On the Roads of Costa Rica

Hello everyone, I’m happy to welcome you to this new travel journal. We’re heading to Costa Rica together—a Central American destination that dreams are made of for many French travelers and attracts crowds from France.



It was the country’s wild nature and safety that convinced us to go, since we’re traveling with our 7-year-old little one. We didn’t have much vacation time in February 2026 (only 12 days), so we optimized as much as possible.



Here’s the itinerary: Wednesday, February 11: Flight from Marseille to San Jose via Paris and Atlanta Thursday, February 12: Pick up the car, drive to Poas Volcano, visit La Paz Waterfall Gardens Friday, February 13: Poas Volcano and drive to Manuel Antonio Saturday, February 14: Manuel Antonio National Park Sunday, February 15: Nauyaca Waterfall and Playa Linda Monday, February 16: Drive to Monte Verde and Santa Elena Reserve Tuesday, February 17: El Tigre Waterfall Reserve and Treetopia Park Wednesday, February 18: Monte Verde Reserve with a guide and drive to La Fortuna Thursday, February 19: Sloth guided tour, Observatory Lodge Park Friday, February 20: Arenal Volcano National Park, Termalistas del Arenal hot springs, and night tour Saturday, February 21: Return to San Jose, flight to Paris via Atlanta Sunday, February 22: Arrival in Paris and flight to Marseille. That gives us a solid 9 days in the country.



Budget breakdown: Costa Rica is an expensive country, but no more so than France. However, almost all hikes and waterfalls are paid entry, which can really add up. For meals, sodas (6–10 €) are cheaper than restaurants (10–20 € per dish).



Flights: We chose Delta Airlines for the price: Marseille to San Jose was 740 € per person (modifiable, with checked baggage and seat selection included). Other direct flights from Europe were priced between 1200 € and 1600 € with more restrictive conditions. That’s 2220 € for the family.



Accommodations: Alajuela, first night: 139 € (1 night) at Rodeo Estancia Boutique Hotel, with personalized airport pickup, transfer to the hotel, and a briefing from Vert Costa Rica agency the next day. Poas: 66 € (1 night) at Cabañas Tierra Fértil (entire apartment). Manuel Antonio: 394 € (3 nights) at La Palapa Ecolodge (hotel in the jungle). Monte Verde: Chalet Aloha Monteverde Cloud Forest (2 bedrooms): 125 € (2 nights). La Fortuna: Arenal Dream Garden (1 bedroom): 217 € (3 nights). Total: 941 €.



Car rental: I went through Vert Costa Rica agency (Vincent is a French expat who set up the agency in Costa Rica and makes great YouTube videos with useful tips). I rented a 4x4 that was delivered to the hotel the day after arrival and returned at the airport before the flight. The total was 772 €, including full insurance (zero deductible), a child seat, and a phone with a Costa Rican SIM and WhatsApp. The rental company was Poas Rent a Car. The vehicle was well-maintained—no complaints. Gas: 100 € for the whole trip (3 fill-ups).



Activities: To get discounts, I bought the pass offered by Vincent, which paid for itself after just one activity. It cost me 30 € (promo since I rented the car through him). Prices are for 3 people. I’ve added stars to rate them: La Paz Waterfall Gardens ****: 112 € Poas Volcano National Park *: 33 € Manuel Antonio National Park ****: 35 € Nauyaca Waterfall ***: 25 € Santa Elena Reserve **: 45 € El Tigre Waterfall Reserve ****: 141 € (with meal) Treetopia (ziplining, suspension bridges) **: 250 € Guided tour of Monte Verde Reserve ***: 113 € Sloth guided tour (with breakfast) ***: 115 € Arenal Observatory Lodge (with meal) ****: 102 € Arenal Volcano National Park *: 34 € Termalistas del Arenal ****: 20 € Night tour ***: 116 € Total: 1171 €.



Meals: 600 € My favorite restaurants: Poas: Food court Mercaditas in Fraijanes Manuel Antonio (near La Palapa): La Langosta and also El Patio Near Nauyaca Waterfall: Ricar2 el Avión Between Manuel Antonio and Monte Verde: Soda D’Calle Santa Elena: HG’s Food Guadalupe (between Monte Verde and La Fortuna): Soda Río Piedras Arenal Observatory Lodge restaurant Arenal Oasis Ecolodge restaurant



Other expenses: 300 € (groceries for breakfast, drinks, ice cream, souvenirs, etc.) Total overall: 6065 € (about 2020 € per person).

Now, here’s the day-by-day account of this beautiful trip.

