Getting Away to Ireland

Hello and welcome aboard this new travel journal! We’re heading off to Ireland together—a country I’ve wanted to explore for a very long time.



The moment has finally arrived. We’ll be traveling as a family—my wife, my husband, and our 7-year-old daughter.

Here’s our itinerary:

24/07: Flight from Marseille to Dublin, overnight in Dublin 25/07: Dublin, overnight in Dublin 26/07: Dublin, overnight in Dublin 27/07: Pick up rental car, drive to Dingle, overnight near Tralee on the peninsula 28/07: Visit the Ring of Kerry 29/07: Adare, Bunratty Castle, Galway, overnight in Outheragh, near Galway 30/07: Cliffs of Moher, overnight in Outheragh 31/07: Connemara, overnight in Outheragh 01/08: Drive to Sligo via Westport and Downpatrick Head, overnight in Sligo 02/08: Slieve League, Silver Strand Beach, Glencolmcille, overnight in Sligo 03/08: Drive to Derry via Glenveagh National Park, overnight in Derry 04/08: Giant’s Causeway, Dunluce Castle, Portrush, Derry, overnight in Derry 05/08: Drive to Belfast, visit Belfast, overnight in Lisburn (Belfast suburbs) 06/08: Game of Thrones filming locations: Dark Hedges, Carrick-a-Rede, Ballintoy, etc., overnight in Lisburn 07/08: Drive to the Wicklow Mountains, visit Wicklow Mountains National Park, overnight in Blessington 08/08: Drive back to Dublin and return to Marseille.

Cost breakdown:

Flights:

Outbound flights with KLM via Amsterdam for 3: 175 € + 40,000 Flying Blue miles (so essentially a free ticket) Return flight with Aer Lingus for 3: 489 €



Rental car:

10 days booked with Enterprise via Carigami: 443 € including zero-excess insurance.



Accommodation:

Dublin: 3 nights at Maldron Hotel New Cross: 394 € Tralee: 2 nights in a caravan (Ocean Trail Oasis): 292 € Outheragh: 3 nights Airbnb, family room with private bathroom: 430 € Sligo: 2 nights at Clayton Hotel: 456 € Derry: 2 nights at Belfray Inn: 255 € Lisburn: 2 nights at Temple Golf Club: 232 € Blessington: 1 night at Baltyboys Lodges B&B: 158 €



That brings our total to 3,325 € for three.

On the ground, visits, fuel, and food cost around 2,500 €. So this was quite an expensive trip. A few price examples: 1 liter of unleaded fuel: 1.89 € 3-day pass in Dublin: 18 € 1 scoop of ice cream: 5 to 6.5 € Castle visit: 15 € per person A coffee: 3-4 € A glass of wine at a restaurant: 8-10 € A half-pint of Guinness: 7-12 €



Now, here’s the day-by-day account of our adventure in Ireland:

Day 1: Friday, 24/07/2026

Weather: clouds, sunshine, 25°C

Our Marseille-Dublin flight via Amsterdam takes off at 6:30 AM. So, we decided to spend the night at the Ibis Budget hotel in Marignane—it’s not bad.



The flights go smoothly despite the short one-hour layover in Amsterdam. We arrive in Dublin around 10:30 AM. We take a taxi to the Maldron Hotel in New Cross (50 €), and we’re pleasantly surprised to get our room right away. The hotel is a bit out of the way, but a direct bus line (13) takes you to the city center in 45 minutes. It was the trade-off for paying much less. We take the bus (payable in coins only on the bus—no change given) and arrive in Temple Bar for lunch.





The area is really lively. Afterward, we go buy our transport passes at the post office (36 € for 2 adults—kids are free). It’s too bad we couldn’t buy these passes on the bus. We visit the area around the O’Connell Monument, a key site of the 1916 uprising.



Then we walk to Trinity College and St. Stephen’s Green, where we relax under glorious sunshine.





Passing by the Gaiety Theatre, we notice that Riverdance is performing every day. So, we buy tickets for the next day at 2:00 PM (it’s going to rain, which works out well). It costs us 112 € for three.



Later, the afternoon wraps up with a pint of Guinness in a pub and a stop by St. Patrick’s Cathedral, which is closed at this hour. Dinner will be a picnic in the hotel room, thanks to the Aldi just 100 meters away. We also stock up on breakfast supplies.

Day 2: Saturday, July 25: Weather: overcast, rain, sunny spells, 18 degrees After our great little breakfast in the room, we catch bus number 13 heading to Trinity College.

There are no tickets available to visit the library before 12:00, so we’ll have to wait.

