Travel Journal: In the Land of Vikings, Fjords, and Sheep (page 1 of 3)

Hello everyone,

As usual, I’m posting a new travel journal about our trip to Norway last September. This one will span several months, with a day-by-day account of our adventure. I won’t be posting many photos on the forum (the publishing rules have become even more complicated since my last journal), but you can find all the shots on my blog (address in my signature).

We’ve just returned from a truly extraordinary, unforgettable trip. Planning this trip wasn’t easy, and I’ll admit I struggled to decide on the itinerary… Should we take the Hurtigruten all the way from the south to the north? But a whole trip by boat didn’t really appeal to us. Or focus on the south in the fjord region? But that would mean missing out on the Lofoten Islands… In the end, we chose to concentrate on southern Norway, exploring the coast and fjords, while including a stop in Oslo and mixing train, boat, and car travel. I also opted for a trip where we’d drive less than in previous years (1,650 km compared to 2,000 km in Portugal and 3,800 km in the American West), but we’d still move around a bit and do some hikes. Here’s the itinerary we followed:



This trip was absolutely amazing and introduced us to so many things we’d never seen or done before—fjords, a night on a boat, glaciers, stave churches, snow in summer (…and the high cost of living!).

If we had to sum up our top highlights, here’s our top 3: Mr.:

the variety of landscapes the colors, especially the colors of the water—from crystal clear to light blue and turquoise in some spots eating good fish

Mrs.:

the roads: the ones in the area we explored were truly stunning Geirangerfjord, especially in the late afternoon, when it was quiet and free of cruise ships the Trolltunga hike: a challenging trek and a little personal achievement for us

What we liked less:

the sometimes inconsistent signage on hikes the cost of living (everything costs money, and even food is expensive) the tunnels: there are so many, and they’re not much fun (except for one with a roundabout inside…!)

That’s it for this first summary/overview, and I can already tell that choosing photos is going to be tough!!! Here’s a little preview of what we discovered:



To see the photos in full size on my blog: check it out here

Day 1 - Arrival in Oslo This vacation was really long-awaited this year. We’re starting it exhausted but with high hopes for the landscapes and this new country we’re about to discover. The flight leaves from terminal 2G at Roissy Airport—a small, pretty quiet terminal that’s actually quite nice. The flight goes smoothly all the way to Oslo. The airport is about half an hour from the city center by train, which also happens to be the most economical option. We buy our tickets from a machine and wait for our train, which arrives shortly. The train has rows of 3 seats… quite a change from our usual trains! We then take a tram from the central station to our hotel. It’s right in the embassy district—a pretty upscale area! We drop off our bags and head out to explore the neighborhood, making our way toward the harbor. The sun is out, and it’s really pleasant. We discover the city’s architecture, which sometimes reminds us of the Netherlands, sometimes London…



… and even Barcelona as we approach the harbor!



For dinner tonight, I’d spotted a great little restaurant before we left, and we really didn’t regret our choice! The occasion was a bit special—today we’re celebrating our 5th wedding anniversary—so I wanted to make it memorable. The atmosphere at Hos Thea is really pleasant, the staff is super friendly (we were each given a glass of wine and a glass of champagne), and the food was delicious (though the bill was a bit steep… but that’s Norway for you!). All in all, a fantastic evening and a beautiful memory.

After dinner, we take advantage of the lovely evening to head back to the harbor and enjoy the view.



We take a few photos, wander around the neighborhood, and are drawn to some noise coming from an outdoor bar. The closer we get, the more we realize what’s going on—it’s actually an open-air cinema! A great terrace overlooks a sort of beach where dozens of people are settled in, watching… *Dirty Dancing*!! People are clapping, girls are screaming “ooohhh” during the iconic scenes… the movie’s in English, but it doesn’t matter—like all girls, I know the lines by heart. It’s really fun and kind of surreal to be there with complete strangers who know and have seen this movie dozens of times, just like us… and to think this is probably happening all over the world! After this unique moment, we head back to bed… this trip is off to a great start!

If you’d like more details about the sights, our hotel, or to see more photos, check out my blog: Day 1 - Arrival in Oslo

Thanks for stopping by! See you soon!

