Morocco Discovery Loop: Travel Journal

Hello,

My daughter (22) and I set off to explore a bit of her grandfather’s homeland. We left on July 26 from Roissy and arrived in Rabat with Air France. We had a few hiccups retrieving our luggage—1.5 hours of waiting and a mini interrogation at customs about our host’s address (they asked for a reference) and questions about a Moroccan ID card I’ve never applied for. Next time, I’d better have it—dual nationals get extra scrutiny.

We headed to the ONCF station to catch the train to Marrakech. First-class tickets cost 195 MAD, with assigned seats and decent comfort… the catch? The train was delayed, so we arrived at 2:50 AM instead of 12:10 AM.

We chose the Ibis Gare, located between the ONCF station and the Supratours bus terminal. We booked two nights from France for 79.85 €. To avoid the premium-rate call, just dial the hotel directly—they’ll handle the reservation. I’d signed up on the Ibis website beforehand for a discount (free and comes with perks).

On-site, we added 44 MAD for the tourist tax (11 MAD x 4 nights). We skipped breakfast—too pricey at 6.50 € per person. The hotel has a nice pool and a pleasant setting. The shower seals weren’t perfect, but the bedding was comfy, the linens soft, and the AC worked (though it was noisy). We were overall happy with it.

We had breakfast and lunch at a café/restaurant right across from the hotel—affordable and tasty.

For phones, we bought two Inwi SIM cards for 30 MAD each and a 5 GB internet top-up for 50 MAD—more than enough for our 16-day trip. Later, we added two 20 MAD call top-ups. Total phone budget for both of us: 150 MAD.

Taxis in Marrakech: No issues. We always asked for the meter—if a driver refused, we’d just move on. No haggling for us!

Day 1: We visited the Majorelle Garden (70 MAD per person). It was beautiful and peaceful. We walked there. In the afternoon, we took a taxi to Jemaa el-Fnaa square. The constant solicitations were exhausting—I felt like a guard dog fending people off. The worst part? We got lured deep into the medina to some sketchy spot under the pretense of seeing "Berber tanneries"—"last day!"—then had a guy grab our arms, demanding 200 MAD. I offered 50 MAD max since we hadn’t asked for anything. When he insisted, I threatened to go to the police. He finally let go for the 50 MAD. We headed back to the hotel to enjoy the pool before returning to the square for the evening. It was lively but noisy, and I found the vendors *way* too pushy. We walked back to the hotel—an hour-long stroll that was actually really nice. We kept no more than 150 MAD in our wallet at a time. We stuffed ourselves with smoothies—they’re *so* good.

Day 2: We left at 8:30 AM for Tinghir with Supratours, arriving at 4:45 PM instead of 4:00 PM (lots of roadwork). Tickets were 130 MAD per person + 5 MAD per checked bag. We stayed one night at the "Retour au Calme" hostel—super cozy! 150 MAD for a room with a private shower and toilet. AC was an extra 80 MAD per night (not mandatory) but worked great. Phone: +212 5248-34924. Breakfast was 30 MAD, and they offer tons of options, including budget-friendly choices like a couch for 80 MAD per person with shared showers/toilets. Half-board and full-board are also available. Mohamed and Alexandra are lovely. I booked by phone and paid on-site—they even picked us up from the bus station!

We took a taxi to the Todra Gorge—a breath of fresh air! It’s stunning and humbling. You feel tiny there. Shared taxis cost 8 MAD per person (fixed price). The organization was impressive. To get from the city center to the bus station: 3 MAD per person.

Day 3: We left at 4:00 PM for Merzouga, arriving at 9:30 PM. Tickets were 80 MAD per person + 5 MAD per checked bag. Upon arrival, we were greeted by Houssein, one of five brothers running the "Auberge Océan des Dunes." We had a lovely room with a private bathroom and kitchen access. Two rooms are available in this unit for 190 MAD per night for two, including breakfast.

