Travel Journal: In the Land of Vikings, Fjords, and Sheep

Hello everyone,

As usual, I’m posting a new travel journal about our trip to Norway last September. This one will span several months, with a day-by-day account of our adventure. I won’t be posting many photos on the forum (the publishing rules have become even more complicated since my last journal), but you can find all the shots on my blog (address in my signature).

We’ve just returned from a truly extraordinary, unforgettable trip. Planning this trip wasn’t easy, and I’ll admit I struggled to decide on the itinerary… Should we take the Hurtigruten all the way from the south to the north? But a whole trip by boat didn’t really appeal to us. Or focus on the south in the fjord region? But that would mean missing out on the Lofoten Islands… In the end, we chose to concentrate on southern Norway, exploring the coast and fjords, while including a stop in Oslo and mixing train, boat, and car travel. I also opted for a trip where we’d drive less than in previous years (1,650 km compared to 2,000 km in Portugal and 3,800 km in the American West), but we’d still move around a bit and do some hikes. Here’s the itinerary we followed:



This trip was absolutely amazing and introduced us to so many things we’d never seen or done before—fjords, a night on a boat, glaciers, stave churches, snow in summer (…and the high cost of living!).

If we had to sum up our top highlights, here’s our top 3: Mr.:

the variety of landscapes the colors, especially the colors of the water—from crystal clear to light blue and turquoise in some spots eating good fish

Mrs.:

the roads: the ones in the area we explored were truly stunning Geirangerfjord, especially in the late afternoon, when it was quiet and free of cruise ships the Trolltunga hike: a challenging trek and a little personal achievement for us

What we liked less:

the sometimes inconsistent signage on hikes the cost of living (everything costs money, and even food is expensive) the tunnels: there are so many, and they’re not much fun (except for one with a roundabout inside…!)

That’s it for this first summary/overview, and I can already tell that choosing photos is going to be tough!!! Here’s a little preview of what we discovered:



To see the photos in full size on my blog: check it out here

Day 1 - Arrival in Oslo This vacation was really long-awaited this year. We’re starting it exhausted but with high hopes for the landscapes and this new country we’re about to discover. The flight leaves from terminal 2G at Roissy Airport—a small, pretty quiet terminal that’s actually quite nice. The flight goes smoothly all the way to Oslo. The airport is about half an hour from the city center by train, which also happens to be the most economical option. We buy our tickets from a machine and wait for our train, which arrives shortly. The train has rows of 3 seats… quite a change from our usual trains! We then take a tram from the central station to our hotel. It’s right in the embassy district—a pretty upscale area! We drop off our bags and head out to explore the neighborhood, making our way toward the harbor. The sun is out, and it’s really pleasant. We discover the city’s architecture, which sometimes reminds us of the Netherlands, sometimes London…



… and even Barcelona as we approach the harbor!



For dinner tonight, I’d spotted a great little restaurant before we left, and we really didn’t regret our choice! The occasion was a bit special—today we’re celebrating our 5th wedding anniversary—so I wanted to make it memorable. The atmosphere at Hos Thea is really pleasant, the staff is super friendly (we were each given a glass of wine and a glass of champagne), and the food was delicious (though the bill was a bit steep… but that’s Norway for you!). All in all, a fantastic evening and a beautiful memory.

After dinner, we take advantage of the lovely evening to head back to the harbor and enjoy the view.



We take a few photos, wander around the neighborhood, and are drawn to some noise coming from an outdoor bar. The closer we get, the more we realize what’s going on—it’s actually an open-air cinema! A great terrace overlooks a sort of beach where dozens of people are settled in, watching… *Dirty Dancing*!! People are clapping, girls are screaming “ooohhh” during the iconic scenes… the movie’s in English, but it doesn’t matter—like all girls, I know the lines by heart. It’s really fun and kind of surreal to be there with complete strangers who know and have seen this movie dozens of times, just like us… and to think this is probably happening all over the world! After this unique moment, we head back to bed… this trip is off to a great start!

If you’d like more details about the sights, our hotel, or to see more photos, check out my blog: Day 1 - Arrival in Oslo

Thanks for stopping by! See you soon!

Hi there, I’ll be following your travel journal with great interest—our trip to Norway last year was amazing, and I’m definitely planning to go back! 🙂

Thanks for your enthusiasm and your sweet note. I totally get your urge to go back—I’d love to return too! The word that comes up most when I talk about this trip is "unbelievable." The landscapes, the colors... 🙂

For now, I’m just looking back at my photos—it makes me feel like I’m traveling all over again! 😉

Day 2 - Exploring the Norwegian Capital

Today we spent our very first full day in Oslo. After a hearty breakfast, we headed to the Royal Palace and its park, Slottsparken. The weather was a bit overcast, but it wasn’t cold. It was 10 AM, and we arrived just in time for the changing of the guard. It was a simplified version (since it was Sunday morning), much less strict and spectacular than the one in London, but still nice to see (the one we’ll see tomorrow at 1:30 PM will be a bit more impressive). Here, the guards are allowed to move their heads, which they do regularly to observe their surroundings and make sure everything’s okay.



We headed back to the harbor and made our way to Akershusstranda to take some photos of the docked boats before reaching the Defence Museum, Forsvarsmuseet. We passed by the famous Nobel Peace Center, where the Nobel Peace Prize is awarded every year. The visit to the Defence Museum was enjoyable, with a really cool collection covering a period from the early days of the Norwegian army to today. My partner, who’s passionate about the military (this museum was part of the reason we came to Oslo), was thrilled! The late morning was spent on a long walk in the park of Akershus Fortress. We discovered some quirky statues and a peaceful spot that was lovely to explore. After that, we decided to visit the Akershus Palace. The visit was really enjoyable and I loved it. It was almost 2 PM when we left the palace… we found a little snack bar that served sandwiches and coffee. There weren’t many people, but the "traveler" vibe of the place really appealed to us… even though the food was pricey (which isn’t the place’s fault—everything’s expensive in this country). When we left, full and rested, the sun still hadn’t decided to come out… We made our way to the Opera House, a massive iceberg-like building inaugurated in 2008. The interior and the roof are free to access. The sloping roof offers a great view of Oslo Fjord. The inside is stunning—bright, with a mix of white and wood, and geometric shapes that are definitely worth seeing.



Still on foot, we decided to head a bit further north, crossing the city to reach the Fredensborg district and its amazing street art on Brenneriveien street.



Along the way, we stopped at Oslo Cathedral, Oslo Domkirke. This cathedral is surrounded by arcades housing little shops, restaurants, and cafés. It’s surprisingly small compared to others we’ve visited so far, but its magnificent ceiling is worth a look (entry is free).

It started raining, so we headed back to the city center. We bought dinner at a Deli de Luca (pasta and other items sold by weight) and walked back to the hotel, exhausted. The day was tiring, packed with great visits, but Oslo won’t be making it into our top 3 favorite cities.

For more info (practical tips under "En pratique" at the bottom of the article) or photos, check it out here: Day 2 - Exploring the Norwegian Capital

Thanks for reading!

