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Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Discussion started by Ticapi on 2026-02-18
248 replies
This thread has been translated into English.
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Ticapi · 2026-02-18
Some trips are born twice.
Ours was supposed to happen in 2020. Everything was ready: the itinerary, the flight tickets, hotel reservations and Machu Picchu, the rental car, dreams of high altitudes and wide-open spaces. And then the world stopped.
Like so many other plans, our trip to Peru was put on hold. Disappointment was followed by a more concrete reality: paperwork, endless back-and-forth, and battles to recover some of the costs we’d already paid.
The years went by. Life moved on, with its shifting priorities and unexpected twists. Rescheduling this trip wasn’t possible until 2025.
The itinerary stayed mostly true to what we’d imagined five years earlier. One major difference, though—in 2020, we’d planned to rent a car and explore the roads completely independently. Most importantly, we hadn’t included the three-day Ausangate trek, due to lack of time.
For 2025, our plans evolved. 4x4 rental prices had skyrocketed, and when we looked at our schedule more closely, we realized quite a few days didn’t actually need a vehicle. So we made a different choice and opted for private drivers instead. A decision we never regretted. Always punctual, thoughtful, and available... they were so much more than just drivers.
All our reservations were made in January, except for the trek, which we booked in February.
Finding reliable drivers on our own was tough, so we asked Laurent from Tout Pérou to handle it for us. Going through Tout Pérou also gave us a discount on the train ride to Aguas Calientes, so Laurent booked those tickets too. He also bought our Machu Picchu entrance tickets at the same price we would’ve paid on the official website. When comparing domestic flight prices, we found it was cheaper to book from Peru, so Laurent took care of those as well.
This time, nothing was going to stop us. Peru was waiting. And we were ready. 🙂
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Ticapi · 2026-02-18
This journal is first and foremost a logbook: our visits, our journeys, our impressions day by day. You won’t find detailed explanations about archaeological sites or the places we visited here. Information on Machu Picchu, Inca sites, or even Arequipa and Cusco is easy to find elsewhere. Here, I’m mostly sharing our experience and photos.
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Ticapi · 2026-02-18
Monday, April 14
Left home at 4:30 PM. Took the bus then the train to Geneva Airport. Once we arrived, we headed to the Iberia counter to pick up our boarding passes. Then we went to the Ibis Hotel, right across from the airport. This hotel is really handy when you’ve got an early flight the next morning.
Tuesday, April 15
Woke up at 3:30 AM, quick breakfast at 4:00, then a ten-minute walk to the airport.
Took off at 7:00 AM for Madrid. We arrived on time and took the metro to terminal S. Our flight to Lima, scheduled for 1:40 PM, was eventually delayed by forty minutes.
We were seated in a row of three seats for the two of us—a real luxury for a long-haul flight. Ten minutes before departure, the flight attendants opened the rear door of the plane. Four police officers boarded with two handcuffed men. The atmosphere shifted immediately. Conversations became quieter, glances were exchanged. The journey began in an unexpected way…
During the flight, we made up for the delay and eventually landed on time in Lima. Went through customs, picked up our luggage, then met our driver at the agreed meet-up point.
It took us almost an hour to reach the Antigua Hotel in the Miraflores district.
We had soup in the garden before heading up to rest in our room, which is on the top floor of this lovely hotel.
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Ticapi · 2026-02-18
Wednesday, April 16
After breakfast, Laurent from Tout Pérou joins us. He takes notes to book a homestay on Amantani Island, then we double-check all the reservations made by Tout Pérou together: the Latam flight tickets, Machu Picchu entrance tickets, train tickets to get there, the on-site guide, as well as the different drivers and stops we want to make with them. He also gives us plenty of tips about taxis, tipping, and more. In short, we spend a good hour with Laurent, who’s really friendly.
Then we go to exchange US dollars for soles and head to the Pacific Ocean shore. We stroll for two hours before returning to the hotel.




The driver arrives at 12:45 PM to take us to the airport. The flight with Latam, above the Peruvian mountains, is stunning. We fly over the peaks and high plateaus almost at their level.


When we arrive in Arequipa, we take a taxi inside the airport grounds to get to the Hotel Casa Arequipa. A little surprise upon arrival: they were expecting us a day earlier and had canceled the reservation. Seeing their mistake, they upgrade us to a superior room with a huge bed.
We settle in and then head into town. There are tons of people—folks have come from far away to attend the Easter processions. We eat at Kao restaurant, which is really good, before heading back to the hotel.

