Looking for opinions and advice on Sri Lanka itinerary with Mumbai extension

Hi there! 🙂

We’re heading to Sri Lanka for 23 days in January 2027—there are four of us—and we’ll wrap up the trip with 5 days in Mumbai. Our itinerary is coming together, but what do you think? (We can’t change the dates since our flights are already booked.)

We still have one night to slot in, and I’ve tentatively planned it in Tangalle, though it was a bit random. Would it make more sense to place it at a different stop? Or is there an intermediate stop I might be missing?

I’ve got accommodations sorted everywhere except Mumbai—it’s a nightmare (either way too expensive or really dodgy). By default, we’ve spotted the Residency Hotel Fort, but 70 € a night (with a discount) for a hotel that doesn’t offer anything special in India?!

Thanks so much for your help!

Hi Kate,

From Mumbai, don’t forget to swing by the nearby Elephanta Caves. 😛

I think this megacity has been expensive for a while now. I had to pass through about a dozen years ago, and prices were already much higher than elsewhere in the country.

Maybe your travel dates coincide with an event there?

Maybe your travel dates coincide with an event over there?

Remember Tangier? 😏 No, no event as far as I know—just a festival that ends 3 days before we arrive.

70 euros—I don’t think that’s expensive for one of the country’s main cities, especially in a part of the world where squalor is common.

If I didn’t pick the wrong hotel when I checked, it’s well-located for sightseeing, and the rooms look decent.

Personally, I’m in the middle of booking for Norway, and at 70 euros, you won’t find anything… not even a private room with a shared bathroom in the hallway…🤪

I’ve been reflecting on my recent trips to India... To give you an example (and there are others!), this gorgeous hotel in one of the most touristy cities, Udaipur. The room is now 33 €. https://www.booking.com/Share-2vkOdJ

Udaipur isn’t the country’s biggest city or a major financial hub! ;)

It’s like comparing prices in Paris and Clermont-Ferrand.

Hi Kate,

It's true—Mumbai has always been much more expensive and an exception in India when it comes to accommodation. I've been there three or four times, the last time at least 12 years ago, and for a basic, somewhat questionable-cleanliness room (one of the cheapest near the station), I was paying four to five times more than the equivalent in Delhi! There were slightly cheaper options, but they had no bathroom and were always fully booked... So, unless you're really willing to spend, don’t expect much from hotels in Mumbai.

I’ve never stayed at Residency Fort, but it’s impossible to miss when you walk down the main avenue in Colaba. It’s in a perfect location and has a pretty good reputation—sounds like a great choice to me.

I really love Mumbai’s vibe—it’s so different from Delhi or other big Indian cities. While hotels are an exception in terms of cost, everything else isn’t really more expensive. No rickshaws in the center, but taxis at similar prices (just remember to negotiate well).

As Attila mentioned, don’t miss a little trip to Elephanta Island—the only ancient site in Mumbai—by taking the boat from the pier at the foot of the Taj Mahal Hotel. Also, take a quick stroll to Chowpatty Beach to try authentic *pav bhaji* or delicious *kulfi* on the beach (not for swimming, though...), visit the colorful Dhobi Ghat where a huge portion of the city’s laundry is washed, and see the Sufi mausoleum of Haji Ali, whose shape fades into the sea at the end of a pier filled with disabled beggars. And just wander around Colaba with its waterfront and unique colonial architecture.

I can’t tell you anything about Sri Lanka, but I’m sure you’ll teach me a thing or two when you get back—it’s in my top 3 destinations I absolutely must visit.

Tomorrow, La Gomera!

Hi Pagal

Thanks so much... I just copied and pasted your Mumbai info 😉

We’d like to visit the Dharavi neighborhood (with guidance from an NGO or another reputable organization, not a touristy "poverty tour"). Does anyone know of one?

I really love the vibe in Mumbai—it’s so different from Delhi or other big Indian cities.

Hi Pagaljavab, I assume visiting the famous "Towers of Silence" isn’t allowed? Either way, they’re still really strange structures that were built.

No, it seems completely impossible.

We’d like to visit the Dharavi neighborhood (with a reputable NGO or organization, not a touristy "poverty tour"). Anyone know of one?

I’ve never done it myself, but I know it exists. I think Lonely Planet lists an NGO that organizes these visits, but you can also find options easily online.

