Our family trip from Denver to Yellowstone – a recap (page 1 of 4)

Hi there,

I’m diving into a recap of our loop—pretty classic, really—Denver-Yellowstone-Denver this past summer, from July 24 to August 17. Given the sheer number of trip reports already out there (or in the works), and since I don’t have the writing chops or the photography skills of many of you, I’ll keep it practical—well, I’ll try, at least—to share our take on some of the less-visited parks and spots.

First off, a huge thank you to everyone whose trip reports, blogs, websites, comments, and more helped us put together this itinerary. Looking back, it could’ve been even better optimized: a few disappointments when we missed out on some great discoveries, often because we were short on time. Plenty of reasons to come back to the area!

We’re traveling with our four (almost) teens—18, 16, 14, and nearly 12 years old. To keep the trip enjoyable for everyone, we had to make compromises on both sides: cutting a visit short to spend more time swimming, waking up at dawn, and so on. But logistics also played a big role—things like laundry, grocery shopping, and keeping luggage organized could’ve quickly become time-consuming without a little planning. And honestly, I think we visited every Walmart along the way! Blame it on the lack of fridges in some accommodations and, more importantly, the *very* limited space in the car, which made it impossible to bring a proper cooler. I’ll come back to the car saga later.

For accommodations, this year we alternated between basic cabins in KOA campgrounds and Yellowstone (when staying more than one night in the same place) and hotels. Always with a pool (except in Yellowstone, of course), which let the kids burn off energy—because they always have reserves, even after packed days!—and, let’s be honest, gave us a chance to relax. No Wi-Fi issues either; we all had plans with 25 GB of data (a big thanks to Gilles for the amazing deal at 0.99 €). It worked perfectly, even for texts and calls between phones—no extra charges.

Now, onto our route: as I mentioned, a classic Denver-Yellowstone-Denver loop. To avoid rushing through the parks or spending all our time on the road, we prioritized staying as close to them as possible, with at least two nights in each place. And I’ve got to say, it’s really nice to settle in, even if it’s just for two nights. It also helped us deal with the weather, which wasn’t always great during this trip. The trade-off? With vacation time being limited, some driving days ended up being long. We knew that going in, but since we kept a relaxed pace with no time constraints (don’t ask me for timings—I don’t keep track of the clock on vacation, except in the morning to get everyone up before noon!), we sometimes ended up with marathon days.

With that said, I’ll dive into the trip itself in the next post.

Our itinerary: Day 1: Frontier Days Cheyenne Day 2: Cheyenne + Guernsey Ruts + Fort Laramie Day 3: Scottsbluff NM + Carhenge Day 4: Badlands NP Day 5: Badlands NP + Stavkirke (Rapid City) + Fort Hays + Custer SP Day 6: Custer SP Day 7: Deadwood + Belle Fourche + Devils Tower Day 8: Medicine Wheel (Bighorn Mountains) + Bighorn Canyon Day 9: Cody Days 10 to 16: Yellowstone Day 17: Grand Teton Day 18: Flaming Gorge Day 19: Dinosaur NM + Fantasy Canyon Day 20: Dinosaur NM + Colorado NM Day 21: Black Canyon of the Gunnison Day 22: Hanging Lake + outlets at Silverthorne Day 23: Rocky Mountain NP Day 24: Denver

Day 0: Arrival in Denver went smoothly (flight with Lufthansa). When we got to the self-service kiosks, there was already a nice queue. An agent told us to go straight downstairs where the immigration officers were. Much fewer people, we only waited about a quarter of an hour before seeing the officer. A very friendly person with a little notebook of common phrases translated into several languages. He was thrilled to say them in French, which made him laugh a lot. As a result, we spent almost more time with him than in the queue. After collecting our luggage and going through customs by just handing in the form we filled out on the plane, we took the shuttle to Hertz.

I’ll go into a bit of detail about the car aspect since it’s a crucial part of the trip, especially given the mileage and time spent in it.