Follow along for the rest: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=11461040;a=11461040
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Rouquine38 · 2026-02-18
Cool Carmen, I'm joining you on the Peruvian roads 😉
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Montagnard74 · 2026-02-18
Here I am!
Well, you’ll see, the travel journals have really dropped in activity since 2020, but don’t worry, the regulars will show up 😉
Anyway, I’m happily jumping in, if only to relive the amazing moments I had there! I’ll be using public transport! 😉
But private drivers aren’t bad either…
You didn’t mention how long the trip is—two months?
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Ticapi · 2026-02-18
There we go, I'm here!
Well, you'll see, the travel journals have really dropped in activity since 2020, but don't worry, the old-timers will show up 😉
Yeah, I noticed. It's too bad because VF used to/is a really useful forum for trip planning.
Anyway, I'm happy to jump in, if only to relive the amazing moments I had there... Mostly using public transport! 😉
But private drivers aren't bad either...
Thanks! 🙂 We had some amazing moments in Peru too.
You didn't mention how long the trip is—two months?
From April 14th to May 10th.
Two months we'll have to wait for retirement for that. 😉
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Ticapi · 2026-02-18
Cool Carmen, I'm joining you on the Peruvian roads 😉
Cool, I'm happy to see some "old-timers" from the forum again.🙂
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Ticapi · 2026-02-18
Thursday, April 17
Breakfast in the little room on the rooftop terrace of the house is a real pleasure. The place is bright and very pleasant.
We leave the hotel at 8:30 AM to arrive at the Santa Catalina Convent when it opens at 9:00 AM. We take the tour with a French-speaking guide. Her explanations are very interesting and help us better understand the history of the convent. After 1 hour and 30 minutes with her, we can still wander around at our leisure in this magnificent place. The colors are beautiful, and the spot is so peaceful. Plus, there are very few people, which is perfect for taking photos.








After this lovely visit, we go for a walk around town. Some churches are closed for Easter preparations.
We have lunch at the Zig Zag restaurant. The grilled meats on the slate, served with their sides, are excellent. We really enjoy it. For dessert, we try the famous queso helado. This milk and cinnamon ice cream is delicious.
We then stroll through the streets toward the covered market. We visit it but find it less charming than the one we discovered in Sucre, Bolivia. We return to the hotel by walking through very lively streets in a popular neighborhood.


At the end of the day, we head back into town to have dinner at the restaurant Chicha por Gastón Acurio. The service is attentive, and the dishes are very good. After leaving the restaurant, we stroll around a bit more. Like the night before, there are lots of people—folks moving from one church to another to pray.
You can find the rest of the travel journal here: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=11461211;a=11461211
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Montagnard74 · 2026-02-18
Small clarification—I don’t know if you got the info, but travel journals are now "limited" to a max of 300 photos. Since I know you’re generous with your pics, you’ll have to "manage" 😉
We also opted for a French-speaking guided tour of the convent. The history of this site is amazing! !
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Rouquine38 · 2026-02-18
This convent is stunning—we had it almost to ourselves too... I must have almost the same photos! 😊
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
FamilleUS · 2026-02-18
Chicha and Zig-Zag, this travel journal is off to a great start... I'm hopping on the colectivo now!
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Muriel18 · 2026-02-19
Hello Carmen
Even if Peru isn’t a priority for me (at least not in the short term), I’m happily jumping on board! 😎
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Larri · 2026-02-19
Hi there, and thanks for this travel journal—I’ll be following it with pleasure since I’m heading to Peru in June.
Did you stay at the Hotel Antigua in Miraflores, which we’ve also booked? What did you think of it? Did you plan your trip with ToutPerou?
Also, I’ll be jotting down your restaurant and sightseeing tips to make good use of them.
Best,
Larri
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Ticapi · 2026-02-20
Chicha and Zig-Zag, this travel journal is off to a great start...
It’s one of the countries where we ate the best. Plus, the presentation of the dishes was always stunning. We treated ourselves by choosing great restaurants.
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Ticapi · 2026-02-20
Hello Carmen
Hi Muriel,
Even if Peru isn’t a priority for me (at least not in the short term)
You’re wrong... 😉 We loved Peru.
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Muriel18 · 2026-02-20
You're wrong...😉
Maybe reading your travel journal will change my mind 😉.
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Ticapi · 2026-02-20
Hi Jean Claude,
I’m heading to Peru in June.
That’s a great idea! 🙂
Did you stay at Hotel Antigua in Miraflores, which we’ve also booked? What did you think of it?
We loved the colonial decor and style of the hotel, the tranquility, and its little garden. Breakfast was hearty. We had a room on the top floor—it was huge with an enormous bed, and everything was spotless. If you don’t mind climbing stairs, I’d recommend asking for a room on the upper floors. The hotel is well-located for walking to the oceanfront.
Did you plan your trip with ToutPerou?
I planned the trip myself—stops, visits, itinerary, etc. Laurent just gave me a few tips for the Titicaca part. However, Laurent handled booking the drivers, train tickets, Machu Picchu tickets, the guide at Machu Picchu, and domestic flights.
By going through Laurent, we saved on airfare and train tickets. The price for drivers was very reasonable. We paid each driver at the end of the trip. The Machu Picchu tickets were the same price as if we’d bought them ourselves on the official site.
We have no regrets—Laurent was very responsive, especially when our Cusco-Lima flight was delayed, and he found us an earlier departure.
I just realized I didn’t mention ToutPerou in the intro of my travel journal or that Laurent came to see us at the hotel in Lima. Thanks for asking—I’ll update those posts.
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Ticapi · 2026-02-20
Friday, April 18
This morning, we set off to explore the Yanahuara district. We cross the Chili River and pass by the Recoleta convent. The church is open, so we pop in for a quick look.
It’s a climb to reach Yanahuara Plaza. From this square, we overlook downtown Arequipa. There are lots of people—buses are dropping off dozens of Peruvians who’ve come to Arequipa for Easter celebrations.

