A Slightly Less Touristy Japan

Hi everyone, I’m Patrick, 67 years old, a seasoned traveler (already 22 trips outside Europe). In autumn 2025, I took my first 3-week trip to Japan, with stops in Tokyo, Kamakura, Matsumoto, Kamikochi, Takayama, Kanazawa, Kyoto, Nara, Osaka, Koyasan, Tokyo again, and Nikko. I wanted to go back in May 2026 and explore some lesser-known places to complement my first trip. Last year, there were four of us traveling together to discover Japan (a fairly classic itinerary). This time, I’ll be traveling solo for part of the trip and with a couple of French friends for the rest. The weather was gorgeous in May, averaging around 25°C, with two very hot days in Kyoto and only two rainy days. As usual, I organized everything myself, gathering plenty of information from various sites, including this one.

Transportation: An ICOCA card is essential. I got a 5-day Kansai-Hiroshima pass because I took the shinkansen between Hiroshima and Osaka three times, and it paid for itself quickly.

Accommodations: Mostly through Booking. No issues at all. Average cost was 46 € per night.

Meals: For breakfast, I alternated between buying food at a konbini to eat in my room or on the train and grabbing something at local cafés. For lunch and dinner, I tried to vary my meals as much as possible—lots of sashimi, sushi, and ramen. Okonomiyaki in Osaka and Hiroshima. Oysters in every form (raw, grilled, fried) in Onomichi and Hiroshima. A variety of seafood (shrimp, shellfish) in Hiroshima and Matsumoto. Fish whose names often escaped me, but notably mackerel and eel (unagi). Tempura and gyoza. Chicken skewers (yakitori) and one teppanyaki meal. One omakase meal (9 different dishes). In the end, not much meat aside from a few yakitori skewers. No splurges on super expensive wagyu or Kobe beef. Average dinner cost: 4,800 yen, drinks included.

The Itinerary: Day 1: Departure from Brussels Day 2: Arrival in Osaka Day 3: To Himeji, then Kurashiki Day 4: To Fukuyama, then Tomo no Ura, then Onomichi Day 5: Cycling the Shimanami Kaido Day 6: To Takahara, then Hiroshima Day 7: To Kyoto to attend the Aoi Matsuri parade Day 8: To Miyajima Day 9: Hiroshima, then Kyoto Day 10: Southern Kyoto Day 11: Northern Kyoto Day 12: Final day in Kyoto, then to Nagatsugawa Day 13: Start of the Nakasendo Trail (Magome to Tsumago) Day 14: Second day of the trail (Kiso Fukushima) Day 15: Third day of the trail (Narai), then Matsumoto Day 16: To Mt. Fuji (Kawaguchiko) Day 17: To Tokyo Day 18: Excursion to Enoshima and Kamakura Day 19: Flight home, with a 10-hour layover in Hong Kong Day 20: Arrival in Brussels

Day 1: Departure Departure from Brussels to Osaka with Cathay Pacific (1020 €) and a 2-hour layover in Hong Kong. Day 2: Arrival in Osaka Arrival at Kansai Airport in Osaka in the early afternoon. Immigration, baggage claim, activating an eSIM with Saily, buying yen, loading money onto the ICOCA card, and taking the train to Namba Station. Everything went smoothly without any issues. My hotel (Il Cuore Namba) is well located, just a 5-minute walk from the station. A simple but comfortable room. After a short rest, I head out to eat sushi at the conveyor-belt sushi restaurant Kura. A good twenty pieces for a small price.

I end the day with a stroll through the lively Dotonbori district, which I already know, but the crowd is always fun with all the illuminated, kitschy storefront signs.

Day 3: From Osaka to Kurashiki Early start at 6 AM to visit Yasaka Jinja Shrine before catching the train to Himeji. Fun to see how quiet the streets and roads are at that early hour.



