Densha Otaku - A Southern Loop

Here’s my second travel journal since my 2017 one. You can check it out here if you’d like: https://voyageforum.com/forum/densha-otaku-passion-japonaise-d9177495/

This was my first trip back to Japan since the COVID lockdown. Between 2017 (with a short visit in 2018) and 2024, a lot has unfortunately changed. Economic and demographic shifts have led—and will continue to lead—to the closure of many rural railway lines. Fewer residents, fewer travelers, rising operating costs, staffing shortages, and increasingly precarious funding. Then there’s the ever-growing number of tourists who damage everything in their path and frustrate locals. Fortunately, there are still plenty of ways to escape the crowds, even if you do run into groups of Chinese tourists arriving by bus at the Mino Railway Museum or aboard a Kiha 120 crossing the Izumo-Sakane switchback. (Oops, spoiler alert—that’s for my 2025 travel journal.) We’ll see if PM Takaichi has as much success on the ground as he does in his speeches.

I’m lucky to love remote regions and places most tourists don’t know about. Taking public transport—mostly trains—and living like the locals do. That’s what my trips are all about. Those who’ve followed me on these pages know I love trains, especially older ones. These are becoming rarer in regular service, and Japan still isn’t ready to allow even certified museums to run historic trains on public lines, unlike many other countries. I even have my own license to drive historic trams, despite being an IT specialist in my day job. You’ll find some comments that clearly reflect my opinions and experience with the operation and rolling stock of certain lines—sometimes positive, sometimes not.

My trips are always intense. This isn’t about relaxing. It’s about discovering, blending in with locals, being welcomed by associations and museums, and uncovering things most people wouldn’t even imagine exist halfway across the world.

Sorry for the long intro.

Here’s day 1.

We leave Narita Airport and head to Tokyo’s Shinkansen station to board the new Shinkansen bound for Tsuruga. At this point, the line has only been open for two weeks.





We arrive in Fukui relatively late. We just take a few photos of the new station and its scenography.



Everything revolves around dinosaurs, whose fossils make the region famous. In the station square, an animated Tyrannosaurus Rex is described by our Japanese friends as an engineering nightmare.





We chose to stay in Fukui for the next few days to visit local companies. There’s enough to fill a week of sightseeing in the area if you want.

First activity of the day: Fukutetsu. We depart from Fukui Station square aboard one of their brand-new tramcars.



It still smells new. Built and designed in Japan, it features a fully low-floor design—a first for the Japanese industry. The company is proud of it, but unfortunately, it suffers from the common issue with this type of architecture. It doesn’t ride particularly well—it’s stiff and far less comfortable than the older models. People often forget that in "interurban tram," the word "interurban" matters, and a classic tram just isn’t suited for it.



Unfortunately, the weather is terrible, which really limits the chance of taking good photos. Still, we spend an hour at the depot, where old rolling stock has been restored and placed under cover as an exhibit. Since we’re in Japan, these vehicles will never run again, even though they’re technically operational. At least they’re preserved, and the No. 200 is under a shelter. When it comes to dynamic preservation of historic railway vehicles, Japan still has a long way to go.









The station building next to the depot, however, has been beautifully restored and now houses an exhibit with old photos and artifacts related to the line’s operation. In that regard, Japan is way ahead of us.





While the old high-platform rolling stock was decommissioned a few years ago, fortunately, a number of articulated tramcars from the now-defunct Gifu network remain. Though already old, these vehicles are remarkably comfortable and smooth to ride.

But Fukui isn’t just about Fukutetsu—it’s also about Eichizen. Another company with a more train-like vibe, whereas Fukutetsu feels more like an interurban tram.

In recent years, the collaboration between the two companies has allowed for a shared service on part of the line. This gives us the chance to see the difference in size between "big tram" rolling stock and small railway equipment.







The weather is still awful, but we decide to take our chances to snap some photos along the line.







The result? About ten photos of questionable quality and, most of all, a group of photographers soaked to the bone.

Back to Fukui—first on the Eichizen side, then the JR side.



We buy our tickets and make reservations for the next day at the station ticket machines.

Straight off, some good news. It's dry, even a bit of sunshine. A great day ahead for our trip to Takaoka and Toyama.



Takaoka doesn’t have much appeal for normal tourists, but obviously, we’re not normal—we love interurban trams. It’s in these kinds of places that you can really feel everyday Japan. We’re welcomed by the depot staff, who let us visit the inside, including the workshops. I should mention that we didn’t introduce ourselves as railfans (they’ve got plenty of those in the country, some completely nuts and undisciplined), but as colleagues from abroad for my part, and as a curator from the Odakyu Museum for our Japanese friend. They explain the challenges of maintaining and servicing modern vehicles due to the lack of parts that have to come from Europe, and that the older vehicles are sturdy but over 50 years old.









