Dubai, family vacation

After the wide-open spaces of the American West, we're off to a new destination: Dubai. Not just for a layover, but for a real family vacation!! The question that kept coming up was "why Dubai?" (after why Colorado this summer, people are going to think we're really weird 😅). So, why Dubai? First, because skiing isn’t really our thing anymore—so in winter, we want sunshine 😎. But not just any sunshine—warm enough to swim, which narrows things down a bit 😅. The second constraint this year: Franck can’t take more than a week off (and it’s unpaid), so we’re ruling out destinations with 12-hour flights and jet lag that knocks you out when you get back 😅. The options are getting tighter… So, against all odds, it’s me who ends up suggesting Dubai (my husband’s been nagging me for years about Atlantis and its mega water park—ah, the kids! 😉).

Actually, Dubai only has 2 days of rain a year (you’d have to be *really* unlucky!!), temperatures around 30°C in winter, the sea (oh yeah, I forgot—the sea was something we missed this summer, so it was on our list 😅), a 6/7-hour flight, just 3 hours of jet lag, reasonable family prices, and tons of activities for all tastes. Starting my research with a pretty negative bias, I’m now looking forward to this trip with excitement and impatience… and without spoiling the ending, I won’t be disappointed—our whole family will come back enthusiastic and ready to go back!!

So, I’m taking you along for a week in Dubai at the beginning of March.

Chapter 1: The Departure

As luck would have it, this time we’re not leaving from Nantes but from Paris. When we booked the tickets (end of October), flying from Nantes would have added 800 € to our total budget of 2200 € for five people. So, we set off by car on Friday, March 2nd, a little stressed about the forecasted weather (snow and black ice) but excited to head toward the sun ☀️. We did run into some snow in the Beauce region and then freezing rain, but we arrived at Roissy without any issues. We’d booked parking at a hotel through Onepark (49 € for 8 days in a covered lot). We got there just in time for the free shuttle to the airport—only four seats left in the minibus—but the super-friendly driver told me to take Camille on my lap so we wouldn’t have to wait for the next one ☺️.

At the Air France check-in counter in Roissy, we were in for a surprise. We were already familiar with the self-service kiosks, but this was next-level! My boarding passes were already printed, along with my baggage tags… which I had no idea what to do with. A hostess gave me plastic sleeves to slip the tags into, which then went into the handles of the suitcases. After that, it was up to me to scan the tags, weigh the luggage, put it on the conveyor belt, and figure it out when the machine jammed… In short, cost-cutting all the way. 😕

The flight itself was uneventful, except for the big guy behind me who blocked my seat so I couldn’t recline and had the nerve to tell me to my face, “Because otherwise the screen is too close to my eyes.” Yeah, well, I’ve got the person in front of me on my lap—it’s the same for everyone. If you don’t like it, fly Business!

We landed in Dubai at 11:30 PM with a pretty rough touchdown. Then came passport control, which was incredibly efficient. They opened new counters as needed, and agents managed the lines, so we were through in just 10 minutes!

Next up: waiting for our luggage. One suitcase, then two… and then… where’s the third?! A guy showed up with a list of bags already reported missing. We weren’t on it, but we were still missing one suitcase—grrr, our travel anxiety strikes again! Usually, I have a carry-on with essentials for the first day, but this time, nothing. And of course, it was *my* suitcase with *all* my stuff in it!

So, off to the claims office, right behind a group of cruise passengers who barely spoke English. It took over an hour to file the report, not helped by the fact that I’d printed my own baggage tags and the guy had never seen that before! Next time, I’m sticking to the classic system!!!

By the time we finally headed to the car rental, it was 1:30 AM. We’d decided to rent a car to have more freedom, especially with five of us… though we’d see how the driving conditions were! They gave us a pretty classy big sedan (a Honda, I think—cars aren’t my thing). It was super comfortable, but the trunk only fit two suitcases… which worked out fine this time, but it might get tricky on the way back.

I fired up the GPS—HereWeGo, a free app on my phone—and off we went toward our hotel in the business district, about 15 minutes from the airport. First glimpse of the traffic: still heavy even at 2 AM, with taxis driving like maniacs, passing on the right, passing on the left, honking. And to top it off, highways with 24 lanes and interchanges in every direction—even in the US, we’ve never seen anything like it!

