Storm in the Canary Islands

15 days across Gran Canaria, El Hierro, and a dash of Tenerife under the storm Thérèse!

The planned itinerary will be slightly disrupted...

(The version without discussions is here)

My holiday highway isn’t the one of sunshine, but rather the one of winter snows. We’re setting off under the aptly named March showers, the kind that dust the A89’s mountain passes white.



Not enough to stop us from arriving on time at the airport parking lot!

The EasyJet flight to Gran Canaria is now ready for takeoff. We watch Lyon disappear little by little through the clouds.

A few short hours later, the Airbus lands gently on the runway, and passengers soon rush toward freedom.



It’s late afternoon, the sun plays peek-a-boo with the clouds, and we’ve gained about fifteen degrees. Everything went perfectly so far—maybe too perfectly...

Where’s the car rental office?

Well, right there... Just at the end of this massive line...

We’ll have to wait over an hour before filling out our contract.

But we’re not out of the woods yet.

In fact, we only get a voucher to pick up the car at the parking lot. Another 45 minutes will be needed to get the keys to the Ford...

Cicar operates on a tight schedule on Saturdays during peak hours. A car is returned, washed, and rented out again immediately to a new arrival.

I think it’s better to book the cheapest range. In that case, any type of vehicle can be given to the customer. One traveler had been waiting for three hours because he’d requested (and paid for) a specific model...

We leave the airport at night and get a little lost in the area looking for a supermarket. We’ve rented a house in the heart of the island, in a village with no shops, and whose only restaurant will certainly be closed by the time we arrive.

Finally, we load a few groceries into the trunk—let’s drive to our place!

Round and round we go, twisting and turning... The average speed takes a big hit. One hour, 40 kilometers—that’s daily life, or nearly, on the island...

Here’s the village! We need to turn into this alley! Luckily, it’s one-way...

Parking here is a bit like LEGO—don’t worry about the bodywork. No big deal, the car’s rented with no excess, all dents and scratches included.

We enter the house—the outside looks great!



The inside is cozy, but it turns out to be poorly suited to the (relative) rigors of the Canarian winter. We’re at altitude, and the nights are cold!

We crank up the electric heater, have a quick dinner, and retreat under the covers.

See you tomorrow for a little more warmth?

5:57 PM for Agnès, 5:24 PM for Muriel! The travel journal timing is perfect!

Okay, let’s try not to mix up our journals.

By the way, are there any discounts for VF members in the Canary Islands ?

Anyway, Thérèse is here too! Did you see Muriel?

No known discounts for Vfisters in the Canary Islands! (If I had to choose, I'd prefer one for Iceland... )

I arrived a week before Muriel in Gran Canaria. By the time she got there, I was about to fly off to El Hierro.

According to the locals, the winter of 2026 was the worst in 15 years. They’ve never seen anything like it! !

I beat you to it... by very little 😏 Anyway, we were luckier than you with Cicar...

Cicar seems to be a bit of a victim of its own success some days! 🤪

We didn’t have to wait on the other islands.

Their all-inclusive system is really flawless! No stress at all!

Ah, you're back! 🙂

We did indeed rent a house lost in the heart of the island in a village

The village isn’t worth mentioning?

Cicar seems to be a bit of a victim of its own success some days!

I rented from them too. Inexpensive and reliable, but yeah, we also had to wait quite a while to get the car.

Boarding now for the Canary Islands. Oh, right—I was already there with Muriel. For now, you two aren’t exactly selling us the dream. Thanks for your travel journal (and all the others)

For now, you two aren't exactly selling us the dream. Thanks for your travel journal (and all the others)

Seychelles, Mauritius, Canary Islands—the feedback here hasn’t all been glowing 😕 Have the islands lost their appeal? 🙂

This village doesn’t deserve to be mentioned?

It’s just an average village whose main draw is that it’s fairly close to various hikes.

It’s called Cueva Grande.

So far, you two aren’t exactly selling us the dream.

It’s true that trips disrupted by weather rarely do. 🤪

The final verdict will come at the end of the travel journal. 😉

The islands wouldn’t have a coast anymore?

I think climate change has shifted the travel weather game.

Or maybe I’m just unlucky!

Bad weather in the USA (March), in the Canary Islands (March), in southern Spain (March), not great in southern Portugal (March), but sunshine and a t-shirt in Brittany (March...)!

