A Not-So-"Classic" Itinerary in Colombia

Hi everyone,

I’m coming back to ask for your valuable advice once again (which has already helped me out multiple times for other trips, thanks! 🙂) for a 3.5-week itinerary in Colombia this January. We’re traveling as a couple, backpacking, and our trip will be by bus only (unless we crack and take a plane once, but we’d prefer to avoid it).

To avoid rushing around and because we want to steer clear of the tourist crowds on the Caribbean coast, we’ve planned a route that might seem a bit off the beaten path. Could you let me know what you think, please?

We land in Bogotá -> Armenia (Cocora Valley) -> Coffee Region -> Medellín -> Guatapé and Jardín -> Capurganá and Sapzurro -> back to Bogotá (or Páramo de Ocetá if we have time).

We’re more drawn to relaxed spots without too many tourists, and we’d really love to swim in a beautiful place (we live in Quebec, and it’s pretty tough to swim in the sea, especially in January!).

Thanks to all of you!

That’s literally the classic route. You say you’re avoiding the Caribbean coast, but then you go to Capurgana and Sapzuro?? I don’t really get it 😕

Actually, we're trying to avoid Cartagena, Tayrona Park, and that whole area because of the huge crowds of tourists! I had the impression that most people do a big loop from Bogotá, San Gil, Santa Marta, Cartagena, Medellín, and back to Bogotá. But that seems a bit too rushed for us!

Basically, with our route, we'd stick to the northwest side of Colombia. Is that "too little" for 3.5 weeks, or does it seem okay? Is it really a mistake to skip Cartagena? (But it’s a lot of buses…)

Hope this is clearer—the title "not-so-classic itinerary" might not have been the best choice! 😄

Hi there,

Salento and the Cocora Valley are very popular spots and, as a result, more than "classic"—definitely avoid going there on weekends, as it can get *packed*. Alternative: Salamina and its Samaria Forest (similar to the Cocora Valley).

Guatapé is pretty touristy too.

It’s a shame to skip Cartagena, which, while touristy, is still a city where you don’t just run into other tourists, and it’s absolutely stunning. But there’s a great alternative (or rather, a great addition) with almost no tourists: Mompox.

The Ocetá Páramo is a bit on the other side of the country compared to the other places you want to visit, but there are páramos in the Coffee Region near Manizales, in Los Nevados Natural Park. Otherwise, there are also a few páramos pretty close to Bogotá (though I don’t remember the names).

In the end, quite a few places can get really busy on weekends with Colombian tourists from Medellín or Bogotá, for example.

Thanks for your reply! You're right, I think I had the wrong idea thinking only Tayrona Park would be overcrowded :)

I think we'll stick with the plan to limit ourselves to the western part of the country so we don't spend our whole trip on buses, and if we have time, we'll head to Cartagena.

Thanks again!

Hi, which Cartagena are you talking about—the super touristy historic center? Bocagrande, the little Miami of the area? Or the completely run-down downtown full of thieves and all kinds of gangs?

Thanks for the info, because I have to admit I didn’t see the same city as you.

hi there🙂 I don't get travelers who want to visit countries without running into other tourists—it's like visiting Paris and skipping the Eiffel Tower or the Arc de Triomphe just 'cause they're too touristy😕 Chantal

Hi Chantal,

Let’s just say that tourists change everything in a country or region—especially the interactions you might have with locals. Most of the Colombians you’ll see, for example, aren’t even from the region, let alone the city. The Paris example you gave doesn’t really apply to countries like this. People visit Paris for the monuments, not the Parisians. Even in Cartagena, where there *are* city walls, nobody comes to Colombia just to see walls. Personally, I’m not a fan of tourists because when there are too many of them, it’s hell. To avoid being taken for a fool, you have to prove you’re not stupid every single time—don’t think they see you any differently. That’s why they come from all over the country; they know it’s way easier to deal with tourists than with actual locals. There are other spots where Colombians go for beach vacations, and you’ll never find foreign tourists there...

Hi, It’s a choice we make—we don’t want to have to book places to sleep in advance, which would likely be the case if we end up in Cartagena, or wait in line for an hour and a half, which is what’ll happen at Tayrona Park. Unfortunately, the time we’re going is peak tourist season, so we’d rather explore more relaxed spots, even if it means missing out on some must-see places. For us, visiting overcrowded spots really ruins the fun! Plus, people who live in touristy areas often take less time to chat, and the interaction feels less warm—that’s what we all love about traveling, right? :)

I agree that mass tourism is unpleasant and distorts the places it touches. I also agree that Cartagena isn’t the ideal spot for meaningful exchanges with locals. That said, Cartagena’s appeal is still that it’s one of the most beautiful colonial cities in Latin America (for me, it’s not just about the walls) and a key place in Colombia’s history. So it’d be a shame to skip it just because there are a few too many tourists. And that doesn’t mean you can’t visit less touristy spots before or after, where you can have more "authentic" (even if I don’t like that word) interactions with Colombians.

As I mentioned earlier, if you’re definitely skipping Cartagena, I’d *highly* recommend Mompox ;)

Hi Frédéric,

I really think Cartagena is a must-visit, especially if it’s your first trip to Colombia—and maybe your last—you’ve got to see it. Well, at least the historic center, because the rest isn’t really worth it, not at all. Just don’t be naive, that’s all.

Yes, thanks—I’d noted Mompox! But we’re not only considering the touristy side; we’re also factoring in bus distances. We don’t wanna spend our whole trip in transit! 🙂 For now, we’ll stick with our current route, and if we have enough time to go, we’ll do it! Thanks again

🙂Hi there! I just got back from Colombia where we spent a month, and it’s true we were there in the low season, so we didn’t book anything in advance—except when we arrived in Bogotá. In Tolú, we had a whole hotel to ourselves (4 women!), and the price was negotiable and super cheap. Of course, in the coffee region, rain was everywhere in the afternoons, but we knew that going in😛. I wish you a wonderful trip in this amazing country, and I’ll say it again: Colombians are incredibly kind😎. CHANTAL

Oh, I’m even more excited to leave after reading your post, Chantal! Could you tell me what your itinerary was like?

Yes, here’s our route: Bogotá – 2 nights Villa de Leyva – 1 night, then off to Zipaquirá for the Salt Cathedral, back to Bogotá, and an overnight bus to San Agustín – 2 nights Then on to Popayán – 2 nights Next, a bus to Salento – 3 nights, then another bus to Salento (oops, already there!) – 2 nights, bus to Filandia – 1 night, then bus to Jardín – 2 nights, then a bus to Medellín – 4 nights, and a domestic flight to Santa Marta. From there, we headed to Taganga – 3 nights, including a visit to Tayrona National Park. Then a bus to Cartagena – 2 nights, where we dropped off our big luggage at the hotel before taking a bus to Tolú – 3 nights. After that, back to the hotel in Cartagena – 1 night, then a domestic flight to Bogotá – 1 night, and finally back to France. That’s our rough itinerary in a nutshell! CHANTAL

Could you give me some info about the Tolu area and the hotel where you stayed? Best, Joëlle

🙂hi there Tolu is a villa located a few km from Santa Marta we stayed at Hotel Babilla Guesthouse cheers CHANTAL

Hello,

Tolu near Santa Marta? There must be some confusion 😉

oops, big mistake 😛tolu is about 2 hours by bus from Cartagena and the little village near Santa Marta is Taganga thanks Frederic😎

Probably a lot of Aguardiente along the way haha, but I’d mostly like to know the prices for a single room and a double. Thanks.

Pretty cool route! !