We head back down to the center via a different route and go for lunch at 13 Monjas restaurant. As in previous days, the dishes are delicious and beautifully presented.
Around 4 p.m., we make our way to Plaza de Armas to settle in at a rooftop terrace for a Pisco Sour. The view of the cathedral and the Misti volcano is incredible, and the shifting light as the sun sets is stunning.



A group of young Belgians arrives on the terrace, completely out of breath. They’re suffering from altitude sickness. The young woman seems particularly affected. We wonder how they’ll manage for the rest of their trip. They’re staying two nights in Arequipa, just arrived from Belgium, and are planning to head straight to Lake Titicaca afterward.🏴☠️
We then head back to eat at Kao restaurant, recommended by our hotel staff.
For the rest of the travel journal: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=11461228;a=11461228
Some trips are born twice - Peru April-May 2025
Larri · 2026-02-20
Hi there,
Thanks for your reply.
We’d also wanted to go to Peru in 2020, but an honest tour operator advised us against that time of year (February). So we switched to Guatemala and didn’t regret the choice at all (check out our travel journal on voyageforum).
We’re taking the same approach as you for organizing our trip to Peru: drivers, trains, flights (which are actually cheaper when you book the tickets in Peru), and guides were all arranged through Tout Pérou.
We’re also working with Laurent. Your experience puts our minds at ease. Unfortunately, Laurent will be in France during our stay, but I’m sure his replacements will do a good job.
I’ll be following your trip with interest and jotting down your great spots!
It really does seem like you’ve gone all out on restaurants. What’s the average price of the places you’ve tried in Arequipa and elsewhere?
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Ticapi · 2026-02-20
What was the average price of the restaurants you visited in Arequipa and elsewhere?
Sorry, I don’t really remember. I think a good meal cost around 15 € per person. That was only in Lima, Arequipa, Cusco, and Ollantaytambo. In any case, the value for money was excellent compared to restaurants in Europe.
Peru is renowned for its outstanding cuisine, and we really treated ourselves. It was our first trip “to the other side of the world” after Covid. Between 2021 and 2024, we stayed in Europe, which allowed us to take some wonderful trips too, since we didn’t want to travel without our old dog. Anyway, we didn’t really watch our spending in restaurants.
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Ticapi · 2026-02-20
Saturday, April 19
This morning, the driver picks us up at 8:30. Traffic is heavy leaving the city, and the national road is packed with trucks.
We gain altitude and cross high plateaus where we spot llamas, alpacas, and vicuñas. Rufo, our driver, also points out a few guanacos—it’s the first time we’ve seen them. We stop at Laguna Pampa Blanca to take some photos. A few pink flamingos are wading in the water, and the landscape reminds us of the Sud Lípez in Bolivia.





At 4,000 meters above sea level, we take a break at a restaurant to drink coca leaf tea and other herbal infusions. According to Rufo, this drink is effective against altitude sickness. We don’t feel any effects from the altitude at all—we’re doing just fine.
We arrive at the Mirador de los Andes, located at 4,910 meters. From this viewpoint, you can admire several volcanoes. Unfortunately, the clouds are thick and prevent us from getting a good view of them.


