San Francisco and the Far West... 22 days, 22 photos...

It was exactly 1 year ago today. 22 days in the American West, a beautiful loop starting from San Francisco, with just one place we passed through twice (Death Valley).

Since my first travel journal, recently completed, was very chatty and included lots of photos, I made a big decision this time: 1 day = 1 photo with a comment, that's it!

Before I start, here’s a quick overview of our trip: - San Francisco

- The Pacific Coast (Highway One) from Monterey to Cambria - Death Valley - West Grand Canyon - South Grand Canyon - Vermillion Cliffs - Page (Horseshoe Bend, Antelope Canyon) - Monument Valley

- Moab (Arches Park, Canyonlands) - Bryce Canyon (via Capitol Reef) - Zion Park - Las Vegas - Lone Pine / Alabama Hills (passing through Death Valley again) - Mammoth Lakes - Yosemite - Return to San Francisco via Sonoma.

Here we go! Below are the first 4 photos, for the first 4 days in San Francisco.

Day 1 – Saturday, April 30, around 5:30 PM – Embarcadero, San Francisco



This photo was taken on the long promenade of "The Embarcadero," not far from the Ferry Building. It perfectly captures our state of mind at that moment: the weather is gorgeous, we’ve just dropped off our luggage at the hotel just steps away, and we’re strolling with light hearts, though our eyelids are heavy...

The gleaming vintage trams of the historic line pass by on the boulevard. Soon, the day will fade, and the silhouette of the Bay Bridge spanning the bay will be outlined by thousands of tiny lights... A flavor explosion awaits us nearby at "La Mar Cevicheria," with a delicious local white wine... This trip is off to a great start!

Day 2 - Sunday, May 1, around 3:30 PM, San Francisco Bay



The sun is shining brightly, and we’re on the ferry returning from Sausalito. In this silvery-blue light, everything sparkles, even the steep streets in the background... We’re still amazed to be here.

Day 3 - Monday, May 2, around 4 PM, atop Twin Peaks



A bus line from Haight Ashbury takes you almost to the top of Twin Peaks, winding through incredibly twisty streets. The day has been beautiful again. But the cold wind that just picked up is bringing clouds from the ocean—quick, we’re heading back down...

Tonight, we’re going to see Keith Jarrett at Davies Symphony Hall...

Day 4 - Tuesday, May 3, around 10 AM, National Historical Park



Our first national park! It’s the "Maritime National Historical Park," near Fisherman’s Wharf. Really lovely. Afterward, we’ll grab some delicious fish and chips under the envious gaze of seagulls...

In the afternoon, we pick up our rental car and head to Monterey. Less than 2 hours’ drive.

To be continued!

Day 5 - Wednesday, May 4th, along the West Coast on Highway One

This is officially the start of our road trip! To reach the South Rim of the Grand Canyon, it’s quite a drive, so we’re breaking it into 4 days, with about 4.5 hours of driving each day. After that, from the South Rim onward, our stops will be much shorter, with a few exceptions. And given that, for this part of the USA, the roads themselves are often a delight!



This view has been photographed a million times, I’m sure! The coast we’re following along Highway One is stunning and well-preserved, even if the sun isn’t cooperating with us this time. We make multiple stops... we dip our feet in the ocean, watch the elephant seals, and see pelicans flying by...

After Cambria, we leave the coast to head east— the Wild West awaits! We’ll make a stop late in the afternoon in Bakersfield to break up the drive.

From Monterey to Cambria: 2 hours of driving (without stops) From Cambria to Bakersfield: 2.5 hours

Hi Fabienne, How do you manage to pick just one photo per day? 😉. Hats off—I couldn’t do it! That said, they’re all really beautiful, and your comments explain your choices well.



This view has been photographed a million times, I think!

Maybe this view *has* been photographed a lot, but I still think it’s gorgeous. Looking forward to the rest!

Hi Fabienne, I think the 1-day/1-photo format is really nice, especially when you know the work and time a travel journal takes.

Thanks Françoise! Actually, I also struggle a lot with selecting photos, but on the other hand, taking just one is easier in the end!

Thanks, Catherine! Actually, I saw there were quite a few really detailed travel journals about this part of the United States. I wanted to try a different kind of exercise! Glad you like it!

