Our family trip from Denver to Yellowstone – a recap

Hi there,

I’m diving into a recap of our loop—pretty classic, really—Denver-Yellowstone-Denver this past summer, from July 24 to August 17. Given the sheer number of trip reports already out there (or in the works), and since I don’t have the writing chops or the photography skills of many of you, I’ll keep it practical—well, I’ll try, at least—to share our take on some of the less-visited parks and spots.

First off, a huge thank you to everyone whose trip reports, blogs, websites, comments, and more helped us put together this itinerary. Looking back, it could’ve been even better optimized: a few disappointments when we missed out on some great discoveries, often because we were short on time. Plenty of reasons to come back to the area!

We’re traveling with our four (almost) teens—18, 16, 14, and nearly 12 years old. To keep the trip enjoyable for everyone, we had to make compromises on both sides: cutting a visit short to spend more time swimming, waking up at dawn, and so on. But logistics also played a big role—things like laundry, grocery shopping, and keeping luggage organized could’ve quickly become time-consuming without a little planning. And honestly, I think we visited every Walmart along the way! Blame it on the lack of fridges in some accommodations and, more importantly, the *very* limited space in the car, which made it impossible to bring a proper cooler. I’ll come back to the car saga later.

For accommodations, this year we alternated between basic cabins in KOA campgrounds and Yellowstone (when staying more than one night in the same place) and hotels. Always with a pool (except in Yellowstone, of course), which let the kids burn off energy—because they always have reserves, even after packed days!—and, let’s be honest, gave us a chance to relax. No Wi-Fi issues either; we all had plans with 25 GB of data (a big thanks to Gilles for the amazing deal at 0.99 €). It worked perfectly, even for texts and calls between phones—no extra charges.

Now, onto our route: as I mentioned, a classic Denver-Yellowstone-Denver loop. To avoid rushing through the parks or spending all our time on the road, we prioritized staying as close to them as possible, with at least two nights in each place. And I’ve got to say, it’s really nice to settle in, even if it’s just for two nights. It also helped us deal with the weather, which wasn’t always great during this trip. The trade-off? With vacation time being limited, some driving days ended up being long. We knew that going in, but since we kept a relaxed pace with no time constraints (don’t ask me for timings—I don’t keep track of the clock on vacation, except in the morning to get everyone up before noon!), we sometimes ended up with marathon days.

With that said, I’ll dive into the trip itself in the next post.

Our itinerary: Day 1: Frontier Days Cheyenne Day 2: Cheyenne + Guernsey Ruts + Fort Laramie Day 3: Scottsbluff NM + Carhenge Day 4: Badlands NP Day 5: Badlands NP + Stavkirke (Rapid City) + Fort Hays + Custer SP Day 6: Custer SP Day 7: Deadwood + Belle Fourche + Devils Tower Day 8: Medicine Wheel (Bighorn Mountains) + Bighorn Canyon Day 9: Cody Days 10 to 16: Yellowstone Day 17: Grand Teton Day 18: Flaming Gorge Day 19: Dinosaur NM + Fantasy Canyon Day 20: Dinosaur NM + Colorado NM Day 21: Black Canyon of the Gunnison Day 22: Hanging Lake + outlets at Silverthorne Day 23: Rocky Mountain NP Day 24: Denver

Day 0: Arrival in Denver went smoothly (flight with Lufthansa). When we got to the self-service kiosks, there was already a nice queue. An agent told us to go straight downstairs where the immigration officers were. Much fewer people, we only waited about a quarter of an hour before seeing the officer. A very friendly person with a little notebook of common phrases translated into several languages. He was thrilled to say them in French, which made him laugh a lot. As a result, we spent almost more time with him than in the queue. After collecting our luggage and going through customs by just handing in the form we filled out on the plane, we took the shuttle to Hertz.

I’ll go into a bit of detail about the car aspect since it’s a crucial part of the trip, especially given the mileage and time spent in it.

This was our first rental with Hertz. Thanks to great tips from the forum, we signed up for the loyalty program. When we arrived, our name was on a board with the parking spot number for our assigned car. We went to check out the vehicle that would be our companion for the next 24 days. We had booked a Cadillac Escalade at a great price (via hertz.be). Initially, we wanted a Suburban to easily fit our 6 bags/suitcases. The price difference (- $500) and the fact that the Escalade comes in a long configuration made us lean toward the Escalade. We thought that if that model wasn’t available, we could always switch to the Suburban category (a lower category). When we got to the car, it was a short model (well, everything’s relative!). No other Escalades in the parking lot. So we went to the counter: no long models available. We asked to be "downgraded" to a Suburban (there were several in the lot). The agent typed on her computer, said OK... with an extra charge of $1000!!! We explained that it was just a lower category and all, but no luck—$1000 more or nothing. The manager stood by this decision. Oh well, we kept the Escalade and had to make sure our 6 of us, the suitcase, and the 5 bags would fit. Since our hotel was right next door, we packed everything in and headed straight to the exit booth. The attendant checked our license, scanned the credit card, and gave us a receipt where we verified the final amount (slightly lower than our reservation). No offers for additional insurance. We pointed out some scratches on the car: she noted them on a document, asked where, and without checking, wrote "all over the body." At least we wouldn’t have to worry about that!

Ten minutes later, we were at the hotel. While the kids went for their first swim, we played "Tetris" to figure out the best way to pack the bags in the trunk. Here’s how it turned out—we stuck with this setup the whole trip, which made packing quick since each bag had its place.

As for the car itself, it worked out great: very comfortable to drive, good handling, powerful, and with a cooled storage space in the front (which came in handy since we didn’t have a real cooler). However, it had a noticeable fuel consumption (19L/100km on average) and was very uncomfortable for the kids sitting in the third row. Plus, the bench was split 2/3, with the last third for bag storage, which blocked their view on the right side. Luckily, we often stayed two days in one place, so we could explore with the car empty.

We still wondered if it would’ve been better to ensure we got a long model and booked a Suburban directly. In hindsight, we adults don’t regret our choice; the kids do, of course—they were the ones who suffered the most from the discomfort. Still, one positive aspect (for me) of the car’s "tightness": it forced us to pack our bags perfectly. Nothing out of place, nothing lying around.

Okay, that’s the car situation sorted—now we can finally dive into our trip!

Awesome, a new travel journal 🙂; even though we know the places we visited, it's always great to share experiences!

Hi there,

Thanks for starting this travel journal. Looking forward to the rest!

Best regards.

Hello, Thanks for following along on our adventures. Have a great weekend!

Hello,

Thanks for your interest. I hope you enjoy the rest. And here’s our first day.

Day 1: A day at Frontier Days in Cheyenne, where we booked rodeo tickets online. I won’t go over the different events that follow one another all afternoon—check out Chris’s (Maryelectra) very detailed post on the subject. We got seats in the BU block, first row, with a meal included (hamburger + fries + drink) and parking. The parking lot is at the I-25 exit, with an efficient shuttle system. We arrived at opening time, and there were plenty of spots available to park on the streets near the entrance. We had a great view of the events, and the food was average, but we expected that in this kind of place. Poor calf stopped abruptly in full sprint...

We visited the Indian village, where young kids could take part in creative workshops, and then we watched the dances. A Native American woman explained the different dances, but unfortunately, we didn’t understand much. The show was very colorful, though it was a shame some participants were chewing gum or wearing sunglasses. We had a really enjoyable day in a great atmosphere. It’s a wonderful dive into the world of Native Americans and cowboys—definitely worth it if you’re in the area.

