Review of an expedition cruise to the Seychelles with Ponant from January 25 to February 2, 2026

Hi everyone,

It was totally by chance that I found this cruise while chatting with Alfred in November 2024. It wasn’t planned, but the price was attractive—one of those "great deals" from Ponant that I love and that don’t exist anymore. Since everyone’s wondering, here’s the answer without waiting for the end of the story: after my various loyalty discounts, I paid **3,250 € per person** for 8 nights/9 days on the expedition cruise *The Essentials of the Seychelles*.

Expedition cruises are by far our favorites. The outings are done by Zodiac with the ship’s naturalist guides, everything’s included, and there’s no need to add any excursions or prepare anything.

We’re liking long flights less and less, so to break up the trip, we decided to stop over in Doha for four days on the way there and one day on the way back.

I’m happy to share the good and not-so-good moments, the great surprises, and the disappointments of this trip with you.

Hi Catherine,

We did talk about this cruise at length. In fact, I almost went with you, but the dates didn’t work out.

I’m glad you were able to go. The price was amazing: 3,250 € for 9 days (expedition cruise) was a real steal. As you know, I still have a month left to follow your adventures. I’ll be happy to, and I know I’ll have my daily read until my departure on March 19. After that, I’ll still be able to follow you, whether in Dubai or on the ship.

Alfred

Yes! A trip report from Catherine—I’m diving in right away. Like Alfred, I’m really looking forward to the next "Adventures of Catherine" reads!

A small but important detail I forgot to mention: the cruise itinerary: Mahé, Île Rémire, Curieuse, Aride, Grande Sœur, Praslin, La Digue, Victoria.

Hi Alfred,

The countdown is on for you—dates might complicate things, but the main thing is to just go! 😎

Hi Catherine, Thanks for joining me on this long, sun-filled trip.

Thursday, January 15th – a rough start.

Everything had gone so smoothly up to that point. The drive was perfect—no snow, no traffic jams, no farmer protests blocking the roads. Pure bliss.

When we arrived at CDG Airport in Roissy, the Qatar Airways app showed our flight would be twenty minutes shorter than originally scheduled. Good news!

But things quickly took a turn. At baggage drop-off, the airport’s system was overwhelmed. Suitcases weren’t moving on the conveyor belt—they were being loaded by hand onto carts.

That would *probably* cause a delay, we were told… but “nothing major.”

Then the agent asked if I’d filled out the travel authorization request for the Seychelles. Well… uh, no. Not at all. I had no idea it even existed—the last time we went, there was no such requirement. I’d completely spaced it.

I’d have to do it in the boarding lounge.

Only problem? I didn’t have the required documents or all the details. For example, the address of our stay in the Seychelles. Since we’d be on a cruise, I tried “boat,” then “cruise,” then “Bellot,” but nothing worked in the app. I couldn’t finalize the request. Stress levels skyrocketed—boarding started in 45 minutes, and my brain was already foggy from the pressure.

Was there even a point in flying if we couldn’t enter the Seychelles? Our bags were already gone—how would we get them back? Maybe our layover in Doha would give us time to sort it out and submit the entry request.

I thought about calling Ponant, but let’s be real—their Marseille office is notoriously useless.

The best solution seemed to be CROISILAND. I called, dialed the wrong number twice in my panic, but Julie picked up. She took charge, filled out the request for me, and had the cruise confirmation on file. I sent her the rest of the documents via WhatsApp, and she used the port’s address for the cruise—it worked! Phew!

She finalized both our requests and even offered to cover the fees upfront, which I could repay later. What incredible service! I was so relieved—I’d been terrified, and it’s rare for me to feel that level of panic. I’m so grateful to her. She saved our trip. I was mortified—how could I have missed this requirement when I *always* double-check everything? The guilt was overwhelming. My husband was a saint—calm, no reproaches.



And that was just the *first* episode of this rough day.

We boarded the flight with a half-hour delay. Then they announced *another* thirty-minute delay, and the flight attendants passed out water. I would’ve preferred champagne to finish off the stress, but oh well.

After over an hour of delays, they announced *another* twenty-five minutes. This time, the attendants handed out juice. Maybe next time…

We were at two hours and fifteen minutes of delay (still no champagne) when the plane finally started backing up. Fingers crossed all our bags made it on board…

We landed at 1:30 AM local time in Doha. The airport was stunning—no surprise there—and eerily empty.