We drove past the hotel once without finding the entrance—it’s a tower behind a metro station. Tried again, but no way to park and ask for directions. Luckily, I’d done some research beforehand and knew the parking was in a parallel street. We stopped there, and I asked the doorman, who told me the entrance was through the parking! Sure enough, between the two buildings, there was a flower-filled courtyard leading to the lobby entrance. Finally, we’d arrived! The girls were amazed: “It’s a luxury hotel!” Well, not exactly—it was one of the cheaper options for the amenities and location, but the marble-and-gold style and army of porters made quite the impression (especially after some of the motels we stayed in this summer).

They gave us a room on the 37th floor, with “a great view,” according to the concierge.

And he wasn’t wrong—we weren’t disappointed! The view from our room was *wow*!!!! Panoramic windows let us enjoy it even from bed.





The “room” was actually a 100 m² apartment with 2 bedrooms, a large living room with a sofa bed, 2 bathrooms, 3 toilets, a kitchen with a washer, dryer, dishwasher, etc., and a balcony—all for about 1500 € for 8 days, taxes included (watch out: taxes aren’t included in the reservation and add about 15%, which isn’t negligible).

By the time we got the sheets for the sofa bed, it was 3:30 AM. We finally crashed for a good night’s sleep!

Hey, a destination I’ve been thinking about for a winter trip in the near future, so it’s not that weird 😛 As a bonus, I’m 😎

Me too! Especially since we're less and less keen on going skiing 😉

Saturday, March 3rd: first steps into Dubai madness Late start after a good night's sleep, and after admiring the view again—this time in daylight—we had to shake the girls awake to grab breakfast before 10 a.m.











We decided to have breakfast at the hotel to save time. We got dressed for summer—well, not me. I put my travel jeans back on and borrowed a T-shirt from Franck. Today’s priority: SHOPPING!! But Laura showed up in the mandatory mini-short/tank top combo for the beach. "Uh, I don’t think that’s gonna fly here, sweetie!" Of course, being a rebellious teen, she told me off in style. "Just try it, you’ll see!" And sure enough, all eyes were on her as soon as we stepped into the elevator. We went back up right after breakfast (on the terrace between the buildings), and she finally agreed to put on something a bit more appropriate for the region!

Don’t panic too much about clothing here! We really didn’t know what to pack, unsure about the level of tolerance. But honestly, you see all kinds of things—even worse than Lolo’s mini-short/tank top. In those cases, though, you’ve got to be ready for some *very* intense stares! At the entrance of some public places, it’s written: knees and shoulders must be covered or you risk a fine. So, short is okay, but not *too* short, and no deep cleavage—bring a shirt or a shawl to cover up. On the beach, bikinis are the norm, and we even saw some *almost* thongs! But swimming in clothes is forbidden.

Ready to tackle our day, we headed to the Dubai Mall, a massive shopping center (and more) about 1.5 km from our hotel. I asked the concierge if we could walk there, which triggered a hearty laugh. "No, ma’am, it’s too dangerous—you’d have to cross the highway!" And let me tell you, highways here aren’t a joke! So, we got the car and braved the traffic. About 15 minutes later, we arrived at the famous mall with its multiple parking entrances—all free!

We parked without any issues, especially since the cars here are so big that the spaces are extra wide. Then we dove into the mall. (Here’s a little tip: don’t just note your parking spot number—write down the name of the parking lot and the floor! There are even machines that give you a ticket with all the info, but we didn’t see them.)

We wandered through the massive aisles lined with hundreds of stores from all over the world. I picked up some "essentials" (which Air France will reimburse me for)—underwear, a swimsuit, T-shirts. Prices are the same as in France, so no major splurges!





What makes this mall special are its out-of-this-world spaces, like its massive waterfall.





Its ice rink.



And its aquarium.

You can visit the aquarium, but with the entry price, we settled for the impressive façade. Not sure the inside is worth it after everything else we’ve seen...

After walking through the endless aisles, fatigue and hunger started to set in. Since we had to come back later to go up the Burj Khalifa, we decided to head back to the hotel for a little rest after grabbing some groceries at a small market we’d spotted near the parking exit. That is, if we could *find* the parking lot! We wandered around, trying to remember which stores we’d seen when we arrived. We tried one direction but ended up in the metro corridors. We backtracked a few times before finally finding our car. Moral of the story: write down *all* the info!

Picnic in the room, a quick laundry load while we headed to the pool, then a dip and some lounging on the rooftop parking lot where the hotel pool is.





We’d booked tickets to go up the tower for 5:30 p.m. We had to be there 30 minutes early, and they’re *very* strict about the time. We left the hotel around 4:30 p.m. This time, we knew the way and the parking lot (which was busier than in the morning). But... where’s the exit?! I asked a security guard, who pointed me in a direction and said it was at the end on the right. Okay, we walked to the end of the gallery, exited, and found ourselves at the foot of the fountains and their beautiful blue basin.



