Where to settle in / relax in India?

Hello, We’ve already traveled to India twice before, but only for two-week stretches (2013, a loop from Mumbai including Hampi, and in 2019, Tamil Nadu). This time, we’re leaving at the end of October for nearly three months of travel—something completely new for us! We’ll arrive in Delhi and depart from Bangalore. Our goal is to explore Northern India and then head down to Kerala, taking a maximum of one flight and prioritizing trains.

Traveling for this long should let us plan longer stops to slow down the pace and fully enjoy our trip...

What are the places you’ve loved with this in mind? I’ve already thought of Gokarna... Do you have any other suggestions, especially in Northern India? Thanks in advance for your tips!

hi Arielle, what a wonderful project! I imagine you’ll get lots of replies… After spending three months in northern India a few years back (2014) doing helpx and backpacking—buses and trains—I have to say I loved everything… even the chaos at train departures and arrivals!!

When I arrived in Delhi, I took another flight to Jaipur, where I stayed for a month. Then by bus and train, I went to Pushkar, Jodhpur, Jaisalmer, Bikaner, Haridwar, Rishikesh, and Manali—my main destinations and places to "chill." But it was in Manali where I could really relax, hiking in the mountains… And especially in the temples, where no street noise manages to get in…

Have a great trip!!

Hello, We’ve already traveled to India twice before, but only for two-week periods (2013, a loop from Mumbai including Hampi, and in 2019, Tamil Nadu) ... This time, we’re leaving at the end of October for nearly three months of travel, which is a first for us! We’ll arrive in Delhi and depart from Bangalore. Our goal is to explore Northern India and then head down to Kerala, taking a flight at most once and prioritizing trains. Traveling for so long should allow us to plan longer stops to slow down the pace and fully enjoy our trip... What are the places you’ve enjoyed with this in mind? I’ve already thought of Gokarna... Do you have any other suggestions, especially in Northern India? Thanks in advance for your feedback.

Good evening Arielle, It’s a wonderful project that requires good preparation! It’s always tricky to suggest ideas without knowing your personal tastes. To start, I recommend reading some travel journals: they’re a fantastic source of inspiration and might make you want to discover a state you wouldn’t have thought of spontaneously.

Not yet mentioned and further north: Chandigarh, Le Corbusier's city; Shimla, the British capital accessible by the mountain train KSR; Dharamsala with its Tibetan vibe; and Amritsar with its Golden Temple and the Sikhs.

Hi there, In Uttarakhand, a region steeped in spirituality where the Ganges and Yamuna rivers flow—Haridwar, Rishikesh... Mussoorie. You can even go as far as Badrinath if it’s not too cold yet in mid-October. It’s usually very sunny in October after the monsoon, but you’ll need warm clothes for Badrinath! Also in Himachal Pradesh: Manali, Manikaran, Shimla. It might be a bit chilly in the mornings and evenings, but it’s so relaxing.

P.S.: I didn’t realize you were leaving at the END of October. So in November, in the foothills of the Himalayas, it’ll be a bit chilly except in Haridwar and Rishikesh, which are at lower altitudes.

To slow down a bit in the North, there’s Rishikesh or Dharamshala (great for setting down your bags for a few weeks at the foot of the Himalayas with hikes and contemplative serenity), Varanasi, and Shekhawati (Mandawa/Nawalgarh).

On the way south, you can check out Udaipur (the "Venice of the East," perfect for leisurely strolls by the lakes), Hampi (you already know it, but spending a full week there lets you explore the megalithic ruins), and Gokarna (your idea, which is a solid choice for catching your breath for a few weeks on the coast before reaching Kerala).

For the final stretch, in Kerala, consider a week in Fort Kochi to live at the pace of fishermen, colonial history, and local arts (Kathakali), and in the Backwaters (Alleppey or Munroe Island), opting for a homestay on a peaceful island rather than just a day cruise.

To slow down a bit in the North, there’s Rishikesh or Dharamshala (great spots to set your bags down for a few weeks at the foot of the Himalayas—hiking and contemplative serenity), Varanasi, and Shekhawati (Mandawa/Nawalgarh).

On the way south, you can mention Udaipur (the "Venice of the East," perfect for wandering by the lakes), Hampi (you already know it, but spending a full week there lets you explore the megalithic ruins), Gokarna (your idea, which is a good choice to catch your breath for a few weeks on the coast before reaching Kerala).

At the end of the trip, in Kerala, consider a week in Fort Kochi to live at the pace of fishermen, colonial history, and local arts (Kathakali), and in the Backwaters (Alleppey or Munroe Island), opting for a stay in a homestay on a peaceful island rather than just a day cruise.

