Myanmar as we dreamed it

Hi there, This travel journal is to share our trip to Myanmar in January-February 2017 and relive the experience... Six stops: - the economic capital, Yangon, - the ethnic groups in the east around Kengtong, - Inle Lake - Mandalay - Bagan - the Golden Rock and Bago A trip for two, but organized with a local agency. Flight with Vietnam Airlines (Paris/Ho Chi Minh City/Yangon on the way out, Yangon/Hanoi/Paris on the way back)

First stop, Yangon

At last, we arrive! That moment of excitement and impatience we all know when we land in a country we don’t know but have been dreaming about for a while. Butterflies in our stomachs—not just from the long flight! It’s noon, everything goes smoothly (baggage, immigration, currency exchange, pre-booked taxi, ride to Yangon), and by 2:30 PM we check out of our hotel, tired from the journey but eager to explore the city and power through until evening to beat the jet lag. We’re driven by To-Wen. Traffic is pretty heavy, but strangely, no motorbikes or scooters... To-Wen explains that two-wheelers have been banned in Yangon for several years because they’d become too numerous and caused many injuries and fatalities. To compensate, a very developed public transport system has been put in place. Yangon, or Rangoon, isn’t Myanmar’s administrative capital. The official capital was moved to Naypyidaw in 2005 by government decision—some say to distance themselves from potential popular uprisings. Whatever the reason, it cost a fortune, and no one followed (only civil servants, who were forced to go), not even foreign embassies. This ghost capital makes all the Burmese we spoke to chuckle. Yangon is the economic, cultural, and diplomatic capital, and it’s the most populous city (4.5 million people).

What did we see? Well, first we discovered the Sule Pagoda, a funny concept of a "roundabout pagoda" since it’s right in the middle of a busy intersection! Circular, its outer wall houses many tiny stalls. Then comes the miracle: the hustle and bustle of the street contrasts with the calm inside. You leave a noisy roundabout and suddenly find yourself in another world... flowers and fruit in front of the altars, the scent of jasmine mixed with incense... Actually, this pagoda is very old—it’s said to have been founded in 230 BC to enshrine a hair of the Buddha, but it was in the 15th century that the great zedi (a slender stupa) on top reached its current height of 44 meters (see photos). It’s a symbolic site in the fight for democracy, as it was the rallying point for monk protests in 2007.



Next to the Sule Pagoda is Independence Park, which borders the colonial district (very run-down).



Then we had our first wow moment: the stunning Shwedagon Pagoda (see photos). It’s Myanmar’s most sacred Buddhist sanctuary, drawing crowds of devotees. Its stupa rises to 99 meters, surrounded by dozens of temples and zedis... It’s said that successive rulers have been embellishing and expanding it for over 1,500 years.



Believers gather in the many halls and circle the great golden stupa. Here, we encounter for the first time the incredible "quiet fervor" of the Burmese. A kind, open religiosity that doesn’t make us feel like intruders or nuisances—instead, it makes us want to understand their faith better.



If you go, make sure to be there in the late afternoon: the low rays of the setting sun bathe the site in gold and orange. The zedis glow... and everything becomes surreal.





The sun sets early, so we head back to the hotel around 6:30 PM. Lucky for us, it has a stunning view of Yangon by night from the top floor. We settle in to sip our first vacation cocktail. In the foreground, the shadow of Kandawgyi Lake, and in the background, the illuminated Shwedagon Pagoda, which serves as a landmark for the whole city. (See photo.)

Tomorrow, we fly to Kengtung. We’ll be back in Yangon at the end of our trip to explore more.

Time for bed by 10 PM—we need a restful night to adjust to Myanmar time...

Next post: Kengtung and meeting the local ethnic groups.

Next post: Kengtung and meeting local ethnic groups.

I can tell you in advance that it’s better to talk about a visit to the local ethnic groups.

While we're at it, I'd say "discovery" rather than "encounter" or "visit." Unless you're used to running into Akha, Lahu, and Padaung people when you leave Reims Cathedral... which I doubt, since the last time, a witch came out of it.

Second stop, Kengtung We take a flight to Kengtung, located in Shan State, all the way to the east, practically equidistant from China, Laos, and Thailand (about a 2-hour drive away). We’ll spend 3 days and 3 nights there, which will give us time for two days of trekking in the mountainous hills.



Though it appears to be a quiet large town, Kengtung sits in the Golden Triangle of opium. Officially, the government fights the opium trade, but it continues (I say "officially" because the military junta in power has made money in every possible way). Some areas are simply off-limits to foreigners, while others are accessible only under surveillance and can’t be visited without a guide or without leaving a copy of your passport at a checkpoint (this is the case for the area where we’ll trek on the first day). All of this explains why Kengtung isn’t overrun by tourists—far from it!

