3-Week Itinerary - Santiago, Fogo & Maio - Family of 5

Hello, We’re a family of 5 (2 adults and 3 kids who’ll be 2, 7, and 10 years old) planning to visit the islands of Santiago, Fogo, and Maio this summer. We’ll have 22 full days on the ground. It’s a shame (financially, logistically, and environmentally speaking!), but we’ll be taking 4 flights: a round-trip from Santiago to Fogo and another from Santiago to Maio. We’d like to position Maio toward the end of our stay since we enjoy ending our trips with a quieter beach phase.

For now, based on flight schedules and dates, we’re thinking of doing: 23/07: Arrival in Santiago 24/07 – 30/07: Fogo (5 full days) 30/07 – 05/08: Santiago (5 full days) 05/08 – 11/08: Maio (5 full days) 11/08 – 15/08: Santiago (3 full days) 15/08: Return to France

FOGO: Of course, we want to visit Cha das Caldeiras, where we’d like to spend 3 nights. We’d love to explore the valley and are also considering hiking the smaller Pico (the taller one seems too ambitious for us with the kids). Do you have any info on that hike? What else do you recommend doing on the other days? Where can we go for other walks? I’ve seen that it’s possible to descend from Cha das Caldeiras to Monteiros, but I’m worried it might still be too challenging. It looks amazing!! But how do we manage with our luggage? Otherwise, the north of the island intrigues me, though we’re not thrilled about São Filipe, even though we know we’ll have to spend at least one night there before returning to Santiago.

On this island, we initially thought about not renting a car, but I’m wondering if that’s a good idea for us with all the luggage. If we do rent one, is it easy to reach Cha das Caldeiras by car? Any advice is welcome!

MAIO: Here, I think renting a car will be essential for us to get around easily. We’d like to do an excursion to observe turtle nesting. I haven’t found much info on this—where and with whom should we go? Otherwise, the plan is to do some snorkeling directly from the beach, independently, since we’ll need to take turns so one adult can stay with our 2-year-old. Any spots you’d recommend?

Which towns would you suggest staying in? All options work for us—we’re fine with settling in one place or splitting our time (e.g., 3 nights in one spot and 3 nights elsewhere).

Basically, I’m open to all tips and recommendations for this little week on Maio (short walks, places to relax, beaches, etc.)!

SANTIAGO: Nothing too original, but for Santiago, we’re considering visiting Cidade Velha, Tarrafal, and Ribeira da Prata (for the black sand beach and natural pools), as well as Serra Malagueta for a hike. There must be so much more to do, especially with the time we have. What else would you recommend?

I’m struggling to figure out how to organize our time there since we’ll have 5 full days first, then 3 more. How would you do it?

Thanks,

Hello! What a wonderful idea to spend a family vacation in Cape Verde! First off, I think your day distribution across the different islands is pretty good. It’ll let you take your time on each island and not feel rushed, especially with kids. But do check based on flight schedules.

Here are a few possible answers to your questions:

FOGO: I’m not sure which "valley" you’re referring to? Otherwise, hiking up the small Pico from Chã das Caldeiras is totally doable with kids (even with your 2-year-old on your back). Because otherwise, yeah, hiking up the big Pico isn’t really feasible with kids that age. The descent to Monteiros is also quite a trek. It all depends on how used your kids are to walking. No worries about luggage—accommodations are used to sending it from one place to another (though it does cost, of course). Driving to Chã das Caldeiras is doable—the road is pretty good, but it’s a bit "long." São Filipe is a cute little town. It’s worth a visit, with lots of small parks and charming little squares. For the north, on the east side, you can take a walk around Achada Grande; on the west side, there’s Ponta de Salinhas (below São Jorge). When I went, it was pretty deserted, but I think a hotel has opened in the area.

MAIO: The first time, we walked around the island with a tent. But last June, we rented an AirBnB in the center of Vila do Maio, on the main street by the sea. That way, we were really close to the water and amenities, and we could cook and eat the fish we’d caught! ;O) Vila do Maio is slowly being renovated—cobblestone streets and all—there’s a certain charm to it now. And what peace and quiet! Outside of Vila do Maio and Morro, there aren’t really any lodging options. We toured the island by quad in a day.

SANTIAGO: Since you have 5+3 days, I think for the first 5 days, you can explore the more remote areas: Tarrafal, Serra Malagueta, Ribeira da Prata, Ribeira da Barca... and then spend the last 3 days near Praia and Cidade Velha before your flight.

Marie

Hi Marion,

Did you end up taking this trip to Cape Verde?

Could you share your impressions of Maio?

What were your favorite spots in Santiago?

Thanks in advance! 😊

Christelle

Hi Marion,

Did you end up making this trip to Cape Verde?

Could you share your impressions of Maio?

What were your favorite spots on Santiago?

Thanks in advance! 😊

Christelle

Hi Christelle, I’ll chime in with my thoughts too. I went back to Maio last year. I’d already loved it about ten years ago, and I enjoyed it just as much this time! It’s so cute and clean, with discreet but warm people, crystal-clear sea, a wild and still relatively untouched vibe, and a relaxing laid-back feel. A great place to unwind and recharge. ;O) You can explore the whole island in a day by renting a quad or a car. Ten years ago, we hiked around with a tent and self-sufficient (check out my travel journal). Last year, we took it easier by renting a really nice apartment on Airbnb—so we could cook our daily catch!!