Great weather—and it stayed that way for 10 days—with temperatures climbing from 24 °C at the start to 30 °C. Last year, I visited the interiors of two castles (Matsumoto and Osaka). This time, I just walked around the outside of Himeji Castle and strolled through the beautiful adjoining garden (Kōku-en).





I pick up my suitcase from the station luggage storage and take the train to Kurashiki, with a transfer in Okayama. Late lunch of sashimi at a small izakaya before heading to the old town district.

First, a short climb up to Achi Shrine for a view of the city.

I head back down to the charming Honmachi street, lined with old-fashioned houses, to enjoy a good matcha ice cream before reaching the canal area and its historic Bikan district.







I also step into a lovely little toy museum ("Gangukan Folk Toys Museum"). It’s not well-known, and I have the place to myself. It’s worth noting that it’s not easy to find—you have to ask the cashier at the adjoining shop, who then opens the museum door for you.

In the late afternoon, I spotted a gigantic outlet center on the other side of the station. Almost all the well-known brands have a store there. I bought T-shirts and a cap at rock-bottom prices, but couldn’t find any shoes in my size (nothing above size 44).



I fell in love with Kurashiki. It’s authentic and not overrun with tourists like Kyoto. A really lovely afternoon there. I’d spotted and booked my dinner for the evening at a renowned spot. The chef and server spoke only Japanese, and there wasn’t a translated menu either. So, thank goodness for Google Translate. Since the dishes on the menu had odd names when translated, I asked the chef to prepare a variety of random dishes from his own repertoire—what’s called an "omakase" dinner in Japan. The difference between omakase and kaiseki is that an omakase meal is created by the chef on the spot based on the day’s fresh arrivals, while kaiseki refers to a fixed, more formal (and pricier) menu. It was delicious, even though I didn’t understand half the dishes I devoured. I remember "chawanmushi" (a kind of savory egg custard with bits of chicken) and "ebi curata" (large shrimp with noodles).



One last stroll along the canal before a well-deserved night’s sleep.

Day 4: From Kurashiki to Onomichi Left super early as usual. Train to Fukuyama. I left my luggage in a locker and took the bus to the small coastal village of Tomo no Ura.

Another really nice spot. Walked around the charming old center, visited Fukuzen Temple with a stunning view of Benten Island, and took an old ferry boat to Sensui Island for a short 1-hour stroll along the colorful coastline and a view of the nearby islets.













Lunch by the harbor near the lighthouse at the little Tomonoura Café. I had some excellent seafood spaghetti—nice change from the local cuisine.

In the early afternoon, despite the heat gradually rising, I climb the hill toward the Io Hondo temple for the beautiful view over the whole village and the surrounding islands.





It’s time to catch the bus back to Fukuyama, pick up my luggage, and take the train to Onomichi. I stay near the station at the Alpha 1 Hotel. Again, a basic room at a low cost, but it does the job. I take a little stroll toward Onomichi’s center via the covered Hondori arcade. School kids are heading home. Not many interesting shops, and most are already closed by 5 PM.





I spot a small seafood restaurant (Onomichi Yokocho) and reserve a spot for 7 PM. It’s always a good idea to book ahead because it’ll be full. It’s funny how the tables are separated by curtains. Dinner consists of oysters, salmon, sashimi, and grilled shrimp.

Hello, Your travel journal is really interesting—I’ll be drawing inspiration from it for our trip in spring 2027. The photos are a great bonus and really fuel my imagination. Japan will be a first for us (two friends). That said, we’ll only be there for 14 days, so we’ll probably skip Hiroshima this time. We’re flying from Brussels to Osaka with a layover in Bangkok on Thai Airways. Did you write a journal after your first trip to Japan? Thanks for sharing your story and photos. Best regards

Hello, Your travel journal is interesting—I’ll draw inspiration from it for our trip in spring 2027. Did you write a journal after your first trip to Japan? Thanks for your story and photos. Best regards

Hi Patricia, yes, here’s the link: 3 beautiful weeks during the Japanese autumn | Travel Journal > Japan | Voyage Forum

Hi, Thanks for your reply. Unfortunately, I don’t understand why, but I can’t access your travel journal *3 Beautiful Weeks in Japan*. I’ll try again later—I might have better luck. Best regards

Day 5: Biking Day on the Shimano Kaido Today was a biking day to cover part of a famous cycling path: the shimano kaido. I was at the bike rental center when it opened at Onomichi Station. I rented an electric bike because, even though most of the route is along the water, I decided to climb Mount Shirataki for the view. Great call—the climb was pretty steep! At the top, there was a cute little shrine and a stunning 360-degree view.