Hi there, I’ll be following your travel journal with great interest—our trip to Norway last year was amazing, and I’m definitely planning to go back! 🙂

Thanks for your enthusiasm and your sweet note. I totally get your urge to go back—I’d love to return too! The word that comes up most when I talk about this trip is "unbelievable." The landscapes, the colors... 🙂

For now, I’m just looking back at my photos—it makes me feel like I’m traveling all over again! 😉

Day 2 - Exploring the Norwegian Capital

Today we spent our very first full day in Oslo. After a hearty breakfast, we headed to the Royal Palace and its park, Slottsparken. The weather was a bit overcast, but it wasn’t cold. It was 10 AM, and we arrived just in time for the changing of the guard. It was a simplified version (since it was Sunday morning), much less strict and spectacular than the one in London, but still nice to see (the one we’ll see tomorrow at 1:30 PM will be a bit more impressive). Here, the guards are allowed to move their heads, which they do regularly to observe their surroundings and make sure everything’s okay.



We headed back to the harbor and made our way to Akershusstranda to take some photos of the docked boats before reaching the Defence Museum, Forsvarsmuseet. We passed by the famous Nobel Peace Center, where the Nobel Peace Prize is awarded every year. The visit to the Defence Museum was enjoyable, with a really cool collection covering a period from the early days of the Norwegian army to today. My partner, who’s passionate about the military (this museum was part of the reason we came to Oslo), was thrilled! The late morning was spent on a long walk in the park of Akershus Fortress. We discovered some quirky statues and a peaceful spot that was lovely to explore. After that, we decided to visit the Akershus Palace. The visit was really enjoyable and I loved it. It was almost 2 PM when we left the palace… we found a little snack bar that served sandwiches and coffee. There weren’t many people, but the "traveler" vibe of the place really appealed to us… even though the food was pricey (which isn’t the place’s fault—everything’s expensive in this country). When we left, full and rested, the sun still hadn’t decided to come out… We made our way to the Opera House, a massive iceberg-like building inaugurated in 2008. The interior and the roof are free to access. The sloping roof offers a great view of Oslo Fjord. The inside is stunning—bright, with a mix of white and wood, and geometric shapes that are definitely worth seeing.



Still on foot, we decided to head a bit further north, crossing the city to reach the Fredensborg district and its amazing street art on Brenneriveien street.



Along the way, we stopped at Oslo Cathedral, Oslo Domkirke. This cathedral is surrounded by arcades housing little shops, restaurants, and cafés. It’s surprisingly small compared to others we’ve visited so far, but its magnificent ceiling is worth a look (entry is free).

It started raining, so we headed back to the city center. We bought dinner at a Deli de Luca (pasta and other items sold by weight) and walked back to the hotel, exhausted. The day was tiring, packed with great visits, but Oslo won’t be making it into our top 3 favorite cities.

For more info (practical tips under "En pratique" at the bottom of the article) or photos, check it out here: Day 2 - Exploring the Norwegian Capital

Thanks for reading!

Day 3 - The Nobel Prize City

Last day of sightseeing in Oslo! And even though the title suggests it, we won’t be visiting the Nobel Peace Center today! This morning, we’re changing neighborhoods to explore some charming colorful houses. Two different districts await us, a bit off the beaten path—especially the last one—which promises a good morning of walking. We start by heading to Our Saviour’s Cemetery, Vår frelsers gravlunf (impossible to spell…). This first encounter with a Norwegian cemetery is surprising: it’s covered in grass, and the gravestones seem randomly placed. There’s no real order, and you can go anywhere. It feels a bit like a *Addams Family* remake, especially with the gray sky and a few raindrops disrupting our visit.

Next, we head to the pretty neighborhoods adjacent to the cemetery: Telthusbakken and Bergfjerdingen. The colorful wooden houses line the sloping streets. We’re almost alone, except for a few locals wandering around—we enjoy having the streets all to ourselves. Each house has a different facade and color, some built right next to a tree, and the cobblestone streets give the area an old-world charm.



Finally, we end the morning in Rodeløkka, which we reach on foot (it’s a bit far, let’s be honest!). Another cool neighborhood (which we doubted we’d find, as it’s "hidden" among apartment buildings), with more charming colorful wooden houses. It was worth the detour!

Now that we’ve visited this neighborhood at the end of the world, we have to head back… We run into some trouble finding a kiosk to buy tickets but eventually succeed after a few failed attempts! Back in the city center, we wander a bit and grab a bite at a King Burger (not glorious, but we didn’t find a grocery store along the way, and it’s not too expensive!). After that, we pass by the Parliament before heading to the Royal Palace to watch the changing of the guard, which takes place at 1:30 PM. We’d already seen a small version yesterday (see here), but that was on a Sunday morning… we’re hoping for a better show today. Unlike yesterday, the ceremony is more impressive—there are lots of soldiers, and two of them have bugles (though they don’t play them). It was way cooler than yesterday!