Day 6 - Thursday, May 5, Death Valley, around 6 PM

Thermal-aesthetic shock...

Wow, it’s tough to pick just one photo—Death Valley has so many different and stunning faces! Over an area the size of the Île-de-France, you’ll find canyons, a mini Sahara (pictured here), red cliffs, rock walls veined with purple, green, and yellow, fossilized dunes, and the blinding salt crust of Badwater Basin... a true mineral mosaic.



I went with the Mesquite Sand Dunes. I love the perfect curves of the dunes and the incredible physical challenge of those billions of grains of sand... I also love those two little silhouettes, which remind me of another photo that’s very dear to me, taken in Namibia a few years ago with my kids. Like an echo...

From Bakersfield to Death Valley, 4 hours by road, taking the scenic Route 178 to cut through the very tip of the Sierra Nevada.

Day 7 - Friday, May 6, Grand Canyon West outskirts, around 6 PM



After leaving Death Valley late in the morning, we arrived in the mid-afternoon at the western edge of the Grand Canyon. Tonight, we’re staying at a ranch at the foot of a beautiful mesa, right in the middle of a Western revival... A stroll among the Joshua trees, a short horseback ride... Come on, let’s embrace the folklore and reconnect with our inner child, roasting marshmallows over a wood fire... Isn’t he a handsome cowboy?

Tomorrow, what we hope will be a highlight: a helicopter flight and descent!

From Death Valley to Grand Canyon West, 4 hours of driving (via Las Vegas but without stopping, since we’ll make a stop there later). We’re 15 minutes from the park entrance and the heliport.

Hi Fabienne,

I really love the photo of San Francisco Bay—a city we still haven’t visited despite three trips to the West. I’m hopping on board your travel journal, what a great idea—one photo a day!

I really love the photo of San Francisco Bay, a city we don’t know yet

We love wide-open spaces, but we also really love cities. We "fell in love" with San Francisco. Even though it’s a big metropolis, its heart—what am I saying, its lungs—is easy to explore, offering great walks on foot (or on the iconic cable cars, or even the historic streetcar line), or by bike. Multicultural American-European vibe. Nature is right there in full force, especially with the ocean so present. Worth noting: we were particularly lucky with the weather.

Day 8 - Saturday, May 7, Grand Canyon West, 8:30 AM

It's a bit "tilted" but taken in flight...



“Whaow” (pronounced <> def.: all-purpose American interjection to express surprise and admiration, for anything in any circumstance—can even work for a great burger and a good beer, unlike “amazing,” which is more limited in use)

First helicopter ride, and my eyes are popping out. We skim over clumps of grass, then suddenly there’s the gaping chasm of the Grand Canyon, and after a dizzying 1,200-meter drop, the helicopter lands us gently at the bottom for a 15-minute barge ride on the Colorado (muddy that day). Hop hop hop (time is money), we get back in the helicopter, and pou-poum pou-poum pou-poum—after just a few heartbeats, we’re slightly dazed back at our starting point. It’s short but intense. I’d love to go for another spin, but I couldn’t grab Mickey’s tail for a free ride—bummer! After that, we spend the morning exploring the site and visiting the different viewpoints. Just before noon, a big storm rolls in... time to hit the road!

Heading to Grand Canyon South Rim. Tonight we’re staying at the legendary El Tovar Hotel for 2 nights—giving us a full day to enjoy the place. From Grand Canyon West to Grand Canyon South Rim: 4 hours of driving, including a short stretch of nearly abandoned Route 66, but there’s really not much to see on that part.

Really beautiful travel journal/concept. The essentials are all there—great job!!

Magalie

Day 9 - Sunday, May 8, Grand Canyon South Rim, 6:15 AM

5:15 AM: Too early to get up... 5:30 AM: I’m still thinking about the jaw-dropping moment we had yesterday when we arrived—what an incredible view! 5:40 AM: But the sky looked threatening, like the storm from Grand Canyon West had followed us... I hope today’s weather is nice so we can explore the park at our leisure! 5:42 AM: He’s sleeping peacefully. 5:43 AM: He really sleeps well—it’s kind of adorable. 5:44 AM: Ugh, he’s annoying me sleeping like that. 5:45 AM: Too long to wait. I get dressed in the dark, grab my camera, and rush outside. The sun is rising over one of the most beautiful sights I’ve ever seen.