Stop to see the 5000 series motorcar, an old tram from the days when you could travel between Takaoka and Toyama by tram. Converted into a snowplow, then recently turned into a monument. It’s exposed to the elements even though it was retired in working condition. What a great museum piece it would’ve been...

As often happens, locals brighten up their daily lives. Here at the Naka-Fushiki stop, which is especially flowery and well-kept.

And of course, a stop at the bridge over the Sho River.

Second part of the day in Toyama. Here too, new developments since my last visit. The new station, the connection between the city and the Port tram, the urban loop. All new things to discover.

Of course, we also explore the rest of the network and the depot. Probably the most easily accessible tram depot in Japan, since it’s visible from the public road on three sides.









From now on, we’re on our own. Our friend Seichi is heading back to Tokyo for work. It was really handy having an interpreter on hand, but no worries—after so many trips, we’ll manage just fine on our own.

Early the next morning, we head to Tsuruga to catch the Obama Line.

From here, we’ll be traveling down the San’in coast. First up is the Kyoto Tango Railway.

And transfer by transfer, we’ll make it to Tottori by evening. A long layover in Toyooka will give us plenty of time for photos.

We’re entering the Kingdom of railcars. Especially the Kiha 40, 47, and 187.

One day in the mountains, under a magnificent sun, with cherry blossoms in full bloom. This time, we're really living the Japanese cliché. But of course, we're not going to do what everyone else does. Off to Wakasa,











then Sayo,

A return trip in stages from Sayo to Tottori, passing through Ohara and the Chizu Express depot.

Still managed to fit in some classic sightseeing at the end of the day with the Tottori Sand Dunes, followed by an evening at the castle during peak sakura bloom.













A great day all around.

Continuing the descent through the San'in region. Yonago, Hamada, Masuda. Then Yamaguchi in the dark. After a certain point, you just have to resign yourself to making connections. It's not possible to reach Shimonoseki by the coast. The line is cut off by a landslide in Nagato. Nor is it possible to go via Mine, also due to a landslide that occurred in 2023. I thought it was just a temporary issue, but since then we’ve learned that JR West has given up on restoring service on the Mine Line, that the line would be closed and replaced by bus service. Ugh, a bus. Total decline. Unfortunately, with Japan’s economic and demographic context, we should expect many more closures in the coming years. Some are already planned, others are being considered.

For now, the light is gorgeous this morning. We’ll make the most of it.

















A bit of shinkansen to reach our hotel. Tomorrow, we’re moving to a new area.

Welcome to JR Kyushu.



And a visit to the Mojiko Railway Museum.

Next up, Heiseichikuho. Another local company that’s also under threat.

And as the day goes on, the weather just gets worse. Not exactly ideal for my first visit. Looks like I’ll have to plan a second trip before it potentially closes.













Back via Nogata and the Chikuho line in weather that’s still just as awful.

Fortunately, the weather is much nicer this morning. Let’s start with an approach route on the Nishitetsu main line.





Then take the Amagi line all the way to Amagi.

Transfer to the Amagi Tetsudo line to Kiyama. (Still with me?)

We wanted to take the Yufuin No Mori. Unfortunately, it's fully booked. So we'll head to Yufuin on a regular train instead. Yufuin is super touristy, but in the late afternoon, it's still manageable. Let's just say it's one more line I can cross off my to-do list.











Not a bad connection with a Kiha 200 to Oita.

A crossing of Kyushu all the way to Kagoshima. Here on board a Ltd Express. We’re not making the most of it like we should. Should we replan and take our time? We’ll see for a future trip.



Arrival in Kagoshima for the umpteenth visit to its tram network. Still nice even though it’s well-known. A few new tramcars and still some old ones.

Did I ever tell you I really love taking night photos? It’s the perfect chance to test my new camera in these conditions. .

Now heading to Nagasaki, also well-known. But still always nice.

However, getting there has changed. New Shinkansen, new station.

This lets you focus on certain subjects and spend the time needed to get a great shot.

Thanks so much for all these photos of all these trains and trams. Another fascinating side of this country.

Two days of well-known spots in a row. Is there really nothing new left to do in Japan? Of course not—today it’s Shimabara. Or at least what’s left of it after several line cutbacks. No complaints, I love it.





