Two weeks in Malaysia in September 2017

Hi there,

Here’s our account of our trip to Malaysia from September 11th to 27th. I hope our tips can help others as much as this forum has helped us!

Day 0:

Departure from Nantes with a transfer in Amsterdam via KLM (720 €).

Day 1:

We arrive at KLIA1 in the early afternoon. First challenge: figuring out where to pick up our luggage. Turns out the answer is right under our noses—we need to take the airport’s internal metro! Once we’ve got our bags, we withdraw some cash from a Maybank ATM right there. Next up: SIM card! Just outside the arrivals hall, several kiosks offer them. We go for a Celcom 5 GB card (70 RM). Then it’s taxi time to get to KL, in the Bukit Bintang area—about 85 RM in a slightly old taxi with weak air conditioning. We check into our Airbnb apartment, which is clean, more spacious than a hotel room, and—best of all—has a charming balcony with a gorgeous nighttime view!



We end up hanging out on that balcony, reviewing our plans for the next day. After dark, we take the monorail just a short walk away to enjoy our first evening on a rooftop at the 34th floor: Hélipad (Raja Chulan station—you have to enter the Menara Tower at the base of the station) with a panoramic view of the city and its iconic towers.





Finally, we head to Jalan Alor to grab a bite in this super busy street. Big sleep ahead! 😴

Day 2:

Great night’s sleep—we don’t feel the 6-hour time difference at all. Breakfast in the apartment, then we head to the nearby metro station (Hang Tuah) to get to the Batu Caves via KL Sentral.

We discover this Malaysian quirk: there are signs, but not *too* many! 🤪Grab tokens (yes, actual tokens you scan at the gate to enter and leave in a slot to exit the station) for a direct trip: easy enough. But as soon as you need to change lines (meaning you have to leave the metro zone to reach another one)… disaster! You have to exit, cross a street, enter a mall, and get lost following arrows that make no sense whatsoever. Anyway, we eventually catch the train and finally arrive!

It’s crowded, and there’s construction in the main cave, but the impressive statues and the monkeys—so confident they’re almost cocky—leave us grinning like idiots the whole time.







After we’ve had our fill of exploring and worked up an appetite, we decide to take the train back to Bandar Tasik Selatan station to buy our bus tickets for the Cameron Highlands the day after tomorrow.

Another adventure on the spot—still the same issue with directions! Finally, in the huge hall packed with ticket counters, a guy spots us (or rather, spots our distress, I’d say 😄) and shows us what to do (basically, queue up at any counter to pick a time, company, and seats). 35 RM per person for the trip.

We grab a bite there, then head to Chinatown to wander around a bit. Nothing much to say about this area—we weren’t too impressed.

In the evening, we go back to Jalan Alor for dinner and pick the restaurant “Mickey” at the very south end of the street. We order several dishes to share—really good and not too expensive.



Tomorrow’s plan: elephant sanctuary!

Day 3:

After packing our backpacks, we're ready for today's adventure: heading to the Kuala Gandah Elephant Sanctuary, about 1.5 hours from KL.

Travel agencies will offer tours with pickup from your hotel, but we preferred the "homemade" option that day—it cost us three times less!

So here’s a quick tutorial to get there:

Get to the "Titiwangsa" metro station: lines 3, 4, or the monorail terminus. Cross the pedestrian bridge over the road, and you’ll find a bus station.



Ask which counter you need to go to for Lanchang—the closest stop to the sanctuary. Buy your tickets (around 10 RM per person) and wait. A bus leaves every hour (9 AM, 10 AM, 11 AM…). We took the 11 AM one and arrived in Lanchang around noon.

Once you get off the bus, if no one approaches you right away, head to the small shop right in front of the stop.



They offer to take you there and pick you up later for 60 RM round trip. Before leaving, we grabbed a bite: a full plate and a big glass of iced water each for 8 RM for two.



Before heading out, make sure to buy your return tickets to KL. You can do this at a phone shop a little further down.





On-site: contrary to what some travel agencies claim on their websites, entry isn’t paid. It’s a care center funded by the Malaysian government and donations. You can have a guide for a group of up to 10 people: 50 RM for the group. If you want to bathe with a young elephant and give it a little sand scrub: 10 RM per person, and a guide is mandatory.

We loved this day. We refuse to set foot in zoos or marine parks, and nothing shocked us at the sanctuary. You can watch the bath, help with feeding, hear the stories of some elephants, and see how they give a giant bottle to the youngest calf (who no longer has its mother). The guides are super friendly, and the visitor-guide interactions aren’t commercial (there’s nothing to sell). We couldn’t resist the final bath, and it was a truly magical moment.

Quick tips: if you want to bathe, bring a towel, soap, and a change of clothes.

That evening, we ate on Jalan Alor at a Thai restaurant I don’t recommend, across from "Mickey’s." A Chinese procession passed through the street during our meal—I heard it was to celebrate the devil. Firecrackers and colors guaranteed!





Day 4: Departure from KL for the Cameron Highlands

Day 4:

We leave our Airbnb apartment and head to Bandar Tasik Selatan station to catch our bus to the Cameron Highlands at 10 AM.

You need to arrive 30 minutes before the scheduled time and wait in the ground-floor waiting room. The bus leaves on time, and off we go for a 3.5-hour ride! The first part of the trip isn’t interesting at all: Nutella fields for hundreds of kilometers. 😕 The second part is more exciting as we climb the mountain (not on the edge of a cliff, phew!) through lush vegetation with a series of twists and turns. Don’t forget your motion sickness meds if you’re sensitive to it! 😉

Arriving in Tanah Rata… uh… well, it’s ugly. Zero charm, a main street dedicated to commerce, depressing buildings, and cars everywhere.