To soak in these magical moments, I followed the trail for about 45 minutes, breathing in the fresh air. Good thing I wore a thick sweater—it’s chilly, but we’re at 2,000 meters (6,500 feet) above sea level!

I get back to the hotel around 7:30 AM, and "Sleeping Beauty" wakes up with a kiss...

Today: zero kilometers by car, but a few on foot and on the park shuttles...

Day 10 - Monday, May 9, Lees Ferry, Spencer Trail, around 5 PM

I chose this photo because I love the reflections!



On the side of the Vermilion Cliffs, after the Lees Ferry dock, we start the Spencer Trail and then continue along the Colorado River. The walk is really pleasant; under the overcast sky, the Colorado becomes a deep mirror reflecting the orange rocks.

From Grand Canyon South Rim to Lees Ferry, 2h20 drive but with lots of stops (the many viewpoints over the Grand Canyon, Little Colorado, Navajo Bridge, etc.)

Day 11 - Tuesday, May 10, Lake Powell, around 5:30 PM



Today, this view of Lake Powell impressed me the most. If it weren’t for the vegetation in the foreground, I would’ve thought I was on another planet—with those milky rocks in unusual shapes and that unreal blue water. Seeing a gleaming UFO gently rise above that mineral pyramid wouldn’t have surprised me all that much...

From Lees Ferry to Page, less than an hour’s drive. Visits to Horseshoe Bend and Upper Antelope Canyon.

Day 12 – Wednesday, May 11, Monument Valley, 1:30 PM



This is where we’re having a picnic with Leslie, our Navajo guide for the day. This morning, he took us to explore Mystery Valley, not far from here—completely different. It’s pretty low-key since you can only visit with a guide. For lunch, a simple meal in a stunning setting before heading out to explore Monument Valley. With him, we learned so much about the Navajo Nation, its history, culture, and beliefs.

From Page to Monument Valley, a 2-hour drive. To make the most of the sundown and sunset, stay overnight (The View Hotel, especially the "premium cabins" overlooking the valley).

Good evening Fabienne,

Thanks for sharing and for the concept. I’m a big fan of MV, and your last photo is stunning.

I'm a Monument Valley lover (...)

I get you! Monument Valley holds a very special place in our memories. The Grand Canyon is fascinating and dizzying, while Monument Valley is majestic, and it exudes serenity.

Day 13 - Thursday, May 12, Dead Horse Point State Park, Moab, 2:30 PM

In the photo, in the background, the "La Sal Mountains," still capped with snow at this time of year.



We came to have a picnic on the plateau. It offers breathtaking views of a landscape that’s not so much lunar as it is Martian—if it weren’t for the Colorado River’s meanders, 600 meters below, reminding us we’re still on Earth...

From Monument Valley to Moab, a 2.5-hour drive, plus 45 minutes to make the detour to Newspaper Rock.

Day 14 - Friday, May 13, Canyonlands, Colorado River banks, 9:45 AM Here are Brenda and John...



This morning, we take a walk of over 3 hours along the Colorado River. We become aware of the fragile balance, here too, of this magnificent nature.

Visits around Moab: Canyonlands in the morning, Arches Park in the afternoon. Second night in Moab.

I did almost the same trip already 4 years ago. You’re bringing back so many memories for me. Your photos are gorgeous. I have a soft spot for the one taken at sunrise over the Grand Canyon. For the photo itself, but also for the moment you captured it... You must’ve experienced something magical. Can’t wait for the rest!.....

Day 15 - Saturday, May 14, Scenic ByWay 12, 2:30 PM

"Hitting the road"

I think by this point we’d become addicted to driving toward the unknown, fully aware of how lucky we were to be passing through places we’d never been before. In short, all we wanted was to keep hitting the road... to find ourselves amazed after a turn, suddenly coming face-to-face with a bizarre hill, rocks in incredible colors, right next to a cliff...