Day 3 - The Nobel Prize City

Last day of sightseeing in Oslo! And even though the title suggests it, we won’t be visiting the Nobel Peace Center today! This morning, we’re changing neighborhoods to explore some charming colorful houses. Two different districts await us, a bit off the beaten path—especially the last one—which promises a good morning of walking. We start by heading to Our Saviour’s Cemetery, Vår frelsers gravlunf (impossible to spell…). This first encounter with a Norwegian cemetery is surprising: it’s covered in grass, and the gravestones seem randomly placed. There’s no real order, and you can go anywhere. It feels a bit like a *Addams Family* remake, especially with the gray sky and a few raindrops disrupting our visit.

Next, we head to the pretty neighborhoods adjacent to the cemetery: Telthusbakken and Bergfjerdingen. The colorful wooden houses line the sloping streets. We’re almost alone, except for a few locals wandering around—we enjoy having the streets all to ourselves. Each house has a different facade and color, some built right next to a tree, and the cobblestone streets give the area an old-world charm.



Finally, we end the morning in Rodeløkka, which we reach on foot (it’s a bit far, let’s be honest!). Another cool neighborhood (which we doubted we’d find, as it’s "hidden" among apartment buildings), with more charming colorful wooden houses. It was worth the detour!

Now that we’ve visited this neighborhood at the end of the world, we have to head back… We run into some trouble finding a kiosk to buy tickets but eventually succeed after a few failed attempts! Back in the city center, we wander a bit and grab a bite at a King Burger (not glorious, but we didn’t find a grocery store along the way, and it’s not too expensive!). After that, we pass by the Parliament before heading to the Royal Palace to watch the changing of the guard, which takes place at 1:30 PM. We’d already seen a small version yesterday (see here), but that was on a Sunday morning… we’re hoping for a better show today. Unlike yesterday, the ceremony is more impressive—there are lots of soldiers, and two of them have bugles (though they don’t play them). It was way cooler than yesterday!

This afternoon, we decide to visit a museum in Bygdøy, a peninsula west of the city center. To get there, we take a boat that shuttles back and forth from the harbor several times a day. We head to the Fram Museum, which we’ve been wanting to see. We don’t realize how big the exhibit is and think it’s a small museum… so when they offer us a combined ticket for the Fram Museum + the Norwegian Maritime Museum, we say yes. Big mistake—the Fram Museum is *huge*, and the other museum, unless you’re a maritime enthusiast, is less interesting.

Anyway, we enter the Fram Museum and immediately see the ship—*the entire ship*—inside! The museum covers the Fram expedition, a polar maritime journey that left Oslo to reach the North Pole in the late 19th century. The Fram is the ship from that expedition, proudly displayed in the museum. It was specially designed to withstand ice pressure because the idea was to let the ship get "trapped" and carried by the ice to the North Pole via the drift of the pack ice… This museum was a fantastic discovery. The visit is both educational and enjoyable.



Of course, you can explore the inside of the ship and imagine these men, over a century ago, setting off on an adventure to the North Pole without today’s technology—believing in it and succeeding… Fascinating! After a quick tour of the other museum, we walk back to Pier 1 to catch the return shuttle. The sun comes out, so we sit for a bit to soak it up and recharge our batteries. In the late afternoon, I drag us to a bar I’d spotted before leaving: the Magic Ice Bar. It’s nothing more or less than a giant freezer where you can have a drink. After paying the entrance fee, we gear up with gloves and capes provided on-site. We go through an airlock to maintain the temperature inside, then enter the bar itself. Everything here is made of ice: the furniture, the glasses, and ice sculptures. Obviously, it’s not warm, but the idea is super fun and cool!



When we leave, we grab some food (again at a Deli de Luca, since there’s one near the bar) before heading back to the hotel. All in all, we discovered beautiful, typically Norwegian architecture *and* an amazing museum… what a great day!

For more details on the visits or to see more photos, check it out here: Day 3 - The Nobel Prize City.

See you soon!

Hi there,

It’s always a pleasure to revisit Norway’s fabulous landscapes. 🙂

We chatted a bit during your planning phase, so I’m even more curious to see how you put the theory into practice. 😉

Looking forward to the rest! !

Hi there, Thanks for your message! And thanks for your help during the planning phase! Your tips, along with those from other members, really helped me out. 😉 I get why you're interested in the landscapes... This country is simply incredible!

Indeed, we were also very impressed by the FRAM. It’s definitely worth a visit. Thanks for these great travel journals.

Oh wow, yes!! This museum is incredible and the story of these men is fascinating!! Thanks so much for your message, it’s really encouraging!

Hi there, here’s the next part of the story!

Day 4 - Onboard the train from Oslo to Bergen Today we’re leaving Oslo for Bergen by train. We’re really looking forward to this train journey (said to be one of the most beautiful in the world), especially since Oslo didn’t quite win us over. While we made some nice discoveries in the capital, we didn’t find it particularly charming, and it didn’t feel like a typical Norwegian city. Our train departs at 12:03 PM from Oslo Station and arrives in Bergen at 6:58 PM, so we take our time for breakfast, grab a few groceries for the train ride, and have a coffee at the station. Unlike the SNCF, the Norwegian rail service displays train info nearly an hour before departure, which lets us settle in calmly and avoid the last-minute rush. A long afternoon of travel awaits us, with stunning landscapes, plenty of legroom, all in a clean and quiet train. The train departs, winds its way out of the city, and we notice trampolines in almost every garden! After about 2 hours, the scenery starts getting really beautiful.

From one valley to the next, the weather shifts dramatically—gray and rainy one minute, bright sunshine the next. It’s pretty impressive!

The train sometimes runs at the same level as the fjords, which is also quite a sight! We reach the highest point of the route at 1,237 meters above sea level, on the Hardangervidda plateau. The highest station is Finse, at 1,222 meters. Snow is visible on the plateau, and while the mist is thick, the sun occasionally peeks through.



The descent is under rain, through forests and lush green landscapes. We lose the sun-and-rain game—it’s pouring when we arrive in Bergen. After a 15-minute walk, we reach our hotel soaked (a little tip I’d recommend: bring a large zip-lock bag to protect city maps or hiking maps—it came in handy a few times during our trip). We do a quick load of laundry and grab a bite in our room before heading back out to explore Bergen, now that the rain has stopped (for now).

A lovely end to the day before we rest up—tomorrow we plan to visit the city.

If you’d like to see more photos, check them out here: Day 4 - Onboard the train... from Oslo to Bergen. Thanks for taking a look! See you soon.

Hello,

I love your photos—they’re so well-framed, and you really capture the beauty of this amazing country! Keep it up (I checked out your blog). Try visiting in winter for the northern lights—it’s magical! My whole family loves this country; some of us even dream of living there. The nature is so stunning, and the people are so friendly. I’ll be following along…

Raf.

A huge thank you for your kind words! I totally get your enthusiasm for this country... we really found it extraordinary. Definitely, going back in winter to see the northern lights is on our (long) travel list... probably in a few years! 😉

Elodie

Back in my day (in 1975), we visited other museums besides the Fram: the Kon-Tiki; the one with the longships, the Vikingskipshuset; an open-air museum of Norwegian houses, the Norsk Folkemuseum; and especially the very surprising Vigeland Park. Are they still around?