We had booked at Father’s Guest House: friendly welcome, clean, and the sheltered outdoor areas will come in handy!

We’re starving, so we walk down the street and pick a small Indian restaurant that doesn’t look like much but has tempting buffet-style dishes. Good and cheap.

We book the bus to the Perhentians for the day after tomorrow (125 RM/person, round-trip boat tickets included) and drop off our dirty laundry at a laundromat.

The rain that started when we arrived has gotten worse, so we scrap the idea of going for a walk and head back to the guest house instead. We treat ourselves to a very British snack with tea and scones… and some proper French butter!



The rain turns into a full-blown storm, forcing us to retreat to our room. By 7 PM, it’s still pouring, and we start thinking about leaving the next morning (which won’t be possible).

To cheer ourselves up, we go for a "steamboat" at Ferm Nyonya



(you’d better be really hungry!!) and grab a beer at the pub on the corner next door.

Tomorrow’s plan (if the sky ever stops dumping rain): BOH tea plantation

Day 5:

The sky is clear today! While yesterday we were wearing fleece jackets and vests, today we're in t-shirts.

After breakfast at the guest house, we set off to find a taxi to take us to the BOH tea plantation (the northern one, with its terrace and factory tour) because we wanted to go at our own pace and weren’t interested in the butterfly farm or strawberry fields. The taxi driver offers to be our guide for the morning (80 RM). He’s very cheerful, and since we weren’t sure we’d find our way back easily, we accept.

We leave at 9 AM, and luckily so—by 10 AM, it’s already traffic-jammed! (Probably worse because it’s Saturday.) We admire the tea field landscapes, make a few photo stops, and our guide drops us off in the parking lot. We have to climb a few steps before reaching the building.



There’s an explanatory exhibit and then a factory to “visit,” but you’ll finish in 5 minutes because there’s almost nothing to see! We stop by the shop for a souvenir and head to the cafeteria for a tasting. We find a spot on the terrace and enjoy the view while savoring a strawberry tartlet and some tea.



The downside? It’s packed in the cafeteria.



And the living conditions of the plantation workers.



Back in Tanah Rata for lunch, we decide to check out the Barracks Cafe, with its World War II-era recycled buildings. The food’s good (yum, those stuffed buns!), but it’s not exactly cheap.



For the afternoon, a short walk: Robinson Falls. Super well-signposted, like everything else. The walk is short once you find the entrance, but not recommended after rain—the dead leaves make the steps really slippery!



The waterfall is pretty… Well, nothing spectacular, either.



In the evening, we eat at another Indian restaurant on the corner—less tasty and more expensive than the one from the night before.



Tomorrow’s plan: trip to Pulau Perhentian Besar

Day 6:

We’re ready to take the minibus that’s picking us up in front of the guesthouse at 10 AM. An hour and a half later, we’ve only gone 10 or 15 km—those infamous traffic jams I mentioned earlier. 🙁 Finally, once we pass the BOH tea junction, we’re alone on the highway! A group returning from Taman Negara is waiting for us to transfer to a big bus—after grabbing a quick bite.

Around 5:30 PM, we arrive in Kuala Besut and notice the organizers have had excellent herding-dog training. 😛 We have to line up to sign a register with our passport numbers, then a guy *insists* that a few of us (including us two) do something with a young man on a moped?! Finally, it clicks! « Fodega » = « follow the guy » 😏 So, loaded with our luggage, we follow the young man on his moped for 200 meters (baaaaa)

Then it’s the counter to pay the marine park tax (30 RM/person), and we’re allowed to pass the barrier separating us from the boats. The 30-minute crossing doesn’t leave me with a great memory at all—it gets pretty rough at times! But finally, the Perhentians!

We’re the first to get off, dropped at the dock in front of our guesthouse. Night is falling, but we’re already enchanted. Our bungalow has a terrace facing the sea that delights us (230 RM/night).





Here we go for 7 days and 8 nights!

No one seems excited 😐 but just to clarify, I can't write the rest of the trip right now because our internet connection is having some issues.

I definitely plan to continue as soon as it's fixed 🙂

And here I am, grumbling at those who read my travel journals and never say a word—well, I did the same thing!! So mea culpa, I’m following you, I love it, and I’m really interested in what comes next (just to see if the Perhentians have changed since we were there a few years ago ;)). And it’s always great to have travelers who share their experiences instead of just people who come to grab info!! So thank you so much, Servane, and see you soon! 😎 Christelle

On the contrary! I can’t wait to read the rest because I’m slowly planning a 17-day trip to Malaysia in November-December... :) So go ahead as soon as you’re back to civilization! 🙂

Thanks for your encouragement, it’s really nice! 🙂 The line’s fixed today, so I’m carrying on!

Day 7:

Our stay on Perhentian Besar starts under a gorgeous sky and perfectly clear, deliciously warm water.

We decide to head to Teluk Keke beach, all the way south on the west side of Besar. To get there, we have to cross a first bridge by the rocks.



We pass a little hut serving cold drinks and tasty, super affordable meals for the islands (e.g., two noodle dishes and two cold drinks: 18 RM).



We cross another bridge and go through the camping beach (littered with trash—it’s heartbreaking), and finally:



Not much sandy space at high tide, but the snorkeling is pretty great, especially when you head toward the point and follow the rocks. By the way, after just a few minutes in shallow water, our first encounter 😮:



And later, near the reefs, a (very) brief appearance by two blacktip reef sharks, plus the sight of two more turtles (though farther away) swimming together... 😏 A fantastic morning—we head back just as the first snorkeling boats bring in swimmers wearing life jackets.

The day’s unpleasant surprise, though: I’d remembered to protect my back from the sun by swimming in a T-shirt, but the sunscreen wasn’t enough for my backside, which turned a lovely tomato red 🤪 and had me groaning every time I had to sit down. The next day, I invested in lycra swim pants (40 RM at the hotel’s souvenir shop—handy being on vacation in a Muslim country).