Ocean Dunes Hostel It's a family-run place managed by a brotherhood of five men. The construction is rammed earth, the walls are 50 cm thick and retain heat... great in winter. The water in the bathrooms isn’t heated in summer... the shower is very hot (low pressure), no AC in our room but there are fans. In summer, the water can be cut off at night—bring a bucket or ask for one to have some for the night. Don’t drink the tap water... no one does, including the locals. However, they drink well water, but they advise tourists to stick to bottled water. This hostel also welcomes campervans and campers with tents. Others sleep on the terrace or outside. Towels and blankets are available in the rooms. There’s no TV, but Wi-Fi is available in the common areas, and you can cook your own meals. You can see the dunes from the hostel—20 minutes on foot to walk on them. Day 4: Departure with a shared taxi to Rissani’s Sunday souk, accompanied by Houssein, who said he had errands to run. He wanted to come with us!! ;) and didn’t ask for anything. 15 DH per person for the taxi. We wanted to buy plastic flip-flops but went for leather instead—same price, 40 DH. Visit to the kasbah, which is being fully renovated—50 families live there, and it’s really nice.

Heading to Moulay Ali Cherif, the birthplace of my grandfather’s family. Not knowing the ksar where he was born, we settled for the mausoleum... refreshing.

Back at the hostel, we cooked zucchini, ate yellow melon, and then headed to Houssein’s family palm grove and the dunes... I loved it, but then I felt unwell from the heat. I went back to the room—I was a total slug!!! Romy went back to the dunes to move around... without a hat—"It’s ugly and uncool!!!" Then back to the hostel... couldn’t eat anything solid! Just water, water!!! Romy had a quarter of Moroccan watermelon for dinner... you can guess the result... sick all night! Couldn’t see the sunrise because it was cloudy, and we were exhausted. Even though we were supposed to leave the room at 1 PM, they let us stay until 6 PM and took us to the bus at exactly 7 PM—they were adorable, especially since we were both so sick. 7 PM departure for Meknes... Supratours. Houssein had booked our tickets in advance. 170 DH + 5 DH per person. On the bus, I felt like throwing up the whole way. The rest stop smelled amazing with grilled food—I wanted some!!! But I was so scared of getting sick. Arrived at Meknes station at 3:30 AM—annoying but super fresh!!! Cold, we walked for an hour to our destination and waited for a reasonable time to show up. A café owner let us in while he was setting up. 8 AM, arrived at Hemti’s, my late dad’s sister’s place. Time to sleep.

Thanks for this travel journal. I always admire travelers who get by (and do it really well) using only public transportation. That often means more or less long journeys "on foot."

A budget-friendly trip, but well-planned thanks to tips from Vff members... we couldn’t have done anything without their advice!! A.

Not necessarily, Alain—by using the "petit taxis" or shared taxis you find everywhere, personally I don’t really walk much (unless I want to explore a specific spot by wandering around).

It’s just a matter of getting used to it, a reflex to develop. 🙂

You're absolutely right, because there's always the option to use the "petit" or "grand" taxis, which are usually available at bus stations. You're a perfect example of that (confirmed by Hannah when she stayed at our place in July.😉

that said, it’s true that sometimes you’re stuck "in the middle of nowhere" in quite a few spots that are nearly impossible to explore without your own car. The trip Hannah and I took really drove that home. But hey, they’re still amazing road trips anyway.

These are still some amazing trips.

And while it's still reasonably possible, use without overdoing it—highly recommended!

yes ... Ouagadougou again yesterday ... the world keeps shrinking 😕 and for the people affected, what sadness.