We buy them and head to St. Patrick’s Cathedral, which we visit. It’s packed and not very pleasant.



Next, we visit Marsh’s Library while the drizzle keeps falling. It’s a really fun visit with kids since they’ve hidden Lego figures to find. Plus, there aren’t many people there.



Around 12:00, we head to Trinity College Library, which is swarming with people. The exhibit on the Book of Kells is a bit of a squeeze with so little space, but it’s interesting.





We’re hungry and have the pleasure of tucking into some really good fish and chips at a lovely restaurant.





Then we head to the Gaiety for the show, which was fantastic.



Afterward, we grab an afternoon snack and head back to the hotel.

Day 3: Sunday, July 26: Weather: overcast, rain, sunny spells, 18 degrees. I booked the visit to Dublinia online, and we arrived 45 minutes before opening. So we had time to check out the murals in Temple Bar, just nearby. They’re in a deserted, grimy alley behind the bars, which are also empty at this hour.





The Dublinia museum is fascinating. It covers Dublin’s Viking and medieval history.





After the visit, which took a good two hours, we grabbed a sandwich on Parliament Street, where there were free activities for kids (face painting, games, etc.). At 2:00 PM, I’d booked a tour of the Jeanie Johnston, a ship that carried Irish migrants fleeing the famine to the New World. This visit turned out to be absolutely fascinating.





We then headed to the Archaeology Museum (free entry) to take shelter from the showers. The exhibits were stunning.





Finally, the day ended at Inveagh Garden, with its beautiful waterfall.



It was time to head back to the hotel and pack our bags. Tomorrow, we’re picking up our car at the airport.

Day 4: Monday, July 27: Weather: Mist and fog: 15°C A taxi drops us off at the airport (50 €) straight to Enterprise, where we pick up our Nissan Juke. We then cover the 320 km to Dingle with a quick stop for a sandwich and salad in a village. I’d planned to visit the Ring of Kerry today, but given the timing, it’s pushed to tomorrow. Instead, we head for the Dingle Peninsula. The weather is very misty this afternoon. We arrive at Inch Beach, shrouded in fog. It’s freezing with the wind. Hard to believe we’re sweltering on the beaches back home!



Then Dingle welcomes us. The village is gorgeous and has a strange charm with this mist.



We debate whether to continue on the coastal road. Given the weather, we might not see much. Oh well, let’s go for it.



We make our first stop at a prehistoric farm, then the viewpoints keep coming, each more stunning than the last.



The highlight is Coumeenoole Beach, followed by Dunquin Pier.







Our caravan for the night is on a headland north of the Dingle Peninsula. We get there via the Conor Pass, swallowed by clouds. What a strange road.



The evening goes well. We can finally cook ourselves a hot meal.

Day 5: Tuesday, July 28: Weather: Cloudy, Sunny, 20°C We set off for the Ring of Kerry, a 1.5-hour drive, and arrive at Ross Castle.



We take a walk on Ross Island just across the way—it’s really peaceful, and we have the place to ourselves.



For our picnic, we decide to head to Torc Waterfall. We’re lucky—a parking spot opens up just as we arrive.



The walk is gorgeous and reminds me of Grena Park in the Azores because of the vegetation. We find a secluded spot for a really nice picnic.

After that, we pack up and walk to the Old Weir Bridge in Killarney National Park. Once again, the hike lives up to expectations.





Next up are the viewpoints along the Ring of Kerry, including Ladies’ View Point.



All the way south, we stop at Derrynane Beach—absolutely stunning. The water’s warm (19–20°C) and turquoise, perfect for a swim, especially since the sun’s back out.



On the way back, we make plenty of stops to take in the viewpoints. We swing by the Lidl in Tralee for supplies—tonight’s a feast in the caravan!

Day 6: Wednesday, July 29: Weather: overcast, rain, sunshine, 20 degrees We’re heading north toward Galway. We wanted to visit the Cliffs of Moher along the way since the weather’s uncertain and the detour’s a bit long, so we decide to check them out later. Our first stop is the village of Adare. It’s really charming with its thatched-roof houses and ruined abbeys. We spend the whole morning wandering around.











Next, we head to Bunratty Castle, which I booked online. After a picnic, we start exploring this amazing park. Besides the castle, there’s a folk village with 19th-century furnished houses. The tour is fascinating, and the castle itself doesn’t disappoint.







Around 5 PM, we set off for Galway. The Cliffs of Moher will have to wait until tomorrow—it’s too late now. We arrive in Galway around 6 PM, find parking pretty easily, and explore the lively center since there’s a folk festival today. We grab some excellent fish and chips at McDonagh’s. It’s a real celebration—crowds everywhere and lots of street performers. These few hours here are fantastic, especially with the sun shining.





