The Pearl of Africa - July-August 2026 (page 1 of 4)

Preamble: Africa was calling to me, so a year ago, with our usual travel companions, we decided to return to the continent we love so much. Where to go? Uganda quickly caught our attention—wildlife we’re used to seeing, plus gorillas and the shoebill we missed in Zambia. We got in touch with Paul, who’s been mentioned several times on the forum back in September, booked our flight tickets, secured the gorilla permits, and by early October, the most important things were done. We still had plenty of time to hold our "prep meetings" for the final itinerary.

Three days before departure, I sprained my ankle (my weak spot, as you’ll recall from our Colombia trip). I wasn’t in great spirits, but after a year of waiting, nothing was going to stop me. We’d see how it goes! Off we went for our new adventures

Hi Jean Pascal, Here’s a country that’s been catching my eye for a while. I’d love to come along with you! 😊 Christelle

I’m also really excited to be joining: Uganda remains one of my best travel memories... especially thanks to Paul ;).

Hello to my first two readers

Day 1: Departure:4 AM, leaving the house. We pick up our travel companions and head to St Exupéry. Check-in goes smoothly with Brussels Airlines. I mention that I have difficulty walking. In Brussels and then Entebbe, a wheelchair will be waiting for me, which will save me some energy. I’m pretty optimistic since I’m walking better and better. The flight could’ve been good if not for a family behind us—one gentleman (we only saw him at the end) and a lady with three young kids. Two out of three spent the flight screaming. The poor woman seemed overwhelmed. I’m getting older, but kids screaming gets harder to handle at a certain age. A technical stopover in Kigali where some passengers get off and others board, like a bus! Late arrival in Entebbe, super quick control for me, but not for my friends. All the luggage is there, and the hotel taxi is waiting. Everything’s going smoothly. I’d forgotten that in Africa, the light isn’t as omnipresent as in Europe. Luckily, headlamps come in handy, especially to see where you’re stepping. Cold shower and bedtime. The real adventures start tomorrow… (a real launch, like in the movies!)

The plus: We’re here!! The minus: The endless screaming of kids for over 8 hours.

The - : The endless kids' screaming for over 8 hours.

I feel for you! (it's just that age! 😏)

Hi there, I’m also jumping on the "train"! Thanks for sharing! 😉

So excited for a new African travel journal! A visit to see the gorillas is really tempting... Too bad about that sprained ankle before departure—exactly the kind of thing we dread in the days leading up to a trip...

If you don't mind, I'll join this adventure too—it’ll remind me of ours in Uganda in 2024. What adventures those were! Can’t wait to read more. Loïc

Just so you know, I’ll be slipping in a few photos taken with my phone. It’s not really my thing—I’m more into cinema! But it’ll help illustrate things a bit.

Day 2: Entebbe – Murchison Falls NP Hotel: Oslo Gardens – For the price we paid, it’s great. The room’s small but more than enough. Amazing breakfast. Free shuttle from the airport, and as always throughout the trip, the welcome was super friendly.

Paul arranged to meet us at 8:30 AM. After that time passed, no sign of him. A call, no answer. The stress started to build, but he finally showed up at 9 AM, embarrassed because President Museveni had blocked the roads. Loading the luggage into the old 4x4 was an adventure, but it all fit! Then a quick stop to get some currency, then fuel, water, bananas, and pineapples. At every stop—and this was the case everywhere in the country—Paul knew people, so he’d chat for a while. We left Entebbe pretty late. The road was good, but even though it was a Sunday with less traffic, we drove slowly. Paul’s very cautious, and on top of that, if you talk to him, he slows down and answers while gesturing with his hands. So the trip took longer. We arrived at Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary around 1:15 PM. We thought we’d have lunch, but no—straight into an excursion with a ranger, rifle slung over his shoulder (for him, not us). We drove through the park for a few minutes, the ranger leading the way on his motorcycle. He stopped, we got out of the car, and followed him on foot. We met up with two other rangers (also armed). Then, just a few meters away, a rhino. What a magnificent creature! It was about 8 meters from us, grazing peacefully. We followed it, and the guide suggested we get even closer for a group photo. The big guy ended up just 2 meters away!