Lodging is overpriced and gets booked up months in advance, so you really need to plan ahead to avoid ending up far away. We’re staying in an Airbnb: the Little Chicken Ranch, located 20 miles from Frontier Days. The welcome was very warm, with bottles of water, crackers, and cereal bars available. We had the entire basement to ourselves (with windows in the bedroom and living room) and a private bathroom. We could use the kitchen in the main house, and the owner even gave us eggs from her chicken coop. All that for 44 €—our cheapest and one of the best places we stayed on this trip. I highly recommend this Airbnb!

Hi Laurence, A trip that promises to be colorful🙂. The text in the first posts and their photos certainly are. Good luck with everything...

Hi Yves, Thanks for following along and for your encouragement. The rest will be just as colorful! Have a good evening,

Hello,

Day 2: back in Cheyenne to watch the parade. Chairs are set out along the sidewalk for public use. The procession is quite eclectic, with a fun, laid-back vibe and some surprising floats. We had a great time. After a quick tour of the town and a stop at "The Wrangler," the cowboy mecca, we chat with Morgan, Miss Rodeo 2018, who autographs her photo for us. Despite our detailed road book, we forgot to go see Big Boy, the largest steam locomotive. Was my husband distracted 😉?

We hit the road again, and our first stop is Guernsey Ruts. A small loop lets you see the ruts carved by pioneers' wagons in the sandstone. The site is small but worth a stop—the depth of the ruts gives you an idea of how many pioneers passed through here.

More from this day in the next post.

Our next stop will be Fort Laramie, a key stopover for pioneers following the Oregon Trail around the 1850s. Several important treaties with various Native American tribes were signed here. The fort was gradually abandoned starting in 1890. Free entry, and there’s documentation in French at the visitor center. It’s a really interesting place where we spend a long time before the storm rolling in fast forces us to leave.

View of the plains:

New guard post (prison):

The captain’s quarters:

The surgeon’s quarters: The store:

The cavalry barracks:

We stayed overnight in Gering at the Cobblestone Hotel: a good hotel with a full breakfast, pool, and a reasonable price (99 €).

Awesome, a new travel journal for our September 2019 destination! I’m excited to follow along with your adventures!!

Hello dear neighbor,

We’d be happy to make a little room in the car for you! Especially since we’re about to dive into the heart of the trip: the national parks. Wishing you a great prep for 2019—don’t hesitate if you have any questions.

Have a great weekend!

Hello,

During this loop, we chatted live with Françoise (Disneydiddl) and Nicolas (Sixiemesens), who were following roughly the same route as us, just a few days apart. It's great to swap impressions and great tips along the way. Thanks to both of them!

Day 3: Early start for Scotts Bluff NM, just 10 minutes from the hotel. We spotted some beautiful longhorn cattle—Texas Longhorns, I think.

We bought the $80 annual pass, which will open the doors to all national parks. Given the clouds in the distance and the forecast calling for rain, we took advantage of the relatively nice weather and headed straight up to admire the view from Saddle Rock. This time, we’ll stop by the Visitor Center afterward. It’s a sandstone and clay formation that stands out in the surrounding plains. It was a landmark for pioneers on the Oregon Trail. Here, they had already covered a third of the journey. After doing the two short trails (South and North Overlook), I hiked back down with the kids via the Saddle Rock Trail (1.6 miles), while my husband drove down. To avoid splitting up, you can take a shuttle that leaves from the VC and drops you off at the top of the hill. The first part offers some lovely viewpoints. After passing through the tunnel and following the cliffside, the path crosses the plain, which gets a bit monotonous. A very easy hike, all downhill. View from South Overlook: Saddle Rock Trail: The weather turned cloudy, and we arrived at the VC in a light drizzle. After visiting the VC—always so informative—and with a brief break in the clouds, we quickly walked a short stretch of the Oregon Trail, but the rain caught up with us fast! We hit the road and passed Chimney Rock, but since it was still raining, we didn’t stop and just took some photos from a distance. Our next stop was Carhenge, a replica of Stonehenge made with cars. No more rain, but the sky stayed pretty gray. Maybe that’s why we weren’t really impressed by Jim Reinders’ creation.

Our route took us to the entrance of Badlands NP. We drove through some beautiful plains and the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation, an area that seemed quite poor, with "villages" made up of old mobile homes and rusted pickups in front. A strange feeling... We barely saw any cars, just a few kids playing by the side of the road. We arrived in the mid-afternoon at White River KOA in Interior, where we spent two nights in a tipi. The weather was heavy and stormy, but the kids still went swimming. For the sunset over the Badlands, we’d just have to hope for better luck tomorrow! A big storm rolled in that evening, and it rained all night. Not a drop of water inside the tipi, despite my worries. The rustic tipi was really small for six of us, but we managed to fit everything inside. The campground is in a pretty setting but was infested with mosquitoes (by the White River). We got eaten alive the first night, but luckily, the repellent we bought the next day worked pretty well.

Day 4: The overcast sky didn’t exactly inspire an early start for Badlands National Park, just 10 minutes from the campsite. We stopped by the Visitor Center first. We picked up some brochures, and the kids—even the older ones—signed up for the Junior Ranger program. It’s a great program that not only helps them practice their English but is also really educational and often requires research in the exhibits or out in the field. The pages to complete vary by age. However, it easily takes 1–1.5 hours to finish, so keep that in mind if your time in the park is limited. You have to return it to the VC once it’s done. A ranger checks the answers, asks a few questions, and then solemnly presents the kids with a badge while having them repeat a pledge. The program is free except at Yellowstone (3 €).

We set off on the Saddle Pass Trail/Castle Trail/Medicine Root Trail loop, about 6.5 km in total. After a short but steep climb (Saddle Pass), we found ourselves on a plateau with prairie all around and the Badlands stretching out in every direction. Rock formations: It was an easy, pleasant hike with few people around (we only crossed paths with two couples). We came face to face with a doe that bolted away quickly. Strange that she didn’t hear us coming—our hikes are rarely quiet! Just a heads-up: there’s no shade, so it’s best to avoid this trail in very hot or sunny weather. We didn’t have that problem, though .

By late morning, as our hike wrapped up, the sky started to clear, bringing out much more vibrant colors.

Views from Saddle Pass:

Our second stop was the Fossil Exhibit Trail: a 500 m loop on boardwalks. It was pretty crowded, especially with people wandering off the boardwalks onto the rocks. We didn’t linger—it just wasn’t our thing. My only photo from there is this beautiful blue bird:

With the forecast promising sunshine in the mid-afternoon, we stopped at Big Foot Pass Overlook for a picnic before heading to Wall to check out the famous Wall Drug Store. Way more tourists here than in the Badlands! The main street is lined with souvenir shops featuring cute Western decorations. Worth a visit if you’ve got time to spare. Funny, I didn’t take any photos! Big Foot Pass Overlook:

Along the road:

More on the rest of the day below.

After picking up a few souvenirs, we head back under a finally clear sky into Badlands National Park via Sage Creek Road (unpaved but accessible to all vehicles). We’d barely entered the park when we came across our first bison. We stopped for a long photo session, snapping away from every angle. Just a few hundred meters later, we spotted prairie dogs. They’re really not shy—some were right by the road. Too cute! We stopped at Sage Creek Basin Overlook, which offered a stunning landscape. No sooner had we set off again when we saw a male pronghorn in the plains, and a little farther on, a herd of bighorn sheep. At one point, they all started running—what a sight! Magical.

We stopped at Yellow Mounds Overlook—another breathtaking view unfolded before us. The colors were gorgeous.