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Wednesday, February 11, 2026: A Day in the Sky Across 7 Time Zones Weather: sunny, rainy The Air France flights from Marseille to Paris to Atlanta go really smoothly. The layover in Atlanta is quick, and everyone is lovely (security checks, border police, customs, etc.).



The last flight of the day from Atlanta to San Jose also goes very well. Here we are, arrived. A Vert Costa Rica guide welcomes us as promised at the plane exit. We collect our luggage and get into a prepaid taxi, heading to the Rodeo Estancia Boutique hotel for a good night’s sleep.



Thursday, February 12: In the La Paz Jungle, First Encounters Weather: overcast, drizzle, 16°C Barely awake, our daughter wants to go to the pool. After a quick dip, we have breakfast on the hotel’s gorgeous terrace.



At 10:00 AM, Vincent from Vert Costa Rica arrives and briefs us on Costa Rica: sights, places to avoid, driving rules, etc. He gives us a discount card to present during activities. At 11:00 AM, Poas Rent a Car hands over the car. We inspect it and pay by card (I didn’t pay any deposit), then we’re off. Vincent programmed a bank into the GPS that charges low fees for withdrawing cash (500 €).

Withdrawing cash wasn’t really necessary since, except for the Termalistas del Arenal, everyone—without exception—accepted card payments, even the smallest ice cream vendor. We arrive at Cabana Tierra Fertil in Fraijanes in an hour. We drop off our bags and go eat. The owner recommends eating at Mercaditas, a food court that’s honestly amazing with local specialties. We feast at a great price for our first meal. The ceviche was perfect.



Then we visit the La Paz Waterfall Gardens, a must-see spot we loved. It’s at high altitude, and we find ourselves in the clouds.



Besides the spectacular waterfalls, you can see many animals that have been cared for but unfortunately can’t return to the wild. You can spot snakes, frogs, sloths, jaguars, pumas, and other big cats.







We spend a fantastic afternoon in the clouds with a sort of misty rain—not too bothersome but it soaks you in the end.





In the evening, we go back to eat at Mercaditas, which is a 5-minute walk from our cabin. This time, it’s raining a bit more, and we’re really freezing.

Friday, February 13: Pea Soup Fog Weather: fog, rain, 14°C We booked our visit to Poás at 7:30 AM, and at 7:30 AM, we’re there. The park rangers check our tickets on our phones and our passports, then we park in the monitored parking lot.



Unfortunately, given the weather, the volcano stays shrouded in fog, as does the adjacent lake, visible from another viewpoint. The fog never lifted. I checked the volcano’s webcam—it stayed in pea soup fog the entire time we were there (except for one day).



Huge disappointment!! The weather seems just as bad in the Arenal region, where we’re headed next. On the other hand, it’s sunny near the Pacific, though it’s supposed to turn bad when we get there at the end of our trip. So I decide to reorganize the trip and start with the Pacific, finishing with Arenal. Since my accommodations are cancelable and modifiable, I can swap the two stages without any issues. We head toward the Pacific, toward Palapa Ecolodge, a 4-hour drive away.



We arrive in the late afternoon—it’s sunny and hot. We enjoy the pool and discover the great restaurant El Patio.



Saturday, February 14: Paradise Park, Manuel Antonio Weather: Sunny, 33°C We wake up super early (around 5:30 AM) to be at Manuel Antonio by 7:00 AM, our reserved time slot. We park in a lot for $8 a day near the public beach, about 300 meters from the park entrance (a good compromise). We show our reservations on our phones, then comes the security check, where they confiscate our headlamp and water bottles. Only reusable water bottles are allowed. No food is permitted. The visit begins, and there aren’t too many people except for a few groups of 5–10 with guides. Thanks to them, we spot some animals like bats and birds. For the rest, it’s pretty tricky. The park visit turns out to be a lovely walk in the forest on well-marked, pleasant trails. We head to Manuel Antonio Beach, where we’re almost alone. It’s paradise. The weather’s perfect, the water’s calm and warm. Pure bliss! We see iguanas, hermit crabs, and other crabs.



After this refreshing break, we explore Punta Catedral. The trail takes about 40 minutes, and we spot lots of capuchin monkeys and birds.



Then we go for a swim at Playa Espadilla Sur, where the waves are bigger than at Manuel Antonio Beach. A small wooded strip separates the two beaches.

It’s on this strip, on the way to the park’s only café, that we witness a hunting scene: a green vine snake hunts a frog and devours it! Impressive!