An island without sun is like a meal without cheese—something’s missing!

That said, I loved my two previous trips to the Canary Islands (Tenerife, Lanzarote, Fuerteventura), which were in November. This destination wasn’t a default choice for me.

Bottom line: don’t go in March anymore!

Not in Brittany! 😄

In Thailand, the weather was pretty nice too.

We reluctantly slip out of the warm cocoon of our bed.

The atmosphere is decidedly chillier in the kitchen, and much damper on the terrace...

So, we have breakfast wrapped up in our fleeces, watching the rain trickle down from a hopelessly grey sky.

A quick check on a weather site reassures us about the next day.

Sunshine!

Should we book our access slots for the Roque Nublo trail? The morning slots are all taken, but there’s still space for the afternoon. Perfect!

In the meantime, what do we do today? It’s Sunday, market day in Teror. How about we head there?

Okay, but I spot a patch of blue sky toward the mountains. Let’s drive that way first before heading to the village!

We grab our K-ways and fleeces and drive toward Cruz de Tejeda. The Parador is shrouded in mist, just like the stunning view it’s famous for...

Still, we decide to climb a little higher and wait a few minutes.

It’s quite windy—maybe we can hope for a break in the clouds?

Luck smiles on us...





We enjoy the sunshine we’ve found as we head to the Pico de la Gorra viewpoint and then the Pinos de Gáldar one.



It’s still not scorching hot, but at least it’s bright now! !

Unfortunately, the clouds are now taking over again, and we arrive in Teror under a leaden sky.

The parking lots closest to the center are full, and the market seems to be quite popular.

We still manage to find a spot in a vacant lot that’s been turned into Sunday parking.

A few hundred steps later, the pedestrian street that forms the heart of the town opens up before us.



We stroll through it under a light Breton drizzle...

The street leads to a square where the village church stands tall.



It’s mass time, and the believers are out in force.



Though not as many as at the concert under the big top happening just behind.

Young and old alike are dancing—it’s a real party in Teror!

The market itself consists of a few stalls selling local products: cheeses, cold cuts, bread, fruits and vegetables, as well as the famous Teror sausage, served in sandwiches at every street corner.



Speaking of food, should we reserve a table at that restaurant with all the rave reviews?

The waiter tells us we’ll have to come back at one o’clock sharp and that the place operates on a first-come, first-served basis!

We take one last stroll through the stalls and return to the restaurant a little before the appointed time.





Luckily, there’s already a line, and we’ll be among the last to be seated for the first sitting!

The white wine isn’t bad, the Canarian potatoes are delicious, and the squid is cooked to perfection.

Only the octopus leaves the foodie in me wanting more.



Not because of the portion—it’s downright gargantuan—but because my taste buds weren’t exactly thrilled by the recipe...

delicious Canarian-style potatoes

The *papas*? Served with a spicy sauce? Damn, that’s good! On the other hand, my culinary memories pretty much stop there… well, it’s Spanish food but less varied.

We then left Teror for Arucas, a town of some importance famous for its neo-Gothic church built from black basalt.



All this reminds me of something...

Doesn’t it you?

While Teror was lively, here it’s a dull plain.





We didn’t linger here and headed straight for the ocean.

Our destination: Los Charcones De Bañaderos, huge natural pools completely deserted on this wintry day.

We were almost in Clermont-Ferrand, and now we’re almost in Saint-Malo...



Waves crash against the coastline, and the sky turns an ominous black.



I don’t mind this end-of-the-world vibe, but there’s no way I’d go swimming in these cold, turbulent waters!



After getting our fill of iodine, we returned to our lodging, where the terrace, jacuzzi, and lounge chairs would be of no use to us.

The radiators, on the other hand...

Maybe we should light the fireplace?

Yes, the wrinkled potatoes! 😉

We ate pretty well in the Canaries, at least in restaurants. In supermarkets, especially on El Hierro, the selection wasn’t great, and locals mostly bought the cheapest stuff. Things that fill you up but would make nutritionists and foodies scream (squared compacted cheese, reconstituted ham in the same shape... ).

Remember my feedback on Hawaii (especially Kauai) last year? I loved those islands so much! 🙂 Hope you remember since there were only a few readers and they’re all here 😏

Really pretty with the mist gradually lifting

So we’re having breakfast all bundled up in our fleeces, watching the rain trickle down from a hopelessly gray sky.