We arrive in Oughterard, just 40 minutes from Galway, around 9 PM for a good night’s sleep.

Day 7: Thursday, July 30: Sunshine: 20 degrees The weather forecast promises beautiful sunshine, perfect for visiting the Cliffs of Moher. They're a 2-hour drive away, so we leave at 7:00 AM to make the most of it and get a good spot in the parking lot. Along the way, we pass by Dunguaire Castle.



Here we are, parked: the price is astronomical. It costs me 30 € for 3 people. There aren't too many people yet, and the view is breathtaking. We're taking it all in. The only slight downside is that the sun is on the other side, but we're not going to complain about having sunshine!



However, the trails to the south and north are closed for construction. We can't go any further.



Before leaving, we check out the visitor’s center, which is included in the price. Then we head to Doolin. We grab a pizza at a restaurant and start the hike toward the cliffs (8-10 km round trip). Parking in Doolin is a bit tricky, but we found a great spot along the road leading to the harbor.







The trail to the cliffs runs along the sea. There aren’t many people around. In less than an hour, we’re there. We end up at the other end of the closed path—almost alone, it’s paradise.





On the way back, we decide to follow the sunny coast, passing through the Burren and the Black Head Lighthouse. This desert-like landscape is incredible.



We stop at Orangemore for supplies, then head back to Outheragh.

Ah, this brings back memories! Gorgeous photos, but it’s such a shame the country has become so expensive these days!

Day 8: Friday, July 31: Weather: sunny, gray with showers, sunny spells: 17°C Today, it’s Connemara—we’re doing a loop and starting with Pine Island, which is getting a nice shower… We wait patiently for the sun to come back, and sure enough, it does 15 minutes later.





We tour this well-known little island and treat ourselves to some fresh cookies left by a lady in an “Honesty Box.” After Clifden, we drive the Sky Loop, the pretty coastal road, then head to Kylemore Abbey.



It’s also a very popular spot for tourists, packed with crowds. There are tons of French people (thanks, Sardou).



The visit is stunning—the interior is worth the detour, and the gardens are gorgeous. A nice shower frees up the only two picnic tables just before we decide to sit there. We finish the visit with the gardens. A free shuttle takes us there.





After the abbey, we head to Connemara National Park. It’s 4 p.m., and there aren’t many people left. Everyone’s heading back down, but we decide to hike to the top of Lower Diamond, the 10 km loop. Our daughter’s got strong legs. We’re all alone—it’s amazing. The hike takes us 3 hours.



We head back to Oughterard, driving through some breathtaking landscapes.

Oh, that brings back memories! Gorgeous photos, but such a shame the country’s become so expensive now!

Should’ve gone sooner! It really has gotten pricey 😉

Day 9: Saturday, August 1st Weather: clouds, sunshine: 21 degrees We leave the lovely family who hosted us and head north. We’d planned to visit the Irish Museum in Castlebar, but the weather’s so nice it’d be a shame to stay indoors. So we’re off to Sligo via Westport and Downpatrick Head. It adds a bit of time to the drive, but that’s okay. To get to Westport, we pass by Aasleagh Falls and then the Killary Fjord (the only one in Ireland). The views are stunning.







In Westport, we park in a downtown lot and find a great restaurant to celebrate my birthday. Then we keep exploring this charming town—one of the nicest in Ireland.







Next, we head to Downpatrick Head and its breathtaking cliffs. Unlike the Cliffs of Moher, there are no safety barriers here—it gave us a few chills! The drop is sheer.





We arrive in Sligo around 7:00 PM at the Clayton Hotel, set in a beautiful building. There’s an indoor pool, and our daughter’s thrilled.



We treat ourselves to another restaurant to celebrate my birthday again. ^^

Day 10: Sunday, August 2 Weather: cloudy, 15 degrees The weather is like something out of November, but that doesn’t discourage us from visiting Slieve League, which ranks among Ireland’s most impressive cliffs. They plunge 600 meters into the Atlantic.



We park at the lot for 10 € for 2 hours and start the short 2 km uphill hike to the cliffs. The site is busy, and there are food trucks for lunch. We treat ourselves to a lobster sandwich (delicious) enjoyed at a picnic table overlooking the cliffs.



However, we don’t linger because the area is swarming with tiny midges. After eating, we continue along the path that just keeps climbing, but seeing the time and realizing we only have 45 minutes to get back to the car, we decide to head down. By 1:00 PM, we’re back at the vehicle, which now takes us to Silver Beach, one of the country’s most beautiful.



