Planning a trip to Rwanda off the beaten path – logistical questions

hi there

I’ve been to Rwanda twice before, in November 1991 and December 1993, mostly for solidarity work. I’m looking into going back this November or December for three weeks, but I’m a bit hesitant when I see the tourist offerings—it’s so far from how I like to travel...

I travel solo using public transport and stay in places like guesthouses (GH), or accommodations run by cooperatives, associations, or religious groups. I love villages, markets, hikes, and local crafts. So far, my searches for these kinds of lodging options haven’t turned up much.

For now, I’m considering visiting (in no particular order):

Butare: Kibeho, Bisesero, Nyanza Ngenda Akagera, Kibungo, Lake Muazi Dian Fossey’s tomb (with the possibility of seeing gorillas) Kibuye??? Is the political situation stable there? Or Cyangugu?

So here are my first questions: -Is French still widely spoken? -Are there lists of the types of accommodations I mentioned above, or places to find that info? -Is what I’m planning doable using public transport? From the towns, are moto-taxis still available to get to villages, sites, and—most importantly—back? -Is it possible to go hiking solo? -Which are the best markets and what days are they held?

I know that’s a lot of questions already, and I really appreciate any relevant answers you can share. Looking forward to exchanging more!

Good evening, It’s perfectly possible to travel by public transport, and it’s actually quite easy since the roads are good and departures are fairly regular and punctual. Once you arrive at your stop, you can either use moto-taxis or regular taxis. There are always budget hotels and religious guesthouses in almost every major town where you can stay.

It’s entirely possible to go hiking, but if it’s in the parks (Nyungwe or Virunga), it will be mandatory to pay. Unless you get really lucky, you won’t be able to see the gorillas without paying for a gorilla permit. If you happen to come across them during another hike, rangers usually won’t let you approach them and will keep you at a distance.

To experience rural life, the best thing is to take the backroads and get off the main paved roads (there are some beautiful spots in the triangle between Nyamagabe, Ruhango, and Butare). There are also tons of new roads that make it much easier to reach areas that were much harder to access just a few years ago. I don’t know where the most beautiful rural markets are, but it’s not hard to find them and take a look around.

Happy planning!

THANKS A LOT! Any recommendations for places to stay?

Good evening, Any accommodations to help me frame my answer a bit better?

HELLO

I’m still working on my itinerary, but so far it includes: Kigali, Butare, Cyangugu, Kibuye, Gisenyi, Kibungo, and Volcanoes National Park. Thanks in advance!

Hi there, So, regarding lighter prices and religious congregations that I know of, here are some options: Kigali: Centre Saint Paul has rooms, I think. Musanze/Ruhengeri (outside the city and toward the lakes): Foyer de la Charité Remera Musanze/Ruhengeri (Kinigi, to be close to the park entrance): La Paillote Gorilla Gisenyi/Rubavu: Inzu Lodge / Kigufi (both are well located; Kigufi is run by nuns – in both cases, prices seem to have gone up a lot) Cyangugu/Rusizi: Peace Guest House / Centre Diocésain de Pastoral Incuti / Centre Saint François d’Assises (the first is near the lake and surrounded by vegetation, the second is up high with a great view, and the third is the cheapest and close to the Congolese border) Huye/Butare: Mater Boni Consili, Mont Huye, or Petit Prince (I mostly go to the first one)

I’ve pretty much tried all of these, or people I know have. But for some, it’s been a while. And Rwanda is changing fast, so maybe things aren’t as good as they used to be, or prices have changed. It might be worth checking Airbnb or Facebook, as some people offer rooms, which can be interesting, especially in Kigali.

In any case, this is a very subjective opinion, but I find that—whether expensive or cheap—the service, the room, and the overall experience rarely match the price when compared to neighboring countries. Often, you have to book your meal hours in advance, breakfast can be pretty sad, and the rooms rarely have charm.

Just saying—since I’ve been living here for a few years, I rarely stay in hotels, and not necessarily in this type of place. So for destinations like Musanze, Gisenyi, and Kigali, these aren’t firsthand tips. Sometimes, you either need to go for a higher-end option to be satisfied, or if price is the main factor, just pick the cheapest one, because paying a bit more won’t necessarily get you much better. Or anything better at all. In that sense, rooms on Airbnb, etc., can be interesting and offer better quality for sometimes very reasonable prices