We’re guided by Sein, a 25-year-old from the Shan ethnic group. He first shows us around his city, which he loves. Despite having a higher education degree, he chooses to stay in Kengtung while many of his friends have left to work in Thailand for better incomes. We visit two monasteries that look modest but house beautiful wooden statues (Wat Tom Kam and Wat In).





Sein spent a year as a novice in the second monastery when he was 9. He explains how the novitiate fits into children’s education (mostly boys, though there are also monasteries for girls—we’ll see many in Mandalay), what daily life is like for novices, the benefits of the education, but also the hunger that gnawed at him from evening to morning and the melancholy he felt when he had to return to the monastery after visiting his family.



We visit the small local museum at the foot of the monumental Buddha statue overlooking the city. Tip for future visitors: you can skip the museum—the entrance fees are way too high for what’s on display.

In the evening, we head to the municipal stadium, where the "annual Lahu ethnic festival" has set up for two days. The Lahu are one of the ethnic groups in the province. They stand out with their black clothes embroidered with beads and sequins, overlaid with ribbons, and their small shoulder bags adorned with pompoms. What’s the festival about? It’s the annual meet-up for the Lahu, who arrive from the surrounding areas in whole families packed into the back of pickups or more basic vehicles. The stadium is turned into a fairground, with food stalls, games, and Lahu clothing stands. A large stage is set up, seats are installed for spectators, and we get to enjoy two evenings of singing and dancing—some in traditional costumes, others modern. The two hosts are full of energy, especially one of them, who’s a Christian priest. Singers take turns, each performing one or two songs. Oddly, while they sing, people come up to drape garlands around their necks, so by the end of their song, they look like Christmas trees! Then, during their performance, one of the officials sitting on the side of the stage comes up in a very theatrical way to hand them a wad of bills.



We had two great evenings there, fully immersed since this festival isn’t touristy at all (for now). The first night, we were the only two Westerners—kind of the oddities for the kids, but we were warmly welcomed at the stalls. The second night, we ran into two or three other travelers, just as delighted by the atmosphere.

The next morning, we stop by the local market to pick up supplies for our picnic lunch (bread and fruit: bananas and mandarins). Before leaving town, we visit a Chinese temple. It’s the morning of Chinese New Year, celebrated by Kengtung’s entire Chinese community in their temple. Amid the fragrant smoke of incense sticks, a crowd gathers to leave offerings and wishes written on pink or red papers at the altars.







Outside, birds wait in cages to be released while making a wish.



I realize I’m about to exceed the photo limit per post… so the rest—including the Akhas—will be in the next post!

Hi there,

This new travel journal is amazing. It starts off with a bang! Can’t wait for the next part! And don’t hold back on the photos—they’re gorgeous.

Continuation of the 2nd leg (Kengtung): 2 days of trekking

Okay, I say 2 days of trekking, but it’s more like two long half-days: by the time we reach the starting point, it’s around 9:30 AM. On the first day, we walked until 3:30 PM, and on the second day until 2:30 PM, including breaks. But for us, who are pretty sedentary and don’t get enough exercise, it was great! A few details: - The photos you’ll see aren’t stolen. We always asked for permission, and when it came to children, we got the okay from the adults present. - We didn’t pay to visit the villages. However, we did enter homes of families Sein knows (he has his "network" in all the villages he takes visitors to), and in those homes, without it being an obligation at all, I bought a few bracelets, necklaces, or embroideries made by the women there. - Sein speaks the different Akha, Ann, and Palaung dialects. We really liked Sein—he has an extremely gentle and warm way of approaching the villagers, chatting about the latest village news, and sharing jokes. He makes contact easier, even if it’s limited to the usual questions, and it’s often us telling them about our lives, where we’re from, where our country is, if we have kids, if we work in the fields, etc...

First, a few photos to give you an idea of the places. Steep hills with villages scattered here and there.









Many villages aren’t yet connected by roads, but I say "not yet" because we saw quite a few under construction. For now, we reach them via the paths the villagers use—paths that take the most direct route, and let me tell you, the slopes can be tough! Some visitors might see the arrival of roads negatively, as it speeds up changes, but the villagers themselves are eagerly awaiting them. It means, for example, that children can continue their education beyond primary school without having to walk for hours or live elsewhere. Sein tells us he lived in a village until he was 5, and his parents then chose to move to Kengtung so he could continue his studies.

On the first day of trekking, we discovered 4 Akha villages (Hogyin villages). The first was Buddhist, the second animist, and the last two Christian. Except for the animists, who don’t display their faith, the others make it clear right at the village entrance. But coexistence is peaceful, even if the religions don’t mix within the same village. On the second day, we started with another Akha village, then continued to an Ann village, and finally a Palaung village.