After going through slightly nitpicky formalities and grabbing a taxi, we arrived at the Shaza Hotel well past 2 AM.

Disappointment hit fast. I’d booked and prepaid the room through Booking.com, and I’d *emphasized* we’d be arriving very late. The manager informed us there was no room for us. The hotel was fully booked—*overbooked*, actually. They had 120 rooms and sold 123. The last room had just been given to the couple ahead of us.

It was incomprehensible. How could this happen? The manager was genuinely apologetic, oozing that charming Middle Eastern hospitality—almost disarming if I hadn’t been so furious. He asked us to wait two hours in the lounge until a room became available. He offered drinks and promised compensation: a free meal at the hotel restaurant. He *wanted* us to be happy, he said with a big smile. Easier said than done.

What choice did we have? At that hour, hunting for another hotel in Doha wasn’t a better option.

After a little insistence, he threw in a free meal per day for the rest of our stay.

So there we were—stuck waiting in the lounge, exhausted, unable to sleep like we’d hoped, after being awake for nearly 24 hours. I was disgusted, nauseous. What a day!





We finally got into a room at 5 AM. Just enough time to claim the space, take a quick shower, and collapse into bed at the time we’d normally be waking up.





This trip has gotten off to a *terrible* start. I hope it doesn’t stay on this trajectory. Check out the rest of our stay in Doha here. I’ll update this report when we reach Mahé.

Hi Catherine,

Looking forward to following this amazing cruise—we won’t be able to do it ourselves due to flight-hour limits for health reasons. We also book our cruises through Croisiland, and we’ve used their services before when delayed flights risked missing our transfer to CDG and could’ve made us arrive in Marseille after the ship’s departure. Never disappointed with their after-sales service. After the initial hiccups, things can only get better for your cruise. Have a great Sunday! Guylène

Hello Guylène, Thanks for being here. Even though I’ve been a customer with Croisiland for a long time, this was my first time using their after-sales service. It’s in moments like these that you really appreciate having a good agency.

Hi Catherine, You blew me away right from the start of your trip report—it was so gripping I had to stay on my toes with all the hiccups you ran into... Hope the rest goes more smoothly! 😉 Mich74

What a wild start to the cruise! It’s crazy, but thankfully Croisiland really delivered.

Hi Catherine,

I’m reading your report, especially the part about your departure. The stress started right at check-in, so it didn’t begin well, but the worst was your request for the Seychelles.

Oh my goodness, that reminds me of my departure for Australia two years ago. When I arrived in Los Angeles, I was supposed to board the Ovation of the Seas with Royal Caribbean. Once there, they told me: "Sir, you can’t board—you don’t have the eVisa for Australia."

Yet, the agency had told me I didn’t need one. Your story made me think of that. Thankfully, Croisiland was really responsive—it really pays to go through an agency. They were able to handle it, phew! But what a stress! Seriously, hats off to Croisiland!

Wow, what a day! Even after arriving in Doha, things weren’t quite smooth. The prepaid room wasn’t available. Fortunately, the manager was understanding: he took care of it by offering you a meal for the duration of your stay. That was really nice of him—he didn’t have to do that. On the other hand, Booking wasn’t exactly fair.

Hats off! Not only do I like your writing style, but you also do a great job separating the stay from the review. Seriously, bravo, bravo, and bravo.

Ah, the Corniche! I really love that spot. It’s so pleasant to take a walk there, whether during the day or in the evening.

Doha was my favorite stop on my last cruise, and I plan to go back soon!

Looking forward to the rest!

Hi Catherine, You blew me away from the very start of your trip report—it was so gripping, and you needed quick reflexes to handle all the setbacks... Hope the rest of the trip was smoother! 😉 Mich74

Good evening Michel,

There are times when you wonder why you even bother traveling. You might even think it’ll be the last time. But that feeling never lasts long. 😉

What a wild start to the cruise! It was crazy, but thankfully Croisiland came through.

Oh yeah! I was so relieved by the help the agency gave me—I was really scared.

Fortunately, the manager was understanding: he took care of everything by offering you a meal for the duration of your stay. That was really nice of him—he didn’t have to do that. On the other hand, Booking isn’t in the right here.

It’s not Booking’s fault; it’s the hotel owners who decide how many rooms to sell on the site. The hotel is entirely responsible, which is why they tried to make it right so I wouldn’t complain to Booking or on TripAdvisor. I’m mentioning it here because we’re among friends, but I left them good reviews without bringing up the issue. 😉

Doha was my favorite stop on the last cruise, and I’m planning to go back soon!