The catalog for the average tourist, with no real originality. Is that all AI has to offer? How sad!

There’s Rishikesh or Dharamshala (great spots to set your bags down for a few weeks at the foot of the Himalayas—hiking and contemplative serenity), Varanasi, and Shekhawati

Unbelievable! Do you know these places well? Do you have any idea of the distance between Rishikesh and Varanasi? Everything’s thrown together haphazardly. The AI tied itself in knots!😏

Hello, Thank you all for your replies... they’ll really help me plan our itinerary, even though this time we don’t want to travel with a strict schedule, unlike our other trips where I’d planned day by day. Of course, I’m still thinking about a coherent route, considering travel logistics, weather constraints, and balancing sightseeing with downtime!

To help you understand what we’re looking for, here’s a bit about our travel style... We love discovering historical sites—Hampi, for example, was a highlight for us—as well as places off the beaten tourist trail, like Bidar or Tranquebar in Tamil Nadu. Chettinad was another wonderful discovery. Traveling in India also means trying to connect with the spirituality of its people, so we enjoy visiting temples and pilgrimage sites: Rameswaram gave us that experience, and this time we’d like to include Varanasi in our journey. During our first trip, we flew into and out of Mumbai, and while the idea of exploring this megacity initially intimidated us (especially with our two teenage daughters), we all ended up loving it. The only place that didn’t quite click for us was Goa—we spent a short 2-night stay in Benaulim.

All this has made us want to return to India, but since it can be tiring or even overwhelming, we’re planning to build in some rest stops. These could include beaches (like Gokarna and maybe others), hill stations (we’re already considering some in Kerala, but there might be options elsewhere too), and the mountains north of Delhi—though we’re not going for long hikes; a 3- to 4-hour walk would be plenty. While exploring Rajasthan, I’d also like to include some quieter, rural stops between the must-see spots...

Hopefully, this gives you a better sense of what we’re after, and of course, I’ve been checking out the **travel journals** posted by some of you for a while now! !

Hi there,

When I read your first post, I held back from replying since I’ve only seen a tiny part of India (Rajasthan in January 2024 and Tamil Nadu / Kerala in January 2025). But you mentioned a few places we’ve been, like Chettinad. That region was one of our absolute favorites, but sadly we didn’t stay long enough. Now I could see it as a perfect stop to catch my breath.

Rajasthan was anything but restful! But we slowed down in the village of Salawas, 20 km from Jodhpur, at Chottaram’s guesthouse. Our second break was in Jaisalmer, with timeless moments in the Thar Desert.

Good evening, Actually, Chettinad, where we spent two days in 2019, is the kind of place where you can quietly explore the heritage and find establishments of a certain standard where you can recharge... It's exactly the kind of spot I'd like to discover elsewhere. In the northern regions where havelis are found, there must be villages or towns quieter than the rest, right? Otherwise, I’ll keep your recommendations around Jodhpur in mind, and as for Jaisalmer, I’m not sure yet if we’ll include it in our itinerary (since we’ll have to make some choices)! I’ve already had the chance to read your travel journals with interest...

Good evening, Indeed, Chettinad, where we spent two days in 2019, is the kind of place where you can quietly explore the heritage and find establishments of a certain standard, where you can recharge... It's exactly the kind of place I'd like to discover elsewhere. In the northern regions where havelis are found, there must be villages/towns quieter than others, right? Otherwise, I’m noting your recommendations around Jodhpur, and as for Jaisalmer, I’m not sure yet if we’ll include it in our itinerary (since we’ll have to make choices)! And I’ve already had the chance to read your travel journals with interest...

If you're looking for places similar to Chettinad, Shekhawati is a definite must—I’ve talked about it a lot in one of my travel journals. Madhya Pradesh isn’t very touristy, and you can find nice villages where you can stay for several days.... I think in every Indian state, you can find peaceful villages—it’s up to you to choose. (Assam, West Bengal, Madhya Pradesh, Rajasthan, Karnataka, Tamil Nadu... and many more.)

Thanks for the info! I’ll add Shekhawati to our itinerary. I’ve started reading your travel journals... so I’m also adding Bundi in Rajasthan, and as for Madhya Pradesh, I really loved Chanderi and everything you discovered from that little town... Now we’ll have to make some choices!

Hello,

Rajasthan is full of places to settle in. I recommend Jawai Bandh, a sanctuary where leopards roam freely among stunning rock formations around a lake. Having been to Rajasthan six times, I can tell you it's a spot that’s still off the radar for most international tourists.

