green" trip here:

https://spottingaviation.forumactif.com/t14678-safari-photo-dans-le-sud-de-la-tanzanie-fevrier-2020

Cheers,

Puma2A

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...

-161- This is our last sight of the elephants frequenting the waterhole at Tandala Camp near RUAHA.



After a quiet night, still punctuated by the distant rumble of thunderstorms, we leave this camp, which we really liked. We were the last guests at the lodge, which temporarily closes on December 1st (annual closure).

My only regret is the state of the track after passing the entrance gate to the reserve, all the way to the bridge over the Ruaha River. 🙁 🤪 At this time in 2022, the track wasn’t maintained by the Tanzanian Parks authorities—a real disgrace and scandal, not just for park visitors but first and foremost for all the lodge staff and suppliers delivering equipment or food to the lodges inside the RUAHA reserve.

I haven’t had any updates since we left. I can only hope the authorities have woken up to this issue.

-162- A final glimpse of the peeled baobabs of Ruaha...



-163- A few more encounters...



-164- My buddy, the lilac-breasted roller, comes to say goodbye before we leave.



-165- One last striking pose from this greater kudu male...



We arrive at the bush airstrip an hour before our scheduled flight... and yet the plane is already waiting with the other passengers on board!! 😕

You should know that bush flights have pretty unpredictable schedules. Delays are common, but sometimes flights leave well before the scheduled time. And sometimes they get canceled. We’ll experience that a few days later...

-166- The Cessna 208 Caravan from Coastal Aviation on the Msembe airstrip in the RUAHA reserve.



We head to the SELOUS reserve (J. Nyerere National Park), which we’ll reach after an hour and 20 minutes of flight.

-167- Just before landing, we fly over the Rufiji River, which is quite low.



At that time, it was still the old airstrip and the old "terminal" at Mtemere, next to the entrance gate of the SELOUS reserve.

-168- The "waiting room" at Mtemere airstrip (in the background, the rangers' building and the reserve entrance gate).



It’ll take us about an hour on a wide track, then a narrower one through the forest, to reach "Impala Camp". This is a tented lodge with bungalows, a step up from the camp we visited earlier in Ruaha.

-169- Here’s the main building with the dining room and lounge at Impala Camp. From here, there’s a stunning view...



-170- ...of the Rufiji River.



We’d never stayed at this camp during our previous trips or safaris in Selous. We wanted to switch things up, just to see something different (as a camp), and to explore another part of Selous.

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As with Ruaha, this is also our 4th stay in SELOUS.

This reserve was recently renamed "Julius Nyerere National Park," but during our previous stays it was still called « SELOUS », and for me it will always be SELOUS. A couple of years earlier, we had the chance to visit, in this reserve, the place (and the grave) where Frederick Courteney Selous was killed during a clash between his regiment and German troops in January 1917. F.C. Selous was 66 years old at the time, and the country was then called Tanganyika.

This SELOUS reserve is at a lower altitude compared to Ruaha and is closer to the Indian Ocean. As a result, in December 2022... it was even hotter there.

Upon our arrival at "Impala Camp," we took possession of a canvas bungalow on stilts by the river. It was indeed more luxurious. All the bungalows are located under the trees, but ours was unfortunately largely exposed to the sun from early morning until sunset... We struggled to rest because of the heat accumulated by the canvas and the platform. The food and services in general were of a higher standard here. We’re not really used to it, but it was very pleasant, especially since the staff were friendly and smiling. There’s a very clean pool. During the day and at nightfall, we had to be accompanied for movements around the camp by a Maasai guard. We contacted him with a small radio transmitter from the room. Sometimes we had to take detours to reach the restaurant because elephants also enjoyed the vegetation inside the camp. Wake-up was at the desired time, with someone bringing cups of coffee and biscuits... I must admit I really love my morning coffee!!! And I really appreciated it.

There were few people in this lodge at the same time as us.

I won’t describe the days spent in Selous as I did for Ruaha. Instead, I’ll summarize the most memorable animals and birds we encountered, and in particular the events we witnessed. I should warn you that we saw some violent and shocking scenes. That’s nature too.

Here, too, we traveled in a wide-open Toyota 4x4. However, we had a guide who also acted as the driver. We got along very well with him here too.

All the lodges along the Rufiji River offer (if desired) boat safaris, usually in the morning until sunset. We, of course, did one.

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In a previous travel journal, I already showed you what nature looks like in SELOUS. I’ll still remind you with a few introductory images attached:

Selous is mostly forest, sometimes dense, sometimes sparse, with lots of acacias.

