Off to explore Lithuania!

December 13 - Day 1

"How about a Christmas market this year, huh? A little romantic weekend getaway... - Yes! That’d be cool! Strasbourg? Colmar? - Feels a bit déjà vu, doesn’t it? Plus, slim chance of snow there... And I’d love something a bit more exotic with a touch of originality..."

"Okay, Google, give me the list of the five most beautiful Christmas markets in Europe. - In fifth place, the Christmas market in Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania. - Save your breath! Lithuania, here we come!"



We wanted cold, and cold is exactly what we got the moment we set foot in this new, unknown land. As for landscapes, forests and lakes stretch as far as the eye can see across this vast plain, its vegetation scorched by the frost of a winter that’s clearly already well underway here.



Lakes, in fact, set the scene for our first visit to Trakai Castle, whose brick-red towers and walls rise proudly against the azure sky of our first day. Lakes, because this castle was built on an island and is only accessible on foot via a series of walkways spanning half-frozen lake offshoots. I couldn’t have picked a better spot to build my castle! Translation: We’re totally sold! Proof is we spend two hours hiking around the area, alternating between forests, reeds, and cozy houses tastefully decorated for Christmas.

Day 1 (continued)

Christmas, after all. Wasn’t that the whole reason we picked this destination?... So off we went to Vilnius, the capital of this small Baltic country, where the Christmas market is supposedly the real deal. And yes, it’s gorgeous! The Christmas tree is stunning, and the shops are beautifully decorated. But size-wise, it’s just like the city—human-scale. We wrapped it up pretty quickly. And it’s not like the seven-euro mulled wine was going to keep us there longer. Or the minus ten degrees outside! So we postponed our little ice-skating session and took refuge in what the grapevine calls the best Lithuanian gourmet restaurant: L’Impérial.

















As good epicurean French folks, our taste buds won’t remember this place for long. But our bodies will thank us for the nice hot bath we took back at the hotel. Because this time, no wild camping or makeshift bed in the back of the car! It’s freezing out there!!!

December 14 - Day 2

Ten must-see spots in Lithuania. The third one might send shivers down your spine! That’s the kind of clickbait title you’d see on Facebook to get you to click a link. That’s the intro I’m going with to get you to read about our day... except our main visit today might *actually* give you chills!

Kryziu Kalnas. That’s the nickname for this spot in northern Lithuania we’re heading to this morning after a two-and-a-half-hour drive through monotonous roads. We’re in the middle of nowhere, and stopping here could feel like something out of *The Hills Have Eyes*. But if you took Lithuanian as your third language, you know Kryziu Kalnas means the Hill of Crosses! On this hill, you’ll find hundreds of thousands of metal, stone, and wooden crosses of all sizes, planted there with no obvious reason. Legend says a miracle happened here in the 14th century, and the first crosses mysteriously sprouted up. The former USSR leaders didn’t look kindly on this religious devotion and had the place razed. But new crosses quickly reappeared—another miracle or a sign of Lithuanian resistance under Russian oppression...











All this to say, the place is now a pilgrimage site where even Pope John Paul II himself came to pay his respects. It’s a haunting yet mystical mix, set against the stark and icy Lithuanian countryside. I’ve got to admit, I feel oddly calm and almost spellbound wandering through this giant "ecclesiastical flea market." An experience that’s instantly made it into my top ten most unusual places I’ve ever visited... and the third one was in Lithuania!

Day 2 (continued)

Two rooms, two vibes! After another hour on the road, we’re now in the country’s second city, Kaunas—don’t mix it up with the lady of the same name... Here, we wandered through the streets to reach the heart of the city at this time of year: the Christmas market and its massive, twinkling tree!







The atmosphere is laid-back, but once again, the cold drives us to take shelter in a little eatery to enjoy some local treats to wrap up this authentically Lithuanian day...

December 15 - Day 3

We’d asked Santa for snow, and he delivered a beautiful white blanket over Vilnius for our wake-up on this third and final Lithuanian day. Perfect timing, since we’re not taking the car today—our plan is an urban trek in capital letters. And Lithuania’s capital is just made for it, with its human scale and mix of wooded hills, frozen rivers, medieval alleys, a small hilltop fortress, and royal squares! Not to mention the churches—one per resident! I’m joking, but there are *loads* of them. Fun fact: masses are packed, with 4K TV broadcasts and Dolby Surround sound!