On May 14, we got exactly what we were hoping for! To get to Bryce Canyon, our next stop, we chose to take Route 24, stopping for lunch at the Fruita Oasis and treating ourselves to the scenic drive of Capitol Reef. Then, near Torrey, we took the BW12, and wow—we weren’t disappointed, not even close! A succession of breathtaking landscapes: Dixie National Forest, Boyton Overlook, Escalante...

So it makes sense that today’s photo is an ode to the road...



Here we are near Calf Creek, on a stretch of the BW12 after Boulder. The road suddenly winds into big loops, and the landscape changes completely yet again...

After all that excitement, we arrive at Bryce Canyon around 5 PM. We drop our bags at the cabin we rented inside the park and walk the 200 meters to the canyon. Bam! Another jaw-dropping moment... but I’ve used up my photo quota for the day!

From Moab to Fruita/Capitol Reef: 2.5 hours, via Routes 191, then 70, then 24. From Fruita to Bryce: 2 hours 45 minutes, via Route 24 then the BW12. Many possible/recommended stops.

Day 16 - Sunday, May 15, somewhere between Bryce and Zion, by the side of the road, around 2 pm

Okay, so you can't see me right now, but I'm totally torn 🤪: today's photo—should it be the early morning at Bryce Canyon, lighting up like a thousand candles... or Zion with its milky cliffs, off-white or pale pink, like they’ve been sanded and scratched?

I just can’t decide between them, so the winner is this amazing lizard who thinks if he stays completely still, we won’t see him... yeah, right!



From Bryce to Zion / Springdale, 2 hours by car. Just past Bryce, the red canyon offers itself generously... No need to take a detour to enjoy it! Just this once, here’s an address for those who want to buy beautiful, authentic jewelry (but not free, so don’t get too excited): Tribal Arts, 291 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale

But why did you only go for 22 days... I want more!

Hi Fabienne, I really like your idea of posting just one photo per day—you pick them so well, and I love your comments about your days. I adore your Monument Valley photo (it brings back such strong emotions). Thanks!

Day 17 - Monday, May 16, Las Vegas Boulevard, Midnight

Wow, you guys are putting the pressure on me...

Going from Zion to Las Vegas is quite a shock! We're a little groggy, and it's not just from the cocktails...

The anthill springs to life after nightfall, ramping up nonstop—how far, how long? We won’t know because we went to bed around 2 a.m... in a room big enough to roller-skate in, overlooking the Bellagio fountains, right across from the Eiffel Tower...

But where’s Elvis?

We ran into all sorts of characters: groups of friends having fun, Narcissists looking to catch glances, loners seeking escape, a Chewbacca, zombies who seemed like they hadn’t slept in ages (but you lose track of time here)... and a myriad of employees keeping the machine running...

We went out to admire the neon lights, in this oversized carnival atmosphere with its giant screens, architectural madness, and extravagant lights...



We wanted to see—we saw. Defeated, we were.

From Springdale to Las Vegas, 2.5-hour drive

Day 18 - Tuesday, May 17, Alabama Hills, Lone Pine, 5:30 PM

Alabama Hills: what a mess! You can even find a stranded grouper here...



Here we are at the foot of the Sierra Nevada, after crossing Death Valley again (with a stop at Zabriskie Point).

In Lone Pine, a scenic drive lets us discover a curious little range of hills that look like a chaotic pile of rocks tossed by a mischievous giant. You might think they were rocks carried by a glacier, but they’re actually part of the Sierra Nevada and the same age, which is pretty surprising.

It’s a nice place to wander around... and big rocks are just waiting for you to sit down and admire the jagged peaks of the Sierra Nevada, which lives up to its name this time of year.

On the way back to the hotel, I rush online to check the latest on Tioga Pass.... Hooray! It opens tomorrow, and the forecast is great for the next few days... That means we can take our time exploring Mammoth Lakes tomorrow and cross the pass the day after, instead of having to go around!

From Las Vegas to Lone Pine, 4 hours of driving without stops, passing through Death Valley.

Day 19 - Wednesday, May 18, June Lake, 4:30 PM

A big breath of fresh air, crunchy snow under our feet, sunshine overhead (and a trout on our plate!) !

