Off on an adventure in Uzbekistan! (page 1 of 6)

April 5 - Day 1

After as many weeks as I have fingers on my right hand, we're hitting the road again, fully recovered from our pharaonic adventure. Back in France to drop off our daughters (sorry, girls!), this time it's just the two of us, ready to be welcomed by a new destination. They say it offers one of the richest cultural heritages in the world for those willing to put in the effort. It's the land of the ancient Silk Road, where we'll follow a journey steeped in history and discoveries straight out of *One Thousand and One Nights*. A former Soviet bloc region independent only since 1991, we'll be walking in the footsteps of Genghis Khan, Tamerlane, Alexander the Great, Marco Polo...

Another fun fact about this country: it's strictly forbidden to import porn on your phone. True story. The same goes for painkillers! Unless it's about sodomy—though the two don’t seem connected, that’s just how it is. Don’t ask me why! Anyway, I’m getting off track. Here’s the big question: Where do you think we’ve just landed?... To give you a hint, the locals are known for being incredibly welcoming. No sooner said than done—our first taxi driver, proud to transport French travelers, refused to let us pay for the ride. Great vibes for these two weeks ahead. So, any guesses? Uzbekistan!!!

Folks, the carbon footprint for this past year is like that of a whole battalion of Leclerc tanks! 😉

Bibouns, that's the carbon footprint of a battalion of Leclerc tanks for this past year! 😉

Uzbekistan was April 2025. By April 2026, we were in Namibia! Phew...

April 6 - Day 2

Who on earth came up with the crazy idea of visiting a "stan" country? Like every flavor, you either love or hate the "stan" countries. And just like with any flavor, you’ve got to try it to have your own opinion! "But why on earth are you going there? You must be masochists! And by the way, where exactly is your Bidulstan? - Oh, it’s simple—it’s between Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Afghanistan, and Kazakhstan." And just like that, you’ve lost a few friends.

Quick culture bite I’m spreading like jam: Why do we have a bunch of countries in this part of the world whose names end in "stan"? Well, in Persian, "stan" means "the land of." The land of the Afghans, the land of the Kazakhs, the land of the Tajiks. And so, the land of the Uzbeks—our new buddies for the next two weeks since, as you’ve now figured out, we’re in Uzbekistan. More specifically, in Tashkent, its capital, where we landed last night.

The few tourists who’ve been to Uzbekistan all agree on one thing in the reviews you read online: It’s best to visit Tashkent *before* getting swept away by the country’s other cities, or you might find the capital a bit bland. It’s true that at first glance, this city seems pretty modern for a country known for its ancient history. But history itself decided, via a terrible earthquake in 1966, to level a huge part of the city, leaving 300,000 people homeless and forcing them to rebuild everything in a more modern style!

Alright, do you know how to walk a lot, in style, in style? Do you know how to walk a lot, in the style of our place? Because here we go on our urban trek—the goal is to cross the city on foot from east to west. And in this Muslim country, what’s more normal than starting at the Cathedral of the Sacred Heart of Jesus?... We came, we saw, next. We then cross Eco Park to reach one of the city’s landmarks: the Uzbekistan Hotel, built in the Soviet era. It really has that Cold War vibe, a mix of luxury and decay. Its sixteenth floor, though, gives us a panoramic view of the city.









Back on Uzbek ground, we cross Amir Timur Street to reach Amir Timur Square, where the Amir Timur Museum stands near a huge statue of... you know who! Uzbeks are incredibly proud of their national hero. Tamerlan—his nickname—is kind of their Napoleon. And that means he didn’t exactly bring good vibes everywhere he went...



Independence Square, the Romanov Palace, the World War II memorial, City Park, the Koudeldach Madrasa... the sights and kilometers pile up like pearls in this contrasting city where cleanliness and calm are the golden rules. Not a single piece of paper on the ground, not a shout, not a honk to ruin the vibe! As for the Uzbeks, their English level is about the same as my mom’s! But despite this barrier—what am I saying, this *language wall*—the Uzbeks we imagined as gruff, surly ex-Soviets turn out to be a remarkably kind people, full of genuine smiles. Granted, the second language here is Russian, not English. So thank you, Google Translate, for helping us chat with them!

Day 2 (continued)

And what better place for that than a market? We indeed arrive at the great Chorsu covered market, known as much for its size as for the architecture of its building! It's also the perfect spot to taste some local specialties—some of which are *very* unusual. Like *sumalac*, that thick, brownish sauce with an undefined taste that Uzbeks enjoy by the spoonful. Or those little sun-dried goat cheese balls so hard that Uzbeks suck on them like candy. For our part, we’ll remember the *somsas*—small stuffed pastries baked by sticking them to the walls of a circular clay oven. Price-wise, no need to be Greg the millionaire: two somsas and two drinks cost us thirty thousand *sum*, the Uzbek currency. That’s just two euros...













