Off on an adventure in Namibia! (page 1 of 9)

April 11 – Day 1

It was winter, a winter with beautiful weather, A season that only exists in the southwest of America, I remember very well what I told you that morning A month ago... A century ago, an eternity ago... We’ll go... wherever you want, whenever you want...

Well, yeah, back from our adventure in our enchanting American West just a month ago, we’re already taking a bite out of one of its lesser-known competitors. "Flo, if you had to pick just one reason to justify your love for the U.S., what would it be?" The greasy, dripping burgers? No, I don’t think I’m going out on a limb by saying it’d be the wide-open spaces... And that’s exactly what our new quest is taking us to—a land on the other side of the globe where the horizon also seems endless, where silence tastes like salty wind and sand, where freedom is measured in kilometers of desert tracks, where the GPS is mostly there to confirm you’re lost in the middle of nowhere... Add to that magic formula the fact that you’ll see more zebras, giraffes, wildebeest, and elephants than people per square kilometer, and you can imagine us setting foot in Southern Africa for the first time, more precisely at the small airport in Windhoek, capital of... of...? Brush up on your geography, damn it! We’re landing in Namibia!!!



To be honest, Namibian landscapes have been flirting with me for ages. So how did I resist this island of temptation for so long? First, the budget. Let’s just say that for the same amount of effort (and kidneys), the bank lets you choose two other adventures almost anywhere else on the planet. Then there were my girls. Yeah, back then, they were too little to dose up on Malarone, the only malaria remedy at the time... Long story short, ten years later, all the planets have aligned. First, I won the Euromillions! Well, almost... Let’s just say my girls are now old enough... not to take Malarone, but to stop following me on all my adventures! Jackpot! "Flo, how about a little two-person caprice, just the two of us, tackling the Namibian tracks?"



As we landed on the runway, first wow effect: The horizon is immense. It’s flat as can be, incredibly flat... So much flat space! Did I mention it was flat?... Looking into the distance, it feels like your gaze could circle the Earth without hitting a single obstacle—until you end up staring at your own backside. "Oh, what a nice view!" Well, it’s the first time I’ve seen my butt from this angle! Touching moment... Sorry, I’m rambling—must be the exhaustion from the three-flight marathon we just powered through via Ethiopia and South Africa... And yet, no time to philosophize about my anatomy. As usual, we want to rack up our first kilometers to be front and center at dawn tomorrow. After wrapping up the tedious Namibian immigration formalities and meeting the 4x4 that’ll be our companion day and night for the next fifteen days, we’re off! We’re not exactly fresh, but we’re ready to tackle the next five hundred kilometers in night mode, cruise control set due south! Just outside Windhoek, the local wildlife—a jackal—welcomes us with a smile: "Welcome to Namibia!" That’s what it said! Honest... Okay, first endless straight road, first flaming sunset, first corrugated dirt track, first Milky Way with zero light pollution... You get it—it’s definitely the day of firsts... First night camping, too, in the big trunk of our Toyota Fortuner parked by the side of the track... The real adventure, the kind that smells under the arms, can finally begin...

April 12 – Day 2

First wake-up in Namibia in the back of our car-kitchen-bedroom. But not just anywhere! We open our eyes under our lone tree by the track, right in the heart of the Kalahari—a region whose name alone is enough to make you travel. A name that’s been making me dream ever since I watched *The Gods Must Be Crazy* on a VHS tape on my parents’ old VCR when I was a kid. And now, here I am, waiting for my own Coca-Cola bottle to fall from the sky...



At one and a half times the size of France, Namibia scatters its population—equivalent to that of Paris—across a vast territory, giving us a mere 2.6 inhabitants per square kilometer, the second-lowest density in the world after Mongolia... Since the Kalahari is one of Namibia’s least populated regions, you can easily imagine there’s no crowd at the starting point of our first hike of the trip, set in Giant’s Playground at the heart of the Kokerboomwoud forest. Well, *forest* might be a bit of a stretch—the Namibian version of the concept leans more toward a desert where a host of quiver trees duel like artistic sculptures, seemingly mocking the aridity of this entirely mineral landscape. What an incredible introduction!

Day 2 (continued)

And if I’m talking about an appetizer, it’s because we’ve got a main course on the menu, right?... Everyone knows the Grand Canyon in Arizona is number one on the list of the world’s biggest canyons. Everyone also knows Arizona isn’t in Namibia. But if I ask you which canyon comes in second, you’d guess this underdog is hiding here in southern Namibia! This gorge goes by the name Fish River Canyon, and now that we’re standing in front of it, I can tell you it’s no second fiddle: 150 kilometers long, 30 kilometers wide, and over 500 meters deep. Want more stats?... Over 6 million people visit the Grand Canyon every year. Less than one percent of that number make it to the rugged rock formations of the Fish River in Namibia! Uh, I did the math on my fingers to figure out how many daily visitors that is, and let’s just say it’s a few more than just Flo and Franck wandering the trails of this national park today!

