Planning a 15-day trip to northern Morocco

Hi there, 🙂

This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.

After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.

My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.

That’s a lot of cities. Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...

So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.

If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)

Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉

Thanks

Hi again Agnès

Basically, my plan would be to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.

That’s a lot of cities. Probably too many for our taste for isolated spaces...

Nice plan! I’d have loved to help, but my trips to northern Morocco are too far back in time. These past few years, I’ve focused more on the south, but I’ll actually be doing a trip similar to yours at the end of the year.

You’ll find those isolated spots between the towns/villages, especially around Tétouan, Chefchaouen, and Akchour. On the other hand, the coast near Rabat is… You’ll come back complaining about the concrete

I’ve never seen crowded beaches in Morocco! You’ll find quiet spots all along the way.

Hi Kate 🙂

I’m gonna take a trip similar to yours at the end of the year.

I don’t know if you’ve started looking for accommodations yet, but northern Morocco seems a lot less budget-friendly than the south.

Maybe that’s where well-off Moroccans go for beach vacations?

No, I haven’t looked yet. During my last trips to northern Morocco (Rabat, Fes, Meknes, Chefchaouen), accommodations weren’t more expensive than elsewhere. Maybe things have changed 😕

The itinerary is shaping up:

Direct departure to Meknes, 2 nights. Around Ifrane/Azrou: 1 night Fes: 2 nights Al Hoceima: 1 night Akchour: 2 nights Tetouan (via Chefchaouen): 2 nights Tangier: 2 nights Asilah or Larache: 1 night Rabat: 1 night

If you have any hiking ideas, scenic routes, or great restaurants along this route, I’d love to hear them! !

If you have any hiking ideas, scenic routes, or great restaurants along this route, I’d love to hear them!

hi! I’d still recommend bringing a fleece jacket or even a sweater—you never know ;) The cold air mass moving over France can reach as far as the Maghreb countries.

I’d still recommend bringing a fleece jacket or even a sweater—you never know ;)

No worries, Agnès is used to crappy weather when she travels But I think this time, in autumn, it’ll be amazing. It’s actually the best time to visit Morocco!

I’m thinking of bringing my bikini instead. 😛

Plus, it takes up less space in the suitcase, and easyJet watches those kilos!

It might still be a tad hot away from the coast, though...

So far, I’ve only been to Morocco in May or November.

It might still be a tad hot away from the coast.

In Fez and Meknes, it could be around 26/27°C, but in Tetouan and Chefchaouen, I’d be surprised if temperatures go above 23°C. In Rabat, it’ll be similar to Fez, but by the ocean, it feels different. That said, if you manage to swim: hats off! The water’s cold (well, maybe not for someone from Auvergne 😉). You’ll see, October is the best time to visit Morocco. Otherwise, your karma’s really not great!

Good evening Attila and Kate, sorry—I read too quickly and thought it was a departure for the coming days. It’s definitely true that autumn should still be pleasant

What a beautiful itinerary! Akchour and the small mountain roads near Chefchaouen are definitely worth the detour. Northern Morocco is stunning in the fall—enjoy your trip!

half-day hikes

Hi there, Jbel el Kelaâ (1,620 m) towers over Chefchaouen. The hike to the summit takes a full day and the end is quite tough, but if you limit yourself to the hamlet of Aïn Tissimlane along the way, you’ll get some stunning views of Chefchaouen and the surrounding Rif Mountains. A half-day is more than enough (loop trail). You might even spot some Barbary macaques in the forest. The trail starts behind Camping Azilane. PS: I have no idea what Chefchaouen is like now (since 1975!), but this little blue-and-white town is one of the things I loved most in the Moroccan Rif. Akchour and its waterfall, as well as the small fishing village of Oued Laou (very peaceful off-season), are also worth a visit. For beaches, the little resort of Al Hoceima had a certain charm too...

The water can reach around 24°C on the Mediterranean side. It's a tad warmer than in Mauritius, and it should be hotter outside. (I'm going in September, not October)

Okay, it's still a bit chilly but doable! (I swam in Agadir in November, but I was 30 years younger...🤪)

It's true you never know for sure. The climate is all over the place these days.

One year it was 40°C in May in Ouarzazate, the next year at the same time, barely 20°C and snow on the Atlas! !

I have no idea what’s become of Chefchaouen (since 1975!), but this little blue-and-white town is one of the things I loved most in the Moroccan Rif.

Jean-Michel, 50 years ago! Thank goodness you’re not giving out hotel addresses! Chefchaouen has lost its soul—it’s become a major Instagram destination, with sushi restaurants in the medina, packed alleys, and hundreds of souvenir shops… You’ve got to go off-season, stay in the medina (tour groups stay elsewhere), and wake up early… to find a bit of its gentleness, that incredible light, and the peaceful vibe of the Rif.