Unbelievable! Sure, they’re used to seeing people, but it’s still a wild animal with poor eyesight, so it could be startled by our presence, even if it had picked up our scent. We went a little further and came across four rhinos lying down. A mom-to-be was expecting, so the guide told us we wouldn’t get as close as before. A truly beautiful moment that really kicked off our safari. We had lunch at the center’s restaurant and continued on to Murchison Falls NP. The activity on the road was constant. Small shops lined the way, with fruits and vegetables everywhere, displayed on carefully decorated stalls. There were quite a few shops with old Singer sewing machines—things people under 80 wouldn’t recognize. And lots of mattress stores! Surprisingly, compared to European standards, they were multicolored, creating a riot of colors. We finally arrived at the entrance to Murchison Falls NP. We saw our first baboons, but that was about it since we got to the lodge around 7 PM and it was pitch black. We’d stay there for three nights. Shower (outside), drinks, and dinner. It was a buffet, and I have to say we messed up tactically—before us, a group of Spaniards had gone through and there wasn’t much left. Not only did they beat us in the World Cup, but they also ate everything. Grrr! (Friendly, since I’m of Spanish origin.) We went to bed to the sound of hippos—they weren’t far, and in fact, to get to our rooms, we had to be escorted and then not go out again.

The highlight: Definitely the rhinos. I’d made a top five list of things to see in Uganda: Gorillas – Chimpanzees – Rhinos – Tree-climbing lions – Shoebill. Check! One down!! The low point: I’ll have to think hard. Let’s say the Spaniards. 😄

Paul knows people and so he chats for a good while.

He’d explained that in Africa (at least in Uganda), it’s not done to approach someone without taking the time to chat for a bit—it’s seen as rude. That’s not always how we Europeans do things!

Where did you stay in MFNP?

Day 3: Murchison Falls NP

Early morning wake-up for our first game drive. A hotel security guy comes to pick us up since it's still dark. After a good breakfast, we head to the park. Right outside the hotel, an elephant welcomes us. Then, it's a succession of various antelopes, followed by giraffes, buffaloes, and all sorts of animals that remind me how much I missed seeing these creatures.





Even though, like many, the "big cat hunt" is important, we take the time to observe animal life. A baby nursing, two antelopes fighting, buffaloes staring at us with their intelligent gaze (uh, are you sure?), and lots of birds doing everything to avoid being photographed. The park is really beautiful, green, and varied. It’s not the African savanna you see elsewhere. Meanwhile, Paul is on his phone, checking with all his guide buddies to see where we can spot a big cat. He’s got an impressive network. We’re near the Nile, and the landscape is truly stunning. Suddenly, he speeds up without a word—we’re jostled around but figure there must be something. Sure enough, we arrive at a spot where six 4x4s are parked, and through binoculars, we see a leopard in a tree about 100 meters away. Wow? Not really—it’s far, and there’s a crowd. Even though we, following Paul’s advice, stay completely silent, not everyone does. My better half can’t see it. Personally, I climb onto the roof of the 4x4 (despite my ankle) and spot it well with the binoculars, but only briefly, as it climbs down the tree to hide. In the end, not great—especially since four more vehicles arrived during our observation! We continue through the beautiful landscapes, stumbling upon a patrol of elephants—guaranteed spectacle!



Paul keeps tracking (on the phone), but the heat is rising, and we know that from here on out, the animals will be hiding. So, we head back to the nearby lodge for lunch. Departure at 6:30 AM, return at 1:30 PM—pretty good! 3 PM: We set off again, this time on the Nile for an excursion to see the famous Murchison Falls. Two types of boats: big or small. I ask Paul if we’re taking a small one. He says it’s the big one. Too bad! The cruise is nice—we see the banks of the Nile with the famous crocodiles that haven’t disappeared, hippos, and lots of birds.



