Why South Africa? A simple example!

Hello everyone...

Well, here I am, back again...

By chance, a bit like Mrs. Attila, my route roughly followed the same paths I took 8 and 6 years ago... I even thought of various travel journal titles like... "Where the grass has grown back!"

And then. People who know me (and some forum members) must be wondering:

"Why come back so often, almost every year since the 2000s, to this part of the world?"

Usually, I answer:

For the people, the landscapes, the animals. Because it’s a big country, a very big one where the horizon feels even farther away.

A country with so much variety—deserts, mountains, oceans, cities...

Because it’s a country that’s quite easy for "average" Europeans to navigate in terms of hygiene, food, driving, and way of life... Because you can plan your entire trip from your living room, all by yourself.

And because there’s still a pioneer spirit in the air.

And most of all, it’s a country that has turned toward the future without forgetting its past, giving the word "forgiveness" its full meaning.

Well, all that... those are just words.

Here comes, little by little, an example of a "classic" itinerary—simple, reliable, efficient, and balanced. Three weeks of discoveries, a first taste of this country!

Hence the final title of this travel journal:

Why South Africa? A simple example!

The 2018 trip:

Straddling May and early June. A first for me at these dates. (In that area, I’d been in September and October, also August and July... and April.) My worry? The cold! Especially at the start in GG... and at the end in Kruger.

It could’ve been worse—and it was for those who went under snow and negative temperatures at Mountain Retreat the following week.

The open 4x4 drives were freezing!

But zero rain! Plenty of sunshine from the Drakensberg (except Days 1 and 2) to Isimangaliso... with a dip (more like a quick splash) in the Indian Ocean. Wind in Kruger and Manyeleti... and wind isn’t great for the animals.

3,500 km in total—detours and drives included!

Joburg / Golden Gate (Mountain Retreat, 2N) / Antbear Lodge, 2N / St Lucia (Whalesong Guest House, 1N), Tembe Elephant Park, 2N), Isimangaliso (Makakatana Bay Lodge, 3N), Eswatini, Hlane NP, Ndlovu camp, 1N, Berg en Dal, Lower Sabie, Satara, Letaba (1N each), Manyeleti, 2N, Sabie Sands, Umkumbe, 1N, Dullstroom, Crichton Hackle Lodge, 1N, and Joburg).

First off...

I’d promised a map of the GG trails.



I want to be really clear...

The map isn’t great, and the signage is minimal. One misinterpretation led us onto some really tough sections... The Mushroom isn’t a loop but just a straightforward out-and-back... if you keep going like we did... you always think you’re about to reach the summit... and eventually you do... but...

A map of the Highmoor paths.

It’s quite a hike, pretty easy but still a decent walk.



A map of St. Lucia Beach interconnections are closed to cars, and the mouth area is off-limits.

Hi there,

I’ll be one of your readers—I’m planning a trip to South Africa in August 2019! Normally, it’ll be 3 weeks on a classic route, or maybe a little more offbeat with a detour into the Limpopo region.

The Limpopo, why not. I went there and don’t regret a thing, but it’s also a matter of time. In the west, Marakele; in the center, Soutpansberg and Mapungubwe; in the east, Venda Country and the Tzaneen and Haenertsburg regions.

Hello Michel, It’s done, I’m back... 😕 I’m diving right in to make the most of it with your intro, which is already making my mouth water. And thanks for the Highmoor map—super helpful.

"but why come back so often, almost every year since the 2000s, to this part of the world?"

Maybe, quite simply and selfishly, for your happiness and the emotions this region brings you. Some people string together different destinations because they want to experience as many cultures, landscapes, and monuments as possible. That’s a respectable approach—time flies, after all. Among my circle, I even know people who use the term "doing" a destination, ticking it off their checklist and listing their "achievements" in conversations. I struggle a bit with that mindset, but hey, everyone’s free to make their own choices.

But it’s just as respectable to fall in love with a region of the world, like you have, to dream of returning every year or regularly because the desire to come back is stronger than the urge to explore somewhere new. Travel involves financial sacrifices, so you might as well get the most enjoyment out of it. When my wife talks about our first trip to Southern Africa (SAF for us), she still has stars in her eyes, even almost two years later. So we’ll have to go back...