From Onomichi, you have to take a ferry to reach the first island. I was joined by about fifty school kids in uniform. There are some industrial areas to cross since there are quite a few ports, but overall, the route is pleasant with the crossing of two huge bridges. I arrived in Setoda after 33 km.

In Setoda, I visited the vibrant Kosan-ji Temple before heading to lunch at a small cafeteria.











I then continued along the bike path to the 3rd bridge, relaxed on a small beach, and dipped my feet in the Pacific. Back in Setoda, I wandered through the village before taking the 3:30 PM ferry to Onomichi.





So, Onomichi isn’t exactly a temple-lover’s paradise. Generally, they’re pretty basic. Still, I picked out two: Senko-ji, accessible by cable car, and Saikoku-ji in the far north. Having already been to Kyoto, the comparison is striking. Later that afternoon, I headed to Saikoku-ji. Nothing wow-worthy, and lots of steps to get there. Dinner at the restaurant "Kakizaemon" (mackerel in paper, oysters, and eel, paired with a good bottle of sake).

Day 6: Onomichi – Takehara – Hiroshima At 9 AM, I’m at the cable car’s opening to head up to Senko-ji Temple. Only two Japanese couples join me. On the way down, a small alley announces “cat alley.” Sure enough, there are a few cats (real ones, but also plenty of cat representations on wooden boards or carved into the rock).





At 11:30 AM, my train departs for Mihara, then I change for Takehara. It’s scorching hot. I look for a place for lunch but there aren’t many restaurants in this small town. I stumble upon a tiny ramen izakaya. I’m the only customer, and the chef has time to chat with me and ask about my trip. It’s always nice to be able to talk with the chef, even if it’s through a translation app.

Takehara is off the beaten path from the Onomichi-Hiroshima line, so there are almost no tourists here. The old part consists of two parallel streets with temples at each end. It doesn’t take long to explore since it’s not very long. No souvenir shops. Here, it stays authentic. I visit a sake brewery and an old samurai house.









I take a bus to reach Hiroshima. My accommodation is at the "Urban Central." My first contact with the city is a stroll through the covered shopping arcade Hondori before heading out for sushi.

Day 7: A round trip from Hiroshima to Kyoto First, I need to explain this day. Once a year, there’s a grand parade near the Kyoto Imperial Palace: the "Aoi Matsuri." Every May 15th, over 500 people in Heian-era costumes, along with horses, ox-drawn floats, and decorations made of hollyhock leaves (aoi), parade from the Kyoto Imperial Palace to the Kamigamo Shrine.

Since I have the 5-day Hiroshima-Kansai pass, the trips are included and only take 2 hours and 15 minutes. A round trip to Kyoto isn’t too much of a hassle, so I leave Hiroshima at 7 AM to comfortably make it to the parade, which starts at 10:30. The parade is indeed very solemn, lasting about an hour.













I head back to Gion to wander around the area and spot a burger place for a change of pace. Before catching the train back to Hiroshima, I stop by the Shosei-en Garden and the large Higashi Hongan-ji Temple.







A great dinner at "Isomaru" (crab, scallops, tuna skewers, unagi, with a good highball) came to 4100 yen.

Hi Patrick,

Thanks for sharing your two trips to Japan. It’s helped me discover some "classic" spots I haven’t visited yet.

Your photos are great and really highlight the culture and beauty of Japan. The Gion Odori show must’ve been lovely—I recently saw a short documentary about it.