In the evening, like every evening, it’s happy hour at Tuna Bay (which serves alcohol), with a view of the little island across the way and its very pretty stilted mosque.

(poor-quality photo since it was taken from far away and on the evening of our arrival)

Days 8 to 14:

The days go by and are so gentle on the eyes and the heart.

Worth noting:

The bridge connecting Abdul’s beach to the beach bar was hit by the storm on the second night! It’s destroyed at both ends, so be very careful.





I’d planned to do some scuba diving (my husband is level 1 and I’m level 2), and when we went to sign up at Universal Diver (past Tuna Bay), my husband met one of those little squirrels you see everywhere jumping from tree to tree. Except this one wasn’t shy at all!



And as we left, a little family stripping a frangipani tree, totally ignoring our presence:



Scuba diving was my biggest disappointment of the trip. I wanted to do it every day because the prices are really good (130 RM for the “refresh” dive to get back into it, and 80 to 90 RM for the next ones, depending on how many you do), but I stopped after two because we found the seabeds 10 times more beautiful and with more wildlife just snorkeling!

Another day, we ventured into the jungle to reach the south side of the island. To find the path, you have to go past the campsite and spot the toilets… There’s a tiny sign in the middle of the vegetation (did I say Malaysia’s signs are top-notch?). Off we go for 45 minutes of sweating. We’d picked a “cooler” day for this adventure, but I’ve never seen so much sweat dripping from my nose. The mosquitoes quickly joined in, so it was more of a grueling walk than anything else. And not a single animal spotted that day! The south beach isn’t pretty or clean, and the snorkeling is just as bad, so I’d avoid it.

I’d heard that PIR Beach on the north side of the island is the most beautiful, so we decided to check it out another day. It takes a while because you have to find where to cross (hum, ), and do a short jungle walk (the mosquito repellent is in the bag this time! ). On that side, there are one or two hotels that seem pretty nice, but no beach.

Finally, we arrive at PIR Beach, and it’s a letdown. It’s not maintained, past the hotel there’s a disgusting stagnant pond, and it’s a dumping spot for beginner swimmers.





The snorkeling is way less fun than in Teluk Keke’s waters, but luckily we had a wonderful encounter that made the day special:

Days 8 to 14 (continued):

On the list of critters we encountered:

A small monitor lizard—I only saw its back legs because it bolted when we passed (my god, those things are fast!)

A giant grasshopper on the beach (my husband has big hands)





A... a thing... Indescribable... on a coconut tree trunk at sunset, right in front of our little terrace. And suddenly, the creature leaped to the neighboring tree, gliding on membranes between its front legs and torso: a flying squirrel!

Recap of these 7 days on Besar:

I read everywhere that 3 or 4 days were enough on the island, otherwise you’d get bored. Yet our 7 days were packed—snorkeling (+++), walks, naps, dives… We could’ve easily filled two more days without any frustration.

Restaurants are pricey compared to the peninsula. I’d budgeted a generous 30 €/day for 2 people, but we still slightly exceeded it with aperitifs and a couple of "grilled seafood" evenings that hit the wallet harder. You eat really well, and it’s easy to switch spots depending on your cravings, as long as you stay on the same beach.

To move around, there are "taxi boat" stands everywhere, competing with each other. On the south beach, no competition and the prices are sky-high in comparison (30 RM for 2 people for a 5-minute ride). We only took one because, honestly, I hate motorboats that slam against every wave. 🤪

Little pleasures:

Drinking watermelon juice at breakfast.

Watching, in hysterics, every evening at aperitif time, a man on a bike (???!) striking poses at the end of a pier while his wife (on foot) cheers him on. (Note: there are no roads on these islands—you get around on foot along the beach, through the jungle, or by boat. So why a bike??)



Letting your other half grab the breakfast tray before you get up, then eating while gazing at the sea before everyone else wakes up…



And to put it all in context: a map of the beaches and hotels.



Finally, a little tip for those like us who enjoy a cold beer without moving: We bought a 5-liter keg of beer in Kuala Lumpur (115 RM, I think). It’s heavy and bulky (especially if you’re backpacking!), but it fits perfectly in the mini-fridges of hotels. 😄 I’m a little embarrassed, but we really loved this little luxury just for us!

Day 14:

7:30 AM: We leave our bungalow and our king-sized bed to have one last breakfast on Abdul’s terrace.

The water taxi picks us up as planned at 8 AM, and we stop to pick up a few more passengers. By 8:40 AM, we’re on solid ground in Kuala Besut and head off to find a taxi to take us to Kota Bharu, where we have a flight at noon.

The taxi driver offers the ride for 70 RM, and off we go on a trip worthy of a rally race! It was a close call, but we made it first! 😄

Along the way, we spot a large monitor lizard finishing its road crossing, and a temple where I manage to photograph a spectacular statue—pure luck.



By 9:30 AM, we’re at the airport and alive. 😛

Nothing much to report there, except that a security officer wanted us to take a spray bottle out of our checked luggage and explain what it was. Awkward moment—and in hindsight, pretty risky—where I had to explain and even mime what it was for. Since he didn’t understand ("water spray when it's very hot"), and as a last resort, I sprayed a little water on his hand. Uh, well, he jumped like it was a terrorist attack, but thankfully, he got it and didn’t throw us in jail. Note to self: think twice before spraying anything on airport security agents. 😊

Finally, we board our AirAsia flight to KL (20 euros per person, with 25 kg of checked baggage—spring promotion). One-hour flight.

