She Sees Giants Everywhere! (Ducasse of Ath, Belgium, August 2018)
Sometimes fantasy and a change of scenery are right near home! I love exploring the four corners of the planet, but there can also be a whole world just a little farther than the end of your street—or even the tip of your nose! So I’ll share with you in pictures the beautiful kermesse of Ath, which we only discovered last August, even though we’re neighbors (we live in Lille).
I could have subtitled this travel journal: "Ferme eut’bouc tin nez va quer eud’dans"; it’s an expression in Picard language, literally “Close your mouth or your nose will fall in,” said to someone who’s amazed—and amazed I was!!!
Ooooooooh, giants!
Oh, how I love them! In the North, we have lots of these giants, like Reuze Papa and Reuze Maman in Cassel, or Gayant, Marie, and their children Binbin, Jacquot, and Fillon in Douai, and many more.
Huh? What? You don’t know what a Géant du Nord is?
Well, it’s a benevolent hero, a legendary figure, a protector, a symbol tied to a city that parades through it, walking and dancing during carnival or the local festival. The tradition is said to have originated in Portugal in the 13th century (at least that’s where we have the first records), then we see them in the Netherlands starting in the 15th century. In the North, the oldest are Gayant and Marie of Douai (16th century), but many new ones have appeared since the 1980s with the revival of carnivals. In practice, it’s a large character (or animal figure) several meters tall; the structure is made of wicker, the body is often papier-mâché, but the head can be wood, as in Ath (lime wood), and the clothes and accessories are made of fabric, leather, and wood. The flared robe (for both male and female giants) allows one or more carriers to slip underneath to move it using only their arms, shoulders, and legs—and even make it dance! There are over 1,500 giants in Belgium and 450 in Hauts-de-France, mostly in the Nord and Pas-de-Calais departments.
In Ath, there are giants—LOTS of them! I’ve never seen so many at once. And each one is carried by only one man at a time (except for Bayard, you’ll see why later), even though the structure weighs over 100 kilos—so the carriers take turns quickly! The Ducasse of Ath and its giants have been inscribed on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list since 2008, as part of the "Processional Giants and Dragons of Belgium and France."
What’s more, the Ducasse of Ath is remarkable for its age and local roots; a procession was first mentioned in 1399, and today the many musical groups are still local (Ath and surrounding towns). The event is extremely popular: a good part of the population is there, all generations mixed together. Everyone knows the groups, floats, and giants, and each has their favorite! Originally, religious groups paraded, illustrating episodes from the Bible or the Golden Legend. Gradually, the parade became secular and kept evolving by adding new giants, historical figures, or allegories linked to local history (Ath, Belgian Hainaut, Belgium).
Finally, the beautiful floats are all pulled by magnificent draft horses, and that’s extraordinary! The town council itself rides in fine carriages that close the parade.
To wrap up this long introduction, know that the Ducasse of Ath lasts several days, but the highlight is the highly codified procession that takes place on the 4th Sunday of August (actually, the procession passes twice, once in the morning and once in the afternoon).
So, let’s go!
On this Sunday, August 26th, we’re in Ath in the early afternoon to see the procession. What a popular enthusiasm! Everyone is wearing the city’s colors (purple, yellow, and white), often with a twisted fabric necklace. Everyone is happy, smiling, from the giggling toddler to the sprightly centenarian sipping beer with her rosy-cheeked cousin and the pretty freckled blonde niece. People call out to each other, laugh, hum, and congratulate each other all around.
People start positioning themselves at strategic spots along the route—wider areas where the giants stop to perform a dance to the tunes of the brass bands accompanying them. And there are brass bands—at least one per giant and float!
The wait passes quickly in this joyful atmosphere. Suddenly, the music grows louder, and here comes the first giant at last! It’s the "two-headed eagle," with a child (a real one) sitting safely on a little chair.
Present in the procession since the late 17th century, it originally had only one head (normal, right?) and accompanied the tailors’ guild. It gained a second head during the royal visit of 1854 (go figure why!). It’s 3.30 meters tall and weighs 115 kilos (without the child). All the men you see in white are carriers taking turns. Its dance consists of spinning the bird around—you’d think that little kid up there must be getting dizzy!
Next is the "Neapolitan fishermen’s boat." It’s a magnificent float representing a ship, with handsome sailors clinging to its rigging. This float first appeared in the parade in 1856.
It’s followed by a human giant on stilts: "Saint Christopher of Flobecq," holding a flowered staff and carrying Christ on his shoulders (this time, not a real child!). It appeared in the 19th century, then disappeared from the procession before being reintroduced in 1976.
Now here come the "Blues," dressed in French uniforms. This group is the heir of the former cannon-arquebusier company, and they punctuate their parade with gun salutes!
To be continued: the giant Samson!
