What circuit to do from Monastir?

Hi there,

I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.

I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).

I’ll be getting around by public transport.

I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.

If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.

Thanks in advance.

Hello,

I’ve decided to skip Djerba and head south instead, toward Tozeur and Tataouine.

From what I’ve read in travel guides, there are *louages* from Sfax to Gabès, then from Gabès to Douz and Tataouine. From Douz, you can take a *louage* to Tozeur. This fits exactly with what I want to see: Tataouine, Tozeur, and their surrounding areas.

My question is: what’s the best order for this loop to get back to Monastir (where I’ll be flying in and out) without wasting too much time, since I only have 15 full days?

I’m thinking of doing Gabès – Douz – Tozeur, then back to Douz to head down to Tataouine (Chenini, Douiret, etc.), and finally up through Matmata, Gabès, Sfax, and back to Monastir.

On my first trip a few days ago, I booked hotels almost day by day. I’m wondering if the hotel availability and tourist season in this region will let me do the same this time?

Thanks in advance for your advice.

Hi Marie, I see you haven’t gotten many replies to your post—there aren’t a ton of people on the Tunisia forum... I’ve been thinking about your trip, and my first thought is that it’s going to be tricky with public transport. It’s more complicated on the circuit around Tozeur/Tataouine than in Djerba, where it’s easy to take a taxi from Houmt Souk to Guellala or Erriadh. There are places you absolutely have to see in the Ksour, but I’m not sure if there’s public transport there. Maybe hire a private taxi to take you on a day trip. For hotels, aside from Tozeur or Douz where there are good mid-range options, in the villages it’s mostly budget hostels. In my opinion, booking a day in advance should be enough everywhere at this time of year. Except in Tamerza, where you could stay several days at the Tamerza Palace and explore the area between Mides, Chebika, and Tamerza on foot in the canyon. You won’t regret it! I’ll keep thinking about it and get back to you as soon as I have some time.

I see you haven’t gotten many replies to your post—there aren’t a lot of people on the Tunisia forum here.

Hi Michèle,

No matter which travel forum you check, there isn’t much activity about Tunisia. On other forums, it’s mostly guides or drivers promoting their services.

It's gonna be tricky with public transport. More complicated on the circuit around Tozeur/Tataouine than Djerba

I don’t drive, so I don’t have a choice, and there are no direct flights to Tozeur. Plus, it’s still a good time to visit those areas. You can go to Djerba any time of year.

I’ve read travel blogs by tourists who hitchhiked in those regions, but they were in pairs or groups, and they also mentioned there were taxis or agencies. I think I’ll be able to find a way to get to remote spots.

Otherwise, I’m thinking of sticking to either Tataouine and the surrounding area or Tozeur and its surroundings. I won’t be able to do everything, and I don’t like rushing. Anyway, I’ll be back in Tunisia—it’s not far.

Hi,

Otherwise, I’m thinking of sticking to either Tataouine and the surrounding area or Tozeur and the surrounding area,

One place I really enjoyed: the mountain oasis of Chebika (it’s very close to Tozeur). That was ages ago! From what I remember, there’s also Matmata and Zarzis, where I was invited to stay with a family. Tataouine… meh.

Tataouine...meh.

Hi there,

It's mainly the areas around Tataouine that seem worth the trip: Chenini, Guermassa, Douiret, etc...

Yeah, Tataouine is meh! Apart from memories and the Foreign Legion that was once there, Tataouine doesn’t have much to offer. You do need to pass through to get to Douiret, Chenini, and Ksar Ouled Soltane, but I’m not sure what transport options are available. But it doesn’t seem impossible to hire a private taxi for the day to do a circuit. You could also check with an agency or book excursions through hotels. Spending 4 or 5 days around Tozeur seems reasonable, 2 days in Douz is fine, and 2 or 3 days around Matmata and the ksours is plenty. 15 days for this circuit feels like too much. Even if you’re not in a rush, there’s not much to do on the way from Monastir. If you don’t want to go to Djerba—which really needs a full week—maybe consider a trip to Kerkennah or spend some time in Sfax, Mahdia, and Monastir. But save that for the return trip from the south, depending on how much time you have left. I don’t know if the desert interests you, but around Douz or Zafrane, you can spend a night in the desert. Or head to Ksar Ghilane, though I’m not sure what’s become of the hotels there. Check out Julien’s (faiyech) or Alain’s (calage) posts for inspiration—their itineraries are great. You absolutely must go to Tamerza Palace. I loved that place and the hotel, which blends so seamlessly into the landscape. It was unfortunately closed for years but reopened in spring 2026. Let us know how your itinerary is shaping up!

