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Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 Weeks in South Africa, September 2017 (page 1 of 8)

Discussion started by Michel85200 on 2017-09-28

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Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 Weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Michel85200 · 2017-09-28 · Message 1 of 156

Hi everyone...

Must be around 5,000 photos to sort through!

Makes sense after 3 intense weeks in SA.

Anyway, to set the mood, here are a few photos... Well, yeah, they’re not amazing!

Suspense, suspense...






Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Gallup · 2017-09-28 · Message 2 of 156

Hi Michel,

I can't wait to hear the rest of your adventures...............

Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Michel85200 · 2017-09-28 · Message 3 of 156

So then... For those who’ve been following and the newcomers, Southern Africa has been my favorite destination since the 2000s. I’d left it at that (aside from Namibian experiences in the North and South, along the Orange River and in KTP)...

Not all in one go, don’t worry—I took it at a pretty slow pace, even getting slower as I ventured further off the beaten path.

This year’s goal was to fill in part of the "gap" north of PE. Mrs. Attila and Mr. Voyajou had already piqued my curiosity about this region... I had to see it for myself.

So here’s the 2017 route: (and since the map won’t load, I’ll write it out)

www.google.fr/...58!2d-33.7139247!3e0

Port Elizabeth / Mountain Zebra for 3 nights and a cheetah tracking session... passing through Slagtersnek. 3 nights in Graaff-Reinet (at Drostdy)... Just to admire Valley of Desolation morning and evening... The thing is, this stop could’ve been a tad shorter since the wildlife in Camdeboo was desperately dry and dull... so I spent a second day in Nieu Bethesda and the surrounding area. 3 nights in Karoo NP, initially at Afsaal Cottage... 2 nights in Die Hel (Fontein guest farm), passing through Meiringspoort Pass and De Rust / Oudtshoorn. 2 nights in Knysna (Undermilkwood, obviously). One night in Willowmore at the Willowmore Historical GH (via Prince Alfred Pass and Uniondale). 3 nights in Baviaanskloof at Sederkloof Lodge (that’s the luxury stop). One night in Patensie at Ripple Hill. And... a return to PE airport via a little stretch of coast at Cape St Francis.

Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Michel85200 · 2017-09-28 · Message 4 of 156

In September in this area... It’s still chilly... kind of warm during the day (15 to 20 °C) and cold at night (5 to 15 °C). That’s usually the case... except some days hit 35 °C! The weather is unpredictable... Will it rain? Won’t it rain? Wind and cold snaps with a bit of rain, 2 days out of 3 in Karoo NP. *Nacht und Nebel* in Knysna... and especially on the day of the Prince Alfred Pass. Cold wind every evening in Baviaans with clouds...

This isn’t primarily a wildlife route... Mountain Zebra is known for... well, mountain zebras, the Karoo for its landscapes, and Baviaans for its baboons. It’s a scenic views and scenic roads trip. Sedan vehicles won’t have much fun once you leave the main roads... in my case, a proper 4x4 is necessary and mandatory. Loving to drive is a must—even if you don’t cover many kilometers, the drives are often long!

Are the "a priori" assumptions always accurate?

This is an area where Zulu isn’t widely spoken—it’s mostly Afrikaans... I can confirm that, and where non-white populations are more "coloured" than Black (I’ll come back to this).

Me, I don’t camp! That’s final!

I did my trip solo, no tour operator... directly with most of the hosts. The guidebooks (Fodor’s, *Alone on the Planet*, or so-called "on the road" ones) don’t know much about this area. And sometimes even about South Africa in general... though I’ll admit the Lonely Planet has really improved over the last 20 years... Flew into Cape Town, then PE. Return: PE / Joburg / Paris. Rented from Hertz South Africa. The Hilux 4x4 with canopy needs to be booked by phone... as mentioned on their site. The car was waiting as promised. Less than 9,500 R for 3 weeks... not bad!

Okay, the chatty intro is done...

Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Michel85200 · 2017-09-29 · Message 5 of 156

A bit of history

To understand this country, I think it’s essential to take off our European glasses and learn a little about its history.

You’ll see that knowing this background isn’t useless, and I’ll do my best to keep it from being too boring.

