The Moussem of Moulay Abdallah Amghar

Hello,

I came across a series of photos I took at the Moussem of Moulay Abdallah Amghar four years ago. This moussem takes place about ten kilometers south of El Jadida, by the sea. Little known, if not unknown, to foreigners, it’s actually one of the most important popular cultural events in Morocco. Like the old great Breton pardons, it blends religion and secular celebrations. It’s said to draw over 200,000 participants/pilgrims and nearly 10,000 horsemen. It happens in the summer, usually in August.

First, a moussem is a religious festival in honor of the local saint—in this case, Moulay Abdallah. The heart of the village is occupied by the saint’s tomb, topped by the mosque’s minaret. Two additional tombs belong to two of the saint’s wives.

The moussem lasts about a week. The saint’s tomb draws a constant crowd of devotees. Inside, it’s packed. Surrounded by a railing, pilgrims buy candles, light them, and toss them over the railing.

Outside, there’s a crowd of fortune-tellers, women offering henna, and other curiosities. Here’s the entrance to the marabout.

The tombs of the 2 wives

The village streets are filled with countless stalls where crowds stroll during the day. The actual festivities will kick off at 5 PM with fantasias, the funfair, Moroccan music concerts, and more. So in the afternoon, the atmosphere is relaxed and friendly.

The moussem site is without a doubt the most astonishing thing I've seen in Morocco. For kilometers along a boulevard that runs alongside the ocean, the caidal tents line up, planted with their feet in the water and so close together that you can't even reach the sea just a few steps away. In front of each tent, the horses.

There's only one way to take in the site as a whole. You have to go for a ride on the Ferris wheel and try to take some photos. But you won't regret the trip 😊.

On one side, toward El Jadida, you see the road lined with hundreds of caidal tents, then further inland, a completely surreal wild campsite. People come from far away to the moussem, and families move in and settle for often at least 2 weeks.

To the south, the same ocean of tents, as far as the eye can see and much farther than the photo shows.

We continue

One of the secular activities of the Moussem is a funfair whose attractions seem to come straight out of a past we thought was long gone.



or even better...



getting better and better.



not to mention the little kids.



The Moussem of Moulay Abdallah is first and foremost the grand Moussem of the Tbourida. Moulay Abdallah is the only place where I’ve seen a permanent, purpose-built stadium for Fantasias. As I mentioned, it’s estimated that 10,000 riders (and their horses) gather here from all over the kingdom—I didn’t count them, though! 😄 Sure, there’s now a national Tbourida championship in El Jadida, but it’s organized by the authorities, and the atmosphere doesn’t compare to the Moussem.

For a week, the "Sorba" (groups of riders) from all over Morocco come to cool off, their feet in the water, putting on a magnificent live spectacle that’s completely ignored by tourists. There aren’t any tourists. Zero.







At 5 PM, the Tbourida (or Fantasias) begin. The tent city shakes off its torpor and starts to come alive. The groups of riders (Sorba) get ready.





and one last one for good measure...

Thanks for these illustrated details! The "camping" of the caidal tents is mind-blowing... (more cramped than at the old plows 😛)

Hi Dominique,

What a beautiful job on this travel journal. I just discovered this moussem, and you’ve made me want to go. Keep showing us this other side of Morocco.

Hi,

I discovered this moussem through a TV documentary at the end of the last century. Since then, I’ve been there about four times. The best thing is to set your bags down in El Jadida for a few days, so you can explore the coast between Casablanca, Azemmour, El Jadida, Moulay Abdallah, and Oualidia. In August, the temperature rarely exceeds 30°C by the sea.

You should know that in summer, Fantasias are common all along the coast. You’ll come across them while wandering as far as Rabat and probably beyond. I’ve seen some in Oued Merzeg (south of Casa), El Mansouriah (near Mohammédia), Bouznika (Festival of Arts and Popular Traditions), Cherrat (Vine Festivals), Skhirat, etc.

What makes Moulay Abdallah special is that it’s a traditional moussem. There aren’t even parking lots for cars because there are so few. This crowd arrives by their own means—on foot, by grand taxi, car, or cart. Families settle in for a long stay—it’s their vacation. The atmosphere is really unique, and I have to say that the first few times, I was accompanied by Moroccans.

The following photos are precious to me because the moussem is a rare opportunity to see the falconers from the El Jadida region. We’re in Doukkala territory, an Arab tribe, which is likely where this falconry tradition comes from.



The few falconers’ tents are right on the main road, in a prime spot, so they’re easy to find. There are falconry demonstrations.



And another one—you never get tired of them!



More to come soon!

So many memories! Thanks for sharing this. One thing you absolutely shouldn’t miss: eating *sfenj* (doughnuts) with mint tea under one of the many tents! Culture shock guaranteed.

Hello

The moussem is actually really nice. As you said, it’s not crowded with tourists, despite some communication efforts, which means you can enjoy it in peace. People don’t mind being photographed, and you’re not in an atmosphere where tourists are seen as a source of income :D

We’re among the Doukkala, an Arab tribe, which is likely where this falcon-hunting tradition comes from

No, the Doukkalis aren’t Arab. They’re not Berber either. At least not originally :) There’s something totally unique in the Doukkala region—the *tazota*—which doesn’t exist anywhere else, at least not in Morocco. It’s more likely that the Doukkalis are descendants of Morocco’s pre-Arab and pre-Berber populations.

The falcon-hunting tradition, by the way, is reserved for a single tribe, which is the only one allowed to hunt young falcons, raise them, and—very occasionally and under strict control—sell them.