Hi there, Thanks for this generously illustrated feedback! 😎 You really enjoyed yourselves, and I get why you wanted to share some of your favorite moments. For the subway in KL, the explanation is simple: the lines were built by different operators and aren’t interconnected. A bit like the French railways before the S.N.C.F. P.S.: That gas canister trick really made me laugh. I’d probably just put juice in the fridge and look for a Chinese shop—or a 7/11—last minute for beer. 😉

Ah, thanks for explaining the metro lines! It all makes sense now! 🙂

The keg was bought in KL for the stay on the island, since there are no Chinese shops or 7/11s there (or if there are, they're very well hidden!!) You can buy cans of Tiger beer at the restaurant of ?? (north of Tuna Bay) for 11 RM, though...

As for the generously illustrated story, it's first because I love reading them when I'm preparing a trip (especially blogs), and second because someone pointed out during my first story that it lacked photos... There you go, it's fixed

Days 14 and 15:

Arrival at KLIA2 after a one-hour flight.

To take a taxi this time, you have to go to a counter that charges based on the number of bags (so you pre-pay, no meter). It’ll be more expensive this time (120 RM to Bukit Bintang) but much more comfortable!

Our driver was charming and gave us his card, so I’m sharing his details (he doesn’t just do airport trips): Faizal: phone number: +60166557036

So, in the early afternoon, we checked into our last hotel. This one’s special because it’s a 4-star—our little splurge of the trip for 68 euros a night, including breakfast. 😄





After a nap, we headed to the Petronas Towers and their shopping mall to pick up souvenirs for our teenage daughter.

To avoid getting squashed (KL isn’t pedestrian-friendly at all!), we went through the Pavilion Mall next door and walked through the tunnels. Nothing much to say about the Twin Towers’ mall (I’m not buying Chanel or Dior for my daughter), but the ads for purple chips in the tunnel were hilarious (well, they made me laugh! 😏)



Put off by this out-of-reach shopping, we postponed it until the next day. In the meantime, we had a drink at the hotel.



One last dinner on Jalan Alor at a great restaurant almost across from Mickey.



And a magical swim in the rooftop pool (with a bar) at the hotel.



The next day, after a luxurious shower, we set off for more shopping!

We went to Berjaya Time Square, and as we feared, aside from durian candies (disgusting but our daughter loves them), we could only find junk to bring her. We were still amazed by the 9 floors and the amusement park in this mall! 😮





We grabbed a bite, left our bags at the hotel, and headed to the grand mosque for one of our last visits. I’ll spare you the hassle of getting there 😇. There, we found out the visit wouldn’t be possible for another hour, so we walked to the KL City Gallery, passing by the very pretty textile museum.

The heat made us crave ice cream more than a visit. We asked to try (so we wouldn’t die ignorant) a durian sorbet—unsurprisingly, it was awful 🙁 (but not as bad as the candies), so we went for something more basic.

Finally, we entered the mosque after covering up (they provide everything at the entrance if your outfit doesn’t meet the standards), and we listened to the explanations from a very friendly gentleman.



...except after 10 minutes, the heat in our outfits overpowered our cultural interest, and we retreated to the tiny Islamic Arts Museum (air-conditioned!).

Then, we took a taxi to Kampung Baru, known for its traditional houses. So, was it fatigue, or were we just not in the nicest spot? But the visit left us with an unpleasant feeling—like zoo visitors or millionaires in a disadvantaged neighborhood 😐. It’s not far from the slums, and the towers right behind (the two areas separated by a huge impassable wall) reminded us of dystopian movies.



After this last visit, we had a beer while waiting for the taxi that picked us up at the hotel (100 RM) to take us to the airport—heading home!

Peninsular Malaysia: our review

Our first trip to Asia.

Highlights:

Almost everyone speaks English.

The people are generally friendly. It ranges from folks offering to help us on the street (super nice!), to taxi drivers and guides (nice!), to the bus ticket seller (not nice at all!!!). We loved the natural interactions, without feeling like walking wallets (even a taxi driver who offered to take us to the elephant sanctuary still stuck around to give us info after we turned down his offer).

The alphabet is the same as ours, making it easy to get around.

The diversity of places in Peninsular Malaysia. In 15 days and without rushing, we managed three very different stops.

The prices: it’s easy to find comfortable accommodation in KL with Airbnb, and restaurants are very affordable except on the islands (which are still a good deal compared to France—3.50 € for a full breakfast or 4 € for a meal, for example).

Transportation is pretty comfortable and easy to find/book, at least for major routes.

The apparent cultural diversity. I’d be less categorical here because I’ve lived in Mauritius and know the cultural hypocrisy… (On the surface, it’s all love and harmony, but in reality, everyone’s sizing each other up, and racism is rampant).

The beauty of the Perhentian Islands, with their jungle backdrop, crystal-clear waters in good weather, marine life, and animals that interact with humans fearlessly.

Super cheap domestic flights.

Lowlights:

Room for improvement on signage (metro, road signs…). We’re not exactly clueless (I think), but we still needed outside help to find our way sometimes! The specialty: a sign pointing one way, then nothing else! Or multiple signs with the same name pointing in different directions??!

KL: tough to get around on foot. You’re quickly trapped by roads that are impossible to cross without risking your life. To get from one “sidewalk” to another, you have to find pedestrian bridges over the roads, and they’re not every 100 meters. And even then, when you take those “bridges,” you’ll likely end up in a mall, and finding the exit is an adventure!

Still in KL: a very polluted, noisy, and pretty dirty city—you’ll be craving some peace and quiet fast!

Cameron Highlands: a so-so visit, even if the tea plantations are lovely. The town is ugly and so congested that the only road is hard to cross on foot…

Perhentian Besar: Some beaches are swimming lesson spots for Asian tourists, and they arrive by the hundreds! The seabeds can be desolate (like a Martian landscape), so don’t hesitate to seek out the prettier spots. Apparently, some people dump their trash in the water or on the beach—some places are absolutely heartbreaking! Personally, I tied a knot in my swim shirt and filled it with trash as I found it… straight to the bin! You can also (I wish I had) pack a few trash bags in your luggage.