It’s still quite long, though. Paul had said 2 hours for the cruise, but it took over an hour and a half just to go upstream. We see the falls, but unfortunately, the boat is too heavy to get as close as the smaller ones. So, keep in mind: small boats go higher, faster, and get closer to the banks. The return trip is a bit quicker, but in total, it lasted nearly 3 hours. Paul suggests another game drive, but we decline—some poolside relaxation will do us good. We’re on vacation, after all, and it’s been pretty intense since we left. The rest of the afternoon passes quietly. Drinks + dinner (this time, we beat the Spaniards to it 😄). Bedtime, and luckily, because a hippo was grazing near our room.

The plus: The animal life, whatever it is. It’s just too beautiful. The minus: Just a tiny downside with the boat choice.

Day 4: Murchison Falls NP

Early wake-up call again because a game drive awaits us. It’s raining a bit, but that doesn’t stop us from taking a shower—in the rain!!



The rain stops just as we hit the trails. Once again, Paul goes out of his way to spot a predator. At one point, he notices a herd of antelopes all looking in the same direction. That’s obviously a telling sign. Sure enough, after a lot of searching, he finds a leopard in a tree 200 meters away—practically at the end of the world! He’s pretty pleased with himself, and fair enough, hats off to him. But it’s not really what we’re after, especially since out of respect, he alerts his guide buddies, and before you know it, 4x4s start showing up. We carry on through this stunning landscape, and once again, giraffes, buffaloes, elephants, antelopes, and birds delight us.



By the way, counting that leopard, we’ve now seen four of the famous "Big Five" described in so many African travel guides. Just the lion left! Coincidence or not, we see a lot of babies, and it’s so heartwarming to watch them discover life. That’ll actually be a constant throughout the trip (shh, don’t spoil it). We take a bathroom break at a spot well-known to all the guides. An armed guard is there for "our safety." A few warthogs have made themselves at home near the trash cans.



We enjoy a delicious pineapple, and the animals come begging for pieces. Makes me think of Namibia, where I struggled to get close to them! Paul keeps searching for predators, but we’re not as eager. The park is truly beautiful, the animals are everywhere—and not just guinea fowl! Back to the lodge for lunch and a bit of rest. Afterward, we ask Paul to take us above the Nile Falls. It’s 40 minutes from the lodge, and you have to pay a fee. Speaking of which, at the checkpoint, I thought I saw Amin Dada. Could he be like Elvis—actually not dead? The guard was a dead ringer for the former dictator. We drive a little more and cross paths with some elephants quenching their thirst.



We finally arrive at the spot. There’s very little walking to do, but for me, it’s a real test. Using my poles as crutches, I make it to the first viewpoint without any issues. What a force of nature—the Nile, so peaceful in Egypt, is raging here! The flow rate is one of the highest in the world. We climb to the second viewpoint, and it’s even more impressive. We get soaked by the spray, but it’s absolutely amazing! Next up: another game drive or pool time. Are we getting old or what? That’s the question. The answer is no, since we choose the first option. Even if spotting predators isn’t the main goal, the search is fun, especially since there’s always something happening. Nothing new under the sun, but it’s always different. Back to the lodge, pack our bags, have a drink, dinner, and bedtime.

The plus: The top of Murchison Falls The minus: I’m struggling.

Day 5: Murchison Falls NP - Kibale

Hotel: Murchison Falls Bamboo Village - Ideally located right near a park entrance. The rooms are very pleasant, the staff friendly, and the buffet-style meals good (though depending on the time, there might be a quantity issue). The pool is nice.

