Back from 3 weeks in Morocco in April

We just spent a little over 3 weeks in Morocco. Three weeks on the road starting from Marrakech in a rental Logan. We decided to split this trip into 3 highlights: the seaside first, a week in Aourir north of Agadir, Aït Baha and Tafraoute for another week, then a week in the Skoura palm grove followed by 3 days in Marrakech before heading back.

When we arrived, we were surprised by the temperatures—much higher than in previous years—and we were amazed by the quantities of flowers we saw throughout our journey. Moroccans explained that they had a lot of rain this winter, beneficial water, not the kind that destroys everything in its path.

First stop: AOURIR. Staying at Bab Aourir, we were able to explore the area. A great discovery this year: the Assif El Had cave, beyond Imouzzer. A beautiful road to get there. Absolute tranquility once you're inside. A lovely spot for a picnic by the *séquia* (irrigation channel) at the cave’s entrance.

I couldn’t resist sharing the light well that illuminates the inside of the cave. Gorgeous. After this lovely break, we head back down quietly to the seaside, admiring the beautiful villages on the mountainside along the way.

We’re happy to be back in the comfort of our little apartment. After a day spent outdoors, it’s nice to come home.



Another beautiful walk: the Honey Valley and Paradise Valley. It’s always a pleasure. Stopping to enjoy the little natural pools, watching the beekeepers at work for a few moments, strolling through the gardens of paradise. Pure bliss.







The next day, it’s beach and swimming—the sun is beating down hard, so we stay well in the shade under the umbrella. Essential.

After this day dedicated to relaxation, we decide to climb up to the heights of Taghazout. We overlook the entire Taghazout Bay.



We share these magical moments with a villager who’s looking after his few goats. Fearless, they climb the argan trees while the little donkey enjoys himself, unaware of how lucky he is to live in such a place.





Another return, and we enjoy the sea a bit more. The village of Taghazout is gradually turning blue.



The Aourir souk on Wednesdays is full of color and activity. It’s the weekly meet-up for people in the region, and it lasts all day. Grilled meal at Bustro. Nice.

A quick trip to Agadir, a walk along the seafront. And that wraps up the first leg of this trip. Off to Aït Baha.

The goal of the day was to visit the granary of Inoumar. Thanks to Michel Terrier’s precise directions, we finally tracked it down. At the end of a dirt track surrounded by barley fields and a few argan trees, we arrived in a small village. There, we met a group of French tourists with their guide and joined them for the visit. Really nice, super nice. The granary only comes into view at the very last moment—it overlooks the wadi below, which may or may not be flowing. It’s stunning.









Between the old village and the granary, you can see numerous cisterns that collect runoff water. Some are full, some stand alone, and others are lined up in a row.

That evening, we stopped in Aït Baha. The next morning, we set off toward Tafraoute.

After a good night's rest, we went to buy our pastries, guided to the bakery by the little vegetable vendor on the corner of the street. Two croissants and two pains au chocolat, 6 MAD. Then we got two "cassés" coffees at the bar, 16 MAD for both. And there you have it—an excellent breakfast.

Ready to tackle the mountain road to Tafraoute... And wow, the whole way there, we were blown away by the views.









The harvest has already begun. It’s breathtakingly beautiful. We’re slowly approaching Tafraoute, one of our favorite spots in Morocco.

The lion still watches over the Ameln Valley. We settled in at L'Arguenier des Amelnes—always such a warm welcome, and the pool is calling our name. Perfect.

Very quiet night—we were worried about the late arrival of a group of 17 participants in a 205 rally. But they "forgot" to show up. ...Majid was disappointed; they waited for them until 3 AM. ...We, on the other hand, slept well. We had our breakfast with msemen, amlou, honey, jam, butter, fresh bread, good mint tea, and coffee.... Everything you need. ...They’d even prepared for the 17 no-shows...

Then, with our picnic, we headed to the painted rocks and took the track to the village of Aday.





Another day, a few laps in the pool and dinner awaited us. The food was still excellent.

The next day was souk day—Wednesday. The souk had moved, but it was still right in the city and hadn’t lost any of its charm.