Akha Villages



















In these Akha villages, we only saw women, elders, and children—the men were all off doing their daily tasks. On a day-to-day basis, only the older women wear traditional clothing, along with a few middle-aged women. But for festivals, everyone proudly wears their traditional outfits.

Ann Village The Ann are the ethnic group where the constant chewing of betel leaves and areca nuts stains their teeth black. This isn’t visible in the very young women, who have bright white teeth. In the village we visited, all the women, including the very young, were dressed traditionally.









Palaung Village We reached this village by car after the trek. There are still a few traditional houses, but many new, modern ones are under construction (Sein explained that it’s often the children, many of whom work in Thailand, who fund the construction). In this village, only the older women still wear the traditional clothing, recognizable by their wide gold or silver belts.



Wrap-up: We really enjoyed these 2 days of walking. We’re not ethnologists and don’t claim to be—we just wanted to keep our eyes and hearts open to a rapidly changing world, with its pros and cons.

I’ve hit the 20-photo limit again... so before leaving Kengtung, I’ll invite you to check out some shots of the local market in the next post!

Thanks for the encouragement! I see we’ve got quite a few discoveries in common (Namibia, the American West, New York, Berlin… and even the Bardenas!). I’ll check out your travel journals!

While we're at it, I'd say it was more of a discovery than an encounter or a visit. Unless you're used to running into Akha, Lahu, and Padaung people when leaving Reims Cathedral!

Hello, Personally, like here at Don Muang Airport, Bangkok: I encounter Sometimes you just have to hold back and respect the thread starter who’s sharing such a beautiful travel journal with us, right?

Don Muang Airport:

Second leg, continued and concluded: a few images from Kengtung Market

Okay, I’ll continue my story—thanks to those cheering me on!

Ah, we’d been eagerly waiting to reconnect with Asian markets, having stayed away from these parts for six long years... So? Well, it’s still the same pleasure—eyes drawn everywhere, nostrils tingling... Colors, faces, smiles. And all of that speaks for itself!

Oops, wrong button—I’ll continue:























There you go! Next up, our third stop at Inle Lake!

2nd leg, continued and concluded: a few images from the Kengtung market

Well, I’ll keep sharing my story since a few of you seem interested (thanks so much!)...

Hi everyone, I’ve been quiet but I’m following along with great pleasure. Have a lovely rest of your Sunday! Françoise

Great start. Don't stop! 😉

Could you specify where you stayed in Kengtung? Also, did you book in advance (room, guide, etc.)?

Thanks

Thank you so much, Fabienne, for this report and the beautiful photos. It does me good! And it brings back wonderful memories, discoveries, and encounters in this country. I’m especially happy to see photos of the Kengtung region—my favorite spot during my trips to Myanmar. Wishing you all the best.

Lovely travel journal and above all, stunning photos!

I can't wait for the next part—keep it up! 🙂

The singers take turns, each performing one or two songs. Strangely, while they're singing, people come up and drape garlands around their necks—they finish their song looking like a Christmas tree! Then, during their performance, one of the officials sitting at the side of the stage comes over in a very obvious, almost theatrical way to hand them a wad of bills.

This is similar to what you see in Thailand and Laos (where they use flower garlands instead of Christmas ones, or just flowers alone—see the screenshot). Indeed, spectators buy flowers and necklaces to offer as a tribute, which are then exchanged for cash. It’s more discreet and elegant than handing over money directly (though that happens too in some cases). It’s worth knowing that these popular artists, who aren’t sponsored by national brands, really struggle financially and fund part of their tours or festivals this way.

Either way, you witnessed a special moment at this festival—thanks for sharing it!

Screenshot: A very famous singer in Thailand (Tai Orathai) here on tour in Laos: (Champa Muang)

Hi there,

It’s been a while since I last checked out this section of VF, and I’m really glad I did—I love your travel journal. Great photos and a lovely write-up, bravo and thank you! 🙂

Especially since I’ve been thinking about a second trip to Burma, which we enjoyed so much, to see Kentgung and Mrauk U. 😛

You have a way of traveling that’s just like ours—what a nice bonus! 😉

Hi Fabienne,

Thanks for sharing this trip with us. The photos are gorgeous :)

Hello,

Gorgeous photos!

I’ve been following your trip with great interest and can’t wait for the next update!

We’ll be in Burma this August with our kids, and your travel journal will be a huge help!

Have a great day.

3rd leg: Inle Lake, 4 nights / 3 full days



Answering earlier questions: in Kengtung we stayed at the Princess Hotel. Very basic, but clean. Yes, we had booked ahead, but I think there were still a few rooms left—though there’s very little accommodation in Kengtung, so during peak season I’d recommend booking even if tourists are still pretty rare.

We take a flight to get from Kengtung to Heho. No issues again—it’s a different domestic airline, but the plane is just as spotless.