The café is expensive and noisy, but there’s no other option. We get away with spending $40 for two slices of pizza, a hot dog, and three ice creams! By 1:00 PM, the park’s getting crowded, especially at the two beaches, so we head off to explore the trails leading south toward Playa Escondido. This nearly deserted beach is straight out of the Seychelles! We see a few coatis squabbling.





Next, we climb up to the viewpoint. It’s a steep climb, but it’s worth it.

It’s 3:30 PM, time to leave the park, which closes at 4:00 PM. We finish the afternoon at the public beach, enjoying some coconuts. It’s a fantastic moment.



We then go to the supermarket to pick up a few groceries and realize it’s not necessarily cheaper than eating at a *soda*. Prices are high (e.g., 3 € for a 250g pack of pasta, 25 € for a child’s snorkeling mask, 15 € for a 250g pack of ground coffee). Plus, at La Palapa, our electric cooker isn’t working well, and our pasta turns out badly. So we end up having dinner with just three bananas.

Sunday, February 15: The waterfall and the sunset Weather: sunny, 35°C After breakfast at La Palapa, we hit the road for Nauyaca Waterfall, located 30 minutes from the hotel. We go early because this spot is popular with Americans, who invade it starting at 10:00 AM. We pay the $10 entrance fee, then drive to the parking lot 2 km further. From there, we start a 3.5 km hike to the waterfall. While the beginning is easy, the last kilometer is all uphill in full sun. (Bring water, a hat, and sunscreen—it’s intense!)



Luckily, we’re rewarded when we arrive at this majestic site.

For info, the site managers will take you to the base of the waterfall in a 4x4 for an additional $22 per person. There are already a few people there, but that doesn’t stop us from enjoying it.



After an hour and a half, it becomes unbearable. The Instagrammers are out in full force—people jumping everywhere, crowds swarming, it’s noisy, and... we’ve had enough, so we leave. It’s 1:00 PM when we get back to the car (it’s easier going downhill). We stumble upon Ricar2 el Avión, a restaurant housed in a Boeing 727. The food is good, and the terrace with a pool is super nice.



Near La Palapa, there’s a small free waterfall. That’s where we head. It’s popular with locals—families spend the whole day there. We stay for about an hour before packing up.

We want to see the sunset over the Pacific, so we choose Playa Linda based on our host’s recommendation. We don’t regret it—it’s absolutely stunning!



To end the day on a high note, we treat ourselves to a meal at Langosta, an amazing restaurant.



Monday, February 16: On the way to the green mountain Weather: sunny, 25°C This morning, we pack up and head to our second stop. We fill up at a gas station in Quepos, then cross the crocodile bridge, where we stop. We spot a big alligator down below.



The drive continues without incident until we reach Soda D’Calle, where we have lunch. And wow, it’s delicious! We arrive in Monteverde around 2:30 PM, drop off our bags at Monteverde Forest House, and then explore the Santa Elena Reserve.



Again, we don’t see any animals—they’re hiding well. Still, the site has a viewpoint that lets us glimpse the Arenal Volcano. The Tenorio, on the other hand, is shrouded in clouds.







On the way back, we catch a quick glimpse of a quetzal, a toucan, and some little coatis come to tickle our feet.

In the evening, we eat at HG’s Food, right next to our cabin. It’s really good!

Tuesday, February 17: The Waterfall Festival Weather: sunny, 25°C This day is dedicated to the El Tigre waterfalls site. The weather is nice, but it's windy and a bit chilly. It's 10°C this morning. The little birds still come to visit us, though.



Around 8:30 AM, we head to El Tigre, arriving without any issues via a bumpy dirt road.



I hand over my voucher at the reception, and they tell me the meal is included. Great news—I’d forgotten that detail. They ask what we’d like to eat and give us instructions for the horseback ride back up. At first-aid post number 3, we need to grab the walkie-talkie and give our name for the horse.

Off we go. The hike, all downhill, takes us past several waterfalls and suspension bridges. It’s stunning. There are a few people around, but not enough to make it unpleasant. We even find ourselves alone on the trails a few times.



Once again, we don’t spot any animals, but the waterfalls more than make up for that little disappointment.

At marker number 3, we grab the walkie-talkie and announce our arrival for the horse, which is waiting 300 meters ahead.

The ride back up takes 20 minutes with the gentle horses and a group of about fifteen people.



We wrap up this amazing morning with a panoramic meal. We’re lucky—the weather is perfect.