We bought sfenj for an afternoon snack and took a little break on a terrace in Tangier to soak in the street scene before browsing the shops downtown. Then it was back to the tranquility of our little hostel.



The next day, we went for a walk around the city, through the palm grove, discovering the typical house facades of Tafraoute.







We couldn’t resist the temptation to head out for the umpteenth time on a hike through the Aït Mansour valley and then make our way to the earthen village of Gdour, a village slowly crumbling away, year after year.

A long hike through the villages of the Ameln Valley—all a bit alike, yet each one different—and we left Tafraoute for new horizons.

At daybreak, we're woken up by a cacophony of birds chirping. It doesn't last long, but it's extraordinarily intense. Right after breakfast, we head toward Igherm. The road is magnificent.



Imouane with its granary at the top of the village.



And it's still just as blooming.



The road goes up and down, we cross and re-cross the Tata riverbed. The route often follows the riverbeds, which were the first communication routes used by nomads since time immemorial.



Impressive folds in the landscape.



Beautiful scenes of life. Real paintings.







And always flowers.

But it's stunning! The many splendors of Morocco. I can't get over it, even though I know it a little. But your photos are gorgeous. Well done! I'm looking forward to the rest, of course.

I'm leaving Thursday, same itinerary, and we have the same canteen in Tafraoute 😎😎 See you soon, and thanks for the photos. Hannah

Have a great trip and see you soon on the forum.

Thanks for this little glimpse of Morocco in the spring. It's a pleasure to read and a feast for the eyes. Great job on the photos.

Thanks Daniel for all these colors—there was rain, and that’s great for them!

Yes, Morocco was stunning this year. And our stop in Skoura won’t be outdone by the previous ones. We arrived in the evening at the guesthouse Kasbah La Palmeraie, where we reunited with Mohamed, Ghizlane, and their little family. We settled on the terrace to enjoy the view of the palm grove and the Atlas Mountains. The very next day, Mohamed took us through the palm grove, all the way to the other end. The palm trees were in bloom. Male and female flowers are different, and it’s human hands that step in for pollination, which doesn’t happen naturally.

Female flowers

Male flowers.

The first pomegranate blossoms are starting to appear. The roses scent the paths.



Water is always present to irrigate the gardens in the shade of the majestic kasbahs.





Back at the guesthouse to read, comfortably settled on the terrace.

Some travel journals really stand out 🙂 You know a little, you're familiar with a bit, but you still get drawn into this calm and peaceful narrative, these soothing walks where you take your time, and those lovely photos that bring it all together.

The next day, just like at Aït Mansour, for the umpteenth time, we couldn’t resist the call of the almond tree valley. It’s so close and it’s amazing. Plus, in April, entire mountainsides are in bloom. After breakfast and the delicious honey pancakes prepared by Ghizlane, we buy our picnic and slowly make our way into the almond tree valley. Reeds and wood dry by the roadside, just like the cut grass to feed the animals.



You might think it had snowed on the way out of Toundoute, but not at all—it’s salt rising to the surface.



A water point in the middle of nowhere, and we share a moment with the shepherd who came to water his animals. He poses for the photo. Nice guy.



We continue our journey toward the end of the valley. We follow or cross giant wadis. It’s breathtakingly beautiful.



Then, below the road, a collective beehive that’s a bit worn but still seems active. Just behind it, a small marabout perfectly blended in—you barely notice it. And more wadis, the mountain...



At lunchtime, comfortably settled in the shade of the olive trees, we thought we were alone in this little paradise. Well, not at all—suddenly, we heard bleating behind us. A flock of sheep and goats was arriving in the wadi and about to climb the mountain. And they did it in no time. The experienced shepherd had taken a shortcut and reached the mountaintop at the same time as his animals. Impressive.



And everywhere, flowers, beehives... It’s spring.





We go all the way to the end of the valley, to the village of Cantola. We park the car and go for a walk in the gardens above the village. Here too, water flows through the *séguias* and generously irrigates the cultivated plots. Everything is calm and serene.