In short: (we’ll come back to this) The Portuguese tried to sail along and cross the African continent from the early 15th century. Why? To find the spice route (India, China) blocked by the Arabs, to find the path to Cipango (Japan), and to locate the mythical Christian kingdom of Prester John. In 1488, Diaz succeeded by discovering the Cape, which he named the Cape of Good Hope... Later, the Cape region was discovered... around Christmas, hence the name Natal in KwaZulu-Natal.

For the Portuguese, the goal was simply to create a supply stop between the eastern lands (India, Java)... scurvy made it necessary (they often lost half the crew between Portugal and Cape Town).

Who was in the region?

The Khoï people (herders) and the San people (hunters). They weren’t Black but brown. No comparison!

Nearly two centuries passed... The Dutch took over in Asia (they never managed to retake Mozambique) and founded a private company, the VOC (similar to the British East India Company). A private company that set all the rules for life, settlement, etc... They were strict Calvinists, very strict. Van Riebeeck arrived... The goal was to establish a company for resupplying ships on the route to Java. That was the only aim. Meat, fresh produce, and... wine!

Little by little, but very slowly, Cape Town expanded... Contact with the local population? More or less a trading relationship with occasional friction, and a colonizer/colonized dynamic. We mustn’t forget that this initial white population was Calvinist... Based on a literal reading of the Old Testament, a book that answered all their questions! For them, the Bible was given to mankind, written in Dutch. It defined the chosen people—*them*—and the people who, according to Scripture, were there to serve them... the others, the "non-whites."

The strict rules of the VOC increasingly frustrated Dutch farmers. Some set off on adventures, rifle in hand, ox-drawn wagon... and the Bible. Eastward or northward.

Then the British arrived...

Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Michel85200 · 2017-09-29 · Message 6 of 156

It’s the early 19th century, the British have already provisionally annexed the province, and they do so permanently after Napoleon’s defeat.

The British define themselves as "liberal, tolerant, open-minded, and cultured." The Boers are described as "stubborn, uncultured, racist, and excessively religious."

The rules change, especially regarding "inferior races"...

A Boer rebellion is crushed. Five are sentenced to death. On the day of the execution, when the gallows are activated, four ropes snap! Tradition says it was "the hand of God" that broke the ropes, so the condemned should be pardoned... But the English captain won’t hear of it... the four men are given new ropes around their necks, and this time, they don’t break!

The phrase "remember Slagtersnek" is deeply embedded in Boer tradition.

For them, it symbolizes the injustice and cruelty of the British.

That was the last straw... the shift in power, the laws governing the rights of the Black population... It marked the beginning of the Great Trek...

Before 1815 (roughly), the furthest advance was Grahamstown, and even that was recent.

Contact with the Xhosa was still limited.

Afterward came the great leap toward Upington, Bloemfontein, Pretoria, Durban, Pietermaritzburg... And the major clashes with the Xhosa and Zulu.

Slagtersnek (or Butchersnek):

Today, on the road between PE and Cradock



A monument by the side of this road... almost abandoned.









Note to readers:

I’m telling a story... in my own way. See it only as my attempt to share what I’ve come to understand about this country, nothing more, nothing less.

Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Michel85200 · 2017-09-29 · Message 7 of 156

Safety and mountain zebras

We arrive in Cradock. A small town at the end of the straight road.









This little rural South African town... almost a caricature.

Midday, Saturday... how about lunch?





But that’s not why we’re posting, is it?

Notice...

A very ordinary façade, almost nothing visible—you have to know or guess that it’s a restaurant...

Besides... the door is gated... there’s a doorbell so someone can let you in... there’s a "guard" to watch the entrance and customers’ cars...

The restaurant is at the back with an outdoor terrace...

It’s a small town... safe... yet we still take precautions... paranoid or not?

We move on...



The beast and its driver are itching for some gravel.





The entrance to MZ...

It’s starting to smell like a game drive...






Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Rouquine38 · 2017-09-29 · Message 8 of 156

Hi Michel, Since I missed the other travel journals "that I’ve all read since," I’ll follow this one from the start now that I’m hooked on Southern Africa 😉. Plus, they’re so packed with info—and on top of that, a little history that never hurts to better understand a country 😛. When I see the map tracing all the routes from your different trips in South Africa, I’m blown away and can only tip my hat to the expert 😏. Thanks for sharing this, Isabelle

Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Michel85200 · 2017-09-29 · Message 9 of 156

Hi there and thanks...