I could have subtitled this travel journal: "Ferme eut’bouc tin nez va quer eud’dans"; it’s an expression in Picard language, literally “Close your mouth or your nose will fall in,” said to someone who’s amazed—and amazed I was!!!
Ooooooooh, giants!
Oh, how I love them! In the North, we have lots of these giants, like Reuze Papa and Reuze Maman in Cassel, or Gayant, Marie, and their children Binbin, Jacquot, and Fillon in Douai, and many more.Huh? What? You don’t know what a Géant du Nord is?
Well, it’s a benevolent hero, a legendary figure, a protector, a symbol tied to a city that parades through it, walking and dancing during carnival or the local festival. The tradition is said to have originated in Portugal in the 13th century (at least that’s where we have the first records), then we see them in the Netherlands starting in the 15th century. In the North, the oldest are Gayant and Marie of Douai (16th century), but many new ones have appeared since the 1980s with the revival of carnivals. In practice, it’s a large character (or animal figure) several meters tall; the structure is made of wicker, the body is often papier-mâché, but the head can be wood, as in Ath (lime wood), and the clothes and accessories are made of fabric, leather, and wood. The flared robe (for both male and female giants) allows one or more carriers to slip underneath to move it using only their arms, shoulders, and legs—and even make it dance! There are over 1,500 giants in Belgium and 450 in Hauts-de-France, mostly in the Nord and Pas-de-Calais departments.
In Ath, there are giants—LOTS of them! I’ve never seen so many at once. And each one is carried by only one man at a time (except for Bayard, you’ll see why later), even though the structure weighs over 100 kilos—so the carriers take turns quickly! The Ducasse of Ath and its giants have been inscribed on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list since 2008, as part of the "Processional Giants and Dragons of Belgium and France."
What’s more, the Ducasse of Ath is remarkable for its age and local roots; a procession was first mentioned in 1399, and today the many musical groups are still local (Ath and surrounding towns). The event is extremely popular: a good part of the population is there, all generations mixed together. Everyone knows the groups, floats, and giants, and each has their favorite! Originally, religious groups paraded, illustrating episodes from the Bible or the Golden Legend. Gradually, the parade became secular and kept evolving by adding new giants, historical figures, or allegories linked to local history (Ath, Belgian Hainaut, Belgium).Finally, the beautiful floats are all pulled by magnificent draft horses, and that’s extraordinary! The town council itself rides in fine carriages that close the parade.
To wrap up this long introduction, know that the Ducasse of Ath lasts several days, but the highlight is the highly codified procession that takes place on the 4th Sunday of August (actually, the procession passes twice, once in the morning and once in the afternoon).So, let’s go!
On this Sunday, August 26th, we’re in Ath in the early afternoon to see the procession. What a popular enthusiasm! Everyone is wearing the city’s colors (purple, yellow, and white), often with a twisted fabric necklace. Everyone is happy, smiling, from the giggling toddler to the sprightly centenarian sipping beer with her rosy-cheeked cousin and the pretty freckled blonde niece. People call out to each other, laugh, hum, and congratulate each other all around.
People start positioning themselves at strategic spots along the route—wider areas where the giants stop to perform a dance to the tunes of the brass bands accompanying them. And there are brass bands—at least one per giant and float!
The wait passes quickly in this joyful atmosphere. Suddenly, the music grows louder, and here comes the first giant at last! It’s the "two-headed eagle," with a child (a real one) sitting safely on a little chair.
Present in the procession since the late 17th century, it originally had only one head (normal, right?) and accompanied the tailors’ guild. It gained a second head during the royal visit of 1854 (go figure why!). It’s 3.30 meters tall and weighs 115 kilos (without the child). All the men you see in white are carriers taking turns. Its dance consists of spinning the bird around—you’d think that little kid up there must be getting dizzy!
Next is the "Neapolitan fishermen’s boat." It’s a magnificent float representing a ship, with handsome sailors clinging to its rigging. This float first appeared in the parade in 1856.
It’s followed by a human giant on stilts: "Saint Christopher of Flobecq," holding a flowered staff and carrying Christ on his shoulders (this time, not a real child!). It appeared in the 19th century, then disappeared from the procession before being reintroduced in 1976.
Now here come the "Blues," dressed in French uniforms. This group is the heir of the former cannon-arquebusier company, and they punctuate their parade with gun salutes!
To be continued: the giant Samson!
Mentioned in the procession since 1679. This is the biblical Samson, carrying the Temple’s pillar, but since the early 19th century, he’s been dressed in the French uniform of the "Bleus," who just preceded him.
Samson stands 4.3 meters tall and weighs 121 kilos!
Next up is the "Cannon of Mont Sarah," a recent addition introduced in 1975.
It commemorates the 1830 revolution: the lacemaker Marie-Anne Leroy rallies her compatriots, and they all sing an aria from the opera *La Muette de Portici* (a French opera by Auber). In fact, it was after a performance of this opera in Brussels that riots broke out, leading to the 1830 revolution.