We kept going right, along the promenade, picked up the pace a bit, but still no entrance in sight. The Burj Khalifa was right there—we even walked halfway around it—but nothing was marked. I started to get a little worried. Finally, we spotted an entrance at the back of the tower, but a guard stopped me and explained that it was... where we’d just come from. Ugh! We turned around and ran back. It was 5:15 p.m., we were hot, thirsty, and our legs were killing us. We had a bad feeling about this! We arrived at the mall door at 5:28 p.m., still no signs, but I saw people rushing behind some construction barriers—victory, that was it! 5:30 p.m., we were in line. I crossed my fingers. 5:32 p.m., we finally made it to the counter—and we were let in! I think the off-season saved us because I’d read that people had been turned away for being just a few minutes late!!



In the hallways leading to the elevators, there were photos explaining the project and the construction, but honestly, after our wild sprint, we barely paid attention—especially since there was no wait. Finally, the elevators! In 17 seconds with no sense of acceleration, we were on the 125th floor! And wow, the view—despite the slight haze from pollution—you could see the sea, the desert, the city, and its crazy roads.







You can go down to the 124th floor, where the terrace is open, so you can take photos without the glass reflections. The advantage of this time slot is seeing the sunset. If you linger a bit, you can also see the nighttime panorama, but everyone wanted to go back down by then. From our hotel, we had a view of the Burj Khalifa, so we headed back to the base of the tower just in time to see the light show on the building and then the fountain show synchronized with the music.



We found a Turkish restaurant by the basin where we could enjoy the show while feasting.



Getting back to the hotel was a bit tricky because of construction messing with the GPS. In the end, we took a 15 km detour for a little nighttime city tour.

Sunday, March 4th: toes in the sand

This morning, I got up a little earlier and had some good news: my suitcase arrived!! It feels great to get my stuff back, especially my hiking shoes!! After breakfast, we headed to the beach. I’d spotted Al Mamzar neighborhood on a blog—it has palm trees on the beach, which is a must for me since I love the sun in the shade!! The area is a bit far from the center, so it’s impossible to get there without a car. We braved Dubai’s crazy traffic again, which gave me a chance to tip my hat to my husband for handling it (not without complaining, of course, but still!). A little tip: you need two people (and two focused ones at that) to drive here—it’s impossible to drive and follow the GPS at the same time!! We drove through residential neighborhoods with large villas.



Then we arrived at the first beach, and the contrast with the skyscrapers was striking.



We went a little further and finally settled under a palm tree, much to the girls’ delight. There were toilets and showers everywhere, all free to use, so no problem changing into swimsuits.







The kids ran off to swim in the sea—it was a little chilly for my taste, but still around 23–24°C, and very clear. Of course, it’s an artificial beach, nothing natural about Dubai, but it’s still super pleasant at this time of year!!



Around 12:30 PM, we started heading back to the hotel via the corniche, the road that runs along the sea—well, mostly construction zones!! Either way, there’s construction everywhere here. Dubai has 15% of the world’s cranes, and you really see them everywhere!! We stopped at a small supermarket to pick up some groceries, mostly water and some fruits and veggies for picnics. Lunch in the room, and right on time, we were at reception. I’d booked a desert trip through the Getyourguide website. Our driver was there with his big 4x4. The advantage of being a group of five is that the tour becomes private since there are six seats!! So no need to pick up other tourists from different hotels. Rachid, our driver, used the extra time to take us to see the Sheikh’s palace.



After this little detour, we headed into the desert. On the way, we passed an endless line of trucks transporting construction materials from one emirate to another, as well as dump trucks heading to a disposal site that’s created real cliffs at the edge of the desert. We continued on a four-lane road built just for safaris until our first stop at a camp where all the 4x4s gather. There were toilets, coffee, quad bikes, and camels.





After this break, we headed to the red sand dunes for some dune bashing: the idea is to speed through the sand and drift. The girls loved it—after five minutes, Chloé told me it was the best activity of her life! After 20 minutes, though, it was the worst—everyone felt like throwing up!! Luckily, since we were alone, we could stop, get some air, and continue at a slower pace.







We took another break to try sand surfing—pretty fun!!



As the sun started to set, we headed to the “traditional” camp for the evening.



A quick (too quick!) camel ride.



Then we explored the camp.



The falcons.





Fashion.



Then dinner in buffet form (salads, grilled meats, dessert) and a traditional dance show.