We left later than the previous two days. The drive was going to be long. We chose to spend at least two nights in each place, which meant some long driving days. Today was a transition day. Paul drives very cautiously, as usual. We passed a Total oil drilling station. For now, Uganda doesn’t refine oil, so a huge pipeline was built heading toward Tanzania. Where there’s oil infrastructure, there are good roads. That’s definitely the case here. The landscapes change as we head toward the mountains, especially the crater lake region. This is banana country. I’m going to eat my fill. In fact, I’ll quickly be nicknamed Bananaman! Uganda is the world’s biggest banana producer but exports very little because local consumption is so high. Only Canada, the UK, and the US get exports. Very little chance of finding Ugandan bananas in France. Sniff! Lunch stop at a lodge where plenty of 4x4s (and guides, of course) are gathered. The road continues, the landscapes are still beautiful, and the road is good. We arrive in Fort Portal around 3 PM. A fuel stop, and we find Ugandan wine. Having done several oenology internships, I can’t resist buying some. I’ve tasted wine from many countries (Turkey, Uzbekistan, China among the most exotic), so I had to try it. Tip if you come across this wine: avoid it!!!



We enter Kibale Park (no fees). Paul explains that in some places along a few kilometers of the road, there are baboons that can "attack" either those carrying food or women alone. Women here never walk without a man present, who can even be a baby. Incredible—if a woman walks with a boy, even a very young one, she’s safe. We’ll see this firsthand (no attacks, but all women are accompanied!). While he’s explaining this, he slows down because baboons are blocking the road. Suddenly, they rush toward the car, and Paul says, "Darn, I forgot the pineapples!" Sure enough, due to lack of space, he had strapped the pineapples to the roof rack, and we had to pay our toll. We arrive at our lodge, where we’re immediately asked for our dinner menu. The place is magical. Paul is tired, so we leave him alone and spend the rest of the day watching monkeys move around us in a cacophony of screams. Dinner and bedtime.

The plus: the stunning landscapes in banana country The minus: baboons everywhere

Day 6: Kibale

A highlight of the trip: chimpanzee tracking. At 8 AM, the four of us are at the starting point. Once the administrative formalities are done (tickets, passports, and all that jazz), all the tourists are gathered in a room where, after a video explaining what to do and what not to do, a ranger repeats the instructions and assigns us a guide—who, by the way, is a woman. Pants tucked into socks to avoid itchy ants, mask in my pocket, no food, camera ready, and walking sticks for me—off we go. It’s pretty easy. Our guide, accompanied by two rangers (one in front, one behind with a rifle), explains that the only real danger is the forest elephants. For years, I’ve heard about how dangerous forest elephants are compared to those on the plains (which aren’t exactly cuddly either—let’s keep things in perspective), but I’ll admit the reason I’d been given seemed weak. They’d told me it was because of shyness. Sure, that’s part of it (shoutout to Lautner!), but not the whole story! Turns out they feed on berries in the forest that basically get them drunk, making them completely unpredictable (our guide gave us a more sugar-coated version, but my blunt take sums it up). Later on the trail, we spot one about 50 meters away, and the rangers immediately snap into action, even though the elephant just keeps on its way. The walk lasts a good half-hour. Even though the different groups start off in different directions, we end up merging with another (slightly noisy) group. Suddenly, both guides (yes, there are two guides because there are two groups—hope you’re following!) leave the trail, and I see the other group running. I catch a glimpse of a chimpanzee followed by tourists. It all happens too fast for me (darn sprained ankle!). At one point, the primate (not from Gaul) climbs a tree. After a few photos, the other group moves on in search of more chimpanzees, as this one isn’t very visible. Our guide tells us it’s better to wait—more will arrive, and something’s bound to happen. We wait for a while, craning our necks, when suddenly one of the rangers signals us. Sure enough, four chimpanzees arrive and climb up to join their buddy. It’s a shame they’re up in the trees—neck strain is real—but we can still see expressions that remind us just how close they are to humans. (Just to be clear, I *did* write "Human" with a capital H!)



At one point, the guide tells us a female is getting a male worked up, so there’s probably going to be an X-rated scene. And sure enough, it happens—but before we can even blink, it’s over. She goes off to find other partners, not because she wasn’t satisfied, but because she needs multiple experiences during this season (if we can call it that). The male, meanwhile, stretches out on a branch, legs crossed and one hand behind his head. All he’s missing is a whiskey and a cigarette. Unbelievable!