In conclusion:

We’ll definitely be back someday to visit Borneo!

We loved this first trip to Asia! It’s a great destination, even for an off-the-beaten-path honeymoon!

If you’ve got comments, insults, or just questions about my story, don’t hesitate! 😉

Well, thanks again Servante for this complete and beautifully illustrated feedback. We also loved this country so much, even though it’s so little visited compared to its neighbors, and I still wonder why (religion maybe??). See you next time on VF! Christelle

Hi Solene,

Religion might be a factor... But it’s a shame, because unless you stay in certain areas, you don’t really feel the weight of radical Islam.

It’s still a very underrated destination (personally, I only discovered it while going through every country in Asia! 😄) and in a way, that’s a good thing.

Anyway, thanks for your comments—they’re always appreciated 🙂

Hi there, and thanks for this great travel journal!

We’re heading to Malaysia next year (mainly Borneo and the Perhentians), so it’s always nice to get some tips beforehand!

We’ve chosen Coral View Resort on Besar... hope we won’t regret it...!

Have a good evening.

Hi Fifi,

We passed by the Coral View on our way to PIR Beach, and we were impressed by the sea-view bungalow terraces—it looked pretty luxurious! That said, from what I remember, there’s no direct beach access!

Have a great trip!

If you have any comments, insults, or just questions about my story, don't hesitate! 😉

Just comments. Malaysia is one of the few places in the region where people aren’t constantly after my money. Communication is easy there. It’s relaxing. The Cameron Highlands are a victim of their own success. If you love tea, a visit to Sri Lanka is a must. 😎 The walkways. Essential for getting around in cities. The model that leads more easily to the shopping mall than to the street seems to have inspired the designers of airport duty free areas. Asian city-dwellers rarely walk; exits often lead to taxi stands and public transport stations. Borneo is a great idea for extending your next trip.

If you have any comments, insults, or just questions about my story, don't hesitate! 😉

Just comments. Malaysia is one of the few places in the region where people aren’t constantly after my money. Communication is easy there. It’s relaxing. The Cameron Highlands have fallen victim to their own success. If you love tea, a visit to Sri Lanka is a must. 😎 The walkways. Essential for getting around cities. The model that leads more easily to the shopping mall than to the street seems to have inspired the designers of airport duty free shops. Asians in cities rarely walk; exits often lead to taxi stands and public transport stations. Borneo is a great idea for extending your next trip.

Thanks for the comments! I’ll keep your tips in mind for future trips to Asia 🙂

Thanks Servanel for this vivid and captivating travel journal. We were in Malaysia last year in October too, and your itinerary brought back memories and similar experiences... We also ended our trip beautifully at the Journal Hotel! Have a good evening

Thanks Servanel for this vivid and captivating story. We were in Malaysia last October too, and your itinerary brought back memories and similar experiences... We also ended our trip in style at the Journal Hotel! Have a great evening

Thanks for your reply—it’s nice to know we’re not writing for nothing! 🙂

It’s funny we picked the same hotel to wrap up our stay! It’s true that for the price of a pretty basic accommodation in France (for a wedding, we spent a night in a rather charm-free hotel in Brittany at the end of September. For the three of us, we paid over 80 € (no breakfast included!))... We enjoyed a fantastic buffet breakfast and rooftop pool access.

Really a chance to enjoy some luxury at a bargain price!

it's nice to know we're not writing for nothing

Hello, You managed to capture the little things in life that give meaning to travel and describe them with humor and whimsy.

A fair perspective on the other side of the mirror too: message #16:

Finally, we take a taxi to the Kampung Baru district, known for its traditional houses. Is it fatigue, or are we just not in the most pleasant spot? But visiting this place left us with an unpleasant feeling of discomfort. Like zoo visitors or millionaires in a disadvantaged neighborhood. We’re not far from the slums, and the towers just behind (the two areas separated by a huge impassable wall) remind us of dystopian movies.

Best regards,

it's nice to know we're not writing for nothing

Hello, You managed to capture the little things in life that give meaning to travel and describe them with humor and whimsy.

A fair perspective on the other side of the mirror too: message #16:

Finally, we take a taxi to the Kampung Baru district, known for its traditional houses. So, is it fatigue or are we just not in the nicest spot? But visiting this place left us with an unpleasant feeling of unease. Like visitors in a zoo or millionaires in a disadvantaged neighborhood. We’re not far from the slums, and the towers right behind (the two areas separated by a huge impassable wall) remind us of those dystopian films.

Best regards,

Thanks for your comments! 🙂 Indeed, we experience our travels through the lens of humor (well, mostly self-deprecation), because it’s really important to us.

But that doesn’t stop us from noting what’s ugly... I grew up until adulthood in so-called "developing" countries, and you’ve got to call a spade a spade: inter-racial and/or religious wars, extreme poverty surviving just steps away from sheer luxury...