Hi Kate, What do you want to see in Dharavi besides poverty? I went there without really planning to... by chance, a long time ago. It’s honestly mind-blowing! Can you even visit places like that?!

Good evening Kate, What do you want to see in Dharavi besides poverty? I went there without really meaning to... by chance a long time ago... it’s honestly mind-blowing! Can you even visit places like that?!

I want to understand this reality. Dharavi is an iconic neighborhood, not just for its poverty, but for its activities and its ability to function despite very precarious conditions. I want to discover this with respect, not voyeurism.

Please (everyone), don’t start a debate on my thread about this topic. Or save it for the end 😄 Or until after I’ve been there!

I don’t think it’s something I’d want to do either, but from what I’ve heard, the NGOs that organize these visits are more focused on showing development dynamics and other positive initiatives created by the locals, who don’t seem to oppose the approach. In a documentary I saw a few years ago, they mentioned entrepreneurs who became wealthy but still chose to live in Dharavi.

That won’t stop voyeurs from taking the opportunity, but that’s not the case with the Gang of Four. Even if it’s never appealed to me, I also understand why someone might want to observe it from an anthropological, geographical, or human perspective. (Kate, this isn’t up for debate, okay? 😄)

Maybe this article will make you change your mind?

At least it gives you the name of a company to avoid booking a tour with.

If the dabbawallah system is still around, hanging out around 11:30 at the station...

Otherwise, I think Bollywood sometimes hires white extras for ongoing shoots. An unforgettable experience, in my opinion—and so typically Indian!

Hi there :) I won’t answer about Mumbai, but I will about Sri Lanka. Your itinerary looks great! You could add a visit to Ridi Viharaya between Kurunegala and Dambulla—you’ll love the tip. You’ll also see elephants around Sigiriya, and there are lakes where you can take a boat to observe wildlife (birds!!!). Haputale and the area: excellent choice! After that, the drive to the very touristy Udawalawe National Park might be long. Tangalle: the region is quite large, so there are plenty of nice places to stay. And Galle is worth a full day :) I spent 4 months there last winter and I’m going back in November/December :)

Otherwise, I think Bollywood sometimes hires white extras for ongoing shoots. An unforgettable experience in my opinion.

Absolutely, I was once offered that at Colaba Market for the next day, but I was leaving that same evening...

Maybe this article will change your mind?

It at least gives you the name of a company you shouldn’t book a tour with.

If the dabbawallah system still exists, hanging around at 11:30 at the station...

Otherwise, I think Bollywood sometimes hires white extras for ongoing shoots. An unforgettable experience, in my opinion. And typically Indian! !

I can’t go over each point one by one—all my replies keep turning into "blue italic citation" mode. Another VF bug 🤪

No, the article won’t change my mind. The company mentioned is actually the one recommended by Lonely Planet 😕 But I don’t relate to those caricatures.

Apparently the dabbawallah still exist. We’ll try not to miss them!

If we’re lucky enough to be extras in a Bollywood film, I promise you’ll get the movie reference 😄

Hi Parvat,

Thanks for your replies!

Haputale and the region: great choice! After that, the road to the very touristy Udawalawe Park might be long.

Google Maps shows 2h30 by car from Haputale to Udawalawe. That’s not too bad! And even if it takes us an extra hour...

Ridi Viharaya could be a good stop for a "visit and lunch" halfway between Sigiriya and Kandy. I’ll keep that in mind 😉

Still not sure where to fit in my extra day 😕

Still not sure where to fit in my extra day :/

What a fantastic idea, Sri Lanka! I’m still hoping to reschedule this trip. Back in the day, watching the sunrise from Adam’s Peak really left an impression on me, but you’ll need more than a day in that area

In Galle

One idea: Adam's Peak by sedan chair—the locals use this method without hesitation. Anyway, don’t hike up in the afternoon like I did, even if it’s less hot in January than in May!