We didn’t visit these museums (given the time we spent in the city and the cost of living in Norway), but from what I found online, they’re still there!

Thanks for this such a lovely update with such beautiful photos.

A huge thank you for taking the time to write me this message! 🙂

Day 5: Bergen, the City Where It Rains 300 Days a Year Hi there! I'm back with the next part of the story, and it's a wet one! Yes, it's not just a legend—it rains a lot in Bergen!!

First morning in Bergen! We woke up early, but the hearty breakfast helped us shake off the sleep. This morning, we planned to see Bergen from above! Our nighttime visit the evening before had let us discover the funicular and its pretty lights. We quickly headed to the visitor center by the harbor to pick up the hiking booklet for Mount Fløyen. The Fløibanen funicular took us to the top, offering a stunning view of the city..



Below, we spotted the mountain’s cute residents, who were also likely soaking in the amazing view! We started our little hike with rain and wind that wouldn’t really let up all day.. We had the trail to ourselves, walking through a forest that felt a bit enchanted and mysterious. The trail markers weren’t great (this first "so-so marking" experience would be confirmed on all the hikes during our trip), but we always found our way back to the right path!



By late morning, we headed back down and set off to explore the Bryggen district, the oldest part of the city and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Several fires have destroyed this area of wooden houses, which were rebuilt using old methods. A few changes have still been made—while it used to be the Hanseatic League’s district, it’s now more of a place where artists display their work.



After grabbing a few groceries from a small supermarket and eating a meal in our room to stay dry, we set off to discover another part of Bergen: Nordnes. We found some really pretty wooden houses there, white or colorful—so Norway!



By late afternoon, we headed back down to the harbor—the weather was awful! It was pouring rain, with strong gusts of wind, but we didn’t care. We’d decided to wait for the arrival of the cycling race "Tour des Fjords." We’re not big cycling fans, but the atmosphere was nice despite the weather, especially since they were handing out delicious salmon and lemon foil packets!

We didn’t know the winner (clearly not a French rider—I think), but it was still fun to watch. To wrap up this rainy day, we took one last stroll around the harbor, where we saw how they cut up a huge tuna—impressive! We finally got back to the hotel exhausted and soaked! In our room, everything that could be used to hang up our wet clothes was put to work!! The city has a lot of charm and a really appealing architecture, even if the weather did kind of ruin the visit, I have to admit. Have a great Sunday!

If you want to see more photos or get details about our visits: Day 5: Bergen, the City Where It Rains 300 Days a Year Thanks for joining us! See you soon!

Day 6: Boarding Day

Woke up at 8 AM! We’d already seen quite a bit of Bergen, and since we had to pick up our ride in the early afternoon, we took it easy—no packed schedule today. We did some grocery shopping for meals over the next day or so, picked up a few souvenir trinkets, and went for a stroll.

A quick walk along Bergen’s now-famous quayside…



Then we headed to Torgallmennigen square, where a young woman was blowing giant soap bubbles to entertain passersby. After that, we visited Johanneskirken church—so imposing from the outside and just as impressive inside. The wooden ceiling and massive organ are definitely worth seeing!



After our little city tour, we went back to the hotel to grab our suitcases, then took the bus to pick up our rental car. Everything went smoothly, and we ended up with a cute two-tone Fiat 500L—super nice!

Since it was still a bit early, we decided to head to a shopping mall. We somehow managed to kill time before making our way to the port for boarding the Hurtigruten. I’ve been dreaming of this moment for months—thinking about the Hurtigruten for years, actually. And now, here we are!



Boarding was scheduled for 6 PM, but we could check in and load our luggage as early as 5 PM. After a quick safety briefing, we were allowed on board. At 6 PM, it was time to load the car (only one person could go get it—my husband drew the short straw!). We set off to find our cabin. Eventually, we did: a small windowless cabin at the very front of the ship, on the lowest deck. I wasn’t feeling quite so brave when I spotted a huge watertight door in the hallway—apparently for sealing the ship in case of an emergency. And then there was the Bible in the cabin drawer… not exactly reassuring!

Our luggage had already been delivered to the cabin, so we set off to explore the ship. We were like kids, running up and down the decks to check out our new “home” for the next 24 hours.

We were supposed to depart at 8 PM, but by 9 PM, the ship was still docked. After a quick meal in the cabin, we went back out—only to realize the ship had just left! We didn’t even notice!



It was still raining in Bergen (as expected!), so we wandered around the ship, trying to figure out where all the staircases led—no easy task! After grabbing a beer at the bar, we discovered a cozy lounge with an elevator (who knew ships had elevators?).

This was our first time on a boat for such a long stretch—actually living and sleeping on it. The rocking motion felt a little strange, but we were so excited about this new experience!

It was hard to believe we were really on a ship when we went to bed that night.

If you want to see more photos, check them out here: Day 6: Boarding Day

Wishing you all happy holidays! See you soon!

Hello hello!

With just a few days left in the year, I’m back to share the next part of the adventure... Today, I’m taking you right into the heart of the matter: the Norwegian fjords, discovered aboard the Hurtigruten.

Day 7 - Aboard the Hurtigruten...

I woke up at 6:45 AM to enjoy the breakfast room in peace before the crowd arrived. We slept terribly—me haunted by the catastrophic endings of *Titanic* and *The Perfect Storm*, and my partner woken up by the noise and vibrations of the boat. In short, the night was short and not very restful (but we still don’t regret taking the boat!). We were right to get up early: the dining room was calm, and we could sit by the porthole to watch the landscape go by before heading to the stern to keep watch. The weather was very foggy, making it a bit hard to see the scenery, but we could make out the expanse of water and the fjords taking shape.

We spent the morning outside the cabin, bundled up in our coats, braving the cold and fog. We were almost alone out there, enjoying the quiet moment to admire the view (and lose the cap of my lens—oops!!). The showers eventually wore down our determination. Around 8:30 AM, we reached Ålesund. Some people disembarked, others boarded. We stayed on the boat—we wouldn’t get off in Ålesund until this evening, after a day of exploring the Hjørundfjord. We had an early lunch to avoid the crowd and catch the first small shuttle to Urke, a tiny village of about fifty residents, with around ten people working there.

After disembarking, we headed to a viewpoint that gave us a higher perspective of the Norangsfjord, a small arm of the Hjørundfjord. Along the way, we discovered the village’s small farms and houses. Everything was calm, peaceful, and quiet. The clouds settled like cotton on the mountains and trees.

Despite the threatening weather, the showers started up again. The rest of the visit was spent dodging raindrops, but the village kept its charm. We eventually spotted some unlisted residents: the sheep. They were just as peaceful, grazing in a stunning setting.

Around 1:30 PM, we boarded the last shuttle back to our boat. It was time to head back to Ålesund. We were lucky—the entire return trip was rain-free, and we even got a bit of sunshine. It was gorgeous!