A big breath of fresh air: a restorative day, little driving, and all the time in the world to stroll along the foothills of the Sierra Nevada, near Mammoth Lakes, June Lake, and Grant Lake. We're above 2,000 meters in altitude, but the air is mild and smells wonderfully of pine!

Crunchy snow under our feet: beyond Twin Lakes, the snow-covered road is still closed. We walk around the lakes, our feet in the snow... a roaring waterfall cascades down from the lake above Twin Lakes. Sunshine overhead: June Lake (below), where we're staying tonight, already feels like summer!



A trout on our plate: tonight, at Carson Peak Inn in June Lake. Highly recommended!

From Lone Pine to June Lake, without the detour to Mammoth Lakes, 2 hours of driving. In Bishop, a supply stop: at Erick Schat’s Bakery (incredible selection of pastries and bread) and at Mahogany Smoked Meats (smoked meat and also delicious pastrami).

Amazing photo! Looks like a scene straight out of a movie!

Hi Fabienne! Thanks for this travel journal—such a cool concept 😎, and your photos, as I’ve already said, are stunning!!! It’s been almost a year since we got back from our West Coast road trip (my first one), and I still think about our amazing trip every single day. More are already in the works 😉, and like you, we fell in love with SF. Have a great evening! Vanessa

Amazing photo! Looks like a movie scene

Hi Victor, We really do often feel like we're in widescreen... the "width" and "depth" of the landscapes blew me away time and time again! It was like everything was bigger than anywhere else... even the horizon seemed wider!

I can confirm, GC is absolutely stunning!

Hello Fabienne! Thanks for this travel journal, such a cool concept!

Thanks! It’s actually a fun exercise to try synthesizing and letting the essence of a day or place emerge... And there are already so many super detailed travel journals about this destination (super helpful when you’re planning, by the way!).

What kind of camera do you have?

Hi Victor, We have two cameras. I mostly use a Panasonic Lumix bridge camera, which I’m really happy with for its ease of use and adaptability, plus it has a powerful Leica electronic zoom. My husband mostly uses the DSLR, a Nikon D7000. The photos I posted here include shots from both. Looking back, I’m a little "jealous" of the grain quality from the DSLR. So, I just bought a new camera that I’ll be getting to know this summer in Italy. It’s not a DSLR because it’s too heavy for me—I went for a hybrid Panasonic Lumix G80. It’s closer to a DSLR but much more compact. Best regards,

Day 20 - Thursday, May 19, Yosemite, Tioga Pass, 9 AM

Here’s what Tioga Pass looked like on this May 19, 2016—reopened just the day before... This is the image that struck us the most today, even though we were able to admire magnificent panoramas all day long.



Altitude 3,031 meters... We stop just past the pass to take a few photos—we’re hit by a freezing wind.

The snow, still very present here and in the shaded, sheltered areas, thins out quickly as we descend the stunning Tioga Road, and the air warms up! With the snowmelt still lingering on the peaks and east-facing slopes, water is now everywhere—the famous Yosemite waterfalls are incredibly powerful.

In Yosemite Valley, the mosquitoes are back! We quickly head out to Glacier Point Road to admire the valley from above, already congested with vehicles on this Thursday in May...

From June Lake to Tioga Pass, 30 minutes by road, then the whole day to cross the mountain range, stopping wherever we felt like it.

Day 21 - Friday, May 20, Sausalito, 4 PM

After a lunch break and visit to Sonoma (the birthplace of the California Republic and the Bear Flag, a charming little town whose downtown has kept its Hispanic character), we head back to San Francisco to return our car.



We have time to make a quick stop in Sausalito (where we’d been at the start of our trip)... Here’s a view taken from the roadside on the way out of Sausalito. Behind the catamaran, Alcatraz, and the Bay Bridge.

We’re FEELING GOOD. A little pang in the heart that all this is coming to an end, but the thought of spending one last night in San Francisco is exciting. Tonight, we’ll head back to "our" Peruvian restaurant on the Embarcadero to enjoy a sumptuous ceviche and sip a delicious Sonoma white wine...

- From Yosemite’s West Gate to Sonoma: 4-hour drive. - From Sonoma to Sausalito: 45 minutes - From Sausalito to San Francisco Mason Street (to return the car): 30 minutes, crossing the Golden Gate Bridge.