Around 10 PM, we got back to the hotel after a great day. So, the verdict: reviews for this kind of trip were really mixed, which made me hesitate for a long time. In the end, no regrets—we had a great day. Sure, there’s nothing authentic about it except the dunes, but let’s be real: there’s not much that’s authentic in Dubai!! The desert landscape is still fascinating, the activities are fun, the food is good and plentiful, and the vibe is nice—all for about 65 € per person. In short, I approve!

Hi, I’ve been to Dubai several times and done the "Desert Safari" three times. I’d recommend it to anyone heading to Dubai. As for the price, I paid a lot less (39 € per person—there were four of us in May 2016). You’ve got to look online because there are plenty of agencies that organize this kind of trip. You’ll really notice the difference in the evening during dinner in the desert.

Hi Stephanie,

I love your travel journal, the way you tell stories, and your beautiful photos. We’ve already been to Dubai in December (two years ago), and like you, I planned the trip a bit reluctantly, but in the end, we came back thrilled. That said, I’d said no car, so we used the metro and taxis (for two).

I don’t know "your" beach—I’ll check where it is! Because I’m planning to go back. In winter, of course!

Thanks for all the great memories... I’m looking forward to the rest!

Best regards,

thanks!

We chose the car because with 5 people it’s not always easy to find a big taxi, so it ends up being 2 taxis, which really adds up! For 2 people, though, you’re right—no need to overcomplicate things!!

Of course! But given the traffic in Dubai, I think we would’ve been too stressed. So, bravo!

Monday, March 5th: from sand to water… This morning, we had to set the alarm. I’d booked a boat trip to see the city from the sea, and the meet-up was at 9 AM at the marina. We’re starting to realize we always need to double the travel time our GPS gives us… so we left the hotel at 8 AM. To get to the marina, we had to cross the city via the highway, which gave us a chance to notice there are regular tolls in the form of bridges that scan license plates—but no price is ever displayed. We’ll see how much it costs on the way back (it ended up being around 7 AED for the whole stay). The meet-up spot set by the agency was a supermarket in the marina, and the GPS seemed to find it, so we trusted it. We parked in the Marina Mall parking lot, but there was no Spinneys in sight. After searching around, I finally asked someone who told us it was much farther away—we had to walk along the marina for over 1.5 km…



Off we went again at a jog! Seriously, directions here aren’t great… I checked the coordinates of the tower on my GPS, and when we finally arrived (sweating) at the spot… no supermarket sign?! I asked again—we were right in front of it, but it was inside the building, and nothing was marked outside! Meanwhile, no one from the agency was waiting for us. It was 9:10 AM. We waited 5 minutes, then I called. The person seemed surprised but sent someone over, who arrived 5 minutes later. It was a French guy who apologized profusely for being late (um, *we* were the ones late…). Turns out our reservation hadn’t been recorded, so the boat wasn’t ready! He made us wait while they found a boat, then a driver picked us up in a huge black SUV to take us to the other end of the marina (not far from where we’d parked) with plenty of detours to kill time! Finally, we made it to the boat! A private "yacht"—for the five of us, it was barely more expensive than a big group boat, and we could stop to swim.



First, we crossed the marina, still under construction…





Then we sailed along Palm Jumeirah up to the Atlantis Hotel.





We headed back toward the coast to admire the Burj Al Arab—the world’s only self-proclaimed 7-star hotel.



Then it was time for a swimming break.



And finally, back to the marina. It was a really fun outing (budget around 250 €).





Next, we decided to head to Souk Madinat Jumeirah. It’s a recreated souk with gardens, canals, souvenir shops, and restaurants. Parking was in an underground lot.



We had lunch at a Lebanese restaurant. The upside is that no matter what type of food is offered, there are always hamburgers or pasta on the menu so everyone finds something they like—super handy with kids!



A little stroll through the souk, where there really wasn’t a crowd!









Then we left for the Mall of the Emirates, just 2 km away, but at the entrance, it specified that shoulders and knees had to be covered or we’d risk a fine. We decided to turn around—our outfits didn’t meet the criteria (though we’d later see that not everyone follows these rules!). A quiet end to the day at the pool.





Too lazy to take the car out for dinner, so we grabbed a family meal from the KFC a few blocks away! Since we weren’t familiar with the chain, we came back with a *ton* of food—enough for three meals in the end!!