A pace of life that leaves you dreaming.

What a magnificent day,

So there are female palm trees and male palm trees?

Kate is right! What serenity in the story and the trip. It's the discovery of places that aren't unfamiliar to me, yet.

Thanks for sharing all these great moments with all of us. It’s a real pleasure.

Yes, that's what I remembered—palm trees are either male or female. But they're not the only trees like that.

Monday, market day, the hustle and bustle is in full swing in Skoura. Traffic isn’t easy on the main street, especially in the morning. Luckily, on foot, you get there quickly.

Everyone sells what they have or repairs what they can.









And everyone has their own mode of transport.



Before leaving the market, we treated ourselves to a mint tea at one of the little eateries in the souk—a delicious tea. A truly extraordinary place where anyone can bring their own tea, sugar, meat, or vegetables and only buy the charcoal. We loved this moment and the atmosphere of kindness, serenity, and sharing that reigned there.

Yes, that's what I remembered—palm trees are either male or female. But they're not the only trees like that.

Okay, it's a bit like papayas in Guadeloupe. Over there, they call someone who doesn’t do much with their ten fingers—a non-productive person—a "papayer," like the male papaya tree. And yeah, you’ve gotta laugh a little...

The palm trees in bloom—I haven’t seen that yet, but it’s gorgeous. And thanks for all the info that goes with the photos. It’s really interesting.

I'm glad you like it. That's great. That's the goal... As for me, I'm also enjoying reliving this trip that truly dazzled us. Such a green, flower-filled Morocco—we hadn't seen that before. And it bodes well for slightly easier days ahead for the population. This year, there will be olives, almonds, grains, vegetables, honey...

Yes, that's what I remembered—palm trees are either male or female. But they're not the only trees like that.

Hi there, Like many things in nature, there are indeed males and females, so the male has to fertilize the female. And for palm trees, that’s where human hands come in! ;) Here are the male seeds that are implanted into the female

To me, it’s a bit like grafting! This "graft" is connected to the "lady," and they’re forced to "love" each other because they’re tied together... Here are the photos I took in Merzouga... Given my flexibility, I couldn’t climb the tree :P It reminds me of vanilla, which also needs human help to be fertilized... Otherwise, for many plants, bees do the job—let’s take care of them because they’re disappearing! Have a great day! francia

Yes, that's what I remembered—palm trees are either male or female. But they're not the only trees like that.

Right, it's a bit like papayas in Guadeloupe. Over there, they call someone who doesn’t do much with their ten fingers—a lazy person—a "papayer," like the male papaya tree. And yeah, you’ve gotta laugh a little...

That’s Guadeloupean humor for you. Kudos to them.

The next day after breakfast on the terrace under the pergola, the children of the house come to fetch us to pick roses from the garden. We’ll put them in a little basket to scent the living room.



In the morning, a group of musicians arrives, going from house to house to play a tune and earn a living. Mohamed explains that they’re descendants of the Abids, Black slaves who, once freed but owning neither house nor land, traveled from town to town and house to house to make a living. Fascinating.



In the afternoon, with friends who came to join us for a few days, we visit a kasbah. From the terrace, we overlook the palm grove and the wadis, and discover the riad that welcomed guests...







We head back leisurely, strolling through the palm grove.







And we settle in the garden under the tent to share some tea. The orange trees in the garden surprise us—they still have fruit but already blossoms. And what a scent!

I’m learning so many interesting things from your holiday report. It’s great—thanks! And I can’t wait for the next part, if there is one.

The next day, with our friends and their kids, it'll be "beach" and swimming in the Dadès River, at Sidi Flah—a charming little oasis about 7 or 8 kilometers from Skoura. It's peaceful, and we'll be the only vacationers there. But for the first time since I've been crisscrossing Morocco in all directions, I'm going to see Moroccans fishing with rods in the river. The oleanders are in bloom, as are the pomegranate trees, just like the prickly pears, and even though it's not very deep, everyone has fun and cools off.







We take a little stroll through the gardens. The almonds are already a good size. Everything grows here—water is always present, no matter the season.







