Argentine and Chilean Patagonia from El Calafate to Ushuaia

This travel journal summarizes a trip I took in March to Argentine and Chilean Patagonia. It starts in El Calafate and ends in Ushuaia. During my planning, I considered looking into the Australis cruise from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia, as well as the W trek in Torres del Paine National Park. In both cases, I was put off by the prices. Instead of the cruise, I found two interesting wildlife excursions from Punta Arenas: whale watching in the Strait of Magellan and observing king penguins in Tierra del Fuego. The journey to Ushuaia was by bus. For Torres del Paine, things were a bit confusing, so I reached out to two agencies. In the end, I went with a rental car option, overnight stays on-site, and day hikes. I shared my full itinerary with the agency and ended up being taken care of by a local Argentine agency and a Chilean one. So, here we go...

Day 1 at Perito Moreno Glacier. I arrived the day before, and here I am in the morning at my hotel in El Calafate, waiting for the excursion bus to the glacier. Problem—it doesn’t show up. So I call the local Argentine agency, introduce myself, and they send a backup taxi to take me to the glacier, where I join the group an hour late. Right from the start, I realize I’m at a remarkable site—the creaking sounds of the glacier are impressive. At Perito Moreno Glacier, everything is well set up; you walk on walkways connecting numerous viewpoints. The views are breathtaking. In two hours, I’ve walked along most of the 3-kilometer ice front. In the afternoon, I board a boat to get closer to the southern side of the glacier. This mass of ice is just as impressive from the boat.







Day 2 in El Calafate. I have the whole day before taking the evening bus. From the hotel, I set off on foot for my visits. Early arrival at the Laguna Nimez wildlife reserve. Unfortunately, entry is only payable in Argentine cash. And I don’t have any—just US dollars in my pocket. I backtrack to a small museum on the history of southern Patagonia. A few dinosaurs and a room about Indigenous peoples.



Then I head toward Lake Argentino to take some photos. Once in the city center, I withdraw Argentine money from a local ATM with high fees. I take the 1:30 PM shuttle to the Glaciarium, which opens at 2 PM. The visit lasts about an hour for me. I learn that Perito Moreno is part of a vast glacial field in this southern part of the Andes.





Back in the city center, I return to Laguna Nimez. Not much to see without binoculars since the birds are far away. A few geese and ducks. Suddenly, a fox emerges in front of me. It sniffs around, ignoring my presence. It disappears just as quickly as it appeared.



In the evening, I take my bus that joins Ruta 40. Lots of rheas and guanacos along this pampa road.

Hi there, and thanks for this travel journal. Climate change continues its work: the Perito Moreno is now almost tiny compared to what it once was. I had the same sad feeling when I saw recent photos of the Uppsala Glacier in the same area.

Thanks for this travel journal—it’s gonna bring back all the wonders of Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego for me. You’re right, the Perito Moreno has really shrunk. I went back in November 2023, and it was much closer to the walkways...

I went back there in November 2023, and it was much closer to the walkways...

Over a 6-7 year cycle, the distance shifts from back to front until it reaches the observation hill (if that’s still the case with global warming...) before the ice forms an arch that eventually breaks because it’s slowly eroded from below by the river flowing from left to right, pushing the glacier’s front back to its starting point. So, it’s understandable that over a 3-year gap, you might not have seen it at the same distance. What I was mainly referring to was its significantly reduced width.

When I arrived in El Chaltén, I had some questions about the order of the hikes based on the weather. I opted for safety with my bus departure at 6 PM, so I decided to do the shortest hike last. Days 3 and 4. Here I am at the paid entrance of Los Glaciares National Park to do the Fitz Roy Trail. Note that if you have the Perito Moreno entrance ticket, you get a 50% discount (once). Pay in advance online or on-site in Argentine pesos. The hike starts with a climb up to a viewpoint with a clear view of the Fitz Roy massif. There are a few clouds on the granite peaks. Then it’s mostly flat until the campsite at the foot of the final steep section. Since there wasn’t much distance left, I thought it would be quick, but a sign indicating 2 hours told me otherwise. Count on 1.5 hours if there aren’t too many people slowing you down. Once I reached the lake with the pretty viewpoint, I noticed the clouds had almost cleared. Perfect timing! The hike from the hotel takes 8 hours (24 km and 1,000 m elevation gain).

Laguna de Los Tres

The next morning, I set off on the Torre Trail. It’s a bit similar to the previous day’s hike but with far fewer people and no grueling final climb to reach the lake. The view is debatable—the Fitz Roy is a more stunning rock formation, but at Laguna Torre, there’s a high-quality composition with a view of a nearby glacier. I got back to my hotel around 4 PM with no stress about catching the evening bus to El Calafate.







Laguna Torre

Day 5: transit from El Calafate to Puerto Natales in Chile. The bus is comfortable, and I have a clear view above the driver. I can enjoy the pampa landscape, rheas, guanacos, and the brave cyclists. The road heads toward the Torres del Paine massif before turning south to eventually cross the border.