Around 5 PM, we docked in Ålesund. I unloaded our suitcases while my partner got the car. The hotel was just a few minutes away. We parked and discovered our huge room with a view of the harbor. We didn’t linger in the hotel and hurried out to explore the city, taking advantage of a lull in the weather. From the harbor, we got a few views of the city and its surprising Art Nouveau style.



We ended the day with a good beer at Dirty Nelly, a pub with a super fun atmosphere and decor.

We went back to the hotel to eat our sandwiches and turned in early—my inner ear was playing tricks on me, making me feel like I was still on the boat, swaying.

If you want to see more photos and practical info, check it out here: Day 7 - Aboard the Hurtigruten

Thanks for taking a look! See you soon!

Hello everyone! Wishing you all a wonderful year filled with amazing travels and discoveries!

Day 8 - Visit to Ålesund First of all, I wish you all a happy and wonderful New Year—may it bring you lots of happiness. But since a good year for us is one filled with travel, I’m taking you back to Norway, to Ålesund. That’s where we arrived the night before. After a good night’s rest and a really hearty breakfast, we’re enjoying the beautiful sunshine flooding the city. Just a little stroll with no set destination or planned visit—just wandering around.

Next, we head up Mount Aksla to its viewpoint, Fjellstua.



The climb is via a staircase of 418 steps! The ascent starts in a lovely park and continues along the mountainside. The stairs are well-maintained, with benches and platforms spaced regularly along the way.



At the top, we’re rewarded with a stunning view of the city sprawling right into the water.



To head back down, we take a different route than the one we came up. Part of the way is through the forest or surrounded by greenery. Once at the bottom, we reach a part of the city we hadn’t seen yet—with its colorful wooden houses, each more beautiful than the last. We also find a street that reminds us of San Francisco’s Lombard Street, just smaller!



Along the way, we buy some local fruit from a vendor at a small market. By early afternoon, the weather takes a sudden turn. We dash into a Kiwi supermarket to grab some groceries in the pouring rain and under a gloomy sky. The weather doesn’t improve for the rest of the afternoon, keeping us indoors and cutting our sightseeing short. By the end of the day, things calm down a bit, so we head out for a drink before heading back in the rain. A short day today—we’ll make up for it (and then some) tomorrow. We also took the chance to rest up after our very short night on the boat. See you soon!

For more photos and practical info, check it out here: Day 8 - Visit to Ålesund Thanks for stopping by! See you soon!

Hi there! Here’s the next part of the journal.

Day 9 – The Trollstigen Road

This morning, the sky is a light gray. After a good breakfast, we hit the road. Following the train, boat, and city, here’s the start of our road-trip adventure to discover Norway’s extraordinary landscapes. First things first—if you’re planning a trip to Norway too, don’t overpack your itinerary with visits, and plan for shorter drives. For example, on this first day behind the wheel, it took us 7 hours to cover 200 km because there were so many stunning landscapes to see and photograph. Leaving Ålesund this morning, we had no idea we were in for such a visual treat! After a forced detour due to a cycling race, we continue toward Andalsnes.

The rain starts falling again, but that doesn’t stop us from making regular stops to take photos. The landscapes are incredible, and every stop reveals places and views we’ve never seen before. The colors, the greenery, the reflections in the fjords—it’s all truly beautiful, even under a gray sky!



After Andalsnes, we head toward Trollstigen, or the “Trolls’ Ladder.” We’re definitely in troll country—they’re everywhere, from souvenir shops to the road itself! When we arrive at the base of Trollstigen, we’re really disappointed—it’s literally in the clouds, and we can’t even see it. After just a few minutes, though, the clouds start to lift. We decide to stop for a bit and have a picnic while we wait for the road to clear.

We’d spotted a short 2 km hike we were ready to do while waiting, but the clouds end up disappearing completely—off to Trollstigen! We’ll notice this several times during the trip: the weather changes quickly here, and sometimes all it takes is a little patience for the horizon to clear. Trollstigen is a steep road with lots of hairpin turns and a massive waterfall running through it. We stop several times along the way to admire the cascade and the valley views. By the time we reach the top, it’s almost sunny. We park the car in a large (free) parking lot. There are a few souvenir shops and a paved path with stairs leading to platforms overlooking the road.

The view from up here is absolutely breathtaking! This road is truly impressive, and the valley is stunning.



After a quick stop in a shop where we meet the owner—a 22-year-old French guy on a world trip who decided to settle in Norway for a while—we get back on the road. We make several stops along the way to better enjoy and observe the nature, which offers incredible colors.

When we arrive in Linge, we take our very first ferry. The system is well thought out: numbered rows are marked on the ground, and cars line up one after another, filling row 1 first, then row 2, and so on. The boat finally arrives, opens its large “jaws,” and “swallows” us. It drops us off in Eidsdal after a short ten-minute crossing. We continue toward the Geirangerfjord, a UNESCO World Heritage site. We reach it from the Ørnevegen (Eagle Road) coming from the north, which gives us a fantastic view of the fjord. To top it off, the sun is out!

Around 5 PM, we arrive at our host’s place. He’s really nice and speaks French, which makes conversation much easier and lets us ask questions more freely. In the house, shoes are not allowed, so he lends us some sandals—so sexy!

The typical Norwegian house overlooks the fjord, offering an incredible view from the window. We settle in quietly and relax a bit before heading back down to the village.

The large cruise ship that had been anchored in the fjord since our arrival finally leaves, blasting its foghorn—the sound echoes impressively through the fjord. Once again, visiting the country off-season has a clear advantage: there’s almost no one around, so we can really enjoy the village and its small harbor. The serene atmosphere of the place is very appealing. The almost-perfect reflections in the blue-green waters of the fjord are striking.

We eventually head back to our little wooden house. We go outside to sit in the garden and try to take some night photos. We don’t really succeed (we’ll need to practice a bit more!), but it lets us experience the place in near-total darkness and silence, and hear the truly impressive sound of the many waterfalls pouring into the fjord. This day was absolutely amazing—we go to bed with so many beautiful images in our heads!

If you want to see more photos, check them out here: Day 9 – The Trollstigen Road

See you soon!

J10 - Exploring the Geirangerfjord

Woke up at 7:30 AM, took a quick peek out the window… the weather is gorgeous! It’s the first time we’ve had a clear blue sky since we arrived in Norway! We’re savoring our luck: today is all about hiking. We head to the other side of the fjord, to Hom, for the starting point of our first hike. Parking isn’t that easy—the road is narrow, and parking is banned in some spots… we finally find a spot and wonder how it must be in peak season when there are more cars… This hike isn’t as easy as we thought. We start with a steep path with sections on wet, slippery rock. Once we reach the top of this first climb, the view of the Geirangerfjord is absolutely stunning.

We continue our route through the forest. The path is steep, long, and sometimes a bit tricky.

We eventually decide not to finish this first hike, choosing to turn back so we have time for another hike this afternoon. We pass through the village center to grab a few groceries at the supermarket. We take the chance to have a picnic by the fjord. The weather is nice, it’s really pleasant, and we enjoy this lovely moment. From the house where we dropped off our groceries, we set off on foot for the second hike. The path is pleasant and lets us scout the route to the restaurant for tonight. The sky starts to cloud over, but nothing serious.