Pre-Thérèse doesn’t seem to have been much better than post-Thérèse

By the seaside, it was still okay!

Our mistake was renting too high up.

I think it's best to avoid the "high areas" for accommodation between December and April. 🤪

The meteorologists were right—the sun is shining this morning!



Too bad the temperature isn’t keeping up...

We’re getting ready quickly to make the most of this spring-like day and will soon head to San Bartolomé de Tirajana, a large town nestled on the southern slopes of the mountain range.

The streets are deserted. Either the area doesn’t interest anyone, or the vacationers staying by the sea haven’t arrived yet!





Given the lack of souvenir shops, I’m leaning toward the first option.

We’re now losing altitude and gaining a few welcome degrees as we take the scenic GC 60 road toward Fataga, a typically Canarian village.



The vibe here is way livelier, and it seems our German neighbors are particularly fond of the place.

It’s true—these white alleys dotted with cacti are absolutely charming!







The prettiest town we’ve visited on the island! !

What a beautiful blue sky 😎

After Tejeda, we stayed in Santa Lucía de Tirajana, not far from San Bartolomé. But we hesitated to take a trip to Fataga after a (failed 😏) hike... we should’ve!

Bad weather in the USA (March), the Canary Islands (March), southern Spain (March), not great in southern Portugal (March), but sunshine and t-shirts in Brittany (March...!) 🤪

Hopefully it’s not the same year!! 😏

And I think we’ll arrive at Roque Nublo at about the same time 😉

Bruno, there’s only one March per year (well, I think) 😏

Hey Agnès, shouldn’t we head back up to the Cruz de los Llanos parking lot? We’re gonna end up late for the hike departure!

Oops, you’re right! Let’s turn around!

The road’s pretty busy now. The late risers are finally out of bed, and the cyclists have already covered the kilometers down to sea level.

We weave between bikes, buses, and rental cars until we reach the restaurant we spotted.

We get there a little too late—all the sunny spots are taken. Oh well, shade it is with a sweater!

Full and happy, we get back behind the wheel to tackle the last winding kilometers to Cruz de los Llanos. The parking lot is huge—the authorities did a great job! We easily find a spot to leave the car for the duration of the hike.

Why park here when there’s a closer parking lot, you might ask?

Because the parking lot nearest to Roque Nublo was closed in 2025, it’s now forbidden to park on the side of the road, and the trail requires a permit!

Thanks to Muriel for warning me—I totally missed that little detail!

You can get the permit here (it’s free), and little hikers can save a few kilometers by taking a (paid) bus that drops them off at the old parking lot.

We choose to do the full route, though.



The hike starts with a long descent, then we follow the Los Hornos reservoir.





The trail then climbs up to the La Goleta viewpoint before we reach the employee checking permits.

He scans our QR code, and off we go toward the famous Roque Nublo!

Quite a few people are turned away—this new rule isn’t mentioned in older guides or blogs.

The big advantage of this quota system? Peace and quiet!

Even if you’re not alone, the hike doesn’t feel like a long conga line like it sometimes did before 2025!

I’m struggling a bit with the elevation gain, but it’s nothing too bad. That said, I wouldn’t call this hike a Sunday stroll (especially the long version). Moderate difficulty on my personal scale.

Our efforts are well rewarded at the top—both for the panoramic views and for the star of the island’s postcards: Roque Nublo.









The highlight of Gran Canaria—no cheesy pun intended!

We’re pretty wiped out by the time we get back to the car.

Luckily, our place is nearby, and we collapse in front of a cozy fireplace!



Maybe we should’ve made one last effort to climb up to Pico de Las Nieves?

We’ll find out later...

There’s only one March a year (well, I think so)

I think we can agree on that, but 5 countries in one month—I take my hat off to you!

Yes. 😊

I really hope it’s not the same year!! 😏

Ugh...😠

What a beautiful blue sky 😎

The most beautiful day of the trip until the second-to-last...

we hesitated to take a trip to Fataga

The village isn’t very big and is quite touristy, but it’s charming as can be.

Afterwards, if it had rained, I might not have felt the same way.

I really hope it’s not the same year!! 😏

Ugh...😠

Okay, I’ll shut up now 😕🏴‍☠️

Oh no! You know what they say—no love without teasing! ;)

Hello Agnès, I’m also heading to the Canaries... Gran Canaria was the first island we visited in the Canaries. We liked it, but then Tenerife, Fuerteventura, and especially Lanzarote—my favorite—convinced us it wasn’t the best 😅. The landscapes with the mist are nice, but hey, a bit of sunshine wouldn’t hurt either 😊.