Photo taken before the X-rated scene: You’ll notice the photographer carefully placed a leaf over the chimpanzee’s private parts to avoid shocking anyone or getting censored 😛

Once he’s rested, he climbs down from the tree and poses for 5 minutes in front of the cameras before suddenly deciding to leave. The whole group follows at a quick pace—except for me (sore ankle) and my friend (not in great shape). My friend’s husband and wife, however, keep up with the group. I’m happy for my wife—she was really skeptical and didn’t feel like seeing our cousins. In the end, she was pretty happy, especially about having gone. We end up on a trail (the same one as the elephant mentioned earlier), wait a bit, and Paul, alerted by the guide, comes to pick us up in a 4x4. Back at the center for an official tracker diploma presentation, followed by a good lunch at the lodge. A much-needed nap, especially for my ankle, which is actually feeling better. I’m optimistic about the gorilla tracking. In the late afternoon, Paul takes us to Bigodi Swamp. A few monkeys, a couple of birds, and a local guide who isn’t very talkative. We walk around the swamp a bit, though it’s hard to see much through the thick vegetation, and then we arrive in the community. It’s well-organized—they’re expecting us to show us the different steps of coffee production. We get to taste it, of course—it’s quite smooth. There’s an option to buy, of course! Then we walk a little further, and some women are waiting to show us how they make baskets. It’s pretty interesting to see how they use leaves for coloring. After that, there are dances. Finally, about a hundred meters later, it’s the banana experience. We taste some juice—really, really good—then banana beer, and finally banana gin. The last one, at 60°, is *brutal*. Back at the lodge, no aperitif—my mouth is still on fire. Dinner and bedtime.

The plus: Chimpanzees were amazing! We’re making progress on my wishlist: Gorillas – Chimpanzees – Rhinoceroses – Lions in trees – Shoebill

The minus: Why are the other groups we meet less disciplined around the animals than we are?

Hi Jean-Pascal,

Reading your post brought back almost identical memories (minus the ankle, sorry) of the same adventures:

https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10653586#10653586 Day 10 Hike for the chimpanzees in Kibale Forest**** A moment shared with my wife this time. About ten groups of around ten people each were formed at the start. Each group had a guide (a female guide for us) and one or two rangers. After an hour of walking through dense forest, we came across a group of chimpanzees, rather scattered (nothing like the still, clustered gorillas), moving through the trees. Contact was pretty easy, and we got some great photos. Toward the end of our hour with the chimps, an incident occurred. A chimpanzee walking ahead of the group suddenly turned around and bolted in the opposite direction. Our guide and the rangers instantly sensed danger. We were told not to move and to stay put with the guide while the two rangers moved forward into the forest. A few moments later, we jumped at the sound of several gunshots. The guide explained there was a forest elephant nearby. These are known to be dangerous at times since they’re not used to humans. They tend to charge. Another round of gunshots told us the stubborn one hadn’t changed direction. About ten minutes later, everything calmed down. Our return was much quieter. Hike in Bigodi Swamp* – how to get scammed? You buy two tickets for a guided tour of this swamp, rich in different monkey species and birds, then head off with a guide. Ten minutes later, she explains that actually, we’ll just walk around the swamp without going in because it’s impassable—the paths and even the bridges are flooded... too much water. Okay, we paid but didn’t see much. A few monkeys, though. Night at Isunga Lodge***

Our Uganda video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-Kl-1cxB1A&t=32s The chimpanzee encounter in Kibale is at 32'33"

Looking forward to hearing the rest of your adventures. Uganda was such a beautiful memory. To be continued, Loïc

Hi Loïc, It’s true that the experiences are similar. It makes sense overall. More to come... Happy reading. See you,

Day 7: Kibale - QEP

Hotel: Chimpanzee Capital Safari Lodge – TB, the welcome is amazing, the meals are good, and the place is magical, nestled in the forest surrounded by monkeys and birds. Lucky break, we got upgraded to family rooms.

Once again, we’ve got a day of driving ahead. However, Paul suggests taking a detour through the mountains to get a closer look at life there. The landscapes are once again stunning. Uganda really offers incredible views and variety.