A bit farther along Badlands Loop Road, we came across a few more pronghorns.

Other viewpoints:

The scene wouldn’t have been complete without the deer we spotted near the park exit.

Between the stunning panoramic viewpoints and the wildlife, I can’t recommend this route enough! One of our favorite memories from the trip.

We’d planned to do the short hikes at Notch, Window, and Door Trail, but the sun was already setting. We’ll save those for tomorrow.

Hi there,

We were in the same situation as you—2 adults + 4 kids—and we also flew into Denver and took advantage of the Hertz Escalade deal. Since we were camping, we had all the gear too: cooler, tents, etc. We managed to get a long SUV, but we had to pay an extra fee... Still, it was cheaper overall than the Suburban, which was showing up as $1,500 more for the 23 days in the simulations! For peace of mind, we invested in a soft, waterproof roof bag that we had delivered to our arrival hotel via Amazon. It cost around $80, and we were able to bring it back neatly folded. Tents, sleeping bags, mattresses, jackets—everything fit inside. A great tip!

I’m still enjoying following your travel journal...

Vinciane

Hi Vinciane,

Thanks for following my travel journal. I thought short and long stays were in the same category, so the same price. A long stay would’ve worked much better for us. I wasn’t familiar with Roffbags. They do seem really handy. I’ll keep this idea in mind for our next trip.

Have a great day

J5: No rain last night, but a very overcast sky this morning. We still did the three short hikes at Notch, Window, and Door Trail. The gray sky really didn’t do justice to the rock formations. On the road, we spotted a few pronghorns, including one perched on a rocky outcrop. My photo didn’t turn out—some days just don’t go your way! We stopped at Big Badlands Overlook, which offers a stunning panorama. We had planned to take Route 44 to Rapid City and visit Sheep Mountain Table, but given the weather, we took the quickest route via I-90 instead. What can I say about Badlands NM other than we loved it! Even though the weather wasn’t on our side, we found the park incredibly photogenic and saw plenty of wildlife. It’s often visited as part of a round trip from the Custer area, but it really deserves a longer visit. It’s one of our top highlights of the trip.

Our first stop in Rapid City was to visit a stave church (stavkirke) built by Norwegian immigrants, a replica of the one in Borgund, Norway. It’s a beautiful structure that brought back great memories of that amazing country. Our next stop was Fort Hays, featuring the sets from the movie *Dances with Wolves*. It felt a bit like a hodgepodge, so we didn’t stay long. We headed to the Visitor Center at Custer SP. Entry costs $20 for 7 days, and the national parks pass isn’t accepted. The clouds rolled back in, and the rain followed soon after. We still set out to drive the Wildlife Loop Road. The bison herd was at the start of the loop, unfazed by the rain. Lots of cars stopped to watch them before turning back. We continued our drive, hoping to see the burros. We spotted them in the distance, sheltering under a grove of trees. A young girl tried in vain to lure them with food, but they preferred to stay "dry." The rain quickly turned into a storm. Too bad—this road is lovely, and I’d scoped out some trails to explore further, but they weren’t doable in this weather. We pulled over in a turnout to wait out the worst of the storm, and a deer watched us the whole time.

Before heading to our lodging for the night, we made a quick photo stop at the Crazy Horse Monument, though we didn’t visit it. We spent the night at Mount Rushmore KOA at Palmer Gulch Resort (Hill City). It’s a large, well-equipped campground with a pool, hot tub, water slide, equestrian center, restaurant, and laundry. Our cabin was in a wooded area, nice and quiet. At all the KOAs except the first one, we booked a cabin for 6 without bathrooms. The restrooms were always nearby and well-maintained. The sites had a picnic table and a fire pit. Prices ranged from 75 to 90 € per night, depending on the campground. KOAs are often criticized for being near roads, which is usually true, but we weren’t bothered by traffic noise (though it might be different for tent campers). With kids, this type of accommodation is great—there’s a pool, games, they can run around outside, and a good campfire is always a nice way to end the day. Don’t forget your sleeping bag, as linens aren’t included (though they can usually be rented).

Day 6: finally a beautiful blue sky! We set off for Mount Rushmore, located very close to the campsite. Along the way, we spot a mountain goat drinking by the rocks. Horse Thief Lake: The parking costs $10 and is valid for 1 year. Entry to the site is free. The Presidential Trail loop is partly closed, and the Sculptor's Studio is inaccessible. There aren’t many people around at this early hour, so we do a round trip that brings us closer to the sculpted heads (George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt, and Abraham Lincoln). The site turns out to be less impressive than I expected. I even found the place quite cold. That said, it *is* a memorial—we shouldn’t forget that. We plan to come back this evening for the site’s illumination ceremony. Maybe our feelings will be different then... Avenue of Flags: We head back to Custer State Park via Iron Mountain Road. A really beautiful route with "pigtail" bridges (a looped bridge system that gains altitude over a very short distance) and narrow tunnels. We spot a few deer. Gorgeous views of the Black Hills from the overlooks, where the heads are still clearly visible. A very pleasant, wooded road. We continue along the Needles Highway. The landscape is different here—tunnels are even narrower, and the car barely fits. Fortunately, there aren’t too many people, so no waiting to pass through the tunnels. Drivers are courteous, which is a nice change! There are also overlooks where you can admire the scenery, including granite needles. After reading some travel journals, we’d braced ourselves for lots of motorcycles, since the Sturgis rally starts in a few days. We *did* see plenty of Harleys, but we were still able to stop at the overlooks without any issues.

We have a picnic by Sylvan Lake before walking around it. A nice, easy stroll (1 km loop). There are a lot more people in this area. In the late afternoon, we go horseback riding with the campsite’s equestrian center (1.5 hours, $50 per person). There are just the six of us with the guide. The whole ride is at a walk, which suits my husband and me just fine—neither of us has ever ridden before. The kids, who have some experience, would’ve preferred a faster pace. The scenery is pretty, mostly forests and meadows with views of the surrounding mountains. We spot two deer, as well as a doe and her fawn. A peaceful, quiet moment—we really enjoyed this little break. After a pool break and despite a late dinner, we decide to go see Mount Rushmore illuminated. We arrive at the end of the ceremony. The heads light up. Disappointment—the lighting is all white, almost pale. We probably should’ve watched the whole ceremony to feel the emotion of the moment. No matter what, we just didn’t connect with this place. It happens! Sorry for the photo quality—it’s still way better in person!

Day 7: A big day of driving today with several stops planned. We hit the road pretty early—well, once everyone was finally ready—and took a scenic route toward Deadwood, a town illegally founded in 1876 during the gold rush, where legendary figures of the Old West like Calamity Jane and Wild Bill Hickok lived and are now buried. After visiting the well-documented visitor center, we strolled down Main Street. There were quite a few Harleys parked along the sidewalks, which added a special vibe to the street’s atmosphere. We’d planned a short stop since the day was packed and reviews of the town hadn’t exactly blown us away. Our main point of interest was visiting the mine. The round trip down this street—though not long—ended up taking quite a bit of time. We loved the "Old West" atmosphere. We stopped in a bunch of shops, from the photographer’s studio to the "saloons," where you can often go in to take photos even if you’re not ordering anything (donations welcome). So, much later than planned, we headed to the Broken Boot Gold Mine on the outskirts of town. The visit was quick but interesting, with a guide who spoke slowly so everyone could understand—most of the visitors weren’t English speakers. We got back on the road toward the Geographic Center of the U.S., which was on our way in Belle Fourche. After a few miles, we suddenly realized we’d forgotten to visit Mount Moriah Cemetery in Deadwood, where Calamity Jane and Wild Bill Hickok are buried—a stop that was actually well-rated in our roadbook. Turning back would’ve cost us too much time, so we had to skip it…