We then head down toward Chivay and, shortly after, stop at a small restaurant where they raise trout. Rufo seems to know the owner. The place isn’t touristy at all, and the garden is really pleasant. The portions are huge—the trout comes with rice and fries.


Since we lost a lot of time with photo stops, Rufo—who has to return to Arequipa and make the trip again tomorrow—arranges for another driver to take us to Cabanaconde, located at 3,296 meters above sea level. Along the way, we spot a few condors returning to their nests on the canyon walls.
In Cabanaconde, we check in at Hotel Casa de Santiago and take a walk to the Mirador Achachihua, where the view of the canyon and the Sangalle oasis is stunning. We end the day with a pizza at Pachamama restaurant.

Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Ticapi · 2026-02-21
Sunday, April 20
We have breakfast at 6:30 AM and set off at 7:00 AM for our two-day hike. The descent along the trail to Sangalle is very steep. After about 30 minutes, I slip on the small pebbles, lose my balance, and slam my lower back hard against a large rock. The pain takes my breath away, and I think our trip to Peru is over.
After a few moments, with Benoît’s help, I manage to stand up. My back is really painful, but I decide to keep going.
The view of the Sangalle oasis and the orange rocks is stunning. At this time of year, there are flowers everywhere. Some rock faces are beautiful, almost like living paintings. After four hours of walking—including photo stops and my little accident—we finally reach Sangalle. It took us much longer than planned, but I didn’t want to risk another fall. We take a break to rest before starting the climb toward Malata and Cosñirhua. From Cosñirhua, we descend back to San Juan de Chuccho, arriving after seven hours of hiking.









We booked a room at Colibri Lodge. The room is lovely, the bed huge, the shower water hot, and we have a small balcony overlooking the garden with its avocado and mango trees. We take a short walk around the village, but we don’t linger too long because it starts raining. The family running Colibri Lodge is adorable, and the evening meal is excellent.
Even though the mattress is good quality, I hold back a scream when I lie down. The pain is sharp, and I don’t know how to move without suffering. We’re far from everything, and seeing a doctor would be complicated.
(Looking back, I think I was right not to see a doctor in Peru. The exams we had after returning to Switzerland revealed several injuries: two fractured apophyses and a torn fibrous ring in my spine, a cracked floating rib, and internal bruising. If I’d known about these results during the trip, I probably would’ve given up on some of our hikes.)
Some journeys are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Ticapi · 2026-02-21
Monday, April 21st
The night was tough—I couldn’t lie on my back or my right side. But I finally found a position that let me sleep. The alarm goes off at 4:40 AM, and I struggle to get out of bed. I tell myself the canyon climb is going to be rough. For breakfast, the lady makes us pancakes over a wood fire and serves avocados with crackers.
We leave Colibri Lodge at 5:30 AM, guided by our headlamps. I took an anti-inflammatory for my back and realize I feel better standing up. The pain is less sharp when I’m walking.
After 35 minutes of descent, we reach the bridge crossing the Colca River. We immediately start the 1,200-meter ascent. Climbing turns out to be easier than going down. A young condor flies nearby but quickly moves away. We pass the first tourists as we near the top.







Hiking this trail in the opposite direction of the tour operators coming from Arequipa is a great way to avoid crowds. Plus, the view of the canyon is more stunning from the Sangalle side—you get to enjoy it more on the way down, with the colorful cliffs and oasis right in front of you.
After four hours of walking, including plenty of photo stops, we reach Mirador San Miguel. A large tour group and two guides are getting ready to start their descent. We still have 30 minutes to go to reach Cabanaconde. Along the way, we stop at the small Juanita Museum. The visit is free and gives us a chance to use the restrooms, but there’s really not much to see.
We grab a plate of pasta at Pachamama restaurant before heading back to Casa Santiago. We take a nice hot shower and spend the rest of the afternoon reading. A storm rolls in, followed by a power outage. By evening, the electricity still isn’t back. We go out to grab some supplies for a picnic and eat in the breakfast room by candlelight, just like other travelers staying at the hotel. The vibe is cozy, and the conversations with fellow travelers are great.

The view of part of the village from the rooftop terrace at Casa Santiago.