Can’t wait for the rest! 🙂 !

Oh finally!!!! I'm starting to get tired of coming home alone while the buddies keep having fun over there! 😛 Generally speaking, the hiking maps and park maps are still a bit poorly made. The worst is definitely the Hlane Park map... Anyway, just like Mme Agnès, thanks for sharing your incredible experience of the country.

Hi Michel, Great to see a new travel journal! I’m jumping ahead a bit in your story: could you give me your thoughts on the Whalesong guesthouse? I’ve already booked in St Lucia, but I’m not entirely sure about my choice. Thanks for your reply, Christine

Friendly welcome, simple but fine room, good breakfast, a pool, all on one of the slightly set-back streets so... no problem for me.

Thanks Michel for your quick reply.

I always board with great excitement, since I can only follow this country online now 🙁

There's room in the Fortuner...

From Hertz, no problem—on the contrary, asked for a 4x2...it was delivered as a 4x4! Automatic.

The proud steed



Automatic is great for those less experienced with 4x4s. It’s also handy if you’re not used to driving on the left. 4x4...not really necessary except in Tembe’s sand...and on a few small loops in Kruger or to reach the final destination in Manyeleti. The car’s a bit big...but it’s more comfortable and safer! I’d vote for that. It’s not necessarily the thing to skimp on since it’s a safety—and comfort—factor. A place where you’ll spend a lot of time!

In South Africa, driving is always a bit stressful due to the—bad—habits of local drivers. They drive too fast, and road markings are just indicative. Similarly...vehicles going at very different speeds can be on the same road, especially trucks and public transport.

You’ve got to be cautious, and just because 120 is the limit doesn’t mean you should drive at 120.

Plus...there are pedestrians by the roadside, including lots of schoolkids...cows and goats. To make things trickier...those infamous potholes and traffic calming humps.

Watch out for speed cameras too...

For the license: an international one is technically required. As usual, neither the rental company, customs, nor the police (even in Eswatini)...nobody...asked for the precious document.

Tick fever!

In South Africa, a certain tick transmits rickettsiosis.

(It’s not Lyme disease.)

What’s unique about this tick is that it doesn’t stay attached to its host. It bites and then takes off... So, you only find evidence of its bite... usually when you’re already sick.

In my case:

Moderate fever, fatigue, chills, etc., a few days before returning. The start of a sore throat or who knows what!

No more symptoms in the following days, but the guy just wouldn’t get better!

French lab tests didn’t provide any explanations.

A good dose of Doxycycline served as the diagnosis—the proof was in the treatment.

The bite... it eventually showed up between two toes (me, who never goes barefoot outside!).

Well, from now on, we’ll be even more careful about ticks and pack Doxycycline just in case!

Apart from that (a first for me)... South Africa remains a safe country in terms of health (water, food, etc.). For malaria... It’s present east of the Musina/Richards Bay line. I don’t take anything, but I mostly travel between May and November... In that malaria zone, I’d think twice about traveling during another season. Mosquito protection, yes! I’m not getting into the bar-stool debate of "what do *you* take?" Everyone decides for themselves. (My advice, after catching tick fever, is worth what it’s worth!).

Hi Michel,

Thanks for taking the time to share your passion for South Africa with us! 😛 🙂

my journey roughly followed the routes I took 8 and 6 years ago...

Any nostalgia vibes going on here? 😉

Left Tambo in a hurry. Headed south. Departed before noon, expected to arrive at GG before nightfall.

A quick stop to grab a bite and do some shopping.

https://www.google.fr/maps/dir/A%C3%A9roport+international+OR+Tambo+(JNB), +1+Jones+Rd, +Kempton+Park, +Johannesburg, +1632, +Afrique+du+Sud/Golden+Gate+Highlands+National+Park, +Clarens, +Afrique+du+Sud/@-28.1111361,27.5158851,7z/data=!4m24!4m23!1m15!1m1!1s0x1e95143805a229c3:0xb3bf1c40792821d6!2m2!1d28.2411459!2d-26.1366728!3m4!1m2!1d28.5305249!2d-27.2428748!3s0x1e934e34a46b4749:0xceef76bf063dd925!3m4!1m2!1d28.7742939!2d-28.3835026!3s0x1ef2a9f369107765:0xb4380a953cb4d42d!1m5!1m1!1s0x1e8d532e446c5195:0x64e96049eb394351!2m2!1d28.6166667!2d-28.5166667!3e0

Mountain retreat:

This is one of the chalets that’ll be our lodging for the next few nights.

