A little trip to Belgium

Introduction: As has become a habit, I’ve organized a trip for late October—a surprise trip for my poor wife, who follows along without saying much (or almost nothing). She knows she’s going away, when, but not where! Our friends and family keep bombarding me with questions to get the info, but I’m holding strong. The guesses are flying, the best one being, “Knowing him, he’s definitely heading somewhere sunny, even if all the southern destinations have already been done for a short stay.” It makes me laugh because there are still a few places I haven’t discovered yet. So yes, choosing to go to Belgium at the end of October—especially for someone as sensitive to the cold as I am—is bold. I’m not quite at Philippe Abrams’ level, but still, heading *Noooorth* from me is pretty daring. So, contrary to my friends’ predictions, I’m not flying south but taking my car, turning the wheel north, and off we go!

Day 1: The outbound trip When I say I’m not flying, it’s only half true because we’re leaving the day French media—with their signature doom-and-gloom—announce a terrible storm. While Storm Austen is indeed forecasted, the Belgians are reporting it as the first storm of the year with a bit more restraint. The drive won’t be entirely smooth as we reach the Hauts-de-France region: the wind is strong, the rain is heavy, but it’s not the apocalypse. Just drive carefully and slow down—sounds like a road safety message! We left Lyon at 8 AM and arrived in Bruges at 4 PM, “...and that’s even with the trucks at the entrance to Angoulême!” What’s he talking about—going through Angoulême? French cinephiles will get the reference. We got a warm welcome at our B&B, and since it was barely drizzling, we took a quick stroll around town to stretch our legs. Headed to the Markt, visited the Prinsenhof, the Palace of the Dukes of Flanders. We actually went in because it started pouring. It’s free, a first taste of Flemish culture, and it’s great.



A little tired, we headed back to our B&B, mostly because the heavy rain forced us to. We got soaked (some people must be laughing). After drying off, we went to the nearest restaurant, Parazzar, typically Bruges-style, and my wife tried her first beer. Personally, I don’t like beer—*What the heck was I thinking?*—so I had a red wine, a Tinto, which would’ve been local back in Charles V’s time. First fries—because I *love* them—and it’s time to call it a night. A good night’s sleep awaits.

The +: We made it! The -: It’s raining, it’s windy, it’s wet—party at the...

Hi Jean-Pascal

It’s not far from where I live at all… I’m in! 😉

I think Bruges is a really beautiful city with loads of charm… but way too crowded every time I’ve been there (no matter the season) 😕. What’s it like in the rain and wind? 😏

Hi Muriel, my loyal follower! It’s great to have you following along. See you soon!

Day 2: Visiting Bruges After an excellent and hearty breakfast (not frugal like I’d read in a comic), the weather is overcast but not forecast to be rainy—even better, we can feel the sun might just peek out. Bruges is a city best explored on foot, especially since our B&B is really close to the center (20 minutes away). Off to the cathedral, which is imposing and beautifully lit—because, yes, the sun has finally risen. Its treasury is a prime example of all the objects the Christian religion can preserve, packed with gold and precious stones. Next up, the Church of Our Lady. We explore this one more thoroughly than the last, as there are a few artworks worth the detour. We’re pretty blown away by the sarcophagi and the Romanesque frescoes painted inside them, especially knowing how quickly the work was done.



We head out, and the weather’s really nice, so a mini-canal cruise is a must. No waiting to board, and it’s sunny too—perfect. It’s really pleasant; we see the city from a different angle, the commentary is just enough, and the timing is spot-on. After a cone of fries, it’s already 2 PM, and time to step into the Basilica of the Holy Blood, where a small daily ceremony takes place—a priest brings out the vial of the Holy Blood (not 500, mind you) that supposedly contains a few drops of Christ’s blood. I’m not into that kind of thing at all, but my partner is, so it’s fun to watch the little ceremony and see how many people attend. Next, we visit the town hall, a beautiful building with an animated model that explains Bruges’ history, especially its relationship with the sea. The sky clouds over, so we skip climbing the belfry—visibility probably wouldn’t be that great anyway. Off to Minnewater, a park where autumn colors dominate, and then the Beguinage. The visit is shorter than planned because the rain starts to fall, and our legs are begging for a break. Back to the guest room, and luckily so—the rain picks up as we arrive. A little rest, and when the rain stops, we head out again to a restaurant whose name I’ve forgotten (it had a lot of consonants). Not touristy at all, no internet, and a menu in Flemish!!! What to eat? My partner figures out there are beers, but for the meal... On the advice of a kind customer who speaks French and sees our confusion, she helps us order two *varkenswagen* (we’re not so cocky now—I’ll let you guess what that is). We enjoy it, and we go back to our room satisfied with our day.

The plus: The mini-cruise—yes, it’s super touristy, but with the sunshine, it’s totally worth it. The minus: Even under torture, Flemish is hard to understand. 😉

Hi Jean-Pascal,

Thanks for this travel journal! 🙂 I also love Bruges—it’s so charming, but I found that prices had really skyrocketed during our last visit a few years ago. We had to take shelter under a porch, holding our umbrellas vertically because it was pouring 😏 A surprise trip is such a great idea!