This was our first rental with Hertz. Thanks to great tips from the forum, we signed up for the loyalty program. When we arrived, our name was on a board with the parking spot number for our assigned car. We went to check out the vehicle that would be our companion for the next 24 days. We had booked a Cadillac Escalade at a great price (via hertz.be). Initially, we wanted a Suburban to easily fit our 6 bags/suitcases. The price difference (- $500) and the fact that the Escalade comes in a long configuration made us lean toward the Escalade. We thought that if that model wasn’t available, we could always switch to the Suburban category (a lower category). When we got to the car, it was a short model (well, everything’s relative!). No other Escalades in the parking lot. So we went to the counter: no long models available. We asked to be "downgraded" to a Suburban (there were several in the lot). The agent typed on her computer, said OK... with an extra charge of $1000!!! We explained that it was just a lower category and all, but no luck—$1000 more or nothing. The manager stood by this decision. Oh well, we kept the Escalade and had to make sure our 6 of us, the suitcase, and the 5 bags would fit. Since our hotel was right next door, we packed everything in and headed straight to the exit booth. The attendant checked our license, scanned the credit card, and gave us a receipt where we verified the final amount (slightly lower than our reservation). No offers for additional insurance. We pointed out some scratches on the car: she noted them on a document, asked where, and without checking, wrote "all over the body." At least we wouldn’t have to worry about that!

Ten minutes later, we were at the hotel. While the kids went for their first swim, we played "Tetris" to figure out the best way to pack the bags in the trunk. Here’s how it turned out—we stuck with this setup the whole trip, which made packing quick since each bag had its place.

As for the car itself, it worked out great: very comfortable to drive, good handling, powerful, and with a cooled storage space in the front (which came in handy since we didn’t have a real cooler). However, it had a noticeable fuel consumption (19L/100km on average) and was very uncomfortable for the kids sitting in the third row. Plus, the bench was split 2/3, with the last third for bag storage, which blocked their view on the right side. Luckily, we often stayed two days in one place, so we could explore with the car empty.

We still wondered if it would’ve been better to ensure we got a long model and booked a Suburban directly. In hindsight, we adults don’t regret our choice; the kids do, of course—they were the ones who suffered the most from the discomfort. Still, one positive aspect (for me) of the car’s "tightness": it forced us to pack our bags perfectly. Nothing out of place, nothing lying around.

Okay, that’s the car situation sorted—now we can finally dive into our trip!

Awesome, a new travel journal 🙂; even though we know the places we visited, it's always great to share experiences!

Hi there,

Thanks for starting this travel journal. Looking forward to the rest!

Best regards.

Hello, Thanks for following along on our adventures. Have a great weekend!

Hello,

Thanks for your interest. I hope you enjoy the rest. And here’s our first day.

Day 1: A day at Frontier Days in Cheyenne, where we booked rodeo tickets online. I won’t go over the different events that follow one another all afternoon—check out Chris’s (Maryelectra) very detailed post on the subject. We got seats in the BU block, first row, with a meal included (hamburger + fries + drink) and parking. The parking lot is at the I-25 exit, with an efficient shuttle system. We arrived at opening time, and there were plenty of spots available to park on the streets near the entrance. We had a great view of the events, and the food was average, but we expected that in this kind of place. Poor calf stopped abruptly in full sprint...

We visited the Indian village, where young kids could take part in creative workshops, and then we watched the dances. A Native American woman explained the different dances, but unfortunately, we didn’t understand much. The show was very colorful, though it was a shame some participants were chewing gum or wearing sunglasses. We had a really enjoyable day in a great atmosphere. It’s a wonderful dive into the world of Native Americans and cowboys—definitely worth it if you’re in the area.

Lodging is overpriced and gets booked up months in advance, so you really need to plan ahead to avoid ending up far away. We’re staying in an Airbnb: the Little Chicken Ranch, located 20 miles from Frontier Days. The welcome was very warm, with bottles of water, crackers, and cereal bars available. We had the entire basement to ourselves (with windows in the bedroom and living room) and a private bathroom. We could use the kitchen in the main house, and the owner even gave us eggs from her chicken coop. All that for 44 €—our cheapest and one of the best places we stayed on this trip. I highly recommend this Airbnb!

Hi Laurence, A trip that promises to be colorful🙂. The text in the first posts and their photos certainly are. Good luck with everything...