Tucked away on a summit at the end of the Oribi loop, it’s already a bit of a drive to get there. It’s simple but cozy—just what you’d expect from a San Park chalet. What really matters is the view... We’re at 2,000 meters.

We’re starting with some uncooperative weather and wind strong enough to knock the horns off buffalo and moose!













The aforementioned chalets

Well, it’s cold! It’s windy! It’s cloudy!

Can’t complain, though—we can go for a walk without getting too hot... it’s not raining... and who knows about tomorrow?

Day 1

After a late arrival, The chalets are reached via the Oribi loop

Here’s the map again



Here’s the entrance



A wood fire to warm up the atmosphere... the tiny electric heater is for the bedroom!



A quick meal at the park’s restaurant... it’s on the map. You can drive at night in this park. As for the restaurant, let’s just say we ate somewhere warm, pretty good, and I got to speak a bit of Zulu.

The next day turns out to be windy and changeable. The view remains exceptional.





Not many animals, but still some brown wildebeest and zebras, plus jackals





Landscapes—remember, the weather was changeable...











The chalets seen from afar !

We’re also joining mainly because part of the itinerary is the same as ours, so it’s super helpful for our planning.

Awesome! This reminds me that in just a month, it’ll be my turn! I’ll be following this travel journal with a lot of interest 😉

Loop...

Two loops—the first is Oribi, and the second a bit further on.









By the way, are these zebras Hartmann’s or Mountain zebras?





Really cool... cloudy version, though.

On the last one, look closely at the mushrooms (the peaks that look a bit like them)... we’ll talk about them soon.

How a simple walk turns into an expedition...

After the car loop, despite the changeable weather, we head to the start of the hikes (near the campsite).

We choose the Mushroom trail (see the map)...supposedly 45 minutes and a breeze.

And off we go... on a gentle slope.













Here we are at the foot of the mushroom.

Signage = 0

We carry on a bit.





The view is great...

Isn’t there much left to reach the summit?

We keep going. There are no markers.



The problem is that at every tricky section...we tell ourselves it’s the last one. That it’d be a shame not to finish. That afterward, according to the map, we have to go back down...



And each time, it gets tougher.

It’d be a shame to have come all this way just to turn back now...

WOW!!!!! Vertigo or not? Either way, what a stunning view—great job sticking with it, totally worth it!

Except that...

After working hard to reach the summit...



And admiring the view.



On the way back down... there isn’t... there’s just a row of stones with a "close" sign...

So, what do we do?



Well, we don’t have a choice... about-face!

I’ll spare you the photos of the exploit.

And here are some baboons for you!



Since the weather was nicer on the way down... here are some more photos for you











Alright, let’s go home! (Note to self: mushroom ≠ a trail, path = 0 markers, be careful)

Anyway, we don’t regret it. Our calves are killing us.











You get why Mrs. Attila (and now me too) have a soft spot for Mountain Retreat?

It’s cold up there, though!

What a view from the Mountain Retreat! Almost the same as at the top of the mushroom, but without the calf pain 😏! It makes for more memories when your legs hurt...

Beautiful view... but luckily the big clouds turned into clear spells instead of a huge storm or pea-soup fog 🤪. Muriel

It's way up there!

For those who still doubt our Drakensberg climbing skills (the Australian equivalent of an alpinist)...

The mushroom



Its buddy



The final passage

At dawn...

The sun is shining brightly. The wind has swept the sky, leaving it with a magnificent clarity. Can you see all the way to Cathedral Peak?

The photos speak for themselves.

Hi Michel,

I’m joining in too... What a lovely hike—this kind of scenery really appeals to me. The rocks in all those colors, I love it! 🙂

See you soon, Carmen

Mountain Retreat review

A beautiful place with stunning views.