Days 6, 7, 8, 9 – Meknes and Fes We discovered the concept of French time vs. Moroccan time here: French: 30 minutes late Moroccan: 2 to 3 hours late... A certain leisurely pace—eat, sleep, eat, sleep, etc... Different houses and homes, from the simple house with all the comforts to the modern home in a beautiful neighborhood with marble everywhere, one level with 5 living rooms—basically a rich person’s house. Opulence of refined food. We were also lucky enough to be invited to share an afternoon snack in Moulay Driss in a very modest home where the key words are generosity and sharing. We only took photos of their mode of transport: the donkey. Volubilis, which I could only see from afar due to a paralyzed foot. But Romy enjoyed it and took photos of the site at sunset for us (photos to come). We could only spend one day in Fes—what a shame! A Moroccan woman we met on VF drove us to the Hôtel des Mérinides—what a stunning view!! Just wow! The place is truly magical. The medina, briefly! But too many solicitations. My daughter had a negative preconception, and I was struggling to walk, so it wasn’t easy. I’d go back alone. The stories from VF members really make me want to get to know this city better.

The evening we returned to Meknes, we were lucky enough to be shown around the medina—I loved the activity in the square at nightfall. We feasted on *boubouch* and chickpeas with cumin, and always smoothies. We had to show great determination to avoid being pulled in every direction... but we couldn’t escape the *baptême*—the baby was 7 days old. Outfits were lent to us... the celebration happens in two parts: a party for the men in the afternoon and for the women in the evening. The chance to show off the most beautiful outfits and jewelry. It was really fun seeing women having a blast while the men of the house were outside in the garden waiting for the party to end (6 AM). Dinner was served at 2 AM... 🤪 I was thinking about the baby being shown off like a trophy in deafening music. What I didn’t like: seeing half-eaten bread thrown out with the trash. That didn’t sit right with me.

Friday morning, French-time meet-up with my cousin (punctual), and we visited my dad’s grave—he’s not buried in a cemetery but in a Zaouia (though I’m not sure). Visit to the family home and a hammam that opened in May 2017—it’s gorgeous, with the option for a private space. Of course, the place isn’t mixed—separate hours for men and women. I’ll share the address later, and I think it’s 15 DH per person... super clean. That’s it for Meknes. Saturday, the train to Rabat—left on time but took 4h30 instead of 2 hours!! The train was pulled by donkeys, but luckily, we had first-class tickets, so we were seated. 95 DH per person.

To be continued...

on prices cigarettes: I know it's not good to smoke but: 1 pack of Marlboro in Morocco 33 MAD At duty-free 28 € for a carton payable in euros 69 € for 3 cartons... don't try to outsmart customs.

The tram is very handy in Rabat-Salé: 6 MAD with a transfer allowed within an hour. There are 2 lines, which limits options. Casablanca: 8 MAD, or with a rechargeable card (costs 15 MAD) it's 6 MAD.

A Coke in a café: 8 to 10 MAD Fresh fruit smoothie: 10 to 25 MAD depending on the place and fruits. Black coffee: 7 to 15 MAD Bottle of water in a grocery store: large 6 MAD, small 3.50 MAD, Coke 5.50 MAD for half a liter. Sparkling water Oulmes isn't bad.

For food: Cheese panini with fries: 12 to 20 MAD Moroccan salad: 10 to 15 MAD or a big salad Grilled chicken: 10 MAD for 2 pieces (back + drumstick) (in the medina) Fresh orange juice: 5 to 12 MAD Watermelon: we paid 22 MAD for 8 kg. Zucchini, tomatoes: 5 MAD/kg Peaches, nectarines: 5 to 15 MAD Grapes: 5 to 10 MAD Round bread: 1 to 2 MAD. Prickly pears: 1 MAD Ice cream: 3 scoops for 10 to 35 MAD Italian ice cream: 1 to 6 MAD... Honey and sesame cakes, those twisted things... 750 g for 10 MAD Boubouch: 5 to 10 MAD per bowl Couscous: 22 to 70 MAD per person

Little tip for toilets: always carry tissues or wipes with you.