A big thank you, Servanel, for this beautiful travel journal. My wife and I were also in Malaysia last August, and your story brought back some great memories... We stayed at Coral View for 9 nights, and I can confirm it’s a really nice hotel. PIR beach is by far the best on the island, and the snorkeling is fabulous. As for taxis in KL and Malaysia, I recommend downloading the "Grab" app to find taxis everywhere for cheap. We paid 65 RM from KLIA1 to our hotel in Bukit Bintang at 2 AM—it’s really simple and affordable. You can also use Uber and compare prices. Malaysia is a beautiful country, and the mix of Malay, Chinese, and Indian cultures adds a lot. The food is amazing too! I’ll be back next year because I’d love to visit Borneo and Tioman :) Have a good evening

A big thank you Servanel for this beautiful story. My wife and I were also in Malaysia last August, and your account brought back some great memories... We stayed at Coral View for 9 nights, and I can confirm it’s a really nice hotel. PIR beach is by far the best on the island, and the snorkeling is fabulous. For taxis in KL and Malaysia in general, I recommend downloading the "Grab" app to find taxis everywhere at a low cost. We paid 65 RM from KLIA1 to our hotel in Bukit Bintang at 2 AM—it’s really simple and cheap. You can also use Uber and compare prices. Malaysia is a beautiful country, and the mix of Malay, Chinese, and Indian cultures adds a lot. The food is amazing too. I’ll be back next year because I’d love to visit Borneo and Tioman! :) Have a good evening

Thanks for your comment! 🙂 So, to pick up on what you said, Coral View did seem really nice (at least the sea-view rooms), but we didn’t share the same opinion on PIR beach. I wrote that we were really disappointed with it because—when we went—it wasn’t well maintained, with an ugly stagnant pool at one end. 🤪 I’ll keep your taxi tips in mind for my next trip! Thanks! 🙂

Like everyone else, thank you for this story—it has a little something spontaneous and refreshing about it. Really, really nice to read; I loved it.

I think you did a great job, even if your itinerary didn’t always hit the best spots. For example, I never go to the Cameron Highlands for various reasons, including the bad weather (rain and/or fog) and the lack of interest. On the other hand, kudos for Kuala Gandah—it’s not visited that often.

For your next trip to Borneo, just a small note: the cost of "tourist" living (hotels and activities) is significantly higher than on the peninsula, whether in Sabah or Sarawak. Personally, I find there’s more to see in Sabah than in Sarawak, except for Mulu Park—a totally incredible karst wonder that’s worth the effort (both to get there and for the climb, which requires being in great shape). It’s similar to Shilin in China or the Tsingy in Madagascar, but I found it even more impressive.

In Borneo (Sabah and Sarawak), you have an endemic monkey (found only in Borneo): the proboscis monkey (called *nasique* in French). Hergé used it as a model for his character, the abominable Rastapopoulos (for those familiar with Tintin). This monkey sleeps in trees above rivers and moves inland during the day to feed. So, you can really only see it from a boat, either in the morning or evening. Given that (roughly, depending on the season), the sun rises around 6 AM and sets around 6 PM, most tourists see the *monyet belanda* (their name in Malay) in the late afternoon. I recommend doing this visit in the morning, which will probably mean getting up around 5-6 AM to be on-site and start the tour by 7 AM at the latest. It should be over by 9 AM. In the morning, there’s hardly anyone around, so your boat pilot won’t have to juggle to make space for others to see them too. And for photos, the light is better than in the evening (it’s often a bit twilight-like when you see the monkeys). I’m attaching a photo of nasiques. You can find them on almost all the rivers in Sabah and Sarawak. There aren’t *that* many rivers, but nearly all of them have nasiques.

Another activity you missed is the fireflies (*kelip-kelip* in Malay). If you’re passing back through the peninsula, you can see them in Kuala Selangor, about an hour from KL (train to Rawang or KTM to Kuang, then a taxi, costing around 20 €). Or you can see them in Sabah or Sarawak. They need *barambang* trees growing around a brackish river (a mix of fresh and saltwater). It’s absolutely fascinating—tens of thousands of little flies perched there, blinking like a Christmas tree.

About monkeys, there are also orangutan protection and rehabilitation centers. There’s one in Sarawak (Semenggoh Nature Reserve, 20 minutes from Kuching) and one in Sabah (Sepilok, near Sandakan). Like the elephants in Kuala Gandah, these are government-run centers, but there’s an entrance fee (not too expensive), and the monkeys are completely free. Some return at feeding time, when you can see them from large platforms before they head back into the jungle. There are always a few around, because the main problem for orangutans is the destruction of their natural habitat, and what’s left today is really too limited to feed them all.

I last went to Malaysia in 2015 and chose Sabah in Borneo because this Malaysian sultanate offers more wildlife. But I also love Sarawak because of its large Dayak population. I spent three days with a Dayak guide—dressed in jeans and sneakers—but with an incredible knowledge of nature and what it offers to eat. We fished for giant prawns (seriously giant: 500g each!!!), ate fern shoots (delicious), and more... In Sabah, you should go to Sandakan (cheap with AirAsia) and plan a stay on the Kinabatangan River. There’s a local association (Mescot) working in villages to prevent wild exploitation and the destruction of primary forests (by replanting trees) while promoting responsible tourism. You can even stay with locals (the Homestay program exists across Malaysia). Check out mescot.org—it might inspire your planning. Also, try to see a rafflesia, the largest single flower in the world. It blooms roughly every ten years, takes between 7 months and a year for the bud to turn into a flower, and the bloom lasts about a week. Luckily, there are many of them, so you have a good chance of seeing one, but it’s not 100% guaranteed. It’s free, but it’s better to have a guide (which does cost), because if you don’t know what to look for, you’ll easily miss it—it’s not always visible from the paths.

Don’t hesitate to ask me questions—I’m starting to know the place pretty well (26 trips between 1998 and 2015).

Like everyone else, thank you for this story—it has a little something spontaneous and refreshing about it. Really, really nice to read, I loved it.

I think you did a great job, even if your itinerary didn’t always go through the best spots. For example, I never go to the Cameron Highlands for various reasons, including the bad weather (rain and/or fog) and the lack of interest. On the other hand, well done for visiting Kuala Gandah—it’s not that well-visited.