Hi Isabelle, 🙂

We still have to visit La Gomera and Palma, but for now, the verdict on the most beautiful island leans toward....

Answer at the end of the travel journal! !😇

The only thing I can say right now is that our next trip to the Canary Islands won’t be in March! !

This spike is impressive! Great hike in any case

I spotted a viewpoint accessible via a trail on Google Maps.

Since the weather seems to be taking a turn for the worse from this afternoon through the rest of the week, I suggest we head there right now!

The closest parking is on the GC 600, a picnic area in the forest between Cruz de los Llanos and the entrance gate to the Roque Nublo trail.

The area is under construction, but it’s still possible to park there, which we don’t waste any time doing.

The weather is mixed—some sun, some clouds, but mostly a lot more wind, a wind that chills the air!

So we dress much warmer than yesterday before starting the planned hike!

The walk begins in the forest, nothing too complicated.

Then the trail starts to climb after the Bailico natural campsite.

We barely see anyone, even though this path is easier than the one to Roque Nublo!

Especially if you don’t follow the signs...

In fact, the sign tells me to turn left—a descent, meaning a climb later—while my GPS suggests turning right, which is more or less flat...

You know me—I go for the easy option!

This path is narrower and less clear, but it heads effortlessly toward our goal: the Ventana del Nublo.

The forest eventually thins out, and soon there isn’t a single tree left.

At the top of a small slope, the delicate stone arch comes into view, reminding us of another country...



The difference between Arches National Park (Utah) and Ventana del Nublo (Gran Canaria) is both the crowds and the price...

Crowds and dollars for one, near solitude and free for the other.

I’m completely charmed!

On one side, we can admire Roque Nublo, and on the other, Pico de Las Nieves.













Reluctantly, we turn back to head toward the other famous landmark in the mountainous part of Gran Canaria, Roque Bentayga.

This site was once home to a place of worship built by the island’s earliest inhabitants, but it’s the panoramic views that now draw visitors.

The start of the trail is a bit steep but still very easy.

Things get slightly trickier toward the end, making it inaccessible for those with mobility issues.

People prone to vertigo won’t feel very comfortable either.

I wasn’t expecting much—I’m really pleasantly surprised!













The views are stunning, there aren’t many people around, and it’s another great success on this last morning of relatively good weather.

Hunger gnaws at us on the way down. How about lunch in Tejeda?



We pick a restaurant at the entrance of the town, far from the touristy area.

The steak turns out to be delicious, but the service is rather slow...

It’s already past two o’clock by the time we start a digestive stroll through Tejeda.

So digestive that we still have a little room to try the local specialty: almond pastries!

Unfortunately, the weather takes a turn—the gray replaces the blue above our heads.



The wind picks up too—Thérèse is getting closer!

We leave charming Tejeda and its breathtaking setting under the rain, hoping to find some sunshine in the next village, Artenara.

You’ve got to be motivated to walk around there—it’s freezing now!



We take refuge inside the fascinating ethnographic museum of Casa Cuevas.





It’s amazing how well these cave dwellings retain heat.

And keep cool during scorching summers.

After the visit, we’re not really up for braving the elements and head back home.

Lighting the fireplace and turning on the heaters—the daily routine of a Canarian winter trip...

This arch looks familiar to me 🤪

I think I’d seen photos of it, jotted it down somewhere... and then completely forgot about it once I was there. What a shame! 😕

As for the Bentayga Rock, it was on the plan, but like I mentioned, the detour would’ve added an hour of driving (over 35 km instead of the usual 7 km on the normal route), so we skipped it. Actually, we *almost* (seriously, *almost* 😏) could’ve walked there from Tejeda. But then again, it’s surprising you didn’t spot the giant *cesta* if you took the road from Roque Bentayga to Tejeda...

instead of the 7 km via the normal road

I think it’s this rock that caused the road closure. 🤪

it’s surprising you didn’t see the giant basket

I must’ve been nose-deep in my smartphone looking for a restaurant. 😊

that arch looks familiar

There are several in the area. I also spotted this one on Maps, but it would’ve been too much for the same day (plus it’s harder to access).