The last stop on today’s itinerary is the massive and impressive Hazrati Imam complex, still under construction. Unfortunately, a downpour forces us to take shelter at Besh Qozon earlier than planned. What’s that, you ask? The whole world envies us for *kouign-amann*, Camembert, *cacasse à cul nu*, and Julienas wine... but we can’t exactly brag about having *plov*, the national dish of Uzbekistan! That said, Flo and I *can* brag about tasting it today—at a true institution: the Besh Qozon restaurant! The recipe is simple: you pour ten liters of oil into a huge pan, toss in rice, carrots, chickpeas, raisins, beef and lamb, quail eggs, and vine leaves, then let it simmer on low heat while flipping the mixture with a shovel! Verdict? Really good! A tad greasy in the mouth, but delicious!



Alright, we’re in the north of the city and need to head south. The itinerary is well-planned because the metro will take us there—and it’s our final visit of the day. Yes, here, the metro is worth visiting because, like in Moscow twenty years ago, some stations are true works of art. And did I mention we’ve already fallen under the spell of the Uzbeks? While we’re struggling to figure out how the Uzbek metro works (described in Cyrillic), we’re taken under the wing of young Azizbek, the embodiment of kindness and goodwill. Even though we’re complete strangers, he pays for our tickets, escorts us to our destination, and shows us the most beautiful stations—even going so far as to ask fellow passengers to give us a seat. Thanks, Azizbek!







So, why are we heading south? Patience, young padawan—it’s another nighttime adventure waiting for us. We’ll tell you more tomorrow...

April 7 - Day 3

This morning, we’ve got faces like we’ve been through the wringer. Where’s that time when I was a student, crashing at friends’ places on the floor and waking up feeling fine? Where is it?... Seriously, where?... It’s definitely gone... Because fourteen hours on an economy-class sleeper train in Uzbekistan leaves its mark! Marks on our old, rusty bodies, for sure. But most of all, memories from the close quarters with the Uzbeks that we’ll never forget.





Fourteen hours on a train, okay—but fourteen hours to *where*? And more importantly, is it worth it? Answer to your first question: Khiva! Answer to the second: Oh, absolutely! Even if we’d had to get here by flying carpet, we would’ve done it! Because Khiva is a city planted in the middle of the desert, sheltered by thick walls. Inside the crenellated ramparts, pedestrian alleys wind between palaces, madrasas, mosques, and caravanserais. That’s what we’re about to explore for the next two days...



As soon as we got off the train, we headed straight on foot toward the old town, barely taking the time to drop our backpacks at our little guesthouse along the way. And just like that, we stepped into the fortified city of Itchan Kala through the northern gate, thinking we were about to explore an old town. But we had no idea we’d actually traveled back in time! Everything’s still there, frozen in the desert... or perfectly restored! Every house, every alley, every detail makes you feel like you’ve been teleported to the era when Khiva was a lifesaving stop for merchants traveling the Silk Road from the far reaches of Asia to Europe. Khiva only took ten minutes to steal our hearts! It’s just so beautiful! I mean, *so* beautiful!





At every street corner, we didn’t know which way to go—every direction offered such tempting views. This way, the silhouette of a madrasa dressed in bricks and blue tiles. That way, the shadow of an impressive minaret reaching toward the azure sky. We wandered like that all afternoon, with no real goal, just soaking in the atmosphere. Speaking of atmosphere, it’s so peaceful here. We’re far from the hustle and bustle of North African souks. It’s like no one even knows this ancient city exists. During the hottest hours of the afternoon, we were almost alone, and the few merchants who’d set up their beautiful shops in old adobe houses didn’t even try to push their crafts on us—they just greeted us with big smiles!

Day 3 (continued)



I don’t know if this description has convinced you of Khiva’s beauty and appeal, but since a few photos are worth a thousand words, I’ll save my keyboard and let our snapshots do the talking. That said, we’ve got a sunset to admire from the restaurant terrace where we’ve settled in for the evening!

April 8 - Day 4

Khiva, right?... So, who’s up for visiting Khiva today? That’d be us! Because we’re still hungry—for more, that is. And let me tell you, we’re not vegetarians! Yesterday, we soaked in Khiva on the warm desert breeze. Today, we packed our sparkles to make the day shine! Well, not really. Actually, we blew our budget to get a pass that unlocks sixteen sites in this open-air museum, a UNESCO World Heritage site! Money, money, money! I love Abba, but come on...