Day 22 - Saturday, May 21st... I came to tell you I'm leaving...

This morning, we're not sightseeing—we're shopping... but the hustle and bustle of this Saturday doesn’t bother us. We’re happy with our journey, in great shape, and ZEN... That’s why I chose to illustrate this final morning with a photo taken at the start of our trip, in the lovely Japanese garden at Golden Gate Park.



And that’s it—my travel journal "22 days, 22 photos" is complete. What started as a personal challenge (being concise, getting to the point, and choosing one photo out of a hundred) turned into a game, and I really enjoyed it. Your feedback shows me that reading it was enjoyable too!

Now, I’ll go back to being a reader, a dreamer, and a "planner," until I have something new to share with you!

To everyone, happy travels!

Good evening Fabienne,

Thanks so much for this travel summary—it’s all the more appreciated since synthesizing and choosing a photo isn’t easy. Now it’s time to dive into reading and prep for the next trip.

Thanks Eric! I’ll actually be able to focus on planning our road trip through the Canadian Rockies and British Columbia (which you know!) for mid-2018. See you soon!

Love the idea of your travel journal! 😉 It really captures your mindset at the time and your memories—I’m a big fan!

Hi Fabienne,

For us, it’ll be one year on June 24th. Time flies.

Our trip also started in San Francisco.

"Like my first travel journal, which I just finished, was very chatty and had lots of photos, I made a big decision this time: 1 day = 1 photo with a caption, that’s it!"

Great idea, but it must’ve been tough to pick just one photo to capture what you did that day or a highlight.

Your first four days in San Francisco make me want to go back.

See you,

"This view has been photographed a million times, I think! The coast we’re driving along on Highway One is stunning and well-preserved, even if the sun isn’t cooperating with us this time."

We loved this view too. Like you, I’m one of the many people who’ve taken this photo—but mine was on June 26th. The colors were different: the sky was blue, but the grass had been turned golden by the sun.

Original photo of the cowboy in his wagon.

What’s the name of the ranch where you stayed?

Along the Vermilion Cliffs, after the Lees Ferry dock, we start the Spencer Trail and then continue following the Colorado. The walk is really pleasant; under the overcast sky, the Colorado becomes a deep mirror reflecting the orange rocks.

I love the reflections too—this photo is stunning.

Your photos are all more beautiful than the last.

Ah, Monument Valley!

It never gets old. I wish I could’ve been there with you and Leslie. Your photo is stunning. I really love the framing and the contrast of the red rock with the trees.

A big thank you for sharing this.

You were lucky that Tioga Road was open on May 19, 2016. This year, you would’ve had to go around the Sierra Nevada.

Have a great rest of your afternoon! !

Love the idea of your travel journal concept! 😉 It really captures your mindset at the time and your memories—I love it!

Hi Chloé, Thanks! I’ve got a rough plan to propose a collaborative journal where anyone who wants to could post in the same format—"one day, one situation/impression, one photo." That could be fun! I think I’ll wait until this winter, when we all need to escape and love reminiscing about our vacations....

Best regards,

A big thank you for sharing this.

You were lucky that Tioga Road was open on May 19, 2016. This year, you would’ve had to go around the Sierra Nevada.

Have a great rest of the afternoon! !

A huge thank you for all your comments—it’s really appreciated. I’m also dying to go back to San Francisco; I really loved the vibe and all its different sides... Thanks for the kind words about the photos. My husband and I are both photography lovers, and there’s even a little rivalry between us... basically, I’m better at framing, and he’s better at capturing the moment... in short, we complement each other! The ranch near Grand Canyon West is called the "Grand Canyon Western Ranch" in Meadview. A bit pricey, but the atmosphere is guaranteed, and the services are great. Best regards

Good evening Fabienne,

My husband and I also love photography. So, we often stop to take pictures of landscapes by the roadside or during our hikes. And I enjoy photographing animals up close.

Thank you for the ranch address. I had looked into it and saw that many ranches require a minimum stay of 3 nights. Reading your travel journal, I see that this isn’t the case for the "Grand Canyon Western Ranch."

Have a great evening!

Christine