And now, the Horticulture Float, created in 1850, depicting the goddess Flora above a bed of flowers and little nymphs.
This is Ambiorix, documented since the late 18th century... and he’s an example of a "mutant giant": originally, he was "Tirant the Archer"... who in 1850 transformed into Ambiorix (he kept his bow and arrows but changed his costume and draped himself in an animal skin over his shoulders).
Ambiorix was the leader of the Eburones, a Gallic tribe, and he dealt a crushing defeat to the Romans in 54 BC (a cousin of Asterix, really). He became one of Belgium’s national heroes in the 19th century, driven by the same movement that elevated Vercingetorix in France—hence Tirant’s transformation. The latter was even revived recently (in 1991) and now kicks off the festivities each year by sponsoring the archery contest held on Friday, though he isn’t part of the procession.
Ambiorix weighs 130 kg and stands 3.75 meters tall! He’s accompanied by a fine company of armed men, halberdiers, while the Irchonwelz brass band makes him dance.
Here’s the "Provincial States float", followed by the "Navigation float":
And now a beauty approaches, with long braided black hair and a stunning metallic bra that even the Valkyries wouldn’t turn down…
This is "Mademoiselle Victoire," created in 1793 to celebrate Austrian victories over the French. The giantess symbolizes the city of Ath, whose colors she wears. She stands 4.07 meters tall and weighs 130 kg. When she dances, spinning around, her long hair flows through the air!
Here’s the very cheerful Lorette brass band, accompanying Mademoiselle Victoire. What a lively bunch!
Now, it’s the "Albert and Isabella Float" making its way forward. It was introduced to the procession in 1906 to remind the people of Ath of the rule of Archdukes Albert and Isabella in the early 17th century. It’s escorted by a stunning company of armed men!
But suddenly, way down the street, a huge silhouette appears... The crowd shivers and holds its breath, kids wiggle with excitement... a murmur rises...
It’s Bayard the horse! Picture this: a giant horse, and on its back, over 4 meters off the ground, four child-knights! It’s accompanied by majorettes and the music of Hussignies.
Bayard the horse has been part of the parade since 1462—imagine that, 30 years before Christopher Columbus set foot on the American continent! It carries the four sons of Aymon, based on a popular 13th-century epic song. It disappeared from the procession in the 16th century before being reintroduced in 1948.
It measures 6.30 meters, weighs 632 kilos without the kids, and has 16 carriers! During its dance, it rears up (reasonably), and you can just imagine the effort it takes for the front carriers...
This giant is truly INCREDIBLE!
Now let’s make way for the star couple of the Ducasse—I’m talking about Goliath and his “lady” (she doesn’t have a first name). Every year, these two remarry during the festivities!
Goliath’s presence has been recorded since 1481, and his wife’s since 1715. Goliath stands 3.95 meters tall and weighs 129 kg, while Madame weighs 117 kg and stands 3.90 meters tall. They’re accompanied by the Saint Martin d’Ath brass band. Five characters act as police around the couple: the “devil Magnon” with his pig bladder, which he uses to hit people—and then he kisses a lot, especially the kids (those who aren’t afraid of him), leaving their cheeks covered in soot. There are also the two “skirt horses,” called “chevaux Diricq” here, and the two “leaf men.”
A little side note: On Friday evening, like every year, Goliath (Gouyasse in Picard) buried his bachelor life with the ceremony called the “burning of the marronnes.” In Picard, a language spoken from Picardy to Belgian Hainaut, including the Nord and Pas-de-Calais where it’s called Ch’ti, “marronnes” means “pants.” Here, they burn Goliath’s trousers, stuffed with straw and firecrackers! On Saturday afternoon, the wedding takes place: the engaged couple dances together for the first time to the tune of the grand gouyasse, whose lyrics are sung by the crowd, then a ceremony is held in Saint Julien Church. At 5 PM in front of the town hall, a highly ritualized “combat game” takes place, staged since the 15th century: it’s the battle between David and Goliath. A child from the town plays David. Goliath and he first face off with words, then David must try to throw a ball into the slit at the bottom of Goliath’s robe (the slit through which the carriers slip under the basket).
It’s the Saint Martin d’Ath brass band that accompanies Goliath and his Lady.
And that’s it—the parade ends with members of the municipal council in beautiful carriages (mayor, aldermen, and councilors).
We ran into these giants in Cambodia, while we were traveling from Battambang to Phnom Penh.
We obviously stopped our vehicle to go meet these curious creatures... they’re also made of a wicker frame that a carrier climbs into. The head is papier-mâché, and the carrier slips their arms into the giant’s arms...
The pair of giants is accompanied by a monkey holding a collection bowl, and they’re out collecting donations for the nearby pagoda. Our guide told us this is a common practice!