I could list dozens and dozens of other places to relax in India—every state has its gems: the foothills of the Himalayas in Himachal Pradesh and Uttarakhand, the Rann of Kutch in Gujarat, Omkareshwar in Madhya Pradesh, some of Goa’s lesser-known beaches, Gokarna in Karnataka, Shekhawati, and Kanyakumari in Tamil Nadu... But since you’ve got time, maybe you’ll stumble upon them yourself as you wander.

Hello, I'm thrilled to see so many of you "India specialists" on this forum responding to me... since I've already planned two trips in 2013 and 2019, I've been following you for a long time! Pagaljabab, for example, reading your trip report on Tamil Nadu convinced me to include Chettinad in our 14-day itinerary... This time, we're embarking on a new experience; we've never had the chance to travel for more than a month before, and planning a nearly 3-month trip is quite dizzying (for me)! Usually, I tend to plan all our stops, even though in India we only booked a few accommodations in advance, easily finding hotels on the spot... but with more time ahead, I hope we can actually spend more time in places where we feel good and include stops off the beaten tourist track. That doesn’t mean we want to skip the must-sees... On that note, do you think it’s worth including the Pushkar Fair in our itinerary, taking place from November 17 to 24, 2026? Diwali will be from November 6 to 10, 2026: where do you think is the best place to experience this festival? Given that we arrive in Delhi on October 30 and plan to spend 4 nights there upon arrival... Thanks in advance for your feedback.

Hi there, fellow Occitan history-geo colleague!

I’m glad my 2018 Tamil Nadu travel journal was useful to you.

we’ve never had the chance to travel for more than a month before, and planning a trip for nearly 3 months is quite dizzying (for me)!

My longest stay in India was two and a half months, and I actually found it much more enjoyable to move from place to place without over-planning and to stay as long as I wanted somewhere. If I had the chance again, I’d travel like that all the time.

On that note, do you think it’s worth including the Pushkar Fair in our itinerary? It’ll take place from November 17 to 24, 2026.

I’ve never been, but it’s probably fun to see. Since you’re not planning to buy a camel, a short visit should be enough. Just keep in mind that this fair is super popular with Indian visitors, and accommodations are reportedly fully booked in advance...

Diwali will take place from November 6 to 10, 2026: where do you think it’s best to experience this festival?

It’s the most popular festival in North India, celebrated absolutely everywhere—from the biggest cities to the smallest villages. So it’ll definitely be interesting. I’ve never experienced it myself due to the timing, but my Indian friends often say it’s mostly a home and temple celebration. The best thing is to ask around locally to find out where you can see outdoor festivities. To be sure you’ll get to see some, I’d suggest choosing a religious city or a major one—or even both. Since it’ll be early in your trip, why not in Rajasthan, like Udaipur, where there’s always something special happening during festivals by the lake or at the Jagdish Temple? Or somewhere else...

Hello If you want to see a festival that's less touristy than Pushkar, there's the Chandrabagha Fair in Jhalawar Jalarpathan from November 23rd to 25th, followed by the festival in Bundi from the 27th to 29th.

Both are really nice!

My longest stay in India was two and a half months, and I actually found it much more enjoyable to move from place to place without too much planning and to stay as long as I wanted somewhere. If I had the chance again, I’d travel like this all the time.

Taking the time to travel has been a long-time dream of mine... but I want to leave with enough information to make choices that match our tastes. We also want to spend enough time in Kerala, where we should feel more in vacation mode to come back refreshed... because as far as I’m concerned, I go back to work on January 28th!

If you want to see a festival that's less touristy than Pushkar, from Nov 23 to 25 there's the Chandrabagha fair in Jhalawar Jalarpathan, and right after, the festival in Bundi from Nov 27 to 29.

Thanks for this info... After reading one of your travel journals (I'm taking notes...), I'd jotted down the Chandrabagha fair in Jhalawar Jalarpathan and looked up the dates! I think this matches what we're looking for better than Pushkar...

The most off-the-beaten-path places I’ve visited in India (outside of local spots) are Gujarat and the western part of Bhopal in Madhya Pradesh.

Gujarat was pretty relaxing in the sense that the accommodations were pleasant. Western Madhya Pradesh, not so much... (Accommodations were pretty rough).

The peak of non-touristy was a trip from Hyderabad to Hampi. For relaxation, it wasn’t really the best...

Udaipur is a decent option for rest, even if it’s very touristy. It’s a good place to recharge.

