A month in the French Alps: suggestions for camping and short hikes?

Hi there, We’re flying from Montreal to Lyon this August to go hiking in the French Alps. We’ve rented a car and will be staying at campgrounds. We’re planning to do day hikes and want to stay a few days in one spot, do a few hikes, then move on to our next camping spot. Could you share your favorite spots or any recommendations for places to spend a few days with great hikes?

A few details: We arrive in early August and leave in early September. We’re looking for day hikes (or shorter), moderate difficulty, with a cumulative elevation gain of no more than 1000m, and of course, beautiful scenery! We’d prefer not to drive too much—maybe it’s best not to head too far south and deal with unnecessary heat? Along the same lines, if you know of any great campgrounds where we can start our hike directly without needing the car, we’d love to hear your suggestions!

Thanks! :-)

Hello! The Alps are huge. Anything more specific?

Isn’t there a guidebook on hikes in Quebec?

Best,

Camping at: Ailefroide La Chapelle en Valgaudemar La Chapelle en Valjouffrey Saint Jean Saint Nicolas Ancelle

Hi Mathieu,

A few years ago, in September 2021, we fell in love with the "QUEYRAS" region in the Hautes-Alpes. We also did some short day hikes but stayed in guest rooms. So, I’d recommend this beautiful area to you.

If you’d like to get an idea of the region, I suggest checking out a photo travel journal I put together over 19 pages here:

https://spottingaviation.forumactif.com/t15027-carnet-de-route-dans-le-queyras-et-autour-octobre-2021

The part of the story focused solely on Queyras starts at image 57, page 3 and beyond.

Happy reading if you're interested! Cheers,

Puma2A

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I just read your travel journal about Queyras—a region I’ve been dreaming of visiting off-season for some easy hikes and photos! Exactly what you did. I was thinking of going in June or September, but I had no idea there were so many larch trees that turn such gorgeous colors. You also need the right weather...

Your super detailed and well-photographed journal made me dream—I’m used to greener mountains. Thanks!

I just read your travel journal about the Queyras... That journal made me dream—I’m used to greener mountains. Thank you.

Thanks to you, Noëlle, for your kind words. I think we were lucky with the weather; the following year, the region got rain at the same time. As I mentioned, we loved the Queyras. We might go back. Hope you make your dream come true. Cheers.

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Hi Mathieu, What a great idea to come hiking in my neck of the woods! 😉 Must-see spots for hiking: Haute-Savoie, of course—you’ll be amazed! Chamonix, Morzine, Annecy…

The only issue: timing! 🏴‍☠️ Early August (until the 15th), the sites are packed, and you won’t be able to just show up at campgrounds without a reservation… My advice: go for less crowded spots and head to Haute-Savoie after the 15th (bring a light sweater, as the weather can change. Though the forecast is 🤞🏼)

Good evening Mathieu, just a few suggestions. -I agree with Montagnard74 about campgrounds: it seems wise to book for the first half of August. -To find campgrounds, two sites: campingfrance.com and randocamping (in addition to Google). - To see varied landscapes (since you’re staying for a month), try spending a week in a Prealps range, a week in an inner range with major glaciers, and a week in an inner range without major glaciers. That’ll leave you another week to choose another range from one of these three types. -Example using the Queyras idea (from a previous post): Chartreuse, Écrins, Queyras. You can add the Clarée Valley and Briançon as a bonus. All of this with not too much driving. -Another example (so we don’t forget the Savoyards): Chablais, Mont-Blanc, Beaufortain, plus whatever else you’d like. All of that with not too much driving either. With more kilometers, you can also choose from the Savoy departments as well as Isère or Hautes-Alpes. From what I remember, in the Chamonix Valley, transportation is free. Also, in the Queyras, the inter-village bus lines are free: this lets you do hikes that aren’t loops or out-and-backs.

Thanks for the suggestions, I’ve got them noted! 😊

Thanks, ValMichel and Montagnard,

About the crowds, I hadn’t thought about making reservations... I wanted to be able to adjust the itinerary as we go. That’s what I did on three previous trips, cycle-touring in the Alps. But that was always in July. So, in your opinion, can I get away without reservations if I start with less popular spots, like Montagnard suggested? For example, could I manage without booking in places like Chartreuse and Les Écrins, or the Queyras, during the first two weeks of August? All your suggestions are welcome, thanks!