hi there The train, taxis, the bus... I’ve done this several times, and it often leads to great interactions. I’m thinking of one time when we got stuck during a bus strike—waiting in Ouarzazate for hours... then a stop in a village on the way to Merzouga! No hostels, but a young man invited us to his family’s home. Amazing welcome, good meal, comfy bed (and yes, good beers—they do drink a little alcohol), then the next day, a visit to the gorges (though the taxi was pricey)... more waiting... a walk through the palm groves... Really a different way to experience things... But since then, I rent a car, which lets us go where we want, when we want—and at my age, that’s a big plus! After crunching the numbers, when there are four of us in the car, the budget is pretty much the same! Anyway, thanks for your feedback! It must be moving to reconnect with your roots! francia

🙂 For food, I love everything on your list, except for boubouchs 😠—I just can’t do it! And yet I’ve tried 😉 Were there no more strawberries? In March, we feasted on strawberries and raspberries.

In order: Dakhla’s couscous Agadir’s raspberries Agadir’s salad Bennis’ gazelle horns in Casablanca Octopus tagine in Safi...

I don’t smoke, but I do eat 😏

Hi Francia,

Based on my calculations, I think the car becomes cost-effective for more than 2 people... and what freedom! As for the roots, it's just childhood memories... and also to show my daughter lots of things and landscapes, since I don’t have a great feeling about the Maghreb.

Personally, I’m not too confident about driving in the mountains... but I’ll do it one day! In cities like Meknes, though!!! Total maniacs! 😡 I thought I was going to die with a taxi! My daughter was folded in half! Not me!

We were lucky to meet a 21-year-old guy in Tinghir, an intern at the hostel "Retour au calme"... He speaks French and gets by in English, with some German and Spanish too. Originally from the mountains, from a family of 9 brothers... he had to fight to get the right to go to school. His parents live in a troglodyte house. Great for the AC!!! 😎 In primary school, he walked 3 hours a day; in middle school, 6 hours a day. In his second year, a French mission provided them with school transport. He’s now a high school graduate and wants to go to tourism school... and he’s saving up to pay his part. My Romy said: "And we complain about taking the bus for 500 meters!" It was a really lovely encounter.

To be continued!

Hi Beatrice,

No more strawberries or maybe frozen ones.. but the peaches and melon are so good. The gazelle horns pastries are too sweet for me... I prefer my grandma’s, she uses half the sugar. I’ll send you her recipe sometime... simple to make but time-consuming.

For food, I only mentioned the things I bought... because my favorite starter is felfla and matécha (peppers, tomatoes, garlic, olive oil, coriander, cumin, etc.) simmered and served cold or hot. I ate it with the family because they all passed the word around!

I only really liked the boubouch from Casa, at the place where my mom used to go in the 70s. The owner is still there, old and all hunched over... and he still recognized us. Sfeng are greasy but so good, same for msens.

Cheers,

A.

Great photos of delicious eats, as they say. Those little macarons (I think they're bitter almond macarons) are making me crave them, same with the salad & tagine!! 😛

those are gazelle horns, shaped like half-moons—delicious.

Uh, no way to the half-sugar version! For once I’m eating them (I only have them in Morocco), might as well go for the real recipe 😉

I love *boubouches* ;) Basically, I like almost everything except those new creamy pastries.

Oh, the hazelnut mille-feuille pastries in Tiznit—I loved them! 😉

Majorelle Garden day 2

refreshing without knowing how to take photos, the light and natural colors do it all

I can tell these are gazelle horns—I eat dozens of them (I’m more into sweet than savory) when I’m over there. It’s the cookies next to them that make me think of little bitter almond macarons. Is that what they are, or something else?

Oh yeah, macarons like you said ;) so good! :)

Hi Emeline,

I’m still reading your story. It’s going to be super helpful for anyone who wants to get a general idea of prices. I’m really enjoying the rest of it too. I’ll write a more detailed reply later. I’m still in Aragon—just as hot as Morocco. Yesterday it was 38°C… I’m melting, but luckily there’s AC in the room.