About an hour’s drive from the airport, the car drops us off at a dock where Dalo, our boatman for the next three days, is waiting. Comfortably settled in our longtail boat, seated in cushioned chairs, we glide along the canals and then out onto the lake. With the speed, the breeze is gentle, but the sun beats down hard and the glare is intense—best not to forget sunscreen and hats. After a little over half an hour, we turn toward the shore and arrive at our hotel, first hidden in the vegetation before its charming dark-wood bungalows gradually come into view.



We wanted to treat ourselves... Sigh... I think we’re gonna love it here...

Tucked into a fold of the Shan hills, Inle Lake—roughly 20 km by 10 km—is shallow (1 to 1.5 meters deep). It’s a magical setting, but its balance is under threat. Around 70,000 Intha people live on and around the lake in stilt houses, relying on fishing, market gardening, and—during the winter months—tourism, which is booming (and will likely need to be kept in check). You’ve probably seen photos of the Intha fishermen, who row with their feet and use large basket traps they place on the lakebed. They then use a long pole with a small trident at the end to spear the fish caught in the trap. Another fishing technique involves slapping the oar hard against the water’s surface to scare fish out of the aquatic plants so they can be caught in nets. We make sure not to get too close—keeping a respectful distance (thank goodness for telephoto lenses).

I posted the previous message a bit too quickly... here are the corresponding photos, and the rest. Below, fishermen at different times of the day.













First day on Inle Lake Our canoe glides through the stilt villages in the southern part of the lake. They’re real towns, fully electrified. It reminds us a bit of some villages on Tonle Sap in Cambodia.











We also pass through canals in the middle of the floating gardens, or Kyunpaw. They’re created by the Intha people using aquatic plants collected from the surface (like water hyacinths), which they mix with silt taken from the lake bottom. This gives them thick, meter-deep vegetable mats that they anchor to the lake bed with bamboo poles stuck into the soil. These gardens are incredibly productive: the plants benefit from the nutrients in the water, and they also have the advantage of rising and falling with the lake’s level. Vegetables grow here all year round—cabbages, tomatoes, eggplants, peas...













To be continued!

(Day 1 in Inle, continued)

We’re heading to visit the famous Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda, the main sanctuary in the region.



In the center of the hall, on a platform that only men are allowed to step on, sit five strange “sacred peanuts”... they’re actually Buddha statues from the 12th century that have been covered in so many gold leaves they’ve become completely unrecognizable.

Near the pagoda, a huge hangar houses a stunning sacred barge used for the annual procession during the rising moon of Thadingyut (in September/October).

Around the area, quite a few artisans work in stilt houses: canoe makers, weavers (of silk, or the rarer and pricier lotus-fiber fabric), and “silversmiths” (silver jewelry makers), with a range of quality, origin, and prices—it’s up to you to keep an eye out. After these visits where we run into quite a few tourists, we head off for a pleasant walk: the canoe drops us off at the lake’s edge, on a dirt path lined with fields and canals that leads us to a small village by the hills. A modest pagoda, farm work, kids leaving school, people waving at us kindly... About an hour and a half of peaceful strolling, just enjoying being there and photographing butterflies!

Here are the photos from our stroll by the lake:

hello Fabhyene

Gorgeous photos that really capture the atmosphere of Inle Lake: peaceful and authentic. For us, they bring back great memories from last year.

Bernard (from the North)

Inle Lake, Day 2, we set off early (we're in peak tourist season), because we want to visit the rotating market first, which that day is held at the foot of the Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda, then head up to the Inthein site (the market rotates daily among 5 villages on Inle Lake).







The orange or red checkered headscarves of the Pa-O women add an extra splash of color to an already vibrant and irresistible scene!





























We arrived early and left early, just as many tourists start to show up... Now we're heading up the river that will take us to Inthein. Here too, we hope to enjoy the site before it gets too crowded.







To be continued: the Inthein site!

Shwe Inthein

We’re already fascinated by the sight of the oldest stupas, near the shore. These first stupas, the oldest ones, are said to date back to the 14th century. They’re in ruins, surrendered to the vegetation.















We wander for a moment among these melancholic silhouettes, then take the large covered staircase, lined with stalls that are just starting to open, leading to the sanctuary. Halfway up, we step out of the covered staircase to wander again among the stupas, these ones dating from the 17th century.







A banana vendor



The closer we get to the sanctuary, the more it’s surrounded by slender zedis, like an enclosure of golden arrows.













Inside the sanctuary:







When we head back down, the shops along the covered path are open, and we come across many visitors. A tip: if you go, do like we did and set off early in the morning!

(End of the second day in Inle)

We leave Inthein and head back down the river to return to the lake.