Finally, this day of sightseeing wraps up at the folk village of Glencolmcille, not far from the beach.









We head back to the hotel early to enjoy the pool, which closes at 7:00 PM for the kids.

Day 11: Monday, August 3: Weather: rain, overcast: 16 degrees The weather isn’t great when we leave Sligo. It’s pouring, but that doesn’t stop us from visiting Glencar Waterfall.



We then drive to Glenveagh National Park, which takes about 2 hours.



It’s 11 a.m., we grab a soup and a burger at the visitor’s center, then head out for a walk to see the beautiful castle. The site is stunning, bordering a lake with calm, dark waters.



The castle visit is worth it, and afterward, we explore the trails along the lake and the exotic gardens. There are a few people around, but it’s still manageable.











At the end of the day, we head to Derry. We’re entering Northern Ireland (Ulster).

Day 12: Tuesday, August 4: Weather: overcast, rain, sun, 17 degrees Today, a dream is coming true: walking on the Giant’s Causeway. No way we’re paying 45 € to park and visit the site, so we opt for Salmon Rock Parking, a bit farther away and free, which connects to the site via a lovely coastal trail (45-minute walk). We get up at 5:30 AM, leave at 6:30 AM, and arrive at the parking lot around 7:30 AM. We’re on the site by 8:30 AM after getting a little lost. The visitor center is already open, but there’s no one there. We reach the Giant’s Causeway just as the 10 people who were already there are leaving. We have the place to ourselves for nearly 40 minutes. It’s magical. When we decide to leave, the crowds with audio guides start pouring in.





We then follow the trail along the top of the cliff to the amphitheater. It’s so beautiful!



On the way back, we get caught in a good downpour that soaks us. But the sun comes back, and we can have a picnic on a bench facing the sea at Salmon Rock Beach parking lot.





We then head to Dunluce Castle, which is packed. But when a shower hits, everyone scatters, and we end up almost alone as the sun returns. And it’s a beautiful sun, making the coastal landscape and this legendary castle even more stunning.



Actually, I realize the rain is just there to scare off the crowds so we can have the place to ourselves… We then head to Portrush, a seaside town, for a little walk along the cliffs, before deciding to go to Derry.



Visiting Derry feels a bit special. The city seems sad to me. There aren’t many people around, lots of buildings in the center are abandoned, and many shops are closed. You can feel the tragic past of Northern Ireland here. It’s heavy. After walking the walls, we find ourselves in Free Derry, with its murals and the Bloody Sunday monument.







With a heavy heart, we head to the Belfray Inn, away from the city. Tomorrow, we’ll dive back into history.

Day 13: Wednesday, August 5: Weather: Rain, sunny spells, wind: 14°C Today’s weather was more like November, so we decided to skip the Antrim Coast and head to the Titanic Museum in Belfast instead, which we’d originally planned for the day after. We booked our tickets online for the 12:30 tour, giving us time to drive (1h45) and explore Belfast a bit beforehand. In the end, we arrived around 11:00 because the road was under construction and we had to take a bunch of detours. That left us time to visit the SS Nomadic, which ferried passengers from the port of Cherbourg to the big ocean liners (including the Titanic) that couldn’t dock.



We stepped right into 1912—the decor of this luxury shuttle was recreated exactly as it was back then.



At 12:00, we headed to the museum. Unfortunately, the visit was exhausting because of the crowds. There were *way* too many people (what were we thinking, traveling in August? If only we’d had a choice…).



The exhibit covers the economic stakes of the era, the mass migration of Irish people to the New World, and the construction of these sea giants.





Then, we ventured into the bowels of the Titanic before reliving the night of the disaster.



The experience ends with the discovery of the wreck. I’m a huge fan of this legendary ship, but I didn’t really enjoy this museum. It’s just my personal opinion—I couldn’t fully get into it, maybe because of the crowds? We’d visited a Titanic exhibit in Lyon back in April that we loved. It focused more on the ship itself and the night of the accident rather than the context of its creation. We left with a bittersweet feeling and headed to the city of festivities. Belfast was in full celebration mode (music festival), and the city center was pedestrianized. There were bands playing everywhere, and despite the rain and wind, the vibe was amazing! We loved this afternoon!









We left in the late afternoon to head to Lisburn, where our fantastic accommodation, Temple Golf Course, is located—it even has a great restaurant.