Day 3 (continued)

A little shout-out for our little detour into a new country—I’m talking about the Republic of Užupis, an artists' district that declared itself independent in 1998! Yep, it’s totally a thing!









One last mulled wine at the Christmas market as the snow falls even harder, a local beer at the covered market, and it’s time to head back to the hotel to snuggle up. For the rest, nothing much to report—just taking the chance to give you a little recap of this long weekend in a less common destination. So, Lithuania? Well, Flo agrees with me: Perfect for a little winter getaway! It’s small, easy to explore without rushing, and super chill. No litter on the ground, everything’s neat, no sketchy folks on the streets (too cold), and zero sense of insecurity, even if there’s a slight wariness toward Russians. Price-wise, unfortunately, it’s pretty close to what we’d find in France, so we’re not heading there to splurge. But all in all, it was awesome! Flo, any final words? Mine’s simple: See you in a month and a half for new adventures—warmer ones, for sure...

I didn’t think I’d already be getting into the Christmas spirit… but yep, here we are! 🎄

I didn't think I could already get into the Christmas spirit... but yes, I am!

We’re allowed— they’ve already put up Halloween decorations in the stores! 😏

Hello, Personally, I prefer Kaunas (the former capital of Lithuania) to Vilnius. Train trips between the two cities are very easy—there are dedicated ticket kiosks to buy your train ticket. I found your quote amusing: "not a hint of insecurity even though there’s a slight sense of distrust toward Russians." When we take a taxi in Lithuania, the staff speak Russian if we address them in Russian. (I don’t know Lithuanian.) I remember an issue that came up recently in Lithuania: a female MP or minister took a taxi, and the driver spoke Russian. The transport company had to explain that the driver was Ukrainian and only spoke Russian. It’s true that safety and cleanliness in this country are exemplary. I’m surprised that restaurant prices are similar to those in France—I thought the opposite. Granted, I haven’t been back in 10 months. Best regards, Patrick

I'm terrified of the cold, Franck, so thanks for showing me a place I wouldn’t go otherwise 😅

I have a phobia of the cold, Franck, so thanks for showing me a place I wouldn’t go otherwise 😅

The deep cold has its charm too... I’m glad I got to discover this little country!

Unlike our bodies, which will thank us for a long time for that nice hot bath we took at our hotel. Because yes, no wild camping or makeshift bed in the back of the car this time! It’s freezing out there!!!

😂😂😂 I’m so glad to see you’re a little "normal" too 😂😂😂

Unlike our bodies, which will thank us for a long time after that nice hot bath at our hotel. Because this time, no wild camping or makeshift bed in the back of the car! It’s freezing out there!!!

😂😂😂 I’m so glad to see you’re a little "normal" too 😂😂😂

😏 😏 😏 Flo gets cold easily—I thought about wild camping in Lithuania at -10°C, but I value my relationship... 😇

Love your feedback on your weekend in Lithuania! 😊

For us, it’ll be around the same time this year, but for 10 days, from December 14th to 24th... We can’t wait. 🤩

Love your recap of a weekend in Lithuania! 😊

We’re heading there at the same time this year but for 10 days, from December 14th to 24th... Can’t wait! 🤩

Have a great trip! Wondering if you’ll have enough to do for 10 days... Unless you’re also visiting my Latvia or Estonia at the same time?

Thanks. We’re spending 10 days split between Vilnius and Kaunas. Our days will be packed, as always. Everything on foot or by public transport—a great way to discover the country with total immersion. We already did Latvia and Estonia two years ago. We loved it!

Thanks! We’re planning 10 days split between Vilnius and Kaunas. Our days will be packed, as usual. Everything on foot or by public transport—a great way to dive into the country. We already did Latvia and Estonia two years ago and loved it!

So, where’s the travel journal? [;]

Too long to share here! But our travel journal, written day by day, is available here.