15 days for this itinerary seems too long

You absolutely must go to Tamerza Palace—I loved that place and how invisible the hotel is in the landscape.

Hello,

Out of the 15 days, you’ll need to subtract two or three for travel time, but from what I’ve seen, if you’re not doing any treks or long hikes, the visits go by pretty quickly (small villages, landscapes).

I was planning to stop in Sfax, and I think Monastir deserves a full day too.

Thanks for the tip about Tamerza Palace—it’s not in any travel guides or blogs, and they don’t have a website. I’ll call them before I leave.

So, I’ll head toward Tozeur first, then Tataouine, before making my way back up to Monastir, and I’m definitely skipping Djerba.

You can find info about the Tamerza Palace on Booking. You’ll actually have a bit of time for Monastir, Mahdia, and Sfax. Julien mentioned Monastir and Mahdia. He didn’t visit the museum in the former Habib Bourguiba palace just outside the city and a stone’s throw from the airport. Really nice.

Marie, if you're looking for a hotel very close to Monastir airport, there's the Kuriat Palace, right across the street. No need for a taxi at all. Depending on the day and time you arrive, you might be able to visit the palace/museum upon arrival. I don’t know what itinerary you’re planning, but there aren’t many sights along the way except Monastir. Maybe Mahdia and Sfax on the way back as you head north. If you pass through Sbeitla, it’s an interesting site. Gafsa isn’t very exciting, but in Métlaoui, there’s the "Train du Bey," if it’s running. It’s a fun experience through the gorges of the Oued Selja. There’s usually only one departure around 9:30/10 AM—check ahead. But whatever you do, don’t plan to sleep in Métlaoui—I have awful memories of it. You should take the road from Tozeur to Métlaoui or Tamerza to Métlaoui in the morning before the excursion departs. Then you’ll cross the Chott el Jerid and might even see some mirages. Not much in Kébili, but Douz is really nice—being there on Thursday for the market is a plus. But it’s a very small town, so you’ll see it all quickly. From Douz or Zaafrane, you can do a desert trek with an overnight stay organized by an agency or a hotel, which would let you join a group. From Douz, you’ll head to Matmata—you might want to stay overnight there, as there are some decent hotels. I’m not sure if there are still hotels in Tataouine.

Hi Michèle,

I arrive in Monastir on April 11th in the late afternoon and leave on April 27th.

The best plan is to head out on April 12th toward Douz. After that, I’ll go to Tozeur, and if I want to visit Matmata, Chenini, or Tataouine, I’ll have to go back through Douz.

On the way back to Monastir, I can stop in Sfax and Mahdia if I have time.

For Tataouine, travel guides mention a few hotels that organize excursions (Hôtel Dakyanus, Hôtel Tataouine Les Bains).

I’ll need to figure out my base points for exploring the region—at least Tozeur and Tataouine, since I should find guides and agencies there.

As for the Lézard Rouge train, Fayech said it wasn’t running when he was there in November.

Otherwise, is Gabès worth it? No palm grove or oasis?

Hi Marie, I get that you prefer unstructured trips 😄, but to avoid unnecessary backtracking, the most direct way—and to not pass the same place twice—would be to head toward Tozeur, then go to Douz, Matmata, and Tataouine before looping back via Sfax, Mahdia, and Monastir. A triangular route. Tozeur and the mountain oases will be the most interesting part of your trip. Then Douz and a desert hike. Tataouine isn’t worth much, and the hotels are pretty meh unless they’ve been recently renovated... But you’ll need to circle around Tataouine to visit the ksours. After that, head back up the coast to Sfax, Mahdia, and Monastir. You can probably skip a stop in Tataouine by staying in a guesthouse in Douiret... In Matmata, there are decent hotels. Gabès used to be interesting when there was a palm grove, but I’ve heard there’s not much left now—I haven’t stopped there in quite a while. For the Red Lizard train, it’s very possible it’s running—you’ll need to look up the info... It’d be a shame to miss it. But there’s nothing else in Métlaoui...