So, in Khiva, you don’t need to rack your brain over the itinerary: either you go all out and buy that pricey pass, or you settle for the exteriors while melting in the Uzbek heat.





Don’t worry, I’ll spare you the names of every site and their detailed descriptions, even though I’ve heard you’re developing a real passion for the ancient Khorezm kingdom... Like perfect little tourists, we hop from one Quranic school (madrasa) to a museum. From a mausoleum to a palace. From the top of a minaret to an old underground pantry. If you ever feel like walking in our footsteps, know that I highly recommend the Juma Mosque with its forest of 212 carved pillars, the Kalta Minor minaret, and the Tash-Hauli Palace. My personal sweet spot? The Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum and its massive emerald-green dome! Since it’s a pilgrimage site for Uzbeks, they enter in traditional attire, sit around the main hall, and soak in the powerful chanting sermon of the imam echoing through the high dome, adorned with stunning blue ceramics. Gives you chills down your spine...

Day 4 (continued)









Between each visit, we still can’t get enough of walking and re-walking our soles thin on the cobblestones of this city with its perfect architectural harmony. We’ve practically memorized every alley, every nook, every ice cream vendor, and every mausoleum—down to the tips of our toes! Speaking of which, in one of them, we stumble upon three Uzbek grandmas on a spiritual outing! A sweet little moment spent with them... well, trying to communicate. Oops, I mean *pretending* to communicate!









And it’s only late afternoon when we finally turn our backs on the old town to mix things up by heading to the bazaar. Epic fail! Nothing left but spoiled fruit and street sweepers by the time we arrive. How about a quick detour to the new part of the city? Another fail—move along, nothing to see here! The travel gods have clearly already been generous enough today, so it’s time to raise the white flag and settle onto the terrace of a restaurant, Uzbek beers in hand, waiting for the sun to follow our lead...

Hi Franck, It’s starting off with a bang. I’m excited to dive back into this beautiful country by following your perpetual travels. See you!

Hi Franck, It's off to a flying start. I’m excited to dive back into this beautiful country by following your perenigrations. See you!

Hello Jean-Pascal! Uzbekistan doesn’t seem to attract many VFers, but it’s definitely worth considering for a future adventure! Thanks for joining us! Cheers, Franck

Well, I'm interested... so much so that I just booked our tickets for a little getaway there 😉 I'm loving your travel journals and I'll be following this one with even more interest. Françoise

Well, I'm interested... so much so that I just booked our tickets for a little trip there ;) I'm loving your travel journals and I'll be following this one with even more interest. Françoise

You're going to love it! Uzbekistan, that is—not my journals (though I hope a little bit...) ;P

Hi Franck,

You really are spoiling us. Three travel journals at once—we don’t know where to look first! I’d started a trip to Uzbekistan two years ago for three weeks, but because of a family bereavement, we had to rush back home after just six days. We barely had time to visit Tashkent, Nukus, the desert fortresses, and Khiva. The latter left us with the same impression as it did you. Unfortunately, we didn’t get to see Bukhara, Samarkand, or the Fergana Valley. I’ve no doubt your story will make my regrets even worse with what’s to come.

I loved a Vasyvite travel journal about Uzbekistan back in 2012—it was such a pleasant read and so well illustrated! I followed their example and also hired a French-speaking guide and a driver. It was a luxury I’d never experienced before (and haven’t since!), and it cost less than a group tour with an agency like Nouvelles Frontières at the time.

The architecture is a photographer’s dream, the cuisine is excellent (even in local homes), and the people are happy to be photographed. The guides were French professors at the university, passing the role down through generations—so cultured... pure bliss! My son and daughter-in-law, both in their thirties at the time, chose the same team for their 2018 trip. Since they were the same age as the guides, they got invited to a wedding, learned Uzbek (or maybe Tajik!) card games, and even picked up some songs. They still rave about the trip—not just for the stunning architecture, but for the incredible human connections.

Oh, and I almost forgot the beautiful handicrafts: carved wood, textiles, carpets, pottery, miniatures—often sold in former mosques and madrasas by artists recognized by the government... with no commission for the guides.

There are actually a lot of French tourists in Uzbekistan, even if it doesn’t come up much on this forum. Many of us, like me, just don’t have the energy to write a travel journal.

Thanks for bringing this destination back into the spotlight—this one looks like it’ll be fascinating!

Fascinating—I’m not sure, but this country really captivated us! I can imagine how much it’s changed over the last 20 years, and how even more "off the beaten path" it must have been back then. Either way, the people are incredibly welcoming, and we’ll be sharing more in the coming days. Thanks for your message!