Sushi in Chefchaouen?! Well, I never would’ve imagined that! All I can remember are the broad bean tagines for 2 dirhams. Soon we’ll find braised ham or spit-roasted piglets! You’re talking about the medina... Back then, we couldn’t stay anywhere else since there was nothing but the medina. The accommodations weren’t exactly luxury hotels! A memory: One rainy day, I went to the cinema—not really to watch the movie... Oh yes, there was a cinema, but the real show was in the audience rather than on the screen, which you could barely see through all the smoke... from the many *sebsis*. 😉 If Chefchaouen has lost its soul, then I can imagine Ketama has kept its, considering I’ve never read any trip reports about that charming mountain town on the forum—even though it’s so welcoming. 😉 And for hiking enthusiasts (not just a stroll), there’s Jbel Tidghine... Peaceful Rif vibes guaranteed! 😏 https://fr.wikiloc.com/itineraires-randonnee/jbel-tidghine-2009-12-7-652568/photo-186771

I feel like you could say that about a lot of places mentioned in guidebooks, blogs, and forums.

Especially when heavily edited photos are prominently featured to lure in the suckers.

The flight ticket’s booked, the itinerary’s more or less set—I’m starting to reserve accommodations.

I’m totally stuck on Tangier...

Between parking the car, finding somewhere quiet, and the prices, it’s getting complicated.

I don’t want to spend more than 120 € per night, but even at that price, there’s always something off...

Anyone have any ideas? (Noise is the biggest deal-breaker)

I’ve also started booking. In Tangier, hotels are expensive and nothing really convinced me. I ended up going for an Airbnb apartment in the medina, in a supposedly quiet spot. There are parking lots all around the area, some supervised, some not, at a really low price. For Rabat, I’ll do the same. In Fez, I spotted a riad that looks nice. Same for Meknes.

I'm wondering if I might not go into exile a little farther away.

I'll head to Tangier for the day.

Check out Salé! It’s got a calmer, more traditional vibe, and hotels offer better value for money than in Tangier. That’s what you’re looking for, right? 😉 At the end of my trip, the day before my return flight, I’ll be staying in Salé.

In Salé to visit Tangier? ??

Yeah, sorry, I'm talking nonsense! Salé is next to Rabat. I do spend my last night there, but I've got a 2-hour train ride to get to Tangier.

I’m starting to wonder if I shouldn’t just splurge in Tangier.

The Kyrgyzstan budget is still nowhere near being exceeded...

500 € a night without breakfast, I’m not going there 🤪

And for me, regardless of price, this kind of hotel represents everything I don’t like. Sterile luxury, standardized, a cold palace like a showroom that I might appreciate at best as a quick curiosity visit—meant to impress but not to welcome.

Hi there, we were in Morocco in May and we actually preferred staying in Asilah—it’s much quieter, easy to park, and less than an hour from Tangier. The little seaside medina is really charming.

I still managed to find it a bit cheaper! 😉

You only live once...

This is the nicest luxury hotel in the area. What I don’t like is the number of rooms. Not very intimate!

Further down and even pricier, there’s this one.

The entry-level villas (well, for this place, anyway...) should be more your style.😄

I don’t know what’s going on north of Rabat, but honestly, I’m not finding much!

On my previous trips, I always found cool spots without having to pay European-level prices.

Now, I’m totally stumped!

Are there even vacations in Morocco in September?

Asilah was on the itinerary. But here too, I’m not really finding what I’m looking for. 🤪

Maybe I should stop reading customer reviews!

Are there holidays in Morocco in September?

Not at all. September is usually a quiet period. The summer season has wound down...

Maybe I should stop reading customer reviews!

Yeah. Or maybe you're just a *little*... demanding! 😛

Well, no.

I’m just looking for clean rooms with a bit of charm in a quiet spot.

I’ve always found them so far.

(And since we’re quickly hitting 100 € a night, I think I can be a little picky... Like real orange juice for breakfast and fresh stuff...)

I just figured out why there were so few options in Tangier on my preferred dates!

There’s a jazz festival going on.

Ah, got it. It must be important then! To have an impact on hotel availability... We arrive on the 21st, right after. Will you still be there?

I think it's the combination of weekend + jazz festival + low-cost flights from Europe that's driving up prices and reducing the available supply.

It's always like this. Every city that's usually accessible for next to nothing becomes expensive on weekends.

We're arriving a little before you. We should do the tour counterclockwise and almost end up in Tangier, avoiding weekends and holidays!

Okay, accommodations are booked (I can confirm that lodging is more expensive in the north than in the south...), now I'm figuring out the car rental.

Medloc and Yacout charge very high fees for rentals starting from Rabat.

Does anyone have another option to recommend?