For your next trip to Borneo

Good evening,

Thanks for your compliments! 🙂

I agree the CH aren’t that interesting, but I’ll admit that after KL, I didn’t feel like considering another city (Penang or Malacca)...

Thank you so much for your invaluable tips for Borneo!!! 🙂

Unfortunately, our budget won’t allow us to go there in the next (3/4) years, but I’ve noted your advice and hope it’ll be useful to other readers!

In any case, it’s really making me want to go!

Thanks again!

Hi Servane,

First of all, a very happy New Year full of wonderful travels! We really enjoyed your travel journal, especially since we’ve planned a trip to Malaysia this coming July. We know Kuala Lumpur well, having stayed there several times for a few days on our way to Indonesia (Java, Bali, Lombok, Flores). We’ve also been to Melaka—a fantastic city that’s well worth the trip and quite close to KL (just a 2-hour bus ride).

For this summer, we’re considering a week at the Perhentians, and I think Abdul’s GH looks great with its sea view. From what I understood, you were happy with it—is that right? Is it quiet there? There’s also Mama GH, which gets mentioned a lot on this site—have you heard of it? Is the beach at Abdul’s good for lounging and swimming right in front of the GH? We don’t do diving or snorkeling, just a quick dip. We love hiking, but I get the impression it’s pretty tough due to the jungle on the island. Are there any trekking options? We enjoy walking for several hours in the morning to explore and then relaxing on the beach in the afternoon. Did you book Abdul’s GH directly through their website, or did you use Booking.com or another platform?

One small detail: I enjoy a cold beer in the evening before dinner, so do you have to go a bit farther to find that little pleasure? Abdul’s doesn’t serve any.

We’re also thinking about the Cameron Highlands for a week, if the weather’s nice. We’d love to do some treks (and take photos) in the tea plantations. Is that possible? I think you mentioned your route was set up by your taxi driver due to time constraints and not-so-great weather. Is Father’s GH quiet and nice?

That’s a lot of questions to start the year! Thanks so much. Looking forward to reading your reply. Mina and Olivier

Hi Servane,

First of all, a very happy New Year full of wonderful trips! We really enjoyed your travel journal, especially since we’re planning to go to Malaysia next July. We know Kuala Lumpur well, having stayed there several times for a few days on our way to Indonesia (Java, Bali, Lombok, Flores). We’ve also been to Melaka—a great city that’s worth the trip and quite close to KL (2-hour bus ride). For this summer, I’m considering a week at the Perhentians, and I think Abdul’s GH looks pretty good with its sea view. From what I understood, you were happy with it? Is it quiet? There’s also Mama GH, which is often mentioned on this site—have you heard of it? Is the beach at Abdul’s suitable for lounging and swimming right in front of the GH, since we don’t do diving or snorkeling, just a quick dip? We love walking, but I gather it’s quite difficult due to the jungle on the island? Are there any trekking opportunities? We enjoy hiking for several hours in the morning and relaxing on the beach in the afternoon. Did you book Abdul’s directly through their website or via Booking.com or another platform? One detail: I also enjoy a cold beer in the evening before dinner, so do you have to go a bit farther to find that little pleasure? Abdul’s doesn’t serve any.

I’m also considering the Cameron Highlands, but for a week if the weather’s nice. We’d like to do some treks (and take photos) in the tea fields. Is that possible? From what I understand, you did a set route with your taxi driver due to time constraints and not-so-great weather. Is Father’s GH quiet and good?

That’s a lot of questions for the start of the year. Thanks! Looking forward to reading your reply. Mina and Olivier

Hi Olivier,

Here are a few answers to your questions, but keep in mind that our trip was in mid-September, so not peak season!

1) Yes, Abdul’s was quiet because it’s at the end of the beach. The "deluxe sea view" bungalow had the double advantage of being right by the sea but also independent (no risk of being woken up by the neighbors’ kids 😉 ). The view from the bungalow terrace was really lovely, and you could swim right away, even in shallow water. The beach has fine sand for lounging if you want. Meals were good, there’s a little shop, and the staff was friendly (we saw a lot of comments about them on TripAdvisor, but maybe they’d been told off because we found them very helpful). To book: contact them directly by email (check their website). They’re not on booking sites. You’ll need to pay a deposit of about 50% about a month before. It was a real headache because it’s either a bank transfer (with a nice fee for the bank) or sending your credit card details by email 🙁. In the end, we created a virtual credit card with a set maximum amount and numbers that couldn’t be used after the first transaction. It went smoothly 🙂

2) Mama: Can’t really say, except that there’s no direct beach. But it has a good reputation on TripAdvisor!

3) Walks/treks: For a relaxing stroll, it’s nice at sunset on the beach. For jungle adventures, you don’t need to be super fit, but expect to sweat a lot and get attacked by hundreds of mosquitoes. So bring plenty of water and good mosquito repellent to enjoy the jungle 😏. Otherwise, exploring other beaches (some almost deserted, as I mentioned in my journal) is nice.

4) Beer: Served with other alcohol at Tuna Bay’s bar, and Tiger Beer sold in cans at Coconut (a bit farther north than Tuna) for 11 RM each. Abdul’s doesn’t serve any, and generally in Malaysia, don’t expect every place to offer beer.

5) Cameron Highlands: It was a discovery, but personally, it’s not what I remember most from our trip. There are plenty of hiking trails, but we were there for 1.5 days, which turned into 1 day because of (supposedly) a typhoon on the coast. So if you love trekking, I think you’ll enjoy it :) The "route" with the driver was just the road from Tanah Rata to the tea fields, with a few photo stops when possible. Father’s GH: Clean, international visitors, outdoor areas, and a snack bar... But very basic, and hot water is optional. For the price, though, it seems to be the best in the area.

Happy New Year and happy planning!