Hi! For the Écrins, which is a national park, the only accommodation option is mountain huts (refuges), so it's best to book in advance. Otherwise, you'll have to descend back down into the valley. For the Clarée Valley, there are several campsites, including La Vachette above Briançon. It has a pool! There are also campsites near Val-des-Prés. Further north, east of Névache, there’s a campsite in a place called Sallé, near Plampinet. Once you pass Briançon, you can head up to the Col des Ayes on the other side—there’s a beautiful campsite in the larch forest called Camping du Planet, close to the Col de l'Izoard. Otherwise, there are plenty of hiking options and lots to see—you won’t get bored! 🙂 In the Queyras, I recommend Château Queyras, an old fortification. There’s a campsite in the village, but bring food as there’s only a small shop. If you go to Sallé and Plampinet, you can hike up to the Chalets des Acles—a stunning, wild spot. From there, after a few hours of walking, you can optionally climb Mont Chaberton, built at 3,100 m altitude. It’s an impressive former Italian fort, nicknamed the "battleship of the clouds." However, it’s strongly recommended to start very early in the morning.

We don’t want to drive too much—maybe it’s not worth going too far south and exposing ourselves to unnecessary heat?

At higher altitudes, it’s obviously less hot. Keep in mind that for every 200 m you climb, the temperature drops by about 1°C. Even in August or September, you might see a few snowflakes at 2400 m :)

You can camp in the Écrins National Park without necessarily booking a stay in a mountain hut. Check the regulations here: https://www.ecrins-parcnational.fr/bivouac/

Some mountain huts have designated camping areas, for example: https://refugepredelachaumette.ffcam.fr/bivouac.html

Enjoy your walks among marmots, ibex, chamois, and more! https://lescs.fr/IMG/mp4/chamois_champsaur_hqx.mp4 https://lescs.fr/IMG/mp4/zone_ebouli_2.mp4

We don’t want to drive too much—maybe it’s unnecessary to push too far south and expose ourselves to the heat for no reason?

At higher altitudes, it’s obviously less hot. Keep in mind that for every 200 m you climb, the temperature drops by 1°C. Even in August or September, you might see a few snowflakes at 2,400 m :)

Yeah, I remember the Col du Galibier from a previous bike touring trip. We saw some snowflakes and it was really windy! We didn’t hang around the pass for long, and when we got to Briançon, the heat…🥵 We’ll have the right mountain gear. Actually, I was more worried about "roasting" in the campgrounds if we go too far south. Thanks for your camping and hiking suggestions—I’ve noted them down :) Do you think these places get overcrowded during the first two weeks of August? I’d love to get away without making reservations…

Thanks for the suggestions, Lecs! Actually, we wanted to stick to day hikes this time. We’ll keep the suggestions for a future trip :)

Hi there,

I’d suggest pretty much the same thing as @Lescs. While I love Haute-Savoie (Chamonix, Argentière, etc.), I’d avoid going there in August! The area is also quite densely populated... Unless you’re a mountaineer, I’d skip it. The Écrins National Park is packed with beautiful spots—I won’t go into details, just check them out online. https://www.ecrins-parcnational.fr/

Plus, you’ll have a better chance of good weather. It never gets too hot in the mountains! P.S. Short hikes and longer ones are possible everywhere in the Écrins. I particularly love Valgaudemar, Valjouffrey... Névache too, but avoid the Clarée Valley—it’s overcrowded in summer.

While I love Haute-Savoie (Chamonix, Argentières, etc.), I’d avoid going there in August! This department is also quite densely populated... Unless you're a mountaineer, I’d steer clear.

The peak season is really July 14th to August 15th—after that, it calms down ☺ And it’s still some of the most beautiful spots in France, objectively speaking 😉

And they’re still objectively the most beautiful spots in France

Yeah, even though I find the department itself too densely populated and too urbanized, no matter the season. The Hautes-Alpes are less crowded, and in terms of high mountains, the Écrins have their own 4,000m peaks! Barre des Écrins, Meije, Pelvoux, Olan, etc. I love their wilder side. Same for the Queyras, though it’s drier and more "Mediterranean." PS: I was in Passy last July ;)

Less known near where I live (from Grenoble): The Belledonne range (Isère/Savoie).. Avoid the Chartreuse and the Vercors (where I live) in the middle of summer because they're not high enough, so there's a risk of heat.

