Hi there,
Personally, I’ve already been to French Polynesia (FP) three times (in 2003, 2007, and 2011) and I’m heading back this October (a package trip with e-Tahiti Travel, an agency that’s also very responsive). I’ve visited Tahiti, Moorea, Raiatea, Huahine, Bora Bora, Maupiti, Tikehau, Rangiroa, Fakarava, Mataiva, and even Rurutu (in the Austral Islands). I also did an inter-Marquesas cruise on the Aranui during my 2007 trip.
Below are some tips to help you plan your trip, compiled from various discussions I’ve been part of (back then on the Routard forum):
I organized my first trip in 2003 through small hotels and a few guesthouses via a travel agency (Tourinter). For the second trip (2007), I did a mix of agency bookings and personal reservations at guesthouses. And for the third trip (2011), another mix between a local agency (www.yestahiti.com) and booking a few guesthouses myself (those that didn’t work with the agency).
Contrary to what you might think, I didn’t pay more by going through an agency—I actually saved compared to what I would’ve paid on my own.
I had to pay for all the flights (international + inter-island pass) upfront and only 20% of the accommodation booking. The balance was due one month before arrival.
I got five quotes from local agencies and was able to compare. So, I strongly recommend asking for quotes with a detailed breakdown of the services you want (inter-island flights, type of guesthouses or hotels)...
For the international flight, I recommend flying with Air Tahiti Nui. The advantage is you arrive in the late evening, so you recover better from jet lag than with an Air France flight arriving early in the morning.
My tips for a first trip: you should visit the high islands (Tahiti, Moorea, Raiatea, Huahine, Bora Bora, and Maupiti) as well as one of the Tuamotu atolls (Tikehau, Fakarava, or Rangiroa, especially if you want to go diving).
There’s also another Tuamotu atoll with tons to do: Mataiva (though it’s less frequently serviced). Pure bliss. Very few visitors (only three guesthouses on the island). However, this island isn’t included in the inter-island pass.
Bora Bora is worth spending two days on, if only for the magical arrival over the lagoon.
Maupiti is wilder but has less frequent service.
From Rangiroa, you can also visit a bird island when you take the excursion to the Blue Lagoon.
Personally, I prefer the excursion to the Reef Island for Rangiroa.
About excursions:
On Moorea:
Do the lagoon tour with a meal among rays and sharks.
I did it in 2003 with a company whose name I’ve forgotten. My friends did it in 2007 through the Les Tipaniers hotel with Tip Nautique, I think. They were very happy with it.
ATV ride to Magic Mountain (great views) with ATV Moorea (www.atvmoorea.com)
Evening at Tiki Village
Island tour by car
Go to Painapo Beach for lunch. Some Sundays, they do a Tahitian oven (
http://www.painapo.com)
Join a Tahitian feast (some Sundays at noon at Painapo Beach).
On Huahine:
Do a mixed island tour (land and lagoon) with a picnic on a motu.
In 2003, I used Huahine Nautique and was very satisfied (www.huahine-nautique.com)
Rent a vehicle to tour the island (and the peninsula).
Take the cross-island road and go up to the Belvedere (great views of Maroe Bay and Bourayne Bay). From the Belvedere, there’s a hiking trail (we didn’t do it).
On Rangiroa:
Do the Reef Island and the Blue Lagoon, but I preferred the Reef Island.
If you’ve stayed on Bora Bora, you can skip the Blue Lagoon.
On Bora Bora:
Island tour by bike
4x4 safari (great views of the lagoon)
Picnic on a motu
Lagoon tour on a funnycat, a kind of motorized pedal boat (
http://boraborafunnycat.in-tahiti.com)
On foot, you can hike up to the Belvedere (but it’s a climb...).
On Maupiti:
Island tour by bike
Hike up to Teurafaatui, the island’s highest point. Bring plenty of water and time, and start early in the morning to handle the heat. Be warned, the climb is tough. We had to turn back due to lack of time (we got lost at one point...)
Walk across the lagoon from the main island’s tip to the motu opposite
Lagoon tour (I did the Sammy Tour with Sammy, who was the manager of Maupiti Residence at the time)
For diving, we dove on every island mentioned.
All dive clubs offer free pick-up from accommodations.
Of all the islands we dove on (Tahiti, Moorea, Huahine, Raiatea, Bora Bora, Maupiti, Rangiroa, Fakarava), our favorites were Fakarava, then Rangiroa, Raiatea, and Maupiti (for the manta ray cleaning station).
We didn’t stay in luxury hotels, preferring smaller, friendlier places, especially if they were run by locals rather than *popa’a* (non-Polynesians).
It might be worth splurging for one night in an overwater bungalow.
Also, you can catch amazing shows at the big hotels without staying there. Just go to the bar or restaurant.
ACCOMMODATIONS:
- In Papeete (2011), I recommend staying at Fare Suisse (
http://www.fare-suisse.com/french/)
The advantage is you’re a 20-minute walk from downtown and can sleep in peace.
In 2003, I stayed at the Hôtel Tiare (right in the city center), and it was very noisy.
Here are some guesthouses I’ve stayed at:
- Moorea (2007): Fare Edith (
http://www.fareedith.com)
Only downside: it’s a bit out of the way (about 2 km from Petit Village Shopping Center, where you’ll find everything: restaurants, activities...), so a vehicle is a must.
- Huahine (2007): Pension Ariitere (
http://www.pensionariitere.com)
Bungalows were a bit dated (at the time). Small pool on-site.
The advantage is you’re close to the town of Fare, and there’s a small beach a few hundred meters away.
- Raiatea (2003 and 2011): Sunset Motel (
http://www.sunset-raiatea.pf/fr/)
A safe bet. In fact, I didn’t hesitate to stay there a second time...
Beautiful bungalows by the lagoon.
No dining on-site, but free transfers to certain restaurants.
Breakfast is delivered every morning. It’s pure bliss to start the day with breakfast on the terrace facing the lagoon!
- Tikehau (2003): Aito Motel Colette
http://www.iles-resa.com/hotel-PENSION-AITO-COLETTE-Tikeau-La-Polynesie-Francaise.html
A real Robinson Crusoe experience... However, there’s little swimming opportunity since the lagoon isn’t deep...
- Rangiroa:
- Raira Lagon (2003) (
http://www.raira-lagon.pf)
The owner has changed since my stay (old info).
- Pension Ariitini Village (2011) (
http://www.rangiroa.pf/pension-ariitini-village)
Has a small coral sand beach (rare in Rangiroa). Bungalows needed a little renovation (at the time). Meals were good and very filling.
- Fakarava (2007): Pension Havaiki (
http://www.havaiki.com)
- Mataiva (2011): Pension Ariiheevai
- Maupiti in 2011 at Maupiti Residence (
http://www.maupitiresidence.info): bungalow on Temae Beach. Only downside: no dining. But there’s a small snack nearby, and you can have meals delivered.
Of course, double-check all this info, as some of it might be outdated—things change often.
Don’t hesitate if you want more details.
One last tip: book well in advance, especially if you want to stay in small places, as capacity is often limited to just a few accommodations.