Because here, every viewpoint is ours. Our picnic spot is private. This canyon exists only for our wide-eyed wonder. Welcome to the kingdom of solitude and vastness, where silence is part of the landscape...



Since the descent into the canyon’s depths is restricted and heavily regulated, we satisfy our frustration with all the little hikes available along the rim, going from one breathtaking viewpoint to another even more breathtaking one.









"It’s seriously stunning, Flo, but what if we went down just a little—even a few dozen meters of elevation—wouldn’t the view be even better? - Maybe, but it’s not allowed, and I don’t want to get kicked out of Namibia on the first day... - Okay... It’s seriously stunning, Flo, but... - Alright! But make it quick, then..."





Anyway, we don’t regret all the kilometers we’ve already covered to get here. Speaking of which, on a two-week Namibian road trip like ours, travelers usually have to choose between the far north of the country and its famous Epupa Falls, or the far south with its Fish River Canyon. I can’t choose between my two girls. Same goes for Namibia: you don’t leave one beauty behind. To hell with the kilometers—both are on the itinerary... if the road gods allow it...

Day 2 (continued)









All this to say that once the little brother of the Grand Canyon was well etched in our retinas, we devoted the rest of our day to the road again. Or should I say, to the magnificent track, because in Namibia, tarmac is an endangered species. Another thing to remember: here, we drive on the left! But the most surprising part is that here, we signal our turns with a windshield wiper! Oh, I’m told in my earpiece that I’m the only one doing that... Alright, no worries, we’ll get used to this Namibian life that’s the complete opposite of our French habits. Oh, look—aren’t those six giraffes strolling over there by the side of the track! And here’s an ostrich! Let’s add four springboks to the guest list! "Good evening, tonight’s menu offers oryx steak or a biltong salad..." Okay, fine, it’ll take us a little time to get used to all this. In the meantime, if you’re wondering—yeah, we’re loving it!...

Bibouns is back! I'm hopping in the 4x4...

Bibouns is back! I'm climbing into the 4x4...

Come on, come on... Did you finish reading your US travel journal before switching to this one? 😛 😏

A well-known destination that I’m rediscovering with pleasure through your epic and flowery writing!

Ah, the windshield wipers... The worst part is that on the way back, since we’ve gotten used to driving on the left, it starts all over again... 😏

Bibouns is back! I'm climbing into the 4x4...

Hop hop hop... Did you finish reading your US travel journal before switching to this one? 😛 😏

When it's gone, there's still more...

Hi Franck,

We haven’t even had time to unpack our suitcases or do our laundry since getting back from the western USA, and we’re already leaving for Namibia with our dirty clothes! § Oh well, we’re still heading off and loving every minute of it!

While the US doesn’t really excite me, Namibia might just be one of my next destinations (with fewer km to cover, 😏). So, I’m jumping in for another lively travel story 😎.

While the United States doesn’t excite me that much, Namibia could definitely be one of my next destinations (with fewer miles to cover 😏)—so, I’m diving into another lively travel story 😎.

The U.S. doesn’t excite you that much? What’s the reason? Haven’t you read my adventures there yet? 😄😏😏

A destination I’m happy to revisit through your epic and colorful writing!

Ah, windshield wipers... The worst part is that on the way back, since we’ve gotten used to driving on the left, it starts all over again...😏

The advantage I have over you is that even after two weeks, I still hadn’t gotten used to it! Welcome aboard, anyway!

Bibouns is back! I'm hopping in the 4x4...

Come on, come on... Did you finish reading your US travel journal before switching to this one? 😛 😏

When there's no more, there's still some left....

Since work’s slowed down, I’m even thinking of posting my Uzbekistan travel journal here!

Hi Franck,

We haven’t even had time to unpack our suitcases or do our laundry since getting back from the American West, and we’re already leaving for Namibia with our dirty clothes§ Oh well, we’re still going and we’re loving it!

But our US travel journal isn’t finished yet. The last day is being published today! Hurry up, you’re gonna miss your flight! 😛

Bibouns is back! I'm climbing into the 4x4...

Come on, come on... Did you finish reading your US travel journal before switching to this one? 😛 😏

When there's no more, there's still some left....

Since work’s slowed down, I’m even thinking of posting my Uzbekistan travel journal here!

Uzbekistan—I’d join in too! The destination interests me, but I can’t find much info on independent travel 😉.