Avoid La Chartreuse and the Vercors (where I live) in the middle of summer because they’re not high enough, so there’s a risk of heat.

I get why you find Haute-Savoie so densely populated

I get why you think Haute-Savoie is so densely populated

The numbers speak for themselves: Population density per km² in Haute-Savoie: 195 😕 Population density per km² in Hautes-Alpes: 25

In the same vein, if you know of any nice campgrounds where we can start our hike directly without needing a car, please share your suggestions! Thanks :-)

https://campinglesbouleauxvalgaudemar.wordpress.com/departs-randonnee/ https://valgau.fr/randonnees/ Other easy hikes in the Écrins (Valjouffrey, Champsaur, etc.) https://destination.ecrins-parcnational.fr/search?practices=4

Hi Mathieu, for campsites during the first two weeks of August, I get why you’d prefer to avoid reservations. In France, some campsites require booking well in advance with deposits, etc. Others take reservations over the phone just a few days before, simply noting your name. You could try calling 2 or 3 days before your planned arrival. Since you’ll be in a car (so very mobile) and there are plenty of campsites around, if it doesn’t work out, you can hope to find backup options nearby. But if you want a specific spot on fixed dates, I still think it’s wise to book. In France, since COVID, the concentration of departures during the first two weeks of August (which was already high) has only increased. Here are 3 hikes that fit your criteria: - The Emparis plateau: start from Le Chazelet above La Grave for a loop (500–700 m elevation gain). Écrins-Oisans area. - Le Brévent: from Chamonix, take the Plampraz cable car up to 2,000 m, then hike round-trip to the summit (500–700 m elevation gain). You can also take the cable car all the way up. Common feature: both hikes offer balcony views facing the Meije massif (Mont Blanc range) on the other side of the valley.

- In Chartreuse, the Pinéa (or Charmant Som) from the Col de Porte or the road above the pass. You can combine both by starting from the road above the pass near Charmant Som.

these 2 hikes are balcony trails facing the Meige massif (near Mont Blanc)

Meige massif? Where’s that? There’s the Meije in Oisans (Écrins Massif), but the Meige?

Oh well! I should’ve written: these two hikes are balcony trails facing the Meije (for one) and the Mont Blanc massif (for the other). Nobody’s perfect.

PS: Oisans is spelled with an "s" as the last letter.

Thanks Valmichel, I was just thinking I might book a few days in advance for my next campsite. You’re confirming that’s possible—thanks for the detailed reply, and I’ll definitely note your hiking suggestions.

I’ll have to get used to the idea: we’ll probably need reservations for our first 2 or 3 campsites, then book the others a few days ahead. After August 15th, I imagine we’ll manage just fine without reservations. Like you said, with the car, worst case, we can just move to another campsite if one’s full.

And to everyone—thanks for all your suggestions, they’re really appreciated! If you’re reading this and have recommendations for nice campsites and beautiful day hikes (or shorter), I’m all ears! :)

Hi, I’m a bit late to the party, but I’ll second Puma2A’s suggestion to check out the Queyras. Obviously, in discussions like this, everyone’s a bit biased toward their favorite spots—so since I know the Queyras really well, I’d definitely recommend this beautiful area! Here’s a little link that might come in handy: Camping in the Guillestrois and Queyras – mountain camping in all seasons If you decide to visit the Queyras, let me know—I’ll share some great hikes (especially around Molines, which I know well!) Happy planning

I’m jumping in a bit "late to the party," but I’ll second Puma2A’s suggestion to check out the Queyras. Since I know the area really well, I’d definitely recommend this gorgeous corner of the world!

Hi Jean-Yves, Thanks for reading my reply to the original post’s request. If the author had paid attention, they would’ve seen the photos of the various hikes we did in this stunning region. Just to clarify: there are *tons* of hikes starting from pretty much anywhere you can park a vehicle in the Queyras. It’s always very well-marked with little yellow signs on posts. The region really goes out of its way to help hikers. You could easily spend 12–15 days there without getting bored. Perfect for someone who "doesn’t want to travel too far."

Cheers.

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Hi, Anyway, if the person who started this thread doesn’t end up visiting the Queyras after reading your travel journal and seeing those gorgeous photos showcasing the area... Huge props for your journal—it really makes you want to explore this beautiful part of France, where every valley offers tons of hiking possibilities!! (I don’t know the Northern Alps, so hard to compare! 😏

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