Two loops to do by car. Fun with a few animals.

Several hikes and walks—make sure to gauge the difficulty and don’t expect signs along the way. (They start from the campsite by the road.) A small shop for firewood, a few supplies, hats...beer and wine (note: normally no alcohol on Sundays, but an exception was made for us). A very "hotel-like" hotel without much charm...same for the restaurant...but the food isn’t bad. Self-catering accommodations that seem pretty nice but are right by the road (not busy in May).

Don’t forget that Mountain Retreat is over 2,000 meters high. It was cold and windy on Day 1...nearly impossible to get a normal temperature in the chalet except in the bedroom. That said, there are heated blankets and the option to make a fire (don’t forget extra firewood on top of what’s provided). A decent bathroom and a good bed. Self-catering is totally doable—just like all the San Parks I know, it’s very well equipped.

Obviously sunny...but you’ve seen the photos!





A quick side note—during the Blesboek Loop, there’s a small flooded section. A small car drowned its engine there...it happened to people ahead of us! It’s on the road to the dam.



Final note: this isn’t an enclosed park but is crossed by the Harrysmith/Clarens road.

Cathedral Peak...

We're heading out today to the central Drakensberg.

We decide to go via Cathedral Peak.

First, we follow the lakes in the area.



Then we move onto the only dead-end road. Drive carefully—lots of pedestrians, domestic animals, and a few bumps that are a bit sneaky.





To arrive at the park.

Lunch at a restaurant in a South African resort.





And a visit to Didima, the KZN accommodation. Really lovely in the sunshine.





Note to self: next time... Didima!

All that aside, we've got a bit of a drive ahead...

Further south (we're skipping Giants and Champagne Valley, already seen them).

The central Drakensberg and our stop...seems great because...

Because from there, we've got a view of the entire Drakensberg range. We're in a much less touristy spot. We're an hour away from Giants, Valley, Kamberg, and Highmoor... Basically, we're strategically well-placed.

Now we just have to get there...Even though we know the way...But, how to put it...a communication breakdown between pilot and co-pilot made us lose our way... So we're crossing the heart of the Drakensberg.

With way more "village" crossings than the photos suggest.













Passing by the Mooi River Nature Reserve...which is a hidden gem...hardly visited!





Almost at nightfall.

So Antbear...

At first, Connie and Andrew set up this guest house attached to a farm lost in this corner of the Drakensberg. (See previous travel journals for more.) On the hill—come on, with the zoom it’s better, right?









The big plus, on top of the location, the view, the lovely rooms, the good meal... The host table with the owners. (See the other travel journal entries for reference.)

It’s all well and good... but you’ve got to make a living, and since this area has changed a lot (for the better)... a few more tourists, a game reserve right next door... At first, not a single light on the horizon at night... today, the villages are lit up...

So... a few more rooms, a much larger restaurant building, a chef... and less conviviality.



That’s progress.

It’s still a great stop, for the same reasons... including the fact that they support a lot of people... they’re pretty much self-sufficient, in fact.

I still recommend this place.

Maps of this area

Hi Michel,

If there’s still a little spot, I’m in too! Thanks for your travel journal and the beautiful photos—they bring back such great memories. We went to South Africa in August 2000 and stayed 2 nights at Golden Gate Highlands National Park. We loved that place, and the weather was gorgeous. I’d love to read the rest. Liliane

Welcome, the road will be long...

I’m taking responsibility for this!

In my opinion, the Highmoor hike is one of the most beautiful in the Drakensberg—and it’s not even complicated!

First, you drive facing the entire Drakensberg range!

From left to right:

South Ridge / Giants Castle / the start of Long Walk

Mafadi and Champagne Castle



Cathkin Peak, Mount Memory, Dragons Back



The end of Dragons Back, Cathedral Peak



Eastern Buttresses and Amphitheatre



Mount-aux-Sources and Sentinel



And all of this... we’re gonna see it up close!

You're keeping the suspense going with that famous hike... 😉

A huge THANK YOU for these two Drakensberg maps—it's a goldmine! They’re basically a multi-activity guide plus hotels and restaurants, twice as comprehensive as all the paper guides combined!