Good evening Hannah,

Take care of yourself! The heat was really tough for me... and my Romy suffered after making fun of me!!! It's true, I wrote a little section on costs... it was a real stress for me... just trying to live normally after coming back from vacation without crying... but I guess it's understandable, right? I didn’t want to think to myself on the way back, "How am I going to manage!!! I’ll never go away again." When I retire, I’ll travel whenever I want... but since I’m only 50, given the current situation, I’ll have to wait about 20 to 25 years for retirement!!!😕

My next trip will be solo!! No doubt about it! Playing guard dog for Romy really got on my nerves! Customs was a pain—interrogation, overzealous bag search for my carry-on on the way back... even asking my mom and daughter to step away.

I’ll post some photos soon...

I’m looking forward to your travel journal... you make every one of your getaways sound so tempting!

Best,

A.

So I’m replying to myself! I’ll post the photos out of order... just as I feel like it! On the road before arriving in Tinghir on 07/28, clean window in the bus!!



I thought it was a fortress! No, just rock! Impressive! At noon in the sun, you can feel the heat just by looking at the photo!

To be continued! A.

The drive to make things grow!!! It's the women who take it on!!! Brave and discreet. We were kindly asked to leave so as not to capture their hard work on camera...

Tinghir again



Didn’t want to show off!!! The peacock at the "Retour au calme" hostel—he’s still gorgeous though!! But I chased him around to get a photo...

@+

hi Hannah but what made you think of going to Spain in the middle of August? you’re retired, after all. 😏

Yes... but not my partner. Usually, September, but this year we had to go in August. Phew, I should’ve picked a rich old guy instead 🤪🤪

Don’t worry, this is often what’s missing in some travel journals: "how much it costs" ;) For the rest, I think it’s spot-on—no sugarcoating, no forced sentimentality, just your travel story and how you felt about it. I really enjoy reading your posts.

I really enjoyed reading your post. Everyone has their own perspective on Morocco, and that’s what makes it so interesting.

Yes... but not my partner. Usually September, but this year we had to go in August—phew! I should’ve picked an old rich guy 🤪🤪

Or a retired one! 😉

it was hot! but they still work the fields... it's the women who do the farming. It felt strange seeing this empty house. So many memories!!!!!! So much life, shouting, and smells of meals being prepared—because in Morocco, you eat all the time! Like many treasures, it’s unoccupied, but it’s a family heirloom... and the owner... can’t bring themselves to part with it. It’s the house of my late grandfather!

In 1967, one of the 4 open lounges

are the interior photos from your childhood home? It's gorgeous... has it stayed in your family? you must've had a big wave of nostalgia...

No, it's my grandfather's and then my uncle's house. I never lived there... just visited. It's been empty for 3 years! Yes, it still belongs to my uncle, which is how we were able to go there to take photos. But many well-off Moroccans prefer the comfort of a modern apartment while really wanting to keep the family property empty!😕 My daughter didn’t get it!! Best, A.

it’s still a really lovely house. with a bit of modern comfort, I’d happily move in 😎

What a stunning house, I’d almost call it a palace! I hope your daughter appreciated its true value, keeping it in the family.

it’s really comfortable there! Bathrooms like master suites upstairs, etc. big kitchen, etc.!

My cousin, who’s over 60 and grew up in that house, was surprised anyone would want to live there!

People with money want new places!!

Best,

A.

We had this in France too... And it’s still happening now. New houses next to beautiful farms, in my village.

We had this in France too... And still do. New houses next to beautiful farms, in my village.

Now the beautiful farms are being rehabilitated into housing. Some keep a lovely charm, but others, unfortunately, become "low-income housing" for rental profitability. That’s the case in my village. It’s really ugly and not very humane.

If it were just that... but in my area, beautiful farms are left abandoned. The region isn’t very touristy, so vacation rentals don’t work out 😕. Plus, there are no jobs, so no young population to get excited about the charm of old buildings. Instead, awful concrete blocks like Parisian suburbs are being built, while pretty houses crumble. Here, people would rather let them fall into ruin than lower the selling price and actually sell! Heartbreaking. 🤪

It was hot! But they still work the fields... it's the women who do the farming. It felt strange seeing this empty house. So many memories!!!! So much life, shouting, and smells of meals being prepared—because in Morocco, you eat all the time! Like many gems, it’s unoccupied, but it’s a family heirloom... and the owner... can’t bring themselves to part with it. It’s the house of my late grandfather!