Tuesday, March 6: A different side of the city

This morning, we're seeing a different side of Dubai, far from the ultra-modern skyscrapers. We're heading to the historic district of Old Dubai, Deira. The wide avenues give way to narrow, bustling streets lined with small shops—it's the souk (in every sense of the word!!). We park in one of the small private parking lots that pop up everywhere between blocks, since the parking meter system seems a bit risky given we don’t know how long we’ll stay.

We start with a visit to the Dubai Museum, built on the site of the city’s old walls. Entry costs less than 1 € per person, and the visit gives us a sense of the city’s phenomenal evolution—from a small fishing port to the larger-than-life place we’ve seen in just a few decades.









After the museum, we head to Heritage Village, a completely renovated old district where it’s nice to get lost in the alleys. You can find lots of art galleries, restaurants with flower-filled inner courtyards, and government cultural services.







Next, we walk along Dubai Creek, a long inlet that cuts into the land and where the first Dubai residents settled. You can watch the ballet of abras (traditional boats) crossing to the gold and spice souks on the opposite bank, as well as the dhows, the traditional sailing vessels.





We take a quick stroll through the old souk to buy a small camel. The girls experience the atmosphere of this kind of place, with vendors constantly approaching and the art of haggling. Even though we’ve seen worse—especially in Tunisia—I admit I get tired of it pretty quickly. So, we skip the crossing to the other souks.







We go for lunch at the Arabian Tea House, a spot I’d found on a blog. It’s a peaceful, shaded haven where we enjoy our meal.





We decide to end the day at the beach. Off we go in search of Jumeirah Beach, a public beach not too far away—but finding the entrance is another story! Between roadworks, new beach developments, and private access points, we drive around for a while before finally locating it. Turns out, the beachfront has just been renovated, and half the shops and restaurants aren’t even open yet. The underground parking signs even say it’s free (probably because not everything’s up and running). We’re pleasantly surprised to stumble upon a street art exhibit with sculptures and trompe-l'œil paintings—really cool!





We relax on the beach for about an hour, just enough time for a swim, then head off to enjoy fresh fruit cocktails and ice cream while watching the sunset. It’s clear this is a popular spot for families who come to enjoy the evening by the sea.







Another great day!!

Wednesday, March 7th: splash and fun Almost every vacation, we dedicate a day to an amusement park. This time, it’s a water park—the water park—Atlantis Waterpark, which Franck has been dreaming about for years!!

To get there, we cross the city (highway) and then Palm Jumeirah, where residential neighborhoods follow one after another until the tip of the palm, where the famous hotel we had already admired from the sea is located. We park in the (free) parking lot indicated a few hundred meters before the entrance, then a shuttle takes us to the entrance. The inside of the hotel reminds us of all those grand casino hotels we’ve seen in Las Vegas—glittery, grandiose, kitschy!!

At the water park entrance, we exchange our vouchers (tickets bought on Viator) for wristbands. I also pay an extra 15 € for a locker to store our belongings. There aren’t many people this morning, so we easily find sun loungers by the pool.





I settle in with a book while the girls and their dad tackle the first slides. They come back to get me to admire the aquarium, through which a tunnel extends the slides.









I then go down one of the slides on a tube with them before exploring the different areas of the park.









Different dining areas are scattered throughout the park—hot dogs and fries for lunch… In the afternoon, we all go down the river on tubes, with sensations that remind us of rafting, alternating between calm floats with the current and "rapids" that splash us. Nearly 1 hour and 15 minutes of fun!!





After a (non-alcoholic) Piña Colada on the beach, I return to my sun lounger while the rest of the family continues having a blast on the slides. 😎



We leave the park a little before sunset and walk back to the car along the waterfront.

Hi there, I’m a big fan of the USA with over 10 trips under my belt.

Between Colorado and Dubai, what’s your take or vacation preference?

Thanks, and looking forward to hearing from you! Benoit

Really nothing alike!!! 😉

I love the USA and I truly fell in love with Colorado—I really regretted not spending more time there!! Our trip this summer was a road trip that took us from Denver to Yellowstone via Las Vegas, over 6,500 km in 1 month with stunning landscapes!!

Dubai was a vacation, sunshine in the heart of winter. More fun than authentic... but even though I went in with a pretty negative preconception, I was pleasantly surprised...

Now, if I had the choice and the budget, of course, I’d choose to go back to New York, spend time in Florida, visit Louisiana, return to Colorado, and discover Seattle and Chicago, etc...

Hi,

Thanks for this travel journal, Stéphanie. Family vacation reviews for Dubai aren’t very common (unlike the U.S. West Coast!), so your insights are really valuable.