This afternoon, we decide to visit a museum in Bygdøy, a peninsula west of the city center. To get there, we take a boat that shuttles back and forth from the harbor several times a day. We head to the Fram Museum, which we’ve been wanting to see. We don’t realize how big the exhibit is and think it’s a small museum… so when they offer us a combined ticket for the Fram Museum + the Norwegian Maritime Museum, we say yes. Big mistake—the Fram Museum is *huge*, and the other museum, unless you’re a maritime enthusiast, is less interesting.

Anyway, we enter the Fram Museum and immediately see the ship—*the entire ship*—inside! The museum covers the Fram expedition, a polar maritime journey that left Oslo to reach the North Pole in the late 19th century. The Fram is the ship from that expedition, proudly displayed in the museum. It was specially designed to withstand ice pressure because the idea was to let the ship get "trapped" and carried by the ice to the North Pole via the drift of the pack ice… This museum was a fantastic discovery. The visit is both educational and enjoyable.



Of course, you can explore the inside of the ship and imagine these men, over a century ago, setting off on an adventure to the North Pole without today’s technology—believing in it and succeeding… Fascinating! After a quick tour of the other museum, we walk back to Pier 1 to catch the return shuttle. The sun comes out, so we sit for a bit to soak it up and recharge our batteries. In the late afternoon, I drag us to a bar I’d spotted before leaving: the Magic Ice Bar. It’s nothing more or less than a giant freezer where you can have a drink. After paying the entrance fee, we gear up with gloves and capes provided on-site. We go through an airlock to maintain the temperature inside, then enter the bar itself. Everything here is made of ice: the furniture, the glasses, and ice sculptures. Obviously, it’s not warm, but the idea is super fun and cool!



When we leave, we grab some food (again at a Deli de Luca, since there’s one near the bar) before heading back to the hotel. All in all, we discovered beautiful, typically Norwegian architecture *and* an amazing museum… what a great day!

For more details on the visits or to see more photos, check it out here: Day 3 - The Nobel Prize City.

See you soon!

Hi there,

It’s always a pleasure to revisit Norway’s fabulous landscapes. 🙂

We chatted a bit during your planning phase, so I’m even more curious to see how you put the theory into practice. 😉

Looking forward to the rest! !

Hi there, Thanks for your message! And thanks for your help during the planning phase! Your tips, along with those from other members, really helped me out. 😉 I get why you're interested in the landscapes... This country is simply incredible!

Indeed, we were also very impressed by the FRAM. It’s definitely worth a visit. Thanks for these great travel journals.

Oh wow, yes!! This museum is incredible and the story of these men is fascinating!! Thanks so much for your message, it’s really encouraging!

Hi there, here’s the next part of the story!

Day 4 - Onboard the train from Oslo to Bergen Today we’re leaving Oslo for Bergen by train. We’re really looking forward to this train journey (said to be one of the most beautiful in the world), especially since Oslo didn’t quite win us over. While we made some nice discoveries in the capital, we didn’t find it particularly charming, and it didn’t feel like a typical Norwegian city. Our train departs at 12:03 PM from Oslo Station and arrives in Bergen at 6:58 PM, so we take our time for breakfast, grab a few groceries for the train ride, and have a coffee at the station. Unlike the SNCF, the Norwegian rail service displays train info nearly an hour before departure, which lets us settle in calmly and avoid the last-minute rush. A long afternoon of travel awaits us, with stunning landscapes, plenty of legroom, all in a clean and quiet train. The train departs, winds its way out of the city, and we notice trampolines in almost every garden! After about 2 hours, the scenery starts getting really beautiful.

From one valley to the next, the weather shifts dramatically—gray and rainy one minute, bright sunshine the next. It’s pretty impressive!

The train sometimes runs at the same level as the fjords, which is also quite a sight! We reach the highest point of the route at 1,237 meters above sea level, on the Hardangervidda plateau. The highest station is Finse, at 1,222 meters. Snow is visible on the plateau, and while the mist is thick, the sun occasionally peeks through.