In 1967, one of the 4 open living rooms

This house is stunning—such a shame it’s not lived in! Maybe a few updates are needed, but it’s so much better than those concrete apartment buildings where you have to install AC... and everything breaks down so fast! Another beautiful home that’ll end up crumbling like so many in the medinas, unless it’s sold to foreigners. Such a shame, but I get it—when I was younger, living on a farm in the countryside, I dreamed of the city, of an apartment with a bathroom, etc... At first, it was great!

It’s really quite sad, but in the 80s, many houses in the Marrakech medina that had been left abandoned were bought up by foreigners... Some Moroccans are outraged. Yet in more conservative cities, they hold on to them, even without the means to restore them. For this particular house (an old annex of a palace), that won’t be the case, as modern comforts have been added over the years. But so many others would cost more to restore than to build a new villa. In the medina, the houses are all connected.

Best,

A

Hi there,

After that, we headed to Rabat by train... the journey was really long. Another donkey-pulled train! We arrived late in the evening. The station is quite nice. The city is huge with all these new neighborhoods... it's clean! Hay Riad, where we stayed, is on the edge of the built-up area. Below the terrace, there’s a large garden with scattered shantytown-style housing. In three years, it’ll be upscale apartment buildings. We really liked what makes this city special. We did a lot on foot—it’s pleasant, especially Avenue de la Victoire in the morning. It’s lined with individual houses nestled in greenery, with wide, clean, well-maintained sidewalks. The houses aren’t new; they’re more from the colonial era. However, it’s impossible to get on or off the sidewalks with a wheelchair —I had to be careful with my wobbly leg. I loved the cleanliness of the medina. Construction workers start at 6 AM and work until the shops open around 11 AM. The alleys are wide, and it’s easy to get around, but after 5 PM, it’s chaos! The shopkeepers are really friendly. I didn’t haggle—if the price didn’t suit me, I just moved on! Many shops display their prices. I couldn’t resist the rows of jewelers (silver and marcasite). They let us browse without being pushy. Some vendors, though, saw us coming and quoted outrageous prices. When I didn’t accept, they’d ask, "How much can you pay?"—just give me a fair price! On the morning of my departure (a Friday), I took a walk through the medina. I made sure to have plenty of 1 MAD coins (6 minutes of Morocco’s minimum wage)... the beggars aren’t pushy at all. They sit and wait. You give and move on.

The Kasbah of the Udayas is so pretty—I only knew about the garden before. There are lots of cats, especially moms with their kittens!! It’s adorable, and I assume they’re cared for and fed because they’re not wild, they’re clean, and there aren’t too many... no smell at all!! The males must be kept away, and the waste is cleaned up. We climbed up the ramparts—it’s beautifully flowered with a lovely view of the Bou Regreg... some trash down below, but you just look up!

We also went to the neighborhood around Moulay Youssef Hospital—it’s working-class but not poor. We saw so many small tailor artisans!! I sew, and my mom embroiders... so we loved admiring the work of these men. Their creations are made to order only. In the early evening, we walked through the market in this neighborhood! The stalls were gorgeous... even nicer than in the medina—it was lovely! Girl thing—we tried a beauty salon... super clean and cheap with our currency. Eyebrows: 15 MAD, individual false lashes: 100 MAD, blowout for short hair: 20 MAD, 30 MAD for long hair, etc. Prices are displayed.