We pass by the Pein Daw Monastery in Iwama (below)



We set off to visit a monastery. On this topic, see below some photos of a few impressive monasteries we came across during our 3-day walk around the lake.











Ngaphe Kyaung Monastery (or Taunggyi, or the Jumping Cats Monastery)



A room with remarkable proportions and stunning statues.









And that’s it for our second day in Inle. On the way back, we follow this boat that’s a big hit with the gulls and seagulls!!!

Today I’m going to tell you about our third and final day at Inle Lake, with a great boat excursion to Sagar Lake (which is south of Inle Lake). For those planning to visit Burma and Inle, I highly recommend this trip—it’s a bit off the beaten path. Just note that it takes a full day.

Since I have quite a few photos to share and even after reducing them there are still too many, I think this will take 3 posts...

We set off even earlier than the day before, at a time when the mist banks haven’t yet lifted...



As we head up the river connecting Inle Lake to Sagar Lake, we pass through many villages. Daily life unfolds before our eyes—fieldwork, bathing in the river... (photos below taken both on the way there in the morning and on the way back in the afternoon)





Skilfully steered by Dalo, our canoe weaves expertly through the water hyacinth clusters, which at one point even forced us to take a detour... It’s hard to tell when we actually reached Sagar Lake, which looks like a vast field of hyacinths and lotuses...

Amazing photos, well done! 🙂

Yes, absolutely—you just *have* to "head down" to Sankar. 🙂

There are also stunning stupas (Old Sankar). We stayed at Sankar, at the Little Sankar Lodge... gorgeous, and we had the place to ourselves. 😎

Thanks! 🙂 🙂 🙂

I must say it’s even hard to tell when we actually reached Lake Sagar—it looks like a vast field of water hyacinths and lotuses...

When you pass the Thar Kaung site, you’ve already been on Lake Sagar for about 1 km.

It’s not easy to spot because the longtail boats follow a channel.

Fabrice

Finally, after a 2.5-hour boat ride, we dock at Sagar, the former royal city of the Shan ethnic group, on the eastern shore of the lake.



A few old stupas precede a more recent complex.



Then a path leads to another, older complex, crossing through a residential area. The walk is really pleasant.





After visiting Sagar, we get back in the canoe to cross the lake.



We climb up to two small pagodas overlooking the lake, which offer a remarkable panorama.

To wrap up our day in Sagar, we visit the Tar Khaung Mwetaw pagoda.





Impressive once again, especially with such a variety of styles, particularly when it comes to the Buddha figures.





Finally, we head back. We savor every moment, because tomorrow morning we leave Inle Lake, and it’s not without a pang in our hearts—even though we’re sure we’re not done with the emotions yet!

If I have time, tomorrow evening I’ll continue with Mandalay. Completely different!

As a little teaser, I’ll just say: don’t always trust your first impression... At first, we weren’t too charmed by Mandalay, especially because of the pollution, but you’ll see it’s a destination rich in discoveries, and the people are really easy to connect with.

Mandalay (3 nights)

Well, here we are in Mandalay. As I mentioned in my last post, first impressions aren’t always accurate! Our initial contact wasn’t great, partly because of the contrast with Inle, but also due to the pollution (my throat was scratchy, and the pollution layer was really visible when we moved away from the city). But... we gradually fell under its spell as we explored and chatted with Maung Ko, our driver—cultured and with a dry, almost British sense of humor. Plus, we couldn’t help but be touched by the kind and joyful religiosity that’s so visible in Mandalay.

Day 1

First highlight: Shwenandaw Monastery, dating back to 1880, a true teak lacework. I’d never seen such intricate woodwork on this scale, both inside and out. Later, we saw three other beautiful teak monasteries (one more in Mandalay, one in Inwa nearby, and one in Bagan), but none matched this one.



We continued our visits with the Kuthodaw Pagoda, home to "the world’s largest book"—the Tripitaka, a complete transcription of the Buddhist canon, engraved and gilded with fine gold on 729 marble steles, each housed in its own white stupa. In the same vein, we then visited the Sandamuni Pagoda, which contains 1,774 engraved tablets with commentaries on the Tripitaka, each in its own stupa! Its massive gold-covered Buddha weighs over 20 tons.



Mandalay seems to have a thing for records: "the world’s largest book," "the biggest bell," the most monks, "the longest teak bridge." There’s even a highly respected monk who made it into the *Guinness Book of Records* for reciting 16,000 verses of sacred texts from memory over four days!

In a more traditional touristy move, we ended the day at the Sutaungpyai Pagoda, atop Mandalay Hill, which offers a 360° view from its terrace and is a favorite spot for sunset. You’ve got to elbow your way to the edge and hold your ground until the sun goes down...



Let’s ignore the crowds (I’ve got a knack for tuning them out...). The setting sun’s rays caress the hills and the dozens of pagodas rising all around... the city fades away... while the distant ribbon of fire on the Irrawaddy River lights up...