The villages along the Seto Inland Sea really appeal to me. Do they have that gentle pace of life the images suggest? Since your second trip was just six months after the first, I’m guessing you might’ve had a "soft spot" for the country. Is the joy from that second trip still there?

Hello Patrick, Thank you for sharing your two trips to Japan. It allowed me to discover some "classic" places that I haven’t visited yet. Your photos are great and really highlight the culture and beauty of Japan. The Gion Odori show must have been lovely. I recently saw a short documentary about it. The villages along the Seto Inland Sea really appeal to me. Do they have that gentle way of life the images suggest? Since your second trip was just six months after the first, I imagine you must have fallen in love with the country. Is the joy from that second trip still with you?

Thanks, Nathalie. Yes, absolutely—I definitely fell in love, which is why I went back just six months later. The first time (October/November) let me experience the country during autumn’s beautiful colors. Though I returned on November 15th, before the peak (both for foliage and tourists).

The second time was in May. The days were much longer, giving me more time for daily sightseeing. I focused on two regions: the Seto Inland Sea area and the Nakasendo hike through the Japanese "Alps." I also got to explore more of Kyoto and its surroundings.

I still cherish the idea of returning someday to visit Kyushu and the southern islands (like Ishigaki), but maybe first—I’d like to mix things up and try a different continent (Uganda, Guatemala, or Colombia?)

Day 8: Excursion to Miyajima Breakfast at the station before taking the 7:00 a.m. train to Miyajima Island. Arrived on the island via ferry at 7:50 a.m. Not many people around at this early hour, which made it perfect for enjoying the sights in peace.







After photographing the famous torii from every angle, I head to the cable car departure point to be among the first for the 9:00 a.m. ride. Another good call—tourists quickly flooded the line after me. Japanese humor...

It takes another 30-minute walk to reach the summit panorama. I chat for an hour with a Japanese woman who spent a year in England. A lovely encounter. When you travel solo, these kinds of meetings are so nice.



It takes me an hour of downhill walking to reach the Daisho-in Temple before finding a spot for lunch. I feel for the people hiking up on foot.



About the Daisho-in Temple: it’s May 16th, and I learned that on May 20th, a fire completely destroyed part of the temple—the pagoda (see photo above) that housed an "eternal flame" for over 1,200 years.

By 1:00 p.m., it’s packed. All the restaurants are full, and there are lines at every street food stall. I settle for some mediocre takoyaki, followed by a good matcha ice cream since it’s still pretty hot.



The torii is now at low tide, and a dense crowd is gathered at its base. It’s less fun. I head back to the ferry, passing through the packed shopping street.



After resting in my room, I take a stroll through Sukkei-en Garden. Again, I chat in English with a woman from a similar profession (she practices shiatsu—I’m a physiotherapist).



For dinner, I’d booked a table at a small restaurant specializing in oysters. The place (Kakidokoro Baketsu Kamiyacho) isn’t easy to find, near Hondori Shopping Street. It’s tiny. Just so you know, here’s what I had for dinner: 8 raw oysters (1500 yen), 6 grilled oysters with various toppings (1500 yen), 2 highballs—total bill was 4500 yen. Another great spot.

Day 9: Hiroshima - Kyoto This morning, bright and early at 8 AM, I visit the Peace Memorial Museum, then take a stroll through the small adjacent park up to the dome. Once again, that strange feeling of a city without cars at this early hour. At 8 AM in Brussels, it's total traffic chaos.





A bit of shopping before settling in at the opening (11 AM) at one of the restaurant tables in the small Okonomimura building. A pretty unique spot. Over three floors, about forty tiny restaurants serve just one specialty: okonomiyaki crepes. Since the place is well-known, it fills up quickly. I grab a seat at one of the 12 stools around a long hotplate where you can watch the preparation of these famous crepes. Delicious.