This 2 km hike, much easier and shorter, is supposed to take us to Storseterfossen, a large waterfall. Along the way, we come across sheep resting while grazing on the grass within reach. We finally hear the loud sound of water, spot the waterfall from a distance… and make out tiny-looking people next to this massive waterfall! It’s impressive to hear and see!!

We’re only on the other side of the fjord, but the landscapes are so different from this morning… here, the area is lush and green—it’s incredible. We descend along the small path carved into the rock, allowing us to go behind the waterfall. The 300-meter waterfall is even more impressive from this side! Time is passing, so we head back down toward the starting point. We don’t take the exact same path as on the way up—bad idea! The path is just as tough as this morning’s, full of mud and very slippery. We finally make it back and return to our host, who makes my partner do some stretches and offers him a pine-scented foot bath! After a good shower, we set off on foot to the restaurant. It’s an old farm with a stunning view of the fjord… another great moment, especially since the food is delicious. We head back as night falls, exhausted from this day of hiking. For practical info and photos, meet up here: J10 - Exploring the Geirangerfjord

Day 11: On the Historic Route 258 After saying goodbye to our host, we hit the road toward Olden, further south. Before leaving, our host strongly recommends taking Route 258 between Grotli and Stryn instead of the tunnel—shorter, sure, but far less interesting. So, we take their advice. The road before Grotli takes us through landscapes that change rapidly. In less than an hour, we find ourselves in lunar-like scenery, very rocky, with stunning gray and green hues. The wind picks up, it’s cold, but we savor our luck to be here, almost alone to enjoy it. Along the way, we stop at the Dalsnibba viewpoint. The road is toll-based, but the view is absolutely worth it. It starts raining, but that doesn’t really spoil the journey, which takes us through extraordinary landscapes.



We descend and continue driving. The scenery shifts as we go, skirting vast stretches of water—wow! We’re loving it! We finally reach Route 258 at Grotli. The road isn’t paved, but it’s so breathtaking that we never feel like speeding—we stop constantly to take in the views and snap photos. We pass lakes with striking turquoise waters, drive through vegetation in equally incredible colors—we’re in paradise! Of course, it starts raining again, but in return, we’re treated to a gorgeous rainbow.



The road is about 20-25 km long, and it takes us 1.5 hours to cover it! Between a picnic stop in the middle of nowhere (magical!) and photo breaks every 5 minutes, we make the most of it! We leave Route 258 to take the main road again and decide to stop once more for photos. We spot sheep in the distance. I slowly approach to take a picture when one of them notices me from afar. It starts walking toward me gently, then picks up the pace until it’s galloping...



I obviously start running, but that animal is fast!! Its friends join in—big scare for me! In the end, they weren’t trying to attack us, just checking if we had any food to give them (but they left empty-hoofed!). There’s just under an hour of driving left, first through a steep valley, then skimming the fjord. By late afternoon, we arrive in Olden, the village where we’ll be staying for the next two nights. We’re a little disappointed to find our campsite right by the road—we were expecting to be in the middle of nowhere... Still, the place is nice, and the view from our room is really not bad at all!



We settle in and start some laundry while enjoying a little apéritif in our room. A quiet end to a day so full of adventure...

More info and photos here: Day 11: On the Historic Route 258

Hello!

Day 12 – Exploring the Glaciers This morning, we wake up facing the fjord, invaded by two enormous cruise ships. We’ve already wondered about taking a cruise someday, but I think this Norwegian experience has made us a bit hesitant (or maybe just on a smaller boat!). After a good breakfast and a few photos of our vacation spot in this perfect setting, we prepare the day’s program.

We plan to explore two glaciers, easily accessible from Olden. These two glacier tongues come from the Jostedalsbreen, Europe’s largest ice cap, covering around 480 km². Off we go! Along the Lodalen Valley, we follow the shore of Lovatnet, a stunning glacial lake with incredible colors (no filter needed on these photos). In the middle of the lake, you can spot a few small “islands” formed by falling rock blocks (some of which have been deadly). The road is sometimes very narrow, making us wonder how it must be in the summer when buses pass each other.

The end of the road leads us to the entrance of Kjenndalsbreen. We pass through a small, unmanned toll booth—the Norwegians must assume people are responsible and honest. At first, we struggle to understand how it works, but it’s actually quite simple: just write your license plate number on the envelope (which has carbon paper so you can keep a copy to place behind your windshield), insert the money, and seal it. The envelope then goes into a box. After parting with 40 kroner, we continue the last stretch of road to a parking lot where we leave our car.

After a short walk at the foot of the glacier (it’s too high for us to reach), we turn back (the glacier is a dead end). Everything is closed—the tourist season has just ended, and there’s no one around except a few employees from what seems to be a restaurant/canoe rental spot. We’re a little disappointed because we thought we could rent one—nope, it’s “closed”! We console ourselves with the incredible view, which we decide to admire quietly during our picnic break. We soak in the tranquility, serenity, colors, and fabulous scenery! The water’s color seems so unreal—it’s truly mesmerizing!



We head back through Olden to go a bit further south and reach another arm of the glacier: Briksdalsbreen. In just an hour’s drive, the landscapes change completely compared to this morning—it’s amazing!

We leave the car in the designated parking lot, which is also paid. At the start, there are two paths: one for pedestrians, the other for “troll cars.” We set off on foot to reach the glacier. This time, we’re not alone—there are a few other tourists, some on foot like us, others in groups in the famous “troll cars.” The path is well-marked; we won’t get lost here… unless we foolishly follow a sign at a crossroads, thinking it’s the way to the glacier. Off we go on a hike—flat but a bit muddy at first, then through a dense forest with rough terrain, fallen trees, rocks, and all the rest. We finally emerge from the forest onto a huge, steep rock. We climb and discover the breathtaking view of the lake and glacier. After a good hour of climbing, we realize we’re not actually getting closer to the glacier (just going up and away from it), so we turn back. Back at the crossroads, we take the right path this time, not giving up, and set off to (hopefully!) discover the glacier. The valley is lush and green, covered in grass and filled with trees—it’s an impressive setting. This time, we make it all the way! The sight was absolutely worth seeing up close, and all our afternoon efforts are rewarded the minute we reach the edge of the lake. There’s only one family there, like us, enjoying the view and taking souvenir photos.

On the way back, we take advantage of the nearly empty path to snap some photos of the enormous waterfall from below. We learn that 10,000 liters of water fall every second—yikes! We return to Olden after a quick stop for supplies on the way. Another truly beautiful day, with colors we’d never seen in real life before!

For practical info and photos, check it out here: Day 12 – Exploring the Glaciers

Day 13 – On Europe’s Highest Mountain Road

We woke up at dawn this morning—we’ve got a long drive ahead and plenty of beautiful sights to discover (though we don’t know that yet). We backtracked and took the tunnel we’d skipped a few days ago, opting instead for the Route 258. After exiting the tunnel, we headed south and, after passing Grotli, continued toward Lom. Along the way, we met some new friends 🐑 and discovered autumn landscapes that reminded us of Canada in places—even though we’ve never actually been there.