The descent is under rain, through forests and lush green landscapes. We lose the sun-and-rain game—it’s pouring when we arrive in Bergen. After a 15-minute walk, we reach our hotel soaked (a little tip I’d recommend: bring a large zip-lock bag to protect city maps or hiking maps—it came in handy a few times during our trip). We do a quick load of laundry and grab a bite in our room before heading back out to explore Bergen, now that the rain has stopped (for now).

A lovely end to the day before we rest up—tomorrow we plan to visit the city.

If you’d like to see more photos, check them out here: Day 4 - Onboard the train... from Oslo to Bergen. Thanks for taking a look! See you soon.

Hello,

I love your photos—they’re so well-framed, and you really capture the beauty of this amazing country! Keep it up (I checked out your blog). Try visiting in winter for the northern lights—it’s magical! My whole family loves this country; some of us even dream of living there. The nature is so stunning, and the people are so friendly. I’ll be following along…

Raf.

A huge thank you for your kind words! I totally get your enthusiasm for this country... we really found it extraordinary. Definitely, going back in winter to see the northern lights is on our (long) travel list... probably in a few years! 😉

Elodie

Back in my day (in 1975), we visited other museums besides the Fram: the Kon-Tiki; the one with the longships, the Vikingskipshuset; an open-air museum of Norwegian houses, the Norsk Folkemuseum; and especially the very surprising Vigeland Park. Are they still around?

We didn’t visit these museums (given the time we spent in the city and the cost of living in Norway), but from what I found online, they’re still there!

Thanks for this such a lovely update with such beautiful photos.

A huge thank you for taking the time to write me this message! 🙂

Day 5: Bergen, the City Where It Rains 300 Days a Year Hi there! I'm back with the next part of the story, and it's a wet one! Yes, it's not just a legend—it rains a lot in Bergen!!

First morning in Bergen! We woke up early, but the hearty breakfast helped us shake off the sleep. This morning, we planned to see Bergen from above! Our nighttime visit the evening before had let us discover the funicular and its pretty lights. We quickly headed to the visitor center by the harbor to pick up the hiking booklet for Mount Fløyen. The Fløibanen funicular took us to the top, offering a stunning view of the city..



Below, we spotted the mountain’s cute residents, who were also likely soaking in the amazing view! We started our little hike with rain and wind that wouldn’t really let up all day.. We had the trail to ourselves, walking through a forest that felt a bit enchanted and mysterious. The trail markers weren’t great (this first "so-so marking" experience would be confirmed on all the hikes during our trip), but we always found our way back to the right path!



By late morning, we headed back down and set off to explore the Bryggen district, the oldest part of the city and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Several fires have destroyed this area of wooden houses, which were rebuilt using old methods. A few changes have still been made—while it used to be the Hanseatic League’s district, it’s now more of a place where artists display their work.



After grabbing a few groceries from a small supermarket and eating a meal in our room to stay dry, we set off to discover another part of Bergen: Nordnes. We found some really pretty wooden houses there, white or colorful—so Norway!



By late afternoon, we headed back down to the harbor—the weather was awful! It was pouring rain, with strong gusts of wind, but we didn’t care. We’d decided to wait for the arrival of the cycling race "Tour des Fjords." We’re not big cycling fans, but the atmosphere was nice despite the weather, especially since they were handing out delicious salmon and lemon foil packets!

We didn’t know the winner (clearly not a French rider—I think), but it was still fun to watch. To wrap up this rainy day, we took one last stroll around the harbor, where we saw how they cut up a huge tuna—impressive! We finally got back to the hotel exhausted and soaked! In our room, everything that could be used to hang up our wet clothes was put to work!! The city has a lot of charm and a really appealing architecture, even if the weather did kind of ruin the visit, I have to admit. Have a great Sunday!

If you want to see more photos or get details about our visits: Day 5: Bergen, the City Where It Rains 300 Days a Year Thanks for joining us! See you soon!

Day 6: Boarding Day

Woke up at 8 AM! We’d already seen quite a bit of Bergen, and since we had to pick up our ride in the early afternoon, we took it easy—no packed schedule today. We did some grocery shopping for meals over the next day or so, picked up a few souvenir trinkets, and went for a stroll.

A quick walk along Bergen’s now-famous quayside…



Then we headed to Torgallmennigen square, where a young woman was blowing giant soap bubbles to entertain passersby. After that, we visited Johanneskirken church—so imposing from the outside and just as impressive inside. The wooden ceiling and massive organ are definitely worth seeing!