That said, after printing, some of the small print isn’t readable. Would your scan allow for a higher resolution? Or is it just VoyageForum’s aggressive compression...? No worries if not—we’ll still have plenty to work with. 😉 Thanks for sharing... 🙂

Well, this is a wild VF compression...

A map on the Midlands Meander site.

The site doesn’t work very well, but... I’ll try to share some hiking maps...

Highmoor

First, the little access road to the plateau...









We arrive at the plateau where the entrance is located.

The entrance seen from the park, where the trees are.



The plateau overlooks



A really nice little stream







An attempt at a panoramic shot

We carry on...

It's pretty flat, so it's quite easy (especially for experienced hikers...).

It can take about 3 hours... but you can make it much longer if you want.

The view... you constantly have a view of the entire Drakensberg and the whole valley... and we haven’t even done everything yet. Reminder: trail map in the first posts.

Downside: in the hot season... it must get *really* hot. After the autumn fires, if they happen, the landscape will look different.















Alright, I’ll add more tomorrow.

A set of maps... more readable?

In addition to the stunning access route, what a magnificent hike that lets you enjoy several 😇 lakes! It’s now on my shortlist 😉, along with the Didima area and Moncks Cowl - Sphinx in Champagne Valley. And thanks for all these new super-detailed maps 🙂

A promise made is a promise kept.





You won’t run into anyone... you might catch a glimpse, from afar, of the reserve guards.









Well, I guess you’ve figured out that I really like this place?

And I’ve only done a small part of the hikes on offer!!!!!

Wrap-up...

This spot is underrated...

Most people head to Royal Natal, Giants Castle... and overlook this central Drakensberg area.

Less touristy, more "authentic", more "real"... Well, that's just my opinion.

Personally, I think rushing from one site to another only lets you pass through... sometimes, you need to stay a while.

This central Drakensberg lets you see this area but also easily visit Giants and Champagne on a day trip... and it's nice not to haul your suitcases around every day.

So... give this spot a try... I hope I’ve tempted you!

And (they’ll tease me for this!) like the Lions Head hike... it’s worth it!

Okay, I’ve done what I could... maps... some promo... photos!

What (and they’ll laugh!) like the Lions Head climb... it’s totally worth it!

I’ve got to admit, we did it during our Cape Town stay thanks to your advice—which turned out to be spot-on 😉! I can’t remember which thread I read it in, but since then, I’ve realized there’s more than one... 😛

Alright, I did what I could... maps... ads... photos!

There’s already one family convinced, and you really made the prep easy 😎!

Hey Michel,

That’s a great sell! 😛 🙂

Thanks for making our mouths water like that, and thanks for the super practical maps! 🙂

I’m convinced too—it’s too bad we can’t add it to our itinerary.

I totally agree with you. It's a country full of surprises that you can't stop thinking about once you've left. You definitely dream of going back every year.

Heading to St Lucia...

Still a very classic route, heading to Maputaland / Isimangaliso while avoiding Durban (Durban, which has an increasingly bad reputation).

So? Mooi River / Greyton then full south on the national road. This gives us the chance to cross Zulu country. The trick is navigating through Mooi River to get to the other side of the national road and the railway line.

The country is changing...

I’ll come back to this, but the country is changing—and fast, in my opinion.

On this cross-country route, the first thing that surprises me is the absence of shacks and the near-disappearance of townships / slums. The buildings are very different—even luxurious... when you plan a garage for two cars... when you add columns... it means you’ve moved beyond just a functional home to one that’s also about pleasure.



We’re far from the "hut" with one door and one window, made of mud brick / concrete that was common in the early 2000s.



Most houses now also have a bit of land around them.



What worries me is the chaotic construction and the waste of arable land.

It’s like someone tossed a handful of pebbles, and wherever they landed, a house was built.



The roads have improved... there are now sidewalks to protect pedestrians... with paved paths running alongside the roads.



Likewise, 20 years ago... a car = white people, or if a car = Black people, that car = a wreck on wheels. That’s no longer true at all.

On the other hand, you can still tell when you’re entering a town

white side



or Black side

Awesome, thanks for this goldmine of info!