While hunting for photo spots, we end up in quiet little neighborhoods that are really pleasant under the already warm—but not yet scorching—sun in late April.

A change of scenery—just a few hours on the shinkansen, and here we are in Osaka.

We were met by a friend of a friend who showed us around Hankai. But first, we headed to Ogaki for the Tarumi Tetsudo.

The Hankai with a local photographer isn’t bad at all. He already knows all the best spots.

Back to Ogaki, this time for the Yoro Railway. It’d be worth spending a bit more time there. The whole region, really. Gotta replan!

Let's dive into the Sangi Railway now. First up is the Hokusei Line. It runs on very specific rolling stock and has a 762 mm gauge—a rare surviving example of this gauge in Japan. This was once common in remote rural areas, but most of these lines were closed in the 1960s and 70s.









At the terminus, an old railcar from the line is on display.

We take the train back to Toin and then hop on this tiny bus from Hobo to reach the other Sangi line, all the way to the terminus at Nishi-Fujiwara, where various vehicles are on display.

Step-by-step return—first, Higashi-Fujiwara, hoping to see the trains carrying cement. We didn’t see much, but it’s definitely worth spending a few hours there. Need to replan.





Then, a private open-air museum focusing on freight wagons. It’s located along Nyūgawa Station.

Then it’s back to Kintetsu-Tomida,



A bit of Shinkansen to the hotel before a long day tomorrow.

First stop of this penultimate day: heading to Mino-Ōta to catch the Nagaragawa Railway.





Even though it wasn’t planned, the railcar serving this train is the same one used for special trains, discovery tours, and group visits. A beautiful railcar—comfortable and impeccably maintained.



We’ve entered Gifu Prefecture, a region almost unknown to foreign tourists but one that will always be a lingering regret for me. I wish I’d taken more time to explore it before the Gifu trams were discontinued. If I’d known, if I’d had the means back then, I would’ve dedicated almost an entire trip to it. We’ll try to console ourselves (or just get a little down about it, depending on the mood) by getting off in Mino and visiting the old Meitetsu station, which houses some iconic vehicles from the line.

Let's continue with the Nagaragawa toward Hokunō. Return to Mino-Ota on the railcar themed around the fish of the Nagara River, followed by a long journey back to Tokyo.

A complete change of pace—big city life. Not really my cup of tea, but it’s pretty much a must for shopping, seeing friends, and witnessing a revolution. The country’s first new tram line since the war. Super modern, super functional, it connects Utsunomiya Station to the industrial district, mainly frequented by Honda workers and their subcontractors. And here we are, right in the middle of the Japanese paradox.



Infrastructure? Check. Rolling stock? Check. Operations? Check. Public success and ridership? More than check. The line opened just under a year before my visit. All the drivers are new since the line is brand new, and so are the trams. Of course, it takes time to get the hang of things—learning to drive doesn’t happen in a week. Well, moving the tram, sure, but *actually* driving? Not so much. But almost a year to get comfortable? They were taught to be afraid before they were taught to drive. Limited to 40 km/h when everything allows for 70 km/h outside the city. Honking and braking at the slightest pedestrian or intersection. No priority at traffic lights. I know, it’s the Japanese mentality—one that’s even spread to the Western world over time. But for someone like me, who learned to drive from old-school instructors, it’s baffling that they’re not using this line more efficiently. Sure, my friends tell me that after a break-in period (almost a year, though), the speed limit will be raised to 70 km/h, that drivers need to learn, and that there’s the Japanese public transport law with all its regulations dating back to the early 1900s. But come on—when are they going to adapt the rules and mindsets to today’s technology?









It’s on this existential note that we head back to Tokyo to spend the evening with friends at an izakaya located practically on the Arakawa tram platform. Arakawashako-Mae—literally “In front of the Arakawa depot.”



Tomorrow, it’s shopping and then off to Narita in the evening. That’s how my 10th trip to Japan comes to an end. The first was in 1993, and the next will be in 2025. Another travel journal in the works!

Thanks to all the readers who stuck with me till the end. Japan remains, for better or worse, a magnificent obsession for rail enthusiasts.

I still remember that trip in 1993 and the week we spent in Kurashiki, visiting the Seto Ohashi, Shikoku Mura, and, above all, Hiroshima and its trams. For me, it was the third of my eight trips.

Next up, Heiseichikuho. Another local company that’s also under threat. Gonna have to plan a second visit before it possibly closes.

Unfortunately, the closure is confirmed. The line will be replaced by a bus service, but there’s no date yet (though it won’t be before April 2027, according to the official announcement).

I’ve gotta ride it at least once too.