The Geographic Center of the U.S. itself wasn’t all that exciting, but the small visitor center had an interesting exhibit on life in the West and how it’s evolved since the gold rush. Right next door, the first log cabin built in the area in 1876—called the Buckskin Johnny Cabin—has been restored and furnished to look like it did back then. The visit is free, but donations are welcome to help preserve the heritage. Another stop that took longer than planned! It’s going to be tough to see everything today!!! On the way to Devils Tower, we made a quick stop in Hulett, a tiny village that’s stayed true to its roots. And then we arrived at Devils Tower, which you can see from far away in the surrounding countryside, rising 386 meters above the Belle Fourche River. A sacred site for over 20 Native American tribes, it was designated the first U.S. national monument by President Theodore Roosevelt. After the entrance booth where we showed our America the Beautiful Pass (required), we parked without waiting at the visitor center lot. With time running short, we decided to do the short 2 km loop, the Tower Trail. We started it on the left side. The walk was super easy and offered great views of Devils Tower and the surrounding countryside. We spotted a deer, then a whole family of them. We watched some climbers scaling the tower—it’s such a surprising geological wonder. A must-see. On our way out, about ten deer were calmly grazing among the prairie dogs in Prairie Dog Town. It was already late when we got back on the road for our overnight stop in Buffalo—210 km away! We ended up arriving *very* late at the Super 8. The staff was friendly, and we had a big room for six, though the sofa bed was terrible. Three of us ended up sleeping in the two double beds. Breakfast was pretty minimal, but for one night and at the price we paid (70 €), we’re not complaining...

Recap of the day: some great discoveries and really different places, but way too much packed into one day. And we even missed a stop in the morning!!! Tomorrow’s looking just as long—hopefully, we’ll manage the timing better.

Our next stop will be Fort Laramie, a key stopover for pioneers following the Oregon Trail around the 1850s. Several important treaties with various Native American tribes were signed here. The fort was gradually abandoned starting in 1890. Free entry, documentation in French available at the visitor center. A really interesting place where we spent a long time before the storm rolling in fast made us leave.

View of the plains:

New guard post (prison):

The captain’s quarters:

The surgeon’s quarters: The store:

The cavalry barracks:

Night in Gering at the Cobblestone Hotel: a good hotel with a full breakfast, pool, and reasonable rates (99 €).

We really enjoyed Fort Laramie—such an interesting visit! Thanks for this amazing travel journal!

Hi Monique,

Thanks for your message. We really enjoyed this visit.

Day 8: another long day of driving (230 miles planned; we did 250 miles yesterday). After our daily stop for supplies at the Walmart in Sheridan, we take scenic route A14 through Bighorn National Forest. The landscapes are stunning. There are still patches of snow here and there.

We stop at Medicine Wheel. At nearly 10,000 feet, it’s a sacred ceremonial site for Native Americans and is still in use today. The site is 79 feet in diameter and consists of 28 spokes. A trail, which offers beautiful viewpoints despite the mist, leads to the site from the parking lot. We spot several deer. Don’t forget that the site is at nearly 10,000 feet, which can make walking a bit more challenging. The circle must be walked clockwise. Many offerings are left inside, and pieces of fabric are tied around. While not overwhelming, this site leaves an impression and has a certain vibe—probably because we know it’s a ceremonial place.

The road remains just as beautiful, with pelicans swimming peacefully on Bighorn Lake.

After stopping at the Visitor Center, we head to explore Bighorn Canyon. The sky has clouded over a bit—too bad. We spot a bighorn sheep mom with her baby by the roadside. It’s adorable. Stop at Devil Canyon Overlook: amazing! We continue driving, hoping to see wild horses. We come across a herd of bighorn sheep, but no horses in sight. We’re pretty disappointed. We head back the other way and do the State Line Trail. A very easy 1.2-mile round-trip hike that offers another view of the canyon.

We leave the canyon feeling pretty bummed about not seeing wild horses—it definitely deserves a longer visit. That would’ve given us time to do other short trails and check out the arch, which I only found out about after our visit!

We hit the road again for a two-night stay at the KOA in Cody: a nice campground, well-equipped, with free pancakes in the morning.

Hello, glad you enjoyed the Frontier Days and SD. See you soon!

Hi Laurence,

Congrats on your super detailed travel journal, especially the timing for visits—it’s always tricky to get a feel for that. Sometimes a simple place touches us more than expected, and we end up spending extra time there, which is totally fine!

We’ll be doing part of your itinerary in 2019, and you’ve got us dreaming!

Good luck with the rest!

Cyril

Hi Chris, All your detailed posts on the forum really helped us prepare for our time in SD, and we’re so grateful. It’s a beautiful state. Have a great Sunday,

Hi Cyril,

Thanks for your feedback. We try to plan visit times to estimate how long our days will be, but in reality, we’re often way off! It’s really nice to be able to take our time when, as you said, we’re struck by a place that initially seemed ordinary. That’s why we try to keep our stops not too long, but it’s not always easy. We’ll see at the end of our trip—we were a bit too ambitious!

Day 9: Rest day in Cody. Since the group wasn’t motivated to visit the Buffalo Bill Historical Center, which houses 5 museums, we had a relaxed morning with some sleeping in, swimming, soccer⚽, and chores/errands for others! We left in the early afternoon for a rafting trip with Wyoming River Trip. We chose the longest route, "Red Rock Canyon and Lower," which is 12 miles for $48 pp. Most of the rapids are in the first section. The scenery was beautiful, especially the Red Rock Canyon. We saw several deer, great blue herons, and a pair of owls (not easy to spot in the last photo, center next to the bushes). There were quite a few pretty intense rapids, and the guide had the youngest kids lie down on the side—they got soaked from head to toe! We all ended up pretty wet. The rafting trip was a lot of fun, and we really enjoyed it. The guide gave us lots of explanations about the rocks, landscapes, and animals, but we had a hard time understanding everything because of his strong accent.

After changing, we explored Cody while waiting for *The Cody Gunfighters* at 6:00 PM in front of the Irma Hotel. Apart from this building, the town has no charm. I was hoping to find the vibe of Deadwood, but I was wrong. As for the gunfighters, it was really kitschy and pretty mediocre. We stopped by Walmart to save time the next morning and bought a Bear Spray ($29.90, which was $10 cheaper than in the park). Everyone laughed at the time, but opinions on its usefulness changed pretty quickly!

Verdict: We were disappointed with Cody—this town really didn’t win us over. It’s true we didn’t visit the Buffalo Bill Historical Center (which generally gets great reviews), the Old Trail Town (historic houses), or attend the rodeo, the three main activities in Cody. So why did we stop in Cody, you ask? Because I was expecting something different from this town—a vibe, a soul—that I just didn’t find. But also to have a relaxed day, which is nice during a packed trip, and to recharge before tackling the much-anticipated Yellowstone.

Hi Laurence,

Thanks for this travel journal. Your visit to Badlands NP brought back great memories for me, and so did the giant boots in Cheyenne. I loved the prairie dogs just as much as you did. We were also there during the motorcycle meet-ups. There’s really a special vibe around Cody and the Black Hills during the Sturgis rally. We ended up there by pure chance, and I loved seeing all those different motorcycles in Hill City.



I wasn’t familiar with Bighorn Canyon—it’ll be for another trip. Of course, when you’re in the area, Yellowstone is a must... I’m really looking forward to seeing it through your photos.