PS: Be careful—especially for July, you’ll need to book very early (ideally now) for the Perhentians! We booked our bungalow in early January for September, and it seems we weren’t too early!

Hi Servane,

Thanks so much for all this super clear info!

The guesthouse doesn’t accept PayPal either, and I’m not familiar with Webcard. I’ll look into it.

Before booking, just two more logistical questions to pin down our arrival day:

We’re scheduled to land at 9:00 AM at KLIA 1. We’ll take a flight from KLIA 2—no problem, that’s pretty quick. But at the other end, is the trip between Kota Bharu Airport and the city really about an hour of rally-style driving, based on your ultra-detailed trip report? And is there still a boat around 5:30 PM from the mainland to Besar? Did I get that right? I’m checking if we can make it with the AirAsia flight at 1:05 PM, arriving at 2:10 PM, to avoid spending the night in Kota Bharu.

Thanks! Have a great evening. Mina & Olivier

Hi Servane,

Thanks so much for all this super clear info.

The GH doesn’t accept PayPal either, and I’m not familiar with Webcard. I’ll look into it.

Before booking, just two more logistical questions to nail down our arrival day.

We’re scheduled to land at 9:00 AM at KLIA 1. We’ll take a flight from KLIA 2—no problem, that’s pretty quick. But on the other end, is the trip between Kota Bharu Airport and the city really about an hour in rally mode, based on your ultra-detailed trip report? And is there still a boat around 5:30 PM from the mainland to Besar? Did I get that right? I’m checking if we can make it with the AirAsia flight at 1:05 PM, arriving at 2:10 PM, to avoid an overnight in Kota Bharu.

Thanks. Have a great evening. Mina & Olivier

Hi Olivier,

Watch out +++ for flight schedules! Are you planning to take a direct flight to Kota Bharu right after landing in KL? I really think you should consider the unexpected before booking domestic flights. Just a few hours’ delay (on departure or arrival) can throw off your whole schedule and cost you time and money. As for boats to Kuala Besut, we were able to catch one until almost 6:00 PM... I’m not sure if there are boats for everyone at that time or only for reserved buses (the usual schedules I saw were 8:00 AM/5:00 PM).

Hi Servane,

Thanks so much for all this super clear info.

The guesthouse doesn’t accept PayPal either, and I’m not familiar with Webcard. I’ll look into it.

An e-card is a virtual bank card number. Just ask your bank.

Hi Servane, Thanks. Yes, you're absolutely right—we're arriving at KLIA1. I'll take a closer look. Have a good evening

Note about the 50% advance payment by credit card or e-card: 3% fees as stated on Abdul's chalet website.

Hi Servanel,

Love your story! Thanks for all the info.

I wanted to book at Abdul Chalet, but unfortunately, it’s not available for my dates! 🙁 So I’ll book at Reef Chalet instead. Did you get a chance to see it? If so, what did you think of it from a distance? I also have a 50% deposit to pay—I was thinking of going through my bank. I’ll look into that ecard system.

Good evening Servane, Thank you. Yes, you're absolutely right, we're arriving at KLIA1. I'm looking into it closely. Have a good evening

What's recommended is to allow a 3-hour gap between your arrival time at KLIA1 and your departure time at KLIA2.

You’ll need to: - Disembark the plane and enter the airport (5 to 10 minutes) - Go through immigration (it’s pretty quick, but it can take 10/15 minutes including the tram ride) - Collect your luggage (sometimes just 5 minutes, sometimes a quarter of an hour) - Find and take the shuttle to KLIA2. I’ve managed it in 40 minutes, but never in less than 15/20 minutes) - Check in your luggage again with AirAsia at KLIA2 (10 to 30 minutes) - Go through police checks - Walk to the terminal (it’s no small feat: depending on your departure gate, you might have up to 2.5 km to walk!!!). They’ve installed moving walkways because everyone was complaining (there are 42 now), but the minimum time is between 6 and 18 minutes if you walk briskly with luggage that doesn’t slow you down.

All in all, you should plan for about 2 hours if everything goes smoothly, but given the number of "transfers" (that’s the official term, meaning potential bottlenecks), it’s better to add an extra hour, making it 3 hours

going through immigration (it’s pretty quick, but it can take 10/15 mins including the tram ride)

A few years ago, YES. It seems like checks are stricter now—at KLIA in 2016, we waited over an hour, and in 2017, our friends waited over an hour too. Don’t overlook this when entering Malaysia via KL during peak season, of course... and during "rush hours" in the morning.

I’m bumping this thread for future travelers and adding an "unusual" section 😉 -- The elevators made by Chinese companies: since the number 4 sounds like "death," it’s banned. So we stayed on floor "13A."

-- Apartment entrances: you have to take off your shoes everywhere in Malaysia before entering a living space. Hence these kinds of "cages":

-- Western-style toilets seem to be a fairly recent thing. In more remote areas, you’ll find squat toilets (though not necessarily dirty). There are signs to explain how to use these "alien" contraptions properly.





-- And instructional posters with photos to show what to do with the hoses/showers that replace empty flush tanks (before taking this photo, I tried flushing, then—being a bit clueless—I turned on the tap) (so I left with soaked shoes).

-- In hotels/guesthouses, an arrow on the ceiling will point toward Mecca for prayer:

-- Dogs, explosives, and "indecent behavior" are banned on public transport . That’s how we joked for 20 minutes about the fate of a Chinese couple holding hands on the train .

In the same vein, there are train cars reserved for women and children. And apparently lesbians too .

-- French (or something like it) is so chic (St. Tropez, its Eiffel Tower, its red buses):



-- And the cherry on top: in a mall, a shop that’s "neither for nor against, quite the contrary":

I'm bumping this for 2018 travelers! :)

Hi, thanks for your travel journal! Where did you stay in the Perhentians? Thanks