In the early afternoon, I head off to visit a temple nestled in the forest: Mitaki-dera Temple, surrounded by a few small waterfalls.



Time to leave Hiroshima. A shinkansen to Osaka, then a JR train to Kyoto. I'm still in awe of the stunning glass roof of this station. My accommodation—a cute ryokan (Nakajimaya)—is perfectly located just 3 minutes south of the shopping street Shijo-dori, in a quiet alley. A very kind lady runs it. A great place at a reasonable price.



In the evening, I have a meet-up at the nearby Kura Sushi with two French friends from Annecy who’ll be joining me for six days of the trip.

Hello Patrick, Thank you for sharing your two trips to Japan. It’s allowed me to discover some "classic" spots I haven’t visited yet. Your photos are great and really highlight the culture and beauty of Japan. The Gion Odori show must have been lovely. I recently saw a short documentary about it. The villages along the Seto Inland Sea really appeal to me. Do they have that gentle pace of life the images suggest? Since your second trip was just six months after the first, I imagine you must have had a real "crush" on the country. Is the joy from that second trip still with you?

Thanks, Nathalie. Yes, absolutely—I definitely had a crush on the country to go back just six months later. The first time (October/November) let me experience Japan with the beautiful autumn colors. Though I returned on November 15th, before the peak (both for foliage and tourists).

The second time was in May. The days were much longer, allowing for more time to explore each day.

I focused on two regions: the Seto Inland Sea area and the Nakasendo hike in the Japanese "Alps." I also got to explore more of Kyoto and its surroundings.

I still have the pleasure of thinking about returning someday—to Kyushu and the southern islands (Ishigaki)—but maybe first, to mix things up, I’ll try a different continent (Uganda, Guatemala, or Colombia?)

The Japanese Cupid’s arrow struck me. 😉

The second time was in May. The days were much longer, allowing for more time to explore each day.

Definitely a big advantage. In the south, the sun sets later—there’s usually about an hour’s difference compared to the north.

the Seto Inland Sea region

That region really sparks my imagination, especially the beautiful Shinamanikaido crossing.

I still have the pleasure of thinking about returning someday—to Kyushu and the southern islands (Ishigaki)

Great idea. Kyushu is rich and has all the charm of Japan. As for the southern islands, though I’ve only been to Miyakojima, it’s so different from the rest of Japan that it feels like multiple vacations in one.

but maybe first, to mix things up, I’ll try a different continent (Uganda, Guatemala, or Colombia?)

Such amazing destinations too, though I haven’t managed to venture beyond Japan since my first steps on Japanese soil. I’d love to read your future travel journals in the works.

Day 10: Kyoto We met up at 8 AM at the central station to take the train to Fushimi Inari Shrine. We started with the first corridor of torii at the bottom (Senbon). It was already crowded. At the exit, I spotted a lovely bamboo forest on the right. Great find because we had it all to ourselves. From the spot called "Shichimen no Taki," we began the tough climb to the summit before descending at our own pace through the various torii passages.











We continued our morning toward Uji to visit the lovely Byodo-in Temple.

After lunch near the station, we head back to the center by train. A nap at the ryokan feels great because the thermometer reads 33 degrees. Too hot to go for a walk. In the late afternoon, we set off to explore the southern district of Gion: the famous Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka streets before Kiyomizu-dera Temple closes.







We return to the Shinbashi district to have dinner (at "Teppanyaki Manyu"). As usual, thank goodness I had a reservation because it was fully booked otherwise. A stroll through Gion by night wraps up this lovely day.

Hi there! In late March 2027, my friend and I will be in Kyoto, and we're currently planning our trip. Could you share the name of the ryokan where you stayed? There are so many that it's tricky to choose. Is it located near public transportation?