Ruta 40

I arrived in Puerto Natales with plenty of time to explore. The town is located by the Pacific (which I first mistook for a lake). I have a meet-up with a guide from a Chilean agency, and we go over the itinerary for the next few days in Torres del Paine National Park, which I’ll stick to since the weather is great.





Day 6, I set off by car for Torres del Paine National Park. I pick up my rental vehicle just a short walk from my hotel. I’d been warned that my Visa card might not be accepted in Chile, but that wasn’t an issue. I think the rental agency even thought I was a bit odd for coming the day before to check things out 😎. The vehicle is pretty big for someone my size, but it turns out to be essential for two reasons I didn’t know about at first: this kind of SUV has a sport mode that’s really handy for rough, uphill tracks, and it has a range of 700 km—there are no gas stations within a 60 km radius of the park! That might seem like a lot, but I ended up using 600 km of that range!

I take Route 9 toward Laguna Azul. Soon, the first viewpoints appear at Lake Sarmiento. The paved road gives way to dirt tracks. From Laguna Azul, you can see the mountain range and the granite towers, though they’re still a bit far off. Along the way, we spot guanacos that aren’t too shy. The park entrance is at the northern gate, Laguna Amarga. No cash here—you pay at a machine with a card. I continue to the Nordenskjöld viewpoint. What an amazing spot! Further on are the Salto Grande waterfalls. I set off on a walk along the lake to reach a nearly perfect reflection of the Cerro Paine Grande and Los Cuernos massifs. It’s an exceptional day with no wind. I keep going along the track to Lake Pehoé and its small hotel on an island. From there, I reach the Condor viewpoint, which offers a stunning panoramic view on a clear day. Lakes Pehoé and Sarmiento, as well as the entire massif, are clearly visible. All that’s left is to head to my hotel, located just past the southern gate, Río Serrano.

Lago Sarmiento

Laguna Azul

Guanaco



Reflections on a windless day at Mirador Los Cuernos

Panoramic view of Lake Pehoé from Mirador Condor

Sunset from the hotel

Day 7, a big hiking day. The weather is gorgeous, and I’m really excited. The bad news of the day is the cost of the takeaway picnic meal at 30 USD. I think there’s a grocery store in the village, but I can’t be bothered to go with these rough roads. Unfortunately, it takes 1.5 hours of driving to reach the Las Torres Hotel, the starting point of the hike. On the way, I pass by the pretty viewpoints again with different lighting.

The view from Lake Pehoé

The Nordenskjöld Lake viewpoint

When I arrive at the starting point, there are a lot of people, especially those checking in for nights on the W trek. I start the hike a bit lost in the crowd. There’s a suspension bridge to cross the river, with a maximum of two people on it at a time. Waiting time is about 15 minutes. After that, the trail goes up and down, overlooking a river.



Up to the base camp of the W trek. Then further on, we come across the campsite at the foot of the final steep climb to the viewpoint. It takes about 1 hour 15 minutes to ascend, with lots of people. At the top, the view is exceptional. I loved this granite rock cirque with a massive base veined with some other rock emerging from the small mountain lake.



I understand why everyone rushes up there in good weather. Looking back, I see this long procession of climbers like a chain of ants. The descent is tough with all the people. I return to my hotel with a smile. A tough day with 3 hours of driving and 8 hours of hiking (22 km and 1,300 m of elevation gain). I really enjoy the sunset from the hotel in the evening. The food there is also very good. Day 8, the rain makes its appearance. A fine rain accompanied by some low clouds. Not great for hiking, but luckily, I don’t have any planned today. I head to the Lago Grey Hotel to board the tourist boat that sails to the foot of the Grey Glacier. It’s a large glacier but not as spectacular as the Perito Moreno.





Day 9, the last viewpoint from the Ferrier viewpoint. A short climb that offers a nice panoramic view of the west side of the park, including the Grey Glacier seen from above this time (but from a distance).

Climb to the Ferrier viewpoint

The Grey Glacier (zoomed in)

In the afternoon, I head back to Puerto Natales. The road remains rough almost all the way. I visit the Milodon Cave, home to an extinct species of giant sloth. Via a few short trails, you can access two other caves.



I return my vehicle (no flat tires, in good condition, and thoroughly inspected) and spend another night in Puerto Natales.

Day 10, in the morning I take the bus to Punta Arenas. A larger city that borders the Strait of Magellan, which marks the southern continental limit of South America. It was founded as a supply stop for ships and later expanded with a gold rush. I explore the city at a leisurely pace: coffee, museum, palace.



Palacio Sara Braun.

In the evening, I stumble upon a luxury car tourism group doing the Andes Route—pretty much the same route as mine but over seven days and at a very different price.