Hi Yves, Thanks for following along and for your encouragement. The rest will be just as colorful! Have a good evening,

Hello,

Day 2: back in Cheyenne to watch the parade. Chairs are set out along the sidewalk for public use. The procession is quite eclectic, with a fun, laid-back vibe and some surprising floats. We had a great time. After a quick tour of the town and a stop at "The Wrangler," the cowboy mecca, we chat with Morgan, Miss Rodeo 2018, who autographs her photo for us. Despite our detailed road book, we forgot to go see Big Boy, the largest steam locomotive. Was my husband distracted 😉?

We hit the road again, and our first stop is Guernsey Ruts. A small loop lets you see the ruts carved by pioneers' wagons in the sandstone. The site is small but worth a stop—the depth of the ruts gives you an idea of how many pioneers passed through here.

More from this day in the next post.

Our next stop will be Fort Laramie, a key stopover for pioneers following the Oregon Trail around the 1850s. Several important treaties with various Native American tribes were signed here. The fort was gradually abandoned starting in 1890. Free entry, and there’s documentation in French at the visitor center. It’s a really interesting place where we spend a long time before the storm rolling in fast forces us to leave.

View of the plains:

New guard post (prison):

The captain’s quarters:

The surgeon’s quarters: The store:

The cavalry barracks:

We stayed overnight in Gering at the Cobblestone Hotel: a good hotel with a full breakfast, pool, and a reasonable price (99 €).

Awesome, a new travel journal for our September 2019 destination! I’m excited to follow along with your adventures!!

Hello dear neighbor,

We’d be happy to make a little room in the car for you! Especially since we’re about to dive into the heart of the trip: the national parks. Wishing you a great prep for 2019—don’t hesitate if you have any questions.

Have a great weekend!

Hello,

During this loop, we chatted live with Françoise (Disneydiddl) and Nicolas (Sixiemesens), who were following roughly the same route as us, just a few days apart. It's great to swap impressions and great tips along the way. Thanks to both of them!

Day 3: Early start for Scotts Bluff NM, just 10 minutes from the hotel. We spotted some beautiful longhorn cattle—Texas Longhorns, I think.

We bought the $80 annual pass, which will open the doors to all national parks. Given the clouds in the distance and the forecast calling for rain, we took advantage of the relatively nice weather and headed straight up to admire the view from Saddle Rock. This time, we’ll stop by the Visitor Center afterward. It’s a sandstone and clay formation that stands out in the surrounding plains. It was a landmark for pioneers on the Oregon Trail. Here, they had already covered a third of the journey. After doing the two short trails (South and North Overlook), I hiked back down with the kids via the Saddle Rock Trail (1.6 miles), while my husband drove down. To avoid splitting up, you can take a shuttle that leaves from the VC and drops you off at the top of the hill. The first part offers some lovely viewpoints. After passing through the tunnel and following the cliffside, the path crosses the plain, which gets a bit monotonous. A very easy hike, all downhill. View from South Overlook: Saddle Rock Trail: The weather turned cloudy, and we arrived at the VC in a light drizzle. After visiting the VC—always so informative—and with a brief break in the clouds, we quickly walked a short stretch of the Oregon Trail, but the rain caught up with us fast! We hit the road and passed Chimney Rock, but since it was still raining, we didn’t stop and just took some photos from a distance. Our next stop was Carhenge, a replica of Stonehenge made with cars. No more rain, but the sky stayed pretty gray. Maybe that’s why we weren’t really impressed by Jim Reinders’ creation.

Our route took us to the entrance of Badlands NP. We drove through some beautiful plains and the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation, an area that seemed quite poor, with "villages" made up of old mobile homes and rusted pickups in front. A strange feeling... We barely saw any cars, just a few kids playing by the side of the road. We arrived in the mid-afternoon at White River KOA in Interior, where we spent two nights in a tipi. The weather was heavy and stormy, but the kids still went swimming. For the sunset over the Badlands, we’d just have to hope for better luck tomorrow! A big storm rolled in that evening, and it rained all night. Not a drop of water inside the tipi, despite my worries. The rustic tipi was really small for six of us, but we managed to fit everything inside. The campground is in a pretty setting but was infested with mosquitoes (by the White River). We got eaten alive the first night, but luckily, the repellent we bought the next day worked pretty well.