Santiago? I’m not as big a fan. Still, there are some beautiful spots once you leave Praia behind. Make sure to visit Cidade Velha, the historic site, Tarrafal de Santiago, and the central part: Pico d'António, Serra Malagueta, Ribeira da Barca... Praia: it’s okay for a day or two to explore the markets and wander around this bustling capital. But otherwise, meh—too crowded, too many cars, too many mixed smells (some good, some bad), and too noisy for my taste. Happy to help! Marie

I went back to Maio last year. I had already loved it about ten years ago, and I enjoyed it just as much again! It’s so cute, so clean, little crowds, people who are discreet and a bit reserved but warm at the same time, crystal-clear sea, a wild side that’s still off the beaten path, and a relaxing laid-back vibe. A great place to unwind and recharge.

Still not as good as Santo Antão, though, right?

I think, Djalma, it really depends on whether you prefer hiking or snorkeling 😊. These are two islands with completely different vibes. I have a pretty good idea of what Santo Antão is like because there’s a lot of feedback about it. But Maio seems way more low-key.

Thanks so much, Marie, for your valuable feedback—you’re the Cape Verde "specialist"! 😊 And what do you think of Tarrafal, on Santiago Island, during the week?

It's not just the hiking... but the rural life, the farms perched on the edges of cliffs, the farmers with their donkeys. I've rarely seen an island where tourism—though fairly limited—has so little transformed rural life, altered the habitat, or changed the landscapes. On the other hand, I don’t know of any other place in the world where human labor for building roads, paved paths, and irrigation canals carved directly into the cliffs is so impressive! Truly the geniuses of public works!

Tarafal in Santiago was meh... a pretty average town with some sketchy areas, packed with people on weekends, and not exactly idyllic. We wanted to hike in the mountains starting from the end of the beach, but a cop advised us against it—some tourists had been mugged and robbed there.

In short, for me, it’s not worth it compared to Tarafal de Monte Trigo in Santo Antão, a real off-the-beaten-path spot that’s super peaceful. I’m sure if you saw both, you’d agree with me.

I’m sure if you saw both, you’d agree with me.

Yeah, I’m sure you’re right, Jean Michel, since we have the same tastes 😄. I definitely plan to come back to Cape Verde several times—there’s so much to see! My problem is that if I start with Santo Antão, the rest might feel disappointing compared to all the rave reviews! For this first trip, I just want to "soak up" the local vibe—not necessarily see the most beautiful spots, but the most "Cape Verdean," sipping caipirinhas to the sound of music if possible 😊

Another island I really liked—but totally different—is São Vicente. A beautiful and truly lively city: Mindelo, with its port, bars, and restaurants. Doing a tour of this island is definitely worth it—different landscapes at every turn. No caipirinha in Cape Verde, but grogue instead 🍹

No caipirinha in Cape Verde but grogue instead Yeah, I still don’t quite get the difference between rum, cachaça, and grogue, but I’ve got a feeling I’ll like it just the same 😄 And Montagnard mentions caipis several times in his travel journal, so it must be available somewhere 😉 Yep, I’ve got my eye on Mindelo too. So many choices to make!

Caipirinha = cachaça + lime and ice cubes In Cape Verde, grogue replaces cachaça 😊

Still not as good as Santo Antão, right?

It’s just not the same at all! They’re not comparable—it’s a completely different thing. Maio is incredible in its own unique way. That’s just my opinion. Besides, I find that each island has its own quirks, cultures, traditions, and vibe. Every one deserves a curious look. Maio is beautiful, tidy, wild, with shades of blue, gold, and red—dunes, waves, and adorable little villages, sometimes deserted like in Western movies! It’s one of my true favorites here. A peaceful place, far from the world and its hustle and bustle.

For this first discovery, I just want to "soak up" the local atmosphere, not necessarily see the most beautiful but the most "Cape Verdean", while sipping Caipis to the sound of music if possible 😊

Actually, the Caipirinha isn’t the most Cape Verdean thing. :O) I couldn’t say whether Maio or Santiago is the most Cape Verdean. Besides, that doesn’t mean much because all the islands are so different from each other. Cape Verde and Cape Verdeans are an incredible mix, and every island is different—people, their colors, their ways, traditions, landscapes, activities... It’s a very diverse archipelago, and Cape Verde is all that together. So, yes to Maio. Santiago, not as much. Tarrafal isn’t great as a town, but the beaches are nice. And it’s true that it’s the island where you need to be the most careful. Plus, it’s the island with the capital, so the vibe doesn’t reflect the other, more rural or fishing-focused islands.

Yeah, I still don’t get the difference between rum, cachaça, and grogue, but I have a feeling I’ll like them all just the same 😄 And Montagnard mentions caipis several times in his travel journal, so it must be easy to find 😉 And yeah, I noticed Mindelo too. So many options to choose from!

So many options! You’ll have to make multiple trips. But you could start with São Vicente and Santo Antão, then come back for the others! ;O)

It's a very diverse archipelago, and Cape Verde is all that combined.

I should’ve known—after all, I often say that "Paris isn’t France" 😄

It’s a very diverse archipelago, and Cape Verde is all that combined.

I should’ve known, since I often say that "Paris isn’t France" 😄

There you go! You nailed it!!! 😉