Thanks for your reply, and a huge thank you for your travel journal—it's really inspiring! Pat

Hello! In late March 2027, my friend and I will be in Kyoto, and we’re currently planning our trip. Could you tell me the name of the ryokan where you stayed? There are so many that it’s hard to choose. Is it close to public transport? Thanks for your reply, and a huge thank you for your travel journal—it’s really inspiring. Pat

Hi! As mentioned, it’s the Nakajimaya ryokan. Here’s the front:

It’s a 5-minute walk from the Shijo subway station, so it’s convenient when coming from Kyoto Station.

Thanks so much for your reply. No luck for us—it’s not available for our dates. We’ll rely on Booking for accommodation close to public transport. Your photos are really lovely, and thanks again for such a well-documented travel journal. Best regards, Patricia

Day 11: Kyoto We head north of Kyoto to arrive at the Golden Temple for opening time. The subway ride is packed. There’s already a small line at the entrance, but we only wait 10 minutes. My take: it’s definitely photogenic, but you can see it all pretty quickly, and it takes an hour by subway then bus to get there. Plus, another hour to reach the second temple of the morning: the Silver Temple. Verdict: visiting it is a real time commitment.













Between these two famous temples, we also stop at Shimogamo Jinja shrine. We spend more time at Ginkaku-ji. Even though the pavilion isn’t as stunning as Kinkaku-ji’s, it has its own perks—like its beautiful dry garden, moss garden, and a lovely view of northern Kyoto. Plus, it’s at the northern end of the "Philosopher’s Path," which we walk right after lunch. Along the way, we also stopped at the cute little shrine dedicated to mice (Otoyo Shrine).

We spend the afternoon heading to Arashiyama to explore its northern district: the moss temple Gio-ji, the charming Saga-Toriimoto street, the Adashino Nenbutsu-ji temple, and ending at Otagi Nenbutsu-ji temple.









We return to central Kyoto to stroll through Pontocho and have dinner at an "all-you-can-eat" spot.

Day 12: Kyoto to Nagatsugawa We spent 3 hours this morning at the stunning digital art museum "teamLab Biovortex." We booked the first time slot at 9 AM to have plenty of time there before heading to enjoy a great seafood barbecue lunch at Nishiki Market. I’d already visited "teamLab Planets" in Tokyo. Apart from two nearly identical sections, it offers different sensory experiences.











Back to the hotel to grab our luggage before catching the train to Nagatsugawa, with a stop in Nagoya. We’re staying at "M Higashimachi," an entire house just for the three of us. We chose to stay in this town to start the "Nakasendo" hike as early as possible the next day. We picked up dinner at the large supermarket near our place—a feast of sashimi and sushi, washed down with sake at home.

Day 13: First day on the Nakasendo Trail Of course, rain. And it’ll stick with us all day. I drop my suitcase at another ryokan and can pick it up at Narai Station in 3 days. All thanks to a luggage transport service. So I only have to carry my small backpack for the 3-day hike. A 30-minute bus ride takes us to the trailhead in the charming village of Magome. The Nakasendo is an old route that crossed the Japanese Alps to connect Kyoto and Tokyo during the Edo period. Today, there’s a preserved 8-kilometer paved section between the historic villages of Magome-juku and Tsumago-juku. We walk down Magome’s main street in the rain. Too bad it’s pouring—we’re not enjoying it as much. There are a few waterwheels, traditional shops, and cute little cafés and restaurants.

Thanks for this stroll through places that are less traveled, at least by Westerners. I’m really enjoying discovering these spots.

Thanks for this walk through places that are less frequented, at least by Westerners. I really enjoy discovering these spots.

Hello. Thank you! It’s really nice.

At the end of the village, we start the hike through forests and countryside landscapes. We also stop at a pretty little waterfall and take a break in a traditional tea house that offers hikers a free cup of matcha tea.









After 3 hours of walking, we arrive in the village of Tsumago. Luckily, the rain has stopped, and we can enjoy the area better. We find a cute little restaurant before heading back toward Nagiso. Another hour of walking. The forest is beautiful, but the rain has returned. We arrive in Nagiso completely soaked from head to toe.