Day 4: The overcast sky didn’t exactly inspire an early start for Badlands National Park, just 10 minutes from the campsite. We stopped by the Visitor Center first. We picked up some brochures, and the kids—even the older ones—signed up for the Junior Ranger program. It’s a great program that not only helps them practice their English but is also really educational and often requires research in the exhibits or out in the field. The pages to complete vary by age. However, it easily takes 1–1.5 hours to finish, so keep that in mind if your time in the park is limited. You have to return it to the VC once it’s done. A ranger checks the answers, asks a few questions, and then solemnly presents the kids with a badge while having them repeat a pledge. The program is free except at Yellowstone (3 €).

We set off on the Saddle Pass Trail/Castle Trail/Medicine Root Trail loop, about 6.5 km in total. After a short but steep climb (Saddle Pass), we found ourselves on a plateau with prairie all around and the Badlands stretching out in every direction. Rock formations: It was an easy, pleasant hike with few people around (we only crossed paths with two couples). We came face to face with a doe that bolted away quickly. Strange that she didn’t hear us coming—our hikes are rarely quiet! Just a heads-up: there’s no shade, so it’s best to avoid this trail in very hot or sunny weather. We didn’t have that problem, though .

By late morning, as our hike wrapped up, the sky started to clear, bringing out much more vibrant colors.

Views from Saddle Pass:

Our second stop was the Fossil Exhibit Trail: a 500 m loop on boardwalks. It was pretty crowded, especially with people wandering off the boardwalks onto the rocks. We didn’t linger—it just wasn’t our thing. My only photo from there is this beautiful blue bird:

With the forecast promising sunshine in the mid-afternoon, we stopped at Big Foot Pass Overlook for a picnic before heading to Wall to check out the famous Wall Drug Store. Way more tourists here than in the Badlands! The main street is lined with souvenir shops featuring cute Western decorations. Worth a visit if you’ve got time to spare. Funny, I didn’t take any photos! Big Foot Pass Overlook:

Along the road:

More on the rest of the day below.

After picking up a few souvenirs, we head back under a finally clear sky into Badlands National Park via Sage Creek Road (unpaved but accessible to all vehicles). We’d barely entered the park when we came across our first bison. We stopped for a long photo session, snapping away from every angle. Just a few hundred meters later, we spotted prairie dogs. They’re really not shy—some were right by the road. Too cute! We stopped at Sage Creek Basin Overlook, which offered a stunning landscape. No sooner had we set off again when we saw a male pronghorn in the plains, and a little farther on, a herd of bighorn sheep. At one point, they all started running—what a sight! Magical.

We stopped at Yellow Mounds Overlook—another breathtaking view unfolded before us. The colors were gorgeous.

A bit farther along Badlands Loop Road, we came across a few more pronghorns.

Other viewpoints:

The scene wouldn’t have been complete without the deer we spotted near the park exit.

Between the stunning panoramic viewpoints and the wildlife, I can’t recommend this route enough! One of our favorite memories from the trip.

We’d planned to do the short hikes at Notch, Window, and Door Trail, but the sun was already setting. We’ll save those for tomorrow.

Hi there,

We were in the same situation as you—2 adults + 4 kids—and we also flew into Denver and took advantage of the Hertz Escalade deal. Since we were camping, we had all the gear too: cooler, tents, etc. We managed to get a long SUV, but we had to pay an extra fee... Still, it was cheaper overall than the Suburban, which was showing up as $1,500 more for the 23 days in the simulations! For peace of mind, we invested in a soft, waterproof roof bag that we had delivered to our arrival hotel via Amazon. It cost around $80, and we were able to bring it back neatly folded. Tents, sleeping bags, mattresses, jackets—everything fit inside. A great tip!

I’m still enjoying following your travel journal...

Vinciane

Hi Vinciane,

Thanks for following my travel journal. I thought short and long stays were in the same category, so the same price. A long stay would’ve worked much better for us. I wasn’t familiar with Roffbags. They do seem really handy. I’ll keep this idea in mind for our next trip.