End of the first day

Day 2 in Mandalay

Mandalay, the country's second-largest economic center, is famous for its artisans. It's also a major commercial hub, especially due to its trade with China.

It's not only the capital of jade (below, jade cutting near the dedicated market),



but also the production center for gold leaf used by the millions by believers (through sheer arm strength, alternating intense sequences of hammering with heavy mallets).



as well as a large part of the marble statuary (no protection for the workers).



and also in bronze.



Weavers are also numerous here (as in many other cities).



Second major highlight in Mandalay: the Mahamuni Temple. Mahamuni means "Great Sage," and it's actually the nickname of the colossal Buddha statue that gave the temple its name. This revered statue also makes the temple the second-most venerated site in Burma, after Yangon's Shwedagon Pagoda. Buddhist pilgrims flock from all over Asia to pay their respects to this nearly 2,000-year-old statue, which was brought to Mandalay in the 18th century after a war with a neighboring province.



The "Great Sage" is impressive: its body is entirely covered in a bumpy layer formed by the accumulation of gold leaf applied by believers. As for the face, it shines with an unmatched brilliance... because it's polished twice a day by the monks! A gallery accessible only to men allows them to walk around it and apply additional gold leaf.



We take the time to soak in the atmosphere, eager to observe the demonstrations of faith from this crowd of believers. As we had already felt at the Shwedagon Pagoda, we aren't seen as intruders but with interest and kindness.

I've almost reached the photo limit per post... the day isn't over yet, to be continued!!!

Second day in Mandalay, continued

Novitiate processions The tradition is for boys (though there are monasteries for women and novice girls too) to spend several months to several years as novices. Burmese Buddhists are very attached to this and show great respect for the religious education they received (this is what each of our successive drivers/guides in Burma expressed). The novitiate ceremony is an opportunity for families to form a joyful procession of honking pick-ups, in which women and girls are dressed in magnificent traditional outfits, their buns adorned with bright flowers, while the boys are dressed like princes. For grandparents, it’s a matter of pride, and as they grow older, they insist on seeing their grandsons enter the novitiate. This is why it’s common for very young children to celebrate their novitiate and only stay at the monastery for a day or a week, returning for a longer period when they’re older.



We saw two of these processions, and with the families’ permission, we were able to take lots of photos of the second one. It seemed like an entire village had arrived, complete with musicians and performers.



Further on, we witnessed another Buddhist tradition. We first stopped to get a closer look at a curious golden vehicle, which turned out to be a hearse. The people there took us by the hand and led us, smiling, to a nearby room where an entire community was keeping vigil for an elderly monk who had just passed away. We really didn’t want to intrude, but we had no choice: after making us take off our shoes, we were escorted into the room. I was seated with the women, who were laughing, while my husband was surrounded by four men who, very seriously, made him walk around the transparent coffin where the deceased lay. He had to take photos of everything they showed him: the venerable monk through the glass, some of his belongings, the offerings, the empty chairs where other monks would sit to celebrate the ceremony, and so on...



Then we were allowed to leave, with warm goodbyes.

Next post: Mingun!

Day 2 in Mandalay, Mingun

In the afternoon, we take a mini-cruise on the Irrawaddy to reach the archaeological area of Mingun, which makes for a pleasant and interesting visit. You can do it on foot (allow a good 3 hours) or by tuk-tuk (about 2 hours), but make sure to negotiate the fare upfront... and if a young man insists on joining the tuk-tuk as a guide, be careful—it’s not included in the price!!!



As we approach Mingun, we spot the imposing silhouette of the great unfinished pagoda—a monumental stupa that, begun in the late 18th century, was never completed and was later badly damaged by an earthquake (and another more recent one).



We also visit the immaculate Hsinbyume Pagoda, built in the early 19th century and repainted every two years... the only colorful part is the small niche at the top of the pagoda, which houses two Buddhas that have retained their colors...



A little further on, you can also see the monumental 90-ton bell that was meant for the unfinished pagoda... I’ll spare you the photo—it’s a bell, just bigger!



After that, it’s time to head back to Mandalay to admire the sunset over the Irrawaddy...



End of day 2 in Mandalay... to be continued in the next episode

Day 3 in Mandalay

Every morning there's a little street market right at the foot of the hotel. We passed through quickly yesterday, but this morning we got up a bit earlier to take our time wandering around before heading out for the day. We never get tired of it!



More to come in the next two posts, and that'll be it for Mandalay!