The Emirates Hotel in Mumbai is at 21 €. Plus, it's really close to Dharavi 😉

The Emirates Hotel in Mumbai is 21 €. Plus, it's really close to Dharavi 😉

Uh... no 🏴‍☠️

Back then, the sunrise hike up Adam’s Peak really blew me away, but you’ll need more than a day in the area

You know my climbing skills and cravings for a good scramble

Discussing nature and landscapes in your Kyrgyzstan thread made me realize this itinerary is much more nature-focused than urban (except for Mumbai). I’m worried I’ll miss the city vibe :/

Sri Lanka is far from being a desert... I don’t remember it having vast open spaces at all. More like big villages, towns—definitely not a density of 5 people per km²! !😉

Hi Kate, I wrote a little trip report from a journey I took in January 2024 that included Mumbai. It might give you some ideas: https://voyageforum.com/forum/compte-rendu-voyage-3-semaines-en-inde-en-janvier-2024-d10553545/

As for Sri Lanka, the trip report is much older (August 2014), but it might still give you some ideas if the info is still up to date!

https://voyageforum.com/forum/sri-lanka-beau-voyage-3-semaines-mais-pas-si-cool-que-ca-d6688836/

happy planning

In high season, you're almost always in very crowded places. I think it's a shame, especially since the trip duration is comfortable, not to go to Tamil country—if only as far as Trincomalee, which is only two hours by road from Sigiriya. It's a very different Sri Lanka from the Sinhalese one in many ways. Should you take Biboun's tuk-tuk or should I lend you my motorbike? 😉

Hi Guy

Thanks for this info! Some great ideas for Mumbai... For Sri Lanka, I’ll keep in mind your descriptions of the vibes, even though a lot has probably changed in 12 years!

Hey JL

We decided not to go to the East coast because of the rainy season. And we want to stay at least 3 nights at each stop. Unless it's absolutely unmissable—would one day be enough?

No tuk-tuks or motorbikes 😉 But I get it, both would’ve been tempting! This time we’re gonna try trains and buses, unlike our previous trips where we unanimously opted for a car with a driver.

Hi Kate, So you’ve finally decided on Sri Lanka and Mumbai, which was a must-do for you. For hotels, I’ve never paid that rate in Mumbai, and the last time I was there, I stayed in two hotels that were both very decent. The Flora Suites hotel was very good and in a great location. The brunch at the Taj hotel is unforgettable. As for the dabbawalas, it’s really not a must-see anymore—they’re not as numerous as they used to be, they sort the boxes quickly, and leave just as fast. The Dhobi Ghat, on the other hand, is worth a visit, but that’s just my opinion. If you’re looking for a lively and authentic neighborhood, the area around Crawford Market is great—the streets are bustling with a typical bazaar vibe. Gandhi’s house is nice too, in a more upscale neighborhood.

Same opinion as Voyajou. The north and east of Sri Lanka (the "Tamil country"), which remained completely empty of visitors for over 40 years due to the ethnic war, has certainly retained more "authenticity" and still has a lot to offer. I really liked Jaffna and its surroundings, as well as Trincomalee. But that was in 1975! From an MTO (mass tourism organization) point of view, I don’t think it disrupts the visit to the region much.

It must still be quite a shock to go from a budget first-price hotel to the Taj Palace breakfast table. 😄

Hi Marie-Jo

We’d talked about that hotel (Flora Suites), and I’d mentioned that the latest reviews put me off...

I’ll treat you to brunch at the Taj Hotel 😉

Hi Jean-Michel,

We sacrificed the north and east in favor of Mumbai. The choice of the west and south of the island was motivated by the unfavorable climate in January/February in the other parts. I agree that Tamil country still likely has a lot to offer. We really enjoyed Tamil Nadu in India. I imagine the two places have some similarities.

It must still be quite a shock going from a budget first-price hotel to the Taj Palace breakfast table.

That’s what’s so great about it. Common practice for Kate !

It must still be quite a shock going from a budget first-price hotel to the Taj Palace breakfast table. 😄

One doesn’t rule out the other, and I love great places.

I also did it when I was earning minimum wage. I even remember that La Mamounia only charged us for one breakfast out of two. 😛

Nowadays, I avoid this kind of hotel. Unless there’s no other choice. Or if the cheapest option is already 150 euros. 🤪

I’ve already told you it’s not really about the budget but more about the style of accommodation. You see, in Tangalle I found this: https://www.booking.com/Share-nCgSPa for 27 € a night. What matters to me is that it’s a small place—it’s all about the vibe! I can’t stand impersonal, cold resorts. A bit of rustic comfort doesn’t bother me as long as it’s very clean and the bathroom is private. For a relaxed end to the trip, I’d even pay 4 times more, but what I’ve seen in that price range just doesn’t appeal to me at all!