I loved Doha too—even more than Dubai—and I’d really like to go back soon. You told me it was great, and you were right!

Hi Catherine,

I’m discovering this travel journal... Since I went to the Seychelles a little less than a year ago (though in a more "classic" way), I’ll be following your trip with great interest. We also passed through Doha... but without all these adventures 😕 Hopefully, the rest of your journey will be smoother 😉.

Hi Muriel, Welcome to this travel journal! And thanks for your message. 🙂

Hi Catherine,

I’m heading to the Seychelles in September, exploring them in a more classic way like Muriel. I’m also planning a stopover on the way for a few days, but in Abu Dhabi. That said, Qatar has been catching my eye for a while, so I’m off to the other post.

Hi Jérôme, Welcome to this travel journal! 😎 A stop in Abu Dhabi is really nice too, but I absolutely fell in love with Doha.

Yes, the reviews on Doha seem unanimous. In Abu Dhabi, I’m staying for a week and renting a car to visit Al Ain and the Liwa Oasis.

Dubai isn’t far from Abu Dhabi by car either, and it’s worth the trip.

Hi Catherine,

I just came across your account, which reads like the start of a novel with so much suspense..... Croisiland has always been there for us when needed, even though I haven’t had such an "urgent" need. I hope the rest of your trip is smoother for both of you.

Best regards, Claudine

Hi Claudine, I’m happy to hear from you, thanks for your message.

Dubai isn’t far from Abu Dhabi by car either, and it’s worth the trip.

Hi Catherine,

Already been there a few years ago.

Hello I’m boarding too

Did Croisiland not warn you about the visa? Ponant didn’t either? It’s usually listed under mandatory requirements, isn’t it?

Oh wow... I would’ve been furious at the hotel! Did they refund you less for the night?

Hi Nathalie, Of course, I was notified about the visa—I got the emails from Ponant through Croisiland—but I totally spaced. It was entirely my fault. The hotel didn’t refund the room since it was prepaid through Booking, but they gave me four meals at the 5-star hotel’s restaurant. I think that was better than the room’s price (I’d gotten a really good deal). 😎 Believe me, I was furious at the time too. But afterward, we were so comfortable that we forgot about those few hours...

Wow, goodness me—this is a story you won’t want to miss! Like fine vintages, the omens are good.

Hi Christian, It’s really great to see you back on this forum. 🙂

Hello! Thanks for this new review—it’s great to have you here since not many people share their experiences 🙁 This itinerary is dreamy! In the meantime, I’m exploring Doha and I’m so glad I also went with Croisiland as my agency 😛

Hi Marie-Christine, Like you, I regret the drop in activity on this forum... Thanks for reading 😉

. . Thank you.

Pleasure was mutual.

Hi Marie-Christine, Like you, I regret the drop in activity on this forum... Thanks for reading me 😉

Hey Catherine,

Like Marie-Christine, I also lament the decline in activity on this forum since its reopening. On the other hand, the departure calendar is well filled, but there are few trip reports, and that’s a real shame.

The active members can be counted on one hand. It’s something I struggle to understand, but that’s just how it is—we have to deal with it.

Hi Marie-Christine, Like you, I regret the drop in activity on this forum... Thanks for reading me 😉

So, consider this an invitation—or rather, join me in the story I’m planning to share in April about our transatlantic crossing: the MSC PREZIOSA from Rio to Le Havre, in Yacht Club.

No grand adventures, admittedly, but an atmosphere, quality moments, and memories of another era that we’ll encounter along the way.

Anyway, we’re still just in the suitcase-planning stage (and they’re already full… of things we’ll never use, as usual).

Now that’s a great idea 😉 We’ll definitely be here to read your post 😎

. . Okay, I’ll try to do better . .

Tuesday, January 20, Victoria, Mahé

The flight from Doha is smooth and only lasts 4 hours and 40 minutes. The plane isn’t full, which gives us more comfort. We land in Victoria at 8:30 AM, right on time.

And that’s when things start to go wrong. I booked a taxi through the hotel, which assured me they were offering a better price than the taxis waiting at the airport. In early January, I accepted the offer for 600 SCR, or 35 €. When it’s time to pay, the taxi driver balks at the 5 € in coins that make up the exact amount. He prefers a bill, no problem, I give him a ten-euro note. But he leaves without giving me change. I catch up to him and demand it. At that point, he argues that the exchange rate has changed and it’s now 40 €. He doesn’t know me—I get my change back, and he leaves unhappy.