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SELOUS is vast, and the lodges hosting visitors are mainly along the Rufiji River and the various lakes or lagoons bordering this waterway. When you go on safari in SELOUS, you’re therefore near water every day, even during the very dry season like in December 2022. And that’s especially the domain of two types of palm trees.

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As for animals, you won’t find rhinoceroses or cheetahs in this reserve. On the other hand, you’ll see tons of giraffes.... 🙂

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During our previous three stays in SELOUS, we encountered lots of gnus, but this time we only saw—just once—four individuals??? 😕

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According to our guide, the gnus, unable to find grass, migrated to areas north of this vast reserve where storms break out every day. The rain quickly brings out tender grass that allows these animals to feed.

I’m starting my account of our visit to SELOUS with an introduction to the birds we encountered. (Not an exhaustive list, of course)...

-177- The scarlet bee-eater.



-178- A pied kingfisher.



-179- The black-headed heron.



-180- The Senegal kingfisher.



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More birds encountered during this stay in SELOUS:

-181- A pair of African Sacred Ibises.



-182- An African Openbill.



-183- A pair of Wattled Lapwings.



-184- A Palm-nut Vulture (a frugivore).



-185- A gathering of African Spoonbills (in the foreground: a White-crowned Lapwing).



-186- Another gathering of Brown-headed Parrots.



Definitely the season for gatherings… 😏

-187- Some Marabou Storks.



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In the roller family

-189- Quite rare: the Lilac-breasted Roller, which didn’t let me get any closer… 😕



-190- The European Roller.



If you need to verify or get info on a species, check here: https://www.oiseaux.net/oiseaux/afrique.html

🙂

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To stay with the Rollers ... And, for the first time, we were able to see my buddy the R.L.B. at the nest ....

-191- As it was leaving its nest, in a hollow tree ...



-192- The Lilac-breasted Roller keeps an eye on us from a nearby branch near the nest entrance.



-193- At the nest entrance, feeding the chicks. You can clearly see the two "long streamers" of its tail.



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In the large family of Bee-eaters, ...

-195- The White-throated Bee-eater.



-196- The White-fronted Bee-eater.



-197- In the middle of a conversation with its neighbor ...!?? 😉



No, actually, because of the heat, they’re trying to cool off by breathing with their beaks open.

Rarer, and even more beautiful ....

-198- The Böhm's Bee-eater.



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-200- A pair of White-faced Whistling Ducks.



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Rest assured, it's not just birds—magnificent as they are—in SELOUS. But let's not forget that a safari is about discovering ALL of wild nature... Birds are an essential part of any safari!

In SELOUS, there are also plenty of mammals, even if the ongoing drought has driven some to areas of the reserve where nourishing grass is a bit more abundant.

First, a scene that really moved us: a touching moment...

-201- ... between this Impala mother and one of her daughters



-202- Our arrival scared off the rest of the family, but this Warthog didn’t want to stop foraging!



We regularly saw Elephants, including in the camp and even right near our bungalow.

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-204- The youngest one’s mud bath.



-205- We almost wished we could be in its place...!?



Temperatures reached 36°C every day... a result of the El Niño phenomenon in the Indian Ocean!!!

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Then, one morning, we witnessed a scene that really "left its mark" on us for a long time. We’re big fans of wild nature, and of course, we knew about and had already seen fights/battles between male Giraffes.

This time, when we arrived, the fight had just taken place, and one of the male combatants was lying on the ground... 🤪

-206- His opponent was still giving him a few more hoof kicks... 😠



-207- The defeated giraffe finally managed to get up partially, which only earned him more horn blows from his opponent.



You’ll notice that the attacker only has one horn. This means each blow is more violent than if the force were spread over two horns!!

Other Giraffes were watching the scene. A brave male approached... pushed the aggressor away by leaning on him...

-208- And the intervenor managed to chase him off, escorting him far away to make sure he didn’t come back.



This intervention really surprised us...

Meanwhile, the injured male on the ground was struggling to get back on his feet. Several times, he managed to lift his hindquarters... but couldn’t get his front legs up...

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We saw him make one last effort, and then... collapse... dead!! It’s likely his heart gave out.

He now lay before us, and many other Giraffes filed past his body, clearly saddened that there was no more "hope"...

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We moved on to other discoveries, but our spirits were dampened. We’d never imagined witnessing a fight to the death... between giraffes.

And we weren’t done with the "harsh" discoveries. Nature is unpredictable.

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It's probably rare to have been able to witness such a scene. I know it's just the laws of nature, but it still moves me.

I know it’s the law of nature, but it still moves me every time.