But what I’m even more excited to read about is your account of:

Day 19: Dinosaur NM + Fantasy Canyon Day 20: Dinosaur NM + Colorado NM

I’m actually planning to visit Dinosaur NM and Fantasy Canyon in February. We’ve already been to Colorado NM.

See you soon.

In Sturgis! We were there for Bike Week in 2015—okay, we’re bikers, sure, but it’s a stop that can be recommended to everyone. Those bikers are *cool*! Of course, Harleys *make noise* (to our ears, beautiful music 😛 😉 😏).

Hey Chris,

We were there for Bike Week in 2015—okay, we’re bikers, sure, but it’s a stop I’d recommend to anyone. Those bikers are "cool"!

We were there in August 2014. It’s true that with their outfits, the bikers can be pretty intimidating, but when you talk to them, they’re really chill. I loved seeing all the amazing bikes I discovered.



See you soon

Good evening Diamina,

Thanks for following along. Badlands NP was a real highlight for me. At the pace I'm going, Dinosaur NM won't be happening anytime soon! But I'm tackling Yellowstone now.

Day 10: On the road to Yellowstone! A beautiful drive takes us to the east entrance. As we cross Sylvan Pass, a deer crosses the road right in front of us. We head to the Fishing Bridge Visitor Center. This area is under construction, but it doesn’t cause any delays. We pick up some brochures, info on our first planned hike (Storm Point Trail), and the Junior Ranger program—the only park where they charged us for it ($3). We return to Indian Pond, the starting point for this hike. The parking lot is far from full, which is great. Off we go for our first taste of Yellowstone. After a few hundred meters, we run into an American returning from his hike. He asks if we have bells to make noise (uh, yeah, but in the car) and bear spray. I *did* bring it, but we hadn’t removed the safety clip. He pulls out his pocketknife, removes it for us, and shows us how to use it. He explains there’s a huge carcass by the trail and bears are hanging around nearby. Weird—the ranger didn’t mention it or warn us about anything. Nervous much, sir? We see the carcass further ahead; not much left except the skeleton. The trail runs along the lake, offering beautiful views. We pass a few hikers, many turning back at Storm Point, a really pretty viewpoint. We decide to continue the loop, and the trail quickly heads into the woods. We talk loudly as a precaution. Suddenly, the sound of snapping branches and a growl stops us in our tracks. We freeze and instinctively huddle together, bear spray pointed toward the noise. Silence. We scan the underbrush but see nothing. After a few minutes, more snapping branches—then nothing again. We stay still for a while longer, then, still tightly grouped, we resume walking, making as much noise as possible (not hard with six of us!) and picking up the pace, bear spray at the ready. We’re relieved to see the end of the forest and emerge into the meadow. We’ll never know what it was, and that’s fine—but we all *definitely* heard that growl. In the end, everyone was glad I’d bought the spray, even though it had made them laugh the day before.

After this unforgettable first hike, we head to Mud Volcano, where a lone bison has taken up residence, seemingly unbothered by the smells. A boardwalk lets us explore this small site. A nice introduction to the park’s phenomena. We have a late picnic at LeHardy’s Rapid, where we see very few people, before heading to West Thumb Geyser Basin, a much busier area. The parking lot is full, but we find a spot quickly. We start the 1 km loop around the site, always on boardwalks. The colors are stunning. There are quite a few Chinese tourists, but they’re no louder or ruder than other groups. We make room for them to take photos, and they do the same for us. Whenever they ask us to take their picture, they *insist* on taking one of us in return. We’ve never taken so many photos of the six of us on a trip! I’d planned to continue with the Yellowstone Lake Overlook Trail, but it’s getting late to start that hike. So we head toward Old Faithful, where we’ve booked cabins for two nights at Old Faithful Lodge. We stop along the way at Scaup Lake, by the roadside and covered in water lilies, and at Kepler Cascades, which are quite pretty. When we arrive at the Old Faithful site, its eruption is imminent, so we go admire it, along with a big crowd. Then we check into our two cabins—three people each, no bathroom but with a sink. They’re adjoining and form a single block. Great accommodation, quiet, very clean, and not too expensive (102 € per cabin). The restrooms are nearby, and there are picnic tables available (cooking in the cabins is not allowed). We head back out at the end of the day to see another Old Faithful eruption from Observation Point Trail. Not many people around, and it’s a beautiful show from this viewpoint. We continue to Solitary Geyser, stunning with the sunset. A peaceful hike, far from the crowds, about 4 km long.

Hi Laurence,

No worries about Dinosaur Monument—I’ll skip that park after all since it’s not exactly ideal in winter. I’ll focus on Arizona and Utah instead, which are harder to visit in the summer. I’m calmly following your travel journal. No stress! 😏

Day 11: Quick stop at the Visitor Center to note the estimated geyser eruption times, and we head to the boardwalks in the Upper Geyser Basin for a walk of about ten kilometers. It’s very peaceful, the weather is gorgeous, and the colors are stunning—almost surreal. We watch Old Faithful erupt from the boardwalks. It gives us a different perspective.

After waiting for about thirty minutes, Grand Geyser, along with Turban and Vent Geysers, erupts. It’s magnificent—totally worth the wait. We continue our walk, skipping Riverside Geyser since we hope to see its eruption on the way back. We reach Morning Glory Pool—what incredible colors!

We decide to walk all the way to Biscuit Basin. We don’t encounter anyone on this stretch, even though the path is lovely with beautiful blue-colored pools. We have a picnic alone in front of Artemisia Geyser.

Tour of Biscuit Basin, where there are more people—the parking lot is full, and cars are waiting for spots. Sapphire Pool is gorgeous—more stunning colors.



Back in the Upper Geyser Basin, after waiting a few minutes, we witness Riverside Geyser erupt. A beautiful geyser by the water in a lovely setting.

Grotto Geyser erupts as we pass by. Nice!

We wanted to go all the way to Black Sand Basin (about 3 km round trip), but once again, we went way over the time we’d planned for this loop. So we’ll go later by car.

We stop at the Old Faithful Inn, whose all-wood interior is well worth a visit.

After a quick stop at our cabin, we head back out by car to do the Firehole Drive, a one-way loop (south/north) of 3 km. Unfortunately, we don’t get to see Great Fountain Geyser erupt. We only see White Dome Geyser, which erupts very often but isn’t very impressive. Still, it’s a beautiful and not-too-crowded loop.

The end of the loop leads to Fountain Paint Pots, where we stop. A small 800-meter loop—steam, bubbling, and always those gorgeous, translucent colors.

More to come in the next post—maximum number of photos reached!

Suite J11: Our next stop is at Midway Geyser Basin. There are a lot of cars parked along the road. Despite the late hour (6:30/7:00 PM), the parking lot is full, and we wait a little while to find a spot. The star of the place is Grand Prismatic, but there’s quite a bit of steam that keeps us from fully appreciating the colors.

Our last stop of the day is at Black Sand Basin. After a full day, we decide to grab dinner at Old Faithful Basin Store. The burgers and fries are average quality but not too expensive for the area.

J12: Early start for the Fairy Falls parking lot. Not many people around—one of the perks of being there early. An easy 8 km round-trip hike to the falls. We have the place to ourselves; a few people arrive shortly after. This hike is lovely, far from the crowds, leading to a 60-meter waterfall. Lots of bold chipmunks around.

Thunder rumbles, and the sky darkens quickly, so we decide not to go all the way to Imperial Geyser, which we can see from a distance. We turn back and head up to the platform to admire Grand Prismatic, even though we planned to return—you never know. With this weather, the colors are really dull.