After soaking up the sun in Florida last February, we’re heading to the UAE in October to experience the climate there. Some friends got transferred there, so we’re taking advantage of the opportunity! Otherwise, I’m not sure we would’ve ever gone, since I had the same preconceptions about Dubai: artificial, flashy, nothing authentic to visit, expensive... But now, it’d be a shame to miss out, especially since our teens are dreaming of Atlantis and quad biking in the desert!

Was your 4x4 desert excursion in Liwa?

Your misadventure with the passenger behind you on the plane made me laugh. The same thing happened to me in February, but there was no way I was spending 9 hours of flight uncomfortable—I waited for him to go to the bathroom to recline my seat. Seriously!

Thanks, that was exactly the goal of this travel journal!!

Honestly, I couldn’t tell you about the 4x4 excursion—I booked through Getyourguide, and the local agency was OceanTravel. But from what our guide said, all the agencies go to the same area...

For the flight, I really tried, but that **** kept the seat stuck....

Dubai is kind of a giant open-air theme park, and honestly, there isn’t much that’s authentic. Even the sea feels artificial, in a way. But with kids, it’s amazing—plus, the weather’s always nice, even if summer is unbearable. In four years, I’ve only had one rainy day 🤪 There’s a lot to say about the hidden side of the Emirates, but this isn’t the place. Do some digging yourself, and you’ll get the idea.

There’d be a lot to say about the hidden side of the Emirates, but this isn’t the place. Do your own research and you’ll get an idea.

I’m fully aware of that!! Anyway, you shouldn’t kid yourself—behind every paradise there’s a dark side (and I’m far from considering Dubai a paradise...)

Thursday, March 8: let’s stroll through the gardens!! This morning’s highlight was Miracle Garden, an extraordinary garden located a bit on the outskirts of the city, right in the middle of a construction zone—the contrast makes it even more striking!! As soon as you walk in, you’re overwhelmed by the scent of millions of flowers that make up these extravagant floral sculptures.







Including a life-size A380.







After this floral interlude, we head back to the Mall of the Emirates. It’s a chance to see that the dress code tolerance is much more relaxed than the signs at the entrance suggested!! A huge food court lets everyone grab lunch to their taste—our chance to finally try Shake Shack burgers, which we missed in the US!! They’re actually pretty good!! No shopping planned for today (it’s not really our thing anyway). What we came to see here is Ski Dubai, the famous indoor ski slope!! First, we walk through a massive arcade game area.



Then we finally find the viewpoint overlooking the ski slope. We just wanted to see this totally absurd thing in the middle of the desert!!





Back to the hotel for a pool break before heading out to discover another garden, just a few kilometers away in Zabeel Park. This park, right in the city center, is split into two parts by a highway!! So of course, we go to the wrong side first… We’re getting used to it, but it’s a chance to spot the Dubai Frame, a new “monument” just inaugurated. I later read it offers a new view of the city—maybe next time!!



On the second try, we find the entrance to Dubai Glow Garden (a pedestrian bridge will soon connect the two parts of the park). This garden has two attractions: a Dinosaur Park and a garden of illuminated sculptures—we came to see the latter.





At the heart of Glow Garden is the Iced Park: we put on parkas, and the contrast is striking—it’s -8°C inside this building filled with ice sculptures!!







When we come out, night has fallen, and we can fully enjoy the magic of the illuminated sculptures.









We take a quick look at the life-size dinosaurs with sound effects and movements. It’s not really our thing, but I imagine dinosaur fans would find it impressive.

Friday, March 9: chilling before departure 😎 Last day of this sunny holiday …. We head back to the Al Mamzar neighborhood to enjoy the beach before leaving. This time, we go to Al Mamzar Beach Park, which has a paid entrance. Since it’s Friday (the equivalent of Sunday for us), it’s packed—families, workers on leave, large green spaces under the trees with barbecue areas. It really looks like American beach parks, and the vibe is the same too, with families arriving loaded with coolers, tents set up on the lawns or the beach, and music blasting ….







We find a palm tree on the beach and settle in the shade. The plan: sunbathing, reading, and swimming ….







Laura set herself up a little away from us …a young guy of Philippine origin starts hitting on her in English while we go to grab some food!! I quickly shoo him away, and the little one comes running back to her dad!! Then we head back to the hotel to pack, take a quick nap, and have one last dip in the pool before dinner at an Applebee’s right by the hotel. Around 9 PM, we head to the airport—we’ve got plenty of time since the flight takes off at 1:30 AM, but we don’t want to risk it!! Of course, we miss the exit the first time, but we find the car rental agencies without too much trouble. The Hertz guy gives the car a thorough inspection—all good, everything’s OK. Overnight return flight went smoothly; we land at Roissy at 6 AM with all our luggage …. We struggle a bit to find the shuttle waiting area for the parking lot …turns out you have to follow the "hotel" signs. Finally, we find our car …and head home. After the nearly sleepless night we had, the drive back to Nantes is a bit tough …we’ll need plenty of breaks!!