Over the next few days, that kind of hike wasn’t really doable anymore...😕

That rock is impressive 😮 It's surprising there weren't more injuries—or even fatalities.

As for the arch, I honestly can't remember which one it was. It was your photos that made me think of it again... a bit late!

I think they closed everything beforehand. They know the island's geology and the risk of landslides in case of heavy rain.

I also noticed several signs along some roads that said "Closed in case of rain."

We didn’t experience any closures (except one) in Gran Canaria, but we did in El Hierro...

The weather at high altitude is bad today.

As it will be for the next few days, too...

So what's going on around here?

I check the forecast sites in more detail and realize that the Atlantic from Morocco to the Azores is at the mercy of Thérèse’s violent whims—a storm that, unfortunately for both locals and tourists, is strengthening instead of moving on.

Thérèse will overstay her welcome for over a week across the archipelago, causing significant damage: landslides, rockfalls, floods.

Roads will be cut off, flights diverted.

Torrential rains will mainly hit the islands of La Palma, Tenerife, and Gran Canaria but won’t spare El Hierro either.

Lanzarote and Fuerteventura will be less affected but will still face Thérèse’s onslaught.

The worst isn’t expected right now, though—just a few raindrops, a mostly gray sky, and cool temperatures should disrupt today in the "lowlands."

No mountain hikes for now; we can say goodbye to Pico de las Nieves.

I suggest Barranco de Las Vacas as an alternative!

Does that work for you?

When the thrushes aren’t around, the blackbirds will do...

The walk hasn’t been developed by the authorities yet, and parking is pure chaos.

We find a spot on the roadside a few hundred meters from the access point and head down to the canyon.

The walls soon close in, giving the place a vibe reminiscent of Antelope Canyon.



Like its Navajo twin, the barranco is a victim of its own success.



The charm struggles to shine between the less-than-ideal lighting and the crowds.

And we were among the first to arrive!

There’ll be way more vehicles by the time we leave.

Besides, the canyon only stretches for about a hundred meters. It’s a bit on the small side...

We then drive to Agüimes, a small town on the east side of the island known for its well-preserved historic center.







It’s cute, but like Barranco de Las Vacas, it’s more tempting in photos than in reality.

The next walking spot, Barranco de Guayadeque, turns out to be much more interesting.

Both for its landscapes and its restaurants...

We pick Vega for lunch.

We won’t regret it!

The specialty here is meat.

Specifically, pork.



Not bad at all—this well-grilled *secreto ibérico*!

We take a short walk to digest, then explore the lower part of the valley.









Maybe we should’ve come straight here?

I don’t really regret not seeing the Barranco de las Vacas in the end 😉 On the other hand, we hesitated about carrying on to Guayadeque… we should’ve. Not my brightest move on that one .

Yeah, Barranco de las Vacas is exactly the kind of spot that gets hyped up on Instagram.🤪

The wind really blew hard last night—our terrace is dripping, and the thermometer’s stuck below 10°C.

A day not to let a cat outside!



Well, we’ll have to go out anyway...

How about heading to Las Palmas, the island’s capital?

First, we make a little detour to the Bandama Caldera.

A fine rain and wispy mist dampen the mood, but the hike down to the crater’s floor must be nice in good weather.



For our part, we only go as far as the viewpoint halfway up the slope.



The drizzle stops just as we catch sight of the island’s capital.

We can’t be the only ones who thought of coming here—cars are parked on the hard shoulder for a good kilometer before the historic center!

That’s where we end up parking too, since there’s no space in the parking lot we’d spotted.

We start our visit of Las Palmas with its cathedral.

The ticket includes entry to the tower overlooking Santa Ana Square.

The monument isn’t unforgettable, but it does have a certain charm with its palm-tree-shaped columns.





Next, we’re drawn to the Casa de Colón, a beautiful 16th-century house with an interesting exhibit on Christopher Columbus’s expeditions.



After lunch at one of the city’s many restaurants, we stroll down Triana’s shopping street.







I was expecting a less ordinary city center—I’m a little disappointed.

We’re getting back in the car to explore the seaside of Las Palmas.

The air has a chill to it, the sun is playing hide-and-seek with the clouds, rain shows up every hour, and swimmers are few and far between...







We head back to our place to repack our bags.

Tomorrow, we’re leaving our mountain village for La Aldea de San Nicolás, a small town on the western side of the island.