We arrived in Lom, which I’d noted on our itinerary for its stave church. Unfortunately, we saw a sign and a group of people outside, letting us know the church was closed for a funeral. It wouldn’t reopen until 1 PM, so we left disappointed we couldn’t visit.

We took Route 55, or Sognefjellet, Europe’s highest road, built in 1939 by unemployed workers. The first part of the route took us through forests, tiny charming churches, and already offered some lovely viewpoints. But the real highlight came at the top, where snow lined the road and turned the blue/green/yellow landscapes into something like a watercolor painting.



We were incredibly lucky—the sun was gorgeous, letting us soak in the scenery to the fullest. We got out of the car to walk right up to the rocks and water expanses. Everything was stunning, the landscapes breathtaking—we couldn’t get over it! We even took the chance to touch the big snow blocks melting from underneath to feed the lakes.



In Skjolden, we turned off to follow the southern shore of the Lustrafjorden toward Urnes. This narrow little road with unlit tunnels was a bit tiring, especially since we’d gotten up so early. We stopped along the way for a quick nap before continuing, refreshed.

Urnes is a tiny village known for its own stave church. Though it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site, the entry fee seemed a bit steep, so we decided to just walk around it—oh well, no inside visit! As we stepped back, we realized how beautiful the setting was: a nearly black church standing out against a gorgeous green and turquoise backdrop.

We headed to the Urnes ferry dock to catch the boat to Solvorn, just across the Lustrafjord. We missed one ferry by minutes, but no rush—we had time to wait for the next.

There was a little hut with trays of fruit for sale, self-service style. A sign listed the prices, and a small metal box was ready for coins—we couldn’t believe our eyes! We grabbed a little tray of plums to use as a cheap snack and dessert for the next few days.

The ferry came back, and we got ready to board. This time, it was a bit unusual—we backed into the boat! Naturally, first on meant last off (not a big deal, since there were only five cars!).

Arriving in Solvorn was amazing—the village, though small, looked really charming from here.

Tonight, we’re staying here. We found our accommodation quickly in this tiny village. The guesthouse is at the top of the orchard cultivated by our hosts. They’re super nice, the house is really cozy, and we feel right at home! The window in our room looks out over the fjord and the village—it’s gorgeous!

We settled in quickly and wandered around the village.

Back at the house, with a stunning view of the fjord.

We met a young French couple and chatted with them for a bit before getting dinner ready. Today was packed again, and Route 55 is one of my best memories from this trip!

For practical info and all the photos, check it out here: Day 13 – On Europe’s Highest Mountain Road

Thanks for reading! 😉

Hi Minibou,

I’m still following your travel journal with great pleasure! 🙂

And I’m discovering spots we hadn’t been to that are absolutely stunning, like Kjenndalsbreen. It’s certain—I’ll have to go back to Norway because the landscapes there are extraordinary. I especially hope to return to the Lofoten Islands. If you’re planning another trip to Norway in the coming years, make sure to include them in your itinerary—the scenery there is among the most beautiful I’ve seen so far.

Looking forward to the next update! [;]

Thanks so much for your message!! 🙂 Yes, we’re planning to visit Norway again, including the Lofoten Islands, during the northern lights season. We were thinking of going in October, but apparently, that’s the worst time weather-wise... We’ll have to think about another time!

Hello again! I'm back with the next installment! Day 14: Another day among the glaciers

This morning, the glaciers are waiting for us! The view of the fjord from the living room is still just as breathtaking—we take the time to enjoy a peaceful breakfast with this extraordinary view. I booked a glacier hike on Nigardsbreen a few days earlier. So, we hit the road toward the Visitor Center. There’s a bit of mist, the sky is gray, but it’s not bothersome and even adds a mysterious touch that we really like.

We arrive at the Breheimsenteret, the glacier’s visitor center. It has a funny helmet-like shape that we love. The employee tells us we’re late and need to hurry so we don’t miss our group—what?! We thought we were on time... He informs us there’s still a ten-minute drive to the glacier parking lot, then about a 45-minute walk to the foot of the glacier.

When we arrive at the parking lot, we don’t see anyone or anything, but we spot a group that’s already started the hike to reach the foot of the glacier. We rush to catch up, thinking we’re really late. In 35 minutes, we reach them—but the guide tells us it’s not our group, that the meet-up spot is at the parking lot, and that he can’t help us because all the equipment is in a cabin there—no!!! What a letdown! It’s clearly stated on the website and the ticket that the parking lot is the meet-up spot, but the visitor center employee misled us, and with the stress of not seeing anyone there, we started the hike when we should’ve waited for our guide. We take a moment to recover from the disappointment, regain some energy (after a tiring, fast-paced hike over rocks!!), and still enjoy the magnificent scenery.

Once again, the colors are extraordinary, and there are very few people, which lets us fully soak in the place. Seeing the glacier up close is still incredibly impressive—it’s a real feast for the eyes. Disappointed, we eventually head back down to our car. We need to do some shopping and fill up the gas tank. We decide to check out the Styggevatnet dam, located further north. We cross beautiful valleys and arrive in front of an enormous wall of rocks—impressive!

On the way back, we take the time to visit the Kaupanger Stave Church. It’s closed, but the view from the outside is really nice.

To "drown" our disappointment, we have a little apéritif in the B&B’s lounge before eating and going to bed with beautiful memories, despite everything.

Thanks for reading! Link to our blog: Day 14: Another day among the glaciers

See you soon!

Hi Minibou,

I’ve been following your travel journal from the start but only now have the time to leave you a message. 😊 Your photos are really great, and your story is super nice.

Hi Bluequark,

Thanks so much for taking the time to leave me a little note. It really made my day! And thank you for my photos/my travel journal! To be honest, it’s pretty easy in front of such wonders 🙂

Thanks again😉

Day 15 – On the Snow Road

We're off again for another day!

Early start today—it’s a driving day. We reluctantly leave our accommodation and our hosts… we could’ve happily stayed a few more days to rest!! We soon reach a long tunnel that ends in a dual carriageway leading straight to the ferry dock! We take our last ferry of the trip at Mannheller. It’s a big boat, with two decks for cars, a lounge, and somewhere to grab a coffee… though we don’t really get to enjoy it, as the crossing is pretty quick (about half an hour). We head toward Borgund, which we reach 40 minutes later. Along the way, we find ourselves deep in small valleys, following river branches—a unique feeling! We arrive in Borgund to visit another stave church. From a distance, the exterior looks really unusual, like a burnt wooden model. Before starting the tour, disaster strikes: my camera battery is dead!!! We try everything and ask the info center if we can leave the battery to charge while we visit. They kindly agree… phew! Saved!! We begin the visit at the information center, where the construction principles of these churches are explained. Then we head outside to see the church itself.



