The Nakasendo
“We want to see the wizard, the wonderful wizard of Oz,” sang Judy Garland. Some people won’t get the reference, oh well—but as I walked that paved path winding through the hills, that tune kept playing in my head, even though I wasn’t wearing ruby slippers.
The Nakasendo was “the road through the mountains” that connected the old capital, Kyoto, to the city of Edo (now Tokyo) during the Edo period (17th–19th century). Only a few original sections remain, restored, where you can still hike today. That’s exactly what we did, and we loved every minute of it.
Below is the route we took—just under 20 km on foot, crossing hills, valleys, deep ravines with cascading waterfalls, and majestic forests. A stunning landscape with countless viewpoints. Experienced hikers could do it in a day, but we split it into two, with a lovely stopover in the beautiful village of Magome.

Our hike started at Nakatsugawa Station, where we arrived around 11:30 AM (coming from Hakone via Nagoya). After grabbing some picnic supplies, we quickly found the Nakasendo, which is very well marked. We were traveling light—our big bags had been sent ahead 24 hours earlier from Tokyo straight to Matsumoto, so we only had small backpacks for 3 days and 2 nights.
We left the inhabited areas behind and ventured into the countryside. We stopped here and there, passing a few hikers going the opposite direction. A group overtook us, but we took our time, enjoying the spring-like sun—even though it was October 31st! The scenery was breathtaking. What did it look like three centuries ago?
With all our stops and not being seasoned hikers, we arrived in Magome-juku around 4 PM. The village, straddling the Nakasendo as it climbs almost straight up the hill, was a prosperous post town during the Edo era before fading into obscurity when the Nakasendo was replaced by other routes (and the train). But its revival came decades ago, thanks to hiking tourism. It now appears just as it did in the 18th century, beautifully restored.

A perfect spot for an evening and overnight stay in a traditional inn.
The next morning, we set off again under bright sunshine. The toughest part for us was the trail up to Magome Pass (though for experienced hikers, it’s a breeze).
After the pass, we crossed vast forests. The tall, slender trees let the sunlight filter through, making the paving stones glisten. The Nakasendo looked like a long silver ribbon (and yep, Judy Garland was back in my head).

The path was sublime. We stopped at the Tateba teahouse and took a detour to admire the waterfalls.
This is also where I should mention Tanuki. It’s when you’re walking that you notice the little details, and that’s when I really started spotting these ceramic figures. I saw them everywhere afterward—outside shops and restaurants, but also in the countryside, next to the gate of an isolated house, always strategically placed to welcome visitors and bring luck and prosperity to the business or household.

At first glance, Tanuki might not seem like much—it’s actually a real animal, the raccoon dog, which looks like a badger or raccoon but is a canid. It’s also a *yōkai*, a forest spirit. It’s depicted with comically oversized testicles (I’ll get back to that) and various attributes: a straw hat to ward off trouble, a sake flask (it’s a fun-loving creature), and an empty purse (it’s not always good at paying its debts).
Tanuki has some impressive magical powers: it can shapeshift (turning into objects or other animals), its round belly serves as a hypnotic drum, and—most importantly—its testicles have multiple uses. It uses them as weapons, tools, fishing nets, umbrellas, even parachutes! According to unverifiable sources, it can stretch them to cover an area of 8 tatami mats… or even 1,000. Not bad. Either way, I found it oddly endearing.
By early afternoon, we reached Tsumago-juku, another gorgeous village. Perfect timing, too—the sky had clouded over, and rain was threatening. We took a bus to Nagiso Station, then a train to Matsumoto. We couldn’t wait to explore the Japanese Alps!
The high hills gradually gave way to mountains. Trains are often the best way to soak in the scenery, and we were spoiled—the autumn colors were just starting to take over the forests.
We’re on the train, and we’re LOVING it.

To be continued!