The hotel receptionist almost lectures me, using the same exchange rate argument as the taxi driver. I don’t appreciate it at all, especially since it was completely false—the exchange rate only dropped in favor of the euro during our stay.

We get our room, which is dirty. A paper towel wiped across the table turns black, not gray—black. We have it cleaned again, but even with three people working on it, the result is still disappointing. At least it’s a little better. We had them replace the brown jersey sheets, which were stained and full of holes, with white cotton ones.





The hotel is on the outskirts of the city, up in the hills, in a quiet neighborhood—that’s why we chose it, so we could easily walk into town. This hotel is the Hilltop Boutique Hotel, and I really don’t recommend it at all. You can read the review I left on Booking, "Not great, this HillTop," for more details.

We set off to explore Victoria on foot. But… it’s ugly, dirty, noisy, and polluted. It stinks, the traffic is chaotic, and there isn’t a single peaceful or pleasant spot to relax. It’s such a contrast after Doha—so beautiful, so clean, so welcoming.

We have to stay here until Sunday. It’s going to be a long few days… We’re already regretting it.

In the evening, I contact the car rental company via WhatsApp—we’d reserved a vehicle through the hotel for the next day.

Well, it turns out they don’t have the car we reserved. They only have larger, more expensive ones. Full-coverage insurance doesn’t exist here, and they want a 2000 € bank imprint as a guarantee. Under these conditions, they can keep their car! What kind of way is that to do business?

Hi Catherine,

You had another hectic arrival with the taxi, hotel, and car rental 👋—even more so since it was a short red-eye flight 😴! Did you still manage to get the room in the morning?

Hi Catherine, I get your disappointment—what a welcome! They try to scam you everywhere, and the filth in the room, the state of the sheets... it’s just unbelievable 😕

Hi Catherine, While checking your review on Booking about that not-so-great hotel, I didn’t see anything—did they delete it? Mich74

Hi Catherine,

You still had a hectic arrival with the taxi, the hotel, and the car rental 👋 Even more so since it was a short red-eye flight 😴 Did you still manage to get the room in the morning?

Hi Jérôme, This trip was full of little mishaps, always after nights that weren’t great—though this time, I didn’t even notice the flight. We got the room at 10 AM, but I would’ve preferred it a bit later and *clean*. 😉

Hey Catherine, I get your disappointment—what a welcome! They try to scam you everywhere, and the filth in the room, the state of the sheets... it's just unbelievable 😕

Hey Catherine, Yeah, unbelievable. I was expecting something different in the Seychelles, and this is just the beginning… 😛

Hi Catherine, While checking your review on Booking about that not-so-great hotel, I didn’t see it—did they delete it? Mich74

Hi Michel,

They didn’t delete it, they just hid it. You have to scroll down past the property amenities and click on: Read positive and negative reviews.

The negative comments are well hidden—only the best ones are on the first page. I wasn’t familiar with this system; I’ll pay closer attention now, Booking, thanks.

Not really great, this hotel—everything’s off 😉

Hi Catherine,

I totally agree with you—the contrast between Doha and Victoria is striking; there’s really no comparison.

That said, after a couple of days, you start to get used to it. When you first arrive, it looks grimy, but then you adjust. As for the hotel room, I saw it was not only basic but also dirty—that’s just unacceptable. You were right to leave a negative review on Booking.

Taxis are another issue—they try to scam tourists. I’m happy to tip when I’m satisfied, but I don’t like being pressured. And if the price changes afterward, that’s not right.

As for renting a car, I’d even say it’s unacceptable. You did the right thing by standing your ground.

Anyway, when I go to the Seychelles, I never rent a car because driving on the left isn’t my thing, and I’m afraid I’d mess up. Every time, I hire a driver for the day. But even that costs between 150 and 200 € per day, so you have to wonder if it’s worth it. Food is another overpriced thing in the Seychelles. Even takeaways (what we’d call fast food or street vendors) aren’t just mediocre—they’re also ridiculously expensive. It’s just crazy! Hope the rest of the trip goes better!