Maheshwar and Orchha offer a more rustic vibe.

A lesser-known wildlife park could also be a good way to unwind a bit.

The Delhi-Bhopal train line passes through lots of interesting places, so you don’t have to exhaust yourself with transportation (Agra, Gwalior, Orchha, Sanchi, Bhopal).

Thanks again for these suggestions... For now, I'm still reading trip reports and travel journals, mapping out connections between cities that seem pretty easy by public transport, and listing the places that appeal to me. While we have a fairly clear idea of what we want to see in the South, the North is still a bit of a blur, and we’ll have to make some choices... A few questions crossing my mind: - We want to go to Varanasi: is it worth continuing east afterward to visit a Buddhist site like Bodh Gaya (knowing we’d like to diversify our cultural visits)? And going all the way to Calcutta? (Given we enjoyed discovering Mumbai, but is it comparable as a megacity?) - I’d like us to be in a region with a Christian community around Christmas: Goa with Old Goa? Kerala (though it fits less well with our itinerary, and I’m worried it’ll be packed in late December). Thanks in advance to those who’ll share their thoughts on these places (Bodh Gaya, Calcutta) and on spending Christmas in Goa. Same for Kerala...

Well, Kolkata—having been back there in April—is nothing like Mumbai. It’s Kolkata: it hits you hard. Are you ready for that? The city has its own soul, and you won’t see the same kind of street-level progress as in other cities, but it’s still incredibly interesting. If you want to see a region with Catholics around Kolkata, there are plenty, and Meghalaya and Nagaland are Catholic. It might be too far, though. In Bodh Gaya, you’ve got Buddhist monasteries from all over Asia right next to the impoverished local population. In Varanasi, you can go during Chhath Puja, which happens soon after Diwali—a festival also celebrated in Bodh Gaya. But all of that is far from Kerala, and even in three months, it’s a lot of moving around. It really depends on how you travel. India is lived, not just visited.

I just read your latest travel journal entry about Calcutta... and it’s actually making me want to discover the city! But I’m well aware that 3 months is still short, and it’s the perfect opportunity to travel differently—taking more time and adding less touristy stops between the "must-sees." Speaking of which, I bought an IGN map of India that really helps visualize the huge distances, not to mention the road conditions and traffic! So for now, I’m still gathering information, and later I’ll pick what works best for us to build a coherent itinerary (teachers will recognize the approach 😉 ).

Hi Penelou, you're right—Gokarna is amazing. For me, it was a time of rest and peace. I stayed there for two weeks. I rented a bike, but I’ll admit a scooter would’ve been smarter given the temperatures in March. Here’s a photo of the place where I found some quiet, away from the "trendy" spots—for 750 rupees (you *have* to negotiate everywhere), I could also reach Gokarna by the beach. Safe travels, Namaste.

Hello, We’ve already traveled to India twice before, but only for two-week trips (2013, a loop from Mumbai including Hampi, and in 2019, Tamil Nadu). This time, we’re leaving at the end of October for nearly three months, which is a first for us! We’ll arrive in Delhi and depart from Bangalore. Our goal is to explore North India and then head down to Kerala, taking a flight just once and prioritizing trains as much as possible. Traveling for this long should let us plan longer stops to slow down and fully enjoy the trip... What places did you love with this in mind? I’ve already thought of Gokarna... Any other suggestions, especially in North India? Thanks in advance for your tips!

Thanks for sharing this! It really does seem like Gokarna would be a great fit for us!

Personally, I really love Calcutta. It’s a megacity, that’s for sure, but there are quite a few neighborhoods where you can wander around on foot through the alleys. There’s plenty to keep you busy for a few days, especially if you have a quiet place to stay (I’d avoid Sudder Street, but that’s just my opinion). I don’t know if it’s been mentioned yet, but the tribal villages in Orissa and Chattisgarh are a great opportunity for some peaceful walks away from the crowds and some really nice train rides.

Hi Penelou, India is 6 times the size of France, so you’ll have to make some choices... But there are plenty of spots to relax in northern India. For example, Gujarat, especially from November to the end of February, is the best season for this state. Beaches (Mandvi, Diu), architectural wonders (Patan, Palitana, Junagadh, Dwarka)... Madhya Pradesh is also a less-visited state, apart from Khajuraho and Gwalior. Yet it’s full of treasures (Maheshwar, Mandu, Chanderi, Udayagiri, Bateshwar, Amarkantak). In West Bengal, you’ll find unique red-brick temples, like those in Bishnupur, Bolpur, or Rajbari. And Odisha, which I love too... :)