Day 11, I have a whale-watching tour with an early departure at 4 AM. It’s popular, so there’s a crowd at check-in. After a 1-hour bus ride south, we board a boat on the Strait of Magellan. The goal is to spot whales and dolphins in the Francisco Coloane Marine Park, which is a 2-hour boat ride away. For me, it’s all about getting a photo of a whale’s tail. Why, you ask? I’ve had plenty of chances to see cetaceans—orcas, sperm whales, dolphins—but never whales. A gap in my wildlife encounters. During the morning, the whales stay a bit far off. Only the sea lions are playful. Still, I manage my first tail shot. Then we approach a cormorant colony and a glacier. They serve us a picnic lunch on board, and—surprise—it’s the same one sold for 30 USD in Torres del Paine. Mass-produced, yet sold at a premium. Finally, on the way back, we spot the whales again, closer this time, and I get more photos.

Hi Raymond,

I’m loving it—the landscapes are stunning!

Hello. Thanks to all my followers. Yes, the reputation for beautiful landscapes in Patagonia is well deserved.

Day 12, another wildlife excursion heading to the king penguin colony. We all know the emperor penguin in Antarctica. Its cousin, the king penguin, is only slightly smaller and can be seen in Tierra del Fuego in the bay called "Useless" by the English navy. It's a long minibus ride with a stop at an abandoned estancia.



Still spotting rheas (and guanacos) to liven up the road.

Then a ferry crossing to Tierra del Fuego, and we finally reach the destination around 1 PM. The penguins are right there, and the observation is long and easy. The penguins live their lives noisily. Suddenly, I see a couple coming from the land to join the colony. Their gait and hesitations are so amusing.









On the way back, we have a late lunch in the town of Cerro Sombrero. A good meal and a chance to chat with two Americans.

Day 13, a long bus day from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia. I’m retracing the exact same route as the day before because you have to go through Tierra del Fuego and take the same ferry anyway. After 12 hours on the road, a border crossing, and a few stops in Río Grande and Tolhuin, the bus arrives in Ushuaia in the evening.



Street scenery in Ushuaia

Good evening, I’m retracing the route with you all with great pleasure. I went to see the king penguins through an online agency (Denomades)—did you do the same, or can it be done on-site? The question often comes up on forums: it seems there still isn’t a bus between Porvenir and the reserve?

Hi there

In Punta Arenas, TurismoSelknam took me to the reserve. Pick-up right at the hotel starting at 7 AM. They have an agency downtown (in a residential building).

https://turismoselknam.cl/en/tour/tour-full-day-tierra-del-fuego-parque-pinguino-rey/

I didn’t go to Porvenir. I took Bussur, which serves Tierra del Fuego—the buses went up top and crossed via the small ferry on Route 257.

Day 14 in Ushuaia. This morning, an excursion to discover Tierra del Fuego. The first part is dedicated to the tourist train from the Fin del Mundo station. Loads of tourists (mostly Asian). It's an old convict train repurposed for tourists.





I don’t have a ticket to take the train and settle for photographing it from the departure station. My guide, who’s really nice, takes me to a clear spot near the arrival station to photograph it along the way.



Next, we wander along walkways above the peat bogs, by the Pacific Ocean or the local forest. In the end, there are only about 3 hours left for this part exploring Tierra del Fuego’s flora, which is more educational than the convict train.



Zaratiegui Bay and the old post office In the late afternoon, I visit the naval museum located in a former prison.



The museum is large and covers various themes, including a hallway dedicated to the indigenous Selknam or Yamana peoples, which piques my curiosity. You can also find references to these peoples on the walls and in front of shops around town.

Selknam initiation rite



Back in France, I get the book "Uttermost Part of the Earth" by E. Lucas Bridges to learn a bit more about these vanished peoples.

Amazing write-up. Thanks so much for all your info.

Gorgeous photos

Thanks for the encouragement! But here we are already on the last day.

At dawn, the cruise ships are getting ready for expeditions to Antarctica.



Day 15. A day cruising the Beagle Channel. Another tourist boat, same old format. Comfortable inside, windy walkways outside. From Ushuaia, we head to the "End of the World" lighthouse on its rocky outcrop.



It’s the perfect opportunity for a long selfie session. Professional photographers offer their services for a nice souvenir photo. Lots of takers in a great atmosphere. Then we move on to observing animal colonies: sea lions and cormorants first.





Next, we reach a large penguin colony. I spot two types: the gentoo penguin with orange feet and beak, and the Magellanic penguin in black and white. Both species are smaller compared to king penguins. We spend a lot of time watching the gentoo penguins coming and going from the sea to the shore.

The colony

Magellanic penguin





The fun gentoo penguins

Finally, from the boat, a last look at Ushuaia to wrap up this Patagonian trip.

Thanks everyone!

For spoiling us so much, thank you.

Oh, one last thing—you can view all the photos at

http://raymond.ostertag.free.fr/voyages/patagonie/index.html

The site isn’t secure (http), so your browser might block access.

Thanks for this travel journal and these beautiful photos that are dreamy! 🙂

Thanks Raymond, it was a real pleasure reading your post.

Hi Muriel,

photos that inspire dreams

Yes, the Aston Martin brand also inspires dreams for many others—unfortunately, not everyone has James Bond’s budget... 😉

Bonjour Raymond,

Sincères remerciements pour ce magnifique et original reportage . Vos Images de haute qualité , nous transportent sur place .

Salutations .

Puma2A

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