We stop at a village, and a guide offers to show us the community and take us to the edge of two crater lakes. We take a little two-hour hike through various plantations and lakes. The cost is really minimal, and the money goes to an orphanage. The journey continues, and we leave the mountains to arrive on a plateau that leads us to the town of Kasese. Quite industrial, Kasese is a hub for trade between Uganda and the DRC. When withdrawing money, Paul recommends washing our hands thoroughly afterward. This is the only time he mentions Ebola. There are a lot of Congolese here, so the risk of contamination is higher. But let’s keep it in perspective—it’s less than 1%. According to Ugandan authorities, Ebola has been eradicated because they took the necessary measures. At the entrance of all the parks, they announce health measures. Uh… we didn’t see any of that! Personally, we followed the recommendations from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs (travel advice). No sexual relations with locals, no overly friendly contact, we didn’t attend any funerals, we didn’t touch wild animals, we didn’t visit rural hospitals, and we didn’t eat bushmeat. We had a meal at a (tourist) restaurant, and after crossing the equator, we arrived at the entrance of QEP (Queen Elizabeth Park).



A short game drive awaits us. The landscape is completely different from Murchison Falls NP. Here, it’s savanna, reminiscent of other countries. Few elephants in herds—mostly solitary ones. No giraffes, but plenty of antelopes again and buffalo.



At one point, Paul speeds up the game drive, and soon we spot some 4x4s. There’s something there! Sure enough, a family of lions is frolicking happily (why not!). They’re about a hundred meters away. We follow them by car. Each guide tries to anticipate where they’ll go and positions themselves accordingly. With a big lens, you can see them well, but with my camera, they’re not filmable. No big deal—the No. 5 (not Chanel) of the Top Five is checked off. I hope tomorrow we’ll get to see them up closer. After a beautiful sunset, it’s time to head to our lodge, 40 minutes away. We arrive at night. The welcome is friendly again. The owner shows us to our rooms, and when we see ours, the disappointment is huge. We don’t say anything, take a shower, and then have dinner with our friends. They’re thrilled with their room—they even filmed it. When we see their footage, we’re shocked… I call the owner and ask to change rooms. He made a mistake—he gave us a room meant for staff. However, he only has one like our friends’, and the second one will be a little better. Dinner and bedtime. This lodge had won us over with its pictures. For now, we haven’t seen anything because we arrived at night and were given a bad room. Wait and see.

The plus: The crater lakes’ landscapes The minus: The room mix-up

WARNING, DAY 8 WILL BE EXTRAORDINARY!!!!

Day 8: QEP

Early morning wake-up and night departure—we still haven’t seen what the lodge looks like. I had a bit of trouble spotting where the entrance gates to QEP (Queen Elizabeth Park—I’ll write it out in full just this once!) were. I have to say, this park is quite special because there are villages inside it. The main (paved) road runs right through it. Before even entering the heart of the park, you can come across elephants, buffaloes, and antelopes. So, I wasn’t entirely sure where to book. I ended up choosing a lodge recommended by Paul, but it turned out to be about forty minutes from the park entrance. Despite that, we arrived relatively early and started the game drive, which today turned out to be a *Lion King* remake (in Uganda). Paul set the scene for us: After a few kilometers on the main track, we stopped alongside another 4x4. A lion was lying just a few meters away. We quickly noticed that one of his paws was cleanly severed. He walks on three legs because, as a cub, he got caught in a poacher’s trap. He’s survived all these years, thanks in part to his brother. They’ve lived together for years. After taking some photos and more 4x4s arriving, we moved on and soon came across the family we’d seen the day before—two lionesses and three teenagers. They were a bit closer than yesterday, but Paul thought things might change. Note that driving off-track is prohibited, except, of course, for rangers (this will be important later). Today, a ranger vehicle was following this little group. Suddenly, we spotted a handsome male lion behind them, about fifty meters away from the group. After a moment of rest, the group started moving again, slightly toward our track. So, the 4x4s present moved forward, and Paul anticipated a bit. The rangers’ 4x4 followed (much closer), and so did the male. At that moment, Paul told us that this was the handicapped lion’s brother—he’s the one in charge!