The burnt-wood look is actually due to tar covering and protecting the wood. The inside of the church is tiny, very dark, and unfurnished, but you really get a sense of the building’s unique construction. This church is one of only 28 left out of the 1,000 built in the country. We feel lucky to experience it. We take our time with the visit to let the battery charge a bit. Plus, the place and the tour are really enjoyable. There aren’t too many people, which makes the moment even nicer. We leave this charming church and its pretty cemetery to backtrack a little and head toward the Snow Road (Aurlandsfjellet) in Lærdal. We start by driving through woods, then find ourselves higher up with a stunning view of the trees dressed in autumn colors. Finally, we reach a barren, rocky plateau, partly covered in snow. Unfortunately, the rain starts pouring, and the fog rolls in, forcing us to stop for a while. We take the time to eat in the car, waiting for the rain to ease and visibility to improve. The weather eventually gets a little better, and we hit the road again. Even if the conditions aren’t ideal, the views are still breathtaking!



We stop at the famous Stegastein Point, a wooden structure jutting out over a fjord arm. The effect is incredible! For even more “thrills,” head to the restrooms (yes, really—the restrooms!) where a large picture window offers an amazing view of the fjord… pretty surprising!



We begin the descent with plenty of hairpin turns to reach Flåm. We’re honestly disappointed by this village. We expected something incredible, but instead, there are buses in the parking lot and people everywhere… we didn’t really connect with it, which is a shame because the area has potential!! After a quick photo stop, we’re back on the road toward our final destination: our hotel! But not just any hotel—this is the “splurge” hotel of the trip! We’ve had a little tradition for our summer vacations for a few years now: we treat ourselves to one night in an extraordinary hotel. Last year, we stayed in a beautiful hotel in the Douro Valley in Portugal, and the year before, it was a crazy hotel in Las Vegas… so this year, I found us a hotel straight out of Stephen King’s *The Shining* (but way less scary!!). The exterior isn’t much to look at, but the inside is absolutely stunning, and the view is amazing! We discover our room with a view of a rock that reminds us of El Capitan in Yosemite. The room’s decor takes us back in time! The hotel lounge is also jaw-dropping, blending old and modern. And the park around the hotel is just as impressive, offering incredible views of the surrounding mountains and the steep valley.



After enjoying the park, we head back up to shower, though the hot water takes a while to arrive (it has to travel through the whole hotel to reach our room—old-school style!!). We grab a drink at the bar before heading to the restaurant (the buffet is a bit disappointing, though). Later in the evening, we relax in the lounge before calling it a night. All in all, today was pretty relaxing—some driving, but not too much, so we could take our time and go at our own pace. We discovered more beautiful viewpoints, even if the Snow Road crossing was unfortunately a bit ruined by the bad weather.

For more details, check it out here: Day 15 – On the Snow Road Thanks for reading! See you soon for the next (and nearly final) part of the adventure!

Day 16: Heading South

Hello! When we woke up, we could see the sky was gray and overcast from our window. Eventually, the low clouds cleared just in time for us to get up and head down for breakfast. Today, we don’t have much driving to do—we need to rest up for tomorrow. So, we take our time and leave the hotel around 11 AM. We stop along the way in a village to pick up a few supplies since tomorrow’s big hike means we won’t have a chance to shop. It’s Sunday, so the store is only half-open (just a tiny section accessible, the rest blocked off by a gate—how odd!). The drive is still gorgeous, winding through rivers, forests, and plains. We go through another roundabout—this one’s really unusual…

… there’s a roundabout *inside* it!!! Un-be-lievable!!! We’d never seen anything like it before—it’s such a weird effect! We come across a massive suspension bridge—so impressive!

Nothing’s on the schedule, so we enjoy the drive and make a few stops. We decide to check out a huge waterfall called Voringfossen, which is actually a collection of several falls. It’s truly breathtaking. A paved path leads to different viewpoints so you can really take in the scenery.

Next to the parking lot, there’s a restaurant open and picnic tables outside. We grab a bite—me, a sandwich, and my husband, a huge bowl of salmon soup with a slice of bread he bought from the restaurant. We hit the road again and spot quite a few orchards along the way. Every now and then, we see little roadside huts selling fruit—honor-system style! We arrive in Odda in the late afternoon and decide to scout out the parking spot for tomorrow’s hike so we’re not caught off guard or waste time looking for it. The nerves are starting to kick in a little… this hike is *the* hike, and we’re hoping we’re prepared enough. We see people coming back down, looking completely wiped out—definitely not reassuring! After scouting, we head to our hotel, just 20 minutes from the parking lot. The staff gives us tons of tips for tomorrow (so nice!) and upgrades us: we get a huge room with a big bathtub and a balcony overlooking the fjord—amazing! The sun’s back out, and it’s perfect. We explore this little town, which seems to have had a big industrial past but now looks a bit abandoned. The town itself is super cute with its colorful facades, and we really like it.



In the center, there’s a big playground with games for kids (though we adults had fun with them too!). We go back to eat on our terrace with the incredible view and prep sandwiches for tomorrow. We’re psyched up, a little anxious, but ready! Tonight, early bedtime—we’re getting up super early, and it’s going to be a long day! See you soon for the next part of the adventure.

For more photos and useful tips, check it out here: Day 16: Heading South Thanks for taking a look!

Day 17: Hiking Trolltunga

The adventure continues with a pretty intense day ahead of us. 5:30 AM: wake-up



6:00 AM: breakfast 6:30 AM: hit the road by car 7:00 AM: we’re in front of the sign marking the start of the hike—only 11 km, it says! We left the car at the highest parking lot. The machine to pay for our spot isn’t working, so we decide not to waste time and leave a note on the windshield saying we’ll pay when we get back tonight. But 11 km for what? To end up at Trolltunga! This 22 km round-trip hike (11 km each way) with a 950 m elevation gain is a real challenge for us since we haven’t done much exercise lately. Like the morning of an exam, we set off a little (okay, a lot) stressed. We’re not alone—plenty of other hikers are taking on this incredible challenge too. The weather’s nice, no rain, which is absolutely essential because the first kilometer is steep (450 m elevation gain in the first 1000 m), and we have to climb over rocks. Some spots are slippery and would’ve been downright dangerous in the rain. The climb is pretty brutal—we’re sweating, but we’re not the only ones struggling! Then we reach a slightly flatter part of the trail. The sun rises over the mountains—gorgeous!



At the 3rd kilometer, it’s back to a massive climb—tough, but we push through! We keep moving and slowly see the kilometer markers counting down the remaining distance. The kilometers pass, and we feel like we’ve landed on Mars. The landscapes are super rocky, and the snow-capped peaks in the distance add to the beauty of the place. The night before, the hotel employee told us to bring water but not to overpack since we’d find some along the way—but we forgot to ask how we were supposed to find it. Of course, no faucets, no huts, nothing to refill our slowly emptying bottles. After 4 hours and 15 minutes, we finally reach the end of the 11 km trail and discover the famous Trolltunga!!!! What a relief and what a joy to have made it!!! A few groups are already there—it’s really impressive—and a little stressful to see people lining up to get their shot on that rock over the void! We take our place in the small queue and manage to get our photo pretty quickly. We timed it well because after eating a sandwich, the line got *a lot* longer!