I was thrown off by the ratings on book*** for hotels in Sri Lanka; a lot of them have super high scores, and I suspect hotel owners are lobbying to buy ratings 😕.

In Tangalle, I booked the top-tier option to avoid any (bad) surprises 😕.

https://www.booking.com/Share-qiesZg

Anyway, it’s great—let me know how you feel about more modest places 😉

Hey Bruno

If a place catches my eye, I don’t just look at the ratings—I read the reviews, flip to page 2 or 3, and check how many reviews the guest has written. If they’ve only left one, they’re Sri Lankan, call it "exceptional," and don’t add any real comments, I’m *super* skeptical I usually cross-check with Tripadvisor.

I’m doing the same as you. But I was struck by the number of places with ratings > 9 in Sri Lanka! 😊

First off, I mentioned budget hotels, not cheap hotels—those are two very different things! 🙂

When it comes to my own hotel searches, I also prioritize charm (of the room, the location, the building—or all three if possible) and avoid 500-room resorts, whether all-inclusive, floating, or on land.

I have two criteria you didn’t mention: absolute quiet and non-smoking rooms.

As for India, I particularly love hotels that are converted palaces. I was lucky enough to travel there when it wasn’t very expensive, and I have great memories of the Lake Palace or the Imperial. Especially since, back then, they still had a slightly kitschy vibe.

India can be the best or the worst, and it’s also in this country that I’ve slept in some real dumps. Not because of my budget, but mostly because of the options available...

In Sri Lanka, I loved the creations of architect Geoffrey Bawa, especially the Heritance Kandalama. 😛 Polished concrete in the middle of the jungle with monkeys—such a sublime contrast.

Well, prices have gone up a bit, especially in high season... (The upside of traveling in August is the prices!) 🏴‍☠️

Otherwise, I don’t have any particular memories—none of the cheap ones, at least.

About the hotel you linked, I’d cross it off immediately (smoking rooms) and even more so with the bad reviews (cockroaches, dilapidation, dirt...). Actually, I think now I only read the bad reviews on sites.

If the worst starts at 6, it’s fine. If it starts at 1...

Hi, Have you checked Airbnb? Best regards

Hello

We prefer a hotel. Thanks 🙂

Hello, Have you at least given it a try? Best regards, JPBRIERE

Hello

We need 3 rooms in the same neighborhood with equivalent amenities—an Airbnb apartment would be more expensive. Otherwise, we’ve already done this in India, specifically in Madurai, and we were really happy with it.

Hi Catherine,

We had one night left to fit in, and I planned it in Tangalle but kind of randomly... Would it make more sense to place it at another stop? Or an intermediate stop I hadn’t thought of?

Maybe in the "Rain Forest" of Sinharaja, but you’d need to spend 2 nights there. I really liked that spot—it was so peaceful. Back then, the accommodations were pretty rustic, but things have changed a lot since, based on what I’ve seen in lodging recommendations online. No need to do a trek! https://ann.fr/la-reserve-forestiere-de-sinharaja-au-sri-lanka/ https://www.unpasseportencavale.com/le-sri-lanka/decouvrir-la-foret-de-sinharaja/ On the other hand, I’m not sure if a safari in Sri Lanka is a good idea. I imagine a lot of noise and vehicles lined up one after another... You might want to save that idea for an African reserve instead. Otherwise, your itinerary seems fine. The idea of going east to Tamil country doesn’t seem wise given the time you have. I didn’t go to Haputale since I stayed in Nuwara Eliya (which was pretty chilly, by the way!), but it sounds like a good idea—probably less crowded with tourists than Nuwara Eliya.

hi Kate

For Dharavi, try this NGO: https://www.dharavidiary.org/ https://brulemedia.com/2026/02/05/inde-dans-les-bidonvilles-les-femmes-a-lassaut-du-savoir/

On a side note, I’ll allow myself a little digression: I volunteered for two months in a Jaipur slum, teaching (in English) children from the Dalit community—it was the most beautiful experience of my life. I took sick or injured kids to the nearest hospital, cooked with the moms (and picked up tons of recipes in the process), the slum was partially destroyed by a storm, so we cleaned up, rebuilt, replanted vegetables…

I hope you get to fulfill your wish of meeting these people. HAPPY TRAVELS!!! (but what am I still doing in France?)