And the tradition starts young :D But I can’t post my photos—they’re not 2000 pixels wide ^^

Hi there,

It's true that the change of scenery is guaranteed, especially for someone who isn't Moroccan. You never forget a visit to Moulay Abdellah because it's unique—it's a real culture shock.

So our troops are gathering...



The Fantasia grounds are permanent. There are concrete bleachers, like in a football stadium. The only issue is that they’re not big enough, and you have to elbow your way to get a good spot (or arrive very early, but the sun is brutal).



Another view of the stadium



And another. But this one’s a bit risky in my opinion.



To be continued...



The troops make two passes. The first, at a walk and then a trot, is meant to "show off"—the beauty of the horses, the tack, and the riders. It’s called the "Hadda."



The second pass is at a gallop and ends with the famous volley of gunshots. That’s the "Talka." It’s incredibly impressive when you’re facing the charge.







The term *Tbourida* comes from the word "baroud." It’s reminiscent of the expression "to make a last stand." It was the painter Delacroix who first introduced this event outside Morocco through his famous paintings (Orientalism). The writer Pierre Loti described it in detail in a journal published at the end of the 19th century, titled *Au Maroc*. The book was recently reissued in Morocco (available at the Fnac in Morocco Mall, Casablanca).

Thanks for these amazing photos and for your efforts.

This Moussem (fair or festival) is one of the best-known in Morocco, especially in the Doukala-Abda region (El Jadida, Safi, Moulay Abdellah, Sidi Bouzid...), and it’s primarily a gathering place for lovers of Tbourida, which comes from the Arabic word "baroud" meaning simply "gunpowder" and has nothing to do with the word "barouder."

The Doukkalis are a mix of Hilalian Arabs (Banu Hilal originally from the Hejaz in Saudi Arabia) and several Berber tribes like the Sanhajas, and I’ll add that the people in this region don’t speak a word of Berber. Moreover, the name of the person after whom the Moussem is named, Amghar, means "elder, chief" in Berber.

For those who want to attend the Moussem, there’s an official website that will give you all the necessary information: http://www.moulayabdellah.ma/

Thanks again!

Best regards

hi there we're so glad you dug into your archives! !😏 thanks! francia

Hi,

Thanks for the info on the origins of the Doukalis. That said, beyond the historical aspect of their roots, they consider themselves Arab without hesitation—because in Morocco, if you're not Berber, you're automatically Arab. My wife is a pure-blooded Doukalia, from the village of Chtouka near Azemmour. If I told my mother-in-law she isn't fully Arab, I'd be banned from couscous for the rest of my life!

If I tell my mother-in-law she’s not fully Arab, I’ll be banned from couscous for the rest of my life!

Hahahahahaha and Doukkala couscous is one of the best!😉

If I tell my mother-in-law she’s not fully Arab, I’ll be banned from couscous for the rest of my life!

Hahahahahaha and on top of that, Doukkala couscous is one of the best!😉

If I tell mine she’s Arab, she’ll cut me off from pastillas, moussems, and all those sweet treats!

Hello, What a magnificent report on this Moussem—I had no idea it existed despite my many trips to Morocco! The photos are stunning. Thank you so much for this discovery of Morocco "off the beaten path," as Hannah so aptly put it... I hope there will be more... 😉😉😉 Best regards, Clo

Hi,

Thanks for the info on the origins of the Doukalis. That said, beyond the historical aspect, they consider themselves Arab without hesitation—because in Morocco, if you're not Berber, you're automatically Arab. My wife is a purebred Doukalia, from the village of Chtouka near Azemmour. If I told my mother-in-law she's not completely Arab, I'd be banned from couscous for the rest of my life!

It’d be a shame to miss out on Doukalai couscous, one of the best in Morocco😉 "I’m Berber, you’re Arab, he’s Sahrawi"—those kinds of statements don’t really mean much when you know a bit about Moroccan history. Few people truly know their origins, much like the horses ridden in the "tbourida": the Arabian Barbs we call "Khayl" or "Aoud slah/Aoud snah" (war horses, destriers) that are just as much Arab as they are Berber.

Unfortunately, this moussem is also known for less fantastic aspects—crowds go hand in hand with prostitution and pickpocketing.

Best regards

A real connoisseur, I see 😉

A real connoisseur, I see 😉

Hello, "Real connoisseur" is too much praise— I just try to learn as much as I can and taste all the dishes 😉 Best regards,

Thanks for sharing this other side of Morocco with us!! Great idea to take the Ferris wheel to get those amazing photos of thousands of tents! The photos of the horses galloping are stunning. I’d love to see a fantasia, but there’d be way too many people for me at that one 🤪!!!

Hello,

In the summer, Fantasias are concentrated along the coast, likely due to the temperature. I’ve seen a few, and I’d recommend the "National Festival of Traditional Arts" in Bouznika (30 km south of Rabat), which aims to promote and showcase Tbourida. It takes place in the second half of August, around the 20th, over 5 days, so after Moulay Abdellah. The best troupes in Morocco gather there, and the level is high. There are fewer people than at Moulay Abdellah, of course. The troupes performing there are truly magnificent. Plus, the beach is nearby, along with many grilled meat and méchoui restaurants.

A photo of a horse and its rider in Bouznika.

What an atmosphere! Thanks! 🙂

Hi,

For those in Morocco at the end of July, the Moussem of Moulay Abdellah Amghar runs from July 19 to 26, 2019. Here’s the program:

http://www.moulayabdellah.ma/index.php

What a great idea for a report! Well done and thanks.