After coffee, we hit the road for Treetopia. I’d planned to do the zip lines at Sky Adventure in Arenal, but given the weather forecast there and the great weather here, I cancel that reservation and book at Treetopia instead. It costs us the modest sum of 250 € for two combined zip line-suspension bridge passes for my daughter and me, and a cable car-suspension bridge combo for my wife.

Unfortunately, my little one gets really scared and gives up after just one descent. She heads back down with her mom via the cable car. As for me, I happily—though a bit nervously—complete the seven spectacular descents above the canopy. It’s magical!



I finish with a 30-meter bungee jump... gulp, no fear at all. I then meet up with the girls, and we explore the suspension bridge park, which offers a great experience in the canopy, even if we don’t see any animals. We do hear the impressive howler monkeys, though.



After the tour, I try—unsuccessfully—to get a refund for the overpayment since my daughter didn’t complete the activity. They refuse to give me anything. But I don’t give up. I message the manager on WhatsApp and share my disappointment. He agrees to compensate me by offering the photo pack of my adventure, which was priced at $30. That works for me. In the evening, we want to go to the best local restaurant in Santa Elena, but parking is impossible. We end up at Thomas & Thiago’s restaurant instead. The food is great, but it’s packed with American groups making as much noise as a 777 taking off. It’s pretty unbearable, so we don’t stay long.

Wednesday, February 18: Beautiful Encounters Weather: sunny, 25°C At 8:00 AM, we start a tour of the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve with a guide, an excursion we booked the day before through their website. We leave our chalet with all our suitcases in the trunk. The parking lot is very secure, which is reassuring. In Costa Rica, thefts from car trunks are common. The tour starts on time, and the guide spots nothing less than a magnificent pair of quetzals.



Then we come across a tarantula in its burrow, a lizard, hummingbirds, a spiny insect, and a zombie wasp—attacked by a fungus that controls it. But how do guides spot a zombie wasp 20 meters away under a leaf?



We definitely got our money’s worth! We pass by the oldest tree in the forest (400 years old) and a beautiful waterfall before it’s time to leave.

We tackle the terrible road leading to La Fortuna. It’s rough until we reach the lake, and thankfully, it’s not raining. Potholes, steep descents, sharp turns, narrow stretches, and semi-trucks driving at 30 km/h... it’s brutal! We take a short break at a *soda* by Lake Arenal: Soda Pietra del Rio, which is really good.

Then the road continues on smooth, pleasant asphalt with beautiful viewpoints.



We arrive at Arenal Dream Garden in the late afternoon, which will be our favorite accommodation. We enjoy the beautiful pool a bit before heading to Ross Restaurant for dinner (not unforgettable, but affordable).

Thursday, February 19: Under the rain Weather: heavy showers, rain, sunny spells, 20°C This morning, we set off at dawn because we’re going to see sloths at 6:00 AM. We’re picked up 30 minutes from our hotel by the Callidryas agency. It’s raining pretty hard, but we’ve got all the gear we need. The tour is in French, which is great news.



With the guide, we manage to spot 4 sloths. Seeing them is guaranteed on this tour, which ends with a fantastic breakfast at the Arenal Oasis Ecolodge surrounded by tropical birds.



After the tour, we head to the Arenal Observatory Lodge for a walk on the 11 km of trails in this high-quality reserve. The entrance is pricey but includes lunch. We walk for 2 hours in the morning and discover a pretty waterfall, then a lake, as another shower hits, plunging the pine forest into a strange mist.







We’re then warmly welcomed at the restaurant, which offers a great view of the brooding Arenal and countless birds.

After lunch, we climb the mirador, a metal tower that sways in the wind! Not for those afraid of heights!



We keep going, but the rain gets heavier. It won’t stop raining as we head back. A little tired from the early start, we decide not to go out for dinner. We grab sushi and poke bowls at a food court and stay at the hotel. Tomorrow’s the last day.

Friday, February 20: A volcano and hot springs Weather: sun, overcast, showers, 25°C After breakfast (we bought a gorgeous pineapple, and our host gave us some fruit), we head to Arenal National Park. The hike leads to a viewpoint overlooking the volcano, where you can see a lava flow. The weather’s overcast, with a bit of drizzle, but nothing dramatic.

It’s a group hike with dozens and dozens of French people. They’re all here! Unbelievable!



On the way back, we spot some capuchin monkeys in the trees.

The national park is divided into 2 zones. The first is on the volcano’s slopes, and the second is by the lake. It’s accessible via a bumpy road and is much less crowded. We find some sun there, but also a shower on the way back. You can explore it in less than an hour—just enough time to walk down to the lake and back up. It’s pretty flat.