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Day 14: Thursday, August 6: Weather: Overcast, rain, showers, sunshine The weather was better than the day before, so we could go see the Antrim coast and the Game of Thrones filming locations. We started with the Dark Hedges beech tree avenue, which was really busy. We parked in the only car park, which cost 5 €, and went to see this stunning site. We thought we’d only stop for a few minutes, but the walk ended up taking over an hour, and we didn’t anticipate the shower that caught us. Never leave your rain jacket in the car…



But every cloud has a silver lining—once again, the site emptied out for a few minutes, and the sun came back. Next, we headed to Carrick-a-Rede and its famous rope bridge. I’d booked the visit in advance online for 40 € at 12:30.



This turned out to be the most disappointing visit of the trip. While the site itself is pretty, it’s not much more impressive than others, and the crowds ruined the experience. Out of the two hours we spent there, 30 minutes were spent queuing in each direction—so an hour total. Paying 40 € just to cross a bridge feels a bit steep. If I had to do it again, I wouldn’t—especially since the walk without the bridge is free, and the little island isn’t anything special. If you do go, it’s better to visit early in the morning or late in the evening.





We then left for a picnic in Ballintoy. We got lucky with parking again—a car was leaving just as we arrived. Phew, it was the only spot. The sun was out, the weather was pleasant, and the beach picnic was wonderful. The village, which served as the filming location for the "Iron Islands" in Game of Thrones, is really cute. And they had great banofees.







Well-fed, we continued east to Fair Head, where we went for a hike. The cliffs were impressive, plunging straight into the ocean.





On the way back, we missed the trail and cut through the fields. We ended up wading through waist-high grass, climbing over barbed-wire fences, and trudging through marshes before reaching the wrong parking lot. Twenty minutes later, we finally made it back to the car, a bit annoyed at the wasted time. Thankfully, no sheep attacked us, and no farmer scolded us. The next stop was Murlough Bay, another Game of Thrones location. I let out a big "wow" when I saw the view—this wild, breathtaking site. It’s a small cove at the end of a path, with hardly anyone around. So peaceful. A real slice of paradise, far from the world and far from time.



It was time to head back. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to visit Glenariff Forest Park, which had already closed. We treated ourselves to dinner in Lisburn before returning to Temple Golf Course.

Day 15: Friday, August 7: Weather: sunny, 22 degrees It’s our last day and the weather is gorgeous. We leave Northern Ireland for the Wicklow Mountains, a 2.5-hour drive. We arrive around 11:00 AM. The parking costs us 4 €, and we make sure not to go through the paid visitor’s center. We’re in Glendalough, known for its major religious site and its two lakes. A great day of hiking awaits us.



We grab some sandwiches, and off we go. The religious site is packed, but as we move toward the Lower Lake, there are fewer people. The tourist groups seem to stick to the religious site.



By the Upper Lake, we settle on the grass and devour our sandwiches.



We then start the short 3 km loop hike to see the waterfall, but it’s tiny. Still, it makes for a lovely walk in the forest. After that, we decide to stroll along the lake through the Scots pine forest. Eventually, we opt for the big 10 km loop that circles the heights. The climb is pretty tough, but the many little fawns lift our little hiker’s spirits—she’s loving it.







From up high, the view is stunning. We head back down via the tiny waterfall from earlier and treat ourselves to an ice cream and an Irish Coffee before returning to the car.





We check into our accommodation in Blessington—a gorgeous house. The host recommends a restaurant for our last night, the Ballymore Inn. There’s even entertainment for kids and a live music group. We end on a high note!

Day 16: Saturday, August 8 Weather: sunny, 15 degrees, then 44°C If we overlook the drunk woman in the Airbnb hallway who moaned all night and whom we only heard and helped back to her room at 6 a.m., the night went well. The fantastic breakfast lets us hit the road to Dublin Airport calmly—just a 50-minute drive. The car was returned on time without a hitch, and the Aer Lingus flight went smoothly.



We’re back. Welcome to Marseille—it’s 3:55 p.m., and the temperature is 44°C!!



Conclusion This trip exceeded our expectations. We loved the landscapes, the history, the people, the legends, and the cool temperatures. Ireland is a country that really grows on you, and now we understand why. Talking about it brings back so many emotions—we don’t know why this country touched us so deeply, but it has something special. Maybe it’s because it’s a land of legends, movie and TV show locations that we loved. When we think of Ireland, we think of The Cranberries, U2, and a whole part of our lives, really. That’s probably why it hit us right in the heart.



Highlights of the destination: A welcoming and respectful people An incredible atmosphere in the cities A rich and moving history Lush and spectacular landscapes Romantic monuments An easy and well-organized country A safe country Good roads in good condition (though narrow) A certain mystery





Downsides of the destination: A fairly expensive country (especially for accommodation) Some sites affected by mass tourism Unpredictable weather (but that’s part of the charm) The local cuisine