Hi

Hitchhiking in Douz should be done on Wednesday evening because Thursday morning is the weekly souk, which is very picturesque. Worth seeing.

Calaf

The stop in Douz should be made on Wednesday evening because Thursday morning, market day, is very picturesque.

Hi,

Yes, I’ll try to time the visit to Douz for the Thursday market.

To avoid unnecessary back-and-forth trips, the most direct route—so you don’t pass the same place twice—would be to head toward Tozeur. Do a triangular circuit. Tozeur and the mountain oases will be the most interesting part of your trip.

Good evening Michèle,

Yes, if there’s a direct bus or *louage* from Monastir to Tozeur, that’s what I’ll do. Otherwise, I’ll go down to Sfax, where I saw there’s a direct *louage*. From Monastir to Tozeur, it should take me at least 6 hours.

So, I’ll book the night of April 11th in Monastir, and starting April 12th, I’ll book in Tozeur. Once I’m there, the locals (hotel staff, taxi drivers, etc.) will tell me the best way to get around—whether it’s the bus or the *louage*. But I think everyone agrees that *louages* are faster.

Thanks for clarifying which part of the circuit will be the most interesting—I wasn’t sure.

Now that I know which areas I’ll visit and the direction of my circuit, I’ll read travel guides, blogs, etc., in more detail. If I have any other questions, I’ll come back to you.

Thanks again for your help!

Good evening Michèle,

I just booked my hotel night for Saturday in Monastir and for Sunday in Tozeur. For now, I’ve planned three nights in Tozeur, but I’ll decide once I’m there. I made the reservation by phone without giving my credit card number. After those three nights in Tozeur, I’ve booked at Tamerza Palace (two nights for now).

The gentleman at the Tozeur hotel (Hôtel El Arich) was really nice and took the time to explain how to get to Tozeur. He recommended taking the bus instead of a *louage*. I’ll need to leave early because there aren’t many buses (or *louages* either). According to him, it’s easier to get to Tozeur from Tunis than from Monastir. For visiting the mountain oases, he advised going with a tour agency or other people from the hotel—public transport seems complicated. I asked if the *Lézard Rouge* is running, and he said no, but I’ll double-check once I’m there.

Tamerza Palace told me they can arrange a transfer from Tozeur—I’ll need to email them.

Hi Marie, your departure is indeed approaching... Maybe there’s more transport from Tunis to Tozeur, but it’s usually a bit fewer kilometers from Monastir. And on the way back, it’ll save you unnecessary kilometers. Oddly, I have the impression that the El Arish hotel has expanded—it used to be a small hotel. We often go to the palm grove, to the El Oued hotel. In Tozeur, you absolutely must visit Souad’s little museum in the Ouled El Hadef district. This neighborhood is really nice, with some lovely shops, and Souad is charming. It’s great to stroll around Tozeur, though you’ll see most of it pretty quickly. Three nights will also give you time to take a trip to Nefta. In the mountain oases, it’ll be different—the nature and its wild beauty. In ’69, torrential rains swept through and carried away the three villages. From the Tamerza Palace hotel, you’ll have a view of the old village—it’s just an amazing spot. Don’t hesitate to explore everywhere, including all three oases. I can recommend a guide in Chébika. Looking forward to this new trip...

We often go to the palm grove, at the El Oued hotel.

I can give you the contact for a guide in Chebika.

Hello,

The El Oued Hotel was my first choice, but I called twice and got an English message saying the number (76 46 30 36) doesn’t exist, and I can’t access their website, so I don’t have an email address. If you have another phone number or an email, I can try contacting them again.

I also called the Ras El Ain Hotel, which is part of the same hotel group as La Kasbah in Kairouan, but they were fully booked. I think they host tour groups, like La Kasbah does.

I’d love the contact details for the Chebika guide.

Have a great day.