So, the verdict on this week in Dubai: As I mentioned earlier, the whole family loved this vacation. Because it really was more of a holiday than a trip. I’d planned to visit a lot more places, like the Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi and Al Ain, the garden city (which also has archaeological sites), but the fatigue from the pace of the last few months, plus the fact that this summer’s trip wasn’t exactly restful, led us to take it easier than usual!! Sure, to take it easy, we could’ve booked a resort, but after two days, we’d have been bored to death. What we loved about this destination was the variety of places and activities while still being able to enjoy the beach and the sun …. Of course, it’s a city without much history, where excess often borders on madness …a kind of giant theme park …but all in all, it’s a great place for a vacation …when you know what to expect! And honestly, we’re already thinking of coming back next year, this time combining a few days in Abu Dhabi with a few days in Dubai …because there’s still so much to discover!

I went skiing in Dubai. It’s actually a pretty successful experience. You can even enjoy a hot chocolate on the slopes, on the terrace, under heaters.... A great memory.

hi there, I’m taking the liberty of answering your question by sharing a link that’ll let you book a desert safari outing if you’re heading to Dubai: www.arabiansafaridubai.com

I picked this agency during one of my many trips to Dubai, and I don’t regret it at all. As for your "concerns" about staying there, rest assured—I’ve been there six times, and I can tell you that safety-wise, it’s 100%. Nothing to worry about, no matter the time of day or night. Zero risk. Have a great trip!

😊 A BIG THANK YOU for your feedback! I think your trip and all the content are amazing. 😉 It’s so patient of you to take the time to detail and share your vacation like this🙂 Well done!

Thanks so much! I really like planning my trips based on other people’s experiences—it helps me get a better idea, and it’s true that there’s not much info out there on Dubai!! So if this can help...

Thanks so much for this really comprehensive account! I’ve been to Dubai and Abu Dhabi twice (2 days + 3 days) during layovers on my way to Asia. I’ve traveled all over the world, and I think these are really appealing places that aren’t too far away. My husband was hesitant at first, but he was won over. We’ll probably go back and keep exploring the area... Dubai is a mix of Disneyland and Las Vegas! It’s a great idea for a family trip—there’s something for everyone.

I loved the old Iranian quarter of Bastakiya (and the Arabian Tea House), and the museum is really interesting. I adore modern architecture, and there are some stunning buildings. We opted for the Big Bus (plus metro and taxis) and took a ferry tour around the sea (super cheap). You’ve given me some ideas for places to see if we ever go back...

hi stephfamily,

What a funny coincidence... We went on a family trip (with our 3 teens) to the American West last summer and... to the Emirates, but in the fall! After reading this travel journal, I feel like we took (almost) the same trip!! Just without Miracle Garden but with Abu Dhabi and Al-Ain instead. Same impressions, same surprises, and even more reactions from family and friends about choosing this destination.

Go take a look at my blog (sorry, I don’t double it with a travel journal here), it’s pretty amusing how similar our trips were!

https://clamaxjusabpo.blogspot.fr/

PO

So, what are your next destinations, by the way?!

You're right, it's practically a copy-paste! I had Abu Dhabi and Al Ain in my plans too, but as I explained, we ended up skipping them to take our time in Dubai. Your travel journal only made me want to go there even more!! And Oman will definitely be part of our future projects...

I also loved your conclusion!! I couldn’t find the words to express it, especially after all the negative reactions I faced that really threw me off!! I totally agree that every country has its dark side, and we’d stop traveling if we avoided every destination where there’s something we don’t approve of!!! And preconceptions are so hard to shake!!

Our next destinations: Corsica this summer, and Abu Dhabi is in the plans for next winter. Summer 2019, Canada... though that could change since we’ve got no shortage of ideas!!

Anyway, I’m keeping your blog bookmarked—this first read makes me want to see more! ;)

Hi, Thanks for the link. My concerns aren’t about safety. I’m convinced there’s less risk of having my wallet stolen in Dubai than in Paris! Have a great day

We were also shocked by these negative preconceptions about the UAE. It's a shame that so many people have such a narrow mindset. But we encourage our friends and family as much as possible to "go see somewhere else," near or far, it doesn’t matter. That’s also why I ended the article that way—it seems important to me to accept other ways of life.