Your wish is my command! Here I go, publishing my travel journal from Uzbekistan:

Off we go adventuring in Uzbekistan! | Travel Journal > Uzbekistan | Voyage Forum

April 13 – Day 3

Namibia was once under German protectorate, and a few traces of that colonial past still remain in the country. So no, you didn’t accidentally switch channels during a commercial—we’re still very much in Southern Africa, and don’t be surprised to see us kick off this new day at Klein Aus Vista, where we hit the ground running (or should I say, hiking?) the second we got up! Nothing like a quick six-kilometer warm-up to catch a sunrise over the endless savanna from the top of the Mountain Trail... Since the best views go to those who rise early, Mother Nature treated us to one of her finest displays. And since she had no one else to reward, she officially handed us our grand kudu badge!













Next, still in that guttural Teutonic vibe, we headed to Kolmanskop, a small town that emerged from the depths of the sand at the start of the last century. No water, no gold—but diamonds! And not just a few! A mountain of diamonds! Within a few years, the little town thrived: around 1,200 residents, elegant houses, a casino, a ballroom, a bowling alley, a high-tech hospital equipped with Africa’s first X-ray machine. Not to treat its residents, mind you, but to make sure no miner had accidentally swallowed even a tiny piece of that day’s haul... Unfortunately, all good things must come to an end, and the vein started to dry up. So did the population. By 1956, everyone packed up for good, leaving behind houses, furniture, and ghosts. The desert has since taken over, sand creeping into living rooms, climbing staircases, and reshaping the landscape. Today, Kolmanskop is nothing more than a ghost town frozen in time, where yesterday’s luxury now shares space with the dunes... It’s even become a museum town. All this history just to tell you: we’re visiting it right now.









Okay, I’ve got to admit—I’m about as big a fan of urban exploration as I am of Jul... Flo really wanted this detour, which didn’t seem essential to me at first. But you know what? Now that I’ve wandered through these photogenic, crumbling houses and felt like I time-traveled a hundred years back, I can confirm this visit is up there with Jul’s lyrical genius! Though the real truth is elsewhere: Flo got her visit, and Flo is one happy camper! *Thy will be done, on earth as it is in heaven...* And whoever keeps their wife happy will go far on these adventures. Amen. Yes, that’s from me...

Day 3 (continued)



Next up, I’m firing up the superlative machine again. After a few errands and a picnic in the rocky surroundings of Lüderitz, we’re now crossing through Tsau Khaeb National Park. A straight road, sure. But what a road, wow! It’s crazy how you can find such beauty in this vast emptiness. A gradient of soft yellow and pastel pink... And those little perpendicular tracks that let us get close to our first groups of oryx. Magical... Namibia, watch your back—we’re falling for your charm!









Will the Kana’an Desert be more of the same? Affirmative, captain! We take the long D707 track to find out, where only a few lonely ostriches keep us company in this outrageously vast expanse that’s flirting with our calves... Perfect timing—I’d marked on the map the option of a night stop at the Namtib Desert Lodge campsite, where you can wander the Botanical Trail and meander through the surrounding mountains. Supposedly, the place is teeming with wildlife... Rumor also has it you can enjoy a nice cold beer while watching the sun dip behind the savanna for the night... Legend even says the place offers what civilized folks call a "shower"... Basically, a little slice of paradise on earth... In other words, a snapshot of Namibia, right?

Uzbekistan / Namibia... both destinations have been on my mind for an upcoming trip soon.

It’s been years (yes, years!) since I’ve been reading some of your travel journals. Usually, I don’t read them in full, I admit... I just pick bits here and there, sometimes smiling as I go... What a way with words, I envy you! But this time, I promise, I’ll follow both of these road trip journals to the end.

The fact that Namibia is more populated than Mongolia actually made me smile... I’ve just come back from Mongolia!

Anyway, there’s not even a choice to make: I plan to do both. I can’t wait to devour your stories to fuel my future itineraries. Thanks for sharing, and looking forward to reading more!

Uzbekistan / Namibia... both destinations have been on my mind for an upcoming trip. It’s been years (yes, years!) since I’ve been reading some of your travel journals. Usually, I don’t read them in full, I admit... I just pick bits here and there, sometimes smiling... What a way with words, I envy you! But this time, I promise, I’ll follow both of these road trip journals to the end. Seeing that Namibia is more populated than Mongolia actually made me smile... I just got back from Mongolia! Anyway, there’s not even a choice to make: I plan to do both. I can’t wait to devour your stories to inspire my future itineraries. Thanks for sharing, and looking forward to reading more!

I hope my ramblings will confirm your desire to visit these two totally different, yet equally amazing, destinations! Sure, you can follow along to the end, but watch out—I’ll make sure to test you with a pop quiz at the end! 😏