You can find the rest of the travel journal here: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=11461768;a=11461768
Some journeys are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Jojoone1 · 2026-02-21
Kudos for your courage and perseverance. For a year now, everyone’s been struggling with their travel journals, and I’m encouraging the next travelers to be extra careful 🙂
I’m thrilled to discover the breathtaking and spectacular views and horizons you’re sharing with us.
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Montagnard74 · 2026-02-21
Bravo for your courage and perseverance. For a year now, everyone’s been struggling with their travel journals, and I encourage the next travelers to be extra careful 🙂
I’m even wondering if I didn’t start the trend in Marrakech? 🤪
Do you think our advanced ages 😉 might be partly to blame?
If so, you’re off the hook with your latest travel journal in progress 😄
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Muriel18 · 2026-02-22
Wow Carmen, what a fall! And what courage to keep going!
I hope you don’t have any lasting effects.
We immediately start the 1,200-meter ascent.
That’s way too much for me... even without falling the day before 😏 (though the landscapes do seem worth it).
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Rouquine38 · 2026-02-22
Wow! 1,200m of elevation gain with a wrecked back and altitude—way to go, Carmen! 👏
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Gaura · 2026-02-22
It's magnificent, and what a beautiful performance after such a severe fall!
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Ticapi · 2026-02-24
Thanks to everyone for your messages.
The climb up the canyon turned out to be easier than the descent, and there’s always something to see along the way. April is actually the perfect time to enjoy the blooming flowers in the canyon.
We’re used to hiking in the mountains, and high altitude hasn’t been an issue for us—at least, not so far.
For my back, I truly believe motivation made all the difference, and as I mentioned before, I felt much better standing and walking. Later, at Lake Titicaca, I tried a somewhat unconventional “treatment” to ease the pain, which let me fully enjoy the rest of the trip. But I won’t be covering that in the travel journal.😅
More to come tomorrow.😊
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Max68 · 2026-02-24
Hello Carmen,
It’s a pleasure to catch up on your story—it’s enjoyable to follow despite your accident.
I hope there won’t be any lasting effects.
Thanks for taking us along on your journey! 😊😊
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Jojoone1 · 2026-02-24
Readers who tend to mix up Ticapi, Muriel, and Rouquine are asked if two of them could change their profile pictures.
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Montagnard74 · 2026-02-24
Readers tend to mix up Ticapi, Muriel, and Rouquine, so two of them are asked to change their profile pictures.
But leopard print is *so* in right now!
P.S.: Leopard or cheetah, for fashion, there’s no difference. I’m just saying this for those who’d want to hurt flies
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Montagnard74 · 2026-02-24
At Lake Titicaca, I went through a somewhat unconventional "treatment" to reduce the pain, which let me fully enjoy the trip. But I won’t be covering that in the travel journal.😅
Sounds like a coca leaf cure! 🤪
Or maybe muña? 🤔
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Rouquine38 · 2026-02-24
Since readers tend to mix up Ticapi, Muriel, and Rouquine, two of them are being asked to change their profile pictures.
Personally, I don’t really feel like changing my avatar... and like Bruno said, leopard print is in style this year 😉
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Ticapi · 2026-02-24
Smells like a coca leaf cure! Crazy
Or maybe muña 🤫
No, not tea or other herbal preparations, nor meds... You’ll never guess... no point trying.😉
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Ticapi · 2026-02-24
Welcome JF! :)
You’ll have to tell us all about your trip to Iceland.
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Montagnard74 · 2026-02-24
Smells like a coca leaf cure!
Or maybe muña? 🤔
No, not tea or other herbal concoctions, and definitely no meds... You’ll never guess... no point trying! 😄
I at least tried the local remedy...
But I wouldn’t push it 😕
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
VallM17 · 2026-02-25
Hi Carmen,
I’ve finally caught up—writing to you live from the Paris-La Rochelle train 😉
It would’ve been a shame to skip that hike in the canyon. Your photos are stunning, and I can only imagine how much more beautiful it is in person! I also really love the view of the volcano with the cathedral in the foreground.
That said, I cringed again reading about your fall in Bangkok 🏴☠️ After taking a few tumbles myself, I now hike with poles on long or tough trails, and ever since I’ve embraced my lack of coordination (and my age 😛), I’ve fallen less !
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Ticapi · 2026-02-25
Tuesday, April 22
Marco, our driver, picks us up at 7:30 AM. We stop at various viewpoints to watch the condors. At the Cruz del Condor lookout, around twenty of them soar above us. We stay for 50 minutes—the show is amazing.




Next stop at the Cruz del Cura lookout, where we see a few more condors. Some fly really close to us—it’s incredibly impressive.

