Happy Valley or Ait Bougmez

I just got back from a trip to Morocco and I want to share my experience of the few days I spent in the Happy Valley (also called the Ait Bouguemez Valley—it’s the same place!)

I’d contacted my guide Youssef, whose details I found here on VoyageForum. Since I was coming from the south, I first needed to find the shared transport that would take me across the Atlas Mountains, from the Valley of Roses (near Boulmane Dadès) to the Happy Valley. I left from Kelaat M'Gouna, where I’d stayed the night before at the Hôtel du Grand Atlas, right next to the bus stop. Youssef kept me updated by phone, and after a bit of searching, I found Brahim’s little Mercedes bus, which leaves between 10 AM and 1 PM... depending on how many passengers there are and the season.

The journey was impressive. The road is still under construction, so the bus sometimes drives through the bottom of the gorges, even wading through water before climbing back up and tackling a winding dirt track that rises twice to 3,000 meters at the passes: Tizi n-Ait-Hamed and Tizi n-Ait-Imi. I arrived in Tabant as night was falling, and Youssef was waiting to take me to Gîte Timite, a traditional Amazigh house. It’s built from earth with flat rooftops. For two days, I was welcomed there, sharing meals with the family. The hospitality was truly warm.

We went on two beautiful hikes, sticking to the valley floor. The peaks were snow-covered, so it wasn’t the right season to climb Mount Mgoun, which rises to 4,000 meters.

On the first day, we hiked up the valley to see the dinosaur footprints (a protected site). The valley is lush and known for its apples and walnuts. We were there during apple-picking season—there were apples everywhere! We had lunch with a very friendly family in the village of Rbat, then after a steep climb, we descended into another part of the valley before heading back to Timite.

The second day, we went the other way, toward the west end of the valley. It was just as beautiful. We climbed a few hills overlooking the valley floor, discovering grain storage buildings, and had lunch with a family whose father makes charcoal.

In the evening, I was treated to couscous, which we shared with the whole family—men, women, and children (who are a bit like royalty) sitting on benches. We laughed a lot as I tried to say a few words in Tamazight, or when we made rhythmic music, clapping our hands and tapping on the table...

I really spent two days out of time, feeling very welcome, and slept well. The comfort isn’t amazing—I had a toilet but no shower. But that’s part of sharing the life of the people in the Happy Valley. Thanks to Youssef, Mina, and the kids! "Gite Timit Youssef" or

Hi Christian,

At last, a great review and news about this valley. It's a place that's still protected—long may it last!

Hi Hannah! Yes, it's true, it's a bit remote because, whether from Marrakech or like me from Kelaat M'Gouna, it takes hours of driving. The roads are small and winding, and between November and April you’ve got to watch out for snow. But there are plenty of accommodation options, even last-minute ones. Well... I traveled in November... It can get chilly or even snow. The bottom of the valley is at 1,800 m (according to the altimeter). Cheers

Hi there,

I know the area a little—I’ve passed through a few times in April and May. Even during that period, there was plenty of space in the guesthouses, but it was still really cold in the evenings. I discovered it a long time ago when the road was paved (via Azilal). It’s a different Morocco, the Morocco I love. Now, to get there, I leave from Imin'ifri and take the small road that leads to Agoudal.

Agoudal

Huh?

Is there another one around there?

Or Aglouti? 😅

Nope, nope, nope, neither one nor the other—just Agouti... Don’t get old! 🏴‍☠️

Oops, never reread myself but that's the one...😛

Anyway, since the tarmac was finished two years ago, it's quicker than going via Azizal and... that stretch of Ait M'hamed which was really rough.

This valley doesn't get much mention on the forum... Even though it's no farther than going to see the Ouzoud waterfalls and their new concrete surroundings.

Just so you know, those without a 4x4 who want to get to Kelaa from Tabant are better off this way... However, it's much harder to do the reverse trip...

The Tizi Ait Imi pass is pretty easy and has no traps for driving up... And going back up Ait Ahmed isn't too complicated either... though between the two, it's a different story... the wadis to cross are there...😏

In the other direction, that last part is hardcore by car...

This valley doesn't get much mention on the forum... Even though it's no farther than going to see the Ouzoud waterfalls and their new concrete surroundings.

You want the Ait Bougmez to get concreted over too? Better to keep it quiet ;)😉😉

Hi Christian, I just stumbled upon your message. I thought "your" Youssef might be the same as mine, the one I’ve been returning to these valleys with every year for 13 years... Yes, the Aït Bougmez Valley is definitely a little paradise.

Hi Christian, I stumbled upon your message by chance. I thought "your" Youssef might be the same as mine, who I’ve been returning to these valleys with every year for 13 years... Yes, the Aït Bougmez valley is definitely a little paradise.

Have you been there in winter? The destination tempts me, but I get the feeling the timing might not be ideal for us.

In winter, this isn’t a very hospitable region. It’s too cold. I wouldn’t recommend it.

In winter, this isn’t a very welcoming region. It’s too cold. I wouldn’t recommend it.

Thanks, I’ll look for other little hidden gems. There doesn’t seem to be a shortage of them.

We were thinking of heading to the Aït Bougmez Valley in April, but I’ve read that it won’t be very warm there?