The beach—my cousin drove my daughter and me to Bouznika Beach. It’s not for everyone!!! Just California-style houses with guards... and gated community entrances. You have to arrive in a clean, recent car, I suppose. The beach wasn’t overcrowded and was peaceful—no one bothering us. Lots of Moroccan women in their fifties in bikinis alongside others in burkinis... but it’s a wealthy, guarded beach... no Europeans or foreigners. Afterward, we ate not far from there. You choose your meat, it’s weighed and cooked... then you sit down and are served! The place was nice, close to the beach... I loved the cooking smells. Don’t hesitate to pack up any leftovers (if they look presentable) in a plastic bag to give to those who have nothing. That’s Rabat for you.

To be continued—I’m waiting for photos taken by my daughter. A.

hi,

Personally, I play the lottery every week!!! just in case one day they decide to sell... because they’ll never sell to a non-Moroccan! Like many places in Meknes. No invaders here! In this part of the medina, we went around in djellabas and covered with a shawl. Best,

A.

Hi there,

Personally, I play the lottery every week!!! just in case one day they decide to part with it.... because they’ll never sell to a non-Moroccan! Like many places in Meknes. No invaders here! In this part of the medina, we went there wearing djellabas and covered with a shawl. Best, y A.

I should’ve played the lottery too to keep my parents’ farm... because it was bought by real estate dealers who resold it to Turks.... who turned it into 4 apartments just to make a profit. We’re being invaded by foreigners 😉 who are as strong as Turks. But there’s nothing pleasant left in these villages.

This is often the case when those who have money don’t mean well, and those who care about doing good don’t have the funds!!!

We saw it with grandpa’s house (his parents’ and grandparents’ place) that was sold— Not torn down, and small with some land, the current owner now sees it as their family home (for them, their kids, and grandkids). It makes me happy, all the same.

Best,

A.

That’s often the case when those who have money don’t mean well, and those who mean well don’t have the money!!!

We saw it too with grandpa’s house (his parents’ and grandparents’)—sold, not torn down, small with land. The current owner considers it his family home (for him, his kids, and grandkids). It makes me happy, all the same.

Best, A.

That’s great! For me, it’s not the case—the apartments are rented, and since it’s expensive, tenants change very often. But hey, it’s just material stuff.

Some really beautiful restorations in the area done by the English. Lovely restorations in the Dordogne, mainly by the English and Dutch. The former owners sold up to move away, not necessarily to build nearby. Young people setting up there often can’t afford to renovate the farms, so they invest in equipment instead.

Back to the topic—it’s understandable that some earthen ksars in Morocco are being abandoned, but Emeline’s uncle’s house really does make you dream.

It belonged to my grandfather, who had 7 children (still living) and 49 grandchildren... and after that, I’ve lost count!!!! It was a guest house annexed to the Pasha’s palace in the city back in the 1930s. For me, it was my grandparents’ house where generations and lots of maids used to mix. Inheritances, no matter the country!!!!!!!😕 It’s complicated. And personally, I know that some of these beautiful homes have been transformed—the real zellige tiles are being replaced with patterned tiles. They don’t have a choice because to meet certain standards, changes are necessary. In this house, there were 4 huge, elongated salons (at least 15m x 3m) with zellige tiles, stucco (sculpted plaster), and carved cedar ceilings. Plus, on the upper floor, at least one proper bedroom with a luxury bathroom, and tons of tiny cubbyholes that were used as bedrooms. But I don’t think I know everything about this lovely home! A big (huge) kitchen where, in my memory, at least 8 women were bustling around daily (including little maids as young as 10), far from the grandeur of the rest of the house. Plus other smaller rooms for cooking hot and cold meals. It hasn’t changed! The kitchen is empty of any activity now, but just like in my memory.

Those who hold the know-how to restore these places are no longer simple craftsmen but "master artisans," and few people can afford their services.

There were lots of cold-water taps to allow everyone to perform their ablutions. The hammam (shower) was always outside.

This house in 1967... I wasn’t born yet (-30 days). My grandmother is in blue, my great-aunt, and a housekeeper. (Photo taken by my French grandfather.) He had traveled to see what kind of "savage country" his daughter was going to live in. 😏

That’s all for Meknes because we’ve taken plenty of photos that take a bit longer to load. @+