Yes, Muriel, that scene really stayed with us. Personally, I often think about it... Watching a living being pass away in front of you is always really tough. And as you’ll see in the rest of this report, we weren’t done with the emotions yet!! This kind of "discovery" is actually why I’d advise against going on safari with kids under 15—but that’s just my opinion...

Thanks for your message.

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The next morning, we can see, as expected, that this carcass is bringing "joy" to other species. The body of the Giraffe is covered with Vultures, and in the middle of the image, you can see the head of a Spotted Hyena emerging (...covered in blood too!) Around, patiently, Marabou Storks wait their turn...

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-212- In the distance, other Giraffes seem to be pondering their fate... ?? 😕



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As we leave, we come across another Spotted Hyena, already drooling after catching the scent of the "buffet" from afar.

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-215- Such is life in SELOUS, as in all the reserves of Tanzania... and elsewhere in Africa 🤪



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... In the previous series of images, you may have noticed the presence of vegetation that looks like grass on the ground. However, I previously mentioned that herbivores flee to areas of the reserve where rain falls to find grass. This plant isn't grass: it's a species that only grows in temporarily dried-up areas along the edges of ponds or lagoons. This plant is very indigestible, and no animal is interested in it....

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Fortunately, some scenes really lift the spirits... 😏 🙂

-216- A female impala nursing her young.



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And for us, breakfast is also very welcome.😉 😏 In Selous, there are designated picnic areas. But lodges also have the option and permission to organize these breakfasts or lunches in the wild. And I’ll admit, it’s a real treat that we take advantage of every time we go on safari (if possible). The camps « Impala » and « Lake Manze » have this permission. The guide first does a thorough "check" of the chosen area before stopping and unloading the gear.

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In this case, it was a bit on the luxurious side... but don’t worry: if breakfast is spread out on the vehicle’s hood and we eat standing up, the joy is just the same for us!!

-218- And of course, it’s the perfect opportunity to chat calmly with the guide.



-219- A corner of Lake Manze, where we also had lunch.



-220- Some hippopotamuses that live there permanently.



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Originally, for this stay in Selous, I wanted to alternate between half-day outings—breakfast in the bush and lunch back at camp, then heading out again in the afternoon—and full-day excursions, with lunch in the bush to explore deeper into the reserve.

The extreme heat, which I struggled with, forced me to stick to half-day safaris only... with a midday break for rest!!

-221- A young Defassa waterbuck female looking for some shade, just like me...



The word "majestic" always comes to mind when we encounter them...

-222- A Greater Kudu male...



-223- A Promepic bearded barbet.



-224- Some Helmeted guineafowl.



While we were searching for African wild dogs (my favorite safari animal...)

-225- A lioness perched... looking rather "in a bad mood"!!



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"Bad hair day", but still concerned about her appearance .... 😉

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Off to the side under another bush, a young male. No other lions in sight! Really strange this pair of a young male with a mature female: mother and son?? Brother and sister??

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It's pretty rare to find flowers in Selous, especially at the end of the dry season!!

-228- A "Fireball Lily".



-229- Elephantine, my dear Watson ... 😉



-230- Not even a "hello" ... he (or she?) completely ignored us. 🙁 😉



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We’re crossing an area of dead trees, overrun by this inedible grass. It’s a zone near Lake Manze, which, depending on the time of year, is either temporarily dry or temporarily flooded!!

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The guide spots movement on the ground and approaches... to within 10 meters!

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We spot small birds of prey feasting on another bird in quite a frenzy.

-233- These are Red-headed Falcons, also called Red-necked Falcons.



There seems to be one adult that caught the prey and two juveniles. Notice the reddish-brown nape on the adult on the left (hence the name).

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-235- It’s a "free-for-all"... 🤪 😎



We couldn’t identify the victim bird...?

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One afternoon, we go on a boat excursion/safari on the Rufiji River, leaving from the "Impala Camp".

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After mosquitoes, it’s the animal that causes the most deaths in Africa...

-238- Hippos dreaming of capsizing boats...



-239- Nests of Village Weavers with a "river view"!!



-240- Always solitary, the Goliath Heron.



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Of course, almost all the sandbanks in the river are colonized...

-241- ...by loads of Crocodiles. 🤪



-242- And they’re honestly monstrous!! 😐



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-245- Coexistence?? Between Herons... !!



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A week before us, some acquaintances who also stayed at the Impala Camp were lucky enough to witness a herd of elephants crossing the river during their boat trip... We didn’t get that opportunity, unfortunately.

Safari is unpredictable!! Thankfully, though.

-246- The bench of Egyptian Geese.



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-248- And the classic return to camp!!



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-249- Morning encounter.



-250- Don’t worry: no fight this time!! Just some rest 😏 :)



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