Rain, then hail, hits us before we can make it back to the car. Everyone’s running along the trail, and we arrive soaked. After waiting a while for the storm to calm, we hit the road again. The rain eases up, and we make a quick stop at Gibbon Falls. Meh.

We try Artist Pain Pots—the parking lot is full despite the weather, but we don’t wait long to park. After picnicking in the car and catching a break in the clouds, we do the 1.8 km loop. Another easy and pleasant hike, even with a slight incline. It’s still really beautiful, with several mud pots.



A funny-looking duck...

The rain picks up again as we head back to the car. Since we still have a few days in the park, we decide to head straight to our hotel in Gardiner.

The sun comes back out—the weather changes so fast! We stop at a pretty waterfall along the way (I can’t remember its name).

We drive through a big construction zone. It’s Sunday, so the road isn’t closed, but everyone’s driving slowly because of the road conditions after the rain.

The car after the construction zone...

There are some nice viewpoints before reaching Mammoth Hot Springs.

We stop at the visitor center to get info for tomorrow’s plans before arriving in Gardiner. We’re staying at the Super 8: nice room, indoor pool, simple breakfast, and a supermarket right across the street. It’s the cheapest hotel we found in the area, but it still cost 198 €! The kids are happy to have Wi-Fi again...

Day 12: back at Mammoth Hot Springs. At this early hour, we spot several elk along the road.

We start at the Lower Terraces Area in front of Liberty Cap.

I’m completely blown away—it’s so beautiful! The white limestone against the blue sky with the sun sparkling on the flowing water is simply stunning.

Hard to believe some people are disappointed by this place. All the conditions are perfect: glorious sunshine, flowing water, and hardly anyone around at this early hour.

That’s really the advantage of staying as close as possible to the tourist attractions. Once again, we end up spending way more time there than planned. I could easily spend hours just soaking in these landscapes—they’re that mesmerizing. But my kids pull me away if I linger too long!

Next up is today’s hike, the Beaver Ponds Loop Trail, a roughly 9 km loop starting near Liberty Cap. The beginning isn’t straightforward—several trail intersections with no signs.

The rest of the trail is well-marked. As always, having the paper map of this hike helps us stay on track. This relatively easy walk—even if it climbs quite a bit at first—takes us through some gorgeous scenery and past several lakes.

We don’t see many animals: 2 beavers (?) that scurry away when they hear us, some ducks, and a male elk (or deer). We only cross paths with one couple doing the loop in the opposite direction. A peaceful picnic by the lake, just the four of us. Pure bliss. I highly recommend this lovely hike if you have the time.

Back at Mammoth Hot Springs, we grab a good ice cream and head to Boiling River for a dip in the hot springs. Lots of cars parked along the road, but we find a spot right away in the second parking lot. And the crowd! So many people on the trail leading to the springs, but not as many in the water in the end. We find a spot and soak for a good while. It’s really nice, even if the water temperature swings from freezing to boiling at times. This time, it’s the kids who dawdle and don’t want to get out!

We get back in the car and drive the Upper Terrace loop. It’s not as stunning as the Lower Terrace, but still worth it. Too bad it’s by car—it loses some of its charm.

Needless to say, given the time, today’s planned stops along the road to Roosevelt Lodge are scrapped! No big deal—we’ve still got several days ahead.

A pronghorn strolls peacefully through a meadow.

A crowd makes us stop. We “park” the car along the road. A bear and her two cubs are on the hillside. The cubs nap, then try climbing a tree—learning is tough! Mom stays hidden in the bushes.

We settle into our cabin at Roosevelt Lodge for 3 nights: a 6-person cabin with no bathroom, clean, comfy beds, and a very reasonable price (145 € per night).

An absolutely perfect day in every way, ending with a bear and her cubs. What more could you ask for!

Hi Laurence, I started your travel journal today, so I’ll be following along! Kudos for packing the car—we also had an Escalade, but with four people it’s still easier to fit the bags! ;) You didn’t seem to have much luck with the weather in several spots, but luckily it didn’t last and didn’t stop you from enjoying the places! Can’t wait for the next part!

Hello Laurence! Yellowstone really brings back our amazing memories from this summer😎.

I’m still blown away—it’s so beautiful! The white limestone against the blue sky with the sun sparkling on the flowing water, it’s simply stunning. Hard to believe some people are disappointed by this place. But you’ve got to admit, everything came together perfectly: glorious sunshine, water everywhere, and hardly anyone around at that early hour..

Yes, exactly!

Staying right near the main attractions is such a huge advantage. Once again, we’re making the most of our visit time. I could honestly spend hours just soaking in these landscapes—they’re so breathtaking. But my kids pull me out of my trance if I linger too long!

Same here—I could stay for hours in front of a view that moves me... and just like yours, my son eventually snaps me back to reality😉

After finishing my travel journal, I started putting together the photo album... can’t wait to get it!😉 More to come soon

Hi Peggy,

Thanks for following along on our trip! It’s definitely a joy fitting everything for four into the Escalade! Weather’s one of those travel factors that’s out of our hands—gotta roll with it and adapt. No way we’re letting it get us down! But yeah, a bright blue sky *does* make everything better, and the landscapes just pop. More to come soon!

Have a great evening,

Hi Fanny,

Given the quality of the photos in your travel journal, I can see why you’re eager to get your albums. For my part, I just print the photos and make albums the "old-school" way. With the kids, we love looking through them—it usually brings back great memories.

Day 14: On the road to the canyon area. We start bright and early at the South Rim. The entire Uncle’s Tom section is closed. We head to Artist Point, which offers a beautiful view of Lower Falls. Not many people in the parking lot. Quick tip: park near the exit to avoid getting stuck when leaving because of cars waiting for a spot. We take the walk to Point Sublime. It’s true that this viewpoint isn’t the most stunning. An easy 3.8 km round-trip hike. As usual, we take our time…

We wanted to continue to the North Rim, but cars are lined up all the way from the road… We’ll come back tomorrow.

We stop at Brink of Upper Falls—the parking lot is full, but spots open up pretty quickly. A short walk to the falls. Nothing exceptional.

We head out calmly, stopping at viewpoints with lovely panoramas. At Dunraven Pass, one of my kids realizes they’ve got signal, so all the phones come out, and the stop drags on… For once, I get to enjoy the scenery in peace.

The Mount Washburn hike is closed for maintenance. We stop to see Tower Falls. A pretty 40-meter waterfall just 200 meters from the general store parking lot, but you can’t access the base anymore. There’s a path that seems to go down to the Yellowstone River, but no one’s motivated, so we don’t go down.

Just 2.5 km later, Calcite Springs Overlook is definitely worth a stop. The calcite springs are right by the river, and on the other side, you can see basalt columns.

We then drive through Lamar Valley. Hundreds of bison are in the meadows. We witness a fight between two of them—dust flying everywhere—it’s impressive. A big bison, who seemed to be sleeping, suddenly gets up and breaks them up. The two bison pretend to walk away, but one chases the other (and bison can run fast!), and they start fighting again even harder. Is he going to charge us? No, he’s just scratching the ground before rolling in it.

We do the Trout Lake loop—a nice 2 km walk around a pretty lake. No trout in sight, but there are ducks and some kind of geese with their chicks, who get pretty aggressive when you pass by. A nice, peaceful hike, far from everything. Very relaxing.

We drive to Cooke City, a tiny village at the northeast entrance, then head back through Lamar Valley. We spot a herd of pronghorns right by the road. They’re not scared of cars or bison.

And dozens more bison at sunset.

