Cycling from Douz to Ksar Ghilane (Tunisia)

I just took a trip in Tunisia from Tozeur to Douz, skirting Chott el Jerid to the south. I’m back with the urge to keep going further south via the 4x4 tracks to connect Douz to Ksar Ghilane. Has anyone driven this route recently or explored southern Tunisia? Thanks for your tips! fix

Hey cyclist,

From what I’ve read on various forums, the trail seems doable, especially if you're on a mountain bike.

About the Chott loop you did—was it really worth it in terms of scenery? I’m on the fence about doing it; I’m worried it might be a bit monotonous (even by car, haha).

I’ll be there soon! How about you?

To be continued

Hello Lyon

Sorry about last night if, on top of cycling, you're also into football.... Regarding the loop around Chott el Jerid via the south, it's pretty nice. The first part from Hazoua to Matrouha along the Algerian border is the most monotonous but still exotic. We camped in the middle of nowhere. The rest is much better. First, a stop 17 km after Redjim Maatoug at the "roses des sables" quarry—a tiny campsite that’s burned down twice, but the owner is lovely (sand-baked flatbread, mint tea, night in the only Berber tent, roses des sables as a souvenir), and you pay what you want. In Sabria, we stopped at an old French army fort that was used for filming *Fort Saganne* and now welcomes trekkers. In Douz, we stayed at the only campsite listed in the *Guide du Routard*. The owner is French, and you can grab a beer at the bar. For bikes, there’s no extra fee with Tunisair as long as you stay under 25 kg per person. Don’t hesitate if you want more info. Bye, fx

I made the connection from Douz to Ksar Ghilane via the track last year by motorbike. It was really great. Here’s what I can say: 1) The road is good between Douz and the desert café, except for the first km; 2) It’s a bit rough between the desert café and the start of the dunes: there’s quite a bit of sand on the track, so it might be a bit tough on a bike; 3) The dunes: they start 15 km before Ksar Ghilane and last for 5 to 10 km. On a bike, I think it’s pretty intense because the sand is only firm if you’re going fast enough (at least 20 km/h). 4) After the dunes, it’s an easy track, then a small field of mini-dunes (similar to point 3, but smaller). Anyway, it’s an amazing experience. We left around 4 PM, slept at the desert café, and arrived the next day around 6 PM. Along the way, apart from the desert café, there are two other little roadside stalls in the middle of nowhere—so my advice is: water, water, and more water (but it’s heavy). Cheers, Xav

Hi there, The Tour de Chott El Djerid via the south is fully paved—it’s not a dirt track. Between Douz and Ksar Ghilane, it’s all tarmac. You leave Douz heading toward Matmata, then at the junction with the pipeline, take a right. Ksar Ghilane is signposted. In total, it’s just under 150 km. There *is* a track between the two, but it disappears at times under the sand dunes. Can you even cycle on dunes? Cheers

hey there qqchlimit

Nice to see a biker giving tips to a cyclist. Thanks for the road book. bye fx

Just so you know, there’s at least one other road that’s paved up to 500 m from Ksar Ghilane, and you can cycle it. It’s not the same route, and you won’t run into any dunes except on the horizon, nor any motorbikes using the track.

Hi there,

Why bike? It's better to travel by quad from Tozeur - Douz - Ksar Ghilane.

Soon,

hi, you can do about twelve Ksar Ghilane trips, but take the track, not the dunes because there are two routes, but in the end, you can do it. I did this route by moped—it was great! For more info, feel free to contact me. Thanks

Hello Fix06,

Not sure if this post is still active, but here goes...

There are actually two ways to get from Douz to Ksar Ghilane: the "road" way—paved road from Douz toward Matmata, then after 70-80 km at Bir el Soltane (not 100% sure about the name), take a right onto the long stretch of pavement heading due south toward Ksar Ghilane, which eventually meets up with the "pipeline" track all the way to El Borma.

I don’t think that’s the route you’re interested in... The adventurous way, as my "colleague" described, is via the track that starts south of Douz (past the tourist zone). He explained it really well—it’s doable and often used, but there are a few pretty "hairy" spots.

And that’s the one I think you’ll love! I did the trek with friends over 5 days, taking it easy. Worst case, you’ll just have to push your bike through the sandy patches, but as long as you’ve got enough supplies—especially water—you’ll be fine.

No need for GPS or a satellite phone. If you’ve got a Tunisianna SIM card, you’ll get reception and can make a call if something goes wrong. At the very least, there’s always someone passing by (4x4s, camel herders, etc.).

Seriously, I’m a little in awe that you’re cycling around the chott—respect!

a+

Hi Fix, We’re planning a three-week cycling trip in southern Tunisia with my partner this winter, and I’m really interested in this route that connects Ksar Ghilane to Douz via Jebil National Park (we’d likely do it in this direction). Did you end up taking it? We’re on gravel bikes but fully loaded (camping gear and enough to be self-sufficient). Do you think it’s doable, and how long do you think it would take? I’ve estimated between 90 and 110 km between Ksar Ghilane and Douz. Thanks in advance! Marlène

About the Chott tour you did, is it really worth it for the scenery? I'm hesitating to do it—I'm afraid it might be a bit monotonous (even by car lol).

The Chott is a kind of salt lake, and it's better to go to Douz to see the dunes. So yeah, it's a bit monotonous. But it's up to you. South of Douz, in the dunes, you can find limestone concretions, sand roses, mineralized shrubs... Contrary to what you might think, the desert isn't that empty. Oh, and if you go further south, you can find very deep sinkholes. During my wanderings, I stumbled upon a deep chasm.

and I’d be really interested in this route connecting Ksar Ghilane to Douz via Jebil National Park (we’d likely do it in this direction). Did you end up taking it?

I’d strongly advise checking in with the authorities in Douz—it’s highly recommended—and leaving your itinerary with them (the gendarmerie, maybe?). Because out there, you’re right in the middle of the desert with absolutely nothing for miles around, and if anything goes wrong, no one will be able to help. Plus, even in winter, you’ll need to cover up well against the sun’s glare.

Hi Marlène

Yes, we cycled the Douz to Ksar Ghilane trail, but that was back in 2009. At the time, I had the bike from my profile—a Decath 540 with 2.4 tires, heavily deflated—and I made it through everywhere, just pushing for 3 or 4 short stretches of 100/200 m. The arrival in Douz was on very soft terrain (a good 3/4 hour of struggle). But that was in 2009. Digging through my archives, I found three key waypoints: Café Porte du Désert: N 33 15 41, E 09 14 50 Café Le Tente: N 33 11 59, E 09 09 42 Café Grand Erg: N 33 04 12, E 09 24 52 From what I remember, we slept in the last two cafés on mattresses between the tables. Three days without rushing. We met a few motorcyclists and encountered a strong sandstorm before arriving (bring ski goggles). I have great memories of it—it’s a fun destination for a 3-week trip.