Feedback on 15-day family trip to Colombia

Hi everyone, it’s been a while since I last posted!

First time in South America for me, my wife, and our 7-year-old son. I’ve put together this itinerary and would love to hear your thoughts:

Bogotá 28/07 – 30/07: Arrival. Which neighborhood and outings would you recommend? Flight to

2 Filandia 30/07 – 03/08: (255 €). Waterfalls and horseback riding, Cocora Valley, Hiking, Nearby villages. Flight to 3 Tayrona 03/08 – 07/08: Hotel La Casablanca

Hike with Tierra Nevada and the Kogui village (any feedback?). Return by inner tube for the little one. Short night hike. Second hike to La Piscina, etc., return by 🐎.

4 Cartagena 07/08 – 10/08: Air-conditioned bus. Staying in Getsemaní? Mangroves & the Castle, exploring the city.

5 Bogotá 10/08 – 12/08

Feel free to share your feedback! Have a great day!

Seb

Hello, I’m responding based on what I know (Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta and Cartagena).

The hike with tierra nevada village kogui (feedback?) And return by tube for the little one. Short night hike.

Tierra Nevada? Is that an agency? A night hike?! The tubes are this thing🙁: https://www.tripadvisor.fr/AttractionProductReview-g3754359-d23854484-Palomino_River_Tubing_with_Nature_Trail_Hike-Palomino_La_Guajira_Department.html It’s definitely in Palomino, right? There’s no Kogi village by the sea! If you want to do the tubing trip, you don’t need an agency—just go to Palomino. It’s a busy, beautiful beach, and you can sign up on the spot (you can’t miss it). FYI, the first Kogi villages are a two-day walk from the coast (Palomino or Santa Marta). For about twenty years, the Kogi community has completely banned access to their villages. Unless it’s some kind of "reconstructed" zoo-village just for tourists? If so, avoid it. As far as I know, the only way to visit an indigenous village is to do the Ciudad Perdida trek with the agency Wiwa Tours, run by the Wiwa community: https://wiwatour.com/fr/ It’s really worth it (you stay in a Wiwa village on the second day). The trek takes 4 or 5 days, but it’s not suitable for a 7-year-old unless they hike regularly. It’s hot, humid, with rivers to cross, and the trails are often very slippery.

Flight to 3 Tayrona 03/08 – 07/08 Hôtel La Casablanca

I assume you want to go inside Tayrona Park? In that case (without a car), it might be better to stay inside the park since there’s no guarantee of public transport from the hotel outside the park.

4 Cartagena 07/08 – 10/08 Air-conditioned bus. Staying in Getsemaní? Mangroves & Château, exploring the city.

Yes, Getsemaní is the best place to stay—it’s a great neighborhood.

Go to Mucura Island... it’s a 2-hour crossing.

Here’s the site that offers the 2-hour hike: https://www.tierranativacolombia.com/fr/servicios/comunidadkogui-sewiaxa. It seemed pretty ethical...

For the hotel, I’d rather stay in the jungle near the other entrance toward Calabazo. I prefer the jungle vibe over the beach for lodging, and we can always rent a ride to get to the main entrance.

Thanks for the tip about the neighborhood in Cartagena! For these 3 days, I don’t want to do the islands around there—they seem like tourist factories. We’ll enjoy the water mostly in Tayrona and focus on the city, plus maybe a canoe tour with fishermen in the mangroves.

But I agree with you on the ethical side—I have serious doubts about that "Kogui village just a 2-hour hike away"

Be careful when swimming in the entire Santa Marta, Tayrona Park, and Palomino area—except for one "Pool" inside the park, the sea is dangerous! I went there once with my son, who’s the same age as yours, and in Taganga (near Santa Marta), I had a bit of a scare because of the currents... Some beaches on Mucura (Cartagena) aren’t as touristy as you’d think and are much better for swimming. Inside Tayrona Park, there’s actually a small village (Pueblito, it’s a short hike away...) still inhabited by a few Kogis who protect the area for its seashells, which they need for their religious ceremonies. But in the area where the Palomino River flows into the sea (buoys), I’m not aware of anything, but if there is and there’s a *mama* (shaman), that could give you an idea of the Kogi world. PS: If you go to Minca, near Santa Marta, check out Finca Candelaria in the middle of the forest with toucans... (we stayed and had dinner with the owners). In the evening, you get a stunning view of the illuminated Caribbean coast. The next morning, visit the cocoa and coffee farm—you’ll learn everything about cocoa, from the pod to the chocolate bar, as they say!

Yes, two beaches indeed—I know the sea and its dangers well, so I wouldn’t risk it elsewhere, but thanks for the reminder!

"Some beaches on Mucura (Cartagena) aren’t as touristy as you’d think and are actually better for swimming."

I don’t doubt that, but after just visiting Tayrona, let’s just say that’s not what we’re looking for.

Inside Tayrona Park, there’s actually a small village (Pueblito—it’s a short hike) still inhabited by a few Kogis who protect the area for its seashells, which they use in their religious ceremonies. But near the mouth of the Palomino River (buoys), I’m not aware of any, though if there is one and there’s a *mama* (shaman), that could give you a glimpse into Kogi culture. We’ll skip that! Thanks.

Minca looks really nice—I hadn’t planned it, but do you think one day would be too short?

Thanks again for all the tips

Hi Seb, It’s been a week since I was in Colombia, but our itinerary took us from Bogota to Neiva by plane, then to Medellín, a flight to Bucaramanga, and finally back down to Bogota. The Caribbean coast will have to wait for another time. Capoa Tours from Bogota accompanied us (with vehicles and guides) throughout. I highly recommend this agency for their communication, sites, hotels, drivers, and guides. We discovered local crafts (banana bark fiber work, fique and vegetable ivory crafts), coffee, cocoa, and tobacco fincas. Hikes in the Cocora Valley, the Rock of El Peñol in Guatapé, the Camino Real in Barichara, Lake Guatavita (considered the most beautiful village in Colombia), the Tatacoa Desert, the archaeological park... Cities like Bogota (La Candelaria, the famous Usaquén market, the Gold Museum, Monserrate...) and Medellín (Comuna 13, the metro, Botero Square...). Accommodations like Finca Villa Nora (a paradise with its hummingbirds) in Quimbaya, and François’ house in San Agustín... Road travel is risky due to the poor condition of the roads and heavy traffic. Large trucks are everywhere, and motorcycles (especially in cities) are a constant hazard. Hope you have a great trip—it’ll no doubt be an amazing experience!

Hi,

One suggestion: check if it’s possible to land in Pereira instead of Bogotá.