End of a peaceful day, far from the crowds.

Hi Laurence, How on earth did I miss your travel journal? I don’t get it… But here I am now. I just read everything in one go. I love reliving all these places. I’m discovering Cheyenne in the sunshine, and it’s so different from what we experienced. Wow! The bison in the Badlands! They were much closer to you than they were to us. These landscapes are among my favorites from this trip too. It’s a shame the park is so out of the way compared to the others. I’m not sure I’d go back. I see you had the same impression as we did about Fort Hays. I wouldn’t recommend going out of your way to see it. You two were *so* lucky with the bison. It’s like you attract them! For us, in Custer, they were pretty far away. Goes to show—just a few days apart, and you can see totally different things. Sylvan Lake and the Needles in the sun… it makes me *really* want to go back. You were also super lucky with the wildlife (except for the wild horses—seems like they were playing hard to get this year). Lovely bighorn sheep in different spots, a gorgeous mountain goat, tons of antelope, deer, pelicans on the lake… And then Yellowstone (funny, we’re at about the same point in our stories). It’s always so beautiful to see—and to see again. I never get tired of it. You guys do some amazing hikes. Those cubs are adorable. What luck, once again. Hey, were the animals *really* that close to you (again, the bison at Yellowstone seem close), or do you have a good zoom lens? Thanks for sharing and for the gorgeous photos. Looking forward to the rest! Françoise.

Hi Françoise,

So glad my story brought back good memories for you! My camera is nothing special, but the bison were *right* there—often between the cars. We could’ve touched them several times just by rolling down the window. We really wanted to, but common sense won out, of course!

We were definitely spoiled—not by the sometimes-fickle weather, but by the wildlife. And the best part? It’s not over yet!

Have a great day,

Day 15: This time, we tackle the north side of the canyon (parking half-empty—nice!) with our first viewpoint from Overlook Point. We head down to Red Rock Point (about 1 km, 150 m elevation change). Gorgeous—a beautiful rainbow forms at the base of the waterfall. The climb back up is pretty steep, but it’s definitely worth seeing.

We meet up with Brink of the Lower Falls (just over 2 km for 180 meters of elevation change) via the North Rim Trail, which offers some lovely viewpoints. We spot Upper Falls in the distance—way more impressive from here than from Upper Falls View. From Brink of the Lower Falls, the return trip is also pretty steep. The view is completely different since you end up on a platform overlooking Lower Falls. Worth seeing, but I much preferred the view from Red Rock Point. We probably should’ve done these hikes in the opposite direction to enjoy them more. We take the North Rim Trail back to Grand View. The rest of the trail is closed for construction.

After a break at the Visitor Center, we head toward Yellowstone Lake via Hayden Valley. More stunning landscapes. We watch two bison crossing the Yellowstone River. They swim well despite their size.

Farther on, pelicans are peacefully wading. We turn around at Sulfur Caldron, where a bison doesn’t seem bothered by the smells. We reach Petrified Tree via Dunraven Pass, which we never get tired of.

Short hike to Troot Lake (3 km round trip, easy). It’s charming, and we don’t run into anyone. At the end of the day, we get back in the car to drive Blacktail Plateau Drive—a one-way (west/east) unpaved road open to all vehicles. This area is known for bears. On the main road, a crowd makes us stop, but the bear just left for the woods... We’re alone on this trail, scanning everywhere, but no bears in sight! Pretty disappointed, we head back to the cabin.

For dinner tonight, we eat at the Roosevelt Lodge Dining Room. The food is good, and the prices are very reasonable.

Day 16: We got up before sunrise to try and spot wolves in Lamar Valley. We parked in a lot where several people were scanning the surrounding plains with huge telephoto lenses. No wolves in sight, but a grizzly climbing a hill. It was quite far away. Just as I went to take photos, I realized my camera hadn’t charged overnight—dead battery. Someone kindly offered to let us look through their telephoto lens. Super nice. Another person told us the wolves were somewhere else today. We followed them by car, but still nothing on the horizon. We wouldn’t see any wolves. We figured we’re just not lucky with wildlife this trip.

Back at the cabin, check-out, and off to our next stop, Grand Teton. Already the last day in Yellowstone! A deer was grazing just a few meters from the cabins. Barely had we left when a kid spotted a bear in the underbrush. We were alone, no other cars, so we stopped in the middle of the road—even though it’s not the best idea—to watch it. The cars that arrived after us did the same. We left pretty quickly because it was blocking traffic. The mood in the car lifted!

We arrived at Norris Geyser Basin fairly early. Plenty of free parking spots. We started with Porcelain Basin (a 1.5 km loop on boardwalks, easy). I’ll say it again—it’s stunning! It’s "milky," quite misty in the early morning, and you feel like you’re on another planet.

Part of the loop was closed. We headed to Back Basin but didn’t see Echinus Geyser erupt. The atmosphere was beautiful with steam rising above the green of the river or the blue of the pools. The colors seemed unreal here too. I lagged behind—no big deal, it’s a loop, everyone goes at their own pace, and we’d meet back at the car. Guess who arrived last?

Splitting up the geyser areas by spending several days in the west and north of the park—with its very different landscapes—let us appreciate Norris at its true value. It’s a gorgeous basin, but according to comments, it often disappoints if you visit right after Old Faithful. And I have to admit, the kids were pretty tired of geysers after two days. Sounds crazy, but that’s how they felt!

The day was far from over, and after managing to escape the parking lot (we hadn’t parked near the exit, which cost us 15 minutes of waiting to get out), we took Firehole Canyon Road, a one-way north-south route. Not many people, so it was relaxing. A small waterfall was visible from the road.

Next, we headed to the Fairy Falls parking lot to hike up to the Grand Prismatic overlook, this time under bright sunshine. No comparison! I’ll post a photo with and without sun—no need for words.

The pools along the trail were also beautiful.

We couldn’t resist one last stop at Old Faithful to admire the geyser again. The kids picked up their Junior Ranger badges, and then we hit the road toward Grand Teton.

Our last stop of the day was Lewis Falls. It’s not an exceptional waterfall, but it’s right by the road. On the other side, the view of the plain with the Lewis River was pretty nice.

At the border of the two parks, a grizzly was strolling calmly just a few meters from the road. Amazing. It even looked at us for the photo. We were really spoiled. Turns out, we saw more wildlife without even looking for it than by going to the "famous" spots!

We arrived at Colter Bay Village. We’d planned to go kayaking, but we would’ve needed to arrive before 4:00 PM since it closes at 6:00 PM and rentals are for a minimum of 2 hours. Maybe tomorrow. After stopping by the Visitor Center, I tried to rally the troops for Lakeshore Trail—a 4 km easy hike—but no luck. We just relaxed by Jackson Lake for a bit instead. We checked into our "tent cabin" for the night. Cheap for the location (90 €), but honestly, not great.

Wow, you guys saw bears! How lucky! I love your photos of Grand Prismatic—you can really see the difference. We often say it, but the weather really does change everything. Looking forward to the rest of your updates.

Hi Françoise,

Yes, we were lucky with the bears... and it's not over yet.

We spent 7 days in Yellowstone and don’t regret it at all. It allowed us to visit the most popular spots outside of peak hours and explore at our own pace, without having to rush from one site to another. It also helped us deal with the weather, which was kind to us—just one mixed day out of six with glorious sunshine. Even so, we didn’t manage to do everything we’d planned!

As for accommodation, it’s not as expensive as you’d think to stay inside the park by booking a cabin without private facilities (the shared bathrooms were always nearby and clean). The exception is Canyon Village, where prices are much higher. And what a joy it was to have some sites almost to ourselves.