Have a great day

J5: No rain last night, but a very overcast sky this morning. We still did the three short hikes at Notch, Window, and Door Trail. The gray sky really didn’t do justice to the rock formations. On the road, we spotted a few pronghorns, including one perched on a rocky outcrop. My photo didn’t turn out—some days just don’t go your way! We stopped at Big Badlands Overlook, which offers a stunning panorama. We had planned to take Route 44 to Rapid City and visit Sheep Mountain Table, but given the weather, we took the quickest route via I-90 instead. What can I say about Badlands NM other than we loved it! Even though the weather wasn’t on our side, we found the park incredibly photogenic and saw plenty of wildlife. It’s often visited as part of a round trip from the Custer area, but it really deserves a longer visit. It’s one of our top highlights of the trip.

Our first stop in Rapid City was to visit a stave church (stavkirke) built by Norwegian immigrants, a replica of the one in Borgund, Norway. It’s a beautiful structure that brought back great memories of that amazing country. Our next stop was Fort Hays, featuring the sets from the movie *Dances with Wolves*. It felt a bit like a hodgepodge, so we didn’t stay long. We headed to the Visitor Center at Custer SP. Entry costs $20 for 7 days, and the national parks pass isn’t accepted. The clouds rolled back in, and the rain followed soon after. We still set out to drive the Wildlife Loop Road. The bison herd was at the start of the loop, unfazed by the rain. Lots of cars stopped to watch them before turning back. We continued our drive, hoping to see the burros. We spotted them in the distance, sheltering under a grove of trees. A young girl tried in vain to lure them with food, but they preferred to stay "dry." The rain quickly turned into a storm. Too bad—this road is lovely, and I’d scoped out some trails to explore further, but they weren’t doable in this weather. We pulled over in a turnout to wait out the worst of the storm, and a deer watched us the whole time.

Before heading to our lodging for the night, we made a quick photo stop at the Crazy Horse Monument, though we didn’t visit it. We spent the night at Mount Rushmore KOA at Palmer Gulch Resort (Hill City). It’s a large, well-equipped campground with a pool, hot tub, water slide, equestrian center, restaurant, and laundry. Our cabin was in a wooded area, nice and quiet. At all the KOAs except the first one, we booked a cabin for 6 without bathrooms. The restrooms were always nearby and well-maintained. The sites had a picnic table and a fire pit. Prices ranged from 75 to 90 € per night, depending on the campground. KOAs are often criticized for being near roads, which is usually true, but we weren’t bothered by traffic noise (though it might be different for tent campers). With kids, this type of accommodation is great—there’s a pool, games, they can run around outside, and a good campfire is always a nice way to end the day. Don’t forget your sleeping bag, as linens aren’t included (though they can usually be rented).

Day 6: finally a beautiful blue sky! We set off for Mount Rushmore, located very close to the campsite. Along the way, we spot a mountain goat drinking by the rocks. Horse Thief Lake: The parking costs $10 and is valid for 1 year. Entry to the site is free. The Presidential Trail loop is partly closed, and the Sculptor's Studio is inaccessible. There aren’t many people around at this early hour, so we do a round trip that brings us closer to the sculpted heads (George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt, and Abraham Lincoln). The site turns out to be less impressive than I expected. I even found the place quite cold. That said, it *is* a memorial—we shouldn’t forget that. We plan to come back this evening for the site’s illumination ceremony. Maybe our feelings will be different then... Avenue of Flags: We head back to Custer State Park via Iron Mountain Road. A really beautiful route with "pigtail" bridges (a looped bridge system that gains altitude over a very short distance) and narrow tunnels. We spot a few deer. Gorgeous views of the Black Hills from the overlooks, where the heads are still clearly visible. A very pleasant, wooded road. We continue along the Needles Highway. The landscape is different here—tunnels are even narrower, and the car barely fits. Fortunately, there aren’t too many people, so no waiting to pass through the tunnels. Drivers are courteous, which is a nice change! There are also overlooks where you can admire the scenery, including granite needles. After reading some travel journals, we’d braced ourselves for lots of motorcycles, since the Sturgis rally starts in a few days. We *did* see plenty of Harleys, but we were still able to stop at the overlooks without any issues.