We’re going on a cruise in two weeks (another case of preconceptions!), then the eastern USA (and a bit of Canada ;)) this summer, Jordan in October, and likely Malaysia-Singapore-Borneo in summer 2019. I see you’re planning just as far ahead as I am!

Back to Dubai—nice hotel!!

Happy trip planning,

PO

Cool plans ... I’ll check out the recaps on your blog ;)

Hi there, A big thank you for sharing! We were in Dubai for New Year’s and visited a lot of the same places—I felt like I was reliving our trip. As a family of four, we opted for the metro and buses with a super cheap weekly pass, so no regrets given the traffic and signage. You need to buy the transport card at a metro counter as soon as you arrive at the airport and ask for the rate for the number of days you want. We took the abra, the traditional boat that crosses the creek—it’s awesome for just 1 euro per person for the crossing. We also went to Jumeirah Beach, the spot called "La Mer" in French—very chic and full of expats, but we had a great time. We didn’t have time for Abu Dhabi this time, so next time for sure. Against all odds, we loved it for the sunshine, the beach, the safety, and the kindness of the staff. We stayed in the popular Banyas Square area at the Hyatt—it was great and budget-friendly (New Year’s week was a must!). We’ll definitely be back! Elsa

Hi Steph,

You’ve really made us want to take a trip to Dubai. Plus, several cruise agencies offer stopovers in Dubai, and the prices are great! Thanks for this beautiful travel story and amazing photos!

Hi Stéphanie, Another big thank you for this travel journal I followed with so much pleasure. It brought back memories (my journal is on another forum) and introduced me to places we didn’t know about (the arch, the gardens, your beach...). We’ll probably go back, as we want to spend more time in Abu Dhabi and see the Louvre. We only spent a day there (by taxi with a guide) from Dubai, and between the falcon hospital, the Grand Mosque, the new Louvre district, and the eco-city of Masdar, time was really short. We also went to Al Ain—so beautiful!

Thanks again, Best regards,

Thanks for your feedback!

I’m already starting to plan another trip, this time to Abu Dhabi, since I think you can definitely spend several days there...

We were also shocked by these negative preconceptions about the UAE. It's a shame that so many people have such a narrow mindset. But we encourage people around us as much as possible to "go see elsewhere," near or far, it doesn’t matter. That’s also why I concluded the article that way—it seems important to accept other ways of life.... PO

Uh, how to put this... narrow mindset... Shouldn’t we flip the perspective here? Even if the UAE is undoubtedly one of the most open countries in the Gulf, it doesn’t change the fact that you should do some research online to see what life is like for expat workers in the country (Emiratis make up about 10% of the population, the rest are immigrant workers, from laborers to senior executives). But this isn’t the place to discuss that.

hi Stephfamily! After reading your post, you inspired me to visit Dubai. And the decision is made—we’re going in July thanks to you ;) Could you let me know the name of the hotel where you stayed? Thanks so much!

thanks, I hope the heat won’t stop you from enjoying it because in July, the climate must be pretty stifling!!! (but hey, there’s AC everywhere 😉 )

Our hotel was the Al Salam Hotel and Suites, located in the business district.

I wish you a great trip in advance!

Thanks, I hope the heat won’t stop you from enjoying it because in July, the climate must be pretty stifling!!! (but hey, there’s AC everywhere 😉 )

Our hotel was the Al Salam Hotel and Suites, located in the business district. I wish you a great trip in advance!

In July, you literally can’t do anything on foot or outside. It’s over 45°C in the shade with nearly 100% humidity. And don’t count on pleasant evenings—the temperature only drops by one degree, maybe two at most. No terraces, everything happens indoors, even at night.

Thanks for the story! I’ve only read the first day of your trip so far... I’ll keep going because I’m leaving in 3 weeks, so I need to plan and follow your adventures (or not—I haven’t read the rest yet). I only booked yesterday... to be continued...

Good evening, I’d like to answer your question by sharing a link to book a stay in Dubai with a discount using a promo code. You can book directly through this site: viator.com I personally booked with this agency during my last trip to Dubai, and I wasn’t disappointed. The service quality was impeccable, and everything was perfectly organized. As for safety, I can reassure you—it’s a city I’ve visited several times, and I’ve always felt safe, no matter the time of day or night. Don’t forget you can also get extra discounts by using a promo code available on the Bucks Discount website! Happy trip planning!