More to come soon, Have a great Sunday,

Day 17: Early start at Signal Mountain. A ranger, stationed at the bottom, warns us about bears and reminds us of safety rules. Halfway up, a car is stopped in the opposite direction to watch a bear. There’s no one behind us, so we make a quick stop. The ranger’s car pulls up behind us, and we drive off. Missed photos, no big deal—the day’s off to a great start!

The two viewpoints offer a lovely view of the park. On the way down, we don’t run into the bear again (too bad), but we do see the ranger talking into his walkie-talkie while gesturing—two cars are parked on the side of the road with no one inside.

Short on time, we had to choose between Jenny Lake and Taggart Lake. We went with the latter, which seemed wilder, doing the loop to Bradley Lake (about 9 km, challenging). Not long after setting off, we hear a waterfall in the distance. Then a weasel plays in the foliage. We found this hike, rated as moderate, pretty tiring—there’s quite a bit of climbing. It was the toughest hike we did. But it’s worth it—these two lakes are stunning. Plus, we didn’t run into many people, even though the parking lot was full. Taggart Lake: Bradley Lake:

Back at Colter Bay for some kayaking. Nice, relaxing time. The kids had more fun than on the hikes!

Time’s flying, and our lodging for the night is still far away. We head south on Highway 191, stopping—because I insisted—at Mormon Row. It’s not the best time of day; the sun’s in our eyes. We don’t have time to visit Menors Ferry Historic District.

One of the regrets of this trip: we should’ve planned two nights here to enjoy it more. Even if it’s not the most exotic park, it’s still a beautiful one that, for us, deserved a deeper visit.

Our lodging is in Afton—another two hours of driving! Quick drive through Jackson Hole. Why did we book so far away? Partly because we didn’t think we’d spend so much time in the park, hotels in Jackson Hole are crazy expensive, and we had a long drive the next day. Nice road, though—this area has lots of ranches.

We arrive very late at Colter’s Lodge, which doesn’t look like much from the outside but is gorgeous inside. We have our best meal of the trip at the hotel’s restaurant, which luckily stays open late. We stand out in our grubby T-shirts and shorts after a day in Grand Teton, surrounded by locals in cowboy gear. No one bats an eye—everyone’s friendly, asking where we’re from. Many have never traveled.

Huge room with super comfy beds, 114 € without breakfast. No elevator to the rooms, but the receptionist offered to help.

Hi Laurence,

Funny, we just posted about our day at Grand Teton almost at the same time. This park is often seen as "similar to the ones we have back home." Maybe that’s true for those who live in the mountains, but not for us city dwellers. Like you, I should’ve planned one more night there to enjoy it even more. Happy holidays! See you soon, Françoise.

Hi Françoise,

We live right near the Alps, and yet we really enjoyed this park. It’s much less exotic than others, true, but it’s very beautiful with lots of hiking opportunities.

I’m loving your travel journal—your photos are gorgeous!

Happy holidays to everyone,

Hi everyone,

Happy New Year!

Day 18: A long drive planned today to Vernal (280 miles). We didn’t leave super early—the beds were just too comfy! The landscapes kept changing: mostly farmland and ranches at first, then some rocks in a pretty arid setting. We barely saw any cars and our last antelopes, plus some wading birds (herons?). We stopped in a village where a rodeo was getting ready, but it hadn’t started yet, and we couldn’t afford the delay. Too bad—we only had time to admire the horses.

We approached Flaming Gorge from the west side. We turned onto the Sheep Creek Loop and came across a herd of bighorn sheep. A really scenic road winding through red rocks. We stopped at the Red Canyon Visitor Center, which offered great views of the canyon. We decided to push on to the dam—what’s a few more miles at this point? Well, we could’ve skipped it.

We arrived late in the day at the Vernal KOA, where we’re staying in a cabin. No neighbors—we’re the only cabin occupied. Fun fact: it’s the first time our cabin has had a fridge.

A transitional day that won’t go down in the history books, even if Flaming Gorge had some nice viewpoints.

Day 19: Our day was supposed to be dedicated to the Utah side of Dinosaur NM. We arrive for the opening of the Visitor Center and then decide to walk to the Quarry Exhibit Hall via the Fossil Discovery Trail (2 km, easy). The sun is already beating down hard on this shadeless path. It’s certainly an interesting walk with a ranger, but I have to admit we didn’t see much despite the explanatory signs. Plus, the horizon is hazy (pollution, wildfires?). And the walk is better done in the other direction to be downhill!

Visit to the Quarry Exhibit Hall. It’s definitely worth seeing. The concentration of fossilized skeletons (over 1,500 bones on the wall) is really surprising. You can touch some of them, there are several explanatory panels, and we stayed for quite a while.



After returning to the VC by shuttle, we had planned to do the "Desert Voice Trail" walk. The crushing heat makes us give up, and we head straight down Cub Creek Road toward Josie Morris Cabin, with several stops along the way, including to see the petroglyphs near the road.

A peaceful picnic in the shade in front of the cabin. It’s really nice, and we’re alone. We decide to follow the trails leading to canyons and start with the Hog Canyon Trail (2.5 km round trip, easy). We come across a snake slithering away at full speed. It’s way too hot—we finish the walk red as tomatoes. It’s not even that long, but we feel like we’ve drunk a ton. Back to the car, luckily in the shade, and no one wants to do the second walk, even though it’s shorter.



We leave the park much earlier than planned. The temperature hits 42°C, and the kids want to go back to the campsite to swim. I know full well that if we go back to the campsite, we won’t have the energy to drive 2 hours round trip to see Fantasy Canyon.

So let’s go right away, even if it’s not the best time. We first follow the Green River along Red Wash Road—a pretty drive before joining the main road. We don’t see a single car for over 45 minutes! It’s really in the middle of nowhere. The GPS has us leave the road pretty quickly, and we’re on dirt tracks (very drivable) going up and down hills in a desert landscape full of oil fields. We obediently follow the GPS, hoping it’ll take us to the right place!

To our great surprise, we come across about twenty horses. But what are they doing here? In a place like this? They’re skittish and move away as soon as the car stops. Wild horses? Well, that’ll make up for our missed meet-up with the ones in Bighorn Canyon! We’ll see more on the way back when we reach the road.

We also come across a dead cow drying stiff in the sun. It’s macabre. This isn’t the time to break down!

We finally see a sign for Fantasy Canyon. It’s still pretty far, and we’ll see on the way back that we didn’t take the shortest route. A car is parked there—it belongs to two young French guys who are leaving. We visit the site in over 40°C heat. The shapes are quite surprising, but the site is small. It’s not the right time for colors, though—we knew that. Everything is beige/gray, and it’s just too hot. Not pleasant at all.

Another car arrives—more French people! We chat for a bit and then head back to Vernal.

This time, we follow the signs (not the GPS) and are surprised to reach the road so quickly. Summary of this visit: a lot of driving for a pretty small site, but it’s out of the ordinary. I think you really need to go at sunset to get the beautiful colors. We didn’t appreciate it as much as we should have—it’s too bad. We could’ve (or some of us could’ve) skipped it.

Hello Laurence, Oh, I’m so glad to hear your thoughts on Fantasy Canyon. It was on our itinerary too, but we skipped it since my husband really didn’t want to drive that much on dirt roads. It’s true that at that time of day, it’s not very pretty, but if we’d gone at sunset, we would’ve had to drive back on that rough road almost in the dark… You got some gorgeous colors at Flaming Gorge! Looking forward to the rest of your updates, Françoise.