It's true that in 15 years I've been to this country a lot... I must be a bit crazy, but I caught the South Africa bug back in 2000 and since then...

Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Muriel18 · 2017-09-30 · Message 10 of 156

Hi Michel

I’m joining too—looks like there’s room in the car 😎. Muriel

Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Michel85200 · 2017-09-30 · Message 11 of 156

Welcome!

Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Michel85200 · 2017-09-30 · Message 12 of 156

Mountain Zebra:

The protection of this zebra is the original purpose of this park.

The basic Hartmann’s model without the options...

Brown stripes between the black stripes

Small ears without stripes

Stripes extending to the abdomen

Black muzzle

Quite large







The mountain one

Smaller, orange muzzle, ears with stripes, skin fold at the neck, and no intermediate stripes or stripes extending to the abdomen.






Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Michel85200 · 2017-09-30 · Message 13 of 156

Game drive

MZ offers plenty of opportunities for game drives.

The animals...

Mainly...

Kudus, springboks, blue wildebeest


















Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Muriel18 · 2017-09-30 · Message 14 of 156

Wow, for someone like me who’s only seen bits of southern Africa in April, the landscapes look super dry! Muriel

Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Michel85200 · 2017-09-30 · Message 15 of 156

In this part, still no rain!

So very dry...

We met some South Africans who came from the West Coast... No flower season yet because there hasn’t been any rain. More dryness ahead... with a few explanations.

Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Michel85200 · 2017-09-30 · Message 16 of 156

Still on game drive























Le Piaf is a Blue Crane The iconic bird in SA

Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Grandvoyage2 · 2017-09-30 · Message 17 of 156

Game drive

MZ offers plenty of opportunities for game drives.

The animals...

Mainly...

Kudus, springboks, black wildebeest (also called white-tailed gnu)



















This park is absolutely stunning... One of my favorites ;) Just FYI, the brown wildebeest is actually called the white-tailed gnu or black wildebeest.

Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Michel85200 · 2017-09-30 · Message 18 of 156

Still on a game drive

Gemsbok





Red Hartebeest



And around a bend in the road

A caracal on the hunt




Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Michel85200 · 2017-09-30 · Message 19 of 156

Sitemba:

For a little over a year now, I’ve been trying to learn Zulu.

At first glance, I’m starting to get the hang of it… Obviously, it’s a bit tough practicing in France and knowing if my accent is any good… (I know, I’m a bit nuts.) So… one of my goals was to speak Zulu.

We start at the airport, in the line for customs… Sawubona, unjani?... And people respond…

Less luck with the customs officer…

The taxi driver in CT… no luck, he’s from Zim… The next day, another driver… pure Xhosa…

Frustration… Made up for by the look on the server’s face at CT airport during our early morning departure… eyes wide… and he can’t believe it!

Well, my basic Zulu isn’t so bad after all!

When picking up the car… no luck again… the lady’s pure Xhosa…

NB: 11 official languages in South Africa. English is the most universal. Then the African language of origin… depending on the ethnic group. And Afrikaans. Plus several dialects…

In the Western Cape and Eastern Cape, Zulu isn’t the main language. English, Afrikaans, and Xhosa are the three most spoken languages… we’ll come back to that later.

We booked a cheetah tracking experience at MZ.

Early in the morning, the guide arrives and catches me off guard by shaking my hand.

« Sitemba » « … » « Sitemba » « Sitemba »

He’s surprised. I haven’t yet realized it’s his first name, but I repeat it well… and it shocks him.

(Sitemba = we hope… which can be translated as a first name like "Desired")

He explains that he’s Xhosa, so Zulu… isn’t really his thing.

But still, we’ll chat a bit several times. You can’t imagine his face seeing a French guy with his bad English, trying out Zulu.

And the looks from the South Africans in the car…

Wild Eastern and Western Cape, 3 weeks in South Africa, September 2017

Magryelle · 2017-09-30 · Message 20 of 156

Thanks for this travel journal. We just got back from 4 weeks in Southern Africa and loved it. We go several times a year to explore countries or parts of countries in Southern Africa, and we’re always amazed—we love it! If you're in the area, we really enjoyed the Drakensberg, the Tsitsa Falls Backpackers near Maclear, the Cederberg (even though the flowers weren’t in bloom), the West Coast, and more... Safe travels!

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