Up there, the wind is freezing, and the picnic is chilly, but the sun is absolutely stunning. We finally start the descent after an hour and a half break. The water problem is quickly solved—we refill our bottles from natural springs flowing down the rocks. The water’s good and refreshing, which is great! We start to really feel the kilometers with a few energy dips, and some parts are done in silence. But the beauty of the landscapes keeps us going.

The last kilometer is just like the first—vertigo-inducing! We descend from rock to rock, and our joints take a beating. But we finally make it back at 5:30 PM after 10 hours and 30 minutes of hiking (9 hours of actual walking)—we’re exhausted but so proud of ourselves!!! We pay for the parking at the shop, stretch, clean our muddy shoes, and head back to the hotel. After a well-deserved shower, we treat ourselves to a little bar/snack restaurant. It’s not gourmet, but it’s good enough to feel like we’ve earned it after such an amazing day! We’re sore all over and fall asleep like babies by 9:30 PM! WE DID IT!!!

For photos and info on Trolltunga: Day 17 - Hiking Trolltunga Thanks for stopping by!

Finale... Day 18 - Under the Sun in Bergen

Hi there! After yesterday’s big day, we slept like babies. This morning, we take our time and leave Odda around 9:30 AM. The weather is gorgeous—the sun decided to show up and treat us to a beautiful day.

We drive along the fjords and pass through villages where fruit farming is well-developed. We spot those famous little huts with self-service fruit stands by the roadside. We finally arrive in Bergen around noon. We drop off our bags at the hotel (a chain hotel with no charm, chosen for its proximity to the bus station) and head to fill up the gas tank before returning the car. The guy asks if we want to check the car together or if he’ll do it alone later… No way! We check the car right away together (and we’re glad we didn’t let him do it alone…). He inspects the car *super* carefully (unlike when we picked it up, when we were alone, as usual), making sure the doors don’t have the slightest scratch, running his hand under the bumper and over the windshield… O_O Just as we’re about to give up and leave, he finally finds a tiny scratch on the windshield. Of course, since we didn’t hit any gravel during our trip, we’re sure the scratch was already there but we just didn’t see/feel it (it was raining the day we picked up the car, and we weren’t sneaky enough to run our hands over the windshield). We explain all this and leave with a bit of stress and uncertainty about how much we might be charged… In the end, we didn’t have to pay anything, but it was a good lesson for future rentals (always run your hand under the car and over the windows!!). We take the tram (less than a 5-minute walk away) back to the city center. Our trip is coming to an end—we’re heading home tomorrow. So, we scope out where to buy bus tickets to the airport before wandering around town… Turns out, we have to go to the tourist office by the harbor to buy the tickets (though apparently, you can also buy them on the spot from a vendor the same day?). Off we go! The weather is incredible—so different from what we had just a few days ago. It’s 24°C (75°F) and we’re in T-shirts!

We revisit the harbor and Bryggen, which we’d seen under gray skies before—it’s so much prettier in the sun, no denying it!

After this super pleasant stroll, we head back to the hotel to pack for tomorrow before going out for one last Norwegian meal. We’re lucky—they seat us right away. The restaurant is small and super warm, but the food is excellent (and the bill steep, as usual in this country!).

We enjoy this last evening wandering around the harbor before heading back to bed.



The next morning, we head to the bus station with our tickets bought the day before at the tourist office. We board the bus to the airport. And we take off to head home, with tons of memories in our heads, photos on our camera, and the feeling of having had an unforgettable trip. Thanks for following along patiently throughout this story, which started 7 months ago. Since Norway, we’ve been to Berlin earlier this year and are lucky enough to be leaving again soon for a completely different destination… and to fulfill an old dream. To see all the photos and details, check it out here: Day 18 - Under the Sun in Bergen

A special thanks to everyone who helped me plan my itinerary, especially Sarnia, who saved me money by suggesting we take the car on the ferry with us (and avoided one-way fees!).

See you soon!

Love your story! I read it quietly as you posted. I really like how you edited your photos.

Hello and thank you. Thank you so much for this second message—it really means a lot to me! A travel journal is a long-term project, but finishing it is such a joy! 😉 I hope to start the next one on Berlin soon... but I'm already behind—we're leaving again soon!!! 😏

Have a great evening

Thanks for these great moments of sharing that brought back such wonderful memories of this beautiful country.

Thanks so much for taking the time to leave me this message—it really made my day! Definitely a gorgeous country... we’ll be back someday for sure!

Berlin! Can't wait! We loved it so much.

Even though it’s not our favorite city, we really liked Berlin too. Especially since it snowed while we were there—since we’re not used to that kind of weather back home, it felt a little surreal! It was amazing! !

With snow, I don’t know. I’m even more excited for the photos now.

We feel the same way, so we’re just as excited! :)

Thanks so much for your enthusiasm!! The photos are still being processed... I hope to finish them quickly before the next departure!!

I just read this fascinating account of Norway. Thanks for sharing your discoveries of these beautiful places, complete with gorgeous photos. Looking forward to reading more from you!

A huge thank you for this message. We’re so lucky to have had the means and opportunity to take this trip. This country is stunning. Thanks for taking the time to read my post! 😉

Hi there, Since I’m planning a trip to Norway, I’ve got two questions I couldn’t find answers to in the journal—unless I missed them: - I didn’t see the dates of your trip (it’s important for the weather). What were they? - What’s the name of the "budget-splurge" hotel, and was it worth it?

Hi, For the dates, the first sentence of the journal says it was in September. We’re heading to Tromsø in March and to the western fjords in mid-July—I’m rereading all the travel journals right now.

Hi, Your message ended up in my spam folder—I just saw it by chance! We went in September... 8 years ago already!! 🤪

The hotel was the Stalheim Hotel. I’ve forgotten some of the details over time, but I remember it as a charming, secluded place where we had an extraordinary life. I noted on our travel blog that the hotel buffet was a bit disappointing. That was 8 years ago, though—it may have changed since then.

This trip was absolutely amazing, and now I dream of visiting the Lofoten Islands! !

Hello, We went to Norway in 2022, and I’d read several travel journals and blogs to prepare for our trip, but I’d missed yours... catching up this morning! 😉

The photos are absolutely stunning despite the bad weather (I obviously checked out the extra photos on your blog). Speaking of bad weather, I thought we’d had a lot of rain, but I think you had even more! !😄

When planning the trip, we also hesitated between the south and the north (didn’t want to skip the Lofoten Islands either) and ultimately decided to do it all! Given the cost of a trip there (similar to or even more expensive than our previous trips to the United States), we figured it might be our only trip to Norway and that we’d do both... but now we’re certain we’ll go back!

If you ever return to Åndalsnes, consider the hike to Rampestreken: the view from the top is amazing! Trolltunga was a challenge for me too (less so for my husband and kids, who are athletic), and I was proud to have made it (especially since I’ve had knee problems for a few years and wasn’t sure if it would hold up). We also left our car at the highest parking lot, but in 2022, you had to book the parking spot several weeks in advance (unless that was only during the summer months?).

Thanks again for sharing! !