Alfred

Rough start in the Seychelles 😕 Hope the rest gets better 😉

Mahé is definitely the island I liked the least out of the 3 we visited (and I much preferred the south over the north), but we still met open and welcoming Seychellois people everywhere (including the car rental folks 😏... though we didn’t take any taxis). You really had bad luck 🏴‍☠️.

The negative comments are well hidden; the others are the best on the first page. I wasn’t aware of this system—I’ll look more carefully next time, Booking. Thanks. Not really great, this hotel—everything’s off 😉

Hi Michel, For me too, this was a chance to find out where the negative comments were hidden. I won’t forget to check them in the future. 😏

Hey Alfred,

Every time, I always hire a driver for the day. But even that costs between 150 and 200 € per day, so you have to wonder if it’s worth it.

The tourism business is a real goldmine for them—they’re really taking advantage of it. The price of a day’s driver makes my hair stand on end when you see the local standard of living.

Food is another ridiculously overpriced thing in the Seychelles. Even takeaways (what we call fast food or street vendors) aren’t just mostly mediocre—they’re also way overpriced. It’s just crazy!

Our Indian takeaway was really good and very affordable—usually less than 10 € for two. We’d just order one dish to share because the portions were so huge. But we checked out a lot of others that, just at first glance, didn’t look appetizing at all—way too heavy and greasy, and they didn’t tempt us in the slightest. We were lucky to find this one.

Rough start in the Seychelles 😕 Hope the rest gets better 😉

Mahé is definitely the island I liked the least out of the 3 we visited (and I much preferred the south to the north), but we still met open and welcoming Seychellois people (including car rental agents ... though we didn’t take any taxis). You really had bad luck 🏴‍☠️.

Hi Muriel, Yes, with a bit of patience, things will get better. But not right away. This start to the trip wasn’t exactly a walk in the park—I was expecting something very different from the Seychelles.

Wednesday, January 21, Victoria, Mahé

This morning, there’s a different receptionist at the front desk, and this one is much more attentive than the last. We tell him about our car rental troubles, and he suggests another rental company that doesn’t require a credit card imprint. He calls them, and half an hour later, it’s all settled—we’ve got a car for three days at 50 € per day, all taxes included. But the guy prefers cash, and we don’t have euros. He’s flexible, though, and accepts dollars.

But here come the disappointments. The roads are really narrow—I’d read about that—and on top of that, they’re lined with deep ditches or sidewalks that are easy to hit if you’re not used to driving on the left. Let’s just say driving here is *not* a walk in the park!!!

I’ve never been so scared in a car in my life—it’s awful, enough to make your stomach turn.

There’s practically nowhere to park, and the few spots that do exist are almost always private. And watch out for fines, the rental guy warned us.

We head toward Beau Vallon, but it’s impossible to stop—there’s nowhere to park, no way to pull over.

We keep driving along the coast toward the north of the island. But it’s so ugly! And still no way to stop.

I’d planned some hikes, but nothing is marked, and there’s nowhere to park anywhere.

When we finally do manage to park, we have to start by climbing over a barrier of trash or garbage bins just to get to the beach. And without the sun, the colors are dull.





After the trash, a little bit of nature.





What’s the Seychelles’ reputation based on? We’ll find out, I guess. For now, I’m really doubting it.

In the early afternoon, back in Victoria, we can do some shopping at the market for a light meal—sun-ripened tomatoes, mangoes, and mini bananas. Everything is delicious, at least that’s a positive.

During the hottest hours, we stay cool. At 4 PM, we head out to stretch our legs with a walk around town. It’s rush hour. Traffic and pollution are at their worst. The big public transport buses spew huge clouds of awful black smoke every time they start up. And when they’re not honking at us to get out of the way—even though we’re on the sidewalk—well, that’s just great.

The rain decides to show up just as we step outside. It’s light and not really bothersome. Most shops have already pulled down their shutters—it seems a lot of them close early, except for the handy little neighborhood stores run by Pakistanis or Indians.

We walk to the Hindu temple, which looks a little sad in the rain.



Next to the temple, there’s a friendly takeaway that’ll make our evening with some fruit.

A drop of rain was forecast for 7 PM on our app, but instead, a downpour hits us. It’s the rainy season, after all. Luckily, we’re already back inside and don’t have to go out to a restaurant like we’d originally planned.

Hi Catherine,

Your review doesn’t exactly paint a dreamy picture—between the north coast, the rental car hassles, the driving, the parking, and the rain. But I’m sure the best is yet to come, I hope! 😊