After our little city tour, we went back to the hotel to grab our suitcases, then took the bus to pick up our rental car. Everything went smoothly, and we ended up with a cute two-tone Fiat 500L—super nice!

Since it was still a bit early, we decided to head to a shopping mall. We somehow managed to kill time before making our way to the port for boarding the Hurtigruten. I’ve been dreaming of this moment for months—thinking about the Hurtigruten for years, actually. And now, here we are!



Boarding was scheduled for 6 PM, but we could check in and load our luggage as early as 5 PM. After a quick safety briefing, we were allowed on board. At 6 PM, it was time to load the car (only one person could go get it—my husband drew the short straw!). We set off to find our cabin. Eventually, we did: a small windowless cabin at the very front of the ship, on the lowest deck. I wasn’t feeling quite so brave when I spotted a huge watertight door in the hallway—apparently for sealing the ship in case of an emergency. And then there was the Bible in the cabin drawer… not exactly reassuring!

Our luggage had already been delivered to the cabin, so we set off to explore the ship. We were like kids, running up and down the decks to check out our new “home” for the next 24 hours.

We were supposed to depart at 8 PM, but by 9 PM, the ship was still docked. After a quick meal in the cabin, we went back out—only to realize the ship had just left! We didn’t even notice!



It was still raining in Bergen (as expected!), so we wandered around the ship, trying to figure out where all the staircases led—no easy task! After grabbing a beer at the bar, we discovered a cozy lounge with an elevator (who knew ships had elevators?).

This was our first time on a boat for such a long stretch—actually living and sleeping on it. The rocking motion felt a little strange, but we were so excited about this new experience!

It was hard to believe we were really on a ship when we went to bed that night.

If you want to see more photos, check them out here: Day 6: Boarding Day

Wishing you all happy holidays! See you soon!

Hello hello!

With just a few days left in the year, I’m back to share the next part of the adventure... Today, I’m taking you right into the heart of the matter: the Norwegian fjords, discovered aboard the Hurtigruten.

Day 7 - Aboard the Hurtigruten...

I woke up at 6:45 AM to enjoy the breakfast room in peace before the crowd arrived. We slept terribly—me haunted by the catastrophic endings of *Titanic* and *The Perfect Storm*, and my partner woken up by the noise and vibrations of the boat. In short, the night was short and not very restful (but we still don’t regret taking the boat!). We were right to get up early: the dining room was calm, and we could sit by the porthole to watch the landscape go by before heading to the stern to keep watch. The weather was very foggy, making it a bit hard to see the scenery, but we could make out the expanse of water and the fjords taking shape.

We spent the morning outside the cabin, bundled up in our coats, braving the cold and fog. We were almost alone out there, enjoying the quiet moment to admire the view (and lose the cap of my lens—oops!!). The showers eventually wore down our determination. Around 8:30 AM, we reached Ålesund. Some people disembarked, others boarded. We stayed on the boat—we wouldn’t get off in Ålesund until this evening, after a day of exploring the Hjørundfjord. We had an early lunch to avoid the crowd and catch the first small shuttle to Urke, a tiny village of about fifty residents, with around ten people working there.

After disembarking, we headed to a viewpoint that gave us a higher perspective of the Norangsfjord, a small arm of the Hjørundfjord. Along the way, we discovered the village’s small farms and houses. Everything was calm, peaceful, and quiet. The clouds settled like cotton on the mountains and trees.

Despite the threatening weather, the showers started up again. The rest of the visit was spent dodging raindrops, but the village kept its charm. We eventually spotted some unlisted residents: the sheep. They were just as peaceful, grazing in a stunning setting.

Around 1:30 PM, we boarded the last shuttle back to our boat. It was time to head back to Ålesund. We were lucky—the entire return trip was rain-free, and we even got a bit of sunshine. It was gorgeous!

Around 5 PM, we docked in Ålesund. I unloaded our suitcases while my partner got the car. The hotel was just a few minutes away. We parked and discovered our huge room with a view of the harbor. We didn’t linger in the hotel and hurried out to explore the city, taking advantage of a lull in the weather. From the harbor, we got a few views of the city and its surprising Art Nouveau style.



We ended the day with a good beer at Dirty Nelly, a pub with a super fun atmosphere and decor.

We went back to the hotel to eat our sandwiches and turned in early—my inner ear was playing tricks on me, making me feel like I was still on the boat, swaying.

If you want to see more photos and practical info, check it out here: Day 7 - Aboard the Hurtigruten

Thanks for taking a look! See you soon!