When we made our way back to our cars by the roadside, dozens of Barbary ground squirrels were jumping from rock to rock, looking for food, playing hide-and-seek. Quite a show, but not easy to photograph.



Back at the guesthouse, the kids join other children to discover the secrets of pottery. They'll come back thrilled to have tried their hand at being potters. And in the evening, surprise—Ghizlane prepared a huge birthday cake to celebrate the 7th birthday of one of their little potter friends. And "Happy Birthday" will be sung in just about every language. Or almost. Isn't life beautiful?

Oh, life is so beautiful! Thanks for sharing these photos.... can't wait for September, I'm going back (well, back there: to Morocco 😊).

We’re going in October... hopefully.

Thanks for this trip. April really is the best season to enjoy the full palette of colors in Morocco. Yeah, it was so lush and blooming that we’ve never had such bad allergies this spring (we were in Marrakech at the same time as your trip, and this has been going on for 26 years!)

Everyone sells what they have or fixes what they can.

That’s so true...

Thanks!

hi Daniel it’s been over 20 years that I’ve been traveling this country, and I still haven’t discovered this Sidi Flah oasis 😕 oh well, guess I’ll just have to go back !😏 have a great weekend francia

We also have great memories of Sidi Flah. And it's close to Skoura. It's an outing you can do in half a day.

I didn’t know about this either

https://youtu.be/AFP6gEA8y04

Gotta check it out :)

Lovely slideshow. Photos are totally true to my memories. It was with Mohamed from the Palmeraie guesthouse that we took this walk.

Thanks Béatrice for these photos of Sidi Flah. Lovely destination.

What beautiful images of Morocco you’ve shared in this travel journal. On the eve of our two-week trip to explore the oases and Atlas Mountains, we’re dreaming of coming back with photos just as stunning.

hi Jean is it a dirt track or tarmac to get there? thanks francia

It’s a track, but an easy one in good condition. It’s about 8-9 km from the center of Skoura.

thanks Jean hope you're having a great Sunday! France

Yes, I can confirm it’s easy to get to Sidi Flah by the track. It’s really pretty and very peaceful. But we didn’t go for a swim.

In April, the water was higher in the Dadès, so swimming was more pleasant.

The souk in Skoura was supposed to leave the city center and move outside on the road to Sidi Flah. Has this happened yet or not?

We always saw some water at Sidi Flah, but not a lot. It was still really beautiful though.

Yes, I confirm it’s easy to get to Sidi Flah by the track. It’s really pretty and very quiet. But we didn’t go for a swim.

No problem with a rental car? We’ve been warned so much about the tracks.

No problem at all. We rented a Logan and drove there without any issues.

It's an impeccable track that seems like it'll be paved in the near future, as the souk is set to move and relocate along this road. And it's the road to the Bouskour mines.

The next morning, we wake up early—and it’s a good thing because we’ve decided to head to the Valley of the Roses. We set off toward El Kelaa N Gouna with the lightly dusted peaks in the background; it snowed overnight.



We’re still surprised to see so much water in the wadi.



After picking up a few things for our picnic, we head to the Valley of the Roses. The gardens are surrounded by rose hedges, and the harvest isn’t over yet.





At one point, coming out of a bend, we’re surprised to see an entire herd making its way through the wadi. The scenery is stunning, and the sight is magnificent.



The nomads water their animals and leave right after.



In the village of Boutrahar, it’s laundry day. A lively and colorful scene.



And just outside the village, it’s the kingdom of poppies. A feast for the eyes. ...Another one...





We have our picnic at the bottom of the valley by the water, with a view of the small cereal fields. It looks like rice paddies.

On the way back, we stop in front of a crumbling kasbah that still has a proud air about it.



Both people and animals seek shelter from the sun.





The return to Skoura is filled with good spirits. Everyone’s happy to be back in the warm atmosphere of the guesthouse—and to enjoy Ghizlane’s delicious dishes.

hi there it really is a beautiful valley! I was there in April last year too—few tourists but gorgeous vegetation! thanks for the photos! francia