Hi Franck,

You really spoil us. 3 travel journals at once—we don’t know where to start! I’d started a trip to Uzbekistan two years ago for three weeks, but due to a family bereavement, we had to rush back home after just six days. We barely had time to visit Tashkent, Nukus, the desert fortresses, and Khiva. The latter left us with the same impression as it did you. Unfortunately, we didn’t get to see Bukhara, Samarkand, or the Fergana Valley. I’ve no doubt your story will deepen my regrets with what comes next.

I’ve got a bit more time these days, so I’m taking the chance to catch up (and I’ve got a lot to catch up on!). I hope this travel journal will inspire you to pick up your trip right where you left off! Franck

April 9 - Day 5

Welcome to a new country! Well, a new country only if one day it gains independence from Uzbekistan, as most of its inhabitants would wish! This place... or should I say, this region, is Karakalpakstan! No, that name isn’t straight out of a Tintin comic! Yes, Karakalpakstan really does exist! Cross my heart, hope to die—if I’m lying, I’ll end up in the gulag!

Anyway, how do you get to Karakalpakstan? And more importantly, do you go just for a passport stamp that doesn’t even exist? To get there, forget camel caravans, buses, or trains. Either you go through an agency, bring your scooter in your bag, or—like us—you negotiate in Khiva with a local Uzbek guy who has a car and some free time. For us, it was Faruk, the husband of our guesthouse manager in Khiva, who did the job for the equivalent of 32 €.

As for why you’d want to go, you should know that 80% of Uzbekistan is covered in desert. So, we couldn’t really come here without dedicating at least a day to it. And the Kyzylkum Desert—its little nickname—isn’t just endless dunes and horizons; it’s also the guardian of historical treasures, witnesses to a thriving ancient past. These treasures, straight from antiquity, are the ruins of fortresses saved from erosion by the sand that buried them until their discovery in 1938. They tell the story of civilizations that flourished in these isolated lands, connecting the great trade routes of the East and West.



The castles date back to the 6th century and were built from rammed earth—that is, earth mixed with straw, kind of like the kasbahs we visited in Morocco two years ago. So, you can imagine that 1,500 years after they were built, these fortresses have taken a bit of a beating! The ones we picked are Kyzyl Qala, Topraq-Kala, and the best-preserved of the three, Ayaz Kala. Let’s be honest, you need a vivid imagination to picture this place centuries ago! The trip is ultimately as much about the desert environment as it is about the pseudo-fortresses. Or what’s left of them...

Day 5 (continued)

Alright, let’s hit rewind on this journey—road trip back! For our lunch break, our driver drops us off by Lake Akchakul at a restaurant that seems to tick every tourist-trap box. And yet... we give in and try Uzbek shashlik for the first time—those big, marinated skewers grilled to perfection. And wow, my taste buds just had a baby with a rainbow! Seriously, it was that good. All this with Uzbek music playing and surrounded by local families. Plus, a few Uzbek women, clearly riding the shashlik high, start dancing and pull Flo into their groove. Another amazing moment of connection!



This day’s story *could* have ended with us catching a train from Urgench, a comfy ride, and a smooth arrival in Bukhara to spend a relaxed evening and a cozy night at our pre-booked guesthouse. Happily ever after, right? Well, *should* have. Except a grain of sand from the Kyzylkum Desert decided to crash the party on the tracks. When your train stops for no reason in the middle of nowhere and you see the conductor walking past your window with a wrench in hand... yeah, you *know* it’s about to get messy. One hour of waiting, no announcements, and—of course—no signal. Two hours in, night starts falling, and vultures circle our carriage... Three hours later, check-in at our hotel has closed, we’ve got nothing to eat, it’s 45°C in the carriage, and Flo’s melting (lost three kilos already—no joke!). What would Montaigne say in this situation? Oh, he’d agree: we’re in deep trouble. For me, there’s a saying I love in moments like this: *Life will put stones in your path. It’s up to you whether you build a wall or a bridge.*

And our bridge? Using this unexpected downtime to chat and laugh with four charming Uzbek teacher sisters who invite us to share their meal! Top-notch. Big thanks to offline Google Translate! And, uh, thanks to the Uzbek “SNCF” for this inexplicable 3.5-hour stop—still unexplained, but hey, that wasn’t the point, was it?

Well, there you go! I thought I’d clicked "follow this thread," but turns out I didn’t. So, I was just chilling in the first taxi, waiting to finish my Namibian travel journal while you’d already covered a bunch of miles 😮. Caught up now—I’m keeping pace! 😎

Side question: Nobody seems to rent cars in this country (like, for exploring around one of the cities for a few days, since I think the train is probably better between tourist cities). Is it not possible?