(Mandalay, day 3, continued)

After the market, we head to the monastery of the 1,300 monks, or Mahagandaryone, in Amrapura, a small town near Mandalay and a former royal capital. Every morning at 10:15 AM, the monks and novices line up before heading to the vast refectories where their breakfast awaits. This monastery, renowned for the quality of its teaching, lives on donations and its publications, sparing its residents from having to collect alms in the streets each morning. Check out the selected and cropped photos below... because tourists are so numerous observing and photographing the monks that it’s rare not to see a bucket hat or a pink thigh in the shot!



Honestly, you can skip this "attraction"... though the monastery allows it because it contributes to its reputation and, therefore, the donations it receives.

We then went to explore Sagaing.



Across from Mandalay, on the other side of the Irrawaddy, Sagaing and its hills are home to over 600 monasteries and around 6,000 monks. Since the first constructions dating back to the 14th century, pagodas have continued to rise everywhere. We particularly enjoyed the Umin Thounzeh Pagoda and its curved hall with 45 Buddhas, as well as the Sun U Ponya Shin Pagoda, which offers a beautiful panorama from the terrace at the back of the temple.



It’s scorching hot—we’re doing these visits in the middle of the day, when it’s at its hottest... but we’re almost alone!

Mandalay, conclusion

In the afternoon, we head to the Inwa site. Even though Inwa is very busy, its rural and lush setting, far from Mandalay’s hustle and pollution, makes it a charming destination.



Inwa, formerly Ava, was a royal capital for six centuries. The site is explored by rickety horse-drawn carriage, on foot (though in that case, it’s best to avoid the paths crowded with carriages), or by mountain bike if you bring one...



What is there to see? A lovely countryside and a few beautiful sites: A stunning teak monastery (unfortunately, there wasn’t enough space for photos),



A brick monastery covered in stucco (Maha Aung Bom San, 1819):



But what we enjoyed most were the older sites—the 14th-century Daw Gyan Pagoda and the Yedanasini Pagoda from the same era, with its magnificent melancholic Buddhas.



After Inwa’s tranquility, we meet up for the end of the day and sunset at the U Bein Bridge in Amarapura... The world’s longest teak footbridge (1.2 km) spans the muddy waters of a lake on 6-meter-high stilts. Unfortunately, the bridge is a victim of its own success—it’s more crowded than Deauville’s boardwalk in summer, and clusters of tourists in boats wait for the sunset... My powers of abstraction fail me here—the magic doesn’t work... but no big deal, after all! I’m still happy with this photo of a crane, completely unbothered by all the commotion...



That’s it for Mandalay! Next up: Bagan, but first, a stop at Mount Popa...

Hi there, and thanks for this lovely travel journal. The photos are gorgeous. I can’t wait to see what’s next!

Maybe I missed it, but could you share the name and contact details of the local tour operator and let us know the cost of this amazing trip?

Thanks in advance! Larri

hi Larri, Thanks for your encouragement (and thanks to everyone else who chimed in). I’ll send you the details you asked for in a private message tonight. Best regards, Fabienne

Thanks in advance larri

5th leg: Road to Bagan, but via Mount Popa!

Here’s Taung Kalat Monastery below, often mistakenly called “Mount Popa” after the nearby volcano. The two are frequently confused online. The volcano, whose last eruption is said to have been 2,500 years ago, rises to 1,500 meters (1,000 meters above the plateau), while the volcanic plug on which the monastery is built juts a few hundred meters above the plateau. The area, a designated nature park, is lush and green thanks to both the fertile volcanic soil and numerous waterways. It’s home to colonies of macaques.

It’s considered the refuge of the 37 great nats—spirits from animist worship that were integrated into Burmese Buddhism in the 11th century (similar to how ancient deities were absorbed into Christian saints, like Saint Nicholas). We just visited the monastery, but apparently there are some great treks in the nature park, which is also a haven for birds.



The photo’s overexposed, but it gives you an idea of the place—a curious "rock plug" topped with a pagoda, reached by a long covered staircase winding around the mount.

But first, a few images from the road....



The lush surroundings, the nat worship, and the monastery’s appeal make Mount Popa a hugely popular destination. Before reaching the village, we stopped at what looked like a Buddhist theme park under construction...



We saw stupa gilders in action (they weren’t painting—it was thin sheets of gold leaf being applied and glued to the stupa).



To reach the monastery, the climb up the 777 steps is punctuated by the scampering and piercing shrieks of macaques, the other residents of the place. You run into them everywhere on the stairs, which staff are constantly cleaning (yes, barefoot as usual... come on, don’t be grossed out—just save a final wipe for later!). We’d been warned about their thievery, but today they were more interested in snatching offerings (along the staircase, there are lots of small shrines with Buddha or the great nats)... I mean, that banana smell is pure torture!



The last set of stairs is almost as steep as ladders (but don’t worry—it’s not as tough as it looks)...



Finally, you reach the top of the rocky pinnacle, crowned with a gleaming monastery. Great views and sweeping panoramas from the terrace.