For lunch, we treat ourselves to our last *soda* before heading to the Termalistas del Arenal, where we spend an amazing afternoon. For $8 entry with the Costa Rica Green Pass (instead of $10), we get to enjoy 9 hot pools ranging from 35 to 50°C. There’s a sauna and slides for kids. You can picnic, have a BBQ, or even bring your own grill!



I loved this place! The frequent showers didn’t bother us at all. In the late afternoon, we go to the Arenal Oasis Ecolodge, where we meet our guide again for a nighttime walk on the lodge’s trails.

We’re with a group of French people from Alsace, really friendly, but the tour’s in English. As we start our frog hunt, the sky falls on us. It’s pouring, and we have to take shelter on the lodge’s restaurant terrace.

Since the rain doesn’t stop, the tour organizer (Callidryas) brings us big umbrellas, and we carry on. It’s raining, it’s raining—frog party! And we see frogs, especially the ones with red legs and eyes (the prettiest).





We also spot a banana spider, toads, and a snake. It’s a great walk we don’t regret.

We end the tour with a meal at the lodge’s restaurant and enjoy it. We share the moment with the Alsatians, laughing! Would we have walked for 2 hours in pouring rain in France to see night frogs? And paid 50 € for it?! The trip back to the hotel goes smoothly. Tomorrow, we head back to France. Saturday, February 21: The return that doesn’t want to happen Weather: overcast, sun, rain, 30°C We leave La Fortuna at 7:30 AM to be at Poas Rent a Car by 11:00 AM, and we make it without any issues.

The rental company’s free shuttle takes us to the airport, where we drop off our bags with Delta Airlines. We grab some fast food at the food court—it costs us $68. A rip-off!! Then we wait, wait, and wait some more because our first flight is 2 hours and 35 minutes late, leaving us barely 45 minutes to connect in Atlanta. It goes smoothly, though, since there was no one at the various checkpoints.

We arrive in Paris and get home with a 1-hour delay because the last plane broke down at Roissy.

Conclusion: It was short but packed. We had to make choices, but even though Costa Rica is small, it has so much to offer, and I feel like we made the most of every stop in this country.

2-3 days in each place seems like a good idea for a trip like this, but it’s totally possible to spend a whole week in La Fortuna or on the Pacific coast since there’s so much to see and do. It’s a very expensive country, sure, very touristy, and crowded, but that’s the price to pay for good infrastructure and strong security—both in terms of crime and health. The tap water is drinkable, so no risk of traveler’s diarrhea. The guides and agencies we contacted were all transparent, serious, and professional. Plus, nature conservation isn’t just talk there. Everything was very clean, and the rules are strict. The food is really good—you’ll find local specialties as well as Westernized options, so there’s something for every taste. Finally, I found the Ticos absolutely lovely: cool, kind, smiling, professional, and really good at English!!

Highlights of the destination: Preserved and stunning nature A ton of activities Wonderful people, even more so if you speak Spanish Good tourist infrastructure Credit cards accepted everywhere Sodas—small, affordable restaurants High level of safety Tasty cuisine Wi-Fi everywhere, even in small sodas Drinkable and good tap water!

Downsides of the destination: Fairly high cost of living, especially for activities Poorly maintained and dangerous roads—don’t underestimate travel times. Hot water systems in showers can be unreliable Bugs in rooms due to jungle proximity (centipedes, spiders, cockroaches, worms...) Some sites are overcrowded with noisy tourists Wildlife can be hard to spot on your own Dead zones everywhere—no internet once you leave the city (plan your GPS ahead) The weather: rain, wind, and fog that spoiled some visits Petty crime is on the rise. We’re warned not to leave anything in cars, which also don’t have rear shelves to hide trunk contents.



Thanks for reading! I hope you enjoyed this travel journal. On this first trip, we saw the touristy and commercial side of Costa Rica, but there’s also a quieter, more secret, cheaper, and more authentic side—this country has many facets.

Thanks for reading. I hope you enjoyed this travel journal. For this first trip, we saw the touristy and commercial side of Costa Rica, but there’s also a quieter, more secret, cheaper, and more authentic side, as this country has many facets.

Hi Yadin, I came across this travel journal while browsing VF—thanks for your factual and no-frills take on this country where I spent a month at the end of 2022. I also had to juggle the weather a bit, but not as much as you did... Nine days is indeed very (too) short to explore the more authentic and less "beaten-path" sides, like the Pacific coast or the Osa Peninsula. And on top of that, the Quetzal!!