We have a picnic by Sylvan Lake before walking around it. A nice, easy stroll (1 km loop). There are a lot more people in this area. In the late afternoon, we go horseback riding with the campsite’s equestrian center (1.5 hours, $50 per person). There are just the six of us with the guide. The whole ride is at a walk, which suits my husband and me just fine—neither of us has ever ridden before. The kids, who have some experience, would’ve preferred a faster pace. The scenery is pretty, mostly forests and meadows with views of the surrounding mountains. We spot two deer, as well as a doe and her fawn. A peaceful, quiet moment—we really enjoyed this little break. After a pool break and despite a late dinner, we decide to go see Mount Rushmore illuminated. We arrive at the end of the ceremony. The heads light up. Disappointment—the lighting is all white, almost pale. We probably should’ve watched the whole ceremony to feel the emotion of the moment. No matter what, we just didn’t connect with this place. It happens! Sorry for the photo quality—it’s still way better in person!

Day 7: A big day of driving today with several stops planned. We hit the road pretty early—well, once everyone was finally ready—and took a scenic route toward Deadwood, a town illegally founded in 1876 during the gold rush, where legendary figures of the Old West like Calamity Jane and Wild Bill Hickok lived and are now buried. After visiting the well-documented visitor center, we strolled down Main Street. There were quite a few Harleys parked along the sidewalks, which added a special vibe to the street’s atmosphere. We’d planned a short stop since the day was packed and reviews of the town hadn’t exactly blown us away. Our main point of interest was visiting the mine. The round trip down this street—though not long—ended up taking quite a bit of time. We loved the "Old West" atmosphere. We stopped in a bunch of shops, from the photographer’s studio to the "saloons," where you can often go in to take photos even if you’re not ordering anything (donations welcome). So, much later than planned, we headed to the Broken Boot Gold Mine on the outskirts of town. The visit was quick but interesting, with a guide who spoke slowly so everyone could understand—most of the visitors weren’t English speakers. We got back on the road toward the Geographic Center of the U.S., which was on our way in Belle Fourche. After a few miles, we suddenly realized we’d forgotten to visit Mount Moriah Cemetery in Deadwood, where Calamity Jane and Wild Bill Hickok are buried—a stop that was actually well-rated in our roadbook. Turning back would’ve cost us too much time, so we had to skip it…

The Geographic Center of the U.S. itself wasn’t all that exciting, but the small visitor center had an interesting exhibit on life in the West and how it’s evolved since the gold rush. Right next door, the first log cabin built in the area in 1876—called the Buckskin Johnny Cabin—has been restored and furnished to look like it did back then. The visit is free, but donations are welcome to help preserve the heritage. Another stop that took longer than planned! It’s going to be tough to see everything today!!! On the way to Devils Tower, we made a quick stop in Hulett, a tiny village that’s stayed true to its roots. And then we arrived at Devils Tower, which you can see from far away in the surrounding countryside, rising 386 meters above the Belle Fourche River. A sacred site for over 20 Native American tribes, it was designated the first U.S. national monument by President Theodore Roosevelt. After the entrance booth where we showed our America the Beautiful Pass (required), we parked without waiting at the visitor center lot. With time running short, we decided to do the short 2 km loop, the Tower Trail. We started it on the left side. The walk was super easy and offered great views of Devils Tower and the surrounding countryside. We spotted a deer, then a whole family of them. We watched some climbers scaling the tower—it’s such a surprising geological wonder. A must-see. On our way out, about ten deer were calmly grazing among the prairie dogs in Prairie Dog Town. It was already late when we got back on the road for our overnight stop in Buffalo—210 km away! We ended up arriving *very* late at the Super 8. The staff was friendly, and we had a big room for six, though the sofa bed was terrible. Three of us ended up sleeping in the two double beds. Breakfast was pretty minimal, but for one night and at the price we paid (70 €), we’re not complaining...

Recap of the day: some great discoveries and really different places, but way too much packed into one day. And we even missed a stop in the morning!!! Tomorrow’s looking just as long—hopefully, we’ll manage the timing better.