To be continued: BAGAN

Bagan

We’re so excited, and a little worried we might be disappointed. But we’re quickly reassured as we cross the site to reach our hotel.

At last, the magic of Bagan can work its charm! It’s true, we’re passionate about old stones, and the sight of a ruin gives us chills... So here, with hundreds of stupas and temples scattered across the countryside, all ours to explore at leisure... We must’ve looked like two dogs in a sausage shop, tails wagging, noses in the air...

On the wings of the wind... No comment.





Pure bliss.

Hi there,

Having also created a few travel journals, including my most recent one about Burma, I just wanted to encourage you and confirm that we’re always a bit disappointed by the small number of comments.

Your journal has the advantage of generously illustrating your journey: we really know and see what there is to admire in the regions you visited. Your enjoyment shines through in your words—we’re even happy for you!

Hi Joel, Thanks for your message. To be honest, I do this mostly for my own pleasure—I love writing, taking photos, and sharing them. Plus, it all extends the joy of the trip. I took a look at your travel journal—great stuff! I’ll go back and read it carefully this weekend (especially since they’re forecasting rain...). Smile: I’m lucky—I love walking barefoot (and I don’t mind if the ground is a bit grimy)... My mom spent my whole childhood telling me to put on my shoes... but it’s true that stepping on chestnuts in the full sun can be painful! Anyway, it really makes the Burmese laugh to see us hopping around like lemurs... Fabienne

Hi Fabienne

and all that extends the pleasure of the trip.

Totally agree! 🙂

And reading yours extends the trip too. I recognize everything we felt, saw, and loved... thanks! 🙂

It’s true that Burma is such a colorful destination—beautiful temples, wonderful encounters, warm smiles, and a really pleasant vibe. I think Buddhism plays a part in that too.

I don’t think anyone could be disappointed by Bagan... eagerly waiting for the rest! 😛 🙂

Hey Max, Thanks! Love the Alabama Hills behind you! 😉

Bagan, continued



I won’t list all the temples we visited... and besides, I couldn’t do it as well as Joel (jojoone), who wrote a really comprehensive report.

What we loved about Bagan was being able to wander around and, no matter where we went, making new discoveries. The variety of styles, shapes, and sizes is amazing, even if some restorations were a bit questionable.

And make sure to go inside everywhere you can—there are lovely surprises even in the small structures scattered across the countryside!

In the photos that follow, you’ll get a glimpse of all the architectural evolutions: the stupas that gradually took on a bell shape topped with a slender spire, the pagodas with a pyramidal form crowned by an ogive, while the temples grew in size and height, opening up on all four sides and developing increasingly complex roofs featuring a corn-cob-shaped tower...



If you love two wheels, this place is perfect for you—you can explore it in every direction by scooter or bike. We took another horse-drawn carriage ride, which let us take some backroads!





Of course, sunset calls... But you don’t have to crowd onto the same temple (which reminded us of another pyramid temple swarmed at dusk in Angkor). You can ask for advice and find a more intimate spot...



To be continued!

It's so beautiful! Thanks for sharing. We're thinking about our next trip, and Burma is one of the possibilities. I'll be following along closely. Have a great weekend! Françoise

Bagan, continued

But Bagan isn’t an open-air museum—it’s a living place, with several villages and people who, sure, work in tourism during the high season, but spend the rest of the year doing other things. The horse-cart driver I chatted with told me that for the rest of the year, he and his whole family work with bamboo (harvesting it and making fences, partitions, and bamboo furniture).

Because of the local population, a number of temples and pagodas are still used as places of worship. Some are very famous and attract lots of devotees.



A personal favorite: the Ananda Temple, built in 1105.



A deeply respected sanctuary, its grand entrance portals lead to four halls, each housing a nearly 10-meter-tall gilded teak Buddha.



A double gallery encircles the temple’s center, one of which is pierced with hundreds of niches, each holding a Buddha.



Beautiful frescoes are still visible here and there, even if some have partly faded away.

For fresco lovers, many temples and pagodas contain them—some just traces, but others have entire walls and ceilings.

Another very popular pagoda is Shwezigon, built in 1102. The "bell" of its golden stupa was under renovation, and here it is, all wrapped up in tarps above the bamboo scaffolding.



The complex includes many pavilions where the Nats are "staged." As we’d seen earlier in our trip, their worship is very much alive. Devotees crowd around them, call out their names, and leave offerings.



Can anyone tell me who this figure is in the Buddhist pantheon or mythology? We saw him depicted in several pagodas—clearly in bad shape (greenish complexion, wounds, bulging eyes, tongue hanging out), being devoured in the liver or entrails by a vulture. And don’t tell me it’s Prometheus...



To be continued: more Buddhas—we saw so many different ones right here in Bagan...