The brother

Not far away, a lovely herd of buffaloes grazed peacefully (saying that makes it sound like a postcard!). Twice, the group stopped, and the brother did the same, always keeping his distance. Then, calmly, he approached the group. With our mischievous minds, we thought he was looking for a conquest (we didn’t put it in those terms). He passed the group and moved a little farther away. Paul was very surprised because, after talking to another ranger who was there (on a motorcycle), he told us the brother’s intention wasn’t to mate but to kill one of the cubs—his own offspring—to become the territory’s master. And what was bound to happen, happened. Everyone was shocked. It lasted only a few seconds, and we didn’t have time to film it all. Suddenly, the brother (are you still following?) attacked the group. What followed was a quick but incredibly violent fight, with a cloud of dust and deafening roars. We couldn’t see anything, but we could hear it. Meanwhile, the herd of buffaloes (and no, it wasn’t just a postcard) started attacking everyone (when I said it was *The Lion King*, I didn’t mean with wildebeests but with buffaloes). I can tell you, it was loud. Luckily, the rangers in the 4x4 quickly drove toward the buffaloes, making them change course—otherwise, they might have killed all the lions. It all lasted less than a minute, but what a story! Once the buffaloes were scattered and the dust settled, we tried to assess the situation. The brother had moved away, two cubs quickly rejoined the lionesses, but the heir was missing! (It sounds dramatic to call him that.) We could see the lionesses searching, but no luck!

A mother searching for her son

They continued on their way and soon crossed the track in front of us, passing between the 4x4s. We followed them for a while, then stopped when they were too far to film. What a scene! Paul suggested we head to another part of the park with different vegetation and plenty of trees that could potentially shelter leopards. So, we turned around and left the other 4x4s behind. We passed the spot of “the scene” again and drove about 500 meters farther. And of course, the story ends there because just a few meters away, we found “the heir,” alone and looking lost, with three claw marks on his thigh.

The heir

We wanted to point him in the direction of the rest of the group, but no one volunteered to whisper in his ear. Maybe he’ll meet Timon or Pumba? Paul reassured us a bit. Since this family is closely monitored by rangers, they’ll make sure he finds his way back. Really, what a story. The rest of the game drive was much calmer. Nature took its course. At 1 p.m., we headed toward the park exit and the dock for a cruise on the Kazinga Channel. This time, we had a small boat. It got close to the banks, which was great. Our guide, Zoé, was passionate and really wanted to show us as much as possible. First, easy—an elephant drinking. Then hippos, crocodiles, buffaloes, and antelopes.



Harder—she helped us spot birds, each more beautiful than the last, and then we saw monitor lizards. The cruise lasted two hours and was truly a kaleidoscope of wildlife. Afterward, once Paul picked us up, he rushed to a part of the park we didn’t know, in the opposite direction from the entrance. We drove and drove, then he stopped and pointed out two lions in the trees. They were about fifty meters away, but it was still quite strange. Paul really has an impressive network! With our heads full of images, we headed back toward the (official) park entrance in search of leopards. Less lucky this time—we didn’t see any big cats in the late afternoon, but once again, plenty of animal scenes that make us love Africa. Back to the lodge. Hey! It’s dark! Still haven’t seen the lodge! Drinks, dinner, bedtime.

The +++: *The Lion King* Ugandan edition The +: Gorillas – Chimpanzees – Rhinos – Lions in trees – Shoebill.

The -: Nothing, nada, nothing, Nichego, nichts, tewali, hech narsa, hakuna kitu

What a buzz! And so many lions (despite Paul's ++ efforts, we hadn't seen a single one the whole trip 🏴‍☠️)

Hi Jean-Pascal

The landscapes are stunning 🙂

Uganda often stands out as a traveler’s favorite destination, and it’s easy to see why.

It’s a bit pricey, especially with the permits you need to buy, but it’s definitely worth it.

Thanks for your travel journal!