Since all the accommodations in the area were fully booked, we have to take the train to the nearby village of Sakashita—just one stop away. Our guesthouse isn’t great. In fact, the whole village isn’t very pretty. We’re struggling to dry our clothes, even with the help of a hairdryer.

Tonight, we’re having some great tonkatsu at the village’s only little restaurant. In fact, we’ll be the only customers in this quirky spot. It felt like we were eating at the chef’s place, surrounded by crates and all sorts of random stuff.

Day 14: Second day on the Nakasendo Trail We take the train back to Nagiso, and after a good breakfast at the station, we start our second day of hiking. This time, no rain. Four hours of walking to Nojiri through forest paths, small villages, and countryside landscapes.





Not sure what to make of that...













We enjoy a good ramen and some gyozas before taking the train to Kiso-Fukushima, where we arrive in the late afternoon. We take advantage of the onsen (it was just okay) before dinner at the hotel.

Hi Patrick,

22 trips outside Europe—so jealous! That’s amazing. I hope there’ll be many more because reading your travel journals always brings a ton of great discoveries. This one’s no exception. Thanks! 🙂 Flight tickets to Japan are pretty expensive now. Before COVID, you could often find them for around 500 €. Should’ve taken advantage! 😉

yes, flights are now around 1000 €

Day 15: Day 3 on the Nakasendo. Heading to Matsumoto The climb through the forest toward the “Torii Pass” is pretty steep. There’s actually only one torii here… We found this to be the least scenic part of our 3-day hike.











After a 3-hour hike, we reach Narai. Another really pretty village, but a bit too touristy since it’s so easy to get to from Matsumoto. And once again, it’s raining. We wander down the main street (which is basically the only one). There are quite a few shops here.

Hello, what a pleasure to reconnect with the Nakasendo. I walked it two years ago, starting from Nakatsugawa on day 1 to Magome, then day 2 to Tsumago before taking the train to Matsumoto. What wonderful memories! We’ll be returning to Japan in the autumn of 2027—I can’t wait to dive into the planning with delight, drawing inspiration from travel journals (we didn’t make it to Hiroshima last time). After Matsumoto, we continued to Takayama and then Kanazawa, which we loved!

Hello, what a pleasure to reconnect with the Nakasendo. I walked it two years ago, starting from Nakatsugawa on day 1 to Magome, then day 2 to Tsumago before taking the train to Matsumoto. Such wonderful memories! We’ll be returning to Japan in the autumn of 2027—I can’t wait to dive back into planning with delight, drawing inspiration from travel journals (we didn’t make it to Hiroshima last time). After Matsumoto, we continued to Takayama and then Kanazawa, which we loved!

yes, autumn in Takayama and Kanazawa was a truly beautiful experience for us too (see my other travel journal "3 Beautiful Weeks During Japanese Autumn")

yes, autumn in Takayama and Kanazawa was a really beautiful time for us too (see my other travel journal "3 beautiful weeks during the Japanese autumn")

Thanks! You might also want to check out my travel journal "Draw Me Your Japan". It’s a different style—I tried to express through drawings what would’ve taken me way more words!

Yes, autumn in Takayama and Kanazawa was a really beautiful time for us too (see my other travel journal "3 beautiful weeks during the Japanese autumn")

Thanks! You might also want to check out my travel journal "Draw Me Your Japan." It’s a different style—I tried to express through drawings what would’ve taken me way more words!

Yeah, I’d already flipped through it. Such amazing drawings that really capture the places! Same for your Oman trip—I’d also visited it just before COVID

After devouring a tonkatsu, I pick up my suitcase at the station and we take the train for a 50-minute ride to Matsumoto. I part ways with my two French friends here and head to my capsule hotel. It’s pretty stylish since I opted for a larger room. A curtain separates the room from the hallway. Everything’s nice and quiet here—and clean. Afterward, I take a stroll through Matsumoto toward the castle and the surrounding streets along the river, which I already know from my visit last year.

