Shortly after the Antahuilque lookout, we take a dirt road to the village of Lari. After yesterday’s storm, the road is in bad shape, but Marco handles his vehicle perfectly and gets through the tough spots without getting stuck.

We ask Marco to stop at a small shop to buy our midday picnic. We offer to share our meal with him, and he happily accepts. We eat in the parking lot, at the starting point for the hike to the Chimpa fortress. Marco tells us he’ll rest in the car while we do the hike.
After an hour of climbing, we reach the Chimpa fortress. The view of the canyon and the volcanoes is stunning—the colors are unbelievably sharp.

The Chimpa fortress


The start of the Colca Canyon from the Chimpa fortress

Back at the parking lot, Marco suggests we stop at the Chacapi hot springs near Yanque before heading to the Miskiwasi Bed & Breakfast. The warm water feels great on my back.
After the hot springs, we visit the village of Yanque. We had a fantastic day with Marco—he’s really funny and went out of his way to communicate with us.
At the Miskiwasi Bed & Breakfast, we meet a French couple who stayed at the same hotel as us in Arequipa. We decide to eat together and have a lovely evening.
For the rest of the travel journal, click here: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=11461824;a=11461824
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Ticapi · 2026-02-25
Hi Virginie,
After taking a few tumbles myself, I now walk with poles
I actually had trekking poles and hiking shoes with good soles too. 🙁
I can imagine it’s even more beautiful in person
Yes, it really is even more beautiful. Photos don’t do justice to the grandeur of the canyon or the blooming that was everywhere at that time of year.
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Ticapi · 2026-02-26
Wednesday, April 23
At 6:30 AM, Joel, our driver, comes to pick us up. A long day of driving awaits us, punctuated by several visits we’re absolutely determined to make. We take the same road back toward the canyon as we did on the way there, but this time in the opposite direction. After the pass at 4,910 meters above sea level, we head toward Puno.



The famous Misti volcano
We stop at the Bosque de Piedras and go for a walk in this maze of rock formations. We feel tiny among these blocks sculpted by time and wind. Then we head to the Catarata de Pillones - Pauza. The waterfall seems smaller than in the photos we’d seen while planning the trip.
Joel doesn’t know of any other waterfalls, but he agrees to follow the track north to reach the spot I’d marked on the Organic Maps app. We arrive at a tiny dirt parking lot. A trail leads down; at one point, the path is very steep, and we have to hold onto a rope. Finally, we discover the beautiful waterfall. Joel, who wanted to come with us, seems thrilled to find this place he didn’t know about.






Some trips are born twice - Peru April-May 2025
Ticapi · 2026-02-26
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Muriel18 · 2026-02-26
These landscapes are truly stunning!
I’m having a bit of trouble following your routes... do you happen to have a map of your itinerary by any chance? If not, no worries—I’ll just Google it all 😉
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Ticapi · 2026-02-26
I saved all the points on Organic Maps, the equivalent of Maps.me but without download limits for maps. I don’t know if it’s possible to export the map... I can export the GPS points, but that won’t be any use to you. If anyone has a solution, I’d love to hear it!
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Ticapi · 2026-02-26
The Sillustani site is truly magnificent and still free from mass tourism. We had it almost all to ourselves, which was really nice. It does require a small detour to get there, but there’s a big upside—you don’t have to go through Juliaca. That city is awful: dusty, dirty, polluted, and packed with traffic. We passed through it when leaving the Lake Titicaca area to head to San Pedro.
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Bluequark · 2026-02-26
Thanks for this interesting travel journal with some lovely discoveries for me.
Ouch, that fall! The rest of the trip must have been really painful. I hope you’ve recovered.
As for the map, maybe a screenshot of the map in the app would work. By the way, thanks for the tip—I didn’t know about this map app.
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Blancond · 2026-02-26
Hi Carmen,
it’s been a while!
It’s great to see longtime friends returning.
I’ll be following your travel journal closely, especially since this is a destination we’re hoping to add to our short-term plans!
Jacques
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Ticapi · 2026-02-26
Ouch, that fall. The rest of the trip must have been really painful.
At first, yes, especially in bed and in the car. Then, as I already mentioned, I found a rather unconventional "treatment" for the pain, and it helped me a lot.
Otherwise, for the map, maybe a screenshot from the app? By the way, thanks for the info—I didn’t know about this map app.
Good idea, I’ll actually take some screenshots. It won’t be very precise, but it’ll give an idea.
Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
Ticapi · 2026-02-26
Hi Jacques,
It’s really nice to reconnect virtually like this! 😉
Peru is a gorgeous country—we loved our trip there.