Seafood dinner at "Isomaru"

We really do keep running into each other in our travel journals, don’t we? 🙂 Thanks for the kind words! Keep up the great work.

Day 16: Matsumoto to Kawaguchiko Since my train leaves at 9 AM for Isawa Onsen, I try to find a place for breakfast but no luck. Either they don’t open until after 8 AM or there’s already a line at the door by 7:30. So I head to a 7-Eleven to grab some yogurt and eat it at the hotel. At Isawa Onsen, I catch my connecting bus to Kawaguchiko. I’m staying at a youth hostel—a pretty basic room, but at a great price. After a ramen lunch, I rent a bike from the hostel to ride around the lake. The weather isn’t great—overcast with zero visibility of Mount Fuji all afternoon. And it’s only 15°C.

The lake loop—with stops—takes me about 3 hours. Along the way, I pause at Oishi Park, get a view of Lake Saiko, and finally visit Omuro Sengen Shrine.











Dinner at a really nice little restaurant (Kokua). Amazing sea bream in parchment paper, plus chicken wings, fries, horse sashimi, and a beer—all for 4,000 yen. Since there aren’t many customers, the chef comes over to chat with me. That’s one of the perks of solo travel—you get to know people quickly.

Day 17: Mount Fuji then heading to Tokyo Shinjuku Yes! Clear blue sky this morning. I bike around the lake again, this time with beautiful views of Mount Fuji.











I then head to the Chureito Pagoda. A nice neighborhood leads me there. Big climb (400 steps) for an amazing view.



Back to Kawaguchiko center. It’s packed at this hour (11 AM). After lunch, I take the bus to Shinjuku. Good thing I booked the day before because all the buses were full. Arrived at 2:35 PM in Tokyo. I take the subway to my hotel, which is in the Korean neighborhood. A great tip for paying less, and it’s only a 10-minute walk from Shinjuku.

Balade vers le centre des buildings pour monter en haut du metropolitan building. Seulement 30 minutes de file et entrée gratuite.

Je poursuis dans les petites ruelles de shinjuku (omoide yokocho) avant d’aller manger une dernière fois des sushis au kura sushi.







Je repars ensuite au metropolitan building voir le show des illuminations nocturnes sur le bâtiment, avant de me fondre dans les lumières de kabuchiko puis go hotel.

Salut Patrick. Je ne suis pas venu ici depuis (trop) longtemps mais c'est avec beaucoup d'intérêt que je découvre ton reportage bien expliqué et illustré de superbes photos. J'ai particulièrement apprécié la première partie de ton périple qui m'a immédiatement rappelé la balade de printemps que j'avais fait en juin 2019, J'étais passé exactement aux mêmes endroits et j'avais écrit un carnet ici pour le décrire. Comme je suis allé de nombreuses fois au Japon, les autres descriptions suivantes m'ont rappelé de beaux souvenirs et je suivrai la suite avec intérêt. Il faudrait que je trouve le courage de faire un carnet sur mon dernier voyage au Japon en avril-mai dernier... mais j'en manque un peu. 😏

Salut Patrick. Je ne suis pas venu ici depuis (trop) longtemps mais c'est avec beaucoup d'intérêt que je découvre ton reportage bien expliqué et illustré de superbes photos. J'ai particulièrement apprécié la première partie de ton périple qui m'a immédiatement rappelé la balade de printemps que j'avais fait en juin 2019, J'étais passé exactement aux mêmes endroits et j'avais écrit un carnet ici pour le décrire. Comme je suis allé de nombreuses fois au Japon, les autres descriptions suivantes m'ont rappelé de beaux souvenirs et je suivrai la suite avec intérêt. Il faudrait que je trouve le courage de faire un carnet sur mon dernier voyage au Japon en avril-mai dernier... mais j'en manque un peu. 😏

c'est exact. J'avais attentivement regardé ton carnet et m'en suis bien inspiré